Free Crochet Patterns
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Spider Fridge Magnet Crochet Pattern
It’s creepy, it’s crawly, but it’s oh so cute! Make this adorable spider fridge magnet for your fridge or magnet board. Stick one on a spider web for some creepy Halloween decor. They’re great for party favors or gifts too!

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This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
2021 Fridgies CAL
This spider fridge magnet is the September pattern in the 2021 Fridiges CAL! Crochet along through 12 magnet patterns. At the end of the year, you’ll have an adorable set of fridgies for yourself or for a gift! You may want to make 2 sets, so you don’t have to decide.

Enter the Giveaway
There have been several giveaways throughout the Fridgies CAL. We’re now starting our 4th and final giveaway. You could win this amazing Mosaic Wood Crochet Hook Set provided by WeCrochet!

Find all the giveaway details and learn more about the Fridgies Crochet Along here! You can also read my review of these lovely hooks here.
Lion Brand DIY Yarn
Lion Brand provided all the yarn for this crochet along. Their DIY yarn comes in small balls, which is just perfect for the small amounts needed for each magnet. The spider fridge magnet is all black, with a tiny amount of white for the eyes.

If you’re not able to get this yarn or the colors you need, Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice or Basic Stitch are also good options. You can also substitute embroidery thread for the white yarns.
Xyron Glue Gun
The easiest way to attach your magnet to your crochet is with hot glue. For my magnets, I’m using this mini hot glue gun that Xyron gave me to try out.

I used it on this spider fridge magnet and on the previous magnets as well. I’ve been very happy with it. It heats up quickly and produced a nice steady bead of glue. Watch it in action in the tutorial video below!
Materials
- Yarn: Lion Brand DIY Yarn (100% acrylic, worsted weight, 65 yds / 30g per ball)
- 50 yds black
- 1/2 yd white, OR white embroidery floss
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Strong, flat magnet that will fit inside the spider (sample shown is 1 inch diameter)
- Xyron hot glue gun and glue stick
- Stitch marker (optional)
Project Level
Intermediate: Worked in the round, black yarn, increases, 2 main sections sewn together, some embroidery.
Size
About 2.5 inches in diameter, not counting head and legs.
Gauge
12 sc x 13 rounds = 4 inches
Use pattern as gauge swatch – After rnd 4, back circle should measure about 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical. Your fabric should be tight enough that the magnet won’t show through.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, then sc in both loops of same st. This counts as two stitches in the end of round stitch counts.
See this tutorial for a more detailed look.

Instructions
Join rounds where indicated with a slip stitch in the first stitch of the round. Slip stitches are not included in stitch counts unless otherwise specified. Mark first stitch of rounds if desired. Do not turn your work unless indicated.
Back
Back Circle
With black, ch 2.
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) around, join. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around, join. (24 sts)
Do not fasten off
Work should now measure about 2.25 inches in diameter.

Head and Legs
Rnd 5: Sk first st,
First set of legs: ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each of the remaining 4 chs, [sl st in each of next 2 sts on back circle, ch 8, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each of the remaining 6 chs] twice, sl st in each of next 2 sts on back circle, ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each of the remaining 4 chs, sl st in next st on back circle
Head: Dc in each of next 3 sts, sl st in next st
2nd set of legs: Repeat instructions for first set of legs. Fasten off, leaving remaining 6 sts unworked.

Weave in all ends.
Magnet
Using hot glue gun, glue magnet to center of back circle, on the WS of work.

Set back piece aside.
Front
Front Circle
Repeat rnds 1-4 of back circle.
Head
Rnd 5: Sk first st, dc in each of the next 3 sts, sl st in next st, leaving remaining 19 sts unworked.
Fasten off, leaving an 18 inch tail for sewing.
Eyes
With white yarn or embroidery floss, and using the picture as a guide, make 2 small stitches for eyes.

Weave in all ends except for the long tail for sewing.
Join Front and Back
Place the front and back together so that wrong sides are together and the heads line up. The magnet should be hidden between them.

Use the long tail from the front to sew the front and back together, working just under the tops of the stitches along the outside edge of the front and back circles.

Weave in any remaining ends.
Spider Fridge Magnet Video Tutorial
Watch This Video on YouTube

Rate this Spider Fridge Magnet Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this bat fridge magnet pattern. Big thanks to Karen Navoy for testing it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!

Bat Fridge Magnet Crochet Pattern
This little bat fridge magnet is trying hard to be spooky, but they’re just too cute! Make your own sweet bat friend for your fridge or magnet board. They’re great for gifting too, so you may want to make a whole colony!

This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
2021 Fridgies CAL
This bat fridge magnet is the September pattern in the 2021 Fridiges CAL! Crochet along through 12 magnet patterns. At the end of the year, you’ll have an adorable set of fridgies for yourself or for a gift! You may want to make 2 sets, so you don’t have to decide.

Enter the Giveaway
There will be several giveaways throughout the Fridgies CAL. For our 3rd quarter giveaway, you could win 3 skeins of this sparkly, gorgeous, Date Nights yarn from Lion Brand!

Find all the giveaway details and learn more about the Fridgies Crochet Along here! Look for a new knitting pattern from me in this yarn soon. Once it’s ready, I’ll link it here.
Lion Brand DIY Yarn
Lion Brand provided all the yarn for this crochet along. Their DIY yarn comes in small balls, which is just perfect for the small amounts needed for each magnet. For the bat fridge magnet, I used brown and black, with small amounts of white and pink for the facial features.

If you’re not able to get this yarn or the colors you need, Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice or Basic Stitch are also good options. You can also substitute embroidery thread for the white and pink yarns.
Xyron Glue Gun
The easiest way to attach your magnet to your crochet is with hot glue. For my magnets, I’m using this mini hot glue gun that Xyron gave me to try out.

I used it on this bat fridge magnet and on the previous magnets as well. I’ve been very happy with it. It heats up quickly and produced a nice steady bead of glue. Watch it in action in the tutorial video below!
Materials
- Yarn: Lion Brand DIY Yarn (100% acrylic, worsted weight, 65 yds / 30g per ball)
- 40 yds brown
- 15 yds black
- 1/2 yd each white and pink, OR white and pink embroidery floss
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Strong, flat magnet that will fit inside the bat (sample shown is 1 inch diameter)
- Xyron hot glue gun and glue stick
- Stitch marker (optional)
Project Level
Intermediate: Worked in the round, increases and decreases, 2 main sections sewn together, some embroidery.
Size
About 2.5 inches in diameter, not counting ears and wings.
Gauge
12 sc x 13 rounds = 4 inches
Use pattern as gauge swatch – After rnd 4, back circle should measure about 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical. Your fabric should be tight enough that the magnet won’t show through.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, then sc in both loops of same st. This counts as two stitches in the end of round stitch counts.
See this tutorial for a more detailed look.

Instructions
Join rounds where indicated with a slip stitch in the first stitch of the round. Slip stitches are not included in stitch counts unless otherwise specified. Mark first stitch of rounds if desired. Do not turn your work unless indicated.
Back
Back Circle
With brown, ch 2.
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) around, join. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around, join. (24 sts)
Fasten off leaving an 18 inch tail for sewing.
Work should now measure about 2.25 inches in diameter.

First Ear
With WS facing, join black with sl st in any st on last rnd of back circle.
Row 1 (WS): 2 sc in same st, 2 sc in next st, leaving remaining sts unworked. (4 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog twice. (2 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog. (1 st)

Fasten off.
2nd Ear:
With WS facing, skip next 3 unworked sts on back circle. Join black with sl st in next unworked st on back circle.
Repeat rows 1-3 of first ear. Fasten off.

First Wing:
With WS facing, skip next unworked sts on back circle. Pull up a loop of black next unworked st on back circle.
Row 1: Ch 7, sk first 2 chs, sl st in next ch, sc in each of remaining 4 chs, sl st in next unworked st on back circle. (4 sc)
Row 2: Turn, sk sl st, dc in next sc, ch 2, sl st in top of dc just made, sl st in next sc, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in next sc, sl st in last sc.
Fasten off.

2nd Wing:
With RS facing, and starting from edge of first ear, skip next unworked sts on back circle. Pull up a loop of black next unworked st on back circle.
Repeat rows 1-2 of first wing. Fasten off.

Wing Shaping:
Weave the ending tail of each wing along the bottom edge of the wing. Pull gently to help the wing curve downward a bit. When you like the shape, weave in the remaining end.

Weave in all ends except for the 18-inch brown tail, which will be used for sewing.
Magnet
Using hot glue gun, glue magnet to center of back circle, on the WS of work.

Set back piece aside.
Front
Front Circle
Repeat rnds 1-4 of back circle.
Fasten off leaving a normal tail for weaving in. There is no need for an extra-long tail.
Face
Using the pictures as a guide:
Embroider 2 eyes in black.
Embroider a horizontal nose in pink.
Embroider 2 triangular fangs in white.
Weave in all ends.

Join Front and Back
Place the front and back together so that wrong sides are together with the face centered between the ears. The magnet should be hidden between them.

Use the long brown tail from the back to sew the front and back together, working just under the tops of the stitches along the outside edge of the front and back circles.

Weave in any remaining ends.
Bat Fridge Magnet Video Tutorial
Watch This Video on YouTube

Rate this Bat Fridge Magnet Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this bat fridge magnet pattern. Big thanks to Karen Navoy for testing it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!

Halloween Crochet Pattern – Eyeball Earrings
Add a creepy finishing touch to your look with Eyeball Earrings. This Halloween crochet pattern is frightfully fun and fast. Make some in every color, you never know when you might need an extra pair of eyes!

This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
More Halloween Crochet Patterns
These eyeball earrings are part of the Halloween Crochet Along at CAL Central. Check out all the other Halloween crochet pattern ideas in this main CAL post, and join in the fun on the CAL Central Crochet Facebook group!
Enter the CAL giveaway for a chance to win fabulous prizes from Amy’s Trinket Shop, Glass EyesOnline, and Hooked for Life!
Jewelry Supplies
To make these eyeball earrings, you’ll need a few jewelry supplies and findings.
Jump rings
Jump rings are simple wire rings that are split at one point. You can twist the rings slightly to open up the gap, and then close them by twisting them back into place. They come in a variety of sizes and colors so you can match your earring hooks if desired.
I used 6mm jump rings. Smaller ones will be less visible, while larger ones will be easier to work with. With jump rings, you can also turn these eyeballs into charms and add them to any charm bracelet or necklace instead of earrings!
Earring wires
Earring wires are the hooks that go in your ears. They have a small loop on the bottom to attach to the jump ring. They are available in many styles and colors. If you don’t have pierced ears, you can even find clip-on hooks!
Jewelry Pliers
The right tool makes any job easier. You can use ordinary household pliers to open jump rings, but smooth jewelry pliers do a better job. They grip the jump ring without crushing it, so you can open and close it more easily.
Materials
- Thread: Size 10, cotton crochet thread
- 10 yds white
- 5 yds each, green and black
- Hook: Size B / 2.25 mm hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Embroidery Needle
- 2 jump rings (5-10 mm)
- 2 earring wires
- Small amount of PolyFil fiberfill
Project Level
Intermediate: All single crochet, joined rounds and continuous rounds, increases and decreases, color changes, working in back loop only.
Size
3/4 inch diameter (eyeball only).
Gauge
32 sc x 34 rnds = 4 inches.
Exact gauge isn’t critical. Use pattern as gauge swatch – finished eyeball should measure about 3/4 inches in diameter.
Abbreviations used
blo = back loop only
ch = chain
dec = decrease
rnd = round
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stich(es)
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of next st, then sc in both loops of the same st. See full tutorial here.

Decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Instructions
Eyeball
Entire eyeball is worked on the right side. Do not turn.
Join rounds where indicated with a sl st in the first st of the round. Or, try this invisible join method instead of the slip stitch.
Rnd 1: With black, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join, fasten off black. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: Join green with a sl st in any st, 2 sc in each st around, join, fasten off green. (12 sc)

The remainder of the eyeball is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join rounds.
Rnd 3: Join white with sl st in blo of any st, 2 sc in blo of same st, sc in blo of next st, (2 sc in blo of next st, sc in blo of next st around). (18 sc)
Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 6: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sc)
Pull working loop up big so it won’t come out, and remove hook. Weave in all black and green ends on the wrong side.
With the white starting tail, sew a small highlight stitch into the right side of the black portion (rnd 1), then weave in the end on the wrong side.

Overstuff with PolyFil, then place working loop back on hook for final round.

Rnd 7: Carefully pushing the PolyFil in as you go, dec around, fasten off. (6 sc)

Use tail to sew eyeball closed, then weave in end.
Attach Earring Hooks
Attach jump ring to top of one eyeball so that it is parallel to the front of the eye.

Repeat for the 2nd eyeball, making sure that it’s lined up the same so that both highlights are in the same position.
Attach an earring hook to each jump ring, so that the hook points towards the back of the eyeballs. Close both jump rings.

I hope you enjoyed this Halloween crochet pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Cable Runner Cabled Crochet Table Runner Pattern
Dress up your table or shelf with this scrappy, cabled crochet table runner! Three separate cables twist along the length of this runner, in a repeating pattern that’s easy to memorize. Make it to any length you need, and change colors as much as you want, to create your own unique look.

This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Vinnis Colors Nikkim Yarn
Vinnis Colors had sent me some of their lovely Nikkim yarn for my Dorothy’s Square pattern. I used what was left for this crocheted cabled table runner.
It’s a soft, 100% cotton, DK weight yarn that comes in a wide array of hand-dyed colors. It has a lovely, light and airy feel and a subtle tonal quality to the colors.

The colors shown in the sample are 512 Denim, 579 Antique and 513 Washed Denim
Materials
- Yarn: 250 yds DK weight yarn.
- Hook: Size 7 (4.5mm) crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
Sample is shown in Vinnis Colors Nikkim 100% cotton yarn, in colors 512 Denim, 579 Antique, and 513 Washed Denim.
Project Level
Intermediate: Post stitch cables with crossed stitches.
Size
10 x 36 inches / 25 x 90 cm
Note: Pattern can be adjusted to any length. Length adjustments will affect yardage needed.
Gauge
15 sc x 16 rows = 4 inches. Exact gauge is not critical but will affect yarn usage.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- CB = Cable Border (see Special Stitch)
- ch = chain
- fpdc = front post double crochet
- fptr = front post treble crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet
- sk = skip
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side
- rep = repeat
- rnd = round
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet next 2 stitches together.
- sl st = slip stitch
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
Special Stitch
Cable Border: Fpdc around next fpdc, sc in next sc, sk next fptr, fptr around next fptr, working in front of fptr just made fptr around skipped fptr, sc in next sc, fpdc around next fpdc. (2 sc, 2 fpdc, 2 fptr).

Recommended Resources
Instructions
Change colors as desired throughout pattern. Sample shows color changes after rows 17, 41, 49, 97, 105, and 129.
Main Section
Scroll down for chart
Foundation Chain: Ch 39.
Row 1 (WS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (38 hdc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of first 3 sts, [fpdc around next st, sc in next st, sk next st, fptr around next st, working in front of fptr just made, fptr around skipped st, sc in next st, fpdc around next st], sc in each of next 5 sts, fpdc around each of next 2 sts, sc in each of next 6 sts, fpdc around each of next 2 sts, sc in each of next 5 sts, repeat between [ ], sc in each of last 3 sts. (26 sc, 8 fpdc, 4 fptr)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (38 sc)
From this point forward, all post stitches (fpdc and fptr) are worked around post stitches from previous RS row. Skip sc behind post stitch.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of first 3 sc, CB, sc in each of next 6 sc, fptr around each of next 2 fpdc, sc in each of next 4 sc, fptr around each of next 2 fpdc, sc in each of next 6 sc, CB, sc in each of last 3 sc. (26 sc, 4 fpdc, 8 fptr)
Row 5: Repeat row 3
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of first 3 sc, CB, sc in each of next 7 sc, fptr around each of next 2 fptr, sc in each of next 2 sc, fptr around each of next 2 fptr, sc in each of next 7 sc, CB, sc in each of last 3 sc. (26 sc, 4 fpdc, 8 fptr)
Row 7: Repeat row 3
Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of first 3 sc, CB, sc in each of next 8 sc, fptr around each of next 4 fptr, sc in each of next 8 sc, CB, sc in each of last 3 sc. (26 sc, 4 fpdc, 8 fptr)
Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of first 18 sts, working in front of previous row, dc in unworked sc below each of next 2 sts, sc in each of last 18 sts. (36 sc, 2 dc)


Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of first 3 sc, CB, sc in each of next 7 sc, fptr around each of next 2 fptr, sc in each of next 2 dc, fptr around each of next 2 fptr, sc in each of next 7 sc, CB, sc in each of last 3 sc. (26 sc, 4 fpdc, 8 fptr)
Rows 11-12: Repeat Rows 3-4
Row 13: Repeat Row 3
Row 14: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of first 3 sc, CB, sc in each of next 5 sc, fptr around each of next 2 fptr, sc in each of next 6 sc, fptr around each of next 2 fptr, sc in each of next 5 sc, CB, sc in each of last 3 sc. (26 sc, 4 fpdc, 8 fptr)
Row 15: Repeat Row 3
Row 16: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of first 3 sc, CB, sc in each of next 5 sc, fpdc around each of next 2 fptr, sc in each of next 6 sc, fpdc around each of next 2 fptr, sc in each of next 5 sc, CB, sc in each of last 3 sc. (26 sc, 8 fpdc, 4 fptr)
Row 17: Repeat Row 3
Row 18: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of first 3 sc, CB, sc in each of next 5 sc, fpdc around each of next 2 fpdc, sc in each of next 6 sc, fpdc around each of next 2 fpdc, sc in each of next 5 sc, CB, sc in each of last 3 sc. (26 sc, 8 fpdc, 4 fptr)
Rows 19-144: [Repeat Rows 3-18] 7 times, then repeat Rows 3-16 once more. Do not fasten off.
To adjust length, work more or fewer repeats. Any adjustments will change amount of yarn needed and st counts for Edging.
Edging:
Continuing from Row 144:
- Working in sides of rows, ch 1, sc in each row across. (144 sc)
- Working on bottom of foundation chain, ch 1, sc in each ch across. (38 sc)
- Working in sides of rows, ch 1, sc in each row across. (144 sc)
- Working across top of row 144, ch 1, sc in each st across, join with sl st to starting ch-1. (38 sc)
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Wash and block.
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I hope you enjoyed this cabled crochet table runner pattern! A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee.
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Foldable Market Bag Crochet Pattern
From farmer’s markets to beach days, a good mesh bag is a must-have for summer. This foldable market bag tucks away into a compact ball that’s easy to take along, wherever you’re headed!

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This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
CAL Central Summer Quickies Crochet Along
This foldable market bag is the final pattern in the Summer Quickies Crochet Along at CAL Central. Check out the main post for all the other patterns, and giveaway details too!
Alternate Cords
The pattern includes instructions for simple drawstring cords. But there are lots of other options you could try instead! For my bag I actually used a foundation slip stitch cord. This gives the same result, but without needing to know how many chains to start with.
You could also try using a spool knitter, like the Clover Wonder Knitter to make rounder, stretchier cords.

Pre-made elastic cords are another good option. Any type of cord will work, but stretchier cords will allow for more flexibility in the bag when it’s being used.
Materials
- Yarn: Worsted weight, cotton yarn
- 150 yds main color (MC)
- 25 yds accent color (AC)
- Hook: Size I / 5.5 mm hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Stitch Marker
Project Level
Easy: All basic stitches, no seaming. Switching between joined and continuous rounds.
Size
13 x 12 inches, not counting handles.
Gauge
13 sc x 15 rows = 4 inches
Abbreviations used
ch = chain
ch-sp = chain space
dc = double crochet
rnd = round
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stich(es)
Recommended Resources
- Why Continuous Rounds Shift
- Foundation Slip Stitch (alternate cord method)
- Clover Wonder Knitter Tutorial (alternate cord method)
- Edging – Working Evenly Across / Around
Instructions
Bag
The entire bag is worked on the right side.
Chain 42
Foundation Row: Sk first 2 chs, sc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across to last ch, sl st in last ch. (39 sc, 1 sl st, 1 ch-2 sp)
Rnd 1: Working into the bottom of the foundation row, ch 3, sk first sl st, sc in next st, (ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in next st) 9 times, ch 5, sk last 2 sts, sc in ch-2 sp. Continuing into the top of the foundation row, ch 5, sk first 2 sts, sc in next st, (ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in next st) 9 times, ch 5, sk last 2 sts, sc in starting ch-3 sp. (21 ch-5 sps, 1 ch-3 sps)

The remainder of this section is worked in continuous rounds. Work only into chain spaces and skip all stitches.
Rnd 2: (Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp) 21 times. (21 ch-5 sps)
Place a marker in the last sc made – this marks the side edge, for handle placement.

Rnds 3-20: (Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp) around in continuous rounds, ending with an sc directly above the side edge marker. Do not fasten off.

Ending in line with the side edge marker is more important than the exact number of rounds.
Handle
Handle is worked in joined rounds. Do not turn.
Rnd 1: Sc in same ch-5 sp where you ended the bag (you will now have 2 sc in this same sp), 4 sc in each ch-5 sp around, join with sl st to the first sc in the starting ch-5 sp (this will be the last sc from the bag section). (86 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each of first 16 sts, ch 15, sk next 11 sts, sc in each of next 32 sts, ch 15, sk next 11 sts, sc in each of last 16 sts, join with sl st to first st of rnd. (64 sts, 30 chs)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in each st and each ch around, join with sl st to first st of rnd, fasten off. (94 sc)

Drawstrings
Cords (Make 2): Ch 50, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, fasten off.
Lay the bag flat and select a ch-5 space near the middle, along the bottom edge. Insert one cord into this space. Working in a diagonal line across the corner, weave the cord through the ch-5 spaces until you get all the way around back to your starting point. Use the tails to sew the cord ends together.
Repeat with the other cord in the same spaces – you can weave it in exactly the same way, or alternate by going up where you went down last time, and down where you went up last time.

To Fold Bag:
Push the rest of the bag into the corner where the drawstrings are. Pull the drawstrings to close.

I hope you enjoyed this foldable market bag pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!

Owl Fridge Magnet Crochet Pattern
A wise old owl told me this owl fridge magnet pattern is a hoot! Make a feathered friend of your own, to perch on your fridge or magnet board. They’re great for gifting too, so you may want to make a whole parliament of owls.

This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
2021 Fridgies CAL
This owl fridge magnet is the August pattern in the 2021 Fridiges CAL! Crochet along through 12 magnet patterns. At the end of the year, you’ll have an adorable set of fridgies for yourself or for a gift! You may want to make 2 sets, so you don’t have to decide.

Enter the Giveaway
There will be several giveaways throughout the Fridgies CAL. For our 3rd quarter giveaway, you could win 3 skeins of this sparkly, gorgeous, Date Nights yarn from Lion Brand!

Find all the giveaway details and learn more about the Fridgies Crochet Along here! Look for a new knitting pattern from me in this yarn soon. Once it’s ready, I’ll link it here.
Lion Brand DIY Yarn
Lion Brand provided all the yarn for this crochet along. Their DIY yarn comes in small balls, which is just perfect for the small amounts needed for each magnet. For the owl fridge magnet, I used red, brown, white, and a small amount of black and orange for the facial features.

If you’re not able to get this yarn or the colors you need, Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice or Basic Stitch are also good options. You can also substitute embroidery thread for the black and orange yarns.
Xyron Glue Gun
The easiest way to attach your magnet to your crochet is with hot glue. For my magnets, I’m using this mini hot glue gun that Xyron gave me to try out.

I used it on this owl fridge magnet and on the previous magnets as well. I’ve been very happy with it. It heats up quickly and produced a nice steady bead of glue. Watch it in action in the tutorial video below!
Materials
- Yarn: Lion Brand DIY Yarn (100% acrylic, worsted weight, 65 yds / 30g per ball)
- 45 yds brown
- 10 yds red
- 10 yds white
- 1/2 yd each black and orange, OR black and orange embroidery thread
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Strong, flat magnet that will fit inside the sun (sample shown is 1 inch diameter)
- Xyron hot glue gun and glue stick
- Stitch marker (optional)
Project Level
Easy: Worked in the round, some pieces sewn together, some embroidery.
Size
About 2.5 inches in diameter, not counting ears.
Gauge
12 sc x 13 rounds = 4 inches
Use pattern as gauge swatch – After rnd 4, back circle should measure about 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical. Your fabric should be tight enough that the magnet won’t show through.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, then sc in both loops of same st. This counts as two stitches in the end of round stitch counts.
See this tutorial for a more detailed look.

Instructions
Join rounds where indicated with a slip stitch in the first stitch of the round. Slip stitches are not included in stitch counts unless otherwise specified. Mark first stitch of rounds if desired. Do not turn your work unless indicated.
Back
Back Circle
With brown, ch 2.
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) around, join. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around, join. (24 sts)
Do not fasten off.
Work should now measure about 2.25 inches in diameter.

Back Ears
Row 1 (RS): Sk first st, [sc in next st, (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, sc) in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next st] twice, leave remaining 15 sts unworked. (2 ears)

Fasten off, leaving a 24 inch tail for sewing.
Weave in the shorter, starting tail.
Magnet
Using hot glue gun, glue magnet to center of back circle, on the WS of work.

Set back piece aside.
Front
Front Circle
With red, ch 2.
Rnds 1-2: With red, repeat rnds 1-2 of back circle. At the end of rnd 2, change to brown and cut red, leaving a tail to weave in. (12 sc)
Rnds 3-4: With brown, repeat rnds 3-4 of back circle. (24 sts)

Front Ears
Row 1 (RS): Repeat row 1 of back ears.

Fasten off
Weave in tails and set front aside.
Eyes (Make 2)
Rnd 1 (RS): With white, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st to first st. (6 sc)

On one eye, fasten off leaving an 18 inch tail for sewing. On the other eye, fasten off as normal.
Assembly
Face
Using the pictures as a guide:
Use the long tail from one eye to sew both eyes to front.

With orange, embroider a beak just below the eyes.
With black, make a small stitch or french knot in the center of each eye.
Weave in all ends.
Join Front and Back
Place the front and back together so that wrong sides are together with ears lined up. The magnet should be hidden between them.

Use the long brown tail from the back to sew the front and back together, working just under the tops of the stitches along the outside edge.

Weave in any remaining tails.
Tufts
Cut a 4-inch length of red and fold it in half to form a loop. Insert hook, from to back, through both layers, at the tip of one ear. Pull the loop through until you have about a half-inch loop on the front.

Pull the red ends through the loop and tighten.

Trim ends to about 1/2 inch. Use a yarn needle to separate the ends into individual strands and fluff them out.

Repeat for the other ear.
Owl Fridge Magnet Video Tutorial
Watch This Video on YouTube

Rate this Owl Fridge Magnet Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this owl fridge magnet pattern. Big thanks to Karen Navoy for testing it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!

Dog Snood Crochet Pattern – Little Red Doggie Snood
My, what cute ears they have! Protect your dog’s sensitive ears from cold and wind, or just keep them out of the water bowl, with a little red doggie snood. This dog snood crochet pattern works up quickly and comes in 5 stretchy sizes.

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This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Christmas in July Make Along
This pattern is my first contribution to this year’s Christmas in July Make Along, hosted by Underground Crafter. Be sure to check out all the great patterns, and enter to win the giveaway too!

Earlier this month, I designed a knitting pattern for this same make-along. Make the Date Night Clutch for your next night out!

Mighty Miss Millie
I adopted Millie from a local rescue in February of 2020. It was just a few weeks before we went into lockdown for the pandemic. She’s sweet, sassy, funny, mischievous, and I can’t remember how I ever lived without her.
You can follow all her antics on her Instagram account, @MightyMissMillie
Materials
- Yarn: 55 [80, 125, 190, 270] yds worsted weight yarn.
- Hook: Size I / 5.5 mm hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions: Yarn Needle
Project Level
Easy: Single crochet, working in back loop only, increases and decreases, 1 seam.
Sizes
Teeny, [Precious, Cuddly, Fluffly, Sooper Floof]. Instructions are shown for Teeny size, with other sizes listed in [ ]
Measure the vertical head circumference under the chin and around the head, in front of the ears. Choose the size that best matches this measurement.

| Size | To fit head circumference: |
|---|---|
| Teeny | 8-10 inches |
| Precious | 10-13 inches |
| Cuddly | 13-17 inches |
| Fluffy | 17-22 inches |
| Sooper Floof | 22-27 inches |
Gauge
14 sc x 14 rows = 4 inches
Abbreviations used
blo = back loop only
ch = chain
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
st(s) = stich(es)
Instructions
Section 1 (double increases)
Chain 21 [25, 29, 33, 37]
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (20 [24, 28, 32, 36] sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in blo of first 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts, sc in each st across to last 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts, sc in blo of last 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in blo of first 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts, sc in next 4 [6, 8, 10, 12] sts, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in each st across to last 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts, sc in blo of last 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts. (22 [26, 30, 34, 38] sts)
Repeat rows 2-3 3 [5, 7, 9, 11] times more, then repeat row 2 once more. (28 [36, 44, 52, 60] sts)
Section 2 (single increases)
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in blo of first 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts, sc in next 4 [6, 8, 10, 12] sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in each st across to last 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts, sc in blo of last 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts. (29 [37, 45, 53, 61] sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in blo of first 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts, sc in each st across to last 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts, sc in blo of last 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts.
Repeat rows 1-2 1 [1, 2, 4, 6] times more. (30 [38, 47, 57, 67] sts)

Section 3 (single decreases)
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in blo of first 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts, sc in next 4 [6, 8, 10, 12] sts, sc2tog, sc in each st across to last 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts, sc in blo of last 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts. (29 [37, 46, 56, 66] sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in blo of first 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts, sc in each st across to last 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts, sc in blo of last 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts.
Repeat rows 1-2 1 [1, 2, 4, 6] times more. (28 [36, 44, 52, 60] sts)
Section 4 (double decreases)
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in blo of first 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts, sc in next 4 [6, 8, 10, 12] sts, sc2tog twice, sc in each st across to last 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts, sc in blo of last 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts. (26 [34, 42, 50, 58] sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in blo of first 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts, sc in each st across to last 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts, sc in blo of last 6 [6, 6, 8, 8] sts.
Repeat rows 1-2 3 [5, 7, 9, 11] times more, then repeat row 2 twice more. (20 [24, 28, 32, 36] sts)
Finishing
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Fold work in half, with right sides facing so that last row of section 4 lines up with first row of section 1. Using tail, sew first and last rows together.
Weave in all ends

The shorter side of your snood is meant to be the front. However, if your dog has a longer head, it can be worn the other way too.

I hope you enjoyed this dog snood crochet pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!

Lion Fridge Magnet Crochet Pattern
Go wild with an adorable, lion fridge magnet! This feline fridgie is a fun addition to any fridge or magnet board. They make a great gift too, so you may want to make a few!

This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
2021 Fridgies CAL
This lion fridge magnet is the July pattern in the 2021 Fridiges CAL! Crochet along through 12 magnet patterns. At the end of the year, you’ll have an adorable set of fridgies for yourself or for a gift! You may want to make 2 sets, so you don’t have to decide.

Enter the Giveaway
There will be several giveaways throughout the Fridgies CAL. This pattern kicks off the 3rd quarter and with it, a new prize! You could win 3 skeins of this sparkly, gorgeous, Date Nights yarn from Lion Brand!

Find all the giveaway details and learn more about the Fridgies Crochet Along here! Look for a new knitting pattern from me in this yarn soon. Once it’s ready, I’ll link it here.
Lion Brand DIY Yarn
Lion Brand provided all the yarn for this crochet along. Their DIY yarn comes in small balls, which is just perfect for the small amounts needed for each magnet. For the lion fridge magnet, you will need yellow, orange, and white, plus a small amount of black for the facial features.

If you’re not able to get this yarn or the colors you need, Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice or Basic Stitch are also good options. You can also substitute embroidery thread for the black yarn.
Xyron Glue Gun
The easiest way to attach your magnet to your crochet is with hot glue. For my magnets, I’m using this mini hot glue gun that Xyron gave me to try out.

I used it on this sun fridge magnet and on the previous magnets as well. I’ve been very happy with it. It heats up quickly and produced a nice steady bead of glue. Watch it in action in the tutorial video below!
Materials
- Yarn: Lion Brand DIY Yarn (100% acrylic, worsted weight, 65 yds / 30g per ball)
- 25 yds yellow
- 20 yds orange
- 10 yds white
- 1/2 yd black OR black embroidery thread
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Strong, flat magnet that will fit inside the sun (sample shown is 1 inch diameter)
- Xyron hot glue gun and glue stick
- Stitch marker (optional)
Project Level
Intermediate: Worked in the round, some back / front loop only stitches, several separate pieces sewn together, some embroidery.
Size
About 3 inches in diameter, not counting ears.
Gauge
12 sc x 13 rounds = 4 inches
Use pattern as gauge swatch – After rnd 4, back circle should measure about 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical. Your fabric should be tight enough that the magnet won’t show through.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
blo = back loop only
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
flo = front loop only
hdc = half double crochet
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, then sc in both loops of same st. This counts as two stitches in the end of round stitch counts.
See this tutorial for a more detailed look.

Instructions
Join rounds where indicated with a slip stitch in the first stitch of the round. Slip stitches are not included in stitch counts unless otherwise specified. Mark first stitch of rounds if desired. Do not turn your work unless indicated.
Back
Back Circle
With yellow, ch 2.
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) around, join. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around, join. (24 sts)
Do not fasten off.
Work should now measure about 2.25 inches in diameter.

Ears
Turn work to wrong side.
Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in flo of first st, sl st in flo of each of next 3 sts, (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in flo of next st. Leave remaining 19 sts unworked. (2 ears)

Cut yellow, leaving a 24 inch tail for sewing.
Back Mane
Continuing from ears and working into the stitches from Rnd 4 of back circle:
Rnd 5 (WS): With orange, (sl st, ch 5, sl st) in each of next 19 sts, working behind ears, (sl st, ch 5, sl st) in blo of each of next 5 sts. (24 ch-5 loops)

Fasten off. Weave in all ends except for the 24 inch yellow tail.
Magnet
Using hot glue gun, glue magnet to center of back circle, on the WS of work.

Set back piece aside.
Front
Front Circle
With yellow, ch 2.
Rnds 1-3: Repeat rnds 1-3 of back circle. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around, do not join. (24 sts)

Front Mane
Rnd 5 (RS): With orange, (sl st, ch 3, sl st) in each st around, join with sl st in first st. (24 ch-3 loops)

Fasten off. Weave in all tails. Set Front aside.
Muzzle
Rnd 1 (RS): With white, ch 2, (sc, 3 dc) twice in 2nd ch from hook. (6 dc, 2 sc)

Fasten off leaving an 18 inch tail for sewing.
Eyes (Make 2)
Rnd 1 (RS): With white, ch 2, (2 sc, sl st) twice in 2nd ch from hook. (4 sc)

On one eye, fasten off leaving an 18 inch tail for sewing. On the other eye, fasten off as normal.
Assembly
Face Pieces
With tails, and using picture as a guide for placement, sew muzzle and eyes to RS of front circle. Muzzle should be along bottom edge, with the eyes centered above it. Do not let any of the pieces overlap the front mane.

Weave in all ends on WS of front circle.
Facial Embroidery
Cut a piece of black yarn about 18 inches long, and weave it in at the back of the work to secure it. With this yarn and using the picture as a guide, embroider nose, mouth, and black part of eyes.

Weave in ends.
Join Front and Back
Place the front and back together so that wrong sides are together and magnet is hidden between them. Ears should be centered on top of face.

Using the long yellow tail from the back circle, sew front and back circles together around the edge of rnd 4 on both pieces. This is the edge of the yellow circle, before it changes to orange.

Weave in any remaining tails.
Lion Fridge Magnet Video Tutorial
Watch This Video on YouTube

Rate this Lion Fridge Magnet Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this lion fridge magnet pattern. Big thanks to Karen Navoy for testing it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!

Sun Fridge Magnet Crochet Pattern
Bring that summer sunshine indoors with the Sun Fridge Magnet! This happy little sun can brighten up even the gloomiest of days. They make great gifts too, so make a few!

This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
2021 Fridgies CAL
This bunny fridge magnet is the March pattern in the 2021 Fridiges CAL! Crochet along through 12 magnet patterns. At the end of the year, you’ll have an adorable set of fridgies for yourself or for a gift! You may want to make 2 sets, so you don’t have to decide.

Enter the Giveaway
There will be several giveaways throughout the Fridgies CAL. This quarter, you could win this gift set of fiber wash products from Unicorn Clean. It even includes an adorable plush!
Learn all about the Fridgies Crochet Along here, including how to enter the giveaways!
Lion Brand DIY Yarn
Lion Brand provided all the yarn for this crochet along. Their DIY yarn comes in small balls, which is just perfect for the small amounts needed for each magnet. For the sun fridge magnet, you will need yellow and orange, and a small amount of black for the facial features.

If you’re not able to get this yarn or the colors you need, Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice or Basic Stitch are also good options. You can also substitute embroidery thread for the black yarn.
Xyron Glue Gun
The easiest way to attach your magnet to your crochet is with hot glue. For my magnets, I’m using this mini hot glue gun that Xyron gave me to try out.

I used it on this sun fridge magnet and on the previous magnets as well. I’ve been very happy with it. It heats up quickly and produced a nice steady bead of glue. Watch it in action in the tutorial video below!
Materials
- Yarn: Lion Brand DIY Yarn (100% acrylic, worsted weight, 65 yds / 30g per ball)
- 25 yds yellow
- 10 yds orange
- 1/2 yd black OR black embroidery thread
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Strong, flat magnet that will fit inside the sun (sample shown is 1 inch diameter)
- Xyron hot glue gun and glue stick
- Stitch marker (optional)
Project Level
Easy: Worked in the round with some sewing and embroidery required.
Size
About 2.5 inches in diameter, not counting rays.
Gauge
12 sc x 13 rounds = 4 inches
Use pattern as gauge swatch – After rnd 3, back circle should measure about 1.75 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical. Your fabric should be tight enough that the magnet won’t show through.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, then sc in both loops of same st. This counts as two stitches in the end of round stitch counts.
See this tutorial for a more detailed look.

Instructions
Join rounds where indicated with a slip stitch in the first stitch of the round. Slip stitches are not included in stitch counts unless otherwise specified. Mark first stitch of rounds if desired. Do not turn your work unless indicated.
Back
Back Circle
With yellow, ch 2.
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) around, join. (18 sts)
Fasten off and weave in tails.
Work should now measure about 1.75 inches in diameter.

Rays
Turn back circle over to the wrong side. With WS facing, join orange by pulling up a loop in any stitch.
Rnd 4 (WS): [Ch 5, working into the back bumps of the chains, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in last ch, sk next st on back, sl st in next st on back] 8 times, ch 5, working into the back bumps of the chains, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in last ch, sk last st on back, sl st in same st as first st of rnd, where you joined the orange.

Fasten off, leaving an 18 inch tail for sewing.
Weave in all ends except for the long orange tail.
Magnet
Using hot glue gun, glue magnet to center of back circle, on the WS of work.

Set back piece aside.
Front
Front Circle
With yellow, ch 2.
Rnds 1-3: Repeat rnds 1-3 of back. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: (Sc, ch 1, sl st) in each st around.

Fasten off. Weave in all tails.
Face
Cut a piece of black yarn about 18 inches long, and weave it in at the back of the work to secure it. With this yarn and using the picture as a guide, make a French knot for each eye, and embroider a mouth.

Weave in any remaining tails on front.
Assembly
Place the front and back together so that wrong sides are together and magnet is hidden between them.

Using the long orange tail from the back, sew front and back together around the edge of rnd 3 on both pieces.

Weave in any remaining tails.
Sun Fridge Magnet Video Tutorial
Watch This Video on YouTube

Rate this Sun Fridge Magnet Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this Sun fridge magnet pattern. Big thanks to Karen Navoy for testing it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!

Raffia Crochet Sun Hat – Stepping Out
Stepping out into the summer sun? Take some shade along, with a raffia crochet sun hat. The Stepping Out sun hat is a fast and fun pattern using a unique yarn. Don’t like it so floppy? The pattern includes suggestions for adjusting the brim!

This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Hat of the Month CAL
This raffia crochet sun hat is my contribution to the Hat of the Month CAL. The year-long CAL event is hosted by Oombawka Designs and The Stitchin Mommy. Follow along for 3 new hat patterns every month! The other two patterns this month are the Just Another Day Hat by Oombawka Designs and the Bonfire Hat by The Stitch Mommy.
Make the Summer Scarf too!
Oombawka Designs and The Stitchin Mommy also run a Scarf of the Month CAL. My pattern for that CAL was the Stepping Out Summer Scarf, which coordinates beautifully with this hat!
King Cole Raffia Yarn
King Cole generously provided the yarn for this design. For the hat, I used their Raffia yarn. It’s 100% cellulose rayon in a ribbon yarn format. I thought it would be stiff and hard to work with but it was surprisingly flexible. I didn’t have any issues with splitting or fraying. It was even easy to weave in. I did weave in a little bit extra of a tail each time just because it’s not a “grippy” type of yarn, and I wanted to be sure the tails wouldn’t pull out.

For the optional cord, I used a lovely, lightweight, self striping yarn called Summer. This is the same yarn I used for the Stepping Out Summer Scarf pattern. I made my cord in the same yarn so that the hat and scarf would coordinate, but you can use any type of lace or cord that you prefer.
Clover Wonder Knitter
To make the cord, I used the Clover Wonder Knitter, which Clover had given me for free to review. It’s a new take on a traditional French knitting tool, with added features that make it so much faster and easier to use! Check out my full review and tutorial for all the details.

Materials
- Yarn: 225 yds King Cole Raffia, worsted weight yarn. 100% Cellulose Rayon, shown in color #1456 Natural
- Hook: Size J / 6 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- 34 [36, 38] inches ribbon, lace, or cord (optional – see note below)
The hat has an optional lace or cord woven into it. You can use a pre-made ribbon or cord, or can make your own. For mine I used King Cole Summer 4-ply, fingering weight yarn in color #4570 Crystal, and I knit it into a cord with the Clover Wonder Knitter.
Project Level
Easy: Mostly single crochet in the round, with increases and decreases, and some half double crochet.
Sizes
Child, [S/M, L]
Instructions are shown for child size, with other sizes listed in [ ]
| Size | To fit head circumference: |
|---|---|
| Child | 18-20 inches |
| S/M | 20-22 inches |
| L | 22-24 inches |
Gauge
12 sc x 12 rnds = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch – Rnds 1 – 6 should measure 4 inches in diameter.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
ch-sp = chain space
hdc = half double crochet
inc = increase (see Special Stitch)
rnd = round
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
st(s) = stitch(es)
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of next st, then sc in both loops of the same st. See full tutorial here.
Instructions
Entire hat is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
Crown
Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts) around. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: Sc in each of next 2 sts, (inc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts) around to last 2 sts, inc in next st, sc in next st. (30 sc)
Rnd 6: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 4 sts) around. (36 sc)
Rnd 7: Sc in each of next 3 sts, (inc in next st, sc in each of next 5 sts) around to last 3 sts, inc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts. (42 sc)
Rnd 8: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 6 sts) around. (48 sc)
Sizes S/M and L only:
Rnd 9: Sc in each of next 4 sts, (inc in next st, sc in each of next 7 sts) around to last 4 sts, inc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts. (54 sc)
Size L only:
Rnd 10: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 17 sts) around. (57 sc)
Middle
Rnd 1: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 16 [17, 18] sts) around. (51 [57, 60] sc)
Rnd 2: Sc in each of next 9 sts, (inc in next st, sc in each of next 17 [18, 19] sts) twice, inc in next st, sc in each of next 8 [9, 10] sts. (54 [60, 63] sc)
Rnd 3: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 18 [19, 20] sts) around. (57 [63, 66] sc)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 5: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 19 [20, 10] sts) around. (60 [66, 72] sc)
Rnd 6: Sc in each st around.
Repeat rnd 6 7 [8, 9] times more.
Eyelet rnd: (Hdc in next st, ch 1, sk next st) around (30 [33, 36] hdc, 30 [33, 36] ch-1 sps)
Last rnd: (Sk next st, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp) around. (60 [66, 72] sc)

Brim
Not all sizes start with rnd 1 – start with the rnd indicated for your size.
To adjust the size of the brim, stop after any round as desired, and continue to the edging.
Size Child only:
Rnd 1: Sc in each of next 5 sts, (inc in next st, sc in each of next 9 sts) around to last 5 sts, inc in next st, sc in each of next 4 sts. (66 sc)
Sizes Child & S/M only:
Rnd 2: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 10 sts) around. (72 sc)
All sizes:
Rnd 3: Sc in each of next 6 sts, (inc in next st, sc in each of next 11 sts) around to last 6 sts, inc in next st, sc in each of next 5 sts. (78 sc)
Rnd 4: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 12 sts) around. (84 sc)
Rnd 5: Sc in each of next 7 sts, (inc in next st, sc in each of next 13 sts) around to last 7 sts, inc in next st, sc in each of next 6 sts. (90 sc)
Rnd 6: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 14 sts) around. (96 sc)
Rnd 7: Sc in each of next 8 sts, (inc in next st, sc in each of next 15 sts) around to last 8 sts, inc in next st, sc in each of next 7 sts. (102 sc)
Rnd 8: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 16 sts) around. (108 sc)
Rnd 9: Sc in each of next 9 sts, (inc in next st, sc in each of next 17 sts) around to last 9 sts, inc in next st, sc in each of next 8 sts. (114 sc)
Sizes S/M and L only:
Rnd 10: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 18 sts) around. (120 sc)
Rnd 11: Sc in each of next 10 sts, (inc in next st, sc in each of next 19 sts) around to last 10 sts, inc in next st, sc in each of next 9 sts. (126 sc)
Rnd 12: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 20 sts) around. (132 sc)
Size L only:
Rnd 13: Sc in each of next 12 sts, (inc in next st, sc in each of next 21 sts) around to last 12 sts, inc in next st, sc in each of next 11 sts. (138 sc)
Edging
Rnd 1: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 2: Sl st in each st around.

Finishing
Fasten off
Weave in ends
Optional: Weave ribbon or cord through eyelets and tie in a bow at the back. Try making your own cord with the Clover Wonder Knitter!
Optional: Fold front brim up and tack it to body of hat with a decorative pin (this is how I like to wear mine). You can also sew it in place if you prefer.

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