Buddy the Beaver
Buddy the Beaver is always busy! Whether building, burrowing, or barking, his days are certainly never boring. Make your own beaver buddy with this easy, amigurumi crochet beaver pattern!
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Softies Crochet Along
I designed this crochet cocoa coaster set for the 2024 Softies CAL, hosted by CAL Central Crochet. This is our 7th annual Softies CAL, and is definitely our cutest CAL of the year!
See the full schedule in the main CAL post. While you’re there, be sure to enter the giveaway for a chance at some fabulous prizes! Then crochet along and join in the fun on the CAL Central Facebook group.
King Cole Comfort Aran Yarn
When I closed my yarn store, I had some of this lovely, King Cole Comfort Aran yarn left over. It’s a super soft, acrylic yarn and nylon blend that creates a wonderfully soft, smooth, and slightly glossy fabric. It’s available in lovely pastel colors that are perfect for baby items, as well as a few more vibrant options.
I used #3329 Truffle for the main color and #1970 Surf for the accent color. These colors are not currently available, but #3591 Slate and #3590 Cornflower would make great substitutions. King Cole Big Value Aran has some great color options as well.
2 Strands Together
This amigurumi crochet beaver pattern uses 2 strands of yarn held together for most of the pattern. You can split your skein into 2 separate balls, or you can work with both ends (inside and outside) of the same skein held together!
Busy Beavers
I live near the Fox River, with miles of winding, riverfront trails. There is a magnificent beaver lodge in the section where I tend to walk. (Don’t worry, Millie was quite far away from the actual lodge in this picture and didn’t disturb anything)
For the longest time, I thought this was a beaver dam, but I learned there is a difference between dams and lodges. Beavers build dams only when necessary to slow the flow of the water. In quiet waterways like this one, they don’t need a dam.
The lodge is their home, and where they spend most of the winter months. It’s rare to catch a glimpse of the beavers themselves, but they leave signs of their work on the trees along the path.
Fun Beaver Fact
Did you know American Beavers are known for their orange, iron-enriched teeth? I learned this while designing this pattern. The National Park Service page about Acadia’s North American Beavers has lots of great info on beaver anatomy!
In a quick Google image search for “American beaver teeth”, the colors range from a golden yellow/brown to a deep burnt orange.
Materials
- Yarn:
- King Cole Comfort Aran – Worsted weight acrylic/nylon yarn (220 yds / 100 g per skein)
- 210 yds Main Color
- 100 yds Accent Color
- Small amounts of scrap yarn (less than 5 yds each)
- Yellow or orange for teeth
- Black or dark brown for facial embroidery
- King Cole Comfort Aran – Worsted weight acrylic/nylon yarn (220 yds / 100 g per skein)
- Hook: Size I / 5.5 mm hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
- Fairfield Poly-Fil or other stuffing material
Project Level
Easy: Mostly single crochet with increases and decreases, working in the round, some sewing and embroidery.
Size
4 inches diameter at widest point, not including legs and tail x 10 inches tall
Gauge
10 sc in the round = 4 inches
10 rnds = 3.75 inches
Use pattern as gauge swatch – After rnd 5 of body, work should measure 4 inches in diameter.
Exact gauge is not critical for this pattern but will affect yarn usage.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- bpdc = back post double crochet
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet
- dec = decrease (see Special Stitches)
- fpdc = front post double crochet
- inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet
- sk = skip
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, sc in both loops (like normal) of same st. (See increase tutorial here)
Decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both indicated sts, yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through both loops on hook.
This is an alternative to a single crochet 2-together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Instructions
Most of the pattern is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark first st of each rnd.
Body
Holding 2 strands of MC together, ch 2.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Inc in next st, sc in next st] around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in next st, inc in next st, [sc in each of next 2 sts, inc in next st] around to last st, sc in last st. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [Inc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts] around. (30 sts)
Work should now measure 3.75 inches in diameter.
Rnd 6: Sc in each of next 3 sts, inc in next st, [sc in each of next 5 sts, inc in next st] around to last 2 sts, sc in each of last 2 sts. (35 sts)
Rnd 7: [Inc in next st, sc in each of next 6 sts] around. (40 sts)
Rnds 8-10: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 11: Sc in each of next 4 sts, dec in next 2 sts, [sc in each of next 8 sts, dec in next 2 sts] 3 times, sc in last 4 sts. (36 sts)
Rnds 12-13: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 14: [Dec in next 2 sts, sc in each of next 4] around. (30 sts)
Rnds 15-16: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 17: Sc in each of next 2 sts, dec in next 2 sts, [sc in each of next 3 sts, dec in next 2 sts] around to last st, sc in last st. (24 sts)
Rnd 18: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 19: [Dec in next 2 sts, sc in each of next 2 sts] around. (18 sts)
Rnd 20: [Sc in next st, dec in next 2 sts] around. (12 sts)
Stuff Body.
Head
Rnds 21-23: Rep rnds 3-5. (30 sts)
Rnds 24-26: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 27: Rep rnd 17. (24 sts)
Rnds 28-31: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 32-33: Rep rnds 19-20. (12 sts)
Stuff Head.
Rnd 34: [Dec in next 2 sts] around, join with sl st in first st. (6 sts)
Fasten off. Use tails to sew top of Head and bottom of Body closed. Weave in all ends.
Ear (Make 2)
With 1 strand of MC, ch 2.
Rnd 1 (WS): 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (8 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around.
Fold ear in half with WS together and working loop at right edge (left edge if you are crocheting left-handed). The 16 sts of rnd 2 should form 8 pairs of sts in 2 layers.
Rnd 3: Sl st in each pair of sts around, join with sl st to first sl st.
The join will pull the corners together to form the rounded ear.
Fasten off, leaving an 8-inch tail for sewing.
Arm (Make 2)
Holding 2 strands of MC together and leaving a 10-inch tail for sewing, ch 8, join in first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1: 8 sc in ring. (8 sts)
Rnd 2: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 3: Sc in each of next 3 sts, dec in next 2 sts, sc in each of last 3 sts. (7 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 5: Dec in next 2 sts, sc in each of next 5 sts. (6 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in each st around.
Fasten off.
Flatten rnd 6 so that the 6 sts form 3 pairs of sts in 2 layers.
Hand: Working through both layers, join 1 strand of CC with sl st in first pair of sts, 5 dc in next pair of sts, sl st in last pair of sts. (5 dc)
Fasten off. Stuff arms lightly about halfway if desired. Sample shows a very small amount of stuffing.
Leg & Foot (Make 1 Left and 1 Right)
Holding 2 strands of MC together and leaving a 12-inch tail for sewing, ch 3.
Thigh (worked in rows)
Row 1 (RS): 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in last ch. (4 sts)
Rows 2-3: Ch 1, turn, inc in first st, sc in each st across to last st, inc in last st. (8 sts)
Rows 4-5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Calf (worked in rnds)
Rnd 6: Sc in each st around, join with sl st in first st. (10 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in first st, [dec in next 2 sts, sc in next st] around to last st, sc in last st. (7 sts)
Rnd 8: Dec in first 2 sts, sc in each remaining st around. (6 sts)
Rnd 9: Rep Rnd 6, fasten off.
Foot
Flatten Rnd 9 so the 6 sts form 3 pairs of sts in 2 layers with open edge of thigh on left edge for left leg and on right edge for right leg.
This may feel backwards, but that is because the foot starts on a WS row. All that really matters at this point is that the two thighs face in opposite directions.
Working in rows:
Row 1: Holding 2 strands of CC together, join with sl st in first st, ch 1, 2 hdc in first pair of sts, hdc in next pair of sts, 2 hdc in last pair of sts. (5 hdc)
Row 2 (RS): Ch 1 turn, sc in first st, fpdc around same st, [sc in next st, fpdc around same st] twice, sc in same st as last sc made (center), [fpdc around next st, sc in same st] twice. (5 fpdc, 6 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, [sl st in next sc, bpdc in next fpdc] 5 times, sl st in last sc.
Fasten off. Stuff thigh.
Tail:
Holding 2 strands of CC together, ch 3.
Rnd 1: 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc in next ch. (8 sts)
Rnd 2: Sc in each of next 2 sts, inc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts, inc in next st, sc in last st (10 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in each of next 2 sts, inc in next st, sc in each of next 4 sts, inc in next st, sc in each of last 2 sts (12 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 5: Sc in each of next 3 sts, inc in next st, sc in each of next 5 sts, inc in next st, sc in each of last 2 sts (14 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 7: Sc in each of next 4 sts, inc in next st, sc in each of next 6 sts, inc in next st, sc in each of last 2 sts (16 sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 9: Sc in each of next 5 sts, inc in next st, sc in each of next 7 sts, inc in next st, sc in each of last 2 sts (18 sts)
Rnds 10-18: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 19: [Dec in next 2 sts, sc in each of next 7 sts] twice, join with sl st in first st. (16 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail for sewing. Do not stuff tail.
Muzzle:
Holding 2 strands of CC together, ch 3.
Rnd 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 6 sc in next ch, 3 sc in bottom of beginning ch. (12 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each of next 2 st, sc in each of next 2 sts, inc in each of next 4 sts, sc in each of next 2 sts, inc in each of last 2 sts. (20 sts)
Rnd 3: Inc in each of next 2 sts, *sc in next st, sl st in each of next 4 sts, sc in next st**, inc in each of next 4 sts, rep from * to **, inc in each of last 2 sts (28 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail for sewing.
Wrap one of the starting tails around center of muzzle, pull tightly to draw it in, and weave in end to secure.
Teeth:
Holding 2 strands of orange together, ch 3.
Sample shows 1 strand of super bulky yarn instead.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch. (2 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (2 sc)
Fasten off, leaving an 8-inch tail for sewing.
Assembly
Use long tails for sewing wherever possible throughout assembly.
Legs: Place legs on either side of body, with open end of thigh against bottom of body. Angle leg downward so that foot rests flat at bottom.
Sew to body around edge of thigh.
Tail: Holding work upside down, sew tail to center back, along the same rnd as bottom of thighs.
Sew another line one rnd above.
This second line makes the tail curve slightly at the body and keeps the seam from showing.
Arms: Flatten open end so that hand points in desired direction. Sew arms on either side of body at neckline, in line with top of thighs. Sample shows this sewn upside down like the tail. Doing so makes the arms stick out a little bit more. You can also sew it flat (right side up) if you prefer.
Muzzle & Tooth:
Sew teeth, WS up, to WS of muzzle at bottom center, so that teeth sticks out below muzzle.
Sew muzzle and teeth horizontally, centered between arms and legs, and positioned just below center of head. Tooth should be pointing downwards. Stuff each side of muzzle separately before closing, keeping stuffing away from center line.
Ears: Sew ears to top of head, evenly spaced above center of muzzle and positioned slightly closer to the front than the back.
Embroidery
Nose: With black, make several horizontal stitches at top center of muzzle for nose. Overlap edge of muzzle slightly, working a stitch or two on muzzle and several stitches just above muzzle.
Embroider a vertical line down center off muzzle all the way to bottom of tooth. Bring the vertical line around bottom edge of tooth and back up to bottom of muzzle. Weave in end on head, behind tooth.
Sample shows 4-5 backstitches total for this line.
Eyes: With a new piece of black, embroider eyes evenly spaced above center of muzzle. If desired, make a stitch from one eye to the other through the stuffing and pull gently. This will indent the eyes slightly. Repeat in the opposite direction and weave in end.
Weave in all remaining ends.
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