Free Crochet Patterns
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Free Pattern – Gold Coast Lapghan
Throw it over a couch or chair for the perfect designer accent, or snuggle up under it for some cozy family time. However you use it, the Gold Coast Lapghan is sure to be a favorite! The sunny surface is covered in a delicate, lacy diamond pattern, and accented by a classic shell border in bold, deep purple.
The Gold Coast Lapghan was designed with Cascade 220 yarn, which I received free from Cascade. It’s a soft and light, worsted weight, 100% wool yarn. It comes in a wide array of colors, so it’s easy to find just the right shade!
Update 4/20/18: I’ve added a video tutorial to get you started! Scroll down to see the video. The tutorial covers is based on some questions / difficulties expressed by readers. It covers how to read the repeats in the pattern text, and how to work from the chart.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains sponsored content and affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Gold Coast Lapghan
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Materials:
- Cascade 220, worsted weight, 100% wool yarn – 220 yds/ 100g per skein.
- 1540 yds #7827 Goldenrod (7 skeins) – yellow
- 165 yds #8418 Eggplant (1 skein) – purple
- Size H / 5 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Skill Level:
Easy- Mostly basic stitches. Shell and picot border.
Size:
Approximately 36 inches x 49 inches
Gauge:
15 dc x 8.5 rows = 4″
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- ch sp = chain space
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
(scroll down for charts & video)
Lapghan:
Note: Ch 3 at the start of a row counts as a dc throughout.
With yellow, ch 135 (foundation)
Row 1 (WS): Dc in 4th ch from hook, [dc in next 8 chs, ch 1, sk next ch, dc in next 7 chs] 8 times, dc in last 3 chs. (125 dc, 8 ch sps)
Row 2: Ch 3, turn, [dc in next 7 sts, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st, dc in next ch sp, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next 4 sts] 8 times, dc in last 4 sts. (117 dc, 16 ch sps)
Row 3: Ch 3, turn, [dc in next 5 sts, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st, dc in next ch sp, dc in next 3 sts, dc in next ch sp, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next 2 sts] 8 times, dc in last 4 sts. (117 dc, 16 ch sps)
Row 4: Ch 3, turn, [dc in next 3 sts, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st, dc in next ch sp, dc in next 7 sts, dc in next ch sp, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st] 8 times, dc in last 4 sts. (117 dc, 16 ch sps)
Row 5: Ch 3, turn, [dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st, dc in next ch sp, dc in next 11 sts, dc in next ch sp] 8 times, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, dc in last 2 sts. (125 dc, 9 ch sps)
Row 6: Ch 3, turn, [dc in next st, dc in next ch sp, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next 11 sts, ch 1, sk next st] 8 times, dc in next st, dc in next ch sp, dc in last 2 sts. (117 dc, 16 ch sps)
Row 7: Ch 3, turn, [dc in next 3 sts, dc in next ch sp, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next 7 sts, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st, dc in next ch sp] 8 times, dc in last 4 sts. (117 dc, 16 ch sps)
Row 8: Ch 3, turn, [dc in next 5 sts, dc in next ch sp, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next 3 sts, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st, dc in next ch sp, dc in next 2 sts] 8 times, dc in last 4 sts. (117 dc, 16 ch sps)
Row 9: Ch 3, turn, [dc in next 7 sts, dc in next ch sp, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st, dc in next ch sp, dc in next 4 sts] 8 times, dc in last 4 sts. (125 dc, 8 ch sps)
Rows 10-101: Repeat rows 2-9 eleven more times, then repeat rows 2-5 once more. Do not fasten off.
Edging:
Rnd 1 (RS):
- Ch 1, turn, sc in each st and in each ch sp across (133 sc),
- Ch 1, working in sides of rows, work 177 sc evenly spaced across side edge (178 sc),
- Ch 1, working in bottom of foundation chain, sc in each ch across (133 sc),
- Ch 1, working in sides of rows, work 177 sc evenly spaced across side edge, ch 1, join with sl st to first st of round, changing to purple. Fasten off yellow.
Rnd 2 (RS): Ch 1, do not turn, Sc in first st, *[sk next 2 sts, (3 dc, ch 3, sl st in top of the last dc you just made, 3 dc) in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st] 22 times, 3 sc in next ch sp, sc in each st across to next ch sp, 3 sc in next ch sp, ** sc in next st, repeat from * to **, join with sl st to first st, fasten off.
Weave in all ends.
Charts:
Video Tutorial:
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Norwood Park
Norwood Park combines color blocking with a unique, asymmetrical, “V” shape. Lightweight yarn and tapered ends make it light enough for spring weather, even when wrapped around. The beginner friendly pattern uses an unconventional decrease, which is not only easier to do, but also helps to avoid extra bulk along the edges.
Sample is shown in two different handspun yarns.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Norwood Park
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Materials:
- DK weight yarn
- 150 yds color A
- 200 yds color B
- Size H / 5mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Skill Level:
Easy – Basic stitches, repetitive stitch pattern, simple shaping.
Size:
Approximately 9 inches wide at widest point, and 75 inches long from tip to tip.
Gauge:
13 dc x 7 rows = 4″. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Instructions:
Note: Ch 3 OR ch 2 at beginning of a row counts as a dc throughout.
Section 1 (Increasing):
With A, ch 5.
Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook and in next 2 chs (3 dc)
Row 2: Ch 3, dc in same st and in each st across. (4 dc)
Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next st and in each st across. (4 dc)
Rows 4-44: Repeat last 2 rows 20 times, then repeat row 2 once more. (25 dc)
Section 2 (Shifting down):
Row 45: Ch 2, dc in next 24 sts. (25 dc)
Row 46: Ch 3, dc in same st and next 23 sts, dc in the space between last 2 sts. (25 dc)
Rows 47-69: Repeat last 2 rows 11 more times, then repeat row 45 once more.
Row 70: Ch 2, dc in same st and next 23 sts, dc in the space between last 2 sts, changing to color B. (25 dc)
Section 3 (Shifting up):
Row 71: With color B, ch 3, dc in same st and next 23 sts, dc in the space between last 2 sts. (25 dc)
Row 72: Ch 2, dc in next 24 sts. (25 dc)
Rows 73-106: Repeat last 2 rows 17 more times.
Section 4 (Decreasing):
Row 107: Ch 3, dc in next st and in each st across to last 2 sts, dc in the space between last 2 sts. (24 dc)
Row 108: Ch 2, dc in next st and in each st across. (24 dc)
Rows 109-149: Repeat last 2 rows 20 more times, then repeat row 107 once more. (3 sts)
Row 150: Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts. Fasten off. (3 dc)
Edging:
- With RS facing, join A with sl st at middle top of scarf, where colors change. (See diagram above)
- Working in sides of color A rows across top of scarf, work 105 sc evenly spaced to tip (3 sc for every 2 rows).
- Sc in each st on bottom of row 1 (3 sc)
- Working in sides of color A rows across bottom of scarf, work 140 sc to bottom point (2 sc per row). Ch 3, sl st in last sc worked (picot made), changing to B.
- Working in sides of color B rows across bottom of scarf, work 160 sc to tip (2 sc per row)
- Sc in each st on row 150 (3 sc)
- Working in sides of color B rows across top of scarf, work 120 sc evenly spaced to start of edging rnd (3 sc for every 2 rows). Join with sl st, fasten off.
Finishing:
Weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Edgewater
Take in a lakefront stroll with the Edgewater bag. This roomy, felted purse is equally at home on the beach, at the office, or just about anywhere else. The simple stitches and felted texture are a great way to highlight your favorite color-changing yarn. Felting also makes a strong, dense fabric, so that no lining is necessary.
Sample is shown in a handspun yarn. Watch the transition from fiber to finished object in this video!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Edgewater
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Materials:
- 300 yds worsted weight, feltable (wool) yarn.
- Size H / 5mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
- Stitch marker
- 1 – 1.5 inch button
- Two, 1 inch D rings
(Photos show circular key rings because it’s what I had handy. Circular rings are ok, but D rings are better). - Purse strap that can clip onto the D rings
Skill Level:
Easy- Basic stitches, worked in the round, with minimal shaping.
Size:
Approximately 11 inches x 13 inches before felting, and 9.5 inches x 11 inches after felting. Finished measurements may vary depending on fiber used and how aggressively you felt it.
Gauge:
14 dc x 12 rows = 4″ before felting. Exact gauge is not critical. I recommend felting your swatch so you can see how much it will shrink when felted, and adjust your gauge accordingly if needed. My swatch shrunk about 15% in both height and width. If yours shrinks more, you may want to start with a looser gauge. If it shrinks less, you may want to start with a tighter gauge.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- ch = chain
- hdc = half double crochet
- hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 stitches together.
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- ch sp = chain space
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
Bag:
Ch 41
Rnd 1 (WS): hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, rotate to work across bottom of ch, hdc in bottom of each ch across, ch 1, join with sl st to first st. (80 hdc)
Rnds 2-3: Turn, sl st in ch sp, ch 1, hdc in ch sp, hdc in each st around to next ch sp, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch sp, hdc in each st around to beginning ch sp, hdc in beginning ch sp, ch 1, join with sl st to first st. (88 hdc)
Rnd 4 (RS): Turn, sl st in ch sp, ch 1, hdc in ch sp, hdc in each st across to next ch sp, hdc in ch sp, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first st. (90 hdc).
Mark the first st of Rnd 4 and do not move that marker with each round.
Rnd 5 (RS): Do not turn, ch 1, hdc in each st around, do not join.
Continue working hdc in each st around, in continuous rounds (without joining or turning), until work measures approximately 11 inches tall. This should be about 29 more rounds. Continue until your last hdc lines up directly above the marker from Rnd 4, then sc in next st, sl st in next st. Do not fasten off.
Flap:
Row 1 (WS): Ch 2, turn, sk sl st, hdc2tog, hdc in next 43 sts, hdc2tog, leave remaining sts unworked. (45 sts)
Rows 2-5: Ch 2, turn, sk first st, hdc in each st across. (41 sts)
Lay work flat and check that flap is lining up centered on the bag. If it is not, you may have to rip back and adjust where you ended the last rnd of the bag. Once you are sure everything is lined up, you can remove the marker from rnd 4 of the bag.
Rows 6-21: Ch 2, turn, sk first st, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog (9 sts)
Row 22: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, hdc in next 2 sts, ch 3 (buttonhole), sk next 3 sts, hdc in next st, hdc2tog. (4 sts)
Row 23: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 3 chs, hdc dec. (5 sts)
Row 24: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, hdc in next 2 sts, hdc dec, fasten off. (3 sts)
Tab (make 2):
Note: Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a double crochet
Ch 7
Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across. (5 sts)
Rows 2-5: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 4 sts, fasten off.
Finishing:
Weave in all ends.
Fold one tab in half around flat edge of a D ring. Sew folded tab securely into place at side edge of bag, near the top. Sew back and forth a few times to create a very strong seam. Repeat for 2nd tab.
Note: Picture shows circular rings, which are OK, but D rings are better.
Felt / full your bag: Wash in very hot water with soap and plenty of agitation, then rinse in cold water. Repeat until desired level of felting is achieved. Lay flat to dry.
Sew button into place on front of bag so that it lines up with button hole.
Attach purse strap to D rings.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. Big thanks to MixedKreations for tech editing it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches ‘N’ Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches ‘N’ Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – New Eastside
With its urban style and a casual fit, the comfy, New Eastside cardigan may become your go-to jacket for spring and fall! The simple construction is almost seamless, with limited shaping, patch pockets, and an optional zipper.
New Eastside was designed with Lion Brand Scarfie yarn, which I received free from Lion Brand. It’s a bulky, wool blend yarn that works up quickly for a warm, soft, and fluffy fabric. The self-striping yarn, combined with the construction of the sweater creates the unique combination of stripes and color blocking.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains sponsored content and affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
New Eastside
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Materials:
- 4 skeins Lion Brand Scarfie (925-1150 yds total) – shown in #218 Teal / Silver.
Note: You may be able to make the small size with just 3 skeins, but it will be very close. - Size K / 6.5 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
- Locking stitch markers
- 20 inch, separating zipper (optional)
- Sewing pins, thread, and needle for zipper (optional)
Skill Level:
Easy- Basic stitches with very little shaping. Zipper is optional.
Size:
Instructions shown for size S, with changes for M, L, and XL in [ ].
Gauge:
11 dc x 6.5 rows = 4″. Matching gauge is important for a good fit. For best results, wash gauge swatch and hang with a little weight attached until dry. For a small swatch, I use one or two bag clips or clothespins as weights.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- dc2tog = double crochet 2 stitches together.
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources:
- Learn to Crochet Series
- Whip Stitch Seaming on Moogly
- Zippers in Knits on Purl Soho (works for crochet too!)
Instructions:
Bottom:
Note: Ch 3 at at the beginning of a row or round counts as a dc throughout. The ch 4 at the beginning of row 1 is a foundation chain plus a dc.
Row 1 (RS [WS, RS, RS]): Ch 106 [118, 130, 140], dc in 4th ch from hook and each ch across. (104 [116, 128, 138] dc)
Rows 2-22 [23, 22, 22]: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across.
Right front:
Row 23 [24, 23, 23] (RS): Ch 3, turn, dc in next 23 [26, 29, 32] sts, dc2tog, leaving remaining sts unworked. Sk first 2 unworked sts, place a marker in 3rd unworked st. (24 [27, 30, 33] sts)
Rows 24-32 [25-33, 24-32, 24-33]: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across.
Shape neckline:
Sizes S & M only:
Row 33 [34] (RS): Turn, sl st in first 7 [8] sts, ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in each remaining st across. (17 [19] sts)
Row 34 [35]: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across to last 2 sts, dc2tog. (16 [18] sts).
Row 35 [36]: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, sk first st, dc in next st and in each remaining st across. (15 [17] sts)
Row 36 [37]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st across.
Row 37 [38] (RS): Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across to last 3 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in last st. Fasten off.
Size L only:
Row 33 (RS): Turn, sl st in first 8 sts, ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in each remaining st across. (22 sts)
Rows 34-35: Work as for rows 34-35 of size S. (20 sts on row 35)
Rows 36-37: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st across.
Row 38 (WS): Turn, sl st in first st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in each remaining st across. Fasten off.
Size XL only:
Row 34 (WS): Ch 3, turn, dc in next 22 sts, dc2tog, leaving last 8 sts unworked. (24 sts)
Row 35: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, sk first st, dc in next st and in each remaining st across. (23 sts)
Row 36: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across to last 2 sts, dc2tog. (22 sts).
Rows 37-38: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across.
Row 39 (RS): Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across to last 3 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in last st. Fasten off.
Back:
With RS facing, join yarn in marked stitch from row 23 [23, 22, 22] of body. This should be the third unworked stitch from that row. Remove marker.
Row 24 [24, 23, 23] (RS): Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), turn, sk first st, dc in next 47 [53, 59, 64] sts, dc2tog, leaving remaining sts unworked. Sk first 2 unworked sts, place a marker in 3rd unworked st. (48 [54, 60, 65] sts)
Rows 25-35 [25-36, 24-35, 24-36]: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across.
First shoulder:
Row 36 [37, 36, 37]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 14 [16, 20, 22] sts, dc2tog, leaving remaining sts unworked. (16 [18, 22, 24] sts)
Sizes S & M only:
Row 37 [38]: Ch 2 (does not count as a st, turn, sk first st, dc in next 12 [14] sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in last st. (14 [16] sts)
Adjustment row: Turn, sk first st st, sl st in next st and in each st across – this should bring the working yarn to the top of the neckline. Do not fasten off.
Sizes L & XL only:
Row 37 [38]: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, sk first st, dc in each remaining st across. (21 [23] sts)
Row 38 [39]: Turn, sl st in first st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in each st across to last 2 sts, dc2tog. Do not fasten off. (19 [21] sts)
Second shoulder:
Working in sides of rows from first shoulder, sl st in the side of each row. Your working yarn should now be at the unworked stitches from row 35 [36, 35, 36]
Row 36 [37, 36, 37]: Sl st in first 15 [17, 15, 16] unworked sts from row 35 [36, 35, 36]. Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in next st and in each st across. (16 [18, 22, 24] sts)
Sizes S & M only:
Row 37 [38]: Turn, sl st in first st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in each st across to last 2 sts, dc2tog. Fasten off. (14 [16] sts)
Sizes L & XL only:
Row 37 [38]: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across to last 2 sts, dc2tog. (21 [23] sts)
Row 38 [39]: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, sk first st, dc in next 17 [19] sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in last st. Fasten off. (19 [21] sts)
Left front:
With RS facing, join yarn in marked stitch from row 23 [23, 22, 22] of body. This should be the third unworked stitch from that row. Remove marker.
Row 23 [24, 23, 23] (RS): Ch 2 (does not count as a st), sk first st, dc in each st across. (24 [27, 30, 33] sts)
Rows 24-32 [25-33, 24-32, 24-33]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st across.
Shape Neckline:
Sizes S & M only:
Row 33 [34] (RS): Ch 3, turn, dc in next 15 [17] sts, dc2tog, leaving last 6 [7] sts unworked. (17 [19] sts)
Row 34 [35]: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, sk first st, dc in next st and in each remaining st across. (16 [18] sts)
Row 35 [36]: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across to last 2 sts, dc2tog. (15 [17] sts).
Row 36 [37]: Ch 3, turn, dc next st and in each st across.
Row 37 [38] (RS): Turn, sl st in first st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in each remaining st across. Fasten off. (14 [16] sts)
Size L only:
Row 33 (RS): Ch 3, turn, dc in next 20 sts, dc2tog, leaving last 7 sts unworked. (23 sts)
Rows 34-35: Work as for rows 34-35 of size S. (20 sts on row 35)
Rows 36-37: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across.
Row 38 (WS): Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across to last 3 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in last st. Fasten off. (19 sts)
Size XL only:
Row 34 (WS): Turn, sl st in first 9 sts, ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in next st and in each remaining st across. (24 sts)
Row 35: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across to last 2 sts, dc2tog. (23 sts).
Row 36: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, sk first st, dc in next st and in each remaining st across. (22 sts)
Rows 37-38: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across.
Row 39 (RS): Turn, sl st in first st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in each remaining st across. Fasten off. (21 sts)
Sleeves:
With right sides together, sew fronts to back at shoulder seams.
Rnd 1: With WS [WS, RS, RS] facing, join yarn with sc in the 2nd of the 2 skipped underarm stitches. Working in sides of rows, work 48 [50, 52, 54] dc evenly spaced around armhole opening, sc in the other skipped underarm st, join with sl st to first sc. (50 [52, 54, 56] sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, sk first st, dc in each st around to last 2 sts, dc2tog. (48, [50, 52, 54] sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st around, join with sl st.
Rnds 4-27 [27, 29, 29]: Repeat rnds 2 – 3 twelve [twelve, thirteen, thirteen] times (24 [26, 26, 28] sts on last rnd)
Sizes S & M only – Rnd 28: Repeat rnd 3 once more.
Fasten off. Repeat sleeve instructions for 2nd sleeve.
Pockets (make 2):
Ch 17 [18, 19, 20]
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (16 [17, 18, 19] sts)
Rows 2-18 [20, 20, 22]: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Fasten off, leaving a 30″ tail for sewing.
Edging:
With right side facing, join yarn at bottom corner of left front.
Rnd 1 (RS):
Ch 1, sc in each st across bottom. (104 [116, 128, 138] sts)
Ch 1, working in sides of rows, work 50 [52, 50, 52] sc evenly spaced along right front edge, up to neckline. (50 [52, 50, 52] sts)
Ch 1, working along neckline, work 16 [17, 18, 19] sc evenly spaced to shoulder seam, 30 [32, 32, 34] sc evenly spaced around back of neck to opposite shoulder, 16 [17, 18, 19] sc evenly spaced to left front edge. (62 [66, 68, 72] sts)
Ch 1, working in sides of rows, work 50 [52, 50, 52] sc evenly spaced along left front edge, to hem. Ch 1, join with sl st to first sc of round. (50 [52, 50, 52] sts)
Rnd 2: Turn, sl st in first ch sp, ch 1, sc in same ch sp, *sc in each sc across to next ch sp, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch sp, repeat from * twice more, sc in each sc across to starting ch sp, sc in starting ch sp, ch 1, join with sl st to first sc. (274 [294, 304, 322] sts)
Rnd 3: Turn, sl st in first ch sp, ch 1, sc in same ch sp, (sc in each sc across to next ch sp, 3 sc in ch sp) 3 times, sc in each sc across to starting ch sp, 2 sc in starting ch sp, join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.
Finishing:
(Click any of the images to view larger – opens in new window or tab)
Wash and block sweater and pockets. Doing this before sewing on the pockets and zipper will help you get straighter seams and cleaner edges.
Lay sweater flat and pin pockets into place using safety pins or stitch markers. Sew pockets onto front of sweater.
Weave in all ends.
Zipper (optional):
With zipper closed, pin into place on one side of sweater. Placing a magazine or piece of cardboard between the layers will help ensure you don’t pin through multiple layers. Be sure sweater does not get caught in or overlap zipper teeth. The top of the zipper should line up with top of sweater, and it should lay flat with no puckers. If the zipper is a little bit short and doesn’t quite reach to the bottom of the sweater, that’s ok, but it should not extend past the bottom of the sweater. The zipper I used in these images was almost too long and I have recommended a slightly shorter zipper in the pattern.
Sew along front edge using a backstitch. Fold down the excess fabric at top of zipper and sew through both layers.
With zipper closed, pin into place on the opposite side of sweater and sew along edge in the same way. If it helps for sewing, it’s ok to open the zipper once it is pinned securely in place.
Open zipper and turn to wrong side. Whipstitch outer edge of zipper to inside of sweater.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. Big thanks to namihn for editing / reviewing it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Easy Crochet Pillow Pattern – Tryst
Fall in love with the delicate, lacy texture of the Tryst crochet pillow pattern! Tiny triangles inside of triangles give the feel of lace, but without the holes, while the geometric design compliments almost any decor. With overlapping layers at the back, you can easily remove the cover for cleaning too!
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Cascade Cherub Aran
The sample is shown in Cascade Yarns Cherub Aran, which I received free in a goody bag at a conference. It’s a machine washable blend of nylon and acrylic. This blend makes it strong, but also soft and shiny. The color I used is #11 Key Lime.
Pillow Forms
Since this is a removable cover, I use it on all my 14 inch pillow forms interchangeably. For the images, I think it was on my Mountain Mist pillow form which is puffier and not as perfectly square as some of the others I have. You can see all my favorite pillow forms and stuffings on my Amazon storefront!
Tryst Crochet Pillow Pattern
Materials
- Yarn: 450 yds worsted weight yarn.
- Hook: Size H / 5.0 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Notions:
- 4 locking stitch markers
- Yarn needle
- 14 inch, square pillow form
Project Level
Intermediate: Working into skipped stitches from previous row. Fair amount of counting / concentration needed for pattern section.
Size
14 inch square.
Gauge
14 dc x 9 rows = 4 inches.
Abbreviations
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
mod-sc = modified sc (see Special Stitch)
st(s) = stitch(es)
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
Special Stitch:
Modified Single Crochet (mod-sc)
Insert hook under next ch-5 loop (from 2 rows below), then complete single crochet in indicated stitch as normal. You are working the single crochet through both the loop and the stitch together, to anchor the loop into place. This stitch counts as an sc in the stitch counts listed at the end of the rows.
Instructions:
Scroll down for chart
Chain 51.
Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a dc throughout
Bottom half of back:
Row 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each st across. (49 dc)
Rows 2-20: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st across.
Front:
Row 21 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in next st) across. (13 sc, 12 ch-5 loops)
When working a dc into a skipped st below a ch-5 loop, always hold the loop out of the way at the back (RS) of your work. The dc stitches should be worked in front of the loop.
Row 22: Ch 1, turn, sc in first sc, (dc in 3 skipped sts below next ch-5 loop, sc in next sc) across. (13 sc, 36 dc)
Row 23: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *sc in next st, (mod-sc in next st, ch 5, sk next 3 sts) twice, mod-sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, Repeat from * across. (25 sc, 8 ch-5 loops)
Row 24: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *sc in next 2 st, (dc in 3 skipped sts below next ch-5 loop, sc in next st) twice, sc in next 2 sts, repeat from * across. (25 sc, 24 dc)
Row 25: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *sc in next 3 sts, mod-sc in next st, ch 5, sk next 3 sts, mod-sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, repeat from * across. (37 sc, 4 ch-5 loops)
Row 26: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *sc in next 4 sts, dc in 3 skipped sts below next ch-5 loop, sc in next 5 sts, repeat from * across. (37 sc, 12 dc)
Row 27: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, *ch 5, sk next 3 sts, mod-sc in next st, (ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in next st) twice, repeat from * twice more, ch 5, sk next 3 sts, mod-sc in next st, ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in last 3 sts. (16 sc, 11 ch-5 loops)
Row 28: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, (dc in 3 skipped sts below next ch-5 loop, sc in next st) across to last 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts. (16 sc, 33 dc)
Row 29: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, ch 5, sk next 3 sts, mod-sc in next st, *sc in next 3 sts, (mod sc in next st, ch 5, sk next 3 sts) twice, mod-sc in next st, repeat from * twice more, sc in next 3 sts, mod sc in next st, ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in last st. (25 sc, 8 ch-5 loops)
Row 30: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (dc in 3 skipped sts below next ch-5 loop, sc in next 5 sts, dc in 3 skipped sts below next ch-5 loop, sc in next st) four times. (25 sc, 24 dc)
Row 31: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 sts, (mod-sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts, mod sc in next st, ch 5, sk next 3 sts) three times, mod-sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts, mod-sc in next st, sc in last 2 sts. (40 sc, 3 ch-5 loops)
Row 32: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 11 sts, (dc in 3 skipped sts below next ch-5 loop, sc in next 9 sts) 3 times, sc in last 2 sts. (40 sc, 9 dc)
Row 33: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *(ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in next st) twice, ch 5, sk next 3 sts, mod-sc in next st, Repeat from * twice more, (ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in next st) three times. (13 sc, 12 ch-5 loops)
Row 34: Repeat Row 22.
Rows 35-82: Repeat rows 23-34 four more times.
Row 83 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (sc in next st, mod sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) across.
Top half of back:
Rows 84-104: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across. Do not fasten off.
Edging (RS):
- Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (49 sc)
- Ch 1, working in sides of rows, work 32 sc evenly spaced across top half of back (rows 104-84), place marker in last st worked. Work 50 sc evenly spaced across front (rows 83-21). Place marker in the next stitch you make. Work 30 sc evenly spaced across bottom half of back (rows 20-1). (109 sc)
- Ch 1, working across bottom of foundation chain, sc in each st across. (49 sc)
- Ch 1, working in sides of rows, work 30 sc evenly spaced across bottom half of back (rows 1-20), place marker in last st worked. Work 50 sc evenly spaced across front (rows 21-83). Place marker in the next st you make. Work 32 sc evenly spaced across top half of back (rows 84-104). Join with sl st to first st of edging. Fasten off. (110 sc)
Chart
Finishing:
Lay work flat with right side up.
Using the stitch markers as a guide, fold top half of back down, then fold bottom half of back up. Back sections should overlap by 13 edging stitches (about 3.75 inches).
Sewing through all layers, sew side seams. Remove all markers and weave in all ends.
Turn pillow right-side-out and insert pillow form.
Rate this Crochet Pillow Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this crochet pillow pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Bavarian Cardi
Comfy and warm, the Bavarian Cardi is heavy enough for layering on cold winter days. The stitch pattern is fun to do, and creates an eye-catching, raised, diamond texture. With a unisex design and sizes ranging from 6 months to 4T, this is a great go-to pattern for gifting!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains sponsored content and affiliate links (click for more info). If you click an affiliate link and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Bavarian Cardi
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Materials:
- Red Heart Soft Baby Steps Yarn (I received this yarn for free from Red Heart for this pattern):
- 1 skein #9620 Baby Green
- 1 skein #9505 Aqua
- 1 skein #9200 Baby Yellow
- Size H / 8 / 5 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn or Tapestry needle
- 5 [5, 5, 6, 6, 6] – ¾ inch buttons.
Difficulty:
Intermediate – Post stitch clusters, some shaping.
Size:
Instructions written for infant’s size 6 mo; changes for 12 mo, 18 mo, 2T, 3T, & 4T in [ ].
Gauge:
14 dc x 8 rows = 4 inches. Gauge is important for a good fit – take time to check your gauge.
Abbreviations:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- dc2tog = double crochet 2 together
- V = v stitch (see Special Stitches)
- cl = cluster (see Special Stitches)
- hcl = half cluster (see Special Stitches)
- sl st = slip stitch
- sp = space
- ch sp = chain space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sk = skip
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources:
Special Stitches:
V Stitch (V): (Dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated stitch.
Fan: (4 dc, ch 1, 4 dc) in indicated stitch.
Cluster (cl): Working around posts as for front post stitches, *(yo, insert hook around post of next dc, yo and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook) 4 times**, sk next sc, rep from * to **, yo and draw through all 9 loops on hook, ch 1 to close.
Half Cluster (hcl): Working around posts as for front post stitches, *(yo, insert hook around post of next dc, yo and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook)** 4 times, yo and draw through all 5 loops on hook, ch 1 to close.
Instructions:
Yoke:
With green, ch 53 [55, 57, 59, 59, 61] loosely.
Note: Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a double crochet throughout
Row 1 (WS [WS, RS, RS, WS, WS]): Dc in 4th ch from hook and in next 7 chs, *V in next ch, dc in next 6 [7, 8, 9, 9, 10] chs, V in next ch,** dc in next 17 chs, repeat from * to **, dc in next 9 chs. (55 [57, 59, 61, 61, 63] sts, 4 ch sps. )
Rows 2-7 [7, 8, 8, 9, 9]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st, (dc in each st across to next ch sp, V in ch sp) 4 times, dc in each st across. (103 [105, 115, 117, 125, 127] sts, 4 ch sps)
Next Row (RS): Ch 3, dc in first 15 [15, 16, 16, 17, 17] sts, *dc in next ch sp, ch 4 [5, 4, 5, 4, 5] (underarm), sk next 20 [21, 24, 25, 27, 28] sts, dc in next ch sp** dc in next 31 [31, 33, 33, 35, 35] sts, repeat from * to **, dc in last 16 [16, 17, 17, 17, 18] sts. (67 [67, 71, 71, 75, 75] sts, 2 underarm sps)
Body:
Row 1 (WS):
Ch 1, sc in first 8 [8, 5, 9, 9, 6] sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, 1 [1, 2, 1, 1, 2] sc in next st, sc in next 2 [2, 5, 2, 3, 6] sts,
*Sc in next 2 [3, 2, 3, 2, 3] chs, mark the last ch you worked into for later joining (center of underarm), sc in next 2 chs,**
2 [1, 2, 2, 1, 2] sc in next st, sc in next 10 [10, 11, 11, 11, 11] sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 9 [9, 9, 9, 11, 11] sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 [10, 11, 11, 11, 11] sts, 2 [1, 2, 2, 1, 2] sc in next st,
Repeat from * to **, sc in next 2 [2, 5, 2, 3, 6] sts, 1 [1, 2, 1, 1, 2] sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 [8, 5, 9, 9, 6] sts. (81 [81, 87, 87, 87, 93] sts)
Row 2: Ch 3, turn, 4 dc in next st, (sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, sk next 2 sts, fan in next st) 12 [12, 13, 13, 13, 14] times, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, sk next 2 sts, 4 dc in next st, dc in last st, changing to aqua. (12 [12, 13, 13, 13, 14] fans)
Row 3: With aqua, ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (ch 3, cl, ch 3, sc in ch-1 sp at top of fan) 12 [12, 13, 13, 13, 14] times, ch 3, cl, ch 3, sc in last st. (13 [13, 14, 14, 14, 15] cls)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (sk next ch-3 sp, fan in next cl, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc) 12 [12, 13, 13, 13, 14] times, fan in last cl, sc in last st, changing to yellow. (13 [13, 14, 14, 14, 15] fans)
Row 5: Ch 3, turn, hcl, (ch 3, sc in ch-1 sp at top of fan, ch 3, cl) 12 [12, 13, 13, 13, 14] times, ch 3, sc in ch-1 sp at top of fan, ch 3, hcl, dc in last st. (12 [12, 13, 13, 13, 14] cls, 2 hcls)
Row 6: Ch 3, turn, 4 dc in top of hcl, (sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc, sk next ch-3 sp, fan in next cl) 12 [12, 13, 13, 13, 14] times, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc, sk next ch-3 sp, 4 dc in top of hcl, dc in last st, changing to green. (12 [12, 13, 13, 13, 14] fans)
Rows 7-8: With green, repeat rows 3 & 4, changing to aqua at the end of row 8 (instead of yellow)
Rows 9-10: With aqua, repeat rows 5 & 6, changing to yellow at the end of row 10 (instead of green)
Rows 11-12: With yellow, repeat rows 3 & 4, changing to green at the end of row 12 (instead of yellow)
Rows 13-14: With green, repeat rows 5 & 6, changing to aqua at the end of row 14 (instead of green)
Sizes 6 months, 12 months, 18 months only:
Row 15: Repeat row 3, changing to green at end of row.
Row 16: With green, ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, 3 hdc in next ch-3 sp, (hdc in next cl, 2 hdc in next ch-3 sp, hdc in next sc, 2 hdc in next ch-3 sp) 12 [12, 13] times, hdc in next cl, 3 hdc in last ch-3 sp, hdc in last st. (81 [81, 87] hdc)
Row 17 (WS): Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, do not fasten off.
Sizes 2T, 3T & 4T only:
Rows 15-17: Repeat rows 3 -5, changing to green at end of row 17.
Row 18: With green, ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, (hdc in next hcl, 2 hdc in next ch-3 sp, hdc in next sc, 2 hdc in next ch-3 sp) 14 [14, 15] times, hdc in next hcl, hdc in last st. (87 [87, 93] hdc)
Row 19 (WS): Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, do not fasten off.
Left Button Band:
Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, working into sides of rows, work 40 [40, 42, 46, 48, 48] hdc evenly spaced across left front (ending at top of yoke).
Rows 2-3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, do not fasten off.
Collar:
Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, working into sides of rows, work 4 sc evenly spaced across top of button band. Now working into foundation ch (at neckline), sc in each ch across, do not fasten off. 55 [57, 59, 61, 61, 63] sc
Right Button Band:
Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, working into sides of rows, work 41 [41, 43, 47, 49, 49] hdc evenly spaced across right front (ending at bottom).
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 [2, 3, 3, 2, 2] sts, {ch 1 (buttonhole), sk next st, sc in next 8 [8, 8, 7, 8, 8] sts} 4 [4, 4, 5, 5, 5] times, ch 1, sk next st, sc in last 2 [2, 3, 3, 1, 1] sts. (5 [5, 5, 6, 6, 6] buttonholes)
Row 3:
Sizes 6 months, 12 months, 18 months & 2T only: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 1 [1, 2, 2] sts, (sk next st, 3 sc in next sp, sk next st, sc in next 5 [6, 6, 5] sts) 4 [4, 4, 5] times, sk next st, 3 sc in last sp, sk next st, sc in last 1 [1, 2, 2] sts. (41 [41, 43, 47] sc)
Sizes 3T & 4T only: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, (3 sc in next sp, sk next st, sc in next 5 [6] sts, sk next st) 5 times, 3 sc in last ch sp, sc in last st. (49 sc)
Edging (RS):
- Ch 1, turn, (sl st, ch 1) in each st on right button band
- Working in sides of rows, (sl st, ch 1) in each row across top of right button band.
- Continuing across collar, (sl st, ch 1) in each st across.
- Continuing across left button band, (sl st, ch 1) in each st across.
- Working in sides of rows, (sl st, ch 1) in each row across bottom of left button band.
- Continuing across bottom, (sl st, ch 1) in each st across.
- Working in sides of rows, (sl st, ch 1) in each row across bottom of right button band, join to starting ch, fasten off.
Sleeve:
With WS [WS, RS, WS, WS, RS] facing, join green with sl st in 3rd underarm ch (center of underarm).
Rnd 1 (WS [WS, RS, WS, WS, RS]): With green, sc in same ch and in next 1[ 2, 1, 2, 1, 2] chs, hdc in sides of next 2 rows, dc in next 20 [21, 24, 25, 27, 28] sts, hdc in sides of next 2 rows, sc in next 2 underarm chs, join with sl st in first st. (28 [30, 32, 34, 35, 37]) sts.
Sizes 3T & 4T only – Rnd 2: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st around, join with sl st in first st.
All sizes:
Rnds 2-3 [2-3, 2-3, 2-3, 3-4, 3-4]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st around to last 2 sts, dc2tog (see Special Stitches) in last 2 sts, join with sl st in first st. (26 [28, 30, 32, 33, 35]) sts
Rnd 4 [4, 4, 4, 5, 5]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st around, join with sl st in first st.
Rnds 5-13 [5-13, 5-13, 5-16, 6-17, 6-20]: Repeat rnds 2-4 [2-4, 2-4, 2-4, 3-5, 3-5] 3 [3, 3, 4, 4, 5] times (20 [22, 24, 24, 25, 25] sts)
Size 12 months only – Rnds 14-15: Repeat rnds 2-3. (20 sts)
Size 18 months only – Rnds 14-16: Repeat rnds 2-3, then repeat rnd 2 again. (21 sts)
Size 2T only – Rnd 17: Repeat rnd 2. (23 sts)
Size 3T only – Rnds 18-19: Repeat rnds 4-5 (24 sts)
All sizes – Edging rnd (RS): Ch 1, turn, (sl st, ch 1) in each st around, join with sl st in first st, fasten off.
Repeat sleeve instructions for 2nd sleeve.
Finishing:
Sew buttons to left button band so that they line up with the buttonholes on the right button band.
Weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern.
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches ‘N’ Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches ‘N’ Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog, as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Brushwood Ear Warmer
Stay warm in style with this cozy ear warmer! This beginner friendly pattern features a fun and easy texture stitch. A super stretchy, ribbed section at the back ensures a snug fit. The pattern also includes instructions for adjusting the size if desired.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains sponsored content and affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Brushwood Ear Warmer
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Materials:
- 100 yds, worsted weight yarn – Sample is shown in Cascade 220, in a discontinued color.
- Size I / 5.5 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Difficulty:
Easy – Basic stitches, no decreases, worked flat and seamed. Ribbed section is worked in back loop only.
Size:
Adult – One size fits most. Can be adjusted to fit.
Gauge:
15 sc x 16 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern to measure gauge – after row 8, work should measure approximately 5.25 x 4 inches. Exact gauge is not critical – pattern can be adjusted to fit.
Abbreviations:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- blo = back loop only
- sp = space
- ch sp = chain space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sk = skip
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
Chain 15 (multiple of 3)
Note: You can start with fewer or more chains for a narrower or wider band, as long as it’s a multiple of 3.
Row 1 (WS): Working into the back bumps of the chains, sc in 2nd ch from hook, *dc in next st, (sc, dc) in next st, sc in next st, repeat from * across to last st, dc in last st. (18 sts)
Row 2-42: Ch 1, turn, sc in first dc, (dc in next sc, sc in next dc) across to last st, dc in last st. (18 sts)
Note: Check your length – it should now be about 4 inches shorter than needed to fit around head snugly. You can work more or fewer rows, just be sure to end after a wrong side row.
Row 43: Ch 1, turn; Working in blo: sl st in first st, (sl st in next st, sk next st, sl st in next 2 sts) across to last st, sl st in last st. (14 sl sts)
Rows 44-47: Ch 1, turn, sl st in blo of each st across.
Note: Check your length – it should now fit around head snugly. If it’s too tight or too loose, you can add or remove more ribbing rows, just be sure to end after a right side row.
Row 48 (seaming): Fold ear warmer in half, with right sides together. Working through blo of row 47, and both remaining loops from bottom of foundation chain, sl st in each st across.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. Thanks to MixedKreations, LoopedDLu, and Kaikelasa for testing it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches ‘N’ Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches ‘N’ Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog, as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Ice Scraper Mitt
Keep your hand warm and cozy while scraping ice off your windshield! The ribbed texture stretches to accommodate most basic ice scrapers, and to fit most hands too. This beginner friendly pattern is made with only 3 simple stitches, and with bulky yarn it works up in no time. Need a last minute holiday gift? You still have time to make one of these!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains sponsored content and affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Ice Scraper Mitt
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Materials:
- 65 yds, bulky weight yarn – Sample is shown in Willow Burrow Bulky, color #47 Marine
- Size J / 6.0 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
- Ice Scraper
Difficulty:
Easy – basic stitches, worked in back loop only.
Size:
One size fits most. Can be adjusted to fit.
Gauge:
12 sc x 14 rows = 4 inches. Exact gauge is not critical – pattern can be adjusted to fit.
Abbreviations:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- blo = back loop only
- sp = space
- ch sp = chain space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
Chain 36.
Row 1 (RS): Working into the back bumps of the chains, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 8 chs, hdc in next 21 chs, sl st in last 5 chs. (9 sc, 21 hdc, 5 sl sts)
Note: All stitches are worked in back loop only for the remainder of the pattern.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sl st in blo of each sl st, hdc in blo of each hdc, sc in blo of each sc. (5 sl sts, 21 hdc, 9 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in blo of each sc, hdc in blo of each hdc, sl st in blo of each sl st. (9 sc, 21 hdc, 5 sl sts)
Rows 4 – 18: Repeat rows 2 & 3 seven more times, then repeat row 2 once more.
Note: It’s ok to add or remove a few rows here for a better fit if needed, just be sure to end after a wrong side row. The edge where the single crochets are should fit snugly around your wrist.
Fasten off, leaving a 24 inch tail for sewing.
Finishing:
- Fold work in half lengthwise, with right sides together.
- Working through both loops of the stitches on each side, sew edges together with a whipstitch.
- Weave in ends
- Insert ice scraper into the smaller (slip stitch) end.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern.
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches ‘N’ Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches ‘N’ Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog, as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Granny Square Gift Card Envelope
Giving a gift card? Personalize it with this fast and easy gift card envelope! Made from a simple granny square, it works up quickly and is a great project for beginners.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Granny Square Gift Card Envelope
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Materials:
- 30 yds sport weight yarn
- 8 inches contrasting yarn or ribbon for tie
- Size G / 4 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
- 2 Locking stitch markers or safety pins
Difficulty:
Easy- Basic granny square with a slight modification and some seaming.
Size:
About 4″ wide by 3″ tall.
Gauge:
26 dc x 11 rows = 4″. Use project for gauge – Finished granny square should measure approximately 5″ before seaming. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
Granny Square
Note: Ch 3 at at the beginning of a round counts as a dc throughout. The ch 4 at the beginning of rnd 1 is a foundation chain plus a dc.
Rnd 1 (WS): Ch 4, 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, (ch 2, 3 dc) three times in same ch, ch 2 [corner sp], join with sl st to first st. (12 dc, 4 corner sps)
Note: From this point forward you will only be working in ch sps. Skip all stitches unless otherwise specified.
Rnd 2: Turn, sl st in first corner sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1) in each of next 3 corner sps, (3 dc, ch 2) in same corner sp as start of round, join with sl st to first st. (24 dc, 4 ch-1 sps, 4 corner sps)
Rnd 3: Turn, sl st in first corner sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, {(3 dc, ch 1) in next ch-1 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1) in next corner sp] 3 times, (3 dc, ch 1) in next ch-1 sp, 3 dc in beginning corner sp, ch 2, join with sl st to first st. (36 dc, 8 ch-1 sps, 4 corner sps)
Rnd 4: Turn, sl st in first corner sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, {(3 dc, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp across to next corner, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1) in next corner sp] 3 times, (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp across to beginning corner, 3 dc in beginning corner sp, ch 2, join with sl st to first st. (48 dc, 12 ch-1 sps, 4 corner sps)
Rnd 5: Repeat Rnd 4. (60 dc, 16 ch-1 sps, 4 corner sps)
Rnd 6: Turn, sl st in first corner sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, {(3 dc, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp across to next corner, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1) in next corner sp] 2 times, (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp across to last corner, (hdc, sc, sl st, sc, hdc) in last corner [flat corner], (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp across to beginning corner, 3 dc in beginning corner sp, ch 2, join with sl st to first st. (70 sts, 20 ch-1 sps, 3 corner sps)
Fasten off.
Seaming:
Click on any images to view larger
Place piece in front of you with right side facing and the flat corner at the bottom. Each edge should be about 5 inches.
Fold up the bottom corner so it approximately rests at the middle of the square. The folded edge at the bottom should be about 4 inches.
Fold sides in so that the spaces marked A and B in the previous picture match up. The corner spaces at the sides should match up with the ch-1 sps on either side of the flat corner. Use stitch markers or safety pins to hold corners in place. Place gift card into pouch and make sure it fits. If it doesn’t, adjust folds until it does.
Sew sides to bottom using a whip stitch seam, and remove markers once secure.
Weave in all ends and turn envelope right side out.
Fastening:
Thread 6-8 inch section of contrasting ribbon or yarn through the spaces on either side of the flat corner.
Fold top over, and thread tie through the same holes on top corner.
Tie a bow, and trim ends as desired. Tip – if you turn the piece upside down before tying your bow, your bow will come out right side up!
Alternately, you could fasten your envelope with a button, clip, hook and loop closure, or by just tucking the top into the bottom.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches ‘N’ Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches ‘N’ Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Sleepy Snowman
Shhhh! This sweet little snowman is sleepy. He’s had a busy day playing in the freshly fallen snow, and now he’s resting, all cozy in his cap and scarf. Add a Sleepy Snowman to your holiday decor, or make one as a gift! He works up quickly, and is great for using up scraps.
This pattern was designed for the Holiday Stashdown CAL 2017 on CAL Central. With this CAL, you can clean out your stash and end up with some beautiful items for holiday gifting, plus there are tons of great giveaway prizes to be won!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains sponsored content and affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Sleepy Snowman
Add this to your Ravelry Queue
Materials:
- Worsted weight yarn
- 50 yds white
- 10 yds each of green and silver
- Small amounts of black, red, and orange embroidery floss or crochet thread (to embroider face)
- Size H / 5 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
- Fiberfill / stuffing material (a couple of handfuls)
- Stitch marker (optional)
- Small pom-pom maker (optional)
Difficulty:
Intermediate – Simple stitches worked in continuous rounds, with some assembly and embroidery.
Size:
About 6″ tall (not counting hat).
Gauge:
14 sc x 17 rows = 4 inches. Exact gauge is not critical for this project, but stitches should be tight enough to hold stuffing in.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
- fphdc = front post half double crochet
- bphdc = back post half double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
- Tutorial – How to make a pom pom without a pom pom maker
- Tutorial – Continuous rounds and running stitch markers
- Tutorial – Why Continuous Rounds Shift
- Tutorial – Changing Colors
Instructions:
Notes:
- Do not join rounds or turn, unless specifically instructed.
- You may find it helpful to mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker or piece of scrap yarn
Snowman
Head
Rnd 1 (RS): With white, work 6 sc in a magic loop OR ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) 6 times. (18 sc)
Rnds 4-7: Sc in each st around (18 sc)
Rnd 8: (Sc2tog, sc in next st) 6 times. (12 sc)
Start stuffing head. Continue to stuff snowman as you go. Stuff firmly, but do not overstuff (stuffing should not show through stitches).
Rnd 9: Sc2tog around (6 sts)
Middle
Rnds 10-11: Repeat rnds 2-3.
Rnd 12: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) 6 times. (24 sc)
Rnds 13-17: Sc in each st around (24 sc)
Rnd 18: (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts) 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 19: Repeat rnd 8.
Bottom
Rnd 20: Repeat rnd 3.
Rnd 21: Repeat rnd 12.
Rnd 22: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts) 6 times. (30 sc)
Rnds 23-28: Sc in each st around. (30 sc)
Rnd 29: (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts) 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 30: Repeat rnd 18.
Rnds 31-32: Repeat rnds 8-9.
Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch tail.
Finishing
Finish stuffing.
With tail and yarn needle, sew through each of last 6 stitches, using a running stitch. Pull tight to close bottom.
Flatten bottom (optional – helps snowman to stand freely): Sew tail up through center of bottom, and bring needle out somewhere on the neckline. Pull gently until bottom flattens. Insert needle 1 stitch over (in any direction), back down through the snowman, and out at the center bottom again.
Eyes & Mouth: Using images as a guide, embroider eyes and mouth. They are both made the same way. Come up at 1 side (A). Go down the other side (B), and come up below and in the middle of those two points (C). Make sure the thread goes under your needle, so it is pulled down slightly in the middle. Go back down as close as possible to the same spot (C), making sure you are catching that thread in your stitch as you do, to lock it in place.
Nose: I didn’t originally have a nose on my snowman, until one of the testers (Heather – Libbadiah on Ravelry), added a little carrot nose on hers. I liked it so much, I had to add one to mine too! It’s made the same way as the other features, except that the stitch is worked vertically instead of horizontally, and then tacked down off to the side. Thanks Heather!
Weave in all tails. Weave the starting and ending tails of the embroidery floss / threads into sections where they will be hidden – so under where the hat will be, or where the scarf will be.
Hat
With silver, ch 20, leaving a 16 inch starting tail. Being careful not to twist, join with sl st to form a circle.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, hdc in back bump of 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, join with sl st to first st. (20 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, bphdc in first st, (fphdc in next st, bphdc in next st) around to last st, fphdc in next st, join with sl st, changing to green. (20 sts)
Rnds 3-6: With green, sc in each st around. Do not join. (20 sc)
Rnd 6: (Sc2tog, sc in next st) 6 times, sc2tog. Do not join. (13 sc)
Rnd 7: Sc in next st, sc2tog 6 times. Fasten off. (7 sts)
Use green tail to sew top of hat shut, then weave in the end.
Make a pom pom with silver yarn, and trim to about 1 inch. Use tails from pom pom to sew or tie it onto the hat, then weave in the ends.
Use starting (silver) tail from hat to sew hat to snowman’s head, then weave in the end.
Scarf
With silver and green yarns together, ch 36. Tie a knot at each end of the chain and trim tails to form “fringe”. Wrap around snowman’s neck as desired.
Important! If you are making this for children, be sure to sew all pieces (including the scarf) securely into place so they can’t be removed or get wrapped around little fingers.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern! Thanks to pandastamper, tawnierose, libbadiah, and JStockert for testing it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches ‘N’ Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches ‘N’ Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!