Sunny the Baby Bunny is hopping your way to spread a little joy! How can you not smile when you look at that cute little nose and chubby cheeks? This easy crochet amigurumi rabbit pattern is perfect for new softie makers. Get a head start on next year’s Easter baskets, but remember to make yourself one too!
Bunnies come in lots of colors. I chose white for mine, but you could use any shade of white, grey, black or brown for a realistic rabbit. Or have some fun and try other color combinations – maybe even a rainbow bunny!
I used Paintbox Simply Aran in #202 Champagne White and #252 Ballet Pink. These were stash yarns, left over from other projects. I love the wide array of available colors in this yarn, so I always seem to have a lot of it in my stash.
Fairfield World generously sent me lots of Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber Filling for these softie designs. This is my go to stuffing material for all my crochet amigurumi patterns because it’s so soft and squishy and easy to use.
My favorite stuffing tip is to tear the stuffing into small bits and stuff just a little at a time, rather than trying to put a whole handful in all at once. This creates a smoother finish and avoids clumps and lumps.
- Yarn: Worsted weight yarn
- 75 yds main color (A – shown in white)
- 15 yds accent color (B – shown in pink)
- Hook: Size H/ 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Fairfield Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber Filling
- Yarn Needle
- 2 Stitch Markers or scraps of yarn to use as markers.
- 1 yd black or dark brown embroidery floss
Easy: Mostly single crochet in the round, with some increases and decreases.
7 inches tall not counting ears.
14 sc x 14 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch – Rounds 1 – 4 should measure 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical.
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
dec = decrease (see Special Stitches)
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
ch-sp = chain space
rnd = round
RS = right side
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of next st, then sc in both loops of the same st. See full tutorial here.
Decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Except for ears, pattern is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark first stitch of each round.
With A, ch 2
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Inc around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (Inc in next st, sc in next st) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts) around. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 6: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts) around. (30 sc)
Rnds 7-10: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 11: (Dec, sc in each of next 3 sts) around. (24 sts)
Rnds 12-15: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 16: (Dec, sc in each of next 2 sts) around. (18 sts)
Rnds 17-18: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 19: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sts)
Stuff body most of the way full and continue stuffing as you go.
Rnds 20-21: Repeat rnds 3-4
Rnd 22: Sc in next 8 sts, inc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts, inc in each of next 2 sts, sc in last 8 sts. (28 sts)
Rnd 23: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 24: Sc in next 9 sts, dec twice, sc in next 4 sts, dec twice, sc in last 7 sts. (24 sts)
The increases and decreases in rnds 22-24 form the “cheeks”.
Rnd 25: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 26: (Dec, sc in next 2 sts) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 27: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sc)
Rnd 28: Dec around. (6 sc)
Finish stuffing head.
Place a stitch marker centered between cheeks to help with nose placement later.
Using tails, sew top of head and bottom of body closed, then weave in ends.
Ear (make 2)
With B, ch 3
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in last ch. (2 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in each st across. (4 sts)
Rows 4-10: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, dec, sc in last st. (3 sts)
Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 13: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in last st. (2 sts)
Row 14: Ch 1, turn, dec. (1 st)
Join A with sl st in bottom of row 1 of inner ear (it doesn’t matter which side is facing). Leave an 8 inch tail for sewing.
Row 1: Working across bottom of inner ear, sc in each st across. (2 sts)
Rows 2 -14: Repeat rows 2-14 of inner ear. Do not fasten off.
Fold inner ear up so that it rests on top of outer ear.
Edging Rnd (RS): Working through both layers around sides of rows, ch 1, sc in each row to bottom, ch 1, skip bottom of stitches, sc in each row to top, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off. (28 sts, 1 ch)
Weave in all tails except for the long tail for sewing.
Sew ears to head using the long tail. Pinch the bottom edges together slightly while sewing, to make the ear curve. You can sew them hanging down for floppy ears as shown, or sticking up.
Weave in all ends.
With B, embroider a nose just at the top of the cheeks and centered between them and a mouth coming down from the nose.
Try a little needle sculpting to accentuate the cheeks and make them puff out more: When you’re finished sewing the nose and mouth, bring the tail down through the base of the nose and out through the back of the head. Pull gently to make the nose sink in slightly, then weave in the tail where it will be hidden by the ears.
Separate strands of black embroidery thread. Using 2 strands, embroider an eye on each side of the nose.
Optional: Make a small pom pom with A, and sew it to the back for a tail. You may want to skip this for baby toys, as the strands of the pom pom can be pulled loose by little fingers.
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I hope you enjoyed this crochet amigurumi bear pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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