For Emily PonchoThis unique poncho is worked in one piece, from the top down. It has a folded down shirt collar, and a folded up bottom hem, both with a border of little hearts. I have to give a great big thank you to my friend Annie, who convinced me to try the folded up hem!

For Emily - One size fits most

The “one size fits most” design makes this a great pattern for gifting. All the women shown here are wearing the exact same piece. It’s hard not to want to keep it for yourself though!

Update: You can see in the comments that someone was able to guess where the name came from, and why I chose it 🙂


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For Emily

4-medium
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Materials:

Difficulty:

Intermediate – Increases, decreases, working in the round, and changing colors. Most of the pattern is fairly easy, but the heart stitch rows can be a little tricky on the first try. Charts are provided for these two sections.

Size:

Adult, one size fits most.

Gauge:

12 dc x 7 rows = approximately 4″ square. Row 6 (the narrowest point) should be about 22” long.

Abbreviations used:

  • RS = right side
  • ch = chain
  • sc = single crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sk = skip
  • sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together
  • dc2tog = doube crochet 2 stitches together
    dc3tog = double crochet 3 stitches together
    long dc = long double crochet – see special stitches
    heart = heart stitch – see special stitches

Special Stitches:

  • Heart Stitch (heart): Work (2dc, ch1, 2dc) all in the same st.
  • Long double crochet (long dc): Work the same as a normal dc, except when you draw up a loop, pull it up a little bit higher than normal so that your stitches come out to the height of the current row.

Notes:

  • Because the collar and hem are flipped over, the right and wrong sides will change. On the collar and hem, the odd numbered rows are RS rows. On the main part of the poncho, the even numbered rows are the RS rows.
  • Stitch counts shown do not include the corner chain 2 spaces.
  • Starting ch 3 counts as first dc. Starting ch 1 or ch 2 does NOT count as a stitch.
  • Charts are provided for the collar and hem sections for the sake of clarity. Both the written instructions and charts these sections are the same – you should only work one or the other (either written or charted) for each section, not both.
  • In row 3b of the collar and rnd 53b of the hem, the long dc stitches are worked over the red chains, so that the red chains are hidden within the dc stitches.
  • If you would like to make the poncho longer, you can add rounds between rounds 43 & 44. Be sure to add them in sets of 4 (repeats of rnds 10 – 13).
  • For advanced crocheters – If you want to make changes, here are the multiples you will need to keep in mind (not counting the corner chain spaces):
    • Row 1 has a multiple of 12 + 10 stitches, so the starting chain is a multiple of 12 + 3.
    • Row 2 (to set up for the heart stitch row) should be a multiple of 12 + 5
    • Rnd 43 (to set up for the heart stitch round) should be a multiple of 12 + 4
    • Rnd 57 should have the same number of stitches as Rnd 43.

Recommended Resources:

Collar:

With Grey, ch 87

Row 1 (RS): Sc2tog in 2nd and 3rd chains from hook, sc in next 40 chs, sk next 2 chs, sc in next 40 chs, sc2tog in last 2 chains, turn. (82 sts).

Row 2: Ch 2, sk first st, dc in next 38 sts, dc2tog, ch 2 (corner), dc3tog, dc in next 36 sts, dc2tog, turn. Secure working loop with a stitch marker so it can’t pull out, and remove hook. (77 sts)

Row 3a: Skip first 4 sts, join red with sl st in 5th st. [Ch 3 (counts as dc, now and throughout), (dc, ch1, 2dc) in same sp, (ch 4, sk next 5 sts, heart in next st) 5 times], fasten off red – there should be 3 unworked sts left before the corner. Join red with sl st in the 5th st after the ch sp, repeat between [ ], fasten off red, leaving last 4 sts unworked. Do NOT turn. (12 hearts)

Row 3b: Pick up the grey loop that was set aside at the end of row 2.  Ch 2, sk first st, long dc in next 2 sts, [ch 1, sc in ch sp at top of heart, (ch 1, sk the dc just after the heart, working over the red chain, long dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, sc in ch sp at top of heart) 5 times, ch 1, sk the dc just after the heart], dc2tog being sure to draw the loops up to row height just like for the long dc, ch 2, sk ch sp, dc3tog being sure to draw the loops up to row height, repeat between [ ],dc in next st, dc2tog being sure to draw the loops up to row height, turn.

Row 4: Ch 2, sk first st, dc in next dc, dc in next ch sp, (dc in next sc, dc in next ch sp, dc in next 3dc, dc in next ch sp) 5 times, dc in next sc, dc2tog using the next ch sp and the following st, ch2, sk ch sp, (dc3tog using the next st, ch sp, and following st), (dc in next ch sp, dc in next 3 dc, dc in next ch sp, dc in next sc) 5 times,  dc in last ch sp, dc2tog, turn. (67 sts)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 31 sts, ch 2, sk ch sp, sc2tog, sc in next 30 sts, sc2tog changing to red, turn, fasten off grey. (64 sts)

Row 6: With red, ch 1, sc in next 32 sts, ch 2, sk ch sp, sc in next 32 sts changing to grey with last st, turn, fasten off red. Mark last st of this row for edging.

Symbol Key for charts

Chart for Collar

Click image for larger view

Poncho:

Row 7: With grey, and working in BLO: Ch 3, 2dc in same st, dc in next 31 sts, (dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch sp, dc in next 31 sts, 2dc in last st, turn (70 sts).

Rnd 8 (RS): Working in both loops as normal: Ch 3, 2dc in same st, dc in next 34 sts, (dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch sp, dc in next 34 sts, 2dc in last st, ch 2, join with sl st in top of starting ch 3 to begin working in rounds, turn. (76 sts)

Rnd 9: Sl st in ch sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in each st across to next ch sp, (dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch sp, dc in each st across, dc in same ch sp as start of rnd, ch 2, join, turn. (82 sts)

Rnd 10: Sl st in ch sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, [(ch 1, sk next st, dc in next 2 sts) across to last 2 sts before ch sp, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st], (dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch sp, repeat between [ ], dc in same ch sp as start of rnd, ch 2, join, turn. (60 sts)

Rnd 11: Sl st in corner ch sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in each ch 1 sp and in each dc across to next corner, (dc, ch 2, 2dc) in corner ch sp, dc in each ch 1 sp and in each dc across, dc in same corner ch sp as start of rnd, ch 2, join, turn. (94 sts)

Rnd 12-13: Sl st in ch sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in each st across to next ch sp, (dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch sp, dc in each st across, dc in same ch sp as start of rnd, ch 2, join, turn. (106 sts)

Rnds 14-43: Repeat rounds 10-13 seven more times, then repeat rounds 10 and 11 once more. (286 sts)

Rnd 44: Working in BLO: Sl st in corner ch sp, dc in 2nd ch of same ch sp, dc in each dc across to next corner, dc in next ch, ch 2, 2dc in next ch, dc in each st across, dc in first ch of same ch sp as start of rnd, ch 2, join, turn. (292 sts)

Rnd 45: Working in both loops as normal: Repeat Rnd 13. (298 sts)

Rnds 46-48: Repeat Rnds 10 – 12 of poncho. (316 sts)

Hem:

Rnd 49 (RS): Working in BLO: Sl st in corner ch sp, sl st in first sc, changing to red. Fasten off grey. With red, ch 1, [sc2tog, sc in each st across to corner, ch 2] sk ch sp, repeat between [ ], join, turn. (314 sts)

Rnd 50: Working in both loops as normal: Sl st in corner ch sp, sl st in first sc changing to grey. Fasten off red. With grey, ch 1, [sc2tog, sc in each st across to 2 sts before corner, sc2tog, ch 2], sk ch sp, repeat between [ ], join, turn. (310 sts)

Rnd 51: Sl st in corner ch sp, sl st in first st, ch 1, [sc in each st across to 2 sts before corner, sc2tog, ch 2], sk ch sp, repeat between [ ], join, turn. (308 sts)

Rnd 52: Sl st in corner ch sp, sl st in first st, ch 1, [sc2tog, sc in each st across to 2 sts before corner, sc2tog, ch 2], sk ch sp, repeat between [ ], join, turn. Secure working loop with a stitch marker so it can’t pull out, and remove hook. (304 sts)

Rnd 53a: Skip ch sp and first 3 sts, join red with sl st in 4th st. [Ch 3 (counts as dc, now and throughout), (dc, ch1, 2dc) in same sp, ch 4, sk next 5 sts, (heart in next st, ch 4, sk next 5 sts) 24 times], fasten off red – there should be 4 unworked sts left before the corner. Join red with sl st in the 4th st after the ch sp, repeat between [ ], fasten off red, leaving last 4 sts unworked. Do NOT turn. (50 hearts)

Rnd 53b: Pick up the grey loop that was set aside at the end of rnd 4. Ch 2, sk first st, long dc in next st, [ch 1, (sc in ch sp at top of heart, ch 1, sk the sc just after the heart, working over the red chain, long dc in next 3 sc, ch 1,) 24 times, sc in ch sp at top of heart, ch 1, sk the sc just after the heart, dc3tog being sure to draw the loops up to row height just like for the long dc, ch 2], sk ch sp, dc2tog being sure to draw the loops up to row height, repeat [ ], join, turn.

Rnd 54: Sl st in corner ch sp, sl st in first st, ch 1, [sc2tog, sc in each st across to 2 sts before corner, sc2tog, ch 2], sk ch sp, repeat between [ ], join, turn. (296 sts)

Rnd 55: Sl st in corner ch sp, sl st in first st, ch 1, [sc in each st across to 2 sts before corner, sc2tog, ch 2], sk ch sp, repeat between [ ], join, turn. (292 sts)

Rnd 56: Repeat Rnd 54. (290 sts)

Rnd 57: Sl st in corner ch sp, sl st in first sc, changing to red, fasten off grey. With red, ch 1, [sc2tog, sc in each st across to corner, ch 2] sk ch sp, repeat between [ ], join, turn. (286 sts)

Joining: If you have any loose ends in the hem area, weave them in before joining. Hem should fold up naturally; just ensure corner ch sps are lined up. Working through both loops of rnd 9 and unused loops from rnd 37 of poncho, sl st in 2nd ch of ch sp, sl st in each st and ch around, fasten off.

Chart for Hem

Click image for larger view

Edging:

  • Bottom: With right side facing, join red with sl st in either corner chain space on the bottom edge of poncho. Working in unused loops from row 43, (ch1, sl in next st) across to corner, (ch1, sl, ch1, sl) in corner, (Ch1, sl in next st) across to the corner you started in, (ch1, sl, ch1) in corner, sl to 1st st, fasten off.
  • Collar: With right side facing, join red in marked st (last st on row 6).
    • Working in sides of rows, work 4sc evenly spaced to corner of collar (row 1)
    • Working in bottom of row 1, 3 sc in first st, sc in each st across to last st, 3sc in last st.
    • Working in sides of rows, work 8 sc evenly spaced to the bottom of the neckline
    • Working in sides of rows, work 4 sc evenly spaced back to marked st, join with sl st to first st of edging, fasten off.  Weave in all ends.

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Comments

Free Pattern – For Emily — 22 Comments

    • POINTS!!!! first guess and it’s absolutely right! 🙂 That’s one of my favorite songs and the whole time I was making this it just made me think of it. I can picture her wearing this while they walked “on frosted fields of juniper and lamplight”

  1. I’m curious if you’ve tried one without a collar. I want to try one, but am looking for a little more casual. Love your work though!

    • I have not done it, but I think you totally could. Start like this (I’m starting with row 6 to match the rest of the row numbers):

      Row 6: Work 65 fsc, turn OR
      Alternate Row 6: Ch 66 LOOSELY, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (65 sc)

      Row 7: Ch 3, 2dc in same st, dc in next 31 sts, (dc, ch 2, 2dc) in next st, dc in next 31 sts, 2dc in last st, turn. (70 sts).

      Then continue from Rnd 8 as written. This will leave you with a tiny little V shaped slit at the collar, but I think that will still look nice.

      If you don’t want that slit at the collar, try this instead:

      Rnd 6: Work 64 fsc, join OR
      Alternate Rnd 6: Ch 65 LOOSELY, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, join, turn. (64 sc)

      Rnd 7: Ch 3, 2dc in same st, dc in next 31 sts, (dc, ch 2, 2dc) in next st, dc in next 31 sts, 2dc in first st, ch 2, join, turn. (70 sts).

      Rnd 8: Work as for Rnd 9. (76 sts)

      Continue with Rnd 9 as written.

  2. I am a beginner… the main poncho is worked in rounds, but every rows’ instructions say to join and turn. I don’t understand the turning? Can I not just keep going around? Thanks!!

    • Working in rounds does not necessarily mean working in CONTINUOUS rounds (which is what you’re thinking of). You can work in the round by joining and turning at each round, or by working continuously around. Both methods have their pluses and minuses. Working in continuous rounds causes the rounds to shift a half a stitch with every round (see more info here: http://stitchesnscraps.com/tutorial-why-continuous-rounds-shift/), which is why for something like this, I prefer to join and turn. Just join the rounds with a slip stitch as indicated, then turn and work back in the other direction 🙂

      • Ah ha! I get it – thank you so much for taking the time to explain. I have about 9 rounds done, but I fear I am not doing the end of round Chain 2, join and turn, and then the beginning of round slip stitch Chain 3 combo correctly since I seem to have two holes instead of one in the joined area. Any idea what I am doing wrong?

  3. Thank you so much for the quick reply – I pulled that image down. Now I guess I need to doing a whole lot of frogging. I appreciate your help!

    • before you frog…..if you have a long enough starting tail, you MAY be able to fix it when sewing the tail in….just sew the loose dc to the one next to it, that should close the gap. You may want to try that and see how it looks before frogging it all

  4. Hi I will be making this for a rather large person in order to make it even larger how many stitches would I need as a repeat. Not sure how to state this.

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