Snowdrift Crochet Capelet
Wrap yourself in the softness of freshly fallen snow, blown by the wind into curving, twisting, pillowy snowdrifts. The Snowdrift Crochet Capelet is the perfect partner for formalwear or for more laid-back looks.

It starts with a horizontal cable panel, and builds from there into a circular yoke. Finaly, pom pom border adds a fun, finishing touch.
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Bernat Fabwoolous Yarn
Yarnspirations provided the lovely Bernat Fabwoolous Yarn for this design. It’s a super soft and squishy, worsted weight blend of acrylic and superwash wool. It’s cozy without being heavy, and is smooth and luscious to work with.

I wanted a snowy white color (001 – Cream) for my capelet, but there are plenty of other lovely colors to choose from as well!
2025 Gift to Myself Crochet Along
This Snowdrift Crochet Capelet is my design for the 2025 Gift to Myself Crochet Along hosted by Underground Crafter. Follow along for 23 patterns throughout the month of January, plus great prizes too! See the main post for the full schedule, other patterns, and giveaway information.

Materials
- Yarn: 500 [575, 650, 700, 775] [825, 900, 1050, 1125] yds Bernat Fabwoolous – 80% HB acrylic, 20% 22 micron superwash wool yarn (306 yds / 6 oz / 170g per skein), shown in #001 Cream
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
- Stitch Marker(s) or scrap(s) of yarn (1 to mark beginning of rnds, 10-19 additional optional – to mark cable pattern sections)
Project Level
Intermediate: Crossed cables using post stitches of various heights, working in sides of rows, decreases, puff stitches.
Sizes
1 [2, 3, 4, 5] [6, 7, 8, 9]
To fit chest circumference: 30 [34, 38, 42, 46] [50, 54, 58, 62]” / 75 [85, 95, 105, 115] [125, 135, 145, 155] cm
Bottom Circumference (A): 16 [17.5, 19.25, 20.75, 22.5] inches / 40 [43.8, 48.1, 51.9, 56.3] cm
Neck Circumference Before Ribbing (B): 16 [16, 16, 20, 20] [20, 20, 24, 24] inches / 40 [40, 40, 50, 50] [50, 50, 60, 60] cm
Length Excluding Border (C): 14.5 [15, 15.5, 15.5, 16] [16, 16.5, 17.5, 18] inches / 36.3 [37.5, 38.8, 38.8, 40] [40, 41.3, 43.8, 45] cm
Gauge
10 dc x 5 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm
In cable pattern, 12 sts x 8 rows = 4 inches /10 cm.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- bpdc = back post double crochet (see Special Stitches)
- ch = chain
- cross = 3 stitch crossing cable (see Special Stitches)
- dc = double crochet
- dc2tog = double crochet next 2 stitches together
- fpdc = front post double crochet (see Special Stitches)
- fpdtr = front post double treble crochet (see Special Stitches)
- fpslst = front post slip stitch (see Special Stitches)
- fptr = front post treble crochet (see Special Stitches)
- hdc = half double crochet
- puff = puff stitch (see Special Stitches)
- rep = repeat
- rnd = round
- RS = right side(s)
- sc = single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side
- yo = yarn over
Special Stitches
Back post double crochet (bpdc): Yo, insert hook from back to front and to back again around post of indicated st, yo and pull up a lp, [yo and pull through 2 lps on hook] twice.
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Yo, insert hook from front to back and to front again around post of indicated st, yo and pull up a lp, [yo and pull through 2 lps on hook] twice.
Front Post Treble Crochet (fptr): Yo twice, insert hook from front to back and to front again around post of indicated st, yo and pull up a lp, [yo and pull through 2 lps on hook] 3 times.
Front Post Double Treble Crochet (fpdtr): Yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back and to front again around post of indicated st, yo and pull up a lp, [yo and pull through 2 lps on hook] 4 times.
Bpdc, fpdc, fptr, and fpdtr are all collectively referred to in the pattern as “post stitches”
Front Post Slip St (fpslst): Insert hook from front to back and to front again around posts of indicated sts, yo and pull a lp up and through lp on hook.
This stitch is used only for seaming the Body.
3-Stitch Crossing Cable (cross): Sk next 2 fpdtr 2 rows below, fpdc around 3rd fpdtr 2 rows below, working in front of fpdc just made, fptr around 2nd skipped fpdtr 2 rows below, working in front of fptr just made, fpdtr around first skipped fpdtr 2 rows below.
The cross works front post stitches around each of the next 3 fpdtr 2 rows below, but working around them in reverse order (3rd st first, then 2nd st, then first st) to make them cross over each other. Cross counts as 3 separate sts: 1 fpdc, 1 fptr, and 1 fpdtr.
Puff Stitch (puff): [Yo, insert hook in indicated ch, yo and pull up a lp] 7 times in same ch, yo and pull through all 15 lps on hook.
Instructions
Body
Ch 28.
Body is worked sideways, in rows. Every 8 rows counts as an “8-row section”, which will be referred to later in the pattern. You may find it helpful to mark both sides of the last row of each 8-row section with a stitch marker or scrap of yarn.
First 8-Row Section
Row 1 (WS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (27 hdc)
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st throughout), turn, hdc in first st, [sk next 2 sts, fpdtr around next 3 sts, skipping a total of 3 sts behind the 3 fpdtr just worked, hdc in same st as 2nd fpdtr just worked] 6 times, hdc in same st as last fpdtr just worked, hdc in last st. (9 hdc, 18 fpdtr)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (27 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first 3 sc, [Cross, sk 3 sc on current row behind cross, hdc in next sc on current row] 6 times. (9 hdc, 6 fpdc, 6 fptr, 6 fpdtr)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (27 sc)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first sc, [fpdtr around next 3 post sts 2 rows below, sk 3 sc on current row behind 3 fpdtr just made, hdc in next sc on current row] 6 times, hdc in last 2 sc. (9 hdc, 18 fpdtr)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (27 sc)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first 3 sc, [fpdtr around next 3 post sts 2 rows below, sk 3 sc on current row behind 3 fpdtr just made, hdc in next sc on current row] 6 times. (9 hdc, 18 fpdtr)
2nd 8-Row Section
Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (27 sc)
Row 10: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first sc, [fpdtr around next 3 post sts 2 rows below, sk 3 sc on current row behind 3 fpdtr just made, hdc in next sc on current row] 6 times, hdc in last 2 sc. (9 hdc, 18 fpdtr)
Rows 11-16: Rep rows 3-8.
Remaining 8-Row Sections
[Rep rows 9-16] 8 [9, 10, 11, 12] [13, 14, 16, 17] times more. Do not fasten off.
Seam
Fold Body in half with RS together and lining up first and last row.
Seaming Row: Continuing with working yarn and working through both layers, (ch 1, fpslst) (see Pattern Notes) around each st across. Do not fasten off.
Turn work RS out, being careful not to tangle working yarn around work.
Yoke
Yoke is worked in continuous rnds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark first st of rnd and move marker up with each rnd.
Setup Rnd 1 (RS): Continuing along closest side edge of Cable Section and working into sides of rows, 10 sc evenly spaced across each 8-row section. (100 [110, 120, 130, 140] [150, 160, 180, 190] sc)
Sizes 1-4 Only
Setup rnd 2: Sc in each st around.
All Sizes
Rnd 1: Hdc in first st, dc in next 7 [8, 9, 10, 11] [12, 13, 15, 16] sts, dc2tog, [dc in next 8 [9, 10, 11, 12] [13, 14, 16, 17] sts, dc2tog] 9 times. (90 [100, 110, 120, 130] [140, 150, 170, 180] sts)
Size 9 only
Rnd 2: Dc in next 8 sts, dc2tog, [dc in next 16 sts, dc2tog] 9 times, dc in last 8 sts. (170 sts)
Rnd 3: Dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog, [dc in next 15 sts, dc2tog] 9 times, dc in last 10 sts. (160 sts)
Rnd 4: [Dc2tog, dc in next 14 sts] 10 times. (150 sts)
Rnd 5: Dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog, [dc in next 13 sts, dc2tog] 9 times, dc in last 7 sts. (140 sts)
Rnd 6: [Dc in next 12 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (130 sc)
Rnd 7: Dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog, [dc in next 11 sts, dc2tog] 9 times, dc in last 6 sts. (120 sts)
Rnd 8: [Dc in next 10 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (110 sc)
Rnd 9: Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog, [dc in next 9 sts, dc2tog] 9 times, dc in last 5 sts. (100 sts)
Rnd 10: [Dc in next 8 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (90 sc)
Rnd 11: Dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog, [dc in next 7 sts, dc2tog] 9 times, dc in last 4 sts. (80 sts)
Rnd 12: [Dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (70 sc)
Rnd 13: Dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, [dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog] 9 times, dc in last 3 sts. (60 sts)
Size 8 only
Rnds 2-12: Work as for Rnds 3-13 of Size 9. (60 sts)
Size 7 only
Rnds 2-10: Work as for Rnds 5-13 of Size 9. (60 sts)
Rnd 11: [Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (50 sts)
Size 6 only
Rnds 2-9: Work as for Rnds 6-13 of Size 9. (60 sts)
Rnd 10: [Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (50 sts)
Size 5 only
Rnds 2-8: Work as for Rnds 7-13 of Size 9. (60 sts)
Rnd 9: [Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (50 sts)
Size 4 only
Rnds 2-7: Work as for Rnds 8-13 of Size 9. (60 sts)
Rnd 8: [Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (50 sts)
Size 3 only
Rnds 2-6: Work as for Rnds 8-13 of Size 9. (60 sts)
Rnd 7: [Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (50 sts)
Rnd 8: [Dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (40 sts)
Size 2 only
Rnds 2-5: Work as for Rnds 9-13 of Size 9. (60 sts)
Rnd 6: [Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (50 sts)
Rnd 7: [Dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (40 sts)
Size 1 only
Rnds 2-5: Work as for Rnds 10-13 of Size 9. (60 sts)
Rnd 6: [Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (50 sts)
Rnd 7: [Dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (40 sts)
All Sizes
To finish working in continuous rnds, sc in next st, sl st in next st. Do not fasten off.
Collar
Rows 1-4: Ch 2 (counts as bphdc throughout), fpdc around next st, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] around, join with sl st in first st.
Fasten off.
Hem
With RS facing and working into sides of rows around bottom edge of Cable Section, join yarn with sl st in seam.
Edging Rnd (RS): *Working evenly across next 8-row section, (sl st, ch 1) in each of first 3 rows, (sl st, ch 3) in next row, (sl st, ch 1) in each of next 3 rows, (sl st, ch 3) in next row; rep from * in each 8-row section around, sl st in same row as first sl st of rnd. (60 [66, 72, 78, 84] [90, 96, 108, 114] ch-1 sps, 20 [22, 24, 26, 28] [30, 32, 36, 38] ch-3 sps).
For optional Snowball Border Rnd, to work a sl st into the ch-6 sp just made, turn and sl st into the sp (not into a specific ch), then turn back to continue the rnd.
Snowball Border Rnd (optional): Turn, sl st in last ch-3 sp of Edging Rnd, turn to RS again. Ch 9 (counts as ch-6 sp and 3 chs for snowball), [puff in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch (snowball made), ch 6, sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sl st in ch-6 sp just made (see note below), ch 7] around until a sl st has been worked into each ch-3 sp, puff in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, ch 4, sl st in beginning ch-6 sp of this rnd, ch 1, sl st in first ch-3 sp of Edging Rnd. (20 [22, 24, 26, 28] [30, 32, 36, 38] snowballs)
Fasten off.
Finishing
Wash and block gently, pinning snowballs out to form triangular points. Weave in all ends.
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6 Comments
Madri devi dasi
I want to make it so much but… How many skein of yarns/grams I need for this project, it’s not clear to me.
Pia Thadani
The yardage is broken out by size as 500 [575, 650, 700, 775] [825, 900, 1050, 1125]
So if you’re making size 1, you need 500 yds. For size 2 you need 650 yds, etc.
If you’re using the specified yarn, each skein has 306 yds. So for sizes 1 & 2 you would need 2 skeins. For sizes 3-6, 3 skeins. For sizes 7-9, 4 skeins.
Madri devi dasi
Ah, thank you. Can I use other yarn then the bernat? It’s not readily available where I live.
Pia Thadani
Yes, of course 🙂 Any worsted/medium weight yarn should work – a wool blend is preferable because it’s lighter weight. If you use a very different fiber content (like cotton, for example) it may drape slightly differently.
Madri devi dasi
Thank you so much, I have some berry punch colour Dollarama yarn that would.be perfect for it, thank you so much, can’t wait to start it!
Pia Thadani
Yay! sounds perfect 🙂