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Free Pattern – For Emily — 30 Comments

    • POINTS!!!! first guess and it’s absolutely right! 🙂 That’s one of my favorite songs and the whole time I was making this it just made me think of it. I can picture her wearing this while they walked “on frosted fields of juniper and lamplight”

  1. I’m curious if you’ve tried one without a collar. I want to try one, but am looking for a little more casual. Love your work though!

    • I have not done it, but I think you totally could. Start like this (I’m starting with row 6 to match the rest of the row numbers):

      Row 6: Work 65 fsc, turn OR
      Alternate Row 6: Ch 66 LOOSELY, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (65 sc)

      Row 7: Ch 3, 2dc in same st, dc in next 31 sts, (dc, ch 2, 2dc) in next st, dc in next 31 sts, 2dc in last st, turn. (70 sts).

      Then continue from Rnd 8 as written. This will leave you with a tiny little V shaped slit at the collar, but I think that will still look nice.

      If you don’t want that slit at the collar, try this instead:

      Rnd 6: Work 64 fsc, join OR
      Alternate Rnd 6: Ch 65 LOOSELY, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, join, turn. (64 sc)

      Rnd 7: Ch 3, 2dc in same st, dc in next 31 sts, (dc, ch 2, 2dc) in next st, dc in next 31 sts, 2dc in first st, ch 2, join, turn. (70 sts).

      Rnd 8: Work as for Rnd 9. (76 sts)

      Continue with Rnd 9 as written.

  2. I am a beginner… the main poncho is worked in rounds, but every rows’ instructions say to join and turn. I don’t understand the turning? Can I not just keep going around? Thanks!!

    • Working in rounds does not necessarily mean working in CONTINUOUS rounds (which is what you’re thinking of). You can work in the round by joining and turning at each round, or by working continuously around. Both methods have their pluses and minuses. Working in continuous rounds causes the rounds to shift a half a stitch with every round (see more info here: http://stitchesnscraps.com/tutorial-why-continuous-rounds-shift/), which is why for something like this, I prefer to join and turn. Just join the rounds with a slip stitch as indicated, then turn and work back in the other direction 🙂

      • Ah ha! I get it – thank you so much for taking the time to explain. I have about 9 rounds done, but I fear I am not doing the end of round Chain 2, join and turn, and then the beginning of round slip stitch Chain 3 combo correctly since I seem to have two holes instead of one in the joined area. Any idea what I am doing wrong?

  3. Thank you so much for the quick reply – I pulled that image down. Now I guess I need to doing a whole lot of frogging. I appreciate your help!

    • before you frog…..if you have a long enough starting tail, you MAY be able to fix it when sewing the tail in….just sew the loose dc to the one next to it, that should close the gap. You may want to try that and see how it looks before frogging it all

  4. Hi I will be making this for a rather large person in order to make it even larger how many stitches would I need as a repeat. Not sure how to state this.

  5. Hi Emily,
    This pattern is beautiful and I’m making it as a birthday present for my daughter-in-law. I’m relatively new to crocheting and have read quite a bit to try to understand how to read a chart as well as to read instructions in parenthesis and brackets. Nevertheless, I’m struggling with Line 3A. I have completed one repetition beginning with [Ch3 and ending with ….heart in next st)5 times]. If I’m reading this correctly, the next repetition would begin with [Chain 3 and end…heart in next st)] until I had completed a total of 5 cycles. However, the chart seems to show the repetition beginning with 2dc followed by 4 chain then 2dc and a chain. Please help me understand how to create the repetition . What is the next instruction following the first repetition?

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