Free Crochet Patterns
Find the perfect, free crochet pattern for your next project! Browse them all, or select a category from the dropdown menu. Where will your creativity take you today?
How to Make a Crochet Footbag – Magic Stripes
Use up your yarn scraps to make your own crochet footbag! Footbags work up quickly and are great for family fun, craft fairs, and gifting. The Magic Stripes Footbag uses a helical technique to create a seamless, spiral striping design with 3 colors.
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Footbag Vs. Hacky Sack®
Footbags are small, bean-bag like balls, usually filled with plastic pellets, sand, or other similar fillings, and used in a variety of games. Hacky Sack® is a brand name of footbags. The trademark is currently registered to Wham-O corporation.
Footbags can be used for a variety of games. The most commonly known game is called circle kick. Players stand in a circle and pass the ball back and forth to each other using only their feet, with the goal of keeping it off the ground. You can find a whole bunch of other footbag games on Wikipedia!
Operation Crochet Shoeboxes
I designed this pattern for the Operation Crocheted Shoeboxes crochet-along. We’re making items to gift to children in need through Operation Christmas Child. Through November, get a new pattern each week that you can put in your shoebox! See all the crochet along details on Desert Blossom Crafts.
Buy the Bundle!
All the patterns in this crochet along are available for free on line during the event. If you like, you can also buy pdf versions of all the patterns as one bundle! All proceeds from sales of the bundle go to Operation Christmas Child.
The magic of helical stripes
When you work in continuous rounds, without joining or chaining between rounds, you create a spiral. If you start 2 or more separate spirals spaced evenly around the work, they will twist together as you go, creating “jogless” stripes.
The concept sounds complicated, but is actually easy to achieve. After one set up row, it becomes almost automatic and is great TV-time crochet!
Filling your crochet footbag
There are lots of different filling options, each with different benefits and issues.
- Plastic pellets are the most common. They are relatively cheap, durable, and washable.
- Micro glass pellets are an environmentally friendly alternative to plastic, but are also more expensive and heavier.
- Seed beads come in metal, glass, and plastic varieties.
- Footbags filled with sand have a different texture to them and are often called “dirt bags”
- Several dry goods can be used, but will make the bag not washable. Examples include:
- Rice
- Beans
- Dried corn
- Lentils
- Birdseed
For my footbag, I chose tiny seed beads with some larger pony beads thrown in for fun. I’ve had these in my stash for ages, probably over a decade, and have no idea where they originally came from.
Materials
- Yarn: Worsted weight yarn. 15 yds each of 3 colors (A, B, and C).
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- 2-3 Stitch Markers
- 1 nylon stocking (ankle or knee high)
- Optional – scrap piece of yarn to use as a running stitch marker
Project Level
Intermediate: Continuous rounds, alternating between colors.
Size
2.5 inches in diameter
Gauge
8 sts x 8 rounds = 4 inches in sc in continuous rounds.
Use pattern as gauge swatch – top should measure approximately 2.25 inches in diameter. Gauge is not critical for this project
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
rnd = round
Instructions
This footbag is worked in continuous rounds, do not join or turn unless indicated. You may want to mark the first stitch of each round.
When the instructions say to “drop” a color, remove the working loop from your hook and secure it with a stitch marker so it doesn’t pull out.
When the instructions say to “pick up” a color, pick up the free loop that was dropped earlier, and place it back on your hook. Remove the stitch marker.
Top
With A, ch 2
Rnd 1: (set up round)
- With A, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, drop A.
- Join B with sl st in same ch, 2 sc in in same ch, drop B.
- Join C with sl st in same ch, 2 sc in same ch, drop C. (6 sc total)
Rnd 2: Continuing with C, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, drop C, pick up A, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, drop A, pick up B, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: Continuing with B, inc in next st, sc in next st, drop B, pick up C, inc in next st, sc in next st, drop C, pick up A, inc in next st, sc in next st. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: Continuing with A, inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, drop A, pick up B, inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, drop B, pick up C, inc in next 2 sts, sc in next st. (24 sc)
Your work should now measure about 2.25 inches in diameter.
Weave in starting tails.
Middle:
Rnd 5: Continuing with C, sc in each of next 8 sts, drop C, pick up A, sc in each of next 8 sts, drop A, pick up B, sc in each of next 8 sts.
Rnd 6: Continuing with B, sc in each of next 8 sts, drop B, pick up C, sc in each of next 8 sts, drop C, pick up A, sc in each of next 8 sts.
Rnd 7: Continuing with A, sc in each of next 8 sts, drop A, pick up B, sc in each of next 8 sts, drop B, pick up C, sc in each of next 8 sts.
Rnds 8-10: Repeat rnds 5-7 once more
Stuff Footbag:
If you are using a larger filling that won’t come out of the crochet stitches and don’t want to use the stocking, you can work 2 rounds of the bottom before stuffing with your filling.
Fill toe of stocking with some of your chosen filler. Place it inside the ball and continue to fill until it fills the ball to just below the edge.
Remove stocking from ball and sew just above filling.
Trim excess stocking. Sew over raw edges and seam once more. Be sure to use small enough stitches that filling will not come out.
For extra protection, slide the stuffed portion of stocking into the part you trimmed off, and trim to fit again. With a knee high, you may be able to do this once more.
Insert filled stocking back into footbag.
Bottom
Rnd 11: Continuing with C, dec, sc in each of next 2 sts, drop C, pick up A, dec, sc in each of next 2 sts, drop A, pick up B, dec, sc in each of next 2 sts. (18 sc)
Rnd 12: Continuing with B, dec, sc in next st, drop B, pick up C, dec, sc in next st, drop C, pick up A, dec, sc in next st. (12 sc)
Rnd 13: Continuing with A, dec, fasten off A, pick up B, dec, fasten off B, pick up C, dec. (6 sc)
Fasten off C.
Finishing:
Sew bottom shut with tails, and weave in ends.
Rate this Crochet Footbag Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this crochet footbag pattern. You can buy pdf versions of all the patterns in this CAL as one bundle here! All proceeds from sales of the bundle go to Operation Christmas Child.
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Clip-On Hand Sanitizer Cozy Crochet Pattern
Never be without your hand sanitizer again! Turn your travel size bottle into a clip-on hand sanitizer with this quick and easy crochet cozy. Attach it to your key chain, bag, even a pet leash. Then you’ll always have it with you when you go out.
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Scrappy Stitchers Stash Bash Crochet Along
This clip-on hand sanitizer cozy is the September pattern for the 2020 Stash Bash Crochet Along. Each month, I will post a new, stash-busting pattern, and a giveaway prize too! See the giveaway details below, and join in the fun on the Scrappy Stitchers Facebook group. Remember to use the hashtag #ScrappyStitchersStashBash in your social media posts!
Removable and Reusable
This cozy goes on and off easily, so you can remove your hand sanitizer bottle whenever you need to. It should fit most travel size bottles with necks and “shoulders”, like the ones pictured here. Use it for lotion bottles too!
Lion Brand Bonbons Yarn
I have quite a stash of sparkly Bonbons from Lion Brand. They originally sent them to me for free for a magazine pattern some time ago, but I only used a few colors and now I have lots left over.
The sparkly bonbons are a lighter weight than the non-sparkly ones, so please be sure to double check your gauge. I love the sparkles, and there’s more than enough yarn in one skein to make this pattern. All the colors I used came from color pack 650 – Party.
Face Masks from Tailor Made Cosplay
Face masks are the must have accessory of the year. Mask up in style with pleated masks from Tailor Made Cosplay. Check out my Maker Spotlight interview with the owner, Mary Beth Temple.
Watch this Video on YouTube
They offer masks in a wide variety of fabrics, and I bought a couple of them earlier this year. My hubby ordered a plain black one, and I got a cute one with yarn balls all over it!
Make a Holiday Gift Set
Combine a fun mask from Tailor Made Cosplay with a matching clip-on hand sanitizer cozy and a bottle of hand sanitizer for a fantastic holiday gift or stocking stuffer.
Enter the giveaway
Tailor Made Cosplay is providing a free mask for one lucky winner. The winner will get to choose their design from the ones in stock on the website at that time! Which one would you choose? Here are a few of my favorites.
To be eligible, you must be 18 years of age or older, with a valid, US shipping address. The winner will be contacted by email, and must reply to that email and provide their selections and shipping address within 1 week in order to receive the prize. If the winner does not reply within 1 week, a new winner will be selected. The giveaway ends on October 7th, 2020 (at 11:59pm, central time). Hurry and enter below!
This giveaway is powered by Rafflecopter, and they may ask for some log-in information if you are not already logged in. See the Rafflecopter privacy policy for more information.
a Rafflecopter giveaway
Materials
- Yarn: 15 yds sport weight yarn.
- Hook: Size G / 4 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Key ring, caribiner clip, or other choice of clip or ring.
Project Level
Easy: Smaller yarn, worked in the round with some increases.
Size
About 2.5 inches x 2.5 inches without bottle. Designed to fit travel size hand sanitizer bottles.
Gauge
20 sc x 24 rows = 4 inches. Exact gauge is not critical, bottle should fit snugly.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
rnd = round
Recommended Resources
Instructions
Main Section
Join rounds where indicated with a sl st in the first st of the round. Do not turn your work unless specifically indicated.
Ch 15
Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each st around join. (14 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, (sc, dc) in first st, (sc in next st, dc in next st) twice, sc in next st, (dc, sc) in each of next 2 sts, (dc in next st, sc in next st) twice, dc in next st, (sc, dc) in last st, join. (18 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc, dc) in first st, (sc in next st, dc in next st) 3 times, sc in next st, (dc, sc) in each of next 2 sts, (dc in next st, sc in next st) 3 times, dc in next st, (sc, dc) in last st, join. (22 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, (sc, dc) in first st, (sc in next st, dc in next st) 4 times, sc in next st, (dc, sc) in each of next 2 sts, (dc in next st, sc in next st) 4 times, dc in next st, (sc, dc) in last st, join. (26 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as dc), (sc in next st, dc in next st) around, join. (26 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in first st, dc in next st, (sc in next st, dc in next st) around, join. (26 sts)
Rnds 7-14: Repeat rnds 5-6 4 more times.
Strap
This section is worked back and forth in rows.
Row 1: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 5 sts, leaving remaining sts unworked. (5 sts)
Rows 2-8: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, fasten off. (5 sts)
Slide strap through your chosen ring or clip.
On the main section, skip the next 8 unworked sts, and line up end of strap with the next 5 stitches. This should center the strap with 8 unworked sts on each side of it. Sew end of strap into place.
Finishing:
Weave in all ends.
Pull strap to one side so it’s out of the way. Insert bottle so that the cap goes through the hole at the bottom of the cozy. Then stretch the strap up and over the bottom of the bottle.
Clip on to your desired item and you’re ready to go!
Rate this Clip-On Hand Sanitizer Cozy Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this clip-on hand sanitizer cozy crochet pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Halloween Crochet Amigurumi – Breezy the Baby Bat
Breezy the Baby Bat is a laid back kinda guy who loves hanging out with his batty friends. This Halloween crochet amigurumi pattern works up quickly, so you can make a whole colony!
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CAL Central Halloween CAL
I designed this Halloween crochet amigurumi pattern for the 2020 Halloween CAL at CAL Central Crochet. Follow along on the CAL Central Crochet Facebook group for more crochet amigurumi patterns. Share your CAL pictures (we love to see all the projects) and don’t forget to enter the giveaway!
Batty about Bats
Bats may look spooky, but they’re really our friends! They help pollinate plants and eat a lot of annoying bugs like mosquitoes. Just like real bats, Breezy is a sociable creature, used to hanging out (literally) with a large colony. So be sure to make him some friends too!
Baby Buddies
Breezy is similar in style and design to his friends, Awesome the Baby Elephant, Noble the Lion Cub, Bravo the Bear Cub, and Sunny the Baby Bunny. Make them all!
Color Choices
Real bats come in all shades of grey, black, and brown, and there are even a few white (albino) bats! I chose grey and black, but you can get creative with any color combination. Go neutral for a realistic look, or try something different for fun.
Poly Fil Premium Fiber Fill
Fairfield World generously sent me lots of Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber Filling for these softie designs. This is my go to stuffing material for all my crochet amigurumi patterns because it’s so soft and squishy and easy to use.
My favorite stuffing tip is to tear the stuffing into small bits and stuff just a little at a time, rather than trying to put a whole handful in all at once. This creates a smoother finish and avoids clumps and lumps.
Materials
- Yarn: Worsted weight yarn
- 75 yds main color (A – shown in grey)
- 75 yds accent color (B – shown in black)
- Hook: Size H/ 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Fairfield Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber Filling
- Yarn Needle
- Stitch Marker or scrap of yarn to use as marker.
Project Level
Intermediate: Mostly single crochet in the round, with some increases and multiple types of decreases.
Size
7 inches tall not counting ears.
Gauge
14 sc x 14 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch – Rounds 1 – 4 should measure 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
fpdc = front post double crochet
sc3tog = single crochet next 3 stitches together (see Special Stitches)
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
dec = decrease (see Special Stitches)
dbl dec = double decrease (see Special Stitches)
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
ch-sp = chain space
rnd = round
RS = right side
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of next st, then sc in both loops of the same st. See full tutorial here.
Decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Double Decrease (dbl dec): Insert hook into front loop only of all of next 3 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. This is a much less bulky alternative to an sc3tog, and is used at the tips of the ears only.
Single Crochet 3 Together (sc3tog): (Insert hook into next st, yo and pull up a loop) 3 times, yo and pull through all 4 loops on hook.
Picot: Ch 3, sl st into last st made before the ch 3. (See full tutorial here)
Instructions
Body
Body, head, and muzzle are worked in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark first stitch of each round.
With A, ch 2
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Inc around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (Inc in next st, sc in next st) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts) around. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 6: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts) around. (30 sc)
Rnds 7-10: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 11: (Dec, sc in each of next 3 sts) around. (24 sts)
Rnds 12-15: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 16: (Dec, sc in each of next 2 sts) around. (18 sts)
Rnds 17-18: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 19: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sts)
Stuff body most of the way full and continue stuffing as you go.
Head
Rnds 20-22: Repeat rnds 3-5
Rnd 23: Sc in next 6 sts, ch 6, sk next 6 sts, sc in last 12 sts. (18 sc and ch-6 sp for muzzle)
Rnd 24: Sc in each st and each ch around. (24 sc)
Rnd 25: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 26: (Dec, sc in next 2 sts) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 27: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sc)
Rnd 28: Dec around. (6 sc)
Fasten off.
Using tails, sew top of head and bottom of body closed, then weave in all ends.
Finish stuffing head through muzzle opening.
Muzzle
With RS facing, join A with sl st in any st or ch around muzzle opening.
Rnd 1: Work 14 sc evenly spaced around muzzle opening.
This works out to 1 sc in each st, 1 sc in the bottom of each ch, and 1 extra sc in each side, where the stitches and chains meet.
Rnd 2: (Dec, sc in next 5 sts) twice. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (Dec, sc in next 2 sts) around. (9 sts)
Rnd 4: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (6 sts)
Fasten off leaving an 8 inch tail
Stuff muzzle.
If needed, you can use the back of your hook, a knitting needle, a chopstick, or other similar tool to push the stuffing into the muzzle.
Using tail, sew muzzle closed and weave in all ends.
Wings
With B, ch 38
Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 6 chs, sk next ch, dc in next ch, sk next ch, sc in next 8 chs, 3 sc in next ch, sc in next 8 chs, sk next ch, dc in next ch, sk next ch, sc in next 6 chs, 2 sc in last ch. (35 sc, 2 dc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 6 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 8 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in last st. (37 sts)
Row 3: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 6 sts, sk next st, fpdc in next dc one row below, sk next st, sc in next 8 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, sk next st, fpdc dc in next dc one row below, sk next st, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in last st. (35 sc, 2 fpdc)
Rows 4-7: Repeat rows 2-3 twice.
Edging Round
- Bottom: Ch 1, (dc, sc) in first st, sc in next 7 sts, sl st in next st, sc in next 9 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts, sl st in next st, sc in next 7 sts, (sc, dc, ch-1) in next st. (39 sts, 2 sl sts)
- Side: Working in sides of rows, work 8 sc evenly spaced across to top. (8 sc)
- Top: Working in bottom of row 1, (sc, picot, sc) in first st, sc in next 7 sts, (sc, picot, sc) in next st, sc in next 9 sts, sl st in next st, sc in next 9 sts, (sc, picot, sc) in next st, sc in next 7 sts, (sc, picot, sc) in next st. (40 sc, 4 picots, 1 sl st)
- Side: Working in sides of rows, work 8 sc evenly spaced to beginning of round. (8 sc)
Fasten off
Weave in all ends. Wash and block wings.
You can stiffen the wings with fabric stiffener or glue if desired – the sample shown has not been stiffened.
Ear (make 2)
With B, ch 2, leaving an 8 inch tail for sewing.
Row 1: 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (4 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in last st. (6 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, dec twice, sc in last st. (4 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, dec, sc in last st. (3 sts)
Row 5: Dbl dec. (1 st)
Edging Rnd: Do not turn, working around outside edge of ear, work 10 sl st evenly spaced around. This should make the ear curl in slightly.
Fasten off. Weave in ending tail.
Finishing
Sew ears to head using the starting tail.
Weave in all ends.
With B, embroider nose and eyes.
Center wings on back of body, starting at the base of the head, so that the post stitches show at the front. The picots should be on the top of the wings.
Sew wings to body down center line. Sew an additional seam one stitch over on each side of center line.
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Rate this Halloween Crochet Amigurumi Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this crochet amigurumi bat pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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How to Crochet Pet Stairs with Fairfield Project Foam
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Sometimes our smaller fur babies need a little help to reach high places. Give them a boost with these crochet pet stairs! The sturdy foam insert makes the stairs a comfy place to rest too.
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Fairfield Project Foam
I asked the folks at Fairfield to provide some of their 5 inch project foam for this stair design. They’re so generous, that they sent me 2 pieces of foam, plus a roll of batting, and a whole bunch of other goodies too!
The project foam is exactly the consistency I had hoped for. It’s soft enough that I can squish it by pressing hard on it. But it’s also firm enough that it doesn’t compress when Millie walks on it.
For Small Pets Only
My Millie is about 23 lbs. (Check her out on Instagram!) So far, these stairs are holding up well to her weight, without a lot of give.
Since the filling is foam and not a rigid material like wood, it may compress more under a heavier animal. Anything above 25 lbs may be a bit too much for these stairs.
Crochet Pet Stairs and Chair Too!
These stairs were intended to help Millie climb up to her favorite perch where she can look out the window. She learned to use them right away and scrambles up and down them with ease. But sometimes, I find her just relaxing on the stairs themselves!
It turns out the stairs double as a firm but comfy chair. She loves to sit on the bottom step and rest her head on the top. Since Fairfield sent me an extra piece of foam, I plan to make a separate dog bed for her as well.
Red Heart With Love Yarn
For the removable, crochet cover on these pet stairs, Red Heart provided some With Love yarn. The yarn is soft enough that Millie enjoys laying on it, but still sturdy enough to hold up to her climbing up and down. It’s also machine washable, which makes it super easy to keep clean!
Clover Rotary Cutter
Clover sent me a free rotary cutter to try out and review, which I will be doing soon. I used it to score the foam for this project prior to cutting it all the way through. I found it really helped me create a smooth, clean cut line. You don’t absolutely need a rotary cutter to do this project. If you have one though, it does help give it a cleaner finish.
Gluing Foam
Foam is tricky to glue together because it’s a porous surface. Most glues tend to sink in rather than stick to the top. Spray glue is generally the best bet. There are several on the market specifically made for furniture foam and upholstery projects. Some of the stronger multi-purpose spray glues will do the job as well.
Elmers Spray Glue
I got a small bottle of Elmer’s Craft Bond Spray Adhesive in a goodie bag at a conference, so I decided to try it. My first attempt failed. The glue seemed to stick at first, and I left it to cure for a full 24 hours. But later, with a little movement, the top piece fell off.
After a bit of research, I tried again with the same glue. This time, I used about 3 times as much. I more or less emptied the rest of the bottle onto the foam. Again I waited 24 hours, and this time the glue held through some moderate tugging!
Millie has been using the stairs pretty frequently for the last few days, and so far everything is still in place.
Trial and Error
Since the cover on these stairs is removable, it’s ok if the glue doesn’t last forever. If it ever starts to come apart, you can just remove the cover and re-apply, or try something else.
My bottle is nearly empty, so I bought a different glue to try on my next foam project. It’s 3M super 77 and is supposed to be a bit stronger. I’m hoping that means I can use a bit less.
Materials
- Yarn: Red Heart With Love Yarn
- 740 yds #1801 Navy (2 skeins)
- 330 yds #1978 Baroque Stripe (about 1.5 skeins)
- Hook: Size K / 6.5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Fairfield 5″ Project Foam (24 x 36 x 5 inches)
- Marker
- Large knife or cutting tool (a bread knife works well)
- Clover rotary cutter (optional)
- Spray Glue for foam
- 12 stitch markers
- Yarn Needle
Project Level
Intermediate: 3 dimensional project with chevrons and seaming.
Size
24 inches wide x 24 inches deep x 10 inches tall.
Gauge
10 dc x 6.5 rows = 4 inches.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
sc2tog = single crochet next 2 stitches together (see Special Stitches)
sc3tog = single crochet next 3 stitches together (see Special Stitches)
st(s) = stitch(es)
Recommended Resources
Special Stitches
Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog): (Insert hook, yarn over and pull up a loop) in each of next 2 stitches, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Single Crochet 3 Together (sc3tog): (Insert hook, yarn over and pull up a loop) in each of next 3 stitches, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on hook.
Instructions
Stair Form
Measure
Draw a line 12 inches from one short edge of the project foam, all the way around the top, sides, and bottom of your foam. This line should create a 12 x 24 x 5 inch section, and a 24 x 24 x 5 inch section. Double check your measurements before starting to cut.
Cut
This part will likely make a mess – do it outdoors or where you can easily clean up.
Cut through the foam straight down along the line.
I used a ruler and my rotary cutter from Clover to score a straight line all the way around, and then used a bread knife to finish the cut. Go slowly and be careful to keep your cut straight all the way through. A rotary or band saw may work well for this too, if you have one available.
Glue
Do this outdoors or in a well ventilated location. Follow any safety guidelines per your glue bottle.
Place the smaller section on top of the larger section so that both cut edges are lined up at the back. Make any last minute adjustments to the cut as necessary. Note the surfaces that touch – this is where you will spray the glue.
Using spray glue per the instructions on your bottle, spray the bottom of the smaller piece and place it back on top of the larger piece. Allow to set fully before moving.
Cover – Main Section
Main Section Chart
(written instructions below)
Top Back
With A, Ch 62
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (61 sc)
Rows 2-9: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st across. (61 dc)
Check gauge – work should measure about 24 inches wide x 5.75 inches tall.
Row 10: Ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next st, tr in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next st, (sl st in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next st, tr in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next st) across to last st, sc in last st. Change to B, fasten off A. (6 tr points)
Top & Front
In this section, place a marker at each end of rows 11, 37, 48, 74, and 85. These markers fall at the corners of the stairs, for seaming later.
With B,
Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, (sc3tog, sc in next 3 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts) across to last 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts. (61 sts)
Rows 12-85 Repeat row 11.
Change to A, fasten off B
Bottom, and Bottom Back
In this section, place a marker at each end of row 123
With A
Row 86: Ch 3 (counts as tr), tr in same st, dc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, sc3tog, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next st, (3 tr in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, sc3tog, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next st) across to last st, 2 tr in last st. (61 sts)
Rows 87-131: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next st and in each st across.
Row 132: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Fasten off.
Cover – Sides (Make 2)
Sides Chart
(written instructions below)
With A, Ch 62
Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across. (60 dc)
Rows 2-8: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st across. (60 dc)
Row 9: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 29 sts, leaving remaining sts unworked. (30 dc)
Rows 10-16: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st across. (30 dc). Fasten off.
Assembly:
There is no right or wrong side to the fabric until after it is seamed. I found the seaming easier to do with the fabric in place on the stair form, but it can be done flat as well.
Seaming
- Line up stitch markers with corners of one side piece and pin or clip in place. The back sections should meet at the middle of the back.
- Sew seam all the way around side piece.
- Repeat for other side – do not sew back opening closed.
- Weave in all ends.
- Remove stair form through back opening, and turn cover right side out so that seams are on the inside.
Drawstring and Back Closure
- Insert stair form.
- Cut a piece of B about 80 inches long.
- Starting at one end of the back opening, sew in large running stitches around the side, front and other side, ending at the other end of the back opening.
- Starting from the ends and meeting in the middle, sew opening closed using large whip stitches, like lacing a shoe.
- Pull strings snuggly, tucking in fabric to create a crisp line between the steps.
- Tie ends in a bow at the back and trim if necessary.
To remove cover for cleaning, undo the bow and back seam, then pull out stair form.
Rate this Crochet Pet Stairs Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this crochet pet stairs pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Candy Corn Soap Saver Halloween Crochet Pattern
Make yourself a sweet treat for Halloween! Put your favorite bar of soap in this Candy Corn Soap Saver. Crochet lemon peel stitch makes a gentle washcloth texture, while the bag lets you use up every last bit of that special soap. It also makes a great treat bag!
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Scrappy Stitchers Stash Bash Crochet Along
This candy corn soap saver is the August pattern for the 2020 Stash Bash Crochet Along. Each month, I will post a new, stash-busting pattern, and a giveaway prize too! See the giveaway details below, and join in the fun on the Scrappy Stitchers Facebook group. Remember to use the hashtag #ScrappyStitchersStashBash in your social media posts!
Navi’s Handmade – Soaps and More!
Did you notice the shelf full of bath goodies in the main picture? Those bath bombs, bath salts, and sugar scrub all come from my friend Navi of Navi’s Handmade.
I have horribly sensitive skin that breaks out in hives at the least provocation. (Did you know you can actually be allergic to the sun? Apparently it’s true!). I tend to stay away from fancy, scented products because I’m never sure how my skin will react.
I’ve used several of Navi’s bath products now and have never had any sort of skin reaction at all.The scents are lovely too, and his bath bombs have become one of my favorite treats.
Enter the giveaway
Navi is giving one lucky winner 2 handmade soaps, and a eucalyptus clay mask! Note: depending on stock, the soaps may be different than the ones pictured here. Check out the rest of Navi’s Handmade soaps on his website!
To be eligible, you must be 18 years of age or older, with a valid, US shipping address. The winner will be contacted by email, and must reply to that email and provide their selections and shipping address within 1 week in order to receive the prize. If the winner does not reply within 1 week, a new winner will be selected. The giveaway ends on September 9th, 2020 (at 11:59pm, central time). Hurry and enter below!
This giveaway is powered by Rafflecopter, and they may ask for some log-in information if you are not already logged in. See the Rafflecopter privacy policy for more information.
a Rafflecopter giveawayMaterials
- Yarn: Worsted weight, cotton yarn – 25 yds each of yellow, orange, and white.
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Stitch Marker (optional)
Project Level
Easy: Single and double crochet in the round.
Size
3.5 inches wide, 5.5 inches tall, 1.5 inches deep.
Gauge
16 dc x 8 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch – Bottom should measure about 1.5 inches x 3.5 inches. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
rnd = round
Instructions
Entire pattern is worked on the right side, do not turn at the end of rounds.
Bottom
With yellow, ch 10
Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 7 chs, 3 sc in last ch, working in bottoms of chains, sc in bottom of next 7 chains, 2 sc in same ch as start of rnd, join. (20 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in first 8 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in same st as start of rnd, join. (28 sc)
Bag
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, dc in next st, (sc in next st, dc in next st) around, join.
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sc in next st, (dc in next st, sc in next st) around, join.
Rnds 5-12: With orange, repeat rnds 3-4 4 times, changing to white at end of rnd 12.
Rnds 13-16: With white, repeat rnds 3-4 twice.
Rnd 17: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join.
Fasten off, weave in all ends
Drawstring:
With white, ch 75, do not fasten off. Secure working loop with a stitch marker if desired.
Using the opposite end (beginning tail), weave drawstring in and out of rnd 16. You can start either from the center or a long edge, or from a side edge as shown. Go over or under 2 stitches at a time until you get back around to the start.
Once you are happy with the drawstring’s position, sl st into the first st to make a loop.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Place your favorite soap in the soap saver, and pull it closed with the drawstring. Tie a knot in the drawstring to secure it in place.
Rate this Candy Corn Soap Saver Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this soap saver pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Textured Crochet Scarf Pattern – Sheet Metal Scarf
Gear up for fall with the Sheet Metal Scarf. Dressed up or dressed down, the straight, simple lines and ombre, metallic color pairs well with almost any outfit. This textured crochet scarf has a short, easy to learn, repeating pattern, just right for adventurous beginners.
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“Metallic” Yarn
Brenda and Heather Yarns sent me a free yarn sample for this project. It’s their Unicorn Lite base, in the Cyclone colorway. Unicorn Lite is a blend of 65% superwash merino and 35% bamboo. The bamboo gives it a luxurious drape and an almost metallic sheen that you can’t get with the wool alone.
This is a generous, 840 yd skein with one gradient all the way through. Unlike some gradients, it’s a very smooth transition without distinct bands of color. The size of the skein allows for larger projects that really show off this gradual color change.
There was so much yarn in the skein that I ended up having to wind mine into 3 separate cakes – not because the yarn broke or anything, but because I only have a small ball winder. I probably could have managed it in 2 if I had made the first one bigger.
They also sent me a stitch marker and a cute rainbow sheep pin!
Materials
- Yarn: 1 skein Brenda and Heather Unicorn Lite Yarn in Cyclone Gradient. (65% Superwash merino / 35% bamboo, fingering weight, 840yds / 170g per skein)
- Hook: Size F / 3.75 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions: Yarn Needle
Project Level
Easy: Mostly single and double crochet with 2 special stitches.
Size
8 x 72 inches.
Gauge
25 dc x 12 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch – Rows 1-16 should measure about 8 inches x 4 inches.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
csdc = chainless starting double crochet (see Special Stitches)
cohdc = cross over half double crochet (see Special Stitches)
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
Special Stitches
Chainless Starting Double Crochet (csdc): Pull working loop up to the height of a dc. Holding loop in place, twist hook forward and around loop to create a “yarn over”.
Insert hook into first stitch, yo and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on your hook. (Yarn over and pull through 2 loops) twice.
The CSDC replaces the ch 3 at the start of a dc row. It creates a cleaner edge. If you prefer, you can work ch 3 (counts as a dc) instead of csdc wherever you see it.
Crossover Half Double Crochet (cohdc): Working around the previous three stitches, yarn over, insert hook in skipped stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop to the height of the current stitch.
Yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook.
Instructions
Ch 51 (multiple of 4 + 3)
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (50 sc)
Row 2: Turn, csdc, (sk next st, dc in next 3 sts, cohdc) across, dc in last st. (50 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (50 sc)
Repeat rows 2-3 until you run out of yarn or to desired length, ending after a repeat of row 3.
Pattern is reversible, there is no right or wrong side.
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Rate this Textured Crochet Scarf Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this textured crochet scarf pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Easy Crochet Scrubbie – Mostly Mesh
Clean up with the Mostly Mesh Scrubbie! This easy crochet scrubbie pattern works up fast with a rolled mesh tube construction. A solid back with a handle helps hold it all together and makes it easy to use too.
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CAL Central Scrubbie Crochet Along
This pattern was designed for the 2020 Scrubbie Crochet Along at CAL Central. Join the fun on Facebook and Ravelry! Learn more and see the full schedule in this intro post.
Premier Home Cotton Yarn
For my scrubbie I chose Premier Home Cotton yarn, which I got in a goodie bag at a conference several years ago. The color is called Delft Blue.
This yarn is a blend of 85% cotton and 15% polyester. The polyester gives it a little extra strength and durability, so it’s perfect for scrubbies like this that will get a lot of hard use.
Rolling up the Mesh Tube
This easy crochet scrubbie pattern starts out as a long, mesh tube. To make it into a scrubbie, roll the tube up into a tight doughnut.
Sewing it closed at the end is optional. If you don’t sew it closed, then you can easily open it out all the way for quick washing and drying. I decided to sew mine closed so it would stay together well, even with heavy scrubbing.
Materials
- Yarn: 50 yds worsted weight yarn
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Stitch Marker
Project Level
Easy: Basic stitches in a repeating pattern.
Size
About 3.5 inches in diameter and 1.5 inches thick when rolled up.
Gauge
14 sc x 15 rows = 4 inches.
Use pattern as gauge swatch – Top (rnds 1-5) should measure about 2.5 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical for this pattern.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
ch-sp = chain space
rnd = round
RS = right side
Recommended Resources
- Continuous rounds and running stitch markers
- Why continuous rounds shift
- Rolling a Mesh Tube into a Scrubbie
Instructions
Except for handle, the entire pattern is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark first stitch of each round.
Top
Leaving an 8 inch tail, ch 2.
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Working in back loops only, 2 sc in each st around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: Working in back loops only,(2 sc in next st, sc in next st) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: Working in back loops only, (2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts) around, sl st in next st. Do not fasten off. (24 sc)
Handle
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same st and next 2 sts. (3 sc)
Row 2-12: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sc)
Row 13: Ch 1, turn. With RS of top facing, sk next 9 st on top, sl st in next 3 sts of handle and top together. Do not fasten off.
Mesh Tube
Rnd 1 (WS): Working into top: Ch 5, turn, sk first 3 sts where handle is joined, sc in next st, (ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in next st) 5 times. (6 sc, 6 ch-5 sps)
For rnds 2-25, sk all sc and work only into ch-5 sps.
Rnds 2-25: (Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp) 6 times.
Fasten off, weave in ending tail.
If you do not plan to sew the scrubbie closed, weave in starting tail as well.
Assembly
Make sure scrubbie is right side out, with handle on the outside.
Grasp open end of tube and fold the edges inwards.
Continue rolling the tube inwards tightly, until it rests firmly against top. (See video above or in Recommended Resources section)
Optional: Using starting tail, sew back and forth through the mesh and center of top, pulling it together tightly at the center. Weave in end.
Rate this Easy Crochet Scrubbie Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this easy crochet scrubbie pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Crochet Amigurumi Rabbit – Sunny the Baby Bunny
Sunny the Baby Bunny is hopping your way to spread a little joy! How can you not smile when you look at that cute little nose and chubby cheeks? This easy crochet amigurumi rabbit pattern is perfect for new softie makers. Get a head start on next year’s Easter baskets, but remember to make yourself one too!
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Baby Buddies
Sunny is similar in style and design to his friends, Bravo the Bear Cub, Awesome the Baby Elephant and Noble the Lion Cub. Make them all!
Color Choices
Bunnies come in lots of colors. I chose white for mine, but you could use any shade of white, grey, black or brown for a realistic rabbit. Or have some fun and try other color combinations – maybe even a rainbow bunny!
I used Paintbox Simply Aran in #202 Champagne White and #252 Ballet Pink. These were stash yarns, left over from other projects. I love the wide array of available colors in this yarn, so I always seem to have a lot of it in my stash.
Poly Fil Premium Fiber Fill
Fairfield World generously sent me lots of Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber Filling for these softie designs. This is my go to stuffing material for all my crochet amigurumi patterns because it’s so soft and squishy and easy to use.
My favorite stuffing tip is to tear the stuffing into small bits and stuff just a little at a time, rather than trying to put a whole handful in all at once. This creates a smoother finish and avoids clumps and lumps.
Materials
- Yarn: Worsted weight yarn
- 75 yds main color (A – shown in white)
- 15 yds accent color (B – shown in pink)
- Hook: Size H/ 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Fairfield Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber Filling
- Yarn Needle
- 2 Stitch Markers or scraps of yarn to use as markers.
- 1 yd black or dark brown embroidery floss
Project Level
Easy: Mostly single crochet in the round, with some increases and decreases.
Size
7 inches tall not counting ears.
Gauge
14 sc x 14 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch – Rounds 1 – 4 should measure 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
dec = decrease (see Special Stitches)
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
ch-sp = chain space
rnd = round
RS = right side
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of next st, then sc in both loops of the same st. See full tutorial here.
Decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Instructions
Body
Except for ears, pattern is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark first stitch of each round.
With A, ch 2
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Inc around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (Inc in next st, sc in next st) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts) around. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 6: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts) around. (30 sc)
Rnds 7-10: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 11: (Dec, sc in each of next 3 sts) around. (24 sts)
Rnds 12-15: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 16: (Dec, sc in each of next 2 sts) around. (18 sts)
Rnds 17-18: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 19: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sts)
Stuff body most of the way full and continue stuffing as you go.
Head
Rnds 20-21: Repeat rnds 3-4
Rnd 22: Sc in next 8 sts, inc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts, inc in each of next 2 sts, sc in last 8 sts. (28 sts)
Rnd 23: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 24: Sc in next 9 sts, dec twice, sc in next 4 sts, dec twice, sc in last 7 sts. (24 sts)
The increases and decreases in rnds 22-24 form the “cheeks”.
Rnd 25: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 26: (Dec, sc in next 2 sts) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 27: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sc)
Rnd 28: Dec around. (6 sc)
Fasten off.
Finish stuffing head.
Place a stitch marker centered between cheeks to help with nose placement later.
Using tails, sew top of head and bottom of body closed, then weave in ends.
Ear (make 2)
Inner Ear:
With B, ch 3
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in last ch. (2 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in each st across. (4 sts)
Rows 4-10: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, dec, sc in last st. (3 sts)
Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 13: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in last st. (2 sts)
Row 14: Ch 1, turn, dec. (1 st)
Fasten off.
Outer ear:
Join A with sl st in bottom of row 1 of inner ear (it doesn’t matter which side is facing). Leave an 8 inch tail for sewing.
Row 1: Working across bottom of inner ear, sc in each st across. (2 sts)
Rows 2 -14: Repeat rows 2-14 of inner ear. Do not fasten off.
Fold inner ear up so that it rests on top of outer ear.
Edging Rnd (RS): Working through both layers around sides of rows, ch 1, sc in each row to bottom, ch 1, skip bottom of stitches, sc in each row to top, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off. (28 sts, 1 ch)
Weave in all tails except for the long tail for sewing.
Finishing:
Sew ears to head using the long tail. Pinch the bottom edges together slightly while sewing, to make the ear curve. You can sew them hanging down for floppy ears as shown, or sticking up.
Weave in all ends.
With B, embroider a nose just at the top of the cheeks and centered between them and a mouth coming down from the nose.
Try a little needle sculpting to accentuate the cheeks and make them puff out more: When you’re finished sewing the nose and mouth, bring the tail down through the base of the nose and out through the back of the head. Pull gently to make the nose sink in slightly, then weave in the tail where it will be hidden by the ears.
Separate strands of black embroidery thread. Using 2 strands, embroider an eye on each side of the nose.
Optional: Make a small pom pom with A, and sew it to the back for a tail. You may want to skip this for baby toys, as the strands of the pom pom can be pulled loose by little fingers.
Rate this Crochet Amigurumi Rabbit Pattern!
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Pom Pom Wall Hanging Crochet Pattern
What could be better for using up scraps than fun, fuzzy pom poms? Turn your stash into a lovely pom pom wall hanging with a crochet background!
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Scrappy Stitchers Stash Bash Crochet Along
This pom pom wall hanging is the July pattern for the 2020 Stash Bash Crochet Along. Each month, I will post a new, stash-busting pattern, and a giveaway prize too! See the giveaway details below, and join in the fun on the Scrappy Stitchers Facebook group. Remember to use the hashtag #ScrappyStitchersStashBash in your social media posts!
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
My stash yarns
I mostly used Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran for my wall hanging. I have a lot of this yarn left over from lots of different projects, and mostly in little bits of various colors.
- Background green: 224 Pistachio Green
- Dark purple pom poms: 248 Dark Aubergine
- Pink pom poms: 243 Raspberry Pink
- Darker green strings: 230 Evergreen
I ran a bit short on the dark purple, so filled in with 4 lighter purple pom poms. I’m not sure what yarn those are, though they may have been Red Heart Soft in 9528 Lilac.
Get Creative!
The joy of scrap projects is that you can use as few or as many colors as you like. Mix up your pom pom colors, or even use multiple colors on the background. You could vary the sizes of the pom poms too, but keep in mind that will change the amount of yarn you need. Anything goes, so experiment, and make it your own!
Choosing a Stick
You can hang your wall hanging on any stick that is at least 20 inches long, and no more than about 1.5 inches in diameter. For mine, I chose one of the lease sticks that came with my loom. It’s a little shorter than I would have liked, but I never use them, so it was handy and available.
You can use a dowel, a fairly straight branch from a tree, or even a pvc pipe. If you do want to use a stick that is thicker, just remember to make your hanging loops a little taller to accommodate it.
Clover Pom Pom Makers
There are lots of different ways to make pom poms, but the one I’ve found fastest and easiest is these pom pom makers from Clover.
Learn how to use these pom pom makers in this great tutorial from Jessie at Home. You can also watch my demo in this Lunchtime Live video. Here’s a quick overview on Tangi.
For my wall hanging I chose the pink, 1 3/8 inch size. I’ve had this small set at home for years, and it’s not the same set as the giveaway prize.
Enter the giveaway
Clover is providing their new and improved Pom Pom Maker Set as a prize for one lucky winner! This set includes the 4 most popular sizes: 1 3/8 inch, 2 1/2 inch, 1 3/4 inch and 3 3/8 inch.
Unlike mine, each of these pom pom makers has a measuring scale of raised ridges around the edge. These can be used to make multi-colored pom poms with perfectly measured sections of color. Enter below for your chance to win this great set!
To be eligible, you must be 18 years of age or older, with a valid, US shipping address. The winner will be contacted by email, and must reply to that email and provide their selections and shipping address within 1 week in order to receive the prize. If the winner does not reply within 1 week, a new winner will be selected. The giveaway ends on August 5th, 2020 (at 11:59pm, central time). Hurry and enter below!
This giveaway is powered by Rafflecopter, and they may ask for some log-in information if you are not already logged in. See the Rafflecopter privacy policy for more information.
a Rafflecopter giveawayMaterials
- Yarn: Worsted weight yarn.
- 100 yds for crochet background
- 125-200 yds for 30 pom poms – this will vary a lot depending on how full you make your pom poms.
- 10 yds for hanging strings
- Hook: Size I / 5.5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- 1 3/8 inch Clover Pom Pom Maker
- Stitch marker or scrap of yarn.
- Stick or dowel rod at least 20 inches long for hanging, and no more than about 1.5 inches in diameter
Project Level
Easy: Pom poms and a basic granny square triangle with a border.
Size
Crochet background: 18 inches wide x 11 inches tall
With pom poms and hanging loops, approx 18 inches wide x 19 inches tall.
Gauge
11 dc x 6 rows = 4 inches.
Use pattern as gauge swatch – After row 3, base should measure 4 inches wide x 2 inches tall.
Exact gauge is not critical for this project.
Instructions
Background
Ch 3 at the start of a row counts as a dc. For a neater finish, try the chainless starting double crochet instead of the ch 3!
Granny Triangle
Ch 4
Row 1: (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in 3rd ch from hook. (6 dc – counting the 3 skipped chs as a stitch)
Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, turn, 2 dc in same st, ch 1, sk next 2 sts, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, sk next 2 sts, 3 dc in last st. (12 dc)
Row 3: Ch 3, turn, 2 dc in same st, ch 1, sk next 2 sts, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next 2 sts, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, sk next 2 sts, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next 2 sts, 3 dc in last st. (18 dc)
Rows 4-12: Ch 3, turn, 2 dc in same st, ch 1, sk next 2 sts, [3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next 2 sts] across to next ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3dc) in ch-2 sp, ch 1, sk next 2 sts, [3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next 2 sts] across to last st, 3 dc in last st. (72 dc on row 12)
Top border:
Row 13: Do not turn. Ch 1, working into sides of rows, 2 sc in each row to center, sc in center, 2 sc in each row to end. (49 sc)
Row 14: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and each st across. (49 dc)
Row 15: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. Fasten off. (49 sc)
Weave in ends. For best results, wash and block.
Pom Poms and Strings
Make 30, 1 3/8 inch pom poms.
Cut the following lengths of yarn for stringing the pom poms:
- 1 – 54 inch piece
- 2 -48 inch pieces
- 2 -42 inch pieces
- 2 -36 inch pieces
Assembly
Place crocheted triangle background flat on a work surface with right side up. The border should be on top.
Note that the chain spaces line up in vertical columns. There will be 3 empty columns between each string of pom poms.
Center String:
Find and mark the center stitch on row 15 of the top border. This is the 25th stitch from either edge. Using the 54 inch string:
- Fold the string in half, forming a loop at the top. Tie a knot 2 inches down from the fold, creating a 2-inch hanging loop.
- Place this knot above the marked stitch. Lay one of the two ends over your work. Bring the other end up from behind your work, through the top of the dc stitch below. Remove marker
- Tie both ends in a knot, leaving enough of a gap not to distort the stitches.
- Thread both ends on a needle and sew through the center of the first pom pom. Push the pom pom up to rest against the knot.
- Working along the column of chain spaces directly below, bring your needle down through the first space, then up through the next one.
- Bring your needle down through the next space and up through the next one once more.
- Sew through the next pom pom, then repeat step 6 twice.
- Repeat step 7 once more. This should bring you to the bottom point.
- Sew through the next pom pom, slide it up against the bottom edge, and tie a knot underneath it to hold it in place.
- Sew through another pom pom and slide it up the string until there is roughly a 2 inch gap (end to end) between the two pom poms. Tie a knot underneath it to hold it in this position.
- Repeat Step 10 for the last pom pom.
- Sew the ends back up and down through the pom pom 2 or 3 times, then trim them off close to the center of the pom pom.
For the remaining strings, instead of measuring 2 inches between the hanging pom poms, you can try to line them up evenly with the adjacent string instead. Either way is fine, whichever is easier for you.
String 2
Count 8 stitches to the right of the previous column and mark the 8th stitch.
- With a 48 inch string, repeat steps 1-7 of center string. This should bring you to the bottom edge.
- Skip step 8 and repeat steps 9-12 of center string.
String 3
Count 8 stitches to the right of the previous column and mark the 8th stitch.
- With a 42 inch string, repeat steps 1-6 of center string. This should bring you to the bottom edge.
- Skip steps 7-8 and repeat steps 9-12 of center string.
String 4
Count 8 more stitches to the right of the previous column – this should bring you to the very last stitch at the corner. Working into that stitch:
- With a 36 inch string, repeat steps 1-3 of center string. Since we’re at the corner, we’re already at the bottom edge.
- Skip steps 4-8 and repeat steps 9-12 of center string.
Strings 5-7
Working to the left of the center instead of to the right, repeat strings 2-4.
Insert hanging rod through the loops and hang as desired.
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Crochet Amigurumi Bear – Bravo the Bear Cub
Bravo is a brave little bear cub on the hunt for some fun! He loves to play with his friends, eat tasty treats, and of course get big bear hugs. This easy crochet amigurumi bear pattern is perfect for new softie makers. Mix and match colors for a one-of-a-kind creation!
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Best Friends
Bravo is similar in style and design to his friends, Awesome the Baby Elephant and Noble the Lion Cub. Make them all!
Color Choices
I made my bear with yarn from my stash, so I chose a tan body with an off-white muzzle. Bears come in all shades of white, grey, brown, and black, so any combination of those colors should work. Mix and match for a one-of-a-kind, crochet amigurumi bear cub that’s all your own!
Poly Fil Premium Fiber Fill
Fairfield World generously sent me lots of Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber Filling for these softie designs. This is my go to stuffing material for all my crochet amigurumi patterns because it’s so soft and squishy and easy to use.
My favorite stuffing tip is to tear the stuffing into small bits and stuff just a little at a time, rather than trying to put a whole handful in all at once. This creates a smoother finish and avoids clumps and lumps.
Materials
- Yarn: Worsted weight yarn
- 65 yds main color (A – shown in tan)
- 10 yds accent color (B – shown in cream)
- Hook: Size H/ 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Fairfield Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber Filling
- Yarn Needle
- Stitch Marker or scrap of yarn to use as running stitch marker.
- 1 yd black or dark brown embroidery floss
Project Level
Easy: Mostly single crochet in the round, with some increases and decreases.
Size
7 inches tall not counting ears.
Gauge
14 sc x 14 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch – Rounds 1 – 4 should measure 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
dec = decrease (see Special Stitches)
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
ch-sp = chain space
rnd = round
RS = right side
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of next st, then sc in both loops of the same st. See full tutorial here.
Decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Instructions
Body
Except for ears, pattern is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark first stitch of each round.
With A, ch 2
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Inc around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (Inc in next st, sc in next st) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts) around. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 6: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts) around. (30 sc)
Rnds 7-10: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 11: (Dec, sc in each of next 3 sts) around. (24 sts)
Rnds 12-15: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 16: (Dec, sc in each of next 2 sts) around. (18 sts)
Rnds 17-18: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 19: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sts)
Stuff body most of the way full and continue stuffing as you go.
Head
Rnds 20-22: Repeat rnds 3-5
Rnd 23: Sc in next 6 sts, ch 6, sk next 6 sts, sc in last 12 sts. (18 sc and ch-6 sp for muzzle)
Rnd 24: Sc in each st and each ch around. (24 sc)
Rnd 25: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 26: (Dec, sc in next 2 sts) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 27: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sc)
Rnd 28: Dec around. (6 sc)
Fasten off.
Using tails, sew top of head and bottom of body closed, then weave in ends.
Finish stuffing head through muzzle opening.
Muzzle
With RS facing, join B with sl st in any st or ch around muzzle opening.
Rnd 1: Work 14 sc evenly spaced around muzzle opening.
This works out to 1 sc in each st, 1 sc in the bottom of each ch, and 1 extra sc in each side, where the stitches and chains meet.
Rnd 2: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 3:(Dec, sc in next 5 sts) twice. (12 sts)
Rnd 4: Dec around. Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch tail for sewing. (6 sts)
Stuff muzzle.
Use tail to sew muzzle closed.
Ear (make 2)
Inner Ear:
With B, ch 2
Row 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (3 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in each st across, fasten off B. (6 sc)
Outer ear:
Join A with sl st in base of inner ear (the bottom of the chain that you worked into for row 1)
Row 1: Ch 1, 3 sc in same st, do not join. (3 sc)
Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, turn 2 sc in each st across. (6 sc)
Fold inner ear up so that it rests on top of outer ear, with RS facing.
Rnd 3 (RS): Do not turn. Continuing around ear and working through both layers, Ch 1, 2sc in each st around, join with sl st to starting ch, fasten off leaving a 10 inch tail for sewing. (12 sts)
Continuing around rather than turning will cause the ear to pucker / fold in on itself slightly at the bottom, making it more rounded.
Finishing:
Sew ears to head using the tails.
Weave in all ends.
Separate strands of black embroidery floss. With 2 strands, embroider a nose across the muzzle seam, a mouth coming down from the nose, and an eye on each side of the muzzle.
Rate this Crochet Amigurumi Bear Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this crochet amigurumi bear pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!