Free Pattern – For Emily

For Emily PonchoThis unique poncho is worked in one piece, from the top down. It has a folded down shirt collar, and a folded up bottom hem, both with a border of little hearts. I have to give a great big thank you to my friend Annie, who convinced me to try the folded up hem!

For Emily - One size fits most

The “one size fits most” design makes this a great pattern for gifting. All the women shown here are wearing the exact same piece. It’s hard not to want to keep it for yourself though!


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For Emily

4-medium
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Materials:

Difficulty:

Intermediate – Increases, decreases, working in the round, and changing colors. Most of the pattern is fairly easy, but the heart stitch rows can be a little tricky on the first try. Charts are provided for these two sections.

Size:

Adult, one size fits most.

Gauge:

12 dc x 7 rows = approximately 4″ square. Row 6 (the narrowest point) should be about 22” long.

Abbreviations used:

  • RS = right side
  • ch = chain
  • sc = single crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sk = skip
  • sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together
  • dc2tog = doube crochet 2 stitches together
    dc3tog = double crochet 3 stitches together
    long dc = long double crochet – see special stitches
    heart = heart stitch – see special stitches

Special Stitches:

  • Heart Stitch (heart): Work (2dc, ch1, 2dc) all in the same st.
  • Long double crochet (long dc): Work the same as a normal dc, except when you draw up a loop, pull it up a little bit higher than normal so that your stitches come out to the height of the current row.

Notes:

  • Because the collar and hem are flipped over, the right and wrong sides will change. On the collar and hem, the odd numbered rows are RS rows. On the main part of the poncho, the even numbered rows are the RS rows.
  • Stitch counts shown do not include the corner chain 2 spaces.
  • Starting ch 3 counts as first dc. Starting ch 1 or ch 2 does NOT count as a stitch.
  • Charts are provided for the collar and hem sections for the sake of clarity. Both the written instructions and charts these sections are the same – you should only work one or the other (either written or charted) for each section, not both.
  • In row 3b of the collar and rnd 53b of the hem, the long dc stitches are worked over the red chains, so that the red chains are hidden within the dc stitches.
  • If you would like to make the poncho longer, you can add rounds between rounds 43 & 44. Be sure to add them in sets of 4 (repeats of rnds 10 – 13).
  • For advanced crocheters – If you want to make changes, here are the multiples you will need to keep in mind (not counting the corner chain spaces):
    • Row 1 has a multiple of 12 + 10 stitches, so the starting chain is a multiple of 12 + 3.
    • Row 2 (to set up for the heart stitch row) should be a multiple of 12 + 5
    • Rnd 43 (to set up for the heart stitch round) should be a multiple of 12 + 4
    • Rnd 57 should have the same number of stitches as Rnd 43.

Recommended Resources:

  • Heart Hat by Charmed by Ewe – Has a photo tutorial for the heart stitch. The stitch counts are slightly different, but the idea is the same, and the hat would coordinate beautifully with this poncho!
  • How to Crochet the Love is Cold ear warmer by Moogly – Entirely different stitches and counts, but the video shows clearly how to work around the chains between the hearts, like on rnds 3b and 53b. It is also another great pattern to coordinate with this one!
  • How to crochet Long Double Crochet by Crochet Spot – The ones they are showing are much longer than the ones you will need, but the concept is the same.
  • Seeing Stitches by Charles Voth – a great tutorial on reading crochet charts!

Instructions

Collar:

With Grey, ch 87

Row 1 (RS): Sc2tog in 2nd and 3rd chains from hook, sc in next 40 chs, sk next 2 chs, sc in next 40 chs, sc2tog in last 2 chains, turn. (82 sts).

Row 2: Ch 2, sk first st, dc in next 38 sts, dc2tog, ch 2 (corner), dc3tog, dc in next 36 sts, dc2tog, turn. Secure working loop with a stitch marker so it can’t pull out, and remove hook. (77 sts)

Row 3a: Skip first 4 sts, join red with sl st in 5th st. [Ch 3 (counts as dc, now and throughout), (dc, ch1, 2dc) in same sp, (ch 4, sk next 5 sts, heart in next st) 5 times], fasten off red – there should be 3 unworked sts left before the corner. Join red with sl st in the 5th st after the ch sp, repeat between [ ], fasten off red, leaving last 4 sts unworked. Do NOT turn. (12 hearts)

Row 3b: Pick up the grey loop that was set aside at the end of row 2.  Ch 2, sk first st, long dc in next 2 sts, [ch 1, sc in ch sp at top of heart, (ch 1, sk the dc just after the heart, working over the red chain, long dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, sc in ch sp at top of heart) 5 times, ch 1, sk the dc just after the heart], dc2tog being sure to draw the loops up to row height just like for the long dc, ch 2, sk ch sp, dc3tog being sure to draw the loops up to row height, repeat between [ ],dc in next st, dc2tog being sure to draw the loops up to row height, turn.

Row 4: Ch 2, sk first st, dc in next dc, dc in next ch sp, (dc in next sc, dc in next ch sp, dc in next 3dc, dc in next ch sp) 5 times, dc in next sc, dc2tog using the next ch sp and the following st, ch2, sk ch sp, (dc3tog using the next st, ch sp, and following st), (dc in next ch sp, dc in next 3 dc, dc in next ch sp, dc in next sc) 5 times,  dc in last ch sp, dc2tog, turn. (67 sts)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 31 sts, ch 2, sk ch sp, sc2tog, sc in next 30 sts, sc2tog changing to red, turn, fasten off grey. (64 sts)

Row 6: With red, ch 1, sc in next 32 sts, ch 2, sk ch sp, sc in next 32 sts changing to grey with last st, turn, fasten off red. Mark last st of this row for edging.

Symbol Key for charts

Chart for Collar
Click image for larger view

Poncho:

Row 7: With grey, and working in BLO: Ch 3, 2dc in same st, dc in next 31 sts, (dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch sp, dc in next 31 sts, 2dc in last st, turn (70 sts).

Rnd 8 (RS): Working in both loops as normal: Ch 3, 2dc in same st, dc in next 34 sts, (dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch sp, dc in next 34 sts, 2dc in last st, ch 2, join with sl st in top of starting ch 3 to begin working in rounds, turn. (76 sts)

Rnd 9: Sl st in ch sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in each st across to next ch sp, (dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch sp, dc in each st across, dc in same ch sp as start of rnd, ch 2, join, turn. (82 sts)

Rnd 10: Sl st in ch sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, [(ch 1, sk next st, dc in next 2 sts) across to last 2 sts before ch sp, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st], (dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch sp, repeat between [ ], dc in same ch sp as start of rnd, ch 2, join, turn. (60 sts)

Rnd 11: Sl st in corner ch sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in each ch 1 sp and in each dc across to next corner, (dc, ch 2, 2dc) in corner ch sp, dc in each ch 1 sp and in each dc across, dc in same corner ch sp as start of rnd, ch 2, join, turn. (94 sts)

Rnd 12-13: Sl st in ch sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in each st across to next ch sp, (dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch sp, dc in each st across, dc in same ch sp as start of rnd, ch 2, join, turn. (106 sts)

Rnds 14-43: Repeat rounds 10-13 seven more times, then repeat rounds 10 and 11 once more. (286 sts)

Rnd 44: Working in BLO: Sl st in corner ch sp, dc in 2nd ch of same ch sp, dc in each dc across to next corner, dc in next ch, ch 2, 2dc in next ch, dc in each st across, dc in first ch of same ch sp as start of rnd, ch 2, join, turn. (292 sts)

Rnd 45: Working in both loops as normal: Repeat Rnd 13. (298 sts)

Rnds 46-48: Repeat Rnds 10 – 12 of poncho. (316 sts)

Hem:

Rnd 49 (RS): Working in BLO: Sl st in corner ch sp, sl st in first st, changing to red. Fasten off grey. With red, ch 1, sc2tog in same st and next st, [sc in each st across to corner, ch 2, sk ch sp], sc2tog, repeat between [ ], join, turn. (314 sts)

Rnd 50: Working in both loops as normal: Sl st in corner ch sp, sl st in first sc changing to grey. Fasten off red. With grey, ch 1, [sc2tog, sc in each st across to 2 sts before corner, sc2tog, ch 2], sk ch sp, repeat between [ ], join, turn. (310 sts)

Rnd 51: Sl st in corner ch sp, sl st in first st, ch 1, [sc in each st across to 2 sts before corner, sc2tog, ch 2], sk ch sp, repeat between [ ], join, turn. (308 sts)

Rnd 52: Sl st in corner ch sp, sl st in first st, ch 1, [sc2tog, sc in each st across to 2 sts before corner, sc2tog, ch 2], sk ch sp, repeat between [ ], join, turn. Secure working loop with a stitch marker so it can’t pull out, and remove hook. (304 sts)

Rnd 53a: Skip ch sp and first 3 sts, join red with sl st in 4th st. [Ch 3 (counts as dc, now and throughout), (dc, ch1, 2dc) in same sp, ch 4, sk next 5 sts, (heart in next st, ch 4, sk next 5 sts) 24 times], fasten off red – there should be 4 unworked sts left before the corner. Join red with sl st in the 4th st after the ch sp, repeat between [ ], fasten off red, leaving last 4 sts unworked. Do NOT turn. (50 hearts)

Rnd 53b: Pick up the grey loop that was set aside at the end of rnd 4. Ch 2, sk first st, long dc in next st, [ch 1, (sc in ch sp at top of heart, ch 1, sk the sc just after the heart, working over the red chain, long dc in next 3 sc, ch 1,) 24 times, sc in ch sp at top of heart, ch 1, sk the sc just after the heart, dc3tog being sure to draw the loops up to row height just like for the long dc, ch 2], sk ch sp, dc2tog being sure to draw the loops up to row height, repeat [ ], join, turn.

Rnd 54: Sl st in corner ch sp, sl st in first st, ch 1, [sc2tog, sc in each st across to 2 sts before corner, sc2tog, ch 2], sk ch sp, repeat between [ ], join, turn. (296 sts)

Rnd 55: Sl st in corner ch sp, sl st in first st, ch 1, [sc in each st across to 2 sts before corner, sc2tog, ch 2], sk ch sp, repeat between [ ], join, turn. (292 sts)

Rnd 56: Repeat Rnd 54. (290 sts)

Rnd 57: Sl st in corner ch sp, sl st in first sc, changing to red, fasten off grey. With red, ch 1, [sc2tog, sc in each st across to corner, ch 2] sk ch sp, repeat between [ ], join, turn. (286 sts)

Joining: If you have any loose ends in the hem area, weave them in before joining. Hem should fold up naturally; just ensure corner ch sps are lined up. Working through both loops of rnd 57 and unused loops from rnd 43, sl st in 2nd ch of ch sp, sl st in each st and ch around, fasten off.

Chart for Hem
Click image for larger view

Edging:

  • Bottom: With right side facing, join red with sl st in either corner chain space on the bottom edge of poncho. Working in unused loops from row 48, (ch1, sl in next st) across to corner, (ch1, sl, ch1, sl) in corner, (Ch1, sl in next st) across to the corner you started in, (ch1, sl, ch1) in corner, sl to 1st st, fasten off.
  • Collar: With right side facing, join red in marked st (last st on row 6).
    • Working in sides of rows, work 4sc evenly spaced to corner of collar (row 1)
    • Working in bottom of row 1, 3 sc in first st, sc in each st across to last st, 3sc in last st.
    • Working in sides of rows, work 8 sc evenly spaced to the bottom of the neckline
    • Working in sides of rows, work 4 sc evenly spaced back to marked st, join with sl st to first st of edging, fasten off.  Weave in all ends.

I hope you enjoy the pattern! An ad-free, downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store for a $1 fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

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45 Comments

  • Maria

    I’m curious if you’ve tried one without a collar. I want to try one, but am looking for a little more casual. Love your work though!

    • Pia Thadani

      I have not done it, but I think you totally could. Start like this (I’m starting with row 6 to match the rest of the row numbers):

      Row 6: Work 65 fsc, turn OR
      Alternate Row 6: Ch 66 LOOSELY, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (65 sc)

      Row 7: Ch 3, 2dc in same st, dc in next 31 sts, (dc, ch 2, 2dc) in next st, dc in next 31 sts, 2dc in last st, turn. (70 sts).

      Then continue from Rnd 8 as written. This will leave you with a tiny little V shaped slit at the collar, but I think that will still look nice.

      If you don’t want that slit at the collar, try this instead:

      Rnd 6: Work 64 fsc, join OR
      Alternate Rnd 6: Ch 65 LOOSELY, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, join, turn. (64 sc)

      Rnd 7: Ch 3, 2dc in same st, dc in next 31 sts, (dc, ch 2, 2dc) in next st, dc in next 31 sts, 2dc in first st, ch 2, join, turn. (70 sts).

      Rnd 8: Work as for Rnd 9. (76 sts)

      Continue with Rnd 9 as written.

  • Paula

    I am a beginner… the main poncho is worked in rounds, but every rows’ instructions say to join and turn. I don’t understand the turning? Can I not just keep going around? Thanks!!

    • Pia Thadani

      Working in rounds does not necessarily mean working in CONTINUOUS rounds (which is what you’re thinking of). You can work in the round by joining and turning at each round, or by working continuously around. Both methods have their pluses and minuses. Working in continuous rounds causes the rounds to shift a half a stitch with every round (see more info here: https://stitchesnscraps.com/tutorial-why-continuous-rounds-shift/), which is why for something like this, I prefer to join and turn. Just join the rounds with a slip stitch as indicated, then turn and work back in the other direction ๐Ÿ™‚

      • Paula

        Ah ha! I get it – thank you so much for taking the time to explain. I have about 9 rounds done, but I fear I am not doing the end of round Chain 2, join and turn, and then the beginning of round slip stitch Chain 3 combo correctly since I seem to have two holes instead of one in the joined area. Any idea what I am doing wrong?

  • Paula

    Thank you so much for the quick reply – I pulled that image down. Now I guess I need to doing a whole lot of frogging. I appreciate your help!

    • Pia Thadani

      before you frog…..if you have a long enough starting tail, you MAY be able to fix it when sewing the tail in….just sew the loose dc to the one next to it, that should close the gap. You may want to try that and see how it looks before frogging it all

  • Vickie

    Hi I will be making this for a rather large person in order to make it even larger how many stitches would I need as a repeat. Not sure how to state this.

  • Beverly Berlin

    Hi Emily,
    This pattern is beautiful and I’m making it as a birthday present for my daughter-in-law. I’m relatively new to crocheting and have read quite a bit to try to understand how to read a chart as well as to read instructions in parenthesis and brackets. Nevertheless, I’m struggling with Line 3A. I have completed one repetition beginning with [Ch3 and ending with ….heart in next st)5 times]. If I’m reading this correctly, the next repetition would begin with [Chain 3 and end…heart in next st)] until I had completed a total of 5 cycles. However, the chart seems to show the repetition beginning with 2dc followed by 4 chain then 2dc and a chain. Please help me understand how to create the repetition . What is the next instruction following the first repetition?

  • Beverly Berlin

    Hi Pia,
    I was able to complete the collar with your prior help (thanks!) and now am stuck on Round 14, the first of 7 repetitions of Rounds 10 -13. I have 106 stitches at the completion of Round 13, 53 stitches on each side of the ch sp. Round 10 says [(ch 1, sk next st, dc in next 2 sts) across to last 2 sts before ch sp, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st]. When I try to complete the dc in the next two stitches before the last two stitches, I’m unable to as I have 3 stitches left. So I’m unable to both do dc in the next two st and also, the last part of the instruction, ch 1, sk next st, dc in the next st. I do have a picture I can send you if you give me your email as I’m unable to insert a picture in this box. I am at a loss as to how to proceed. Perhaps a chart of line 13 and line 10 would help then I could see exactly what I’ve done wrong. I appreciate your help. B

    • Pia Thadani

      ok let’s look at the math: (ch 1, sk next st, dc in next 2 sts) is worked over 3 sts. so if you do that 17 times, that should be 51 sts. If you have 53 sts on each side of the ch sp, that means 2 sts are left before the ch sp, which is correct. So it looks like somewhere you’ve done an extra stitch or skipped an extra stitch, or you had only 52 on that side.

  • Beverly Berlin

    Hi Emily,
    I’m trying to adjust the finished length of the poncho to meet my daughter-in-law’s request. Please clarify your statement in the gauge info that Row 6 should be about 22″. What Row 6 is that?
    Row 6 is still the collar?
    What is the finished length of the poncho from top where Row 7 begins to bottom triangular point?
    And what is the length of the 10 inches of hem Round 49 -57?…
    Thanks so much.
    Bev

  • Pia Thadani

    Yes, Row 6 is the collar – that’s the narrowest point, and that row should be about 22″ long. Not the height of your work up to that point, but the actual length of that row (i.e. the circumference of the collar at its narrowest point).

    I did not measure the other dimensions you asked about when I first made this. I have since worn and washed it MANY times, so these dimensions are probably stretched out quite a bit, but here are the measurements now:

    From collar to hem at one “point” (i.e. on the diagonal) I get 27″. From collar to hem along a straight edge, it’s 21. The hem adds about 3″ when folded up (so 6″ before folding). The collar is about 3″ as well, but since it folds down it doesn’t add to the overall length.

    I hope that helps!

  • Beverly Berlin

    Pia,
    This is a technique question you may be able to help with. I find when I do the repeating rounds of the poncho nos. 10 -13 or rounds where there is a chain 2 slip stitch to join, turn, then a sl st to join to ch sp, then a ch 3, then a dc there is a lot of bulk to the ch area. Then when I come to the end of the round and try to do the dc in ch 2 sp I can hardly find it as it seems filled with the beginning of the round ch3, dc. sl st, etc. Hopefully this description makes sense. Is there some video or tutorial I can watch/read to help me see how to slim down this area and make sure I am able to find the right space to dc so that the “windows” line up in the center front the way they do so nicely in the center back.

    Btw, are there sites you like for tutorials? It’s not stitches I have most problem with but knotty issues like I don’t know why this area is so bulky or this design isn’t lining up the way it should. The problems are more difficult to diagnose. I am working hard to get better but it’s taking more time than I’d like.
    Thanks,
    Bev

    • Pia Thadani

      Bev: I know exactly what you are talking about, unfortunately thatโ€™s the best way to get the stitches to line up correctly. You might want to try putting a stitch marker into the chain space before you work into it, so that at the end of the round itโ€™s easier to find.

      I think youโ€™ll find the join less noticeable after blocking too.

      If itโ€™s really bothersome, you could try doing just a ch 2 for the first dc, or try skipping the slip stitch, but that might make the corner uneven.

  • Beverly Berlin

    Pia,
    Thanks for referring me to your video; it was helpful. I also noticed that you do your slip stitches through the back loop only rather than through both back and front loops. In fact slip stitches are another problems for me. Perhaps you have a video which will help. I understand how to join with a slip stitch but I must make errors in the rounds following those joins because my stitch count is always off and try as I might I can’t figure out the principle. I don’t understand what happens to the count after the slip st join or in the next round whether the slip st is the stitch to crochet into….
    So for eg. R50 has a sl st in corner ch sp followed by sl st in first sc. At the end of that round, am I joining to the sl st in that first sc? If not to what? And the Count you give (310) is the same before the join as after, right? And R51 after the sl st to the corner ch, is the sl st that follows crocheted into the sl st from the prior row? I sound muddled and feel all slipped up by slip stiches. Can you suggest a tutorial or some other aid for me so I can get this straighten out. I know its fundamental to having my counts correct and having garments look like the pictures. Thanks as always for your time and professionalism.

    • Pia Thadani

      I actually don’t work into the back loop only normally. When I’m working into a chain (as in the case of this pattern and the video) I sometimes go into the top loop and back bump together…but if I’m slip stitching into a regular stitch, it’s always through both the front and back loops as normal. Either way, I’m always slip stitching into 2 loops (unless there’s a specific reason to do it differently).

      The slip stitch is not usually counted as a stitch, so when you work the next stitch you ignore the sl stitch. When you join at the end of the round, also ignore those sl sts. Basically the slip stitches are there to move your active stitch to where it needs to be. In the case of Rnd 50, you start just before the ch sp, but you need to get to the stitch after the sp, so you sl st into the space, then sl st into the st you want to be in, and basically start the round from there.

  • Ada

    I really would like to do this pattern without the hearts, but I want a collar. When I followed the instructions to skip 3a and DC for 3b when I get to row 4 it’s set for the hearts not for disregarding 3a and b being all DC. If anyone has done it without the hearts but a single color collar please let me know. This is a great look and thanks….going to do with v slit for now…I want this in many colors

    • Pia Thadani

      Where did you see instructions to skip 3a?

      The easiest way to make the collar all one color is to work it as written but with the same color for all the rows. You will need to use a separate ball, but that way you won’t have to make any adjustments to the pattern. ๐Ÿ™‚

      • ADA ROBERSON

        Carol Sue in October of 2017 asked about not making the hearts on the collar. I did a screenshot of it, so I could refer to it as I didn’t want the hearts at the top but on the bottom. I tried to purchase the off, but the site seems to be down. How do I get it to form wider at the shoulders for a broader person? What I am looking at seems to fit a smaller person. I crochet but mainly afghans, hats, booties, have did one jacket, but this is the first poncho that I can envision me wearing in many colors…thanks for the response…

        • Pia Thadani

          ok, I don’t see Carol’s comment so if she commented here, I must have deleted it – I often don’t leave comments up if I think they might be confusing for others who are trying to make the pattern.

          You’re right about the store – Craftsy shut it down when they went to Blueprint and I never updated the post. But you can get the pattern on Ravelry here: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/for-emily I’ll update the link in the post now.

          As far as making it wider at the shoulders, it will continue to get wider with every round. It’s mostly about the neck opening, as a poncho is pretty fluid in size otherwise. I’m pretty large at the shoulders and this one fits me very comfortably. If you do want to make adjustments to the pattern, I included all the repeats you will need to keep in mind in the notes section.

  • ADA ROBERSON

    Carol Sue in October of 2017 asked about not making the hearts on the collar. I did a screenshot of it, so I could refer to it. I tried to purchase the pdf from the link, but the site seems to be down. How do I get it to form wider at the shoulders for a broader person? What I am looking at ( current have done) seems to fit a smaller person. I crochet but mainly afghans, hats, booties, have did one jacket, but this is the first poncho that I can envision me wearing in many colors…thanks for the response…

    • Pia Thadani

      ok, I don’t see Carol’s comment so if she commented here, I must have deleted it – I often don’t leave comments up if I think they might be confusing for others who are trying to make the pattern.

      You’re right about the store – Craftsy shut it down when they went to Blueprint and I never updated the post. But you can get the pattern on Ravelry here: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/for-emily I’ll update the link in the post now.

      As far as making it wider at the shoulders, it will continue to get wider with every round. It’s mostly about the neck opening, as a poncho is pretty fluid in size otherwise. I’m pretty large at the shoulders and this one fits me very comfortably. If you do want to make adjustments to the pattern, I included all the repeats you will need to keep in mind in the notes section.

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