Free Pattern – Bucktown Slouch
The Bucktown slouch is great for gifting, but you’ll want to make one for yourself too! It features an open stitch pattern that allows for some airflow, and adds even more drape to the casual style. Make it extra cozy for winter wear, with luxuriously soft alpaca or wool.
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Bucktown Slouch
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Materials:
- 150 yds bulky weight yarn.
I recommend a softer / fuzzier alpaca or wool yarn for this pattern. The sample was made with Plymouth Juli, which is now discontinued. Some possible alternatives are Schulana Silverstar, Valley Yarns Peru, or Berroco North Star. - Size K / 6.5 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Size I / 5.5 mm hook or two sizes smaller than the larger size used.
- Yarn needle
- Locking stitch marker (optional)
Difficulty:
Intermediate – Mostly chains and single crochets, but the increase rounds at the beginning require a little extra attention. Front and back post stitches for the ribbing section.
Size:
Adult – one size fits most
Gauge:
Use the first few rounds as your gauge swatch – after round 5, your piece should measure approximately 4.25″ in diameter. Measure without stretching, and from the one single crochet to another single crochet, not from the chain spaces.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- fpdc = front post double crochet
- bpdc = back post double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
- How to Crochet a Magic Circle by Petals to Picots
- Front and Back Post Stitch Crochet – Jessie at Home
Instructions:
Note: You may find it helpful to mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker
Increase Section:
Start with larger hook
Rnd 1 (RS): Make a magic circle, ch 1, (sc, ch 3) 6 times in magic circle, pull circle closed, sl st in first sc.
OR: Ch 2, (sc, ch 3) 6 times in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in first sc. (6 sc, 6 ch-3 sps).
Rnd 2: Turn, ch 1, sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3, [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3] 5 times, sl st in first sc. (6 sc, 6 dc, 12 ch-3 sps).
Rnd 3: Turn, ch 1, sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp (ch 3, sk next st, sc in next sp) around, ch 3, sl st in first sc. (12 sc, 12 ch-3 sps)
Rnd 4: Turn, ch 1, sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 3, sk next st, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3, [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk next st, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3] 5 times, sl st in first sc. (12 sc, 6 dc, 18 ch-3 sps).
Rnd 5: Repeat rnd 3. (18 sc, 18 ch-3 sps).
Note: Your work should now measure approximately 4.25″ in diameter, without stretching, from one sc across to the opposite sc (ignoring the chain spaces).
Rnd 6: Turn, ch 1, sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, [ch 3, sk next st, sc in next ch-3 sp] twice, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3, *sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sk next st, sc in next ch-3 sp] twice, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3, repeat from * 4 more times, sl st in first sc. (18 sc, 6 dc, 24 ch-3 sps).
Rnd 7: Repeat rnd 3. (24 sc, 24 ch-3 sps).
Rnd 8: Turn, ch 1, sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, [ch 3, sk next st, sc in next sp] 3 times, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3, *sc in next sp, [ch 3, sk next st, sc in next sp] 3 times, ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3, repeat from * 4 more times, sl st in first sc. (24 sc, 6 dc, 30 ch-3 sps).
Note: Your work should now measure approximately 8″ in diameter, without stretching, from one sc across to the opposite sc (ignoring the chain spaces).
Straight Section:
Continue with larger hook
Rnd 9 (RS): Turn, ch 1, sl st in first sp, mark this sl st with a stitch marker or loop of scrap yarn, (ch 3, sk next st, sc in next sp) around. Do not join, do not turn. (29 sc, 29 sps)
Rnds 10-25: Do not turn, (ch 3, sc in next sp) around. Do not join. (29 sc, 29 sps)
Note: The next round is a partial round, just to adjust for the shift that naturally occurs when working in continuous rounds.
Adjustment Rnd: Do not turn, ch 3, (sk next st, sc in next sp, ch 3) until you reach a point in line with the marker from rnd 9, sk next st, sl st in next sp.
Ribbing:
Switch to smaller hook
Rnd 26 (RS): Do not turn, ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc in next st, dc in next sp) 14 times, sk next st, dc in next sp, (dc in next st, dc in next sp) 14 times sk last st, join with sl st to first dc. (58 dc)
Rnds 27-31: Do not turn, ch 2 (counts as bpdc), fpdc in next st, (bpdc in next st, fpdc in next st) around, join with sl st in first st. (58 sts)
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy the pattern! A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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4 Comments
Rebecca
Is the “hair” underneath a pattern of yours as well? This hat came up when I was looking for cancer patient hats with hair and the woman I’m making if got loves the look of the whole thing. Thanks!!
Pia Thadani
Unfortunately, it’s not really wearable – it’s just a strip of thick fringe pinned down the middle of the foam head. Here’s a tutorial on how I did it: https://stitchesnscraps.com/tutorial-making-hair-foam-head/
Natalie
Does “turn” mean to turn the whole work like you’re not working in the round continuously?
Pia Thadani
yes exactly. The crown is worked in turned rounds, the body of the hat is worked in continuous rounds.