Free Crochet Patterns
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Free Pattern – 5 Minute Wine Glass Charms
Grab your box of buttons – you know the one. In just 5 minutes, take your mismatched favorites and turn them into these cute wine glass charms! These make great hostess gifts too, and you can have a whole set ready in no time!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
5 Minute Wine Glass Charms
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Materials:
- 2-5 yds, worsted weight yarn
- Size G / 4.0 mm hook
- 3/4 inch button
- Yarn needle
Difficulty:
Easy – All chains and slip stitches.
Size:
Approximately 3 inches long, not counting button.
Gauge:
13 sl sts = 3 inches. Exact gauge is not important for this project.
Abbreviations:
- ch = chain
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sl st = slip stitch
Instructions:
Chain 15. Sl st in 6th ch from hook and each ch across. Fasten off.
Your starting and ending tails should now be on the same side, and there should be a ch 5 loop at the other end.
If your button holes are big enough, thread one of the tails through your button. A beading needle or piece of floss can be helpful for this.
Slide button down as close as possible to the end of your work, and tie a knot with both tails to secure it. Weave in both tails.
If your button holes are too small, weave in both tails first and then sew the button on with thread.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern.
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches ‘N’ Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches ‘N’ Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Avondale Scarf
A little bit casual and a little bit quirky, the Avondale Scarf could easily become your go-to accessory for the season! The bold stripes in neutral colors have a unisex appeal that’s great for work or weekend wear. Add in the herringbone texture, with its slightly zigzag edge, and you have a piece that’s as much fun to make as it is to wear!
The sample is shown in Vanna’s Choice yarn, which I originally received for free from Lion Brand for another project. The colors are 118 Midnight Blue (A), 123 Beige (B), and 124 Toffee (C).
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains sponsored content and affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Avondale Scarf
Materials:
- Worsted weight yarn
- 135 yds navy (A)
- 65 yds cream (B)
- 85 yds brown (C)
- Size J / 6.0 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Difficulty:
Easy – The herringbone double crochet stitch (HBdc) is somewhat uncommon, but is an easy variation of the double crochet.
Size:
Approximately 7 inches x 55 inches.
Gauge:
11 HBdc x 8 rows = 4″ square. After row 8 of pattern, work should measure approximately 7″ x 4″. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations:
- ch = chain
- HBdc= Herringbone double crochet (see Special Stitch)
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
Special Stitch:
Herringbone Double Crochet (HBdc) – Yarn over, insert hook into next st, yarn over and draw up a loop. There are now 3 loops on your hook. Pull the 3rd loop through the 2nd loop. Yarn over and draw through one loop (chain 1). Yarn over and draw through both remaining loops on hook.
Instructions:
Note: Ch 3 at the start of a row counts as an HBdc throughout.
Row 1 (RS): With A: Ch 22 loosely, HBdc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across. (20 sts)
Row 2: Ch 3, turn, HBdc in next st and in each st across.
Row 3: Repeat row 2, changing to B at end of row.
Note: When changing colors, cut the old color, leaving a tail to weave in later. Do not carry colors from one section to another.
Rows 4-109: repeat row 2, working the indicated number of rows in each color as follows:
- 1 row B
- 2 rows C
- 1 row B
- 14 rows A
- 1 row B
- 14 rows C
- 1 row B
- 2 rows A
- 8 rows B
- 15 rows A
- 8 rows B
- 2 rows A
- 1 row B
- 14 rows C
- 1 row B
- 14 rows A
- 1 row B
- 2 rows C
- 1 row B
- 3 rows A
Fasten off, weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy this Avondale Scarf pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format offsets the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Streeterville Cowl
Stay warm and cozy without a lot of bulk! The Streeterville cowl works up quickly, and the linen stitch pattern creates a light and drapey fabric. I designed this for the yarn from one of my early attempts at spinning. The stitch pattern really allows the texture of uneven or thick-and-thin yarns to shine, so it’s great for novice spinners! It softens color transitions too, so works well with self-striping yarns.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Streeterville Cowl
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Materials:
- 175 yds, bulky weight yarn.
- Size K / 6.5 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
- Stitch marker (optional)
Difficulty:
Easy – All single crochets and chains, worked in continuous rounds. For more advanced crocheters, starting with foundation single crochet is recommended, but is not required.
Size:
Adult – one size fits most. Approximately 7.5 inches x 15 inches when flat (30 inches circumference).
Gauge:
Gauge swatch: 11 sts x 16 rows = 4 inches square in linen stitch pattern as follows. Row 1: Ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next st) across. Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, sc in first sp, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next sp) across to last st,s c in last st. Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next sp) across to last 2 sts, ch 1, sk next st, sc in last st. Rows 5-16: Repeat rows 3-4 six more times. Exact gauge is not critical.
OR
Measure gauge from pattern – after first 7 rows, your piece should measure about 2.25 inches x 15 inches (flat). Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations:
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- fsc = foundation single crochet (optional)
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
- Foundation Single Crochet by Moogly
- Tutorial – Continuous rounds and running stitch markers
- Tutorial – Why Continuous Rounds Shift
Instructions:
Note: You may find it helpful to mark the first stitch of each row with a stitch marker or piece of scrap yarn
Rnd 1 (RS): Work 83 fsc, join with sl st to first st. (83 fsc)
OR Ch 84 loosely, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, join with sl st to first sc. (83 sc)
Rnd 2: Do not turn, ch 1, sk first st, sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st) around, do not join. (41 sc, 42 sps)
Rnds 3-31: Continue working around, without joining or turning. (Sc, ch 1) in each sp, and sk each st. End row 31 with an sc.
Adjustment Row: (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next sp) 7 times. This partial row adjusts for the shift that naturally occurs when working in continuous rounds. After completing this row, you should be directly above the join from round 1.
Rnd 32: Sc in each sp and in each st around. (83 sc)
Fasten off and weave in all ends. Use starting tail to sew the gap closed at the bottom of row 1.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern.
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches ‘N’ Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches ‘N’ Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Super Stretchy Leg Warmers
Stay toasty all day with these cozy leg warmers that combine retro fun with a bit of modern style! The ribbed fabric is dense and warm, and the vertical stripes in neutral colors are an attractive accent to a variety of different outfits. They are worked sideways, so only one color is used at a time. As the name suggests, these are also super stretchy and fit a wide range of sizes, which makes them perfect for gifting!
This pattern was designed for the Holiday Stashdown CAL 2017 on CAL Central. With this CAL, you can clean out your stash and end up with some beautiful items for holiday gifting, plus there are tons of great giveaway prizes to be won!
The sample is shown in Vanna’s Choice yarn, which I originally received for free from Lion Brand for another project. The colors are 118 Midnight Blue (A), 123 Beige (B), and 124 Toffee (C).
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains sponsored content and affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Super Stretchy Leg Warmers
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Materials:
- Worsted weight yarn
- 25-35 yds navy (A)
- 50-70 yds cream (B)
- 35-45 yds brown (C)
- Size K / 6.5 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
- Stitch marker
Difficulty:
Easy – Slip stitches, color changes, slip stitch seam.
Size:
Instructions are given for small / medium, with changes for large / extra-large in [ ]. Circumference without stretching – 11 [14.5] inches at top, 10.25 [13.5] inches at bottom. Fits calf circumference of 11 – 15 [14.5-20] inches. Both sizes are 11 inches tall.
Gauge:
Gauge swatch: 18 sl sts in blo x 26 rows = 4 inches square as follows. Row 1: Ch 19, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Rows 2-26: Ch 1, turn, sl st in blo of each st across. Measure without stretching.
OR
Use legwarmer pattern to measure gauge – after first 8 rows, your piece should measure approximately 1.25 inches x 11 inches without stretching.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- blo = back loop only
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
Note: You may find it helpful to mark the first stitch of each row with a stitch marker or piece of scrap yarn
Row 1 (RS): With A, Ch 50, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (49 sl st)
Row 2: Ch 1, sl st in blo of each st across.
Row 3: Repeat row 2. Change to B.
Note: When changing colors always cut the old color, leaving a tail to weave in. Do not carry yarn from one color section to the next, as this will affect the stretchiness of your finished project.
Rows 4-7: With B, repeat row 2. Change to C at end of row 7.
Rows 8-9: With C, repeat row 2.
Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sl st in blo of first 25 st, leaving remaining sts unworked. (25 sl sts)
Row 11: Ch 1 (mark this ch), turn, sl st in blo of each st across. (25 sl sts)
Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sl st in blo of first 26 sts; sl st through marked turning ch and blo of next st together (see pictures below), remove marker, sl st in each remaining st across. (49 sl sts).
Row 13: Repeat row 2. Change to B
Rows 14-17: With B, repeat row 2, change to A at end of row 17.
Rows 18-21: With A, repeat row 2, change to B at end of row 21.
Repeat rows 4-21 once [twice], then repeat rows 4-17 once more. At end of last row, fasten off B without changing colors.
Joining row (WS): Fold work in half lengthwise. With A, and working through blo of last row and bottom of row 1 together (see picture below), sl st in each st across. Fasten off.
Weave in all ends, being careful to work vertically so that fabric retains its stretchiness.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. Thanks to becca0522 for testing it, and to wilmaelee for proof reading it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches ‘N’ Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches ‘N’ Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Bridgeport Scarf
Make the classic, striking, and uncomplicated Bridgeport Scarf in all your favorite colors! Keep it neutral for a business casual look, go bold with brights, or show your support for your favorite team. Lighter weight yarn makes it perfect for autumn weather, while a simple hdc variation adds subtle texture and fabulous drape.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Bridgeport Scarf
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Materials:
- DK weight yarn. Sample shown in Patons Astra, dark tan (AC) and medium tan (MC)
- 60 yds accent color (AC)
- 250 yds main color (MC)
- Size H / 5 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
- Stitch marker
Difficulty:
Easy – The herringbone half double crochet stitch (hhdc) is somewhat uncommon, but is an easy variation of the half double crochet.
Size:
7 inches x 55 inches. Size is easily adjustable.
Gauge:
14 hhdc x 9.5 rows = 4 inches square. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- hhdc = herringbone half double crochet (see Special Stitches)
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
Special Stitch:
Herringbone Half Double Crochet (hhdc) – Yarn over, insert hook into next st, yarn over and draw up a loop. There are now 3 loops on your hook. Pull the 3rd loop through the 2nd loop. Yarn over and draw through both remaining loops on hook.
Instructions:
Row 1 (RS): With AC, Ch 26, hhdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (25 hhdc)
Note: For a wider or narrower scarf, start with more or fewer stitches.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, hhdc in each st across, changing to AC.
Note: When changing colors, cut the old color, leaving a tail to weave in later. Do not carry colors from one section to another.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, hhdc in each st across, changing to MC.
Rows 4-5: Ch 1, turn, hhdc in each st across, changing to AC at end of last row.
Rows 6-7: Ch 1, turn, hhdc in each st across, changing to MC at end of last row.
Rows 8-21: Repeat rows 4-7 three times, then repeat rows 4-5 once more.
Rows 21-108: Ch 1, turn, hhdc in each st across.
Note: You can work more or fewer rows here if desired, just be sure to end on a wrong side row.
Rows 109-128: Repeat rows 4-7 five times.
Row 129: Repeat row 2
Rows 130-131: Ch 1, turn, hhdc in each st across.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy the pattern! A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches ‘N’ Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches ‘N’ Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Bucktown Slouch
The Bucktown slouch is great for gifting, but you’ll want to make one for yourself too! It features an open stitch pattern that allows for some airflow, and adds even more drape to the casual style. Make it extra cozy for winter wear, with luxuriously soft alpaca or wool.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Bucktown Slouch
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Materials:
- 150 yds bulky weight yarn.
I recommend a softer / fuzzier alpaca or wool yarn for this pattern. The sample was made with Plymouth Juli, which is now discontinued. Some possible alternatives are Schulana Silverstar, Valley Yarns Peru, or Berroco North Star. - Size K / 6.5 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Size I / 5.5 mm hook or two sizes smaller than the larger size used.
- Yarn needle
- Locking stitch marker (optional)
Difficulty:
Intermediate – Mostly chains and single crochets, but the increase rounds at the beginning require a little extra attention. Front and back post stitches for the ribbing section.
Size:
Adult – one size fits most
Gauge:
Use the first few rounds as your gauge swatch – after round 5, your piece should measure approximately 4.25″ in diameter. Measure without stretching, and from the one single crochet to another single crochet, not from the chain spaces.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- fpdc = front post double crochet
- bpdc = back post double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
- How to Crochet a Magic Circle by Petals to Picots
- Front and Back Post Stitch Crochet – Jessie at Home
Instructions:
Note: You may find it helpful to mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker
Increase Section:
Start with larger hook
Rnd 1 (RS): Make a magic circle, ch 1, (sc, ch 3) 6 times in magic circle, pull circle closed, sl st in first sc.
OR: Ch 2, (sc, ch 3) 6 times in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in first sc. (6 sc, 6 ch-3 sps).
Rnd 2: Turn, ch 1, sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3, [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3] 5 times, sl st in first sc. (6 sc, 6 dc, 12 ch-3 sps).
Rnd 3: Turn, ch 1, sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp (ch 3, sk next st, sc in next sp) around, ch 3, sl st in first sc. (12 sc, 12 ch-3 sps)
Rnd 4: Turn, ch 1, sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 3, sk next st, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3, [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk next st, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3] 5 times, sl st in first sc. (12 sc, 6 dc, 18 ch-3 sps).
Rnd 5: Repeat rnd 3. (18 sc, 18 ch-3 sps).
Note: Your work should now measure approximately 4.25″ in diameter, without stretching, from one sc across to the opposite sc (ignoring the chain spaces).
Rnd 6: Turn, ch 1, sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, [ch 3, sk next st, sc in next ch-3 sp] twice, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3, *sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sk next st, sc in next ch-3 sp] twice, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3, repeat from * 4 more times, sl st in first sc. (18 sc, 6 dc, 24 ch-3 sps).
Rnd 7: Repeat rnd 3. (24 sc, 24 ch-3 sps).
Rnd 8: Turn, ch 1, sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, [ch 3, sk next st, sc in next sp] 3 times, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3, *sc in next sp, [ch 3, sk next st, sc in next sp] 3 times, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3, repeat from * 4 more times, sl st in first sc. (24 sc, 6 dc, 30 ch-3 sps).
Note: Your work should now measure approximately 8″ in diameter, without stretching, from one sc across to the opposite sc (ignoring the chain spaces).
Straight Section:
Continue with larger hook
Rnd 9 (RS): Turn, ch 1, sl st in first sp, mark this sl st with a stitch marker or loop of scrap yarn, (ch 3, sk next st, sc in next sp) around. Do not join, do not turn. (29 sc, 29 sps)
Rnds 10-25: Do not turn, (ch 3, sc in next sp) around. Do not join. (29 sc, 29 sps)
Note: The next round is a partial round, just to adjust for the shift that naturally occurs when working in continuous rounds.
Adjustment Rnd: Do not turn, ch 3, (sk next st, sc in next sp, ch 3) until you reach a point in line with the marker from rnd 9, sk next st, sl st in next sp.
Ribbing:
Switch to smaller hook
Rnd 26 (RS): Do not turn, ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc in next st, dc in next sp) 14 times, sk next st, dc in next sp, (dc in next st, dc in next sp) 14 times sk last st, join with sl st to first dc. (58 dc)
Rnds 27-31: Do not turn, ch 2 (counts as bpdc), fpdc in next st, (bpdc in next st, fpdc in next st) around, join with sl st in first st. (58 sts)
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy the pattern! A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches ‘N’ Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches ‘N’ Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Hugs & Kisses
Wrap your child in love with this lightweight, tunic length pullover. The hugs & kisses detail on the hem and sleeves is easy to make, with alternating X stitches and clusters. With a casual fit and side slits, this comfy sweater could easily become an everyday favorite!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains sponsored content and affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Hugs & Kisses
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Materials:
- Plymouth Dreambaby DK yarn – 2 [2, 3, 3, 3, 4] skeins #0124 Cornflower
- Size G / 6 / 4 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn or Tapestry needle
- 3 locking stitch markers
Difficulty:
Intermediate – Mostly half double crochet stitches, some special stitches and simple shaping.
Sizes:
Instructions are written for 6 months, with changes for 12 months, 18 months, 2T, 3T, and 4T in [ ].
Gauge:
16 hdc x 12 rows = 4 inches. Correct gauge is important for a good fit – take time to check your gauge.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- tr = treble crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- yo = yarn over
- X = X stitch (see special stitches)
- hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 stitches together (see special stitches)
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- rnd = round
- WS = wrong side
- RS = right side
Special Stitches:
X-stitch (X): Sk next 2 sts, tr in next st, ch 1, working behind tr just made, tr in first of the 2 skipped stitches.
Cluster (cl): (Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo and draw up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook) 4 times in same st, yo and pull through all five loops on hook, ch 1 to close.
Beg Cluster (beg cl): Ch 2, (Yo, insert hook in same st, yo and draw up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook) 3 times, yo and pull through all four loops on hook, ch 1 to close.
Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hdc2tog): Yo, (insert hook in next st, yo and draw up a loop) twice, yo and pull through all four loops on hook.
Recommended Resources:
Schematic:
Instructions:
Front & Back Hem (make 2) :
Ch 42 [43, 45, 47, 49, 50] loosely.
Row 1 (RS [RS, RS, WS, WS, WS]): Working in back bar of the chain, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (41 [42, 44, 46, 48, 49] sts)
Rows 2 – 5 [5, 5, 6, 6, 6]: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across.
Fasten off after first hem section, but do not fasten off after 2nd hem section.
Body:
Note: Join rounds with slip stitch in first st of round, unless otherwise stated.
Rnd 1 (RS): Continuing on 2nd hem section, ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across, now working into last row of 1st hem section, with RS [RS, RS, WS, WS, WS] facing, hdc in each st across, join. (82, [84, 88, 92, 96, 98] sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st around, join.
Sizes 6 month & 3T only:
Rnd 3: Turn, sl st in first 2 sts, beg cl (see Special Stitches), ch1, sk next st, (X (see Special Stitches), ch 1, sk next st, cl (see Special Stitches) in next st, ch 1, sk next st) 13 [15] times, X, ch 1, join.
Rnd 4: Turn, sl st in ch sp, ch 1, hdc in same sp and in each ch sp and st around, join. (84 [96] sts)
Sizes 12 month & 4T only:
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, *(ch 1, sk next st, cl (see Special Stitches) in next st, ch 1, sk next st, X (see Special Stitches)) 7 [8] times,** hdc in next 2 sts, rep from * to **, hdc in last st, join.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each ch sp and st around, join. (88 [100] sts)
Sizes 18 month & 2T only:
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, *(ch 1, sk next st, cl (see Special Stitches) in next st, ch 1, sk next st, X (see Special Stitches)) 7 times, ch 1, sk next st, cl in next st, ch 1, sk next st,** hdc in next st, rep from * to **, join.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each ch sp and st around, join. (92 sts)
All Sizes: Rnds 5-20 [21, 22, 23, 24, 24]: Rep rnd 2. Do not fasten off.
Yoke:
Rnd 1 (RS [WS, RS, RS, WS, RS]): Turn, sl st in first st, ch 1, *hdc in next 40 [42, 44, 44, 46, 48] sts, ch 30 [32, 34, 36, 38, 40],** sk next 2 sts, rep from * to **, sk last st, join. (70 [74, 78, 80, 84, 88] sts, 2 ch sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc dec (see Special Stitches) in first 2 chs, *hdc in next 26 [28, 30, 32, 34, 36] chs, hdc dec in next 2 chs, mark last st worked, hdc dec in next 2 sts, hdc in next 36 [38, 40, 40, 42, 44] sts, hdc dec in next 2 sts,** mark last st worked, hdc dec in next 2 chs, rep from * to **, join. (132 [140, 148, 152, 160, 168] sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, hdc dec, (hdc in each st across to two sts before next marker, hdc dec, move marker to last st worked, hdc dec) 3 times, hdc in each st across to last 2 sts, hdc dec, join. (124 [132, 140, 144, 152, 160] sts)
Rnds 4-12 [13, 14, 14, 15, 16]: Rep rnd 3. Do not fasten off. (52 [52, 52, 56, 56, 56]sts).
Next Rnd (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first st.
Sleeves:
With WS facing, join yarn with sl st at center of underarm.
Rnd 1 (WS): Ch 1, Work 34 [36, 38, 40, 42, 44] hdc evenly spaced around armhole opening, join.
Sizes 18 months, 2T, 3T, & 4T only: Rnd(s) 2 [2, 2-3, 2-3]: Ch 1, turn, hdc in next st and in each st around, join.
Next Rnd: Ch 1, turn, hdc dec, hdc in next st and in each st around, join. (33 [35, 37, 39, 41, 43] sts)
Next Rnds: Rep last rnd 13 [15, 15, 17, 17, 19]times. (20 [20, 22, 22, 24, 24] sts)
Sizes 18 months, 2T, 3T, & 4T only: Rep Rnd 2 once (once, twice, twice)
Pattern Rnd:
Sizes 6month & 12 month only: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, [ch 1, sk next st, cl in next st, ch 1, sk next st, X] 3 times, hdc in last st, join.
Sizes 18 month & 2T only: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, [ch 1, sk next st, cl in next st, ch 1, sk next st, X] 3 times, ch 1, sk next st, cl in next st, ch 1, sk last st, join.
Sizes 3T & 4T only: Turn, beg cl, [ch 1, sk next st, X, ch 1, sk next st, cl in next st] 3 times, ch 1, sk next st, X, ch 1, join.
Next Rnd: Ch 1, hdc in each st and sp around. (20 [20, 22, 22, 24, 24] sts)
Rnds 18-20 [20-22, 22-24, 24-26, 26-28, 28-30]: Ch 1, turn, hdc in next st and in each st around, join.
Rep sleeve instructions for 2nd sleeve
Hem Edging:
- With RS facing, join with sl st in last (first, last, first, last, first) st of row 1 of front hem section. See schematic for placement.
- Working into bottom of row 1 of front hem, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across to last st on front, 2 sc in last st.
- Working into sides of rows, work 10 [10, 10, 12, 12, 12] sc across side slit
- Working into bottom of row 1 of back hem, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across to last st on back, 2 sc in last st.
- Working into sides of rows, work 10 [10, 10, 12, 12, 12] sc across side slit, join. (108 [112, 116, 120, 124, 128] sts)
Fasten off and weave in all ends
I hope you enjoy the pattern. Thanks to Plymouth for providing the yarn! A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches ‘N’ Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches ‘N’ Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Lacy Ruffles
This easy design is decorated with pretty ruffles around the collar, hem, and sleeves. With a lightweight yarn and frilly cap sleeves, this sweater is perfect for sunny summer weather, or can be worn over a long sleeve shirt for cooler weather. The adorable model in the picture is wearing a sample that’s about 1 size too big for her.
This pattern was designed for the 2017 Summer Activities Crochet Along, and my theme was “Playing in the Sunshine.” Check out the main CAL post for more information, and great summer themed patterns!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains sponsored content and affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Lacy Ruffles
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Materials:
- Caron Simply Soft Light yarn – 2 [2, 2, 2, 2, 3] skeins #0018 Coral
- Size H / 8 / 5 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn or Tapestry needle
- 1 locking stitch marker
- Optional: Ribbon flowers or other embellishments as desired
Difficulty:
Easy – Mostly dc stitches, some simple shaping.
Sizes:
Instructions are written for 6 months, with changes for 12 months, 18 months, 2T, 3T, and 4T in [ ].
Gauge:
15 dc x 10 rows = 4 inches. Correct gauge is important for a good fit – take time to check your gauge.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- yo = yarn over
- V = V stitch (see special stitches)
- hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 stitches together (see special stitches)
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- rnd = round
- WS = wrong side
- RS = right side
Special Stitches:
V-stitch (V): (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.
Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hdc2tog): Yo, (insert hook in next st, yo and draw up a loop) twice, yo and pull through all four loops on hook.
Fan: (dc, ch 1) 4 times in indicated st, dc in same st. (5 dc, 4 chs)
Recommended Resources:
- Working into the back bump
- Half double crochet 2 together (hdc2tog)
- Front loop only and back loop only – by Moogly
Schematic:
Instructions:
Yoke:
Ch 54 [56, 58, 60, 62, 62] loosely. Do not join. Mark first ch (for use with edging later).
Note: Joining after rnd 1, instead of at the starting chain, makes it easier to join without twisting. This will leave a slight gap at the bottom, which you can close when sewing in tails. Join with a slip stitch in first st of round, unless otherwise stated.
Rnd 1 (RS [WS, RS, WS, RS, WS]): Working in back bumps of chs, ch 3 (counts as dc, now and throughout), turn, dc in next 19 [7, 8, 19, 19, 11] sts, ch 1, dc in next 7 [20, 20, 10, 11, 20] sts, ch 1, dc in next 20 [8, 9, 20, 20, 12] sts, ch 1, dc in next 7 [20, 20, 10, 11, 20] sts, ch 1. Join, being careful not to twist the round. (54 [56, 58, 60, 62, 64] sts, 4 sps)
Rnds 2-8 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11): Turn, sl st in first sp, ch 3, (dc in each st across to next sp, V in next sp) 3 times, dc in each st across, (dc, ch 1) in first sp, join. (110 [120, 122, 132, 134, 142] sts, 4 sps)
Rnd 9 (10, 10, 11, 11, 12): Turn, sl st in first sp, ch 3, *dc in each st across to next sp, dc in next sp, ch 5 [4, 5, 4, 5, 4] (underarm), sk next 21 [24, 25, 28, 29, 32] sts,** dc in next sp, rep from * to **, join, (72 [76, 76, 80, 80, 84] sts), do not fasten off.
Body:
Rnd 1 (WS [WS, RS, RS, WS, WS):
Sizes 6 months, 18 months, 2T, 3T, & 4T only: Turn, sl st in first 3 underarm chs, ch 3, dc in same ch, *dc in next 2 [2, 1, 2, 1] chs, dc in next 36 [38, 40, 40, 42] sts, dc in next 2 chs,** 2 dc in next ch, rep from * to **, join. (84 [88, 90, 92, 94] sts)
Size 12 months only: Turn, sl st in first 3 underarm chs, ch 3, dc in next ch, dc in each ch and in each st around, join. (84 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 40 [40, 42, 43, 45, 46] sts, 1 [1, 1, 1, 2, 2] dc in next st, dc in next 41 [41, 43, 44, 45, 46] sts, 1 [1, 1, 1, 2, 2] dc in last st, join. (84 [84, 88, 90, 94, 96] sts)
Rnds 3-14 [14, 15, 15, 16, 16]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st around, join. (84 [84, 88, 90, 94, 96] sts)
Rnd 15 [15, 16, 16, 17, 17]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 40 [40, 42, 43, 45, 46] sts, 1 [1, 1, 1, 2, 2] dc in next st, dc in next 41 [41, 43, 44, 46, 47] sts, 1 [1, 2, 1, 2, 1] dc in last st, join. (84 [84, 90, 90, 96, 96] sts), do not fasten off.
Hem Ruffle:
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 3, turn, *sk next 2 sts, fan in next st, sk next 2 sts,** dc in next st, rep from * 13 [13, 14, 14, 15, 15] times, ending at ** on last repeat, join. (14 [14, 15, 15, 16, 16] fans)
Rnd 2: Ch 4 (see Pattern Notes), turn, *{sk next st, V in next sp, ch 1,} 4 times, sk next st** dc in next st, ch 1, rep from * 13 [13, 14, 14, 15, 15] times, ending at ** on last repeat, join to 3rd ch of starting ch 4. (126 [126, 135, 135, 144, 144] dc)
Rnd 3: Turn, sl st in next sp, Ch 4, dc in same sp, *ch 1, sk next st, V in next sp repeat from * to last st, ch 1, sk last st, join to 3rd ch of starting ch 4. Fasten off. (252 [252, 270, 288, 288] dc)
Collar Ruffle:
With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in marked ch
Rnd 1 (RS):
Sizes 6 mo & 2T only: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, join. (54 [60] sts)
Sizes 12 mo & 3T only: Ch 1, hdc in first 23 [24] sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 26 [29] sts, hdc2tog, hdc in last 3 [5] sts, join. (54 [60] sts)
Sizes 18 months & 4T only: Ch 1, hdc in next 4 [26] sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 28 [31] sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in last 24 [5] sts, join. (60 [66] sts).
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, working in back loops only, hdc in each st around, join. (54 [54, 60, 60, 60, 66] sts)
Rnd 3:Ch 3, turn, *sk next 2 sts, fan (see Special Stitches) in next st, sk next 2 sts,** dc in next st, rep from * 8 [8, 9, 9, 9, 10] times, ending at ** on last repeat, join. (9 [9, 10, 10, 10, 11] fans)
Rnd 4: Ch 4, turn, *{sk next st, V in next sp, ch 1} 4 times, sk next st** dc in next st, ch 1, rep from * 8 [8, 9, 9, 9, 10] times, ending at ** on last repeat, join to 3rd ch of starting ch 4. (81 [81, 90, 90, 90, 99] dc)
Sleeve Ruffle:
With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in bottom of 3rd underarm ch from last rnd of yoke (center of underarm).
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in same ch and in next 2 [1, 2, 1, 2, 1] chs, 2 [3, 3, 2, 3, 3] sc in side of st from last rnd of yoke, hdc in next 21 [24, 25, 28, 29, 32] sts, 2 [3, 3, 2, 3, 3] sc in side of st from last rnd of yoke, sc in last 2 chs. (30 [34, 36, 36, 40, 42] sts)
Rnd 2:
Sizes 6 months, 18 months, 2T, and 4T only: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around. (30 [36, 36, 42] sc
Sizes 12 months & 3T only: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first 8 [10] sts, 2 hdc in next st, sc in next 16 [18] sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in last 8 [10] sts. (36 [42] sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 3, turn, *sk next 2 sts, fan (see Special Stitches) in next st, sk next 2 sts,** dc in next st, rep from * 4 [5, 5, 5, 6, 6] times, ending at ** on last repeat, join. (5 [6, 6, 6, 7, 7] fans)
Rnd 4: Ch 4, turn, *{sk next st, V in next sp, ch 1} 4 times, sk next st** dc in next st, ch 1, rep from * 13 [13, 14, 14, 15, 15] times, ending at ** on last repeat, join to 3rd ch of starting ch 4. (45 [54, 54, 54, 63, 63] dc)
Rnd 5: Turn, sl st in next sp, ch 4, dc in same sp, *ch 1, sk next st, V in next sp, ch 1, repeat from * to last st, ch 1, sk last st, join to 3rd ch of starting ch 4. Fasten off. (90 [108, 108, 108, 126, 126] dc).
Repeat sleeve ruffle instructions for 2nd sleeve.
Finishing:
- Sew in any remaining ends
- Sew on any embellishments as desired (optional).
I hope you enjoy the pattern. Thanks to Yarnspirations for providing the yarn! A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches ‘N’ Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches ‘N’ Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Reinventing the Wheel
Linked double crochet stitches give this pattern a dense, but still flexible texture. It works well as either a trivet or a washcloth. With only 7 rounds, it works up really quickly too!
Reinventing the Wheel
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Materials:
- Worsted weight, cotton yarn
- 40 yds blue (A)
- 20 yds gold (B)
- Size H (5 mm) hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Yarn or tapestry needle
Difficulty:
Intermediate – Repetitive pattern with only 2 stitches and few color changes, but the stitches may be unfamiliar.
Size:
About 8 inches diameter
Gauge:
13 dc x 7 rows = 4 inches. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- ldc = linked double crochet
- lsdt = linked spike double treble crochet
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- sl st = slip stitch
- sk = skip
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
Special Stitches:
Linked Double Crochet (ldc): (Click for full tutorial)
First stitch after turning chain: Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, draw up a loop. Insert hook into indicated stitch, draw up a loop. (Yarn over, draw through 2 loops on hook) twice.
Remaining stitches: Insert hook into horizontal / diagonal bar at the middle of the last st, draw up a loop. Insert hook into indicated stitch, draw up a loop. (Yarn over, draw through 2 loops on hook) twice.
Linked Spike Double Treble (lsdt): Insert hook into horizontal / diagonal bar from middle of last st, draw up a loop. Yarn over twice. Insert hook from bottom to top, into horizontal bar of indicated stitch (which will be 2 rows below), and draw up a loop. there should be 5 loops on your hook. (Yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook) 4 times. Do NOT skip the stitch behind the lsdt
Instructions:
With A, make a magic loop, leaving a fairly long starting tail (about 10 inches or so).
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as ldc, now and throughout), work 11 ldc inside magic loop, pull loop closed, join. (12 sts)
Note: Do NOT turn when starting a new round. Entire piece is worked on the right side.
Rnd 2: Ch 3, ldc in same st, 2 ldc in each remaining st, join. (24 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 3, ldc in same st, (ldc in next st, 2 ldc in next st) 11 times, ldc in last st, join. (36 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 3, ldc in same st, (ldc in next 2 sts, 2 ldc in next st) 11 times, ldc in last 2 sts, join, changing to B. (48 sts)
Note: You may find it helpful to mark the 3rd st of round 5 as you will be working into it later.
Rnd 5: With B, ch 3, ldc in same st, (ldc in next 3 sts, 2 ldc in next st) 11 times, ldc in last 3 sts, join, changing to A. (60 sts)
Rnd 6: With A, ch 3, ldc in same st, (ldc in next 4 sts, 2 ldc in next st) 11 times, ldc in last 4 sts, join, changing to B. (72 sts)
Rnd 7: With B, ch 3, ldc in next 2 sts, lsdt in 3rd st from rnd 5, (ldc in next 6 sts, sk next 4 sts on rnd 5, lsdt in next st on rnd 5) 11 times, ldc in last 3 sts, join. Fasten off. (84 sts)
Use the tails to sew closed any gaps at the start of the rounds, then weave them in. To make the join less noticeable, you can sew a horizontal bar across the middle of each starting chain.
I hope you enjoy the pattern. Thanks to Carrey Rey for testing it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Tropical Stripes Market Bag Crochet Pattern
Whether you’re visiting a farmers market or spending the day at the beach, take the Tropical Stripes market bag with you! This market bag crochet pattern works up quickly with a lovely, all-over texture. Jacob’s ladders add a decorative touch while also reinforcing the corners to minimize stretching.
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Updated in 2023
This market bag crochet pattern got a makeover in April of 2023. Changes include updated formatting, stitch charts, and a few tweaks to the pattern itself.
In the new version, the side (depth) of the bag is a little smaller, and the handle is longer. There are also extra stitches in the middle, to reduce the flaring at the top and bottom.
Red Heart With Love Yarn
Yarnspirations provided Red Heart yarns for both the original and updated versions of the bag. For the updated version, I used Red Heart With Love yarn.
I chose #1975 Sandbar Stripes for the main color, and #1711 Cameo for the big stripe in the middle.
Original Version
Here’s what the original version of the market bag looked like, before the updates.
For this original bag, I used Red Heart Super Saver yarn in #4968 Parrot Stripe, and Red Heart Super Saver Ombre yarn in #3961 Scuba.
2017 Summer Activities Crochet Along
I designed this pattern for the CAL Central 2017 Summer Activities Crochet Along. Get the full list of summer-themed patterns in the main CAL post.
Add a Lining
Make your market bag even sturdier with a box bottom bag lining! This tutorial will walk you through all the steps.
You’ll need a few measurements from the crochet bag pattern to create the lining.
- Width of bag: 14 inches
- Depth of bag: 3 inches
- Height of bag (below handle opening): 14 inches
- Recommended seam allowance: 1/2 inch
Your actual measurements may vary slightly, depending on your gauge. For a perfect fit, measure your finished market bag!
Jacob’s Ladders
The corners of this market bag are reinforced with Jacob’s ladders. This fun and versatile technique adds a bold design element, while also adding some structural support to the bag. Learn more in this Jacob’s Ladders tutorial!
The ladders in this bag are made with chain-7 loops in the corners. They may look odd as you crochet, but they come together at the end. Just before the final round, you will connect these loops one by one to form the chunky Jacob’s Ladder chain.
Materials:
- Yarn: Red Heart With Love acrylic, worsted weight yarn – 370 yds / 198 g per skein (solids), 223 yds / 141 g per skein (stripes)
- 350 yds #1975 Sandbar Stripes (A)
- 125 yds #1711 Cameo (B)
- Hook: US size H (5 mm) hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Yarn needle
- 5 stitch markers
Project Level:
Intermediate: Worked in the round, Jacob’s ladders, front post single crochet
Size:
Width: 14 inches
Height: 15 inches at sides, 14 inches below handle
Depth: 3 inches
Gauge:
13 sc x 13 rows = 4 inches.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
fpsc = front post single crochet
rnd = round
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
Instructions
You may find it helpful to mark the first st of each rnd.
Bottom:
Scroll down for chart.
With A, ch 37
Rnd 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across to last ch, (sc, ch 2, sc, ch 2, sc) in last ch, working across opposite side of chs, sc in each ch across to last ch, (sc, ch 2, sc, ch 2) in last ch, join with sl st in first st. (74 sc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first ch-2 sp, [sc in each st across to next ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-2 sp] 3 times, sc in each st across to beginning ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2) in beginning ch-2 sp, join with sl st in first st. (82 sc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnds 3-4: Repeat rnd 2. (98 sc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in first ch-2 sp, [sc in each st across to next ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 7, sc) in next ch-2 sp] 3 times, sc in each st across to beginning ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 7) in beginning ch-2 sp, join with sl st in first st. (106 sc, 4 ch-7 loops)
You should now have a rectangle with 44 sc on each long side, 9 sc on each short side, and a ch 7 loop in each corner.
Bottom Chart
Body:
Scroll down for chart.
Rnd 6 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as corner ch-2 sp throughout), turn, sk first ch-7 loop, [fpsc around each st across to next ch-7 loop, ch 2 (corner), sk ch-7 loop] 3 times, fpsc around each st across, join with sl st in first ch-2 sp. (106 fpsc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Bottom Increases
Rnd 7: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *[ch 1, sk next st, sc in next st] twice, ch 1 (do not sk a st), sc in next st,** repeat from * to ** 7 times more, ch 1, sk next st, sc in next 2 sts, ch 7, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next st, repeat from * to ** once, ch 1, sk next st, sc in next 2 sts, ch 7, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next st, repeat from * to ** 8 times, ch 1, sk next st, sc in next 2 sts, ch 7, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next st, repeat from * to ** once, ch 1, sk next st, sc in next 2 sts, ch 7, sk next ch-2 sp, join with sl st in first st. (66 sc, 58 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-7 loops)
Linen Stitch Main Section
Rnd 8: Ch 3, turn, sk first ch-7 loop, *[sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st] across to last st before next ch-7 loop, sc in next st,** ch 2, sk ch-7 loop, repeat from * twice more, then repeat from * to ** once more, join with sl st in first ch-2 sp. (66 sc, 58 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *[ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-1 sp] across to one st before next ch-2 sp, sc in next st, ch 7, sk ch-2 sp,** sc in next st, repeat from * twice more, then rep from * to ** once more, join with sl st in first st. (66 sc, 58 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-7 loops).
Rnds 10-27: Repeat rnds 8-9 nine times.
Change to B.
Rnds 28-47: Repeat rnds 8-9 ten times.
Change to A.
Rnds 48-51: Repeat rnds 8-9 twice.
Top Decreases
Rnd 52 (WS): Ch 3, turn, sk first ch-7 loop, sc in each of first 2 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, *sc in next st, sk next ch-1 sp, [sc in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp] twice,** sc in next st, ch 2, sk next ch-7 loop, sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, repeat from * to ** 8 times, sc in next st, ch 2, sk next ch-7 loop, sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, repeat from * to ** once, sc in next st, ch 2, sk next ch-7 loop, sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, repeat from * to ** 8 times, sc in last st, join with sl st to first ch-2 sp. (106 sc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 53: Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st across to next ch-2 sp, ch 7, sk next ch-2 sp] 4 times, join with sl st in first st. (106 sc, 4 ch-7 loops)
Body Chart
Work only the black stitches. The greyed-out symbols show stitches from the previous section, and connecting stitches at the beginning/end of the round.
Handles
Scroll down for chart of Handles and final round together.
Rnd 54: Ch 3, turn, sk first ch-7 loop, *sc in each of next 9 sts, ch 2, sk next ch-7 loop, sc in each of next 12 sts, ch 60, sk next 20 sts, sc in each of next 12 sts,** ch 2, sk next ch-7 loop, repeat from * to **, join with sl st in first ch-2 sp. (66 sc, two ch-60 handles, 4 ch-2 sps)
For a neater finish, work into the back bump of the chs on next rnd.
Rnd 55: Ch 1, turn, [sc in each of next 10 sts, sc2tog, sc in each of next 60 chs, sc2tog, sc in each of next 10 sts, ch 7, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in each of next 9 sts, ch 7, sk next ch-2 sp] twice, join with sl st in first st. (138 sts, 4 ch-7 loops)
Rnd 56: Ch 3, turn, sk first ch-7 loop [sc in each st across to next ch-7 loop, ch 2, sk next ch-7 loop] 3 times, sc in each st across, join with sl st in first ch-2 loop. (138 sc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 57: Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st across to next ch-2 sp, ch 7, sk ch-2 sp] 4 times, join with sl st in first st. (138 sc, 4 ch-7 loops)
Rnd 58: Repeat rnd 56.
Secure working loop with a stitch marker and remove hook. If you used a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the rnds, you can use that same one to secure the working loop now. Put it back in the first stitch when you start rnd 59.
Form Ladders
When forming a ladder, work from the RS of the bag, on top of the ch-2 sps, so that the ch-2 sps are hidden on the inside of the bag.
At any corner, pick up the ch-7 loop from rnd 5 and twist it 1/2 twist in either direction. (Once you choose a direction, do this in the same direction for each corner)
Using a hook or your fingers, pull the next loop through the current one, without twisting it.
Repeat last step for each remaining loop in this corner. Do not twist any loops except the first one.
Secure the last loop temporarily with a stitch marker (or scrap of yarn).
Form ladders in each of the remaining 3 corners.
Final Round
Scroll down for chart.
Return working loop from rnd 58 to your hook.
Rnd 59: Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st across to next ch-2 sp, sl st in marked top loop of ladder, sk ch-2 sp] 4 times, join with sl st in first st. (138 sc, 4 sl sts)
Fasten off.
Remove markers.
Weave in all ends.
Handles & Final Rnd Chart
Work only the black stitches. The greyed-out symbols show stitches from the previous section, and connecting stitches at the beginning/end of the round.
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