Free Pattern – Windy Square

This “windy” blanket square makes me think of a gentle, warm breeze on a bright spring day. I wanted the design to be solid, but still feel light and airy. The yarn that immediately came to mind is Anne Geddes Baby yarn by Red Heart. It’s soft and squishy like a billowy cloud, with a subtle hint of sheen. It’s a great weight for a baby blanket, and the acrylic / nylon blend means it’s strong and machine washable too.

I’m working on another square that will coordinate with this one, and should have that for you soon – be sure to follow this blog so you don’t miss it! See the “follow this blog” options on the sidebar (desktop) or below (mobile).

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Windy blanket square

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Materials:

• Anne Geddes Baby Yarn: 65-75 yds Bluebell:
• Size G / 6 (4.25 mm) hook
• Yarn or tapestry needle

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Difficulty:

Intermediate – puff stitches, front post stitches (cables), and working in the sides of rows for edging.

Size:

8″ square.

Gauge:

15 sc x 18 rows = 4″ square.

Abbreviations used:

• ch = chain
• fsc = foundation single crochet
• sc = single crochet
• sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together
• fpdc = front post double crochet
• fptr = front post treble crochet
• puff = puff stitch (see special stitches)
• yo = yarn over
• sl st = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• sp(s) = space(s)
• sk = skip
• rnd = round
• RS = right side

Special Stitch:

Puff stitch (puff):

Yo, insert hook from front to back around post of the stitch BELOW the next st, as though to work a front post stitch,

draw up a loop to the height of the current row. Repeat 2 more times, so there are a total of 7 loops on hook.

 

Make sure all loops are even and at the height of the current row, yo and pull through 6 loops (leaving 2 loops on the hook), then yo and pull through the last 2 loops.

  

Skip the stitch directly behind the puff.

Notes:

• Foundation stitches are recommended for the first row, however an alternate first row is provided for those who prefer a starting chain.
• The cables (front post stitches) are done in such a way that they lay on top of the fabric, so the back comes out smooth. Generally speaking, the fp stitches are worked as extra stitches on the right side, (added between two other stitches, without skipping any stitches behind them) and are skipped on the wrong side (except once at the top of each curve). Please pay close attention in the pattern to when stitches should be skipped and when they should not be.
• The written instructions may seem complicated in some spots, but it’s really all about where to place those post stitches, so referring to the cable diagram should help. The cable diagram provided is NOT a crochet pattern chart. It is just a diagram to help with placement of the puff and post stitches and should be used as a visual aid WITH the written instructions, not instead of them.

Recommended Resources:

• Foundation Single Crochet by Kim Guzman
• Decreases: sc2tog & dc2tog by Moogly
• How to crochet front and back post stitches (left handed) by CrochetChiq
• Front and back post crochet by Jessie at Home
• Working Into the Edge by Moogly

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Square:

Row 1 (RS): 28 fsc OR ch 29, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (28 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, (puff, sc in next st) 12 times, sc in last st.

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc and in top of each puff across (28 sc)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 sts, (puff, sc in next st) 13 times.

Row 6: Repeat row 4.

Rows 7-8: Repeat rows 3 – 4.

Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 6 sts, (puff, sc in next st) 9 times, sc in last 4 sts.

Row 10: Repeat Row 4.

Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 5 sts, (puff, sc in next st) 4 times, sc in next 2 sts, (puff, sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 7 sts.

Row 12: repeat Row 4

Reminder – When working the front post stitches (right side rows), do NOT skip a stitch behind the post stitch unless specifically told to do so.

Row 13: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 6 sts, (puff, sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 2 sts, fpdc around post of stitch 2 rows below the stitch you just made (this should be the sc that’s right in the middle between the two sets of puff stitches on row 11 – see cable diagram), sc in next 14 sts.

Row 14: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 14 sts, sk next st (this is the fpdc from the previous row), sc in each sc and each puff across. (28 sc)

Row 15: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 14 sts, fpdc around fpdc from row 13, sc in next 3 sts, fpdc around post of stitch 2 rows below the stitch you just made, sc in next 11 sts.

Row 16: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 11 sts, sk next st, sc in next 3 sts, sk next st, sc in last 14 sts. (28 sc)

Row 17: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 12 sts, fpdc around post of stitch 2 rows below the stitch you just made, sc in next 2 sts, fpdc around first fpdc from row 15, sc in next 3 sts, fpdc around next fpdc from row 15, sc in last 11 sts.

Row 18: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 11 sts, sk next st, sc in next 3 sts, sk next st, sc in next 2 sts, sk next st, sc in last 12 sts. (28 sc)

Row 19: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 11 sts, fpdc around first post st from row 17, sc in next 3 sts, fpdc around next post st from row 17, sc in next 4 sts, fpdc around next post st from row 17, sc in next 3 sts, fptr around the stitch that is 2 rows below and 2 stitches to the left (ahead) of the stitch you just worked, sc in next 4 sts, fptr around the same st that you used for the last fptr, sc in last 3 sts.

Row 20: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 3 sts, sk next st, sc in next 4 sts, sk next st, sc in next 3 sts, sk next st, sc in next 4 sts, sk next st, sc in next 3 sts, sk next st, sc in next 11 sts. (28 sc)

Row 21: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 3 sts, fptr around the stitch that is 2 rows below and 2 stitches to the left (ahead) of the stitch you just worked, sc in next 4 sts, fptr around the same st that you used for the last fptr, sc in next 3 sts, fpdc around first post st from row 19, sc in next 4 sts, fpdc around next post st from row 19, sc in next 6 sts, fptr around next post st from row 19, sc in next 5 sts, ignore next post st from row 17 and fpdc around the last post st from row 17, sc in last 3 sts.

Row 22: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 3 sts, sk next st, sc in next 5 sts, sk next st, sc in next 6 sts, sk next st, sc in next 4 sts, sk next st, sc in next 3 sts, sk next st, sc in next 4 sts, sk next st, sc in last 3 sts. (28 sc)

Row 23: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, fpdc around first post st from row 21, sc in next 6 sts, fpdc around 3rd post st from row 21 (ignoring 2nd post st – see cable diagram), sc in next 5 sts, fpdc around next post st from row 21, sc in next 9 sts, work fptr around next post st from row 21 only up to the last step, where there are 2 loops remaining on the hook, then do the same around the next post st from row 21, so there should now be 3 loops left on the hook, yo and draw through all three loops, sc in last 5 sts.

Row 24: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 4 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sts, sk next st, sc in next 5 sts, sk next st, sc in next 6 sts, sk next st, sc in last 3 sts. (28 sts)

Row 25: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 6 sts, work fptr around first post st from row 23 only up to the last step, where there are 2 loops remaining on the hook, then do the same around the next post st from row 23, so there should now be 3 loops left on the hook, yo and draw through all three loops, sc in next 8 sts, fpdc around next post st from row 23, sc in next 14 sts.

Row 26: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 14 sts, sk next st, sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts. (28 sts)

Row 27: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 14 sts, fpdc around last post st from row 25, sc in next 14 sts.

Row 28: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 14 sts, sk next st, sc in next 14 sts. (28 sc)

Row 29: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 11 sts, fpdc around post of stitch 2 rows below the stitch you just made, sc in next 4 sts, fpdc around post st from row 27, sc in next 3 sts, fptr around the stitch that is 2 rows below and 2 stitches to the left (ahead) of the stitch you just worked, sc in next 5 sts, fptr around the same st that you used for the last fptr, sc in next 5 sts.

Row 30: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 5 sts, sk next st, sc in next 5 sts, sk next st, sc in next 3 sts, sk next st, sc in next 4 sts, sk next st, sc in next 11 sts. (28 sc)

Row 31: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 5 sts, fptr around the stitch that is 2 rows below and 2 stitches to the left (ahead) of the stitch you just worked, sc in next 3 sts, fpdc around the same st that you used for the last fptr, sc in next 2 sts, fpdc around first post st from row 29, sc in next 7 sts, fptr around next post st from Row 29, sc in next 6 sts, fpdc around last post st from row 29, sc in last 5 sts.

Row 32: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 5 sts, sk next st, sc in next 6 sts, sk next st, sc in next 7 sts, sk next st, sc in next 2 sts, sk next st, sc in next 3 sts, sk next st, sc in last 5 sts. (28 sc)

Row 33: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 7 sts, work fptr around first post st from row 31 only up to the last step, where there are 2 loops remaining on the hook, then do the same around the third post st from row 31, so there should now be 3 loops left on the hook, yo and draw through all three loops, sc in next 13 sts, work fptr around next post st from row 31 only up to the last step, where there are 2 loops remaining on the hook, then do the same around the last post st from row 31, so there should now be 3 loops left on the hook, yo and draw through all three loops, sc in next 8 sts.

Row 34: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 7 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 12 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts. Do not fasten off. (28 sts)

Edging:

• Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 26 sc, (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in last sc,
• Working along side of rows, work 26 sc evenly spaced across to next corner,
• Working along bottom of row 1, (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in first st, sc in next 26 sts, (2sc, ch 2, 2sc) in last st
• Working along side of rows, work 26 sc evenly spaced across to next corner. In corner st, work 2 sc, ch 2, join with sl st to first st of edging. Fasten off and weave in ends.

I hope you enjoy the pattern! Thank you to my friend Annie for getting me on the right track. Thanks to Red Heart too, for supplying the lovely yarn! A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store for a $1 fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

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