Cute Crochet Monster Pattern – Wittle Wubble

Meet my new friend, Wittle Wubble! This cute crochet monster has long arms for hugging, hanging, and getting into all sorts of mischief. Make a Wittle Wubble friend of your very own, or give one as a gift. They have a little pocket that’s perfect for hiding treasures (and gift cards too)!

Wittle Wubble Crochet Monster - free pattern on Stitches n Scraps

This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.

This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.

How this cute crochet monster got their name

What do you do when you a monster needs a name, but you can’t think of one? Ask some of the coolest kids you know to name it for you! I asked my friend Jessie of Jessie at Home to check with her kids. Vero came up with the name Wubble, and Kyla agreed. I think it’s perfect!

Wittle Wubble Crochet Monster at a table with a plate of mini cupcakes

Wittle Wubble is a monster after all, and can’t help but get into lots of twouble!

Made With Love

Yarnspirations has sent me Red Heart With Love Yarn for several projects over the last couple of years, and I have a lot leftover. These colors seemed just perfect for a cute crochet monster!

Wittle Wubble with a crochet hook in their pocket

The main color is #1907 Boysenberry, and the pocket is #1803 Blue Hawaii. I’m not actually sure what brand the white yarn is as I only had a little ball, but there is #1001 White available in With Love as well.

Fairfield PolyFil

I also have bags of PolyFil stuffing that Fairfield has sent me for various projects. To make this cute crochet monster even more cuddly, I used Ultra Plush PolyFil. It’s so squishably soft!

Ultra Plush Poly-Fil from Fairfield World

Wittle Wubble the Crochet Monster

4-medium
Project level Intermediate

Add this to your Ravelry queue

Materials

  • Yarn: Red Heart With Love 100% acrylic, worsted weight yarn
    • 175 yds #1907 Boysenberry (A)
    • 20 yds #1803 Blue Hawaii (B)
    • 5 yds #1001 White (C)
  • Hook: Size H-8 / 5 mm hook or size needed to match gauge
  • Notions:

Project Level

Intermediate: Worked in rows and rounds, front post stitches, increases and decreases, sewing multiple pieces together.

Size

Approximately 13 inches tall, not counting ears.

Gauge

13 sc x 14 rows = 4 inches.

Use pattern as gauge swatch – Pocket should measure 3 x 2.5 inches.

Abbreviations used

(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
dec = decrease (see Special Stitches)
fpsc = front post single crochet
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
rnd = round
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side

Special Stitches

Decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of next st, and then into the front loop only of the following stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, then sc in both loops of same st. This counts as two stitches in the end of round stitch counts.

See this tutorial for a more detailed look.

Almost Invisible SC Increase - Stitches n Scraps

Instructions

Pocket

With B, ch 11

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (10 sc)

Rows 2-9: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (10 sc)

Fasten off leaving an 18 inch tail for sewing.

Weave in starting tail.

Measuring the pocket for gauge

Pocket should measure about 3 inches wide by 2.25 inches tall.

Bottom

With A, ch 12.

Join rounds where indicated with a sl st in the first st of the round. Do not turn unless indicated.

Rnd 1 (RS): 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each of next 9 chs, 3 sc in last ch, working into the bottom of the chain sc in each of next 9 chs, join. (24 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each of first 3 sts, sc in each of next 9 sts, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in each of last 9 sts, join. (30 sc)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] twice, sc in each of next 10 sts, [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, sc in each of last 9 sts, join. (36 sc)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, [sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] twice, sc in each of next 11 sts, [2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts] 3 times, sc in each of last 9 sts, join. (42 sc)

Rnd 5: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, [sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] twice, sc in each of next 12 sts, [2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts] 3 times, sc in each of last 9 sts, join. (48 sc)

Do not fasten off.

Oval shaped bottom of monster

Edging

Rnd 6: Ch 1, fpdc around each st around, join. (48 fpdc)

Rnd 1 of bottom edging

Notice that since we worked post stitches, the tops of the stitches from rnd 5 are unused. Those tops are where we will join later to work the body.

The RS of the bottom will be turned upside down so that it’s visible on the bottom of the monster. The edging then hangs, upside down, below the body. This turning over is what makes Rnd 6 a wrong side rnd.

The picture above shows the RS of the bottom, with Rnd 1 of the edging. In the picture below, the bottom has been turned over so that you see the RS of the edging and the unused loops from Rnd 5.

Rnd 7 (RS): Turn, sk first st, [sc in next st, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next st] around, placing the last sl st in the skipped st at the beginning of the rnd. (12 shells)

Bottom of monster with edging

Fasten off and weave in all ends on bottom.

Most of the rest of the pattern is worked in continuous rounds – do not join or turn unless specified. Mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker.

Legs and Feet (Make 2)

Heel:

With A, ch 2 or make a magic circle

Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook or in magic circle, join, close magic circle if applicable. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around, join. (9 sc)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in each of first 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around, join. (12 sc)

Do not fasten off.

Finished heel for monster

Toe:

Continuing from heel:

Rnd 1: Sc in each of first 6 sc, ch 3, skip remaining 6 sc, join. (6 sc)

Rnd 1 of toe, showing chain and skipped stitches

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st and ch around. (9 sc)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, dec, [sc in next st, dec] around. (6 sc)

Fasten off. Use tail to sew toe closed, and then weave in ends on toe and heel.

Finished heel and toe

Leg:

With RS facing, join A with sl st in first skipped st on rnd 3 of heel

Join in first skipped stitch on heel

Rnd 1: Sc in each of first 6 sc, sc in corner where heel meets toe, sc in bottom of each of the 3 chs from the toe, sc in corner. (11 sc)

pick up stitch in corner

Rnd 2: Sc in each of next 6 sts, dec, sc in next st, dec. (9 sc)

Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (9 sc)

Weave in starting tail for leg.

Rnds 4-17: Repeat rnd 3.

Finished leg without stuffing

Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch tail for sewing.

Stuff leg and foot lightly, leaving the last 1 inch unstuffed at the top.

Attach Legs

Pinch top of leg flat, perpendicular to the foot. When the pinched edge is laying flat, foot should be sticking up.

Flatten top of leg so toe is sticking up

Position flattened edge of leg against RS of bottom, so that it lines up along one end of rnd 1. Fix it in place with stitch markers.

Line up leg with rnd 1 of bottom

Once you are satisfied with the positioning, sew legs into place using a whipstitch: In a circular motion, bring the needle through the stitches of the bottom, then back up and through both layers of the leg.

Whipstitch leg to bottom

Remove stitch markers once leg is attached. Attach 2nd leg in the same way, on the opposite side of rnd 1 of bottom. Be sure that both toes are pointing in the same direction.

Attach 2nd leg to other end of rnd 1

Weave in any remaining tails.

Body:

With RS facing, join A with a sl st in the top of any stitch from rnd 5 of bottom.

Join in unused loops from bottom

Rnds 1-20: Sc in each st around. (48 sts)

Monster body and legs

Weave in starting tail.

Rnd 21: (Sc in next 6 sts, dec) around. (42 sts)

Rnd 22: Sc in each st around. (42 sts)

Rnd 23: (Sc in next 5 sts, dec) around. (36 sts)

Rnd 24: Sc in each st around. (36 sts)

Rnd 25: (Sc in next 4 sts, dec) around. (30 sts)

Rnd 26: (Sc in next 3 sts, dec) around. (24 sts)

Rnd 27: (Sc in next 2 sts, dec) around. (18 sts)

Body and partial head ready for stuffing

Stuff body and head moderately, but do not overstuff. You should not be able to see the stuffing through the stitches.

Rnd 28: (Sc in next st, dec) around. (12 sts)

Rnd 27: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off, use tail to sew top of head closed and then weave in ends.

Monster head body and legs

Arms (make 2):

With A, ch 2 or make a magic circle

Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook or in magic circle, close magic circle if applicable. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] around. (9 sc)

Rnds 3-5: Sc in each st around.

Weave in starting tail.

Rnds 6-25: Sc in each st around.

Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch tail for sewing.

Stuff arms lightly, leaving the top 1 inch unstuffed.

stuffed arms

Ears (make 2):

With A, ch 2 or make a magic circle

Rnd 1 (RS): 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook or in magic circle, close magic circle if applicable. (3 sc)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (6 sc)

Rnd 3: Sc in each st around.

Rnd 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] around. (9 sc)

Rnd 5: Repeat rnd 3

Rnd 6: [2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts] around. (12 sc)

Rnd 7: Repeat rnd 3

Rnd 8: Sc in each st around, join.

Row 9: Turn, sc in each of first 6 sts, sl st in next st, leave remaining sts unworked. (6 sc)

Row 10: Turn, sk sl st, sc in each of next 5 sts, sl st in last st. (5 sc)

Row 11: Turn, sk sl st, sc in each of next 4 sts, sl st in last st. (4 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch tail for sewing.

Weave in starting tail.

Monster ear

Eyes (make 2):

With A, ch 2 or make a magic circle

Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook or in magic circle, join, close magic circle if applicable. (6 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch tail for sewing.

Weave in starting tails.

Eyes

Assembly

Pin pieces in place as indicated using stitch markers or pins. Remove the pins or markers once the piece has been sewn on.

Sew all seams securely so that little hands can’t pull them apart. I recommend going back over each seam a second time, in the opposite direction.

Pocket

Lay body flat so that feet are pointing up. Place the pocket RS up on the body, so that it is centered between the legs. The last row of the pocket should be on top, and the bottom edge of the pocket should rest just above the bottom edging. Pin pocket into place.

Pin pocket into place

Sew pocket to body using a whipstitch around the side and bottom edges. Leave the top edge open.

Sew on pocket

Weave in end from pocket.

Ears

Flatten ears so that row 11 is folded in half, creating a single curved edge along the bottom.

Fold ear flat to create a smooth curve

Pin ears in place on head so that the curve follows the curve of the head. When you are happy with the placement, sew ears in place with a whipstitch.

Sew on ear

Weave in ends from ears.

Arms

Flatten top of arms and pin into place, centered below the ears. Sew to body using a whipstitch.

Pin arm into place

Weave in ends from arms.

Face

Place eyes on head using the picture as a guide. Sew eyes in place with a back stitch or running stitch, just under the tops of the crochet stitches.

Sew eye on under tops of stitches

With B, make a small stitch at the center of each eye.

Finished eyes

With C, embroider the mouth. I used stem stitch, but backstitch is also a good option.

stem stitch mouth

Weave in all remaining ends.

Give your cute crochet monster a big hug to even out all the stuffing (and because hugs are awesome).

Wittle Wubble Crochet Monster - free pattern on Stitches n Scraps

Rate this cute crochet monster pattern!


I hope you enjoyed this cute crochet monster pattern. 

A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.