Got a refrigerator or magnet board? Put a bird on it! The Bluebird Fridge Magnet is a quick and easy way to bring a touch of spring indoors. They make great gifts too, so make a few!

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2021 Fridgies CAL

This bunny fridge magnet is the March pattern in the 2021 Fridiges CAL! Crochet along through 12 magnet patterns. At the end of the year, you’ll have an adorable set of fridgies for yourself or for a gift! You may want to make 2 sets, so you don’t have to decide.

Enter the Giveaway

There will be several giveaways throughout the Fridgies CAL. This quarter, you could win this gift set of fiber wash products from Unicorn Clean. It even includes an adorable plush!

Learn all about the Fridgies Crochet Along here, including how to enter the giveaways!

Lion Brand DIY Yarn

Lion Brand provided all the yarn for this crochet along. Their DIY yarn comes in small balls, which is just perfect for the small amounts needed for each magnet. For the bluebird fridge magnet, you will need 2 shades of blue, with small amounts of white, organge and black for the facial features.

Xyron Glue Gun

The easiest way to attach your magnet to your crochet is with hot glue. For my magnets, I’m using this mini hot glue gun that Xyron gave me to try out.

I used it on this bluebird fridge magnet and on the previous magnets as well. I’ve been very happy with it. It heats up quickly and produced a nice steady bead of glue. Watch it in action in the tutorial video below!

Bluebird Fridge Magnet

Add this to your Ravelry queue

Materials

• Yarn: Lion Brand DIY Yarn (100% acrylic, worsted weight, 65 yds / 30g per ball)
  • 30 yds royal blue (royal)
  • 10 yds sky blue (sky)
  • 3 yds each, orange and white
  • 1/2 yd black OR black embroidery thread
• Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
• Notions:
  • Yarn Needle
  • Strong, flat magnet that will fit inside the bluebird (sample shown is 1 inch diameter)
  • Xyron hot glue gun and glue stick
  • Stitch marker

Project Level

Easy: Worked in the round with some sewing and embroidery required. Some color changes.

Size

About 2.5 inches in diameter, not counting tuft on top.

Gauge

12 sc x 13 rounds = 4 inches

Use pattern as gauge swatch – After rnd 4, back circle should measure about 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical. Your fabric should be tight enough that the magnet won’t show through.

Abbreviations used

(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
sc = single crochet
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
RS = right side
WS = wrong side

Recommended Resources

• To Knot or Not
• Almost Invisible Single Crochet Increase
• 3 Ways to Weave in Ends
• Changing Colors
• Invisible Join for Crocheting in the Round
• Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog)
• How to Make a French Knot by Fiber Flux

Special Stitches

Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, then sc in both loops of same st. This counts as two stitches in the end of round stitch counts.

See this tutorial for a more detailed look.

Instructions

Join rounds where indicated with a slip stitch in the first stitch of the round. Slip stitches are not included in stitch counts unless otherwise specified. Mark first stitch of rounds if desired. Do not turn your work unless indicated.

Back

With royal, ch 2.

Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) around, join. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around, join with sl st in flo of first st. Fasten off. (24 sts)

Weave in tails.

Work should now measure about 2.25 to 2.5 inches in diameter.

Front

This is the same pattern of increases as the back, but done with 2 colors. For a clean color change, start using the new color in the last “pull through” step of the last stitch in the previous color. See this tutorial for a more detailed look.

Do not work over the unused color. Instead, allow it to “float”, creating loose strands on the back of the work. Pick it up and work with it where you need it, making sure it stays loose at the back and doesn’t pull too tightly.

With sky, ch 2.

Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each of first 4 sts, sc in back loop only of next st changing to royal. With royal, sc in both loops of same st, inc in next st changing to sky, join with sky. (9 sky sts, 3 royal sts)

For the rest of the front, you will always be working royal stitches into royal stitches, and sky stitches into sky stitches.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, inc in first st, (sc in next st, inc in next st) 4 times, changing to royal. With royal, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next st changing to sky, join with sky. (14 sky sts, 4 royal sts)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, inc in first st, (sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st) 4 times, sc in next st, changing to royal. With royal, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in last 2 sts, join. (19 sky sts, 5 royal sts)

Remove royal working loop from hook and place it onto a stitch marker to secure it. Fasten off sky only. Weave in all 3 tails.

Eyes (Make 2)

With white, ch 2

Rnd 1: (2 sc, sl st, 2 sc, sl st) in 2nd ch from hook, join. (4 sc)

Optional: For a neater join, try this sewn, invisible join technique!

Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch tail for sewing on one eye, and just a normal tail on the other.

Beak

With orange, ch 2

Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (2 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, inc in each st across. (4 sc)

Row 3: Turn, sl st in first st, sc2tog, sl st in last st. (1 st)

Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch tail for sewing.

Assembly

Face

Place front circle with right side up and royal section centered at top. Using picture as a guide, place beak onto center of front circle, with point (row 1) at the bottom. The top of the beak should just overlap the bottom of the first royal stitches. Sew into place using the tail from the beak. Weave in end.

Place eyes on either side of the beak so that they just slightly overlap the beak at its widest point. The eyes are oval shaped. Orient them with the narrow slip stitches on the sides, and the wider sc stitches at the top and bottom. Use the one long tail from the first eye to sew both eyes into place. Weave in end.

Cut a piece of black yarn about 18 inches long, and weave it in at the back of the work to secure it. With this yarn, make a French knot at the center of each eye. Make two small stitches along the top edge of top edge of each eye to create shadows.

Split the remaining black yarn into its component plies – the DIY yarn has 4 plies, so can be split into 2 strands of 2 plies each. Using one of these 2 strands (2 plies), sew tiny stitches at the base of the nose for nostrils, and sew a line along the bottom edge of the nose for a shadow. Weave in all remaining ends.

Join front and back

Put royal working loop from front onto your hook and remove the stitch marker. Place the front and back together so that wrong sides are together and magnet is hidden between them. With front facing and working through both layers, (ch 1, sl st) in each st around. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Tuft

Cut a 4 inch length of each of the 2 blue yarns. Holding them together, fold in half to form a loop. With front facing you, insert hook from front to back through top of head, just below the edging. Place the loop on your hook and pull loop through, leaving 4 ends at the back.

Insert your hook into the loop and pull the ends through the loop.

Pull ends to tighten, then trim ends to about 1/2 inch. With your yarn needle, fray the ends so that each strand separates into its individual plies.

Bluebird Fridge Magnet Video Tutorial

Watch This Video on YouTube

Rate this Bluebird Fridge Magnet Pattern!

I hope you enjoyed this Bluebird fridge magnet pattern. Big thanks to Karen Navoy for testing it!

A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!

Dress up your table for spring with the Starflower Lace crochet doily! Tiny, 3-dimensional flowers encircle classic pineapple lace, creating the perfect backdrop for your favorite bowl or vase. Or showcase this beauty all by itself!

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This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.

Handspun yarn

In a short-lived spate of spring cleaning, I decided to make something from some unidentified scraps of fiber. I had little bits of bright magenta and teal, and some natural off-white colored wool as well.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Pia Thadani (@stitchesnscraps)

By blending them together, I spun them into something of a gradient. My yarn was somewhat uneven, and not soft enough to wear against skin, but perfect for something decorative for spring!

Make it any size

This pattern will work with any size yarn, and a hook appropriate for the yarn you choose. Keep in mind though that the size and yardage will vary if you change the size of the yarn.

All the gauge and size measurements in the pattern are based on the tester’s project, using store bought, fingering weight yarn. Because my yarn was hand spun, it was not the most even in weight throughout. My doily ended up closer to 15 inches in diameter instead of 14.

3-D Flower Stitch

The tiny flowers circling the outside of the doily are made with the flower stitch. In this technique, the flower petals are worked around the posts of the stitches in the row below. Each flower starts and ends in almost the same position, so it’s possible to do the whole round without breaking the yarn. Check out this tutorial for a more in-depth look at this 3-dimensional stitch.

Starflower Lace Doily

Add this to your Ravelry queue

Materials

• Yarn: 225 yds fingering weight yarn
• Hook: Size E/ 3.5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
• Notions:
  • Yarn Needle
  • Stitch marker (optional)

Project Level

Complex: Lace pattern worked in the round with uneven stitch counts in some places. 3-dimensional flower stitch.

Size

About 14 inches in diameter after blocking.

Gauge

20 dc x 10 rows = 4 inches

Use pattern as gauge swatch – After rnd 6, work should measure about 4 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical.

Abbreviations used

(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
flower = flower stitch (see Special Stitches)
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
shell = shell stitch (see Special Stitches)
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
tr = treble crochet

Recommended Resources

• To Knot or Not
• How to Start a Crochet Circle – 3 ways
• Crocheting Between Stitches (Lunchtime Live Demo)
• How to Crochet the Flower Stitch

Special Stitches

Shell Stitch (shell): (2 dc, ch 1, 2dc) in indicated st or sp. When working into a shell, work into the ch-1 sp at the center.

Flower Stitch (flower): Worked around the posts of 2 adjacent double crochets.

Rotate work sideways to work around post of 2nd dc. (Sl st, [ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st] 3 times) around post of 2nd dc.

Rotate work the other way to work around post of 1st dc.

(Sl st, [ch 2, 2dc, ch 2, sl st] 3 times) around post of 1st dc.

Sometimes it can be hard to see the dc immediately after the flower – turn and look from the back if needed to make sure you’re not accidentally missing that stitch. See this tutorial for a more detailed look.

Instructions

Entire project is worked on the right side, in joined rounds. Do not turn your work. Join rounds where indicated with a slip stitch in the first stitch of the round. You may find it helpful to mark the first st of each round.

Center Flower

(scroll down for full chart)

Ch 2, or make a magic loop

Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook or in magic loop, join. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, (sc, ch 1) in each st around, join. (6 sc, 6 ch-1 sps).

Rnd 3: Sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 6, sc) in same sp, ch 1, sk next st, [(sc, ch 6, sc) in next sp, ch 1, sk next st] 5 times, join. (12 sc, 6 ch-6 sps, 6 ch-1 sps)

From this point forward, skip all stitches and work only into chain spaces unless otherwise specified. Ch 3 at the start of a rnd counts as a dc throughout.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, [(4 sc, ch 2, 4 sc) in next ch-6 sp, sl st in next ch-1 sp], do not join. (48 sc, 6 ch-2 sps)

Rnd 5: Ch 9 (first 4 chs count as a tr, last 5 chs count as a ch-5 sp), sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 5, [tr in next ch-1 sp from rnd 3, ch 5, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 5] 5 times, join to 4th ch of starting ch 9 (top of 1st tr). (6 tr, 6 sc, 12 ch-5 sps)

Rnd 6: Sl st in first ch-5 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same sp (counts as shell), [shell in next ch-5 sp] 11 times, join. (12 shells)

Work should now measure about 4 inches in diameter.

Pineapple Stitch Lace

(Scroll down for full chart)

Rnd 7: Sl st in next dc of first shell, sl st in center of first shell, ch 3, 6 dc in same sp, ch 1, shell in next shell, ch 1, [7 dc in next shell, ch 1, shell in next shell, ch 1] 5 times, join. (42 dc, 6 shells, 12 ch-1 sps)

Rnd 8: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch-1), [dc in next dc, ch 1] 6 times, sk next ch-1 sp, shell in next shell, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, *[dc in next dc, ch 1] 7 times, sk next ch-1 sp, shell in next shell, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, repeat from * 4 more times, join. (42 dc, 6 shells, 48 ch-1 sps)

Rnd 9: Sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp] 5 times, ch 2, sk next ch-1 sp, shell in next shell, ch 2, sk next ch-1 sp, *sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp] 5 times, ch 2, sk next ch-1 sp, shell in next shell, ch 2, sk next ch-1 sp, repeat from * 4 more times, join. (36 sc, 6 shells, 30 ch-3 sps, 12 ch-2 sps)

Rnd 10: Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next shell, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, *sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next shell, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, repeat from * 4 more times, join. (30 sc, 36 dc, 24 ch-3 sps, 12 ch-2 sps, 12 ch-1 sps)

Rnd 11: Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, shell in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, *sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, shell in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, repeat from * 4 more times, join. (24 sc, 12 shells, 18 ch-3 sps, 12 ch-2 sps, 6 ch-1 sps)

Rnd 12: Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] twice, ch 3, sk next ch-2 sp, shell in next shell, ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, shell in next shell, ch 3, sk next ch-2 sp, *sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] twice, ch 3, sk next ch-2 sp, shell in next shell, ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, shell in next shell, ch 3, sk next ch-2 sp, repeat from * 4 more times, join. (24 sc, 12 shells, 36 ch-3 sps)

Rnd 13: Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, shell in next shell, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] twice, ch 3, shell in next shell, ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, *[sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3] twice, sk next ch-3 sp, shell in next shell, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] twice, ch 3, shell in next shell, ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, repeat from * 4 more times, join. (24 sc, 12 shells, 36 ch-3 sps)

Rnd 14: Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, shell in next shell, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, dc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 1, dc in same sp] 4 times, ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, shell in next shell, ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, *sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, shell in next shell, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, dc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 1, dc in same sp] 4 times, ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, shell in next shell, ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, repeat from * 4 more times, join. (18 sc, 30 dc, 12 shells, 24 ch-3 sps, 36 ch-1 sps)

Rnd 15: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), sk next ch-3 sp, shell in next shell, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk next ch-1 sp, dc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp] 3 times, ch 3, sk next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, shell in next shell, ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, *dc in next sc, ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, shell in next shell, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk next ch-1 sp, dc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp] 3 times, ch 3, sk next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, shell in next shell, ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, repeat from * 4 more times, join. (12 sc, 30 dc, 12 shells, 36 ch-3 sps, 18 ch-1 sps)

Note: I have removed the images for Rnds 15-17 because I made a mistake in my sample and didn’t want it to be confusing. I will replace these with new images when I get a chance.

Rnd 16: Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, [ch 3, sc] in each ch sp and in each shell around, ch 3, join. (66 sc, 66 ch-3 sps)

Rnd 17: Sl st in first ch-3 sp, Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, 3 dc in each of next 9 ch-3 sps, 4 dc in next ch-3 sp, [3 dc in each of net 10 ch-3 sps, 4 dc in next ch-3 sp] 5 times, join.

Flower Stitch Border

Scroll down for full chart

Rnd 18 has 6 repeats of 4 flowers each, for a total of 24 flowers. Between the flowers are chain spaces over skipped stitches. Pay special attention to how many stitches it says to skip – you will not always be skipping over the same number of stitches. Sometimes there are a total of 6 skipped dc between flowers, and sometimes 8.

When the instructions say to sl st between the next 2 dc, insert your hook between the posts of the indicated stitches and work a sl st. There is no ch-sp here to work into, it’s just between the stitches. Skip both the stiches that you just worked between.

Rnd 18: Sl st in 2nd dc. Flower around 2nd and 3rd dcs, ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sl st between next 2 dc, ch 3, sk next 2 dc, flower around next 2 dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sl st between next 2 dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, [flower around next 2 dc, ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sl st between next 2 dc, ch 3, sk next 2 dc] twice, *flower around next 2 dc, ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sl st between next 2 dc, ch 3, sk next 2 dc, flower around next 2 dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sl st between next 2 dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, [flower around next 2 dc, ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sl st between next 2 dc, ch 3, sk next 2dc] twice, repeat from * 4 times more, sl st in 2nd dc of rnd 17. (24 flowers, 48 ch-3 sps)

Rnd 19: Working behind the flowers, sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, 3 dc in same sp, 4 dc in each of next 6 ch-3 sps, dc in next sl st, 4 dc in next ch-3 sp, [4 dc in each of next 7 ch-3 sps, dc in next sl st, 4 dc in next ch-3 sp] 5 times, join. (198 dc)

Rnd 20: Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 3, sk next st, (sc in next st, ch 3, sk next st) around, join. (99 sc, 99 ch-3 sps)

Rnd 21: Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch-3) in same sp and in each ch-3 sp around, join. Fasten off. (99 sc, 99 ch-3 sps).

Finishing

Wash and Block – this is important to open up the lace, for best results, do not skip this step.

Weave in all ends.

Full Pattern Chart

Rate this Crochet Doily Pattern!

I hope you enjoyed this crochet doily pattern. Big thanks to ET’s Crochet Creations for testing it!

A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!

Add a little magic to your refrigerator with a Unicorn Fridge Magnet! With tiny flowers, pink cheeks, and of course a spiraling horn, they’re sure to brighten up your day. They make great gifts too, so make a few!

This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.

This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.

2021 Fridgies CAL

This unicorn fridge magnet is the March pattern in the 2021 Fridiges CAL! Crochet along through 12 magnet patterns. At the end of the year, you’ll have an adorable set of fridgies for yourself or for a gift! You may want to make 2 sets, so you don’t have to decide.

Enter the Giveaway

There will be several giveaways throughout the Fridgies CAL. This quarter, you could win this gift set of fiber wash products from Unicorn Clean. It even includes an adorable plush!

Learn all about the Fridgies Crochet Along here, including how to enter the giveaways!

Lion Brand DIY Yarn

Lion Brand provided all the yarn for this crochet along. Their DIY yarn comes in small balls, which is just perfect for the small amounts needed for each magnet. For the unicorn fridge magnet, you will need mostly white, with small amounts of pink, yellow, and sky blue.

Xyron Glue Gun

The easiest way to attach your magnet to your crochet is with hot glue. For my magnets, I’m using this mini hot glue gun that Xyron gave me to try out.

I used it on this unicorn fridge magnet and on the previous 3 magnets as well. I’ve been very happy with it. It heats up quickly and produced a nice steady bead of glue. Watch it in action in the tutorial video below!

Unicorn Fridge Magnet

Add this to your Ravelry queue

Materials

• Yarn: Lion Brand DIY Yarn (100% acrylic, worsted weight, 65 yds / 30g per ball)
  • 40 yds white
  • 10 yds hot pink (pink)
  • 5 yds yellow
  • 2 yds sky (blue)
  • 1/2 yd black OR black embroidery thread
• Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
• Notions:
  • Yarn Needle
  • Strong, flat magnet that will fit inside the unicorn (sample shown is 1 inch diameter)
  • Xyron hot glue gun and glue stick
  • Stitch marker

Project Level

Intermediate: Worked in the round with some sewing and embroidery required. Working in front and back loops and with multiple layers.

Size

About 2.5 inches in diameter, not counting ears and horn.

Gauge

12 sc x 13 rounds = 4 inches

Use pattern as gauge swatch – After rnd 4, back circle should measure about 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical. Your fabric should be tight enough that the magnet won’t show through.

Abbreviations used

(Pattern is written in US terms)
blo = back loop only
ch = chain
dec = decrease (see Special Stitches)
flo = front loop only
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
RS = right side
WS = wrong side

Recommended Resources

• To Knot or Not
• Back Loop Only and Front Loop Only
• Almost Invisible Single Crochet Increase
• 3 Ways to Weave in Ends

Special Stitches

Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, then sc in both loops of same st. This counts as two stitches in the end of round stitch counts.

See this tutorial for a more detailed look.

Decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.

Instructions

The unicorn has 2 main sections: The back with ears and magnet, and the front with the cheeks and embroidered face. You can make these 2 sections in any order you prefer. The horn and flowers are added after the front and back are joined together.

Join rounds where indicated with a slip stitch in the first stitch of the round. Slip stitches are not included in stitch counts unless otherwise specified. Mark first stitch of rounds if desired. Do not turn your work unless indicated.

Back

Back circle

With white, ch 2.

Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) around, join. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around, join with sl st in flo of first st. Do not fasten off. (24 sts)

Work should now measure about 2.25 to 2.5 inches in diameter.

Ears

First outer ear:

Continuing from the end of rnd 4.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in flo of first st, sc in flo of next 2 sts, leave remaining sts unworked. (3 sc)

Place a marker in the base of the last stitch you worked. This will be used for joining later.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, dec. (1 st)

Fasten off.

2nd outer ear

Turn to RS. Skip next 3 unworked sts on back circle, join white with a sl st in flo of next st.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in flo of same st (where the sl st was made), sc in flo of next 2 sts. (3 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, dec. (1 st)

Fasten off.

Inner ear:

Stay on wrong side. Working into unused loops in front of either outer ear, join pink with sl st in flo of first st.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in flo of same st (where the sl st was made), sc in flo of next 2 sts. (3 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, dec. (1 st)

Fasten off.

Repeat inner ear instructions for the other inner ear.

Weave in all ends.

Front

Front circle

With white, ch 2.

Rnds 1-3: Repeat rnds 1-3 of back circle. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around, join. Fasten off. (24 sts)

Cheeks (make 2)

With pink, ch 2

Rnd 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, do not join. Fasten off leaving an 8 inch tail for sewing.

Weave in the shorter, starting tail.

Face

Using the pictures as a guide:

• Sew cheeks into place, being careful not to interfere with the tops of the stitches in the last round. You’ll need to work into those for the assembly.

• Separate the black yarn into individual strands (plys). Using only one of the plies, embroider the eyes and eyelashes.

If you prefer, you can use thread or embroidery floss for the eyes instead.

Weave in all ends.

Assembly

Join front and back

Starting with back piece only and with WS (pink) facing, join white with sl st in marked st at base of ear.

Working through both layers of ear, ch 1, sl st in side of ear, ch 1, sl st in top of ear, ch 1, sl st in other side of ear, ch 1, sl st in base of ear. (4 sl sts)

Place the front circle on top of the back circle so that the right sides are facing out and wrong sides are together. Make sure the face is upright and centered between the ears.

Working through both the front and back layers, (ch 1, sl st) in each st around to base of other ear. (15 sl sts).

Working on back piece only, and through both layers of ear, ch 1, sl st at base of ear, ch 1, sl st in side of ear, ch 1, sl st in top of ear, ch 1, sl st in other side of ear, ch 1, sl st in base of ear. (5 sl sts)

There should be 9 remaining, unworked stitches on the front circle. 3 will be in front of each ear, and 3 in the center for the horn.

Fasten off

Weave in all ends.

Horn

Horn is worked in continuous rounds – do not join rounds, but rather continue working around in the same direction.

With RS facing, sk the first 3 stitches (in front of the first ear) on front circle. Join yellow with sl st in next st on front circle.

Rnd 1: Sc in same st and next 2 sts, turn to continue working into the 3 unworked sts between the ears on the back circle, sc in each of the 3 sts. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: Sc in blo of each st around. (6 sc)

Rnd 3: (Sk next st, sc in blo of next st) twice. (4 sc)

Fasten off

Weave tail through the back loops only of each of the 4 sts, and pull tight to form a point.

Weave in tails and stuff horns with the ends. If you need more stuffing, use a few tiny pieces of yellow yarn, cut to a length of 1 inch or less.

Flowers

Make 2 in blue and 1 in pink.

Ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, (ch 3, sl st in same ch) 4 times.

Fasten off, leaving an 8 inch tail for sewing.

Arrange the two blue flowers at the base of the horn and sew them in place with their tails, sewing the front and back layers closed in front of the ears as you do.

Place the pink flower on top of the 2 blue flowers and sew that in place with its tail as well.

Weave in all ends.

Unicorn Fridge Magnet Video Tutorial

Watch This Video on YouTube

Rate this Unicorn Fridge Magnet Pattern!

I hope you enjoyed this Unicorn fridge magnet pattern. Big thanks to Karen Navoy for testing it!

A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!

Hippity Hoppity, look who hopped by! This adorable bunny fridge magnet is looking for a home on your fridge or magnet board. They’re so fun to make they just might multiply like…well…bunnies. But that’s ok, because they make a great gift too!

This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.

This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.

2021 Fridgies CAL

This bunny fridge magnet is the March pattern in the 2021 Fridiges CAL! Crochet along through 12 magnet patterns. At the end of the year, you’ll have an adorable set of fridgies for yourself or for a gift! You may want to make 2 sets, so you don’t have to decide.

Enter the Giveaway

There will be several giveaways throughout the Fridgies CAL. This quarter, you could win a zippered pouch from Global Backyard Industries!

Learn all about the Fridgies Crochet Along here, including how to enter the giveaways for a chance to win some fabulous prizes too! March is the last month for this prize, so be sure to get those entries in!

Lion Brand DIY Yarn

Lion Brand provided all the yarn for this crochet along. Their DIY yarn comes in small balls, which is just perfect for the small amounts needed for each magnet. For the bunny fridge magnet, you will need mostly white, with small amounts of pink and black. Brown or off white would be great color choices for the bunny as well!

Xyron Glue Gun

The easiest way to attach your magnet to your crochet is with hot glue. For my magnets, I’m using this mini hot glue gun that Xyron gave me to try out.

I used it on this fox fridge magnet and on the previous fox magnet and bear magnet. I’ve been very happy with it. It heats up quickly and produced a nice steady bead of glue. Watch it in action in the tutorial video below!

Bunny Fridge Magnet

Add this to your Ravelry queue

Materials

• Yarn: Lion Brand DIY Yarn
  • 45 yds white
  • 10 yds pink
  • 2 yds black
• Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
• Notions:
  • Yarn Needle
  • Strong, flat magnet that will fit inside the bunny (sample shown is 1 inch diameter)
  • Xyron hot glue gun and glue stick
  • Stitch marker (optional)
  • Black embroidery thread (optional for eyebrows)

Project Level

Intermediate: Worked in the round with some sewing and embroidery required.

Size

About 2.5 inches in diameter, not counting ears.

Gauge

12 sc x 13 rounds = 4 inches

Use pattern as gauge swatch – After rnd 4, back circle should measure about 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical. Your fabric should be tight enough that the magnet won’t show through.

Abbreviations used

(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
dec = decrease (see Special Stitches)
flo = front loop only
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
RS = right side
WS = wrong side

Recommended Resources

• To Knot or Not
• Back Loop Only and Front Loop Only
• Almost Invisible Single Crochet Increase
• 3 Ways to Weave in Ends
• Backstitch Seaming and Sewing on Moogly

Special Stitches

Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, then sc in both loops of same st. This counts as two stitches in the end of round stitch counts.

See this tutorial for a more detailed look.

Decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.

Instructions

The pattern is made in 2 separate sections: The back with ears and magnet, and the front with the cheeks and embroidered face. You can make these 2 sections in any order you prefer.

Join rounds where indicated with a slip stitch in the first stitch of the round. Slip stitches are not included in stitch counts unless otherwise specified. Mark first stitch of rounds if desired. Do not turn your work unless indicated.

Back

Back circle

With white, ch 2.

Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) around, join. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around, join with sl st in flo of first st. Do not fasten off. (24 sts)

Work should now measure about 2.25 to 2.5 inches in diameter.

Ears

First outer ear:

Continuing from the end of rnd 4.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in flo of same st (where the sl st was made), sc in flo of next 2 sts. (3 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, inc in next st, sc in last st. (4 sc)

Rows 3-4: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (4 sc)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, dec, sc in last st. (3 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc in each of next 2 sts. (2 sts)

Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc in last st. (1 st)

Fasten off.

2nd outer ear

Skip next st on back circle, join white with a sl st in flo of next st.

Rows 1-7: Repeat rows 1-7 of first outer ear.

Fasten off.

Inner ear:

Turn to wrong side. Working into unused loops in front of either outer ear, join pink with sl st in flo of first st.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in flo of same st (where the sl st was made), sc in flo of next 2 sts. (3 sc)

Rows 2-7: Repeat rows 2-7 of outer ear.

Fasten off.

Repeat inner ear instructions for the other inner ear.

Weave in all ends.

Front

Cheeks (make 2)

With white, ch 2

Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join. Fasten off leaving an 8 inch tail for sewing.

Weave in the shorter, starting tail.

Front circle

With white, ch 2.

Rnds 1-3: Repeat rnds 1-3 of back circle. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around, join. Do NOT fasten off. (24 sts)

Secure working loop with a stitch marker and remove hook.

Face

IMPORTANT – When the front and back are joined, the working loop will be at the top center, between the ears. Keep this in mind when working on the face.

Using the pictures as a guide:

• Sew cheeks into place, being careful not to interfere with the tops of the stitches in the last round. You’ll need to work into those for the assembly.
• Embroider nose with pink yarn
• Embroider mouth, and eyes with black yarn.
• Optional: Separate the black yarn into individual strands (plys). Using only half the plies (2, for the Lion Brand DIY yarn), embroider the eyebrows.

If you are using a different yarn you may have more or fewer plys. If your yarn does not separate easily into plys, you can use thread or embroidery floss for the eyebrows.

Weave in all ends.

Assembly

Place working loop from front circle back onto hook and remove the stitch marker.

Hold front and back with wrong sides together. The active stitch on the front should be at the top center, between the ears.

Working through both front and back circle layers: (Ch 1, sl st) in the first st on the front circle and the skipped stitch between the ears on the back circle. (1 sl st)

Working through both ear layers, around the outside of the ear: (Ch 1, sl st) 7 times evenly spaced to the top point, (ch 1, sl st) at the top point, (ch 1, sl st) 7 times down the other side to the base of the ear. (15 sl sts)

Skip the next 3 sts on the front circle, the ones in front of the ear. Working through both front and back circle layers, (Ch 1, sl st) in each st around to the base of the other ear (17 sl sts)

There should be 3 remaining, unworked stitches on the front circle. This leaves 3 unworked front sts in front of each ear.

Working through both ear layers, around the outside of the other ear: (Ch 1, sl st) 7 times evenly spaced to the top point, (ch 1, sl st) at the top point, (ch 1, sl st) 7 times down the other side to the base of the ear. Join with sl st to first ch-1 of edging rnd. (15 sl sts not counting join.)

Fasten off leaving a 12-18 inch tail for sewing.

With the tail and working through front and back circle layers, sew across the 3 skipped stitches in front of each ear.

Weave in remaining ends

Bunny Fridge Magnet Video Tutorial

Watch This Video on YouTube

Rate this Bunny Fridge Magnet Pattern!

I hope you enjoyed this fox fridge magnet pattern. Big thanks to Karen Navoy for testing it!

A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!

What has this sly fox been up to? Crochet your own with this quick fox fridge magnet pattern, and put them to work holding photos and notes on your fridge. There’s a complete video tutorial too!

This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.

This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.

2021 Fridgies CAL

This fox fridge magnet is the February pattern in the 2021 Fridiges CAL! Crochet along through 12 magnet patterns. At the end of the year, you’ll have an adorable set of fridgies for yourself or for a gift! You may want to make 2 sets, so you don’t have to decide.

Enter the Giveaway

There will be several giveaways throughout the Fridgies CAL. This quarter, you could win a zippered pouch from Global Backyard Industries!

Learn all about the Fridgies Crochet Along here, including how to enter the giveaways for a chance to win some fabulous prizes too!

Lion Brand DIY Yarn

Lion Brand provided all the yarn for this crochet along. Their DIY yarn comes in small balls, which is just perfect for the small amounts needed for each magnet. For the fox fridge magnet, you will need: White, Orange, and a little bit of Black.

Xyron Glue Gun

The easiest way to attach your magnet to your crochet is with hot glue. For my magnets, I’m using this mini hot glue gun that Xyron gave me to try out.

I used it on this fox fridge magnet and on the previous bear magnet. I’ve been very happy with it. It heats up quickly and produced a nice steady bead of glue. Watch it in action in the tutorial video below!

Fox Fridge Magnet

Add this to your Ravelry queue

Materials

• Yarn: Lion Brand DIY Yarn
  • 20 yds each Orange and White
  • 2 yds Black
• Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
• Notions:
  • Yarn Needle
  • Strong, flat magnet that will fit inside the fox (sample shown is 1 inch diameter)
  • Xyron hot glue gun and glue stick
  • Stitch marker (optional)

Project Level

Intermediate: Worked in the round with some sewing and embroidery required.

Size

About 2.5 inches in diameter, not counting ears.

Gauge

12 sc x 13 rounds = 4 inches

Use pattern as gauge swatch – After rnd 4, back circle should measure about 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical. Your fabric should be tight enough that the magnet won’t show through.

Abbreviations used

(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
dec = decrease (see Special Stitches)
flo = front loop only
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
RS = right side
WS = wrong side

Recommended Resources

• To Knot or Not
• Back Loop Only and Front Loop Only
• Almost Invisible Single Crochet Increase
• 3 Ways to Weave in Ends
• Whipstitch Seaming
• Backstitch Seaming and Sewing on Moogly

Special Stitches

Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, then sc in both loops of same st. This counts as two stitches in the end of round stitch counts.

See this tutorial for a more detailed look.

Decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.

Instructions

The pattern is made in 2 separate sections: The back with ears and magnet, and the front with the embroidered face. You can make these 2 sections in any order you prefer.

Join rounds where indicated with a slip stitch in the first stitch of the round. Slip stitches are not included in stitch counts. Mark first stitch of rounds if desired. Do not turn your work unless indicated.

Back

Back circle

With orange, ch 2.

Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) around, join. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around, join. (24 sts)

Work should now measure about 2.25 to 2.5 inches in diameter.

Rnd 5 (partial rnd): Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 3 sts, (inc in next st, sc in next 3 sts) 3 times, leaving remaining 8 sts unworked. Do not fasten off. (20 sts)

Ears

First outer ear:

Continuing from the end of rnd 5, sl st in flo of next st.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in flo of same st (where the sl st was made), sc in flo of next 2 sts. (3 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, dec. (1 st)

Fasten off.

2nd outer ear

Skip next 2 sts on back circle, join orange with a sl st in flo of next st.

Rows 1-3: Repeat rows 1-3 of first outer ear.

Fasten off.

Inner ear:

Turn to wrong side. Working into unused loops in front of either outer ear, join white with sl st in flo of first st.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in flo of same st (where the sl st was made), sc in flo of next 2 sts. (3 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, dec. (1 st)

Fasten off.

Repeat inner ear instructions for the other inner ear.

Weave in all ends.

Joining Ears

Attach a 24-36 inch strand of orange yarn at the end of rnd 5, just before the base of the foxes left ear.

Using a whipstitch, sew inner and outer ear together around the outside edges. Keep the stitches very close together so they fully cover the edge and create a solid edging.

Weave yarn through the 2 stitches between the ears, and bring it out at the base of the other ear.

Whipstitch the 2nd ear together in the same way as the first.

It’s ok to repeat both whipstitch seams if desired, to close any gaps or until you get a look you like.

Weave in all ends.

Face

Using the pictures as a guide, embroider nose, mouth, and eyes with Black yarn. Place the nose a little lower than center – it should be in the white section, directly below the first round.

Weave in all ends except for the one long tail of each color for sewing.

Assembly

Hold front and back with wrong sides together.

Using the white yarn, sew the layers together around the outside edge with a whipstitch, only in the area that’s white on the front. Leave the orange part open.

Fold the face back at the opening and weave in the white tail on the inside.

With the remaining orange tail, sew the layers together as follows – sew across the first ear with a backstitch, whipstitch over the 2 stitches between the ears, then sew across the 2nd ear with a backstitch.

Weave in the orange tail on the back.

Fox Fridge Magnet Video Tutorial

Watch This Video on YouTube

Rate this Fox Fridge Magnet Pattern!

I hope you enjoyed this fox fridge magnet pattern. Big thanks to Karen Navoy for testing it!

A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!