Breezy the Baby Bat is a laid back kinda guy who loves hanging out with his batty friends. This Halloween crochet amigurumi pattern works up quickly, so you can make a whole colony!
CAL Central Halloween CAL
I designed this Halloween crochet amigurumi pattern for the 2020 Halloween CAL at CAL Central Crochet. Follow along on the CAL Central Crochet Facebook group for more crochet amigurumi patterns. Share your CAL pictures (we love to see all the projects) and don’t forget to enter the giveaway!
Batty about Bats
Bats may look spooky, but they’re really our friends! They help pollinate plants and eat a lot of annoying bugs like mosquitoes. Just like real bats, Breezy is a sociable creature, used to hanging out (literally) with a large colony. So be sure to make him some friends too!
Real bats come in all shades of grey, black, and brown, and there are even a few white (albino) bats! I chose grey and black, but you can get creative with any color combination. Go neutral for a realistic look, or try something different for fun.
Fairfield World generously sent me lots of Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber Filling for these softie designs. This is my go to stuffing material for all my crochet amigurumi patterns because it’s so soft and squishy and easy to use.
My favorite stuffing tip is to tear the stuffing into small bits and stuff just a little at a time, rather than trying to put a whole handful in all at once. This creates a smoother finish and avoids clumps and lumps.
- Yarn: Worsted weight yarn
- 75 yds main color (A – shown in grey)
- 75 yds accent color (B – shown in black)
- Hook: Size H/ 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Fairfield Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber Filling
- Yarn Needle
- Stitch Marker or scrap of yarn to use as marker.
Intermediate: Mostly single crochet in the round, with some increases and multiple types of decreases.
7 inches tall not counting ears.
14 sc x 14 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch – Rounds 1 – 4 should measure 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical.
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
fpdc = front post double crochet
sc3tog = single crochet next 3 stitches together (see Special Stitches)
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
dec = decrease (see Special Stitches)
dbl dec = double decrease (see Special Stitches)
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
ch-sp = chain space
rnd = round
RS = right side
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of next st, then sc in both loops of the same st. See full tutorial here.
Decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Double Decrease (dbl dec): Insert hook into front loop only of all of next 3 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. This is a much less bulky alternative to an sc3tog, and is used at the tips of the ears only.
Single Crochet 3 Together (sc3tog): (Insert hook into next st, yo and pull up a loop) 3 times, yo and pull through all 4 loops on hook.
Picot: Ch 3, sl st into last st made before the ch 3. (See full tutorial here)
Body, head, and muzzle are worked in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark first stitch of each round.
With A, ch 2
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Inc around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (Inc in next st, sc in next st) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts) around. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 6: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts) around. (30 sc)
Rnds 7-10: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 11: (Dec, sc in each of next 3 sts) around. (24 sts)
Rnds 12-15: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 16: (Dec, sc in each of next 2 sts) around. (18 sts)
Rnds 17-18: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 19: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sts)
Stuff body most of the way full and continue stuffing as you go.
Rnds 20-22: Repeat rnds 3-5
Rnd 23: Sc in next 6 sts, ch 6, sk next 6 sts, sc in last 12 sts. (18 sc and ch-6 sp for muzzle)
Rnd 24: Sc in each st and each ch around. (24 sc)
Rnd 25: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 26: (Dec, sc in next 2 sts) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 27: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sc)
Rnd 28: Dec around. (6 sc)
Using tails, sew top of head and bottom of body closed, then weave in all ends.
Finish stuffing head through muzzle opening.
With RS facing, join A with sl st in any st or ch around muzzle opening.
Rnd 1: Work 14 sc evenly spaced around muzzle opening.
This works out to 1 sc in each st, 1 sc in the bottom of each ch, and 1 extra sc in each side, where the stitches and chains meet.
Rnd 2: (Dec, sc in next 5 sts) twice. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (Dec, sc in next 2 sts) around. (9 sts)
Rnd 4: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (6 sts)
Fasten off leaving an 8 inch tail
If needed, you can use the back of your hook, a knitting needle, a chopstick, or other similar tool to push the stuffing into the muzzle.
Using tail, sew muzzle closed and weave in all ends.
With B, ch 38
Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 6 chs, sk next ch, dc in next ch, sk next ch, sc in next 8 chs, 3 sc in next ch, sc in next 8 chs, sk next ch, dc in next ch, sk next ch, sc in next 6 chs, 2 sc in last ch. (35 sc, 2 dc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 6 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 8 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in last st. (37 sts)
Row 3: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 6 sts, sk next st, fpdc in next dc one row below, sk next st, sc in next 8 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, sk next st, fpdc dc in next dc one row below, sk next st, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in last st. (35 sc, 2 fpdc)
Rows 4-7: Repeat rows 2-3 twice.
- Bottom: Ch 1, (dc, sc) in first st, sc in next 7 sts, sl st in next st, sc in next 9 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts, sl st in next st, sc in next 7 sts, (sc, dc, ch-1) in next st. (39 sts, 2 sl sts)
- Side: Working in sides of rows, work 8 sc evenly spaced across to top. (8 sc)
- Top: Working in bottom of row 1, (sc, picot, sc) in first st, sc in next 7 sts, (sc, picot, sc) in next st, sc in next 9 sts, sl st in next st, sc in next 9 sts, (sc, picot, sc) in next st, sc in next 7 sts, (sc, picot, sc) in next st. (40 sc, 4 picots, 1 sl st)
- Side: Working in sides of rows, work 8 sc evenly spaced to beginning of round. (8 sc)
Weave in all ends. Wash and block wings.
You can stiffen the wings with fabric stiffener or glue if desired – the sample shown has not been stiffened.
Ear (make 2)
With B, ch 2, leaving an 8 inch tail for sewing.
Row 1: 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (4 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in last st. (6 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, dec twice, sc in last st. (4 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, dec, sc in last st. (3 sts)
Row 5: Dbl dec. (1 st)
Edging Rnd: Do not turn, working around outside edge of ear, work 10 sl st evenly spaced around. This should make the ear curl in slightly.
Fasten off. Weave in ending tail.
Sew ears to head using the starting tail.
Weave in all ends.
With B, embroider nose and eyes.
Center wings on back of body, starting at the base of the head, so that the post stitches show at the front. The picots should be on the top of the wings.
Sew wings to body down center line. Sew an additional seam one stitch over on each side of center line.
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I hope you enjoyed this crochet amigurumi bat pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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