Free Crochet Patterns – Home Décor
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Crochet Stash Buster – Linen Stitch Scrap Rug
Use up all your yarn scraps with a Linen Stitch Scrap Rug! This crochet stash buster is thick, soft, and squishy, and designed to use up lots of yarn, very quickly, without weaving in a lot of ends. The stitch pattern is a simple 2 stitch repeat, so can easily be adjusted to any size.
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5 strands at a time
Using 5 strands of yarn at a time gives this rug its luscious, squishy softness. It’s also a real yarn eater! If you only change one strand at a time, and work over the ends before changing another strand, then the ends should be secure and won’t need to be woven in. See this tutorial for more details.
Remember, what makes this work is the number of strands in the bundle, which help hold that single end in place. If you use fewer strands, you may find yourself needing to weave in the ends.
So many uses
Since I first published this pattern, it’s been one of my most popular. Talented crocheters have come up with some beautiful color schemes, and have used the pattern in lots of different ways. There are pet beds, throw rugs, runners, bath mats, even a sofa cover! Check out the amazing variety of projects on Ravelry. What will you make?
Stash busting yarn choices
For my rug, I used mostly Red Heart Super Saver, with a few other yarns mixed in. I chose to stick to all worsted weight yarns, to keep a very uniform size. You absolutely can mix different weights of yarn, but try to keep the size of the total bundle of yarns as consistent as possible.
Different fibers can also be fun! Just remember that the bundle of fibers is what holds the ends in place without weaving in. If you choose yarns that are too slippery, you may need to weave in your ends.
Pattern continues below
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Materials:
- Yarn: 1500-1800 yds worsted weight yarn in a variety of colors.
- Hook: Size P (11.5 mm) hook or appropriate size for your yarns with 5 strands together
- Notions: Yarn needle
Project Level:
Easy – 2 stitch repeat using only chains and single crochets. The only challenging parts are working with 5 strands of yarn at once, and changing colors one at a time (see this Combining Scraps tutorial).
Size:
20 inches x 30 inches – Instructions include notes for adjusting size if desired.
Gauge:
8 st x 8 rows = 4 inches in linen stitch. After row 3 of pattern, your work should measure approximately 20 inches x 2 inches.
Exact gauge is not critical for this project, and in fact if you are working with scraps of different brands, your gauge may vary slightly. Choose a hook size that is comfortable to work with but still gives you a dense, somewhat stiff fabric – it should feel a little tight as you are working with it. The overall size can be adjusted as necessary by using more or fewer stitches/rows.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- sk = skip
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp = space
- ch sp = chain space
- WS = wrong side
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
With 5 strands of yarn held together, ch 41.
To adjust width of rug, add or remove chains as desired, using an odd number of chains.
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, (ch 1, sk next ch, sc in next ch) across to last ch, sc in last ch.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-1 sp) across to last st, sc in last st.
Change colors as needed, but only change one strand at a time. Work over the ends until they are completely gone before changing another color. See this Combining Scraps tutorial for more details.
Repeat last row 56 more times, or until desired length is reached, ending on a RS row.
Fasten off. Weave in remaining ends. Do not try to sew in the whole bundle of 5 yarns at once, or it will be very thick and noticeable. Instead, separate the 5 strands of yarn and sew them in one or two at a time.
I hope you enjoy the pattern. Special thanks to mbuchanan5, wilmalee, MixedKreations, lynne1, Megan Hampson & merryJ for testing it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Little Nubby Scrubbie
This textured scrubber is great for washing dishes, without scratching delicate finishes. Made with machine washable cotton, these should last a lot longer than store bought sponges.
The optional top flap makes a little pocket that you can slip your fingers into. This pattern works up quickly, so you can make a whole set in no time. Be sure to make some extras for gifts too!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Little Nubby Scrubbie
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Materials:
- 25-35 yds, Worsted weight, cotton yarn (not mercerized cotton)
- Size J / 10 (6 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn or tapestry needle
Difficulty:
Easy – Basic stitches and simple construction.
Size:
Approximately 3.5 inches x 4.5 inches
Gauge:
First 7 rows of pattern should measure about 3.25 inches x 4.25 inches. Gauge is not critical for this project.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- tr = treble crochet
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sl st = slip stitch
- sk = skip
- sp(s) = space(s)
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
Scrubbie:
With 2 strands of yarn held together, Ch 12. If you will be making a top flap/pocket for your fingers, leave a long tail for sewing.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (11 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (tr in next st, sc in next st) across. (6 sc, 5 tr)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 sts, (tr in next st, sc in next st) across to last st, sc in last st (7 sc, 4 tr)
Row 5: Repeat row 3.
Rows 6-7: Repeat rows 2-3.
Your work should now measure approximately 3.25 inches x 4.25 inches. If you do not want to make the top flap/pocket, you can fasten off now and sew in the ends. Otherwise, do not fasten off.
Top flap (optional):
Rotate work so that you are working into the sides of the stitches along the short edge.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each row across (7 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in front loop only of each st across
Rows 3-8: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
Fold top flap over at row 2 (where you see the line of free loops from the front loop only stitches), so that right sides are together.
Use the long starting and ending tails to sew the flap into place, weaving in ends when done. Turn piece right-side-out.
I hope you enjoy the pattern – big thanks to MixedKreations & wilmalee for testing it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store, or as a on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches ‘N’ Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches ‘N’ Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Storm Clouds
Diagonal puff stitch gives this 14″ pillow a soft, plush texture, which works well with the heathered tones of the Lion Brand Heartland yarn. When completed, the 3 blocks of color form diagonal striping patterns that are distinctly different on the front and on the back. The construction also makes it easy to take the pillow form out for washing when needed.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Storm Clouds
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Materials:
- Lion Brand Heartland yarn:
- 175 yds Glacier Bay
- 250 yds Great Smoky Mountains
- 250 yds Mount Ranier
- Size I / 9 (5.5 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn or tapestry needle
- Locking stitch markers or safety pins
- 14″ square pillow form
Difficulty:
Intermediate – Diagonal puff stitch (a variation of diagonal box stitch) with no shaping and simple assembly.
Size:
14 inch square
Gauge:
12.5 dc x 6.5 rows = 4″. Each “box” of the diagonal box stitch should be just under 1 inch.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- puff = puff stitch (see Special Stitch)
- YO = yarn over
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Special Stitch:
Puff Stitch (puff): YO, insert hook into specified stitch or space, draw up a loop to the same height as your current row. Repeat this 5 more times in the same stitch or space, for a total of 13 loops. YO and draw through all 13 loops. Finish with a slip stitch to close.
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
Section 1 (increasing):
Note: In this section, each row will have one more “box” than the previous row.
Row 1 (WS): With Glacier Bay: ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, puff in next ch, dc in last ch. (1 box)
Row 2: Ch 6, turn, dc in 4th ch from hook, puff in next ch, dc in next ch, sl st in ch-3 sp from next box, ch 3, (dc, puff, dc) in same sp. (2 boxes)
Rows 3-16: Ch 6, turn, dc in 4th ch from hook, puff in next ch, dc in next ch, *sl st in ch 3 sp from next box, ch 3, (dc, puff, dc) in same sp, repeat from * in each box across. (16 boxes on row 16)
Note: The width of each straight edge should now be approximately 14 inches.
Section 2 (neither increasing nor decreasing):
Note: In this section, each row will have 16 boxes. This extends the piece to make it a rectangle instead of a square.
Row 17: Ch 6, turn, dc in 4th ch from hook, puff in next ch, dc in next ch, *sl st in ch 3 sp from next box, ch 3, (dc, puff, dc) in same sp, repeat from * in each box across to last box, sl st in ch 3 sp from last box.
Row 18: Ch 3, turn, *sl st in ch 3 sp from next box, ch 3, (dc, puff, dc) in same sp, repeat from * in each box across, changing to Great Smoky Mountains at the end of the row.
Row 19: With Great Smoky Mountains: Ch 6, turn, dc in 4th ch from hook, puff in next ch, dc in next ch, *sl st in ch 3 sp from next box, ch 3, (dc, puff, dc) in same sp, repeat from * in each box across to last box, sl st in ch 3 sp from last box.
Row 20: Ch 3, turn, *sl st in ch 3 sp from next box, ch 3, (dc, puff, dc) in same sp, repeat from * in each box across.
Rows 21-31: repeat rows 19 & 20 five times, then repeat row 19 once more.
Row 32: Ch 3, turn, sl st in ch 3 sp from next box, changing to Mount Ranier. With Mount Ranier: Ch 3, (dc, pucc, dc) in same sp, *sl st in ch 3 sp from next box, ch 3, (dc, puff, dc) in same sp, repeat from * in each box across.
Rows 33-38: Repeat rows 19 & 20 three times more. Mark last st on row 38 for edging
Note: Piece should now measure approximately 14 inches x 32 inches
Section 3 (decreasing):
Note: In this section, each row will have 1 fewer box than the previous row
Rows 39-52: Ch 3, turn, *sl st in ch 3 sp from next box, ch 3, (dc, puff, dc) in same sp, repeat from * in each box across to last box, sl st in ch 3 sp from last box. (2 boxes at the end of row 52)
Row 53: Ch 3, turn, sl st in ch 3 sp from first box, ch 3, (dc, puff, dc) in same sp, sl st in last box. (1 box).
Finishing: Ch 3, turn, sl st in ch 3 sp of adjacent box (corner), fasten off.
Edging:
- With RS facing, join Mount Rainier with sl st in marked stitch from Row 38.
- Working across long edge: Ch 3, sk first box, sl st in space before next box (see picture)
- (Ch 3, sk next box, sl st in space before next box) 6 times, change to Great Smoky Mountains.
- (Ch 3, sk next box, sl st in space before next box) 13 times, change to Glacier Bay
- (Ch 3, sk next box, sl st in space before next box) 17 times, ch 3, sl st in corner.
- Continuing across short edge: (Ch 3, sk next box, sl st in space before next box) 15 times, ch 3, sl st in corner, fasten off.
Note: You should now have a ch 3 space over every box around the entire edge.
Seaming / Finishing:
- Lay work flat, RS facing, with Mount Rainier on the top as shown below.
- Count 9 boxes up from the bottom on each side, and fold edge over. Then count 13 boxes down from the top and fold. (see fold lines on color chart). This should leave a square of 16 x 16 boxes on the front. On the back, the top and bottom edges should overlap by 6 boxes. Use stitch markers or safety pins to hold the edges in place. Make sure the ch 3 sps along front and back edges line up.
- Working through all layers, join any color with sl st in corner. Ch 1, 3 sc in each ch sp across, fasten off. Repeat for the other side.
- Weave in all ends, turn pillow right side out and insert pillow form.
I hope you enjoy the pattern! Special thanks to Alexandra of Eye Love Knots for testing the pattern!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store for a $1 fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Bruges Lace Napkin Ring
Follow my blog with BloglovinIf you’ve never done Bruges lace, this pattern is a great introduction! Before you start, be sure to check out my new Bruges Lace tutorial. Basic Bruges lace is really nothing more than the stitches you already know, with lots of chain spaces and slip stitches to create interlocking loops. These chain spaces create the beautiful lacy effect. Make yourself a set of these quick, easy, and elegant napkin rings for your holiday table this year!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Bruges Lace Napkin Ring
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Materials:
- Size 10 crochet thread – 10-20 yds for each napkin ring
- Size 3 (2.1 mm) crochet hook or size needed to achieve gauge
- Embroidery/Tapestry needle
- Cardboard tube from paper towel or toilet paper roll (for blocking)
- Pins (for blocking)
- Liquid starch or fabric stiffener
- Wax paper (to cover cardboard tube)
Difficulty:
Easy to Intermediate – mostly basic stitches, the only potentially difficult part is joining the chain spaces, particularly at the ends.
Size:
Approx 5″ circumference
Gauge:
Gauge is not critical – after row 6, work should measure about 2″ long.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Tutorial:
Notes:
- Pattern is provided in both chart and written form – they are the same pattern.
- Blocking is VERY important for this project. Be sure to block your work.
- Want to make this a hair tie instead? Thread some decorative elastic through the spaces in the middle, and sew it in place under the curved end so it doesn’t show. It’s still important to block it, to open up the lace, but you can skip the fabric stiffener or starch.
Instructions:
Row 1 (WS): Ch 8, dc in 6th ch from hook and in last 2 chs (3 dc, 1 ch loop)
Rows 2-10: Ch 5, turn, dc in each st across (3 dc, 1 ch loop)
Row 11: Ch 5, turn, sc in first st, hdc in next st, dc in last st
Row 12: Ch 7, turn, dc in first st, hdc in next st, sc in last st
Row 13: Ch 2, sl st in ch loop from row 11, ch 2, turn, sc in first st, hdc in next st, dc in last st
Row 14: Ch 5, turn, dc in first st, hdc in next st, sc in last st
Row 15: Repeat row 13
Row 16: Repeat row 12
Row 17: Repeat row 13
Row 18: Repeat row 2
Row 19: Ch 2, sl st in ch loop from row 9, ch 2, turn, dc in each st across
Row 20: Repeat row 2
Row 21: Ch 2, sl st in ch loop from row 7, ch 2, turn, dc in each st across
Row 22: Repeat row 2
Row 23: Ch 2, sl st in ch loop from row 5, ch 2, turn, dc in each st across
Row 24: Repeat row 2
Row 25: Ch 2, sl st in ch loop from row 3, ch 2, turn, dc in each st across
Row 26: Repeat row 2
Row 27: Ch 2, sl st in ch loop from row 1, ch 2, turn, dc in each st across
Row 28: Repeat row 2
Row 29: Repeat row 11
Row 30: Ch 3, sl st in ch loop from row 16, ch 3, turn, dc in first st, hdc in next st, sc in last st
Row 31: Ch 2, sl st in ch loop from row 29, ch 2, turn, sc in first st, hdc in next st, dc in last st
Row 32: Ch 2, sl st in ch loop from row 14, ch 2, turn, dc in first st, hdc in next st, sc in last st
Row 33: Repeat row 31
Row 34: Ch 3, sl st in ch loop from row 12, ch 3, turn, dc in first st, hdc in next st, sc in last st
Row 35: Repeat row 31
Row 36: Repeat row 2
Joining: Turn, working through sts from row 36 and foundation ch from row 1, sl st in each st across. Fasten off, weave in ends. Turn to right side before blocking.
Blocking:
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Poinsettia bottle cozy
Need a last minute gift or a hostess gift? Slip a nice bottle of wine into this lovely cozy, and you’re ready to go! While it was designed for wine bottles, the pattern includes instructions to make it somewhat wider, narrower, taller, or shorter as needed, so it can easily be adjusted to fit bubble bath, bath salts, olive oil, or other similarly shaped bottles!
This pattern involves some advanced techniques, particularly the colorwork. The border rows are done with alternating colors every stitch, and the main flower pattern is charted and done in the round. I have marked it as an experienced skill level pattern because of these techniques, but it could be a good challenge for an intermediate crocheter as well.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern listing either on Ravelry or on Craftsy. Click here for copyright information.
Poinsettia Bottle Cozy
Materials:
- Worsted weight yarn
- Cream – 100 yds
- Red – 50 yds
- Green – 25 yds
- Yellow – small amount for center of flower, as desired.
- US size H/8 (5.00 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Skill Level:
Experienced – Uses back post stitches, working in the round, and charted colorwork.
Size:
Approximately 3.25” (base diameter) x 10” (height)
Gauge:
Rounds 1-3 should measure 3” in diameter.
Abbreviations used:
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- bphdc = back post half double crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sl st = slip stitch
- sp(s) = space(s)
- sk = skip
Notes:
- For a narrower or wider bottle, try using a smaller or larger hook – for a very narrow bottle you may want to try a lighter weight yarn as well. The first three rounds of the pattern should give you a circle that is just slightly larger than the base of your bottle.
- For a shorter bottle, you can skip some or all of the following rounds as needed. Be sure to skip entire sets of rows as grouped here (basically an even number of rounds on each end), or your right side / wrong side will be off.
- Rnds 7, 8, 30, & 31 (the striped borders and one adjacent rnd on each side)
- Rnds 9, 10, 28, & 29 (between borders and flowers)
- Rnds 34 & 39 (one round below cord, one above)
- Rnds 35 & 38 (another one round below cord and one above)
- For a taller bottle, you can add rnds of sc in any of the plain cream areas – just be sure to add an even number of rnds on each side of the center.
- For best results when changing colors, make the change in the last step of the previous stitch.
- For rnds 5 – 31, if you find it easier, you can work back and forth in rows instead, and then sew the side seam up and sew the bottom on before starting rnd 32.
- When working the charted section (Rnds 11 – 27):
- Try not to carry one color of yarn behind another – use a different ball for each color section.
- Technically, the odd numbered (right side) rows should be worked from right to left and even numbered (wrong side) rows should be worked from left to right. In this case though, it doesn’t matter – the pattern is symmetrical so it is the same going either way.
- Remember to turn at the end of each row, otherwise the stitches will not line up properly.
- Green squares have a dot in the center for those who have trouble distinguishing the colors.
Recommended Resources:
-
How to Change Colors in the Middle of a Row by Moogly: This is my preferred method for color changes, and can be done at the end of a round as well, in the slip stitch used for joining.
- Color Change Tutorial – by Sincerely Pam: This shows an alternate option for color changes
- Crochet Cord with Two Colors by Pattern Paradise: An alternate way to make the cord.
- How to crochet with 2 colors, stranding by FreshStitches: Use this technique for Rnds 7 & 31
- Basic Intarsia Tutorial by Crochet Ever After: Use this technique for the charted section.
Base:
Leading ch 3 counts as dc throughout.
Rnd 1 (RS): Work 12 dc into a magic circle, pull circle closed and join with sl st to first dc, turn. (12 dc)
OR Alternate Rnd 1: Ch 4, 11 dc inside circle, join with sl st to top of ch 3, turn. (12 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2dc in each st around, join with sl st to top of ch 3, turn. (24 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) 11 times, dc in last st, join with sl st to top of ch 3, turn. (36 dc)
Rnd 4: (Ch3, sk next st, sl st in next st) 18 times, fasten off. (18 ch 3 loops)
Body:
Hold base so that RS is facing you. Join cream with sl st around post of any dc from Rnd 3, as though working a back post stitch (working yarn should be in the back) – see Fig 1.
Rnd 5 (RS): Ch 2 (counts as bphdc), bphdc around each st from Rnd 3, join with sl st (36 bphdc), turn.
Rnd 6: Ch 1, (sc2tog, sc in next 16 sts) twice, join with sl st, turn.(34 sts)
Rnd 7: With green, ch 3, switching to red in 3rd ch, (with red, dc in next st, switching to green, with green, dc in next st, switching to red) 16 times, with red, dc in next st, switching to green, with green, join to top of ch 3, switching to cream, turn.
Rnds 8-10: With cream, Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st, turn.
Rnds 11-27: Using colors as indicated on the chart (Fig 2), sc in each st, join with sl st at end of rnd, turn.
Rnds 28-30: Repeat rnds 8-10, switching to green at the end of rnd 30.
Rnd 31: Repeat Rnd 7
Rnds 32 – 33: With cream, ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st, turn.
Rnd 34: Ch 3, sk next st, [(dc, ch1, dc) in next st, sk next 2 sts] 10 times, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next st, sk last st, join with sl st to top of ch 3, turn
Rnd 35: Sc in each st and ch sp around, join with sl st, turn (34 sc)
Rnds 36-37: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st, fasten off.
Finishing:
- With yellow, embroider stamen as desired in the middle of each flower. The picture shown on page 1 was done using cross stitches with 2 strands of yellow held together. French knots are another good option. You can also sew or glue on small beads or buttons if you prefer.
- Holding red and green together, chain 100 and fasten off. Weave drawstring in and out between V stitches on rnd 34, with the ends meeting around the first ch 3 on that rnd. Trim cord ends like a tassel or sew them in.
- Sew in all ends
I hope you enjoy the pattern! An ad-free, downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store for a $1 fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
If you would like to receive notifications of new posts and patterns as they become available, please follow this blog. You can follow by e-mail (look at the sidebar on the right for the follow by email option), or via RSS feed.
Free Pattern – Snowman Ornament with a Bowtie and Fez
This crazy snowman looks cool in his brown jacket, bowtie, and fez. Yes, a fez. I imagine he’s a Shriner…or maybe he picked it up as a souvenir on a visit to the middle east. Snowmen need vacations too you know! Either way, the fez hides a secret – behind it, there is a small loop for an ornament hook.
The pattern calls for fingering weight yarn and size 10 crochet thread, to make an ornament that is about 3 inches tall. You can easily use the pattern to make a larger snowman if you like, simply by using thicker yarns.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Snowman Ornament
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Materials:
- Fingering weight yarn – 10-15 yds white
- Size 10 crochet thread
- 5-10 yds Red
- 5-10 yds brown
- 5 yds black
- US size D / 2 (3.25 mm) hook
- US size 4 (2.00 mm) steel hook
- Yarn needle
- Stitch markers, safety pins, or scrap pieces of yarn.
- Fabric Stiffener
Difficulty:
Intermediate – Several pieces and small gauge. Techniques include magic circle, and working in the round.
Size:
About 3 inches tall
Gauge:
Bottom half of snowman, without edging, should be 1.5” in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together
- sc3tog = single crochet 3 stitches together
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sl st = slip stitch
- sk = skip
Notes:
- To start the snowman, the magic circle technique is recommended. If you don’t know or prefer not to use this technique, you can use the alternate option instead.
- Mark the 1st stitch of each round, moving the marker each time you start a new round.
- The edges of each piece may curl slightly. This is ok, the fabric stiffener will help it flatten out.
Recommended Resources:
- Magic Circle (photo & video) by Articles of a Domestic Goddess
- Magic Circle or Finger Wrap (video) by Yarn Obsession
- Using the Running Stitch for Attaching Amigurumi (photo) by Freshstitches
- Changing yarn or color (video) by Yarn Obsession
Snowman:
Using larger hook, and white yarn
Bottom:
Rnd 1: Make a magic loop, ch 1, 6 sc inside magic loop, join with sl st to first sc. Pull magic loop closed.
OR
Alternate Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6sc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st to first sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2sc in each st, join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, (2sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times, join with sl st to first sc. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in first sc (2sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 7 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, (2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times, join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. (30 sc)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in first 2 sc (2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 7 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc. (36 sc)
Top:
Repeat rounds 1-5 of Bottom, fasten off, leaving a 6 inch tail for sewing. Sew top to bottom over 4 stitches.
Edging:
Join white with sc at very top of head, ch6, sc in next st and in each st around outside edge of snowman. join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off (58 sc, 1 ch 6 loop)
Bowtie (make 1):
Using smaller hook, and red thread:
Row 1: Ch 4, leaving an 8 inch tail. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn. (3sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc 3tog, turn. (1 st)
Row 3: Ch 1, 3sc in next st, turn. (3sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each st across, fasten off, leaving an 8 inch tail.
Finishing: With needle, sew both ends into the center of the bow, in the same way as you would to hide the ends. Holding both ends together, wrap them around the middle of the bow twice, tuck the ends under the wraps, and pull tightly to secure.
Fez (make 1):
Using smaller hook, and red thread:
Row 1: Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (7 sc)
Rows 2-7: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn
Row 8: Ch 1, sk next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sl st in last st, fasten off. (3 sts). Mark this row as right side.
Tassel: Using smaller hook, and black thread: Join black with sl st at center top of hat, leaving at least a 3 inch starting tail. Ch 3, fasten off,. Sew starting tail through chain so that it comes out at the end of the last ch. Tie both tails in a knot and trim ends to desired tassel length.
Jacket (make 2):
Using smaller hook, and brown thread:
Row 1: Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (7 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts, turn. (7 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next 5 sts, turn. (6 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts, turn. (5 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts (3 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in last st, fasten off. (2 sts)
Finishing:
Using the photo as a guide:
- With black thread, embroider facial features and buttons.
- Sew bowtie, fez and jacket onto snowman.
- Follow directions on fabric stiffener bottle to stiffen and flatten finished piece.
I hope you enjoy the pattern! An ad-free, downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store for a $1 fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Granny’s Crochet Coasters Pattern
Add a touch of lace to your table with a set of lovely, crochet coasters. They’re just like my Granny used to make!
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My Granny’s crochet coasters
My Granny was a talented crocheter and loved to work with fine threads. One of my mother’s prized possessions was a set of crochet coasters that Granny had made. They were always on our coffee table, though we knew better than to actually use them!
Granny lived half a world away, in India, so I only met her a few times. I always felt close to her though, thanks to the stories my parents told. In her last few years, we had started communicating by letters (yes, real snail mail.)
A set of my own
When I was getting married, relatives asked what I would like as a wedding gift. I told one relative that I would have loved a set of those coasters, but that I didn’t want to ask Granny. Her eyes had gotten pretty bad, and I knew that thread work would be a struggle.
They told me she would be thrilled just to know that I wanted them. So the request was passed on, despite my hesitation, and I now have my very own set! As far as I know, these were her original design.
Crochet coasters pattern
Using her coasters as a guide, I made a copy and wrote this pattern. In the picture below, the coaster on the right is Granny’s, and the coaster on the left is my copy.
My tension is a little looser and she may have used a different weight thread, but overall, I think it’s a pretty close replica!
Crochet coaster base
Granny used 3.5-inch diameter glass circles as the base for her crochet coasters. Her gauge was impossibly tiny and 4-inch circles are easier to find. So I designed mine for 4-inch circles.
Granny’s bases were 1/16 inch thick, but anything up to 1/8 inch will work. Clear acrylic, mirrored, or solid-colored circles of other materials work well too.
Materials
- Thread: 50 yds size 20 crochet thread
- Hook: Size 10 (1.3 mm) crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Tapestry needle
- 4″ diameter glass or acrylic circle; 1/16 – 1/8 inch thick
Project Level
Intermediate: Lace pattern worked in the round with fine thread.
Size
4 inches diameter
Gauge
Use pattern as gauge swatch.
After round 4, work should measure 2.25 inches in diameter, from point to point.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet
- dtr = double treble crochet
- sc = single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- tr = treble crochet
Instructions:
Scroll down for chart
Join rnds where indicated with sl st in first st, unless otherwise specified.
Center Flower
Ch 6, join with sl st in 1st ch to make a circle.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, [sc, ch 7] 7 times in circle, sc in circle, ch 4, dc in first sc (ch 4 and dc counts as ch-7 sp). (8 sc, 8 ch-7 sps)
Rnd 2: ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in same ch-7 sp, [ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next ch-7 sp] 7 times, ch 1, join. (16 sc, 8 ch-3 sps, 8 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 3: Skipping all sts, sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in same sp, [ch 2, sc in next ch 1 sp, ch 2, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in next ch 3 sp] 7 times, ch 2, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2, join. (32 dc, 8 sc, 8 ch-3 sps, 16 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 4: Sl st in next dc and in first ch-3 sp, ch 4 (counts as tr), (2 tr, ch 3, 3 tr) in same sp, [ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next sc, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, (3 tr, ch 3, 3 tr) in next ch 3 sp] 7 times, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next sc, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, join. (48 tr, 8 ch-3 sps, 16 ch-2 sps)
Border
Rnd 5: Sl st in each of next 2 trs and in first ch-3 sp, ch 5 (counts as dtr), (dtr, ch 3, 2 dtr) in same sp, working only in ch-3 sps and sk all other sts and sps, [ch 7, (2 dtr, ch 3, 2 dtr) in next ch 3 sp] 7 times, ch 7, join. (16 dtr, 8 ch-1 sps, 8 ch-7 sps)
Rnd 6: Sl st in next dtr and in first ch-3 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in same sp, skipping all sts, [9 dc in 4th ch of next ch 7 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch- 3 sp] 7 times, 9 dc in 4th ch of next ch 7 sp, join. (120 dc, 8 ch-3 sps)
Some curling is expected on rnds 7-9.
Rnd 7: Sl st in each of next 2 dc and in first ch-3 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same sp, [sk next 3 dc, dc in each of next 9 dc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp] 7 times, sk next 3 dc, dc in each of next 9 dc, join. (104 dc, 8 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 8: Sl st in next dc and in first ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as a dc), (sk next 2 dc, dc in each of next 9 dc, sk next 2 dc, dc in next ch-1 sp) 7 times, sk next 2 dc, dc in each of next 9 dc, join. (80 dc)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st in first sc, fasten off.
Finishing:
Weave in all ends.
Wash and block.
Insert base into crochet.
Granny’s Crochet Coasters Charts
Full Chart
Repeating Chart
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I hope you enjoyed this crochet coasters pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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