Sometimes smaller is better. This snowflake crochet coin purse is just the right size for a few essentials. White embroidery adds a festive, finishing touch on the solid red background.

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2022 Bag Along CAL

This snowflake crochet coin purse is the final pattern in the 2022 Bag Along CAL. With this bag, we will have crocheted along through 6 different patterns, with multiple technique tutorials for each. See the main CAL post for the full schedule and links to previous patterns.

Enter the Giveaway

There was a giveaway to go along with each new bag pattern, which means this will be our final giveaway as well. All the giveaway details and entry forms are in the first post for the bag, which also lists all the materials needed

The giveaway prizes for the CAL are all sponsored by WeCrochet. This final giveaway ends on December 26th, 2022 at 11:59pm, central time, so be sure to get your entries in!

Snowflake Coin Purse

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Materials

• Yarn: Knit Picks Shine Sport – 60% Pima Cotton / 40% Modal natural beech wood fiber, sport weight yarn (110 yds / 50g per skein)
• 90 yds #24488 Serrano
• 5 yds #24486 White
• Hook: US size F (3.75 mm) hook or size needed to match gauge
• Notions:
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle
  • Stitch marker
  • 3 – 3.5″ Metal purse frame (see note)
  • Sewing needle
  • Sewing thread to match the Serrano yarn (or clear nylon thread)

Note: The frame I used is nearly square and measures about 3.25″ on each side, for a total perimeter of 13″. The width of the frame is less important than the total perimeter when open. If your frame is not quite square, it may be slightly wider or narrower but have the same total perimeter. The total perimeter of your purse frame should be 12.5-13.5″ when open.

Project Level

Intermediate: Split stitches in the round, embroidery and sewing to metal frame.

Size

Bottom: 3.25″ x 3.25″

Height: 4″

Gauge

16 ssc x 22 rnds = 4 inches.

Use pattern as gauge swatch – Bottom should measure approximately 3.25″ square.

Abbreviations used

(Pattern is written in US terms)

Recommended Resources

• Split / Center Stitches in the Round
• Split Single Crochet Tutorial (coming soon)
• Embroidery for Snowflake Coin Purse (coming soon)
• Attaching a Metal Purse Frame (coming soon)

Instructions

Join rnds where indicated with a sl st in the first st of the rnd.

Bottom

With serrano, ch 2.

Rnd 1 (RS): [Sc, ch 1] 4 times in 2nd ch from hook, join, sl st in first ch-1 sp. (4 sc, 4 ch-1 sps)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in first ch-1 sp, ssc in next st, [(sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ssc in next st] around, join. (8 sc, 4 ssc, 4 ch-1 sps).

Rnd 3: Ch 1, ssc in first st, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, [ssc in each st across to next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp] three times, ssc in each remaining st across, join, sl st in first ch-1 sp. (12 ssc, 4 ch-1 sps)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in first ch-1 sp, ssc in each st across to next ch-1 sp, [(sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ssc in each st across to next ch-1 sp] around, join, sl st in first ch-1 sp. (8 sc, 12 ssc, 4 ch-1 sps)

Rnd 5: Ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in first ch-1 sp, ssc in each st across to next ch-1 sp, [(sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ssc in each st across to next ch-1 sp] around, join. (8 sc, 20 ssc, 4 ch-1 sps)

Rnd 6-7: Repeat rnds 3-4. (8 sc, 28 ssc, 4 ch-1 sps)

Rnd 8: Repeat rnd 4. (8 sc, 36 ssc, 4 ch-1 sps)

Bottom should measure approximately 3.25 inches square. The perimeter (13 inches) should be approximately the same as the perimeter of your frame.

Body

Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in first ch-1 sp, ssc in each of next 11 sts, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ssc in each of next 11 sts,] around, join with sl st in blo of first sc. (4 sc, 44 ssc)

Rnds 10-34: Ch 1, sc in blo of first st, ssc in each of next 11 sts, [sc in blo of next st, ssc in each of next 11 sts] around, join with sl st in blo of first sc.

Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

Surface Crochet

Video tutorial for this section coming soon!

Working in back loop only has left a “ladder” of unused front loops in each corner.

Starting in any corner, insert hook into bag just underneath the bottom-most front loop (closest to the base).

Holding white yarn inside bag, draw up a loop of white.

Working towards the top of the bag, insert hook into bag just underneath next unworked front loop, draw up a loop, draw this loop through loop on hook (surface sl st made).

Surface sl st in this manner under each front loop to top of bag.

Fasten off.

Repeat for each of the other 3 corners.

Embroidered Snowflake

Video tutorial for this section coming soon!

With white yarn and yarn needle, embroider snowflakes as desired on 2 sides (front and back) of bag. Use the ssc sts as a grid to make 3 lines that cross each other in the middle. These are the spokes of the snowflake.

For larger snowflakes, embroider a small V shape near the tip of each spoke.

Use the tails to tack down any long “floats” on the inside of the bag. Weave in all ends.

Attach Purse Frame

Video tutorial for this section coming soon!

Stand bag up so base is flat and top opening forms a square.

Open purse frame flat. Match up the corners of the frame with the corners (surface crochet columns) of the bag.

If your purse frame is not perfectly square, you may need to adjust the top opening of the bag to fit the frame shape. In this case, your surface crochet columns may not be precisely in the corner. Just make sure that the front and back of the frame are centered. Mark the sts that will be the corners.

Using sewing thread and starting in right-front corner, sew frame to bag securely across front. I used a back stitch and went over each stitch twice. Make sure the next bag corner lines up with the next corner of the frame.

On the side edge, mark the center st. Sew frame to bag along the side edge so that the marked st is centered under the hinge. When you get to the hinge, where there are no holes to work into, skip 3 sts (or an odd number of sts that fits your frame), centered on the marked center st. Carry your thread through the skipped sts and continue sewing on the other side of the hinge.

Continue sewing bag to frame in the same manner for the other two sides of the bag.

Weave in the ends of your sewing thread and any other remaining ends.

From the inside of the bag, use yarn needle to push the top edge of the sts under the lip of the frame so that no sts are sticking out.

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I hope you enjoyed this cabled crochet tote bag pattern. 

A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

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Back to school or back to work, carry what you need in the Classic Cables Tote Bag! Columns of cables create a classic look that’s fabulous for fall. This cabled crochet tote bag pattern includes an optional lining and pocket for the strength to carry all your essentials.

This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.

This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.

2022 Bag Along CAL

The Classic Cables Tote Bag is the fourth pattern in the 2022 Bag Along CAL. Crochet along through 6 different bag patterns, with multiple technique tutorials for each. See the main CAL post for the full schedule.

Enter the Giveaway

With each new bag pattern, there will be a new giveaway as well! All the giveaway details and entry forms will be in the first post for each bag, which will also list all the materials needed for that bag. Here is the materials list and giveaway info for bag number 5.

The giveaway prizes for the CAL are all sponsored by WeCrochet. This fifth giveaway ends on October 28th, 2022 at 11:59pm, central time, so be sure to get your entries in!

Classic Cables Tote Bag

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Materials

• Yarn: 550 yds Knit Picks Mighty Stitch – 80% acrylic / 20% superwash wool, worsted weight yarn. Shown in color #26811 – Oyster.
• Hook: US size H / 5mm hook or size needed to match gauge
• Coton Lining Fabric (optional):
  • 1/2 yd if fabric width is at least 43″
  • 1 yd if fabric width is less than 43″
• Notions:
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle
  • 4 stitch markers
  • Basic sewing supplies for lining (optional)

Project Level

Intermediate: Crossed post stitch cables, working in the round, working around a circular handle.

Size

14 inches x 14 inches, not including handles.

Gauge

14 hdc x 10 rows = 4 inches.

Abbreviations used

(Pattern is written in US terms)
bpdc = back post double crochetch = chain
dc = double crochet
fpdc = front post double crochet
fptr = front post treble crochet
hdc = half double crochet
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)

Recommended Resources

• Classic Crochet Cables Tutorial
• Seaming Perpendicular Crochet Edges
• Mattress Stitch Seaming
• Box Bottom Bag Lining Tutorial

Instructions

Front/Back Panel (Make 2)

Video tutorial for this section coming soon!

Scroll down for charted version of this section.

Ch 51

Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 2^nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (50 hdc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of first 6 sts, *bpdc around next st, hdc in next st, bpdc around each of next 2 sts, hdc in next st, bpdc around next st**, hdc in each of next 26 sts, repeat from * to **, hdc in each of last 6 sts.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of first 6 sts, *fpdc around next st, hdc in next st, sk next st, fptr around next st, working in front of st just made, fptr around skipped st, hdc in next st, fpdc around next st**, hdc in each of next 26 sts, repeat from * to **, hdc in each of last 6 sts.

Row 4: Repeat row 2

Rows 5-34: Repeat rows 3-4 an additional 16 times.

Row 35: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. Fasten off.

Front/Back Panel should measure 14 x14 inches

Front/Back Panel Chart:

Straps (Make 2)

Ch 6

Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 2^nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (5 hdc)

Rows 2-74: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across.

Edging: Ch 1, turn, *2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st**, working in sides of rows sc in each row across, working in bottom of row 1 repeat from * to **, working in sides of rows, sc in each row across, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off.

Bottom / Side Strip

Ch 11

Place a stitch marker in the top of the stitch at each end of row 18 on each side.

Side 1

Row 1: Sc in 2^nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (10 sc)

Rows 2-53: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. Fasten off.

Side 2

With RS facing and working into the bottom of row 1, join yarn with a sl st in first st.

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (10 sc)

Rows 2-53: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. Fasten off.

The section between the stitch markers is the bottom, the rest is the two sides.

Assembly

Weave in all ends and wash and block all pieces before assembling.

Attach straps

With right sides up, place the right end of a strap behind the rightmost cable on either front/back panel, overlapping by about an inch. Sew the two pieces together all around the overlapping section and then make a few stitches in the middle for added strength.

Being careful not to twist, sew the left end of the same strap behind the leftmost cable on the same panel. If you want to do the optional edging later, then do not sew through the very tops of the stitches on the panel.

Repeat for 2^nd strap, attaching it to the other panel.

Attach bottom/side strip

Line up the bottom edge of a front/back panel with one side edge of the bottom/side strip, between the stitch markers. The stitch markers should line up with the corners of the panel. Make sure the right sides of the panel and strip are facing the same direction.

Sew the two pieces together along this edge, between the stitch markers. (Video tutorial coming soon for invisible seam)

Sew the other panel to the opposite side of the bottom/side strip in the same way.

Sew the remaining side strip to the side edges of the panel using a mattress stitch and matching the rows as you go. The top edges of all pieces should match up.

Weave in any remaining ends.

Top Edging (optional):

Join yarn with sl st in any st on top edge. Sc in each st around, join with a sl st to first st. (72 sc)

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Box Bottom Lining (optional)

Video tutorial for this section coming soon!

Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise indicated.

Cut Fabric

Using the cutting diagram below as a guide, cut the following three fabric pieces. 

• Front/Back Panel: 18” wide x 16.5” tall – cut 2.
• Pocket: 7” wide x 14” tall – cut 1.

Pocket

Make pocket square

With right sides together, fold pocket in half widthwise to make a 7”x7” square. The folded edge is the top of the pocket square.

Sew the side edges together, and about 2 inches in on each side of the bottom, leaving about a 2-inch opening for turning the fabric.

Push the pocket through the gap to turn it right side out.

Fold the edges of the gap in to match the seam, and press pocket flat.

You should now have a 6”x6” square with no wrong side.

Attach pocket to lining

Pin the pocket square into place on the right side of one of the front/back panels with the open gap at the bottom. The pocket should be 6 inches in from each side of the panel, and about 2.5 inches down from the top edge.

Pay attention that you have the panel aligned correctly. The longer edges are the top and bottom, and the shorter edges are the sides.

Topstitch around the sides and bottom of the pocket, making your seam as close to the edges as you comfortably can. To give the pocket more strength, sew a small triangle at each top corner.

Sew Front to Back

Place front and back panels with right sides together so that all edges line up.

Sew panels together along the side and bottom edges.

Press lining flat.

Boxed Corners

Cut the corners

With wrong side out, draw a 1” square at each bottom corner, measuring from the seams.

Be sure to measure from the seams, not from the edge of the fabric. Do not include any of the seam allowances in your measurement.

Double-check your measurements and then cut the squares out of each corner. It is ok that you are cutting through the seams.

Sew the corner seam

Flatten the seams at one corner, then fold the cut edges so that the side and bottom seams match up. Pin or clip them together.

The corner of the lining should now form a triangle, with the point cut off and the seams running through the middle.

Sew the ends together with a 1/2” seam allowance. Your corner seam should be about 3” long from end to end.

Repeat this seam with the other bottom corner.

Top hem:

Press side and bottom seams flat.

Fold top edge of lining over by 1/2 inch and clip in place, then sew/hem around the edge with a 3/8-inch seam allowance.

Sew lining to bag.

Insert lining into bag, with wrong sides together. The side seams of the lining should line up with the middle of the side strips on the bag.

Sew the lining to the bag around the top edge. I prefer to do this seam by hand rather than on a machine, so that there’s less risk of damaging the yarn.

Share this cabled crochet tote bag pattern on Pinterest! Here’s an image perfect for pinning.

Rate this Cabled Crochet Tote Bag Pattern!

I hope you enjoyed this cabled crochet tote bag pattern. 

A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!