Free Crochet Patterns
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Crochet Socks Pattern – Walking on Clouds
Treat your feet to these super soft, cushy, socks! This crochet socks pattern is great for first time sock crocheters, because it has a simple construction that works up quickly. With a stretchy cuff, squishy yarn, and roomy fit, you’ll feel like you’re walking on clouds.
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Hand Dyed Sock Set
Global Backyard Industries sent me some of their new sock yarn for free for this design. They always have something fun and new to try out! Their new sock yarn is a superwash merino/nylon blend and comes in a series of hand-dyed, coral and indigo shades. These colorways are made exclusively for Global Backyard Industries by Summit Rd Fibers.
For my socks I used the Speckled Cake and Indigo Mini sock set. The speckled white cake has patches of lighter shading as well as the strong speckles. Combined with the soft feel, this made me think of a sky full of fluffy clouds, and that’s where the Walking on Clouds name came from.
There are a few other color combinations to choose from and you can also buy the cakes separately, as well as sets of only minis. I really like the look of the Deep Coral cake, which shifts through blue and grey to a vibrant coral shade. That one also comes with the Indigo mini.
The 1 mini skein was just enough to do the toes, heel, and a few rows of ribbing on my large size pair of socks.
A Matching Bag!
Global Backyard also sent me a free zippered pouch. This is one of my favorite things about this line of yarns – they also have a line of bags that are specifically dyed to match the yarn! The one they sent me is a beautiful shade of deep indigo, almost black, fading to white at the top. They have other color combinations, designs, and sizes, all designed to coordinate with the yarn.
While I was working on the socks, I used the pouch as a project bag. Now that they’re done, I may use it as a clutch when I wear them. So make a pair of socks, a shawl, or any other accessory from this yarn, and you can buy a matching bag to carry when you wear it! How neat is that?
Afterthought Construction
This is the first time I have designed a crochet socks pattern. For the construction, I looked to my favorite style of knit socks – toe up with an “afterthought” heel. An afterthought heel is when you knit or crochet the whole rest of the sock, leaving an opening for the heel to be put in later – as an afterthought.
Since it works so well for heels, I thought I would try doing an afterthought toe as well. In crochet socks, unlike knit socks, this makes the toe and heel effectively removable. In fact, you can work this pattern as yoga socks, with no toe and heel at all! You can also replace them easily if they get worn out, without having to remake the entire sock.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Walking on Clouds
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Materials
- 1 Sock Set from Global Backyard Industries – 85% superwash merino / 15% nylon. Set includes:
- 437 yds / 400 m / 100 g cake – Speckled (A)
- 87 yds / 80 m / 20 g mini skein – Indigo (B)
- Size G / 4 mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
- 1-2 stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Scrap of yarn (about 1 yd) to use as running stitch marker (optional)
Project Level
Intermediate: Continuous rounds, working into bottom and sides of stitches, decreases.
Size
S [M, L]. To fit women’s shoe sizes 6-7 [8-9, 10-11] with a foot circumference of 7 [8, 9] inches. Instructions are given for size small, with changes for medium, and large in [ ].
Gauge
19 dc x 13 rounds = 4 inches when worked in continuous rounds. Gauge is important for a good fit, take time to check gauge. You can use the foot part of the pattern as a gauge swatch.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
fphdc = front post half double crochet
bphdc = back post half double crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
dec = invisible decrease (see Special Stitch)
sk = skip
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources
- Continuous Rounds and Running Stitch Markers
- Front and Back Post Stitch Crochet by Jessie at Home
- Mattress Stitch Seaming from Moogly
Special Stitch
Invisible decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook.
This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Instructions
Foot and Cuff are worked in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark first stitch of rounds – see this tutorial for using running stitch markers.
Foot:
Foundation: With A, ch 30 [34, 38] loosely. Being careful not to twist, join with sl st to form a circle.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in first st, hdc in next st, dc in each remaining st around. (30 [34, 38] hdc)
Rnds 2-15 [18, 21]: Dc in each st around.
Cuff:
Rnd 1: Ch 1, hdc in next 14 [16, 18]sts, place a marker in next st on foot, hdc in marked st, ch 15 [17, 19], sk next 15 [17, 19] sts. (15 [17, 19] hdc, 15 [17, 19] chs)
Rnd 2: Hdc in next st, (hdc in blo of next st, hdc in next st) 7 [8, 9] times, hdc in each ch around. (30 [34, 38] hdc)
Rnds 3-24: (Hdc in next st, hdc in blo of next st) around.
Rnd 25: (Hdc in next st, hdc in blo of next st) around to last 2 sts, sc in next st, sl st in next st, fasten off. (30 [34, 38] sts)
Heel, Toe, and Cuff Edging are worked in turned rounds. Join rounds as indicated with a sl st in the first stitch of the round.
Heel
With right side facing, join B with sl st in marked st on foot.
Rnd 1: Sc in same st, sc in each skipped st on foot, sc in next st on foot, sc in side of row on cuff, mark last st worked, sc in bottom of each ch on cuff, sc in side of row on cuff, join. (34 [38, 42] sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, (dec, sc in next 15 [17, 19] sts) twice, join. (32 [36, 40] sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, turn, (sc in next 14 [16, 18] sts, dec) twice, join. (30 [34, 38] sts)
Rnd 5: Repeat rnd 3
Rnd 6: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in next 13 [15, 17] sts, place marker in last st worked, dec, sc in next 11 [13, 15] sts, join. (28 [32, 36] sts)
Rnds 7-8 [9, 9]: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in each st to marker, move marker to last st worked, dec, sc in remaining sts, join. (24 [26, 30] sts)
Rnds 10-12 [12, 13] 10-12, 12, 13: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in each st to marker, move marker to last st worked, dec twice, sc in each st to last 2 sts, dec, join. (12 [14, 14] sts)
Fasten off, leaving an 8 inch tail. Remove marker.
Toe
Lay sock flat as shown below, so that heel is centered. Place a stitch marker in the stitch on the last row of the foot that lines up directly with the side edge of the heel (either side). This will become the side edge of the toe.
Rnd 1: Join B with a sl st in marked stitch, sc in each st around, join, remove marker. (30 [34, 38] sts)
Rnd 2 [2-4, 2-4]: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join.
Rnd 3 [5, 5]: Ch 1, turn, (dec, sc in next 13 [15, 17] sts) twice, join. (28 [32, 36] sts)
Rnd 4 [6, 6]: Repeat rnd 2
Size L only:
Rnd 5: Ch 1, turn, (sc in next 12 [14, 16] sts, dec) twice, join. (26 [30, 34] sts)
Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 2
All Sizes:
Rnd 7: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in next 12 [14, 15] sts, place marker in last st worked, dec, sc in next 12 [14, 15] sts, join. (26 [30, 32] sts)
Rnd(s) 8 [8-9, 8-10]: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in each st to marker, move marker to last st worked, dec, sc in remaining sts, join. (24 [26, 26] sts)
Rnds 9-11 [10-12, 11-13]: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in each st to marker, move marker to last st worked, dec twice, sc in each st to last 2 sts, dec, join. (12 [14, 14] sts)
Fasten off, leaving an 8 inch tail. Remove marker.
Cuff Edging
Join B with sl st in any stitch on cuff.
Rnd 1: Sc in each st around.
Rnds 2-3: Ch 1, (fphdc around next st, bphdc around next st) around, join with sl st to first st.
Finishing
Use tails to sew toe and heel closed. I recommend a mattress stitch because it is relatively flat and invisible – see this great mattress stitch tutorial from Moogly.
Weave in all ends and remove any remaining stitch markers.
Wash and block for best results.
I hope you enjoy making this crochet socks pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Peg Doll Angel – Crochet Angel Pattern
Add a peg doll angel to a holiday display, on the tree, or as a gift. This crochet angel pattern is perfect for any time of year. Make them in birthstone colors for birthday gifts or to show mom she’s an angel on Mother’s Day.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Peg Dolls from Woodpeckers Crafts
The folks at Woodpeckers Crafts sent me free samples of several of their wood products to try out in various yarnie projects. I used their wood rings in my Fearless necklace earlier this year. These three peg dolls were part of that sample package as well.
Finishing the wood
The wood pieces come unfinished, so they can be stained, painted, or coated in any way you like. In the case of the peg dolls, this means you can paint them to match various skin tones if you want to. When I made the Fearless necklace, I rubbed the wood rings with a high gloss tung oil finish to make them shiny. While I was doing that, I did the same to the peg dolls.
Beads or picots
The peg doll angel dress has two options for the edging. You can choose a beaded edge or a picot edge, but you need to make the choice before starting on the dress. If you choose a beaded edge, the beads need to be pre-strung onto the thread before you start.
For tips on working with beads, see this Crocheting with Beads tutorial. For tips on making picots, see this Picot Two Ways tutorial.
Glue and stiffener:
You will need to stiffen the wings, and then glue them on to the peg doll angel. You can use the same glue for both tasks, or use different products if you prefer. The products I used are both samples I got free from the manufacturers at a conference.
To stiffen the wings, I used spray on Mod Podge. Using a spray on means that I can take my time positioning the item and pinning it in place, without worrying about it drying out or getting sticky. I also used this on my Mandala Earrings, and you can see it in use in the video for that pattern.
Both times I have used this spray on stiffener, I found that I had to use 2 coats to get the stiffness I wanted. With a liquid stiffener or glue, you can rub it into the fiber more thoroughly and don’t need the extra coat.
To glue the wings onto the angel, I used Ultra Bond Adhesive from iCraft. Really any glue that will stick to the thread and dry clear is fine. I like this bottle because it has a very thin tip that gives me a lot of control.
A note on gauge
I have not included a gauge measurement because the project itself is so small that it takes less time to make than a swatch would. The real key to sizing is the neckline and the length of the dress. The beginning chain circle at the neckline needs to be wide enough to fit over the peg doll angel’s head. It should just barely fit, and may need a little coaxing to go over. The dress should be long enough to cover the peg doll completely and flare out a bit at the bottom.
My gauge tends to vary a bit in thread because I don’t work with it that often. If you look closely, you may notice that all my wings are slightly different sizes. As long as you meet the two key measurements on the dress, the rest will be fine even if it’s a little bit off.
Peg Doll Angel
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Materials
- 2″ (medium) peg doll angel, available at Woodpeckers Crafts
- 10-20 yds size 10 crochet thread
- Size 8 / 1.5mm crochet hook
- Darning needle
- Glue (to attach wings)
- Cardboard box or other square edge for shaping
- Wax paper to cover cardboard edge.
- 1″ x 2″ piece of cardboard (for shaping halo)
- Other fabric stiffener of choice (optional)
- 9 size 6/0 or 8/0 seed beads (optional)
Project Level
Intermediate: Thread crochet in the round, with beads or picots.
Size
To fit a 2″ peg doll angel
Gauge
Dress should just barely fit over peg doll’s head with some coaxing, and be long enough to reach the bottom and flare out a bit. Slight variations in gauge are OK.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
sb = set bead (see Special Stitches)
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
rnd = round
RS = right side
Recommended Resources
Special Stitches:
Set Bead (sb): (See beading tutorial)
Slide a bead up next to the last stitch you made, so that it gets wrapped up into the next chain.
Picot: (See picot tutorial)
Ch 2, sl st in top of the previous stitch you made.
Instructions
Ch 3 at the start of a round counts as a dc.
Dress:
Ch 15, join with sl st to form a loop
Entire dress is worked on RS, without turning. Join rounds as indicated with a sl st in the first st unless otherwise specified.
Rnd 1: Ch 3, 18 dc in loop, join. (18 sts)
Slide work over peg doll’s head to make sure it fits. Adjust gauge if needed. Remove peg doll before continuing.
Rnds 2-4: Ch 3, dc in each st around, join.
Rnd 5: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), dc in same st, [sk next st, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next st] around to last st, sk last st, join. (9 ch-1 sps)
Put dress on peg doll and see that it reaches just to the bottom. If it does not, undo rnd 5 and add or subtract a round of dc if needed, then redo rnd 5.
Rnd 6 – with beads: Ch 1, sk first dc, [(3 sc, sb, ch 1, 3 sc) in next ch-1 sp, sk next 2 dc] across to last ch-1 sp, (3 sc, sb, ch 1, 3 sc) in next ch-1 sp, sk last st, join. (9 shells with beads)
OR
Rnd 6 – with picots: Ch 1, sk first dc, [(3 sc, picot, 3 sc) in next ch-1 sp, sk next 2 dc] across to last ch-1 sp, (3 sc, picot, 3 sc) in next ch-1 sp, sk last st, join. (9 shells with picots)
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Sew an 8-inch thread through the stitches at the neckline of the dress, leaving the ends hanging out to act as a drawstring. We will later be tying these into a bow and trimming.
Wash and block dress, paying particular attention to straightening the beads or picots.
Wings:
Wings are worked back and forth in rows – do not join.
Row 1 (WS): Ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (8 sts)
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch-1), turn, dc in next st, (ch 1, dc) in each st across. (8 ch-1 sps)
Row 3: Ch 3, turn, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp, sk next st, (3 dc in next ch-1 sp, sk next st) across to last ch-1 sp, 2 dc in last ch-1 sp, dc in last st. (24 sts)
Row 4: Ch 3, turn, sc in next st, (ch 3, sk next st, sc in next st) across to last st, dc in last st.
Edging: Do not turn. Rotate to work into sides of rows across top (flat edge) of wing. Ch 1, work 9 sc evenly spaced across top to center, ch 15 (halo), work 9 sc evenly spaced to end.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Stiffening the wings
- Cover cardboard strip and one edge of cardboard box with wax paper. This will keep the stiffener from sticking to it. (In the pictures, I forgot to put wax paper on my small cardboard strips).
- Wash wings and squeeze out as much water as possible with a towel.
- Add stiffener of your choice. You can use the same glue you will be using to attach the wings, or you can use a commercial fabric stiffener or starch. If using a spray on stiffener, skip this step.
- With right side facing out, arrange wings over edge of box, creating a fold along the center line. Pin in place and straighten out ch-3 loops along the edge.
- Place the small cardboard piece under the halo so that it is perpendicular to the box edge – basically, you want the halo not to have a fold in it, and to be propped forward just a bit. Pin cardboard and halo in place.
- If you’re using a spray on stiffener, spray that on now. Be sure to protect your surfaces and wipe up any drips.
- Allow to dry completely.
- Add additional coats of stiffener if needed, and allow to dry completely before removing from box.
Finishing
- Put dress on peg doll angel. Pull drawstring to cinch it tightly around the neck, then tie in a bow and trim ends.
- Glue wings to back of dress.
I hope you enjoy making this crochet, peg doll angel pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
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Corner to Corner Crochet Dishcloth – Symbiosis
Wash up with this lightly textured, corner to corner crochet dishcloth. The bright colors and simple texture works equally well for dishes, bath time, and more. Best of all, you can easily adjust the pattern to any size you need!
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Did you know
Most corals are naturally translucent, with white skeletons. They get their vivid colors from algae that grow inside their bodies. It’s just one of the many symbiotic relationships that make up the beauty of a coral reef. Choosing reusable washcloths or other eco-friendly options over plastic sponges is a simple way to help keep our oceans beautiful.
2019 Washcloth Crochet Along
I designed this corner to corner crochet dishcloth for the CAL Central 2019 Washcloth Crochet Along. Follow along for a new washcloth pattern every Monday through August 19th, and of course, there is a giveaway too! See the giveaway details and full schedule, including links to the rest of the July patterns, in this intro post on Underground Crafter.
Paintbox Cotton DK
Lovecrafts generously provided the Paintbox Cotton DK yarn that I used in this pattern. I love this yarn for dishcloths because it’s very soft and absorbent. It comes in a wide array of colors too. Because the skeins are smaller, you can mix and match colors without having tons left over.
Lovecrafts is providing some of this lovely yarn as one of the giveaway prizes as well. Be sure to check out the giveaway details on the main CAL post.
From Corner to Corner
Most often, when people say “corner to corner” or “c2c”, they are talking about diagonal box stitch. But there are a surprising array of stitches that can be worked from corner to corner. This particular dishcloth uses a fun, half double crochet pattern that I’ve been playing with a lot recently. For a very simple stitch, it adds a lot of rich texture! I also particularly love the way the color change row came out.
Working into the 3rd loop
The texture of this dishcloth is created by alternating between working normal half double crochet stitches, and working half double crochet stitches into the third loop. The third loop is in the front and just below the front and back loops that we normally work into.
For a more detailed look at working into the third loop of hdc, see this tutorial
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Symbiosis
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Materials
- Paintbox Cotton DK Yarn (100% cotton, 137 yds / 50g per ball).
- 60 yds #427 Slate Green (A)
- 60 yds #456 Vintage Pink (B)
- Size G / 4 mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Easy: Basic stitches in a repeating pattern. Working in 3rd loop of half double crochet.
Size
10-inch square after blocking – size can be adjusted if desired.
Gauge
14 hdc x 13 rows = 4 inches. Exact gauge isn’t critical. Use pattern as gauge swatch – after row 10, you should have a triangle that is 4 inches long on each of the 2 shorter sides.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sk = skip
RS = right side
Recommended Resources
Instructions
Color A – Increasing
With A, ch 2
Row 1: 3 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. (3 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in last st. (5 sts).
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next st, hdc in 3rd loop of next st, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in last st. (7 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first st, [hdc in next st, hdc in 3rd loop of next st] across to last 2 sts, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in last st. (9 sts)
Repeat row 4 twenty more times, change to B at end of last row, fasten off A. (49 sts).
To change the size, add more or fewer repeats of row 4 as desired.
Color B – Decreasing
Row 1 (RS): With B, ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. Place a marker in the first st of this row. (49 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, [hdc in next st, hdc in 3rd loop of next st] across to last 2 sts, sk next st, hdc in last st. (47 sts)
Repeat row 2 twenty two more times, or until 3 stitches remain. (3 sts)
Row 25: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, hdc in next st, ch 1, sl st in last st, fasten off. (1 hdc).
Edging Rnd
With right side facing, join B with a sl st in first st of row 1 of color B section. This should be where your tails are from when you changed colors.
- Working across sides of rows of color B: , work 37 sc evenly spaced to corner, ch 1, work 37 sc evenly spaced to next corner, change to A.
- Working across sides of rows of color A, work 37 sc evenly spaced to corner, ch 1, work 37 sc evenly spaced to starting corner, join with sl st to first st of edging, fasten off.
I hope you enjoy making this corner to corner crochet dishcloth pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
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Back To School Pencil Case Crochet Pattern
It feels like summer came late this year, so it’s hard to believe it’s back to school time already! Whether for school, work, or crafts, get organized with this handy pencil case. It’s a great way to store brushes, markers, knitting needles, crochet hooks, or..well..pencils.
This post contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
A Blank Canvas
I made my pencil case white so it would be a blank canvas that I could decorate. Some time ago, Artesprix had given me a free set of thermal transfer markers to review. As it turns out, they work really well on polyester yarn! Learn how you can personalize your pencil case in this tutorial.
Lion Brand Feels Like Butta yarn
For the thermal transfer markers to work, I needed a 100% polyester yarn. Luckily, Lion Brand has one! They sent me a free skein of Feels Like Butta yarn for this design. I had never used this yarn before and chose it purely for the fiber content. I’m glad I got a chance to try it. It’s soft and silky and drapes fabulously.
The way it flows through my hands when I work with it is hard to describe. I wouldn’t actually call it butter, more like a feather light velvet. It’s a little thinner than other worsted weight yarns, but fluffs up nicely when washed.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Back to School Pencil Case
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Materials
- 75 yds of Lion Brand Feels Like Butta yarn (100% polyester, 218 yds / 199 g per skein) #100 – White
- Size J / 6 mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
- Stitch marker or scrap of yarn
- 9 inch black zipper
- 1-2 yds size 10, white, cotton crochet thread
- Sharp embroidery or tapestry needle (for sewing thread onto zipper)
- Water soluble, fabric marking pencil or chalk
- Larger yarn or tapestry needle (for weaving in yarn ends)
Project Level
Intermediate: Split single crochet, worked in the round. Crocheting onto a zipper.
Size
9 inches wide x 3.5 inches tall. Height is adjustable.
Gauge
13 split sc x 24 rows = 4 inches.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
ssc = split single crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sk = skip
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources
Special Stitch
Split Single Crochet (ssc): Single crochet in the center, between the “legs”, of the indicated stitch, rather than in the normal location.
This stitch is sometimes also called waistcoat stitch. It causes the stitches to line up directly on top of each other for a smooth, knit-like fabric. See this split stitches tutorial for a more detailed look at this and other centered / split stitches.
Instructions
Pencil Case
Pencil case is worked in continuous rounds, on right side of work. Do not join or turn. Mark first stitch of rounds – see this tutorial for using running stitch markers.
Foundation Chain: Ch 31
Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Rotate to work on opposite side of foundation chain, sc in bottom of each st across. (60 sc)
Rnds 2-20: Ssc in each st around. Do not fasten off.
To make a taller pencil case, work more rounds until you reach your desired height.
Preparing Zipper
With fabric marking pencil, make 31 marks along one side of zipper. Space the marks about 5/16 inches apart, along the middle of the zipper tape. Start from just in front of the top stop (where the zipper pull rests when closed), and end just past the bottom stop. I found it easier to tape the zipper down while marking it, to keep it from moving.
At the bottom stop end, make the very last marks a little bit closer to the center of the zipper.
Make 31 matching marks on the opposite side of the zipper.
With sharp needle and crochet thread, sew a chain stitch around zipper as follows:
Start near the top stop at one side of the zipper. Bring the needle up at the first mark, leaving an 8 inch tail.
*Bring needle down through the same mark, leaving a loop of thread on top of the fabric.
Bring needle up at next mark and through loop of thread, pulling gently to tighten the loop. Keep the tension even but a little loose – you will need to get your crochet hook under that chain stitch later. **
Repeat from * to ** across to last mark.
Bring needle down just in front of the last loop, to secure it. Then bring it up again at the first mark on the opposite side of the zipper.
Repeat from* to ** across to last mark on this side.
Bring the needle down just in front of the last loop to secure it, and remove needle.
Crocheting the Zipper on
Hold zipper in place against pencil case so that the next stitch on the pencil case lines up with the first stitch on the zipper.
If you have trouble working into the zipper chain stitches, you can try using a smaller hook. Just be sure to keep your tension loose so your gauge will match the rest of the pencil case.
Working through the center of the stitches on the pencil case and the chains on the zipper together, ssc in each st around.
When you reach the back end of the zipper, Tuck the extra tape “tails” inside the pencil case and continue working around. Join with sl st to first st.
Fasten off and weave in yarn ends.
Use thread tails to tack down the extra tape at the top of the zipper, then weave in the ends.
Remove any stitch marker(s).
I hope you enjoy making this back to school pencil case. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Easy Crochet Slippers Pattern – Simply Slippers
Give the gift of warmth this holiday season with Simply Slippers! This easy, crochet slippers pattern comes in 4 adult sizes from small through xl. It’s made in bulky yarn, so it works up really quickly. Make a pair for everyone on your list (and don’t forget one for yourself too!)
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Christmas in July Make Along
This pattern was designed for the 2019 Christmas in July Make Along. Underground Crafter is kicking off the holiday season with 31 days of handmade designs, and a giveaway too! Get all the details here.
The Christmas in July event is divided into 5 weekly themes. This week’s theme is gifts for men, so of course I tried to think of something to make for my husband. He already has a shelf full of handmade scarves and hats, so this year I decided on slippers. I went with a simple, no-fuss design, made in a thick, warm yarn.
Lion Brand Color Made Easy yarn
Lion Brand originally sent me this Color Made Easy yarn for free for my Cobblestone Lane knit scarf pattern. I’m madly in love with how squishy and soft it is, and had just enough left over for these cozy, easy, crochet slippers. My favorite colors in this line are the neutrals, but for those of you who like brighter and bolder shades, they have those too!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Simply Slippers
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Materials
- 100-150 yds of Lion Brand Color Made Easy yarn (100% acrylic, 247 yds / 200 g per skein)
- Size K / 6.5mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Easy: Working in rounds and rows, working evenly across edge.
Size
S [M, L, XL]. To fit foot lengths of 8 – 9 [9 – 10, 10 – 11, 11 – 12] inches. Instructions are given for size small, with changes for medium, large, and extra large in [ ].
Gauge
10 sc x 13 rows = 4 inches.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sk = skip
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources
Instructions
Toe
Join rounds as indicated with a slip stitch in the first stitch of the round.
Ch 3
Rnd 1 RS [RS, RS, WS]: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc in next ch, join. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, 2 sc in each st around, sc in same st as first st, join. 7.5 [8.5, 9.5, 10.5] inches (12 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 sts, [2 sc in next st] twice, sc in next 4 sts, [2 sc in next st] twice, sc in last 2 sts, join. 7.5 [8.5, 9.5, 10.5] inches (16 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, [2 sc in next st] twice, sc in next 6 sts, [2 sc in next st] twice, sc in last 3 sts , join. (20 sc). For size S, continue to foot.
Size M only – Rnd 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in last 5 sts, join. (22 sc). For size M, continue to foot.
Size L, and XL only – Rnd 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 4 sts, [2 sc in next st] twice, sc in next 8 sts, [2 sc in next st] twice, sc in last 4 sts, join. (24 sc). For size L, continue to foot.
Size XL only – Rnd 6: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 6 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in last 6 sts, join. (26 sc).
Foot
Rnds 5 – 15 [6 – 16, 6 – 19, 7 – 22]: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join. (20 [22, 24, 26] sc)
Ankle and Heel
Now begin working in rows instead of rounds.
Rows 16 – 23 [17 – 25, 20 – 29, 23 – 32]: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, do not join. (20 [22, 24, 26] sc)
Row 24 [26, 30, 33]: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 8 [9, 10, 11] sts, sc2tog twice, sc in remaining sts, do not join. (18 [20, 22, 24] sts)
Row 25 [27, 31, 34] (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in next 7 [8, 9, 10]sts, sc2tog twice, sc in remaining sts, do not join. (16 [18, 20, 22] sts)
Finishing:
Front Edging (RS): Do not turn. Working across sides of rows, work 9 [9, 11, 11] sc evenly spaced down front opening to top of foot, sl st at top of foot, work 9 [9, 11, 11] sc evenly spaced back up the other side of the opening. Join with sl st to first st of last row. Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch tail for seaming.
Heel Seam: Fold last row in half so that the stitches line up, and sew seam closed with tail. I recommend using the mattress stitch.
Weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy making this easy crochet slippers pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
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Crochet Sun Hat Pattern with Brim – Summer Glory
Fireworks, gardening, a walk on the beach, or a summer concert – whatever takes you outdoors this summer, bring your own shade along! The Summer Glory crochet sun hat pattern is made with breathable cotton to keep your head cool. It features a built-in sweat band and a wide, wired brim to shade your eyes.
This post contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima
Cascade had originally sent me this yarn for free for my Stars and Stripes Washcloth pattern. I had lots left over, and used it for this crochet sun hat pattern. It’s a luxuriously soft, DK weight, Pima cotton yarn with a lovely shine. Perfect for a hat that gets noticed!
Working with Millinery Wire
This was my first time ever trying something like this, and it turned out to be really easy! I purchased my millinery wire from Kathy Lashley of ELK Studio. You can find it in her etsy shop, along with the joiners that go with it. She has a tutorial for using millinery wire with crochet, which I found super helpful.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Summer Glory Crochet Sun Hat with Brim
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Materials
- Cascade Ultra Pima cotton, DK weight yarn
- 100 yds #3800 Blueberry (blue)
- 100 yds #3728 White
- 60 yds #3713 Wine (red)
- Size H / 5mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- 1.5 yds of white wrapped, 19 gauge millinery wire
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Intermediate: Sc and dc stitches worked in the round, linked dc stitches, working over millinery wire.
Size
Adult – One size fits most
Gauge
Use pattern as gauge swatch – after rnd 7, work should measure about 6 inches in diameter.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
bpdc = back post double crochet
ldc = linked double crochet (see Special Stitch)
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources
Special Stitch – Linked Double Crochet (ldc):
2nd st of round (ch-3 counts as first st): Insert hook into 2nd ch of the starting ch-3 and pull up a loop. Insert hook into next st and pull up a loop. (Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook) twice.
Remaining sts: Insert hook into diagonal bar of previous st and pull up a loop. Insert hook into next st and pull up a loop. (Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook) twice.
Instructions
Crown
Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a dc throughout. Join with a sl st into the first st unless otherwise specified.
Row 1: With blue, ch 4, 11 dc in 4th ch from hook, join. (12 dc)
Row 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, join. (24 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 3, (2 dc in next st, dc in next st) around to last st, 2 dc in last st, join. (36 dc)
Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts) around, join. (48 dc)
Rnd 5: Ch 3, dc in next st, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts) around to last 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in last st, join. (60 dc)
Rnd 6: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 4 sts, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts) around, join. (72 dc)
Rnd 7: Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts) around to last 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in last 2 sts, join. (84 dc)
Work should now measure approximately 6 inches in diameter.
Rnds 8-13: Ch 3, dc in next st and in each st around, join. (84 dc)
Band – back layer
Rnd 14: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), bpdc in each st around, join with sl st to top of ch 2, pull loop up big and/or secure with a stitch marker or scrap of yarn, remove hook. drop free loop and working yarn to front of work. (84 sts)
Rnds 15-16: Join white with a sl st in first st of rnd 14, ch 3,dc in next st and each st around, join, fasten off after last rnd. (84 sts)
Band – front layer:
Rnd 14: Place blue working loop back on hook. Working into the tops of stitches from rnd 13, dc in next st and in each st around, join, changing to white. (84 sts)
Rnds 15-16: Ch 3, turn, ldc in next st and each st around, join, changing to red at the end of last rnd. (84 sts)
Brim
Rnd 17: Working through both layers of band, ch 3, turn, dc in next 4 sts, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts) around to last st, 2 dc in last st, join. (98 sts).
Rnd 18: Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts) around to last 4 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in last 3 sts, join, changing to white. (112 sts)
Rnd 19: Ch 3, dc in next 6 sts, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts) around to last st, 2 dc in last st, join. (126 sts)
Rnd 20: Ch 3, dc in next 3 sts, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 8 sts) around to last 5 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in last 4 sts, join, changing to red. (140 sts)
Rnd 21: Ch 3, dc in next 8 sts, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 9 sts) around to last st, 2 dc in last st, join. (154 sts)
Rnd 22: Ch 3, dc in next 4 sts, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 10 sts), around to last 6 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in last 5 sts, join, changing to white. (168 sts)
Rnd 23: Ch 3, dc in next 10 sts, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 11 sts) around to last st, 2 dc in last st, join. (182 sts)
Rnd 24: Ch 3, dc in next 5 sts, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 8 sts) around to last 7 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in last 6 sts, join, changing to red. (196 sts)
Edging / Wire:
Check out this great tutorial from Kathy Lashley for adding the millinery wire!
Lay millinery wire along edge of work.
Rnd 25: Ch 1, working over wire (so it is caught inside your stitch), sc in each st around to last 10 sts. Make sure end of wire sticks out at the start of the round and does not slide down into your work.
Remove thread coating from wire to expose about 1/2 inch of bare wire, and insert the end into the joiner.
Adjust wire inside hat edge to desired shape and stiffness. Trim the other end to desired size, expose about 1/2 inch of bare wire, and insert it into the other end of the joiner. If you don’t have wire cutters, you can break the wire by bending it back and forth a few times with the pliers.
Crimp both ends of joiner shut with pliers.
Rnd 25 (continued): Sc in remaining 10 sts, join, fasten off. (196 sts)
Weave in ends.
I hope you enjoy making this crochet sun hat pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
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Easy Crochet Lace Scarf Pattern – Spice Road
Follow the ancient spice roads across land and sea, to the rich, earthy colors of cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, and turmeric. Indulge your senses in the textures and vibrance of an open air spice market. Spice Road is an easy, crochet scarf pattern that leads you on a journey through color and texture, accented by airy, lace insets. Will you come along with me?
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A unique yarn
In a conference goodie bag a while ago, I got a free skein of It’s a Wrap Rainbow yarn from Red Heart. This is a truly unique yarn in that it is actually 4 separate strands that are not twisted together. It’s a cotton / acrylic blend and works up phenomenally soft and drapey.
Let the yarn do the work
With It’s a Wrap Rainbow, the color changes are all done for you. At each transition, only one of the 4 strands changes to the new color. This creates a lovely ombre effect where each color flows smoothly into the next.
A unique construction
I wanted to put an edging on this scarf, but the changing colors presented a problem. If I got to the end of the scarf and then did an edging, the starting edge would be in a totally different color than the edging row. This would feel too jarring, and ruin the effect of the smooth color transitions.
The only way around this was to start with the edging. I worked the edging first, then rotated the work and started the scarf from the other side of the foundation chain. This way the edging rows match the starting and ending colors, and the flow is not interrupted.
Working into the 3rd loop
The textured sections of this scarf are created by alternating between working normal half double crochet stitches, and working half double crochet stitches into the third loop. The third loop is in the front and just below the front and back loops that we normally work into.
For a more detailed look at working into the third loop of hdc, see this tutorial
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Spice Road
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Materials
- 1 ball of Red Heart It’s a Wrap Rainbow Yarn – #9351 Rainbow (55% acrylic, 45% cotton, 623 yds / 150 g per ball)
- Size 7 / 4.5mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Easy: Basic stitches in a repeating pattern. Working in 3rd loop of half double crochet.
Size
14 inches x 58 inches. Size can be adjusted.
Gauge
Exact gauge isn’t critical. Use pattern as gauge swatch – after row 7, your work should measure about 14 inches x 3.5 inches.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
sp = space
ch sp = chain space
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sk = skip
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources
Instructions
Foundation chain: With A, Ch 64 (multiple of 4)
The edging is worked first, on one side of the foundation chain, then the scarf is worked on the other side. A chain along the side edge makes a smooth transition between the two.
To adjust width, start with more or fewer chains, as long as it is a multiple of 4.
Bottom Edge (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, [sc in next ch, sk next ch, 5 dc (shell) in next ch, sk next ch] across to last 2 chs, sc in each of last 2 chs. (15 shells)
Transition: Ch 1, rotate to work in bottom of foundation chain, sl st in first ch.
Texture section:
Row 1 (RS): Working across bottom of foundation chain, ch 1, hdc in each ch across (63 hdc).
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, [hdc in third loop of next st, hdc in next st] across. (63 hdc)
Rows 3-9: Repeat row 2.
Lace section:
Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a dc throughout.
Row 10 (WS): Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, [sc in next st, ch 5, sk next 3 sts] 15 times, sc in each of last 2 sts. (15 ch-5 sps)
Row 11: Ch 3, turn, sk next st, 5 dc in next ch-5 sp, [ch 2, sk next st, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, sk next st, 5 dc in next ch-5 sp] across to last 2 sts, sk next st, dc in last st.
Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc in first dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sk next 3 dc, [sc in next dc, ch 5, sk next (ch-2 sp, sc, and ch-2 sp), sc in next dc, ch 5, sk next 3 dc] across to last 2 dc, sc in each of last 2 dc. [15 ch-5 sps]
Row 13: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, [hdc in next st, 3 hdc in next ch-5 sp] across to last 2 sts, hdc in each of last 2 sts. (63 hdc)
Texture section:
Rows 14-21: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, [hdc in third loop of next st, hdc in next st] across. (63 hdc)
Remainder of scarf:
Rows 22-165: Repeat rows 10-21 twelve more times.
To adjust length, work more or fewer repeats.
Row 166: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, [hdc in third loop of next st, hdc in next st] across. (63 hdc)
Row 167 (top edging): Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, [sk next st, 5 dc in next st (shell), sk next st, sc in next st] across. (15 shells)
Fasten off, weave in ends.
I hope you enjoy making the Spice Road lace scarf pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
What did you think of this easy crochet lace scarf pattern?
Free Crochet Pattern – Chevron Star Stitch Spa Washcloth
Treat yourself to a spa day with the Chevron Star Stitch Spa Washcloth. Bold chevron stripes and a rich texture make this the perfect washcloth for a relaxing spa experience.
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Show Mom she’s a star!
I designed this washcloth for the 2019 Celebrate Mom Blog Hope and Giveaway hosted by Pattern Paradise.
My mom would always do special things for us kids, but never liked to treat herself to little luxuries of her own. As I got older, I loved to treat her to something special whenever I got the chance. A couple of years ago, we took a vacation together to Florida, and enjoyed a mother-daughter pedicure at a spa there. We both got to indulge a bit together, and it’s one of my fondest memories.
This pretty, textured washcloth would make a perfect addition to a spa gift basket for mom, or anyone else who needs a little pampering.
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton Yarn
The yarn I used for this design was leftover from the 2017 Knitted Kitchen Blog Hop KAL. Lion Brand had sent me this yarn for free for the KAL designs. I like to use this yarn for fancy washcloths. It’s soft and absorbent, but also has a beautiful shine to it.
Learn the Star Stitch
Combining star stitch and chevrons makes this a more complex pattern. If you’ve never done star stitch before, I strongly recommend watching this Star Stitch tutorial first.
That tutorial is actually how this pattern came about in the first place. Rebecca F. watched the tutorial and commented asking if it was possible to make chevrons using the star stitch. So I gave it a try and here we are!
If you ever have any ideas you’d like to see me make, please ask in a comment or on the Scrappy Stitchers Facebook group. I may not get to it right away, but I always enjoy a new challenge.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Chevron Star Stitch Spa Washcloth
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Materials
- Lion Brand 24/7 cotton yarn (I received this yarn for free from Lion Brand)
- 65 yds #143 Lilac (A)
- 55 yds #126 Cafe Au Lait (B)
- Size H / 5mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Advanced: Star stitches, increases, and decreases.
Size
10 inches wide x 11 inches long from point to point. Length can be adjusted as needed.
Gauge
Exact gauge isn’t critical. Use pattern as gauge swatch – after row 7, your work should measure about 10 inches wide x 4 inches long from point to point.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together
sc3tog = single crochet 3 stitches together
hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 stitches together
star = star stitch (see Special Stitches)
beg star = beginning star stitch (see Special Stitches)
dec = star decrease (see Special Stitches)
ch sp = chain space
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
Recommended Resources
- Crochet Star Stitch
- How to Crochet Star Stitch Chevrons
- How to Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog)
- The Single Crochet 3 Together Decrease (sc3tog) from New Stitch a Day
- Alternative hdc2tog (Half Double Crochet 2 Together)
Special Stitches:
Star Stitch (star)
See this Crochet Star Stitch Tutorial for a more detailed look.
Anatomy of a Star – Each star stitch is a cluster of 6 loops. The chain at the end forms the eye, the 6 loops form the legs, and the last chain worked into is the base.
Star Stitch – Working into the previous star, pick up one loop in the eye, one loop in the last leg, and one loop at the base, pick up a loop in each of next 2 chs, yo and draw through all 6 loops on hook, ch 1.
Beginning Star Stitch (beg star)
Working into the previous hdc, yo, pick up one loop in side of hdc stitch, pick up one loop at the base of hdc stitch (the same st the hdc was worked into), pick up a loop in each of next 2 sts, yo and draw through all 6 loops on hook, ch 1.
Star Decrease (dec)
Pick up loop in next st, (yo, pick up loop in next st) twice, yo and draw through all 6 loops on hook.
Instructions
With A, Ch 48 (multiple of 18 + 12)
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc2tog, [sc in next 7 chs, 3 sc in next ch, sc in next 7 chs, sc3tog] twice, sc in next 7 chs, 2 sc in last ch. (47 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first st, [hdc in next st, beg star, star twice, dec, hdc in next st, beg star, star twice, 3 hdc in next st] twice, hdc in next st, beg star, star twice, hdc2tog, hdc in last st. (15 stars)
The sc3tog stitches in row 3 will be worked into the next hdc, the next decrease, and the eye of the next star. See picture below.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, sc2tog over next st and eye of first star, sc in top of same star, *[sc in eye of next star, sc in top of star] twice, sc in each of next 2 hdc, 3 sc in next hdc, sc in next hdc, [sc in eye of next star, sc in top of star] 3 times, sc3tog in next: (hdc, dec, and eye of star), sc in top of same star, repeat from * once more, [sc in eye of next star, sc in top of star] twice, sc in each of next 2 hdc, 2 sc in last hdc, changing to B in last st. (47 sts)
Carry unused colors up along sides of rows. Any unsightly floats can be covered when you do the edging. Adjust the length as desired by working more or fewer repeats. End after a repeat of row 3.
Rows 4-5: Repeat rows 2-3 with B, changing to A in last st.
Rows 6-23: Repeat rows 2-5 four times, then repeat rows 2-3 once more.
Edging:
When working across side edges, work over any loose / carried threads to hide them.
- Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, [sc in next 7 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 7 sts, 3 sc in next st] twice, sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog, sc in last st. (47 sts)
- Ch 1, working in sides of rows, sc in each row across. (23 sts)
- Ch 1, working in bottom of foundation chain, sc in first st, sc2tog, [sc in next 7 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts, sc3tog] twice, sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in last st. (47 sts)
- Ch 1, working in sides of rows, sc in each row across, join with sl st to first stitch of edging round, fasten off. (23 sts).
Weave in all ends. Wash and block for best results.
I hope you enjoy making this Chevron Star Stitch Spa Washcloth. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Crochet Pattern – Simply Scrappy Water Bottle Holder
It may not feel like it, with the recent storms and cold weather in some parts, but summer is on it’s way! Staying hydrated is fun with this quick and scrappy water bottle holder.
This post contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Scrap Busting
These crochet water bottle holders stretch to fit a variety of bottles, and are a great way to use up small bits of scrap yarn. I used some leftovers from a package of Lion Brand BonBons in color #610 Brights. The color changes are pretty random – I mostly just changed colors whenever I ran out.
Gearing up for Conference Season
Summer is the season of crafty conferences. If you include one gaming conference, I have 4 separate conferences to go to this summer. I made this water bottle holder last summer, for a gaming conference called GenCon. One of the most important things at any event is staying hydrated. Water can sometimes be hard to come by, so carrying a reusable water bottle is usually a good idea. Having a strap to carry it with leaves my hands free for more gaming, crafting, and shopping!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Simply Scrappy Water Bottle Holder
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Materials
- 70 yds DK weight yarn
- Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Easy: Basic stitches, worked in the round. 1 round of front post single crochet.
Size
Bottom is about 3 inches diameter. Height can be adjusted.
Gauge
Exact gauge isn’t critical. Use pattern as gauge swatch – bottom circle should be about 3 inches in diameter, or size needed to fit your water bottle.
The gauge can be adjusted as needed, but if you’re making it much bigger or much smaller, you may want to use a bigger or smaller yarn as well.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
fpsc = front post single crochet
dc = double crochet
ch sp = chain space
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
rnd = round
Recommended Resources
Instructions
Join rounds when indicated by making a sl st into the first st of the round. Change colors any time, as desired.
Bottom Circle
Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join.(6 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in each st, join. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn , 2 sc in first st, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 5 times, sc in last st, join. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, turn , sc in first 2 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) 5 times, 2 sc in last st, join. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, turn , 2 sc in first st, (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) 5 times, sc in last 3 sts, join. (30 sc)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, turn , sc in first 2 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts) 5 times, 2 sc in next st, sc in last 2 sts, join. (36 sc)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, turn , fpsc in each st around. (36 sts)
Body:
Ch 3 at the start of a round counts as a dc throughout. Join rounds when indicated by making a sl st into the top of the ch-3.
Rnd 8: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, (dc in next 2 sts, ch 1, sk next st) around, join. (24 dc, 12 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 9: Turn, sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, ch 1, sk next 2 dc, (2 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next 2 dc) around, join. (24 dc, 12 ch-1 sps).
Repeat last rnd 11 times more, or until work measures about 6 inches tall or desired height. Remember that it will stretch considerably from the weight of a full water bottle. Do not fasten off.
Strap
Remember again that the strap will stretch with weight. The strap length can also be shortened by tying a knot in it.
Row 1: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 150 or to desired length, sk next 12 sts and 5 ch-1 sps, sc in next ch-1 sp.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in back bump of each ch across, sl st in same sp as beginning of strap.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy making this water bottle holder. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Crochet Necklace Pattern – Fearless
Make a statement with this bold, chunky crochet necklace! Crochet meets exposed wood to form striking lines, punctuated by a more delicate flower motif.
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Woodpeckers Crafts
I met the folks from Woodpeckers Crafts at a conference earlier this year, and they really couldn’t be nicer! They have an extensive catalog of all different wood products, and we discussed several ideas for combining them with yarn. This necklace was one of those ideas, and they sent me the wood rings for free to make it.
Originally I had been thinking of crocheting all the way around the wood circles. But the wood was so smooth and even, it seemed like a shame to cover it up.
Finishing the wood
The wood pieces come unfinished, and Andee at Mama’s 2 Hands suggested I might want to finish or seal them. Now I am by no means a woodworker, but the folks at my local hardware store helped me choose this tung oil finish. It brightened up the wood beautifully, and added a bit of a shine. It was easy to apply too! The smell was strong though, so I was glad to be in a well ventilated area.
Lion Brand BonBons yarn
I chose to work with some BonBons yarn from my stash. Lion Brand had originally sent me this yarn for a different project, but I had only needed a few of the colors. This Sparkling Peach color was the one of the leftovers. It’s amazing how much yarn there is in each little skein!
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Fearless
Add this to your Ravelry Queue
Materials
- Wood toss-rings, available at Woodpeckers Crafts
- 3 – 2.25 inch rings (large ring)
- 8 – 1.5 inch rings (small ring)
- 25 yds Lion Brands BonBons – Sparkling Peach from #660 Celebrate
- Size F / 3.75 mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
- Size D / 3.25 mm crochet hook or 0.5 mm smaller than larger hook size.
- Tapestry Needle
- Necklace clasp (optional)
- Wood finish (optional)
Project Level
Intermediate: The actual stitches are easy, but the small size and working around the rings makes them a little more challenging.
Size
Inside (crochet part) of necklace is about 27 inches in circumference. Center ring and drop adds about 6 inches in length.
Gauge
Exact gauge isn’t critical. Use pattern as gauge swatch: the 20 sc worked into the first ring should be able to cover half the ring without puckering or gaps.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
rnd = round
Instructions
Finish or stain wood if desired, following instructions on product label. Ensure wood is completely dry before using.
To adjust necklace length, start and end row 1 with more or fewer chains. Work 1 more chain at the end than at the beginning (for turning chain).
Necklace
Row 1:
With larger hook, ch 35
- Ring 1: 20 sc around a small ring. Slide stitches together so they cover half the ring.
- Ring 2: 20 sc around next small ring. Slide stitches together so they cover half the ring.
- Ring 3: 30 sc around large ring. Slide stitches together so they cover half the ring.
- Ring 4: 20 sc around next small ring. Slide stitches together so they cover half the ring.
- Ring 5 (center): 10 sc around next large ring. Slide stitches together snuggly, they will only cover a small portion of the ring.
- Ring 6: 20 sc around next small ring. Slide stitches together so they cover half the ring.
- Ring 7: 30 sc around large ring. Slide stitches together so they cover half the ring.
- Rings 8 & 9: 20 sc around next small ring. Slide stitches together so they cover half the ring.
- Ch 36, do not fasten off.
Row 2:
- With smaller hook, turn, sl st in each ch to first ring.
- Ring 1: Sl st in first st, (ch-1, sl st) in next 18 sts, sk last st
- Rings 2-8: Sk first st, sl st in next st, (ch-1, sl st) in each st across to last st, sk last st
- Ring 9: Sk first st, sl st in next st, (ch-1, sl st) in each st across
- Sl st in each ch across, fasten off.
Use necklace tails to sew the two chain ends together, OR attach your choice of clasp to the chain ends. Weave in ends.
You can stop here if you like, or continue to add the drop.
Drop:
Place a loop or slip knot on larger hook.
Round 1: 40 sc around a separate small ring, join with sl st to first st.
Round 2:
- Do not turn. With larger hook, ch 1, sl st in next st, [ch 1, sl st in next st, ch 10, remove working loop from hook, pull working loop through center ring of necklace and place back on hook, sl st in same st] twice, ch 1, sl st in next st. (2 connecting loops)
- [Ch 1, sl st in next st, (hdc, 2 dc) in next st, (2 dc, hdc) in next st, sl st in next st] 4 times. (4 petals)
- Ch 1, sl st in next st, [ch 1, sl st in next st, ch 8, remove working loop from hook, pull working loop through a new small ring, place back on hook, sl st in same st] twice, ch 1, sl st in next st. (2 connecting loops)
- [Ch 1, sl st in next st, (hdc, 2 dc) in next st, (2 dc, hdc) in next st, sl st in next st] 4 times. Fasten off. (4 petals)
Weave in all remaining ends.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!