Free Crochet Patterns
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Free Pattern – Fierté
This Thanksgiving, in the wake of the attacks in Paris and other parts of the world, I am particularly grateful for the safety and comfort that I have. Today, a few of my friends and I are posting patterns in honor of / support for France, and this is mine. This easy, somewhat slouchy, hat pattern features a wide band with a French flag detail.
Please be sure to check out some of the other patterns too (note – some of these links may not be active right away, but should all be up at some point today):
- Patriot Square Coaster by American Crochet
- French Flag Graph on Creative Threads by Leah
- Nous Sommes Le Globe by Crafting in Yoohooville
If you are looking for donation opportunities to help support Paris and victims of terrorism throughout the world, here are a few options:
- Doctors Without Borders
- The Red Cross:
- French charities providing support (sites are in French)
Nous sommes tous Parisienne. Nous sommes tous Français. Nous sommes tous humains.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Fierté
Add this to your Ravelry Queue
Materials:
- Worsted Weight yarn: 200 yds grey, 5-10 yds each of red, white, and blue
- Size H/8 (5 mm) crochet hook or size needed to achieve gauge
- Yarn / tapestry needle
Difficulty:
Easy – Mostly sc & dc, worked in the round, some working into back loops, and one round of post stitches.
Size:
Adult / One size fits most – ribbed band is approximately 17″ around.
Gauge:
14 sc x 16 rows = 4″.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- csdc = chainless starting double crochet (see Recommended Resources)
- fpdc = front post double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- rnd = round
Recommended Resources:
Band:
Note: Leave an 8″ starting tail for seaming band together later.
Row 1 (WS): With grey, work 10 fsc (or ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across). (10 sts)
Rows 2-6: Ch 1, turn, sc in back loop only of each st across, changing to blue at end of row 3. Fasten off grey.
Rows 7-9: With blue, Ch 1, turn, sc in back loop only of each st across, changing to white at end of row 9. Fasten off blue.
Rows 10-12: With white, ch 1, turn, sc in back loop only of each st across, changing to red at end of row 13. Fasten off white.
Rows 13-15: With red, ch 1, turn, sc in back loop only of each st across, changing to grey at end of row 16. Fasten off red.
Rows 16-56: With grey, ch 1, turn, sc in back loop only of each st across. Do not fasten off.
Note: Band should now measure approximately 17″ long without stretching, and should fit snuggly around your head. If it does not, you may need to adjust your gauge and start over.
Hat:
Rnd 1 (RS): Working in edges of rows along band, ch 1, work 72 sc evenly spaced across, join with sl st in first st. (72 sts)
Note: This may seem like a lot of stitches to fit in, but it’s supposed to be – it’s an increase row which makes the hat flare out, giving it the slouchy effect.
Rnd 2: Ch 2 (counts as fpdc), turn, fpdc around next st and each st around, join.
Note: For the following rounds, if you prefer not to use the csdc technique, you can replace it with “Ch 3, (counts as first dc)”, although that will make a more noticeable join.
Rnds 3-10: Turn, csdc in first st, dc in each st around join.
Rnd 11: Turn, csdc in first st, dc2tog in next 2 sts, (dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog in next 2 sts) 11 times, dc in last 3 sts, join. (60 sts)
Rnd 12: Turn, csdc in first st, dc2tog in next 2 sts, (dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog in next 2 sts) 11 times, dc in last 2 sts, join. (48 sts)
Rnd 13: Turn, csdc in first st, dc2tog in next 2 sts, (dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog in next 2 sts) 11 times, dc in last st, join. (36 sts)
Rnd 14: Turn, csdc in first st, dc2tog in next 2 sts, (dc in next st, dc2tog in next 2 sts) 11 times, join. (24 sts)
Rnd 15: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, dc in next st, (dc2tog in next 2 sts) 11 times, join. (12 sts)
Rnd 16: Ch 1, turn, (sc2tog in next 2 sts) around, join, fasten off, (6 sts)
Finishing:
- Using ending tail, sew hole at top of hat closed.
- Using starting tail, sew edges of band together.
- With right side facing, join grey in seam. Working into sides of rows along bottom of hat, ch 1, work 56 sc evenly spaced around, join, fasten off.
- Weave in all remaining ends.
I hope you enjoy the pattern – big thanks to Diane Hunt for testing it for me!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store for a $1 fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
If you would like to receive notifications of new posts and patterns as they become available, please follow this blog. You can follow by e-mail (look at the sidebar on the right for the follow by email option), or via RSS feed, or via your WordPress.com reader: Follow Stitches ‘N’ Scraps on WordPress.com
Free Pattern – Non-stop slippers- Baby sizes
These boxy-toe slippers are worked all in one piece, never needing to break the yarn until you’re finished (unless you want to incorporate more colors). The sole is worked first, with the rest of the slipper built up from there, which makes it easy to add a 2nd sole for extra padding if desired. These slippers can also be a great blank canvas for your creativity – make them your own by working different sections in different colors, adding a drawstring around the ankle, or adding your favorite embellishments!
The Non-Stop Slippers pattern is available in a total of 9 sizes, from infant all the way up to adult, so you can make a pair for everyone! This post contains the instructions for the baby sizes (0-6 mo, 6-12 mo). Follow these links for the adult sizes (s, m, l, xl), and the child sizes (s, m, l).
This pattern was designed for the #HolidayStashdownCAL2015. Check out this post for official rules and links!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Non-Stop Slippers – Baby Sizes
Add this to your Ravelry Queue
Materials:
- Worsted weight yarn: 75 – 150 yds
- Size H / 8 (5 mm) hook or size needed to achieve gauge
- Yarn or tapestry needle
- Locking stitch marker
Difficulty:
Intermediate – front and back post stitches, decreases, and changing direction of work to create 3 dimensions.
Sizes:
Instructions are written for 0-6 months, with changes for 6-12 months in ( ). Find the right size by measuring the length of the child’s foot or of a well fitting shoe, and choosing the size closest to that measurement. If you’re measuring their foot, be sure to add a little “wiggle room”. Sole should measure approximately 3.5 (4.5) inches long and 2 inches wide at the widest point.
Gauge:
14 sc x 15 rows = 4″ square.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- fsc = foundation single crochet
- sc = single crochet
- fphdc = front post half double crochet
- bphdc = back post half double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- fp sl st = front post slip stitch
- bp sl st = back post slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources:
- Foundation Single Crochet (fsc) – by Moogly
- Single Crochet Decrease Stitch (sc2tog) – by Articles of A Domestic Goddess
- Invisible Single Crochet Decrease (sc2tog – alternate version) – by The Hooked Haberdasherer
- Front Post / Back Post slip stitches (fp sl st / bp sl st) – by me!
- Front/Back Post Half Double Crochet (fphdc / bphdc) – by Articles of a Domestic Goddess
Sole Options:
- The sole is worked from heel to toe and is the same for both feet. For a basic slipper / slipper sock, follow instructions as written. This is a good option if you want more of a sock-like feel, or if you want to attach a sewn on, outer sole (like leather or suede soles you can buy at the store).
- For a thicker, cushier sole, make an extra pair of soles and sew the 2nd (outer) sole on at the end. With this option, you may need a 2nd skein of yarn for the larger sizes. This is a good option if you want to add a painted on, non-skid finish. You can add your chosen finish to the outer sole before sewing it on, so the inner sole stays soft and clean.
Sole:
Row 1 [RS]: Work 4 fsc, OR ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. [4 sc]
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st [6 sc]
Rows 4-10 (14): Repeat row 2
Row 11 (15): Ch 1, turn, sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog over last 2 sts. [4 sts]
Edging Rnd: Ch 1, do NOT turn. Working into sides of rows along edge of sole, work 9 (13) sc evenly spaced to the bottom corner. Working along bottom of row 1, 3 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 3 sc in last st. Working into sides of rows, work 9 (13) sc evenly spaced to top corner. Working into last row, 3 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 3 sc in last st, join with sl st to first st of round. Do NOT fasten off. [34 (42) sc]
If possible, place the child’s foot on the sole. The sole should be about the same size as the foot, and no part of the foot should be hanging over the edges. Adjust to a larger/smaller hook, or larger/smaller pattern size if needed before continuing.
Sides:
Rnd 1 [WS]: Ch 1, turn, fphdc around each st around, join with sl st to first st.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first st. Do NOT fasten off.
Instep:
Row 1 [WS]: Turn, sk first st, sc in next 6 sts, fp sl st around each of next 2 sts, leaving remaining sts unworked. [6 sc]
Row 2: Turn, skip sl sts, sc in each sc across, bp sl st around each of next 2 unworked sts from sides.
Row 3: Turn, skip sl sts, sc in each sc across, fp sl st around each of next 2 unworked sts from sides.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2
6-12 months only: Rows 5-6: Repeat row 3, then repeat row 2.
Both sizes: Row 5 (7): Turn, skip sl sts, sc in each sc across, fp sl st around next unworked st from sides, do not fasten off.
Ankle:
Rnd 1 [RS]: Ch 1, turn, skip sl st, sc in each sc across instep, (for 6-12 months only – mark last st), sc in each unworked st from sides, join with sl st to first st. Do not fasten off. [22 (26) sc]
6-12 months only:
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc to 2 sts before marker, sc2tog over next 2 sts, remove marker, sc in next 6 sts, join with sl st to first st. [24 sc]
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc around to last 2 sts, sc2tog over last 2 sts, join with sl st to first st. Do not fasten off. [22 sc]
Cuff:
Rnd 1[RS]: Do NOT turn, ch 2 (counts as bphdc), fphdc around next st, [bphdc around next st, fphdc around next st] around, join with sl st to first st.
Rnd 2: Do NOT turn, ch 2 (counts as bphdc), fphdc around next fphdc, [bphdc around next bphdc, fphdc around next fphdc] around, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off.
Note: For a longer cuff, repeat rnd 2 to desired length.
Finishing:
- Weave in ends
- Add extra soles and/or non-skid finishes as desired (see sole options above)
- Add embellishments as desired.
I hope you enjoy the pattern – remember it’s available in adult sizes and child sizes too! Big thanks to Timiae Knoll, wilmaelee, andanteknitter, and mbwross for testing this pattern.
If you would like to receive notifications of new posts and patterns as they become available, please follow this blog. You can follow by e-mail (look at the sidebar on the right for the follow by email option), or via RSS feed, or via your WordPress.com reader: Follow Stitches ‘N’ Scraps on WordPress.com
Free Pattern – Non-stop slippers- Adult sizes
These boxy-toe slippers are worked all in one piece, never needing to break the yarn until you’re finished (unless you want to incorporate more colors). The sole is worked first, with the rest of the slipper built up from there, which makes it easy to add a 2nd sole for extra padding if desired.
These slippers can also be a great blank canvas for your creativity – make them your own by working different sections in different colors, adding a drawstring around the ankle, or adding your favorite embellishments!
The Non-Stop Slippers pattern is available in a total of 9 sizes, from infant all the way up to adult, so you can make a pair for everyone! This post contains the instructions for the adult sizes (s, m, l, xl). Follow these links for the child sizes (s, m, l) and the baby sizes (0-6 mo, 6-12 mo).
This pattern was designed for the #HolidayStashdownCAL2015. Check out this post for official rules and links!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Non-Stop Slippers – Adult Sizes
Add this to your Ravelry Queue
Materials:
- Worsted weight yarn: 150 – 250 yds
- Size H / 8 (5 mm) hook or size needed to achieve gauge
- Yarn or tapestry needle
- Locking stitch marker
Difficulty:
Intermediate – front and back post stitches, decreases, and changing direction of work to create 3 dimensions.
Sizes:
Instructions are written for small, with changes for medium, large, and xl in ( ). If possible, find the right size by measuring the length of the wearer’s foot or of a well fitting shoe, and choosing the size closest to that measurement. If you’re measuring the foot, be sure to add a little “wiggle room”. Sole should measure approximately 8.5 (9.5, 10.5, 11.5) inches long and 3.25 (3.75, 3.75, 4.25) inches wide at the widest point.
Gauge:
14 sc x 15 rows = 4″ square
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- fsc = foundation single crochet
- sc = single crochet
- fphdc = front post half double crochet
- bphdc = back post half double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- fp sl st = front post slip stitch
- bp sl st = back post slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources:
- Foundation Single Crochet (fsc) – by Moogly
- Single Crochet Decrease Stitch (sc2tog) – by Articles of A Domestic Goddess
- Invisible Single Crochet Decrease (sc2tog – alternate version) – by The Hooked Haberdasherer
- Front Post / Back Post slip stitches (fp sl st / bp sl st) – by me!
- Front/Back Post Half Double Crochet (fphdc / bphdc) – by Articles of a Domestic Goddess
Sole Options:
- The sole is worked from heel to toe and is the same for both feet. For a basic slipper / slipper sock, follow instructions as written. This is a good option if you want more of a sock-like feel, or if you want to attach a sewn on, outer sole (like leather or suede soles you can buy at the store).
- For a thicker, cushier sole, make an extra pair of soles and sew the 2nd (outer) sole on at the end. With this option, you may need a 2nd skein of yarn for the larger sizes. This is a good option if you want to add a painted on, non-skid finish. You can add your chosen finish to the outer sole before sewing it on, so the inner sole stays soft and clean.
Note:
“In-progress” pictures show child size slipper.
Sole:
Row 1: Work 6 fsc, OR ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. [6 sc]
Row 2 [RS]: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 2sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2sc in last st [8 sc]
Rows 4-5: Repeat rows 2-3 [10 sc]
Rows 6-11: Repeat row 2
Row 12: Repeat row 2 (3, 3, 3) [10 (12, 12, 12) sc]
Rows 13-18: Repeat row 2
Row 19: Repeat row 2 (2, 2, 3) [10 (12, 12, 14) sc]
Rows 20-27 (29, 33, 35): Repeat row 2
Row 28 (30, 34, 36): Ch 1, turn, sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog over last 2 sts. [8 (10, 10, 12 sts)]
Row 29-30 (31-34, 35-38, 37-42): Repeat the last 2 rows one (two, two, three) more times. [6sc]
Rnd 31 (35, 39, 43): Ch 1, do NOT turn. Working into sides of rows along edge of sole, work 28 (32, 36, 40) sc evenly spaced to the bottom corner. Working along bottom of row 1, 3sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, 3 sc in last st. Working into sides of rows, work 28 (32, 36, 40) sc evenly spaced to top corner. Working into last row, 3 sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, 3 sc in last st, join with sl st to first st of round. Do NOT fasten off. [76 (84, 92, 100) sc]
Place your foot on the sole. The sole should be about the same size as your foot, and no part of your foot should be hanging over the edges. Adjust to a larger/smaller hook, or larger/smaller pattern size if needed before continuing.
Sides:
Rnd 1 [RS]: Do NOT turn, bphdc around each st around, join with sl st to first st. [76 (84, 92, 100) sc]
Rnds 2-3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first st. Do NOT fasten off.
Instep:
Row 1 [WS]: Turn, sk first st, sc in next 8 sts, fp sl st around each of next 2 sts, leaving remaining sts unworked. [8sc]
Row 2: Turn, skip sl sts, sc in each sc across, bp sl st around each of next 2 unworked sts from sides.
Row 3: Turn, skip sl sts, sc in each sc across, fp sl st around each of next 2 unworked sts from sides.
Row 4: Turn, skip sl sts, 2 sc in next sc, sc in each sc across to last sc, 2sc in last sc, bp sl st around each of next 2 unworked sts from sides. [10 sc]
Rows N/A (5-6, 5-6, 5-8): Repeat rows 3 & 4 zero (one, one, two) times more [10, (12, 12, 14) sc]
Note: the “N/A” and “zero times more” in the above set of rows means the instructions are not worked at all for the small size.
Rows 5-16 (7-18, 7-20, 9-22): Repeat row 3, then repeat rows 2 & 3 five (five, six, six) times more, then repeat row 2 once more.
Row 17 (19, 21, 23): Turn, skip sl sts, sc in each sc across, fp sl st around next unworked st from sides, do not fasten off.
Ankle:
Rnd 1 [RS]: Ch 1, turn, sk sl st, sc in each sc across instep, mark last st, sc in each unworked st from sides, join with sl st to first st. [44, (50, 54, 60) sc]
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc to 2 sts before marker, sc2tog over next 2 sts, remove marker, sc in next 10 (12, 12, 14) sts, join with sl st to first st. [42, (48, 52, 58) sc]
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 10 (12, 12, 14) sts, mark last st worked, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc around to last 2 sts, sc2tog over last 2 sts, join with sl st to first st. [40, (46, 50, 56) sc]
Rnds 4-5 (7, 9, 11): Repeat rnds 2 & 3 one (two, three, four) times more. [36, (38, 38, 40) sc]
Cuff:
Rnd 1: Do NOT turn, ch 2 (counts as bphdc), fphdc around next st, [bphdc around next st, fphdc around next st] around, join with sl st to first st.
Rnds 2-4 (5, 5): Do NOT turn, ch 2 (counts as bphdc), fphdc around next fphdc, [bphdc around next bphdc, fphdc around next fphdc] around, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off.
Note: for a longer cuff, repeat last rnd to desired length.
Finishing:
- Weave in ends
- Add extra soles and/or non-skid finishes as desired (see sole options above)
- Add embellishments as desired.
I hope you enjoy the pattern – remember it’s available in child sizes and baby sizes too! Big thanks to silphi, LinMarie and craftyvic for testing this pattern.
If you would like to receive notifications of new posts and patterns as they become available, please follow this blog. You can follow by e-mail (look at the sidebar on the right for the follow by email option), or via RSS feed, or via your WordPress.com reader: Follow Stitches ‘N’ Scraps on WordPress.com
Free Pattern – Non-stop slippers- Child sizes
These boxy-toe slippers are worked all in one piece, never needing to break the yarn until you’re finished (unless you want to incorporate more colors). The sole is worked first, with the rest of the slipper built up from there, which makes it easy to add a 2nd sole for extra padding if desired. These slippers can also be a great blank canvas for your creativity – make them your own by working different sections in different colors, adding a drawstring around the ankle, or adding your favorite embellishments!
The Non-Stop Slippers pattern is available in a total of 9 sizes, from infant all the way up to adult, so you can make a pair for everyone! This post contains the instructions for the child sizes (s, m, l). Follow these links for the adult sizes (s, m, l, xl), and the baby sizes (0-6 mo, 6-12 mo)
This pattern was designed for the #HolidayStashdownCAL2015. Check out this post for official rules and links!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Non-Stop Slippers – Child Sizes
Add this to your Ravelry Queue
Materials:
- Worsted weight yarn: 150 – 250 yds
- Size H / 8 (5 mm) hook or size needed to achieve gauge
- Yarn or tapestry needle
- Locking stitch marker
Difficulty:
Intermediate – front and back post stitches, decreases, and changing direction of work to create 3 dimensions.
Sizes:
Instructions are written for small, with changes for medium and large in ( ). Find the right size by measuring the length of the child’s foot or of a well fitting shoe, and choosing the size closest to that measurement. If you’re measuring their foot, be sure to add a little “wiggle room”. Sole should measure approximately 5.5 (6.5, 7.5) inches long and 2.5 (2.5, 3.25) inches wide at the widest point.
Gauge:
14 sc x 15 rows = 4″ square.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- fsc = foundation single crochet
- sc = single crochet
- fphdc = front post half double crochet
- bphdc = back post half double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- fp sl st = front post slip stitch
- bp sl st = back post slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources:
- Foundation Single Crochet (fsc) – by Moogly
- Single Crochet Decrease Stitch (sc2tog) – by Articles of A Domestic Goddess
- Invisible Single Crochet Decrease (sc2tog – alternate version) – by The Hooked Haberdasherer
- Front Post / Back Post slip stitches (fp sl st / bp sl st) – by me!
- Front/Back Post Half Double Crochet (fphdc / bphdc) – by Articles of a Domestic Goddess
Sole Options:
- The sole is worked from heel to toe and is the same for both feet. For a basic slipper / slipper sock, follow instructions as written. This is a good option if you want more of a sock-like feel, or if you want to attach a sewn on, outer sole (like leather or suede soles you can buy at the store).
- For a thicker, cushier sole, make an extra pair of soles and sew the 2nd (outer) sole on at the end. With this option, you may need a 2nd skein of yarn for the larger sizes. This is a good option if you want to add a painted on, non-skid finish. You can add your chosen finish to the outer sole before sewing it on, so the inner sole stays soft and clean.
Sole:
Row 1: Work 6 fsc, OR ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. [6 sc]
Row 2 [RS]: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st [8 sc]
Rows 4-7: Repeat row 2
Row 8: Repeat row 2 (2, 3) [8 (8, 10) sc]
Rows 9-16 (19, 21): Repeat row 2
Row 17 (20, 22): Ch 1, turn, sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog over last 2 sts. [6 (6, 8) sts]
Row 18-19 (21-22, 23-26): Repeat the last 2 rows one (one, two) more times. [4 sc]
Edging Rnd: Ch 1, do NOT turn. Working into sides of rows along edge of sole, work 17 (20, 24) sc evenly spaced to the bottom corner. Working along bottom of row 1, 3sc in first st, sc across to last st, 3 sc in last st. Working into sides of rows, work 17 (20, 24) sc evenly spaced to top corner. Working into last row, 3 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 3 sc in last st, join with sl st to first st of round. Do NOT fasten off. [52 (58, 66) sc]
If possible, place the child’s foot on the sole. The sole should be about the same size as the foot, and no part of the foot should be hanging over the edges. Adjust to a larger/smaller hook, or larger/smaller pattern size if needed before continuing.
Sides:
Rnd 1 [WS]: Ch 1, turn, fphdc around each st around, join with sl st to first st. [52 (58, 66) sc]
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first st. Do NOT fasten off.
Instep:
Row 1 [WS]: Turn, sk first st, sc in next 6 sts, fp sl st around each of next 2 sts, leaving remaining sts unworked. [6sc]
Row 2: Turn, skip sl sts, sc in each sc across, bp sl around each of next 2 unworked sts from sides.
Row 3: Turn, skip sl sts, sc in each sc across, fp sl st around each of next 2 unworked sts from sides.
Row 4: Turn, skip sl sts, 2sc in next sc, sc in each sc across to last sc, 2sc in last sc, bp sl st around each of next 2 unworked sts from sides. [8 sc]
Large size only – Rows 5-6: Repeat rows 3 & 4 once more [10 sc]
All sizes:
Rows 5-8 (5-10, 7-12): Repeat row 3, then repeat rows 2 & 3 one (two, two) times more, then repeat row 2 once more.
Row 9 (11, 13): Turn, skip sl sts, sc in each sc across, bp sl st around next unworked st from sides, do not fasten off.
Ankle:
Rnd 1 [RS]: Ch 1, turn, skip sl st, sc in each sc across instep, mark last st, sc in each unworked st from sides, join with sl st to first st. [36, (38, 44) sc]
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc to 2 sts before marker, sc2tog over next 2 sts, remove marker, sc in next 8 (10, 10) sts, join with sl st to first st. [34 (36, 42) sc]
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 8 (10, 10) sts, mark last st worked, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc around to last 2 sts, sc2tog over last 2 sts, join with sl st to first st. [32 (34, 40) sc]
Rnd(s) 4-6 (6, 8): Repeat rnds 2 & 3 one (one, two) times more, then repeat rnd 2 once more. [26 (28, 30) sc]
Cuff:
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as bphdc), turn, fphdc around next st, [bphdc around next st, fphdc around next st] around, join with sl st to first st.
Rnds 2-3: Do NOT turn, ch 2 (counts as bphdc), fphdc around next fphdc, [bphdc around next bphdc, fphdc around next fphdc] around, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off.
Note: for a longer cuff, repeat last round to desired length.
Finishing:
- Weave in ends
- Add extra soles and/or non-skid finishes as desired (see sole options above)
- Add embellishments as desired.
I hope you enjoy the pattern – remember it’s available in adult sizes and baby sizes too! Big thanks to NerdlingAlong and mbwross for testing this pattern.
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Free Pattern – Bruges Lace Napkin Ring
Follow my blog with BloglovinIf you’ve never done Bruges lace, this pattern is a great introduction! Before you start, be sure to check out my new Bruges Lace tutorial. Basic Bruges lace is really nothing more than the stitches you already know, with lots of chain spaces and slip stitches to create interlocking loops. These chain spaces create the beautiful lacy effect. Make yourself a set of these quick, easy, and elegant napkin rings for your holiday table this year!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Bruges Lace Napkin Ring
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Materials:
- Size 10 crochet thread – 10-20 yds for each napkin ring
- Size 3 (2.1 mm) crochet hook or size needed to achieve gauge
- Embroidery/Tapestry needle
- Cardboard tube from paper towel or toilet paper roll (for blocking)
- Pins (for blocking)
- Liquid starch or fabric stiffener
- Wax paper (to cover cardboard tube)
Difficulty:
Easy to Intermediate – mostly basic stitches, the only potentially difficult part is joining the chain spaces, particularly at the ends.
Size:
Approx 5″ circumference
Gauge:
Gauge is not critical – after row 6, work should measure about 2″ long.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Tutorial:
Notes:
- Pattern is provided in both chart and written form – they are the same pattern.
- Blocking is VERY important for this project. Be sure to block your work.
- Want to make this a hair tie instead? Thread some decorative elastic through the spaces in the middle, and sew it in place under the curved end so it doesn’t show. It’s still important to block it, to open up the lace, but you can skip the fabric stiffener or starch.
Instructions:
Row 1 (WS): Ch 8, dc in 6th ch from hook and in last 2 chs (3 dc, 1 ch loop)
Rows 2-10: Ch 5, turn, dc in each st across (3 dc, 1 ch loop)
Row 11: Ch 5, turn, sc in first st, hdc in next st, dc in last st
Row 12: Ch 7, turn, dc in first st, hdc in next st, sc in last st
Row 13: Ch 2, sl st in ch loop from row 11, ch 2, turn, sc in first st, hdc in next st, dc in last st
Row 14: Ch 5, turn, dc in first st, hdc in next st, sc in last st
Row 15: Repeat row 13
Row 16: Repeat row 12
Row 17: Repeat row 13
Row 18: Repeat row 2
Row 19: Ch 2, sl st in ch loop from row 9, ch 2, turn, dc in each st across
Row 20: Repeat row 2
Row 21: Ch 2, sl st in ch loop from row 7, ch 2, turn, dc in each st across
Row 22: Repeat row 2
Row 23: Ch 2, sl st in ch loop from row 5, ch 2, turn, dc in each st across
Row 24: Repeat row 2
Row 25: Ch 2, sl st in ch loop from row 3, ch 2, turn, dc in each st across
Row 26: Repeat row 2
Row 27: Ch 2, sl st in ch loop from row 1, ch 2, turn, dc in each st across
Row 28: Repeat row 2
Row 29: Repeat row 11
Row 30: Ch 3, sl st in ch loop from row 16, ch 3, turn, dc in first st, hdc in next st, sc in last st
Row 31: Ch 2, sl st in ch loop from row 29, ch 2, turn, sc in first st, hdc in next st, dc in last st
Row 32: Ch 2, sl st in ch loop from row 14, ch 2, turn, dc in first st, hdc in next st, sc in last st
Row 33: Repeat row 31
Row 34: Ch 3, sl st in ch loop from row 12, ch 3, turn, dc in first st, hdc in next st, sc in last st
Row 35: Repeat row 31
Row 36: Repeat row 2
Joining: Turn, working through sts from row 36 and foundation ch from row 1, sl st in each st across. Fasten off, weave in ends. Turn to right side before blocking.
Blocking:
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Red Eye square
This is the last of four 5 inch squares I made as homework for a crochet retreat. It does have more ends to weave in, but it’s still fun to make and goes quickly. You may be surprised to know, those raised blue lines are NOT post stitches. How do they work then? Read on and find out!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Red Eye Square
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Materials:
- Worsted Weight Yarn: 20 yds of color A, 10 yds of color B, and 5 yds of color C. Picture shows ivory as color A, blue as color B, and red as color C.
- Size H / 8 (5 mm) hook or size needed to achieve gauge
- Yarn or tapestry needle
Difficulty:
Easy – Worked in the round, mostly simple stitches and chains.
Size:
5″ square
Gauge:
13 dc x 7 rows = 4″ square. The actual square is small enough and works up quickly enough, that there’s no reason to do a separate gauge swatch. The finished square should be 5 inches.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- csdc = chainless starting double crochet (can substitute ch 3 if you prefer).
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
Note: On each round, after changing to a new color, fasten off the previous color. All even numbered (RS) rounds are worked with A.
Rnd 1 (WS): With C, make a magic cirlcle (or ch 4 and join to form a circle). In circle, ch 1, 8 hdc, pull magic circle closed, join with sl st to first hdc, changing to A. (8 hdc)
Rnd 2: With A, turn, csdc in first st, [2 dc in next st, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next st] 3 times, 2 dc in next st, (dc, ch 3) in same st as first st, join with sl st to first st, changing to B. (16 dc, 4 corner ch sps)
Rnd 3: With B, turn, sl st in ch sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, [sc in next st, ch 8, sc in next 2 sts, ch 8, sc in next st,** (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch sp] 4 times, ending at ** on last repeat, (sc, ch 2) in next ch sp, join with sl st to first st, changing to A. (24 sc, 8 ch-8 loops, 4 corner ch sps)
Rnd 4: With A, turn, sl st in corner ch sp, csdc in same sp, [(dc in next 2 sts, sk ch-8 loop) twice, dc in next 2 sts,** (dc, ch 3, dc) in next corner ch sp] 4 times, ending at ** on last repeat, (dc, ch 3) in next ch sp, join with sl st to first st, changing to C. Pull all ch 8 sps from rnd 3 to rs of work. (32 dc, 4 corner ch sps)
Rnd 5: With C, turn, sl st in first corner ch sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, [sc in each st to next corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner] 3 times, sc in each st to next corner, (sc, ch 2) in corner, join with sl st to first st, changing to A. [40 sc, 4 corner ch sps]
Rnd 6: With A, turn, sl st in corner ch sp, (csdc, dc) in same sp, *dc in next 3 sts, [pick up ch 8 loop directly below next st and twist it once, working through twisted loop, dc in next st], dc in next 2 sts, rep between [ ], dc in next 3 sts,** (2dc, ch 3, 2dc) in next corner ch sp, rep from * 3 more times, ending at ** on last repeat, (2 dc, ch 3) in next ch sp, join with sl st to first st, fasten off, weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy the pattern; big thanks to Shelley Johnson Jones for testing it for me!
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Free Pattern – Merry-go-round square
This is the third of four 5 inch squares I made as homework for a crochet retreat. It’s much easier than it looks, with alternating accent rows on top of a background of dc stitches. The accent rows are worked in the front loop, so they stand up on top of the background, creating an interesting texture. Since the color changes with every row, you can carry the colors as you go, leaving fewer ends to weave in when you’re done!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Merry-go-round Square
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Materials:
- Worsted Weight Yarn: 20 yds of color A & 15 yds of color B. Picture shows ivory as color A, and red as color B
- Size H / 8 (5 mm) hook or size needed to achieve gauge
- Yarn or tapestry needle
Difficulty:
Intermediate – Worked in the round. Working in front loop only.
Sizes:
5″ square
Gauge:
13 dc x 7 rows = 4″ square. The actual square is small enough and works up quickly enough, that there’s no reason to do a separate gauge swatch. The finished square should be 5 inches.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- csdc = chainless starting double crochet (can substitute ch 3 if you prefer).
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
Note: All odd numbered (RS) rounds are worked with A, and all even numbered (WS) rounds are worked with B.
Rnd 1 (RS): With A, make a magic cirlcle, or ch 4 and join to form a circle. In circle, ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc, pull magic circle closed, join with sl st to first st, changing to B. (12 dc)
Rnd 2: With B, ch 1, turn, working in front loops only, (sl st, ch 1) in each st around to last st, sl st in last st, join with sl st to first ch, changing to A.
Rnd 3: With A, turn, working in unused (front) loops from Rnd 1, (csdc, dc) in first st, 2 dc in each st around, join with sl st to first st, changing to B. (24 dc)
Rnd 4: Repeat rnd 2
Rnd 5: With A, turn, working in unused (front) loops from Rnd 3, csdc in first st, (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 11 times, 2dc in last st, join with sl st to first st, changing to B. (36 dc)
Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 2
Rnd 7: With A, ch 4 (counts as tr), turn, working in unused (front) loops from Rnd 5, (tr, ch 2, 2tr) in same st, *dc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next st,** (2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in next st, repeat from * 3 more times, ending at ** on last repeat, join with sl st to first st, changing to B. (48 sts and 4 ch sps)
Rnd 8: With B, ch1, turn, working in front loops only, *(sl st, ch 1) in each st to ch sp, sl st in next 2 chs, ch 1, repeat from * 3 more times, (sl st, ch 1) in next st, sl st in last st, join with sl st to first st, changing to A. Fasten off B.
Rnd 9: With A, ch 1, turn, *working in unused (front) loops from Rnd 7, sc in each st to next corner sp, (2sc, ch 2, 2sc) in ch sp (covering the sl sts from the previous rnd), repeat from * 3 more times, working in unused loops from rnd 7, sc in each st to end, join with sl st to first st, fasten off. (64 sts and 4 ch sps)
I hope you enjoy the pattern; big thanks to Shelley Johnson Jones for testing it for me!
If you would like to receive notifications of new posts and patterns as they become available, please follow this blog. You can follow by e-mail (look at the sidebar on the right for the follow by email option), or via RSS feed, or via your WordPress.com reader: Follow Stitches ‘N’ Scraps on WordPress.com
Free Pattern – Crossed Cables Square
This is one of four 5 inch squares I made as homework for a crochet retreat. It’s a relatively easy pattern and works up quickly. The cables give it a bit of texture, with one crossed row in the middle just for fun.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Crossed Cables Square
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Materials:
- Worsted Weight Yarn: 25 – 35 yds
- Size H / 8 (5 mm) hook or size needed to achieve gauge
- Yarn or tapestry needle
Difficulty:
Intermediate – Front post stitches, with crossed stitches on one row.
Sizes:
5″ square
Gauge:
13 hdc x 12 rows = 4″ square. The actual square is small enough and works up quickly enough, that there’s no reason to do a separate gauge swatch. The finished square should be 5 inches.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- fhdc = foundation half double crochet
- fpdc = front post double crochet
- fptr = front post treble
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
Row 1 [WS]: Work 15 fhdc, OR ch 16, turn, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (15 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, (fpdc around next st, hdc in next st) 7 times.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st (fpdc around the fpdc directly below the next st, hdc in next st) 7 times.
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across.
Rows 6-7: Repeat rows 4-5.
Row 8: Ch 1, hdc in first st, fptr around third post stitch from row 6, hdc in next st, fptr around 1st post from row 6, hdc in next st, fptr around 2nd post from row 6, hdc in next st, fptr around 4th (middle) post from row 6, hdc in next st, fptr around 6th post from row 6, hdc in next st, fptr around last post from row 6, hdc in next st, fptr around 5th post from row 6, hdc in last st.
Rows 9-12: Repeat rows 3-4 twice
Row 13: Repeat row 3
Rnd 14 (edging): Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to last st, (sc, ch 1, sc) in last st, working in sides of rows, work 13 sts evenly spaced to corner, working in bottom of row 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in first st, sc across to last st, (sc, ch 1, sc) in last st, working in sides of rows, work 13 sts evenly spaced to corner, (sc, ch 1, sc) in same st as starting, join with sl st to first st, fasten off. Weave in ends.
I hope you enjoy the pattern!
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Free Pattern – Li’l Pumpkin Hat
A couple of days ago, I shared with you my Puffy Pinwheel Hat pattern. One Friday evening, I was working on that pattern at my LYS, and my friend Annie said “that looks like a pumpkin!” Well of course she was right (she usually is), and of course I had to make a pumpkin version. How could I not?
Please note this pattern is for the stem, leaves, and vines only. To make the complete hat, you will need the free Puffy Pinwheel Hat pattern as well.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Li’l Pumpkin Hat
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Materials:
- Anne Geddes Baby Yarn:
- 100-150 yds Tangerine (orange – for hat)
- 15-20 yds Teddy (brown)
- 15-20 yds Grass (green)
- Size G / 6 (4.25 mm) hook or size needed to achieve gauge
- Yarn or tapestry needle
- 2 locking stitch markers
Difficulty:
Intermediate – Vine, leaves, and stem are intermediate difficulty. The hat itself though involves more techniques and is labeled as “Experienced”.
Sizes:
The stem, leaves, and vines are the same for all 3 sizes of the hat.
Gauge:
15 sc x 18 rows = 4″ square (same gauge as for hat)
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- fphdc = front post half double crochet
- bphdc = back post half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources:
Hat:
- Make Puffy Pinwheel Hat pattern, using only orange for all parts except the top button (ignore all color changes).
- Make button in brown for the two smaller sizes. For the larger (toddler) size, make the first two rounds of the button in brown, then switch to orange for the third round.
- Assemble as normal. For a slightly different look, you can try sewing the sections together with brown instead of with orange. This will create a thin brown line between each section.
Stem:
Rnd 1 [RS]: With brown, work 8 hdc inside a magic circle and pull circle closed. Join with sl st to first st. OR Ch 2, work 8 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st to first st. [8 hdc]
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in each st, join with sl st to first st. [16 hdc]
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, bphdc in each st around, join with sl st to first st.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, do NOT turn, fphdc in next 2 sts, bphdc in next st, fphdc in next st, bphdc in next st, fphdc in next 2 sts, bphdc in next st, fphdc in next 2 sts, bphdc in next st, fphdc in next 3 sts, bphdc in last st, join with sl st to first st.
Note: The somewhat random front and back post stitches are just there to give the stem texture – it is not important to get them all in the right place. If you were to write an “f” for each front post stitch and a “b” for each back post stitch, rnd 4 would read: f, f, b, f, b, f, f, f, b, f, f, b, f, f, f, b.
Rnd 5: Ch 1, do NOT turn, work a fphdc in each front post stitch and a bphdc in each back post stitch around, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Note: If you want a longer stem, you can repeat Rnd 5 to desired length before fastening off.
Leaves:
Make 3
Row 1 [WS]: With green, work 8 hdc inside a magic circle and pull circle closed. OR Ch 2, work 8 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Do NOT join. [8 hdc]
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 3 dc in first st, (dc, sl st, dc) in next st, (2 dc, sl st) in next st, (sc, hdc, dc) in next st, (dc, hdc, sc) in next st, (sl st, 2 dc) in next st, (dc, sl st, dc) in next st, (3 dc, sl st) in last st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Vines:
Make 2
Row 1: With green, ch 31. Work 2 sc in each stitch across, allowing work to curl as you go. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Finishing:
- Stuff stem lightly and sew into place on top of button.
- Sew vines and leaves into place as desired.
- Sew in any remaining ends.
I hope you enjoy the pattern! Thank you, Annie, for the idea! A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store for a $1 fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online. The pdf includes both the original Puffy Pinwheel Hat, and this pumpkin variation.
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Free Pattern – Puffy Pinwheel Hat
This puffy, slouchy hat matches my Striped Booties and Dreaming of Pinwheels blanket. It’s made with the same Anne Geddes Baby yarn by Red Heart, which is machine washable and soft, with just enough stretchiness. This pattern has instructions for sizes 0-6 months, 6-12 months, and toddler (1-3 years).
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Puffy Pinwheel Hat
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Materials:
- Anne Geddes Baby Yarn:
- 40-50 yds Bumble (A)
- 10-15 yds Grass (B)
- 60-100 yds Bluebell (C)
- Size G / 6 (4.25 mm) hook or size needed to achieve gauge
- Yarn or tapestry needle
- 2 locking stitch markers
Difficulty:
Experienced – Made in several pieces with decreases, seaming, working into the back loop only, working in the round, and front post/back post stitches. I’m calling it experienced because of the number of techniques used, but it could be a great learning project for an intermediate level crocheter.
Sizes:
Pattern is written for 0-6 months with changes for 6-12 months and toddler in ( ). Actual hat circumference: 13″ (15″, 17″). Note these are the hat sizes, not the head size – to fit properly, the hat should be 1-2″ smaller around than the head.
Gauge:
15 sc x 18 rows = 4″ square. Each of the 8 hat sections should measure about 4.5 x 1.75″ (5.5″ x 2″, 6.5″ x 2.25″)
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- fphdc = front post half double crochet
- bphdc = back post half double crochet
- hdc2tog = half double crochet two stitches together
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Notes:
- If you leave a long tail on each of the blue (color C) hat sections, you can use that tail to sew the sections together.
- Progress / tutorial pictures show the toddler size hat. Click any image for a larger view.
Recommended Resources:
- Foundation Crochet Stitches by Jessie at Home
- The Magic Circle by Moogly
- Alternative hdc2tog
- Whipstitch seam through wrong side loops only
- Front & Back Post Crochet by Jessie at Home
Sections:
Make 8 total – 4 with A, and 4 with C
Row 1 [RS]: Work 6 (7, 8) fhdc OR ch 7 (8, 9), hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. [6 (7, 8) sts]
Rows 2 – 9 (10, 11): Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. Mark first and last stitch of row 9 (10, 11) for edging
Row 10 (11, 12): Ch 1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog [4 (5,6) sts]
Row 11 (12, 13): Repeat Row 2
Row 12 (13, 14): Repeat Row 10 (11, 12) [ 2 (3, 4) sts]
Row 13 (14, 15): Repeat Row 2
0-6 months only:
Row 14: Ch 1, turn, hdc2tog
6-12 months only:
Row 15: Ch 1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc in last st
Row 16: Ch 1, turn, hdc2tog
Toddler only:
Row 16: Ch 1, turn, hdc2tog twice
Row 17: Repeat Row 2
Row 18: Ch 1, turn, hdc2tog
Edging (all sizes):
- Ch 1, turn, working in sides of rows, work 8 (9, 10) sc evenly spaced to first marker.
- Ch 1, work 11 (12, 13) sc evenly spaced to bottom corner.
- Working in bottom of Row 1, [sc, ch 1, sc] in corner st, sc in next 4 (5, 6) sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in next corner st.
- Working in sides of rows, work 11 (12, 13) sc evenly spaced to next marker.
- Ch 1, work 8 (9, 10) sc evenly spaced to top, join with sl st to first st.
- Remove markers, fasten off. [46 (51, 56) sc and 4 ch sps]
Joining (all sizes):
- Hold 1 section of each color with right sides together as shown below. Line up chain spaces on both pieces.
- With C, whipstitch sections together along one side, through wrong side loops only, being sure to whipstitch through the corner ch sp on the bottom of the sections
- Join remaining sections in the same manner, alternating colors, until all 8 sections are joined.
- Join free edges of first section and last section together in the same manner. Ignore the hole at the top for now.
Ribbing:
Rnd 1 (WS): With WS of hat facing you and working into the bottom edge of the hat, join C with sl st in the 2nd st of any section, *hdc in next 4 (5, 6) sts, hdc2tog in next st and ch sp, hdc2tog in next ch sp and next st, repeat from * 7 times more, join with sl st to first st, changing to B. [48 (56, 64)] sts
Rnd 2: With B, ch 1, turn, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first st, changing to C.
Rnd 3: With C, ch 1, turn, hdc in front loop only of each st around, join with sl st to first st.
Rnd 4: Ch 1 turn, [fphdc around next st, bphdc around next st] around, join with sl st to first st.
Rnds 5-7 (7, 8): Ch 1, do NOT turn, [fphdc around next st, bphdc around next st] around, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off.
Top “Button”:
Rnd 1 [WS]: With B, work 8 hdc inside a magic circle and pull circle closed. Join with sl st to first st. OR Ch 2, work 8 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st to first st. [8 hdc]
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in each st, join with sl st to first st. [16 hdc]
0-6 months & 6-12 months only:
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Toddler only:
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st), fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. [24 hdc]
Finishing:
- Sew top “button” in place over the hole at the top of the hat. I like to use a running stitch or back stitch, sewing just under the tops of the crochet stitches along the outer edge of the button, so the seam is not noticeable.
- Weave in all ends
I hope you enjoy the pattern! Thank you to Red Heart, for supplying the lovely yarn. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store for a $1 fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online. The pdf download also includes the pattern for the Li’l Pumpkin variation of this hat!
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