Wrap yourself in elegance with the Silver Linings wrap. This lacy, crochet shawl offers the warmth of wool and the lightness of lace, in a unique and easy-to-wear shape. Crocheted seams and a repeating pattern of basic stitches means it’s easy to make too.
Silver Lining Collection
Global Backyard Industries generously supplied me with the yarn for this design. In fact, the shawl is named after the yarn! It’s the hand dyed, Silver Lining Collection. This trio of tonal, silver yarns includes the pale grey Cloud Cover, the soft platinum Incoming Rain, and the deep charcoal Thunderclap.
These rich grey colors are hand dyed on a fingering weight base that blends 85% extrafine merino wool with15% nylon. Each of the three colors is also available individually. This yarn comes in hanks, which need to be wound into a ball or cake before using. Global Backyard will cake your yarn for you, for a small fee. If you’re doing it yourself, check out my tutorial on winding yarn!
A note about gauge
Like most merino yarns, this yarn tends to grow with the initial blocking. My unblocked gauge was 17 dc x 10 rows in 4 inches, but it blocked out to 15 dc x 9 rows. To get an accurate gauge, it’s important to measure your swatch after blocking.
The shawl is quite large, so if your gauge is just a bit too small, it’ll still come out ok. But I did use up almost all of the yarn, so if your gauge is too big you may run out. This is what I had left over after my shawl.
Silver Linings Shawl
- Yarn: Global Backyard Extrafine Merino Wool Blend – 85% wool / 15% nylon, 437 yds / 100 g per skein. Silver linings collection includes 1 skein each of:
- Thunderclap – dark grey (C)
- Hook: Size G / 4 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
Easy: Basic stitches in a repeating pattern, with some increases.
72″ wide at top x 30″ height x 36″ wide at bottom.
15 dc x 9 rows = 4 inches after blocking.
Exact gauge is not critical for fit, but will affect yarn usage. Err on the slightly smaller side if needed. If your gauge is a little too big, you will likely run out of yarn.
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
ch-sp = chain space
csdc = chainless starting double crochet (optional – see Recommended Resources)
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
RS = right side
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
yo = yarn over
The pattern is made in 3 separate, triangle sections which are then crocheted together.
Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a dc throughout the pattern. For a cleaner look, replace the ch 3 with a chainless starting double crochet (csdc) instead.
Make 3 (one in each color)
Row 1 (RS): Ch 4 (counts as 1 foundation ch and 1 dc), 2 dc in 4th ch from hook. (3 dc)
Row 2: Ch 3, turn, dc in first st, dc in next st, 2 dc in last st. (5 dc)
Rows 3-32: Ch 3, turn, dc in first st, dc in each st across to last st, 2 dc in last st. (65 dc)
It’s ok if work starts to look puckered in this section. The mesh will open up with blocking.
Row 33: Ch 3, turn, dc in first st, ch 2, sk next st, sc in next st, (ch 4, sk next st, sc in next st) across to last 2 sts, ch 2, sk next st, 2 dc in last st. (4 dc, 31 sc, 32 ch-sps)
For the remainder of this section, sk all sc stitches. Work only into dc stitches and ch-sps.
Rows 34-62: Ch 3, turn, dc in first dc, dc in each dc across to first ch-2 sp, dc in first ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp, (ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp) across to last ch-2 sp, ch 2, dc in last ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across to last st, 2 dc in last st. (120 dc, 2 sc, 3 ch-sps)
Row 63: Ch 3, turn, dc in first dc, dc in each dc across to first ch-2 sp, dc in first ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, dc in each dc across to last st, 2 dc in last st. (124 dc, 2 ch-sps)
Row 64: Ch 3, turn, dc in first dc, dc in each dc across to first ch-2 sp, dc in first ch-2 sp, ch 1, dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in each st across to last st, 2 dc in last st. (128 dc, 1 ch sp)
Row 65: Ch 3, turn, dc in first dc, dc in each dc and ch-sp across to last st, 2 dc in last st. (131 dc)
Do not turn. Working in sides of rows, ch 1, 2 sc in each row across to the point at the base of row 1. (130 sc)
(Sc, ch 1, sc) in point at base of row 1. Place a marker in this ch-1 sp to mark the point of the triangle. (2 sc, 1 ch-1- sp)
Working in sides of rows, 2 sc in each row across to top of row 65. (130 sc)
Do not fasten off. Secure working loop with a stitch marker and set triangle aside until all 3 triangles are made.
The seaming diagram below shows how the triangles should be arranged when seaming is completed. Triangles A and B should have the points facing down and the wide edge at the top. The two wide edges form the top of the shawl. Triangle C should be between them, with its point facing up. The wide edge of triangle C makes the bottom edge of the shawl.
We are going to seam up the edge between A and C, then back down the other edge between B and C. The (ch-1, sl st) seam is both stretchy and decorative, in case the wrong side of the fabric ever shows when worn.
Hold the A and C triangles along the A/C seam line, with right sides together. The working loop from triangle C should meet the point of triangle A.
The WS loop referenced below means the loop on the WS of the fabric. That’s the front loop on whichever piece you have on top, and the back loop on the bottom piece.
Pick up the working loop of color C. With C, and working through the WS loops only of both pieces, (ch-1, sl st) in each st across. You should end at the top of triangle A and the point of triangle C.
Working only into triangle C, sl st into the ch-1 sp at the point. Remove the marker.
Hold B & C with right sides together, along the B/C seam. The working loop from triangle C should meet the top corner of triangle B, on the other side from where the working loop of B is.
Continuing with C, and working through the WS loops only of both pieces, (ch-1, sl st) in each st across. You should end at the point of triangle B. Fasten off and cut C.
Lay work flat with RS up. Notice that the working loop of color B is at one corner and the working loop of color A is in the middle. We’re going to work across the top of triangle B with color B, change colors when we get to triangle A, and then continue to the end with A.
Pick up the working loop of color B and remove marker. With B and working across the top, ch 3 (or csdc in side of edging row), dc in next 130 dc, dc in seam between triangles B and C, dc in ch-1 sp at point of C. (133 dc)
Yo, insert hook into seam between triangles A and C, and pull up a loop.
Remove marker from working loop of A, place the loop on your hook.
Pull the loop of A through the next 2 loops on your hook.
Continuing with A, yo and pull through two loops on hook. (1 dc)
Continuing with A, dc in each dc across, dc in side of edging row. (131 dc)
Fasten off all colors
Weave in all ends
Wash and block (this is important to open up the mesh. Do not skip this step).
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I hope you enjoyed this lacy crochet shawl pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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