Free Crochet Patterns
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Crochet Ruana Pattern – Chevron Stripes
Wrap yourself in warmth with the fast and easy, Chevron Stripes Ruana! Through Spring and Fall, and even milder winter days, this crochet ruana will keep you cozy in style.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Make It for Me Crochet Along
The Chevron Stripes Ruana was designed for the Make It for Me Crochet Along hosted by ELK Studio.
I tend to run warm. So much so that I rarely wear my winter coat until temps dip well below freezing. This year, the cold weather has been slow in coming, and I wanted something a little lighter to wear. With a rectangular shape and easy, repeating pattern, this crochet ruana worked up remarkably quickly, and I’ll be wearing it for the rest of the season!
What exactly is a ruana?
A ruana is a type of poncho. It’s basically a large rectangle with a slit that goes halfway up. It can be work as shown in the pictures, or you can throw one of the front panels over your shoulder.
Working into the 3rd loop
The striping pattern of this ruana has a slightly raised texture, created by working into the third loop of half double crochet stitches. Because we are working in rows, the third loop is in the front and just below the front and back loops that we normally work into.
For a more detailed look at working into the third loop of hdc, see this tutorial
Materials
- Yarn: Paintbox Simply Aran yarn (100% acrylic, worsted weight)
- 1500 yds #207 Vanilla Cream (A)
- 190 yds #229 Grass Green (B)
- Hook: Size I/9 5.5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Stitch Marker
- Yarn Needle
Project Level
Easy: Increases, decreases, working into 3rd loop.
Size
40 x 61 inches. Length is measured along either straight, side edge – not point to point.
Gauge
11 hdc x 7.5 rows = 4 inches. Each complete chevron is 4 inches wide.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
dec = decrease (see Special Stitch)
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
yo = yarn over
RS = Right Side
WS = Wrong Side
Recommended Resources
- Long Starting Chains – Crochet Tips and Tricks
- Working into the 3rd Loop of Half Double Crochet
- Edging – Working Evenly Across/Around
Special Stitch
Decrease (dec): [Yo, insert hook in next st, yo and pull up a loop], sk next st or ch, repeat [ ], yo and pull through all 5 loops on hook.
This is a double decrease, worked over 3 stitches. It’s basically a hdc2tog with a skipped stitch in the middle. This results in a less bulky decrease than an hdc3tog would be.
Instructions
Back
With A, ch 143
Bottom
Row 1 (WS): 2 hdc in third ch from hook, hdc in next 5 chs, dec, hdc in next 5 chs, [3 hdc in next ch, hdc in next 5 chs, dec, hdc in next 5 chs] 9 times, 2 hdc in last ch. (141 sts)
Row 2: Ch 2, turn, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next 5 sts, dec, hdc in next 5 sts, [3 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts, dec, hdc in next 5 sts] 9 times, 2 hdc in last st. (141 sts)
Rows 3-4: Repeat row 2 twice, changing to B at end of row 4.
We will be adding an edging, so it’s ok to carry unused colors up the side edge for the striped sections. However, it will look better if you cut the yarn after every stripe instead.
Stripes
Row 5: With B, and working in 3rd loops only, repeat row 2.
Row 6: Repeat row 2, changing to A at end of row.
Row 7: With A, and working in 3rd loops only, repeat row 2.
Row 8: Repeat row 2, changing to B at end of row.
Rows 9-15: Repeat rows 5-8, then repeat rows 5-7 once more.
Main section
Rows 16 – 54: Repeat row 2.
Work should now measure about 40″ x 29″
Left Front
Slip stitches are not included in the stitch counts at the end of the row.
Shoulder
Row 1 (WS): Ch 2, turn, 2 hdc in first st, [hdc in next 5 sts, dec, hdc in next 5 sts, 3 hdc in next st] 4 times, hdc in next 5 sts, dec, hdc in next 4 sts, sl st in next st, leaving remaining sts unworked. Place marker in next st (center of back). (68 sts)
Row 2: Ch 2, turn, sk sl st, sk first hdc, hdc in next 2 sts, dec, hdc in next 5 sts, [3 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts, dec, hdc in next 5 sts] 4 times, 2 hdc in last st. (66 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2, turn, 2 hdc in first st, [hdc in next 5 sts, dec, hdc in next 5 sts, 3 hdc in next st] 4 times, hdc in next 5 sts, sk next st, hdc in next 2 sts. (65 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, turn, hdc in first 2 sts, sk next st, hdc in next 5 sts, [3 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts, dec, hdc in next 5 sts] 4 times, 2 hdc in last st. (65 sts)
Rows 5-6: Repeat rows 3-4 once more.
Main section
Rows 7-46: Repeat rows 3-4 20 times. Change to B at end of row 44.
Stripes
Row 47: With B, repeat row 3.
Row 48: Working in third loops only, repeat row 4. Change to A at end of row.
Row 49: With A, repeat row 3
Row 50: Working in third loops only, repeat row 4. Change to B at end of row.
Rows 51-57: Repeat rows 47-50, then repeat rows 47-49 once more.
Row 58: Working in third loops only, repeat row 4.
Bottom
Rows 59-60: Repeat rows 3-4.
Fasten off.
Right Front
With WS facing, and continuing with the unworked sts from row 54 of back, sk marked st, join A with sl st in next st.
Shoulder
Row 1 (WS): Ch 2, sk the st you joined in, hdc in next 4 sts, dec, hdc in next 5 sts, [3 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts, dec, hdc in next 5 sts] 4 times, 2 hdc in last st. (68 sts)
Row 2: Ch 2, turn, 2 hdc in first st, [hdc in next 5 sts, dec, hdc in next 5 sts, 3 hdc in next st] 4 times, hdc in next 5 sts, dec, hdc in next 2 sts, sl st in next st, leave last st unworked. (66 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2, turn, hdc in first 2 hdc, sk next st, hdc in next 5 sts, [3 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts, dec, hdc in next 5 sts] 4 times, 2 hdc in last st. (65 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, turn, 2 hdc in first st, [hdc in next 5 sts, dec, hdc in next 5 sts, 3 hdc in next st] 4 times, hdc in next 5 sts, sk next st, hdc in next 2 sts. (65 sts)
Rows 5-6: Repeat rows 3-4 once more.
Main section
Rows 7-46: Repeat rows 3-4 20 times. Change to B at end of row 44.
Stripes
Row 47: With B, repeat row 3.
Row 48: Working in third loops only, repeat row 4. Change to A at end of row.
Row 49: With A, repeat row 3
Row 50: Working in third loops only, repeat row 4. Change to B at end of row.
Rows 51-57: Repeat rows 47-50, then repeat rows 47-49 once more.
Row 58: Working in third loops only, repeat row 4.
Bottom
Rows 59-60: Repeat rows 3-4. Do not fasten off.
Edging
The edging is worked as one continuous, RS round, and has a total of 794 sts. When working into sides of rows, the stitch counts are equal to working 3 stitches into every 2 rows.
Right front bottom edge: Ch 2, turn, hdc in first 2 hdc, sk next st, hdc in next 5 sts, [3 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts, dec, hdc in next 5 sts] 4 times, 2 hdc in last st. (65 sts)
Front opening: Working in sides of rows: 90 hdc evenly spaced to marked st, hdc in marked st, 90 hdc evenly spaced to bottom of left front. (181 sts)
Left front bottom edge: 2 hdc in first st, [hdc in next 5 sts, dec, hdc in next 5 sts, 3 hdc in next st] 4 times, hdc in next 5 sts, sk next st, hdc in next 2 sts. (65 sts)
Left edge: Work 171 hdc evenly spaced to bottom of back. (171 sts)
Back bottom edge: Ch 2, turn, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next 5 sts, dec, hdc in next 5 sts, [3 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts, dec, hdc in next 5 sts] 9 times, 2 hdc in last st. (141 sts)
Right edge: Work 171 hdc evenly spaced to start of edging rnd, join with sl st to first st, fasten off. (171 sts)
Rate this Crochet Ruana Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this Crochet Ruana pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Crochet Cowl Pattern – Snowbird
Don’t let colder weather ruffle your feathers! Stay warm with the Snowbird cowl. This easy, crochet cowl pattern has a feather-like texture, and is great for using up scraps. Made in a lightweight, wool yarn, it will keep you warm all season without a lot of bulk. The pattern includes instructions for adjusting the size. This means if lightweight is not your style, you can make it in any size yarn you prefer!
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Winter visitors
Winter brings dark-eyed juncos down from Canada and into Illinois. These little snowbirds wear shades of grey and brown, and ruffle up their feathers for warmth. They stay around all season long, before heading back north in the spring.
Scrappy Stitchers Stash Bash Crochet Along
The Snowbird Cowl is the first pattern in the 2020 Stash Bash Crochet Along. Each month, we will have a new, stash-busting pattern, and a giveaway prize too! See the giveaway details below, and join in the fun on the Scrappy Stitchers Facebook group. Remember to use the hashtag #ScrappyStitchersStashBash when you post about the CAL.
My stash yarns
For the edges of the cowl, I used some yarn that was leftover from my Printer’s Row Mitts. In the middle, I used the some small yarn samples that I picked up at conferences.
I believe the Berroco Pixel was color #2236 Clove. The sample I got shifted in color from a purplish grey to a rusty orange. The colors weren’t listed on the Ancient Arts samples, but they have a wide array of colors available in both bases.
The striping pattern I used is:
- Scheepjes Merino Soft #605 Hogarth – 1 round
- Scheepjes Merino Soft #603 Michelangelo – 3 rounds
- Ancient Arts Superwash Merino DK – 1 round
- Berroco Pixel (superwash merino) – 5 rounds
- Ancient Arts Nettle Soft DK (superwash merino / nettle blend) – 1 round
- Scheepjes Merino Soft #603 Michelangelo – 3 rounds
- Scheepjes Merino Soft #605 Hogarth – 1 round
Unicorn Clean
Our first prize sponsor is Unicorn Clean. Their fabulous fiber wash products are what I use to wash every single project I make! I’ve also met the owners of this family business, and they couldn’t be more delightful.
Check out my reviews of the original Unicorn Fiber line and the newer, Unicorn Baby line. The original line is my favorite, with a light lavender scent, while the baby line is unscented.
Enter the giveaway
Try these fabulous cleaning products for yourself! Enter the giveaway for a chance to win a 4 oz set. The winner can choose between the classic Unicorn Fiber set, or the unscented Unicorn Baby set.
To be eligible, you must be 18 years of age or older, with a valid, US shipping address. The winner will be contacted by email, and must reply to that email and provide their selections and shipping address within 1 week in order to receive the prizes. If the winner does not reply within 1 week, a new winner will be selected. The giveaway ends on January 31st, 2020 (at 11:59pm, central time). Hurry and enter below!
This giveaway is powered by Rafflecopter, and they may ask for some log-in information if you are not already logged in. See the Rafflecopter privacy policy for more information.
a Rafflecopter giveaway
Materials
- Yarn: 175 yds DK weight yarn
- Hook: Size G / 4 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions: Yarn Needle
Project Level
Easy: Repeating stitch pattern worked in the round.
Size
12 x 7 inches when flat. (24 inches circumference).
Gauge
18 dc x 9 rows = 4 inches. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
fhdc = foundation half double crochet (optional)
dc = double crochet
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
rnd = round
Recommended Resources
Instructions
Entire pattern is worked on the right side of the fabric. Do not turn your work. To adjust the width of the cowl, start with more or fewer chains. Be sure you have a multiple of 5 plus 2.
Chain 127 (multiple of 5 + 2)
Rnd 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across, join with sl st to first st to form a round, being careful not to twist your work. (125 hdc)
OR Alternate Rnd 1: Do not make a starting chain, instead work 125 fhdc.
Rnd 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), 2 dc in same st, sk next 4 sts, [(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next st, sk next 4 sts] around, dc in same st as beginning, join with sl st to first st (3rd ch of starting ch 4). (100 dc, 25 ch-1 sps)
Rnds 3-14: Sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), 2 dc in same sp, sk next 4 sts, [(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-1 sp, sk next 4 sts] around, dc in same sp as beginning, join with sl st to first st. (100 dc, 25 ch-1 sps)
To change the width of the cowl, work more or fewer rounds in this section.
Rnd 15: Ch 2, hdc in each st and ch-1 sp around. (125 hdc)
Fasten off
Weave in all ends.
Rate this Crochet Cowl Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this crochet cowl pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Mini Crochet Christmas Wreath with Jingle Bells
Welcome guests with a jingle when you hang this mini crochet Christmas wreath on your door! Hang one on your tree, or cabinet doors too. You can even add them to your gift wrapping for an extra festive touch!
This easy wreath pattern is a great way to use up scraps from other holiday projects. You can also use beads or buttons instead of the smaller bells.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Jingle Bells
Jingle bells (or cross style bells) come in a wide variety of sizes and colors, and are such a fun crafting item. I made my wreath entirely from my stash, including the gold bells.
The larger bell I used is about 1.5 inches or 36 mm, and the smaller ones are about 3/8 inch or 10 mm.
Here are some fun jingle bells available on Etsy:
- Large bells
- Small bells
And here are some choices from Amazon
- Large bells
- Small bells
The exact sizes aren’t critical for the design, so feel free to be creative. Try using a different style of bells, or use buttons or beads in place of the smaller bells. You can even leave the larger bell off entirely if you prefer.
Choosing a center ring
The center of the wreath is a 2 1/4 inch ring. There are lots of options available at most craft stores in metal, plastic, and wood. If your ring is just a little larger or smaller, that’s ok. As long as the stitches from round 1 cover it completely.
For my wreath, I used a wood toss ring from Woodpecker Crafts. They had originally sent me some wood rings for free to make my Fearless necklace pattern, and I have a few left over.
I like the thickness of the ring for this project because it gives the center a fuller, fluffier appearance. If you use a thinner ring, you will end up with a more open center.
Materials
- Yarn: Worsted weight yarn
- 25 yds green
- 10 yds white
- 5 yds red
- Hook: Size H/8 5mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Wood ring (2.25 inches / 57 cm)
- 6 small bells (3/8 inch / 9 mm)
- 1 large bell (1.5 in / 38 mm)
- Yarn Needle
Project Level
Intermediate: Working in the round, working around a ring, modified crab stitch / reverse single crochet
Size
About 4.5 inches in diameter, not counting large bell.
Gauge
12 sc x 14 rows = 4 inches. Gauge is not critical as long as center ring is fully covered.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
Recommended Resources
Instructions
The entire pattern is worked on the right side of the work. Do not turn your work unless indicated.
Wreath
With green, make a sl st around the wood ring
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 24 sc into wood ring, join with sl st to first st. (24 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off green. (48 dc)
Weave in green tails.
Edging:
Note the ch 1 between each sc in the edging. This is important to keep the edge from being too tight.
Join white with sl st in any st, leaving a 4 inch tail.
Edging Rnd: Working in the opposite direction (as for reverse sc or crab stitch), (ch 1, sc) in each st around. Do not join. (48 reverse sc)
Fasten off white, leaving an 8 inch tail. Sew this tail through the first stitch, from front to back, to join the round.
Hanging loop
Sew the same white tail back again through the same stitch, front from to back, creating a loop of desired size for hanging. Both the starting and ending tails should now be at the back of the work.
Tie the starting and ending tails together in a firm knot at the back of the work, holding the hanging loop in place.
Tie the loop in a knot at the bottom as well.
Weave in white tails.
Small bells
Cut a 24-36 inch length of red yarn and thread it onto the tapestry needle.
Find the bottom center of Round 1, directly opposite the hanging loop. There should be 12 stitches on each side. Insert needle from front to back through the stitch just to the right of center and pull it through leaving a 6 inch tail.
*Bring the needle up from back to front in the next st to the right.
Thread a small bell onto the needle
Bring the needle down from front to back in the next st
Bring the needle up in the next st,** and down in the next st.
Repeat from * until all 6 bells have been placed, ending at ** on the last repeat.
You should now have both ends of the red yarn in the front, one on either side of the center. Both tails should be at least 6 inches long.
Large bell
Cut a 36 inch length of red yarn and fold it in half. Make a slip knot where it is folded, so that both ends are roughly the same length.
Pull the slip knot through the bell and place it on the hook
Working with both tails held together, chain 9, fasten off.
Separate the tails. Pull 1 tail through each side of the center at the bottom of the wreath, from back to front, in the same spaces as the other red tails. You should now have 2 red tails coming out of each side of the center.
Holding each pair of tails together, tie a bow. If desired, add a dot of glue at the center for a more permanent finish. Trim ends.
Rate this Mini Crochet Christmas Wreath Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this Crochet Leg Warmer pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Crochet Leg Warmers – Peppermint Candy
Make crochet leg warmers that really fit! All-over stretch, combined with mix and match size and shape options make these leg warmers truly customizable.
Make your leg warmers shorter for a smoother finish, or longer for a more slouchy look. They’re great for gifting too. Find your perfect fit today!
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Holiday Stashdown Crochet Along
This pattern was designed for the 2019 Holiday Stashdown Crochet-along on CAL Central. Check out the main Holiday Stashdown CAL post for information on how to join in the fun, enter the giveaway, and see all the other great patterns and prizes!
We have some fantastic prize sponsors this year, so please show them some love by visiting their stores for your holiday shopping. We couldn’t have these great giveaways without their support!
When you post about your projects, please use these tags so we can all see them: #HolidayStashdownCAL #CALCentralCrochet
Crochet leg warmers that really fit!
Everyone’s legs are a different size and shape. In my case, for example, I have very wide calves. Most leg warmers that are comfortable on my calves are too baggy at the ankle. If they fit at the ankle, I can’t pull them all the way up.
With this pattern, you can choose an ankle size that fits you, and then decide on the shape of the leg that you want. Do you have narrower legs, or plan to wear them slouched around the ankle? Maybe a straight leg is a good choice. Want to pull them all the way up comfortably? Try tapered or curvy. Whatever your size and style, there’s a combination to fit.
Yarn and colors
I dug into my stash for this project, and came up with some Paintbox Simply Aran yarn. The Vanilla Cream and Pillar Red were perfect peppermint candy colors!
Working into the 3rd loop
The texture of these crochet legwarmers is created by alternating between normal half double crochet stitches, and half double crochet stitches worked into the third loop. Because we are turning our work with every round, the third loop is in the front, and just below the front and back loops that we normally work into.
For a more detailed look at working into the third loop of hdc, see this tutorial
Materials
- Yarn: Worsted weight yarn
- 125-175 yds red
- 75-125 yds cream
- Hook: Size H/8 5mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions: Yarn Needle
Project Level
Intermediate: Working in the round, working in third loops only, and front and back post stitches.
Size
Instructions for additional sizes are indicated in [ ]. Choose a size for the ankle and a size for the calf.
Ankle size: XS [S/M, L/XL] fits ankle measurement of 7-8 [8-10, 10-12] inches
Leg shape: Straight [Tapered, Wide].
- Straight: Calf is about the same size as ankle – no shaping.
- Tapered: Calf is about 1.25 times the width of the ankle.
- Wide: Calf is about 1.5 times the width of the ankle.
Gauge
13 hdc x 12 rows = 4 inches.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
fphdc = front post half double crochet
bphdc = back post half double crochet
tlo = third loop only
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
Stitch Multiples
For those of you who like to modify designs, here are the multiples to keep in mind.
- The cuff should be a multiple of 2 rows (4 makes the leg work out more easily)
- Rnd 1 of the of the leg should be an even number of stitches. If you need to add an extra increase to make it even, that’s fine.
Instructions
Cuff
With red, ch 8
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across. (7 sts)
Rows 2 – 20, [24, 28]: Ch 1, turn, sc in back loop only of each st across.
Check that cuff fits comfortably around your ankle. If it does not, you may want to change to a different size or a different hook.
Joining (WS): Fold cuff so that short ends meet, with right sides together. Working through both layers, sl st in each st across.
Leg:
Rnd 1 (WS) : Working in sides of rows on cuff, choose one option below
- Straight: Ch 1, hdc in each row around, join with sl st to first st, changing to cream. (20 [24, 28] sts)
- Tapered – Sizes XS and L/XL only: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each of first 2 rows, hdc in next 2 rows, (2 hdc in next row, hdc in next 3 rows) around, join with sl st to first st, changing to cream. (26 [36] sts)
- Tapered – Size S/M only: Ch 1, 2 hdc in first row, hdc in next 3 rows, (2 hdc in next row, hdc in next 3 rows) around, join with sl st to first st, changing to cream. (30 sts)
- Wide: Ch 1, 2 hdc in first row, hdc in next row (2 hdc in next row, hdc in next row) around, join with sl st to first st, changing to cream. (30 [36, 42] sts)
Rnds 2-3: With cream, ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, hdc in tlo of next st, (hdc in next st, hdc in tlo of next st) around, join with sl st to first st. Change to red at end of Rnd 3.
Because we are turning our work, the third loop of the hdc will be at the front. See this tutorial for more details.
Rnds 4-5: With red, repeat rnds 2-3, changing to cream at end of Rnd 5.
Rnds 6-7: Repeat rnds 2-3.
Repeat rnds 4-7 to desired length, then repeat rnd 4 once more.
Top ribbing will add about 1 more inch
Top Ribbing
Rnds 1-3 (RS): Ch 1, do NOT turn, bphdc around first st, fphdc around next st, (bphdc around next st, fphdc around next st) around.
Fasten off, weave in all ends.
Repeat instructions for 2nd leg warmer.
Rate this Crochet Leg Warmers Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this Crochet Leg Warmer pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Small Crochet Bag Pattern – Textured Treat Bag
This small crochet bag is big on style! Contrasting accents, rich texture, and a folded cuff add a unique, personal touch to your gift giving any time of year. Use this textured treat bag for candy, gift cards, or other small items.
Mini-Mystery Crochet Along
This pattern was originally released in 3 parts, as a mini crochet along in collaboration with Jennifer of A Crocheted Simplicity. She does a series of these Mini-Mystery Crochet Alongs, and this was my first time participating. It was a lot of fun! Be sure to check out her MMCAL info page for more information on how they work, and how you can join in next time.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Yarn Selection
This small crochet bag is pretty flexible as far as yarn choice goes. It will work with acrylic, cotton, wool, or other fibers. You may want to choose a yarn that won’t sag too much if a little weight is put on it, but other than that, anything goes! You can even use a different size of yarn, though it will affect your finished dimensions and the amount of yarn needed.
I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice yarn. Lion Brand originally sent me this yarn for free for another design, and I have quite a bit left over. The Brick color (#133) is a warm red that I love for this time of year. Paired with Beige (#123), it works equally well for both fall and winter holidays.
Working into the 3rd loop
The textured first section of this small crochet bag is created by alternating between normal half double crochet stitches, and half double crochet stitches worked into the third loop. The third loop is in the back, and just below the front and back loops that we normally work into.
For a more detailed look at working into the third loop of hdc, see this tutorial
Textured Treat Bag
Add this to your Ravelry queue
Materials
- Yarn: Worsted weight yarn
- 60 yds main color (A)
- 10 yds accent color (B)
- Hook: Size H/8 5mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Several stitch markers, or a scrap of yarn to use as a running stitch marker (optional)
Project Level
Intermediate: Working in the round and in rows, working in third loops only, and crab stitch or twisted single crochet.
Size
4 x 6 inches
Gauge
12 hdc x 9 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch. At the end of rnd 15, your work should measure approximately 4 inches wide x 5.25 inches tall. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
tlo = third loop only
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sk = skip
sp = space
ch sp = chain space
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources
- Working into the third loop of half double crochet
- Why Continuous Rounds Shift
- Continuous Rounds and Running Stitch Markers
- Crab Stitch and Twisted Single Crochet
Special Stitch
Twisted single crochet: Insert hook into next st and draw up a loop, as for a normal single crochet. Twist hook counterclockwise, so that the two loops on your hook twist around each other. Finally, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook. See this tutorial for a more in depth look at this stitch.
Instructions
Bag
This main portion of the bag is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark the first stitch of each round.
With A, ch 16
Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each remaining ch across, rotate to work in bottom of chains, hdc in each ch across. (30 sts)
Rnds 2 – 15: (Hdc in next st, hdc in tlo of next st) around.
Partial round / adjustment: (Hdc in next st, hdc in tlo of next st) 3 times, sc in next st, sl st in next st.
The partial round adjusts for the natural shift when working in continuous rounds. It should bring you to the side edge of your piece. This adjustment is only done once, at the end of the segment. Your work should now measure approximately 4 inches wide and 5.25 inches tall.
Cuff
Make sure your working loop is at the side edge of your work, as shown above, before starting the cuff. You may find it helpful to mark the ch-1 sps on rnds 16 and 19 with scraps of yarn, as they can be hard to see later.
Rnd 16: Ch 1, sc in first 4 sts, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next 2 sts) around to last 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts, join with sl st to first st. (22 sc, 8 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 17: Ch 1, hdc in each st and ch-1 sp around, join with sl st to first st. (30 hdc)
Rnd 18: Ch 1, (hdc in next st, hdc in tlo of next st) around, join with sl st to first st, sl st in next st. (30 hdc).
For the remainder of the cuff, you will be working on the wrong side.
Rnd 19 (WS): Ch 1, TURN, sc in first st, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next 2 sts) around to last 2 sts, ch 1, sk next st, sc in last st, join with sl st to first st. (20 sc, 10 ch-1 sps)
Rnds 20-21: Do not turn. Repeat rnds 17-18, change to color B and fasten off A at the end of rnd 21.
Edging
Choose one option below. See this tutorial for a more in depth look at these two options
Option 1 – Crab stitch: Ch 1, do not turn, working from left to right (or opposite your normal direction of work), sc in each st around. (30 reverse sc)
or
Option 2 – Twisted sc: Ch 1, do not turn, twisted sc (see Special Stitches) in each st around. (30 twisted sc)
Fasten off, sew tail through beginning of edging round to join.
Weave in all ends.
Drawstring
With B, Ch 80, sl st in back bump of each ch across, fasten off.
Assembly
Fold top of cuff down so that the ch-1 sps from rnds 16 and 19 match up. Rnd 19 has an extra ch-1 sp at the start and end of the round.
Bring drawstring up, from bottom to top, through the first (extra) ch-1 sp on rnd 19.
Now working through both layers, weave drawstring up and down through the ch-1 sps around to the last (extra) ch-1 sp.
Bring drawstring down through the last (extra) ch-1 sp on rnd 19. Adjust drawstring so ends are even.
The two ends of the drawstring should now stick out from between the layers, while the rest goes through both layers. Pull both ends of drawstring to close bag.
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I hope you enjoyed this Textured Treat Bag pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Crochet Chemo Cap – Pearson Hat
Warm up with the squishy, soft texture of the Pearson hat. I originally designed this crochet chemo cap for a cancer awareness project. It features a solid stitch pattern and stretchy, forgiving fit. This makes it perfect for charity projects and gifting too!
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Never Alone
Cancer touches most of our lives in one way or another. In my case, both my parents had cancers of different kinds. My dad passed away several years ago from complications of Leukemia. My mom survived stage 4 breast cancer when I was very young, but lost a new battle with a different cancer last year. Pearson is the name of the street I grew up on, and where they both lived until the end.
Like any serious illness, cancer takes a toll not just on those who have it, but on their families and loved ones as well. A handmade, crochet chemo cap can bring comfort to a cancer patient that goes beyond covering their head. It is a reminder that they are not alone in their fight.
Cancer Awareness Colors
Cancer awareness ribbons come in many colors, each representing a different type of cancer. Rather than choose one type of cancer, I chose lavender because it represents all cancer as a whole.
The Crochet Cancer Challenge
This crochet chemo cap was my design for the Crochet Cancer Challenge, organized by Sweet Potato 3, in 2019. This was my first time participating in this event, in it’s 6th year. A different designer posted a new hat pattern each day through the month of October. During the event, participants could download the pdf for in exchange for a pledge to make at least one hat for a cancer related charity. I will most likely be participating in this same event in 2020, with a new hat design!
Working into the 3rd loop
The texture of this pattern is created with half double crochet stitches worked into the third loop. The third loop is in the back, and just below the front and back loops that we would normally work into.
For a more detailed look at working into the third loop of hdc, see this tutorial
Pattern continues below
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This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Materials:
- Yarn: 150 yds of worsted weight yarn
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
- Notions:
- Stitch marker or scrap of yarn.
Project Level:
Intermediate – Working in the round, increasing in pattern, working into 3rd loop, front and back post stitches.
Size:
Adult, one size fits most.
Gauge:
12 hdc x 9 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch – after rnd 8, work should measure 6.25 inches in diameter.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- tlo = third loop only
- fpsc = front post single crochet
- fphdc = front post half double crochet
- bphdc = back post half double crochet
- inc = increase (see Special Stitch)
- sl st = slip stitch
- sk = skip
- st(s) = stitch(es)
Recommended Resources:
Special Stitch:
Increase (inc): Hdc in indicated st, then hdc in tlo of the same st.
Instructions:
Entire hat is worked in continuous rounds, on right side of work. Do not join or turn. Mark first stitch of each round.
Crown
Rnd 1: Ch 2, 8 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. (8 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (16 sts)
Rnd 3: (Inc in next st, hdc in next st) around. (24 sts)
Rnd 4: (Inc in next st, hdc in next st, hdc in tlo of next st) around. (32 sts).
Rnd 5: (Inc in next st, hdc in next st, hdc in tlo of next st, hdc in next st) around. (40 sts).
Rnd 6: *Inc in next st, (hdc in next st, hdc in tlo of next st) twice, repeat from * around. (48 sts).
Rnd 7: *Inch in next st, hdc in next st, (hdc in tlo of next st, hdc in next st) twice, repeat from * around. (56 sts).
Rnd 8: *Inc in next st, (hdc in next st, hdc in tlo of next st) 3 times, repeat from * around. (64 sts).
Work should now measure approximately 7 inches in diameter.
Main section
Rnd 9: (Hdc in next st, hdc in tlo of next st) around. (64 sts).
Repeat Rnd 9 until work measures 7.5 inches from top of crown, or about 1 inch shorter than desired final length.
Ribbing:
Rnds 1-2: (Fphdc in next st, bphdc in next st) around. (64 sts)
Smoothing edge: Fpsc in next st, sl st in next st, fasten off.
Weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy this pattern! A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Rate this crochet chemo cap pattern!
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Crochet Afghan Block – Supernova Square
Explore the shifting, layered textures of the Supernova Square. A starburst at the center sets this crochet afghan block in motion, radiating outwards into puffs, shells, ridges and more. With such varied textures, this blanket square works equally well with one color or many!
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Moogly 2019Afghan CAL
This pattern was designed for the Moogly 2019 afghan CAL. If this is the first you’ve heard about it, go check it out! Also be sure to take a look at the block 20 post to see how Moogly’s version of this square turned out.
Red Heart With Love Yarn
I originally received this yarn for free from Red Heart for my 2018 Moogly Afghan square. I had plenty left over from that pattern, and I just love how well these colors go together. Red Heart with Love is a softer yarn, and comes in a wide array of colors to choose from. What colors are you using for your blanket?
Working into the 3rd loop
The textured section of this square is created by alternating between normal half double crochet stitches, and half double crochet stitches worked into the third loop. The third loop is in the back, and just below the front and back loops that we normally work into.
For a more detailed look at working into the third loop of hdc, see this tutorial
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Supernova Square
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Materials
- Red Heart With Love yarn:
- 25-30 yds #1207 Cornsilk (A)
- 40-45 yds #1538 Lilac (B)
- 75-85 yds #1601 Lettuce (C)
- Size J / 6 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Project Level
Intermediate: Working in the round, changing colors, puff stitches, working into back / third loops.
Size
12 inches square
Gauge
13 sc x 14 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch. After Rnd 7, your work should measure about 5.5 inches square.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
blo = back loop only
tlo = third loop only
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sk = skip
sp = space
ch sp = chain space
yo = yarn over
Recommended Resources
- Standing Double Crochet on Moogly
- Puff Stitches
- Working into the 3rd loop of Half Double Crochet
- Seamless Finishing When Working in the Round on Moogly
Special Stitches
Puff: (Yo, insert hook into indicated st and draw up a loop) 4 times in same sp, yo and pull through all 9 loops on hook, ch 1.
Corner puff: (Yo, insert hook into indicated st and draw up a loop) 3 times in next ch-1 sp, (Yo, insert hook into indicated st and draw up a loop) 3 times in ch-3 sp below next ch-2 sp, (Yo, insert hook into indicated st and draw up a loop) 3 times in next ch-1 sp, yo and pull through all 19 loops on hook, ch 1.
Fan: Dc in indicated st or sp, (ch 1, dc in same st or sp) 4 times.
Instructions
Entire pattern is worked on the right side. Do not turn your work. Ch 3 at the beginning of a round counts as a dc throughout .
Starburst:
Rnd 1: With A, ch 4, 11 dc in 4th ch from hook, join with sl st in first st. (12 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 5, sk next st, [2 sc in next st, ch 5, sk next st] 5 times, sc in same st as first st, join with sl st in first sc, changing to B. (12 sc, 6 ch-5 loops)
If you tend to chain more tightly and your work starts to pucker in the next row, feel free to make 6 or 7 chains in your loops instead of 5.
Rnd 3: With B and working behind the ch-5 loops from rnd 2, ch 1, sc in first st, 2 dc in skipped st below next loop, [sc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in skipped st below next loop] 5 times, sc in last st, join with sl st to first st, changing to A. (12 sc, 12 dc).
Rnd 4: With A, ch 1, sk first st, [sc in next dc, sc in next ch-5 loop, sc in next dc, ch 5, sk next 2 sc] 6 times, join with sl st in first sc, changing to B. (18 sc, 6 ch-5 loops)
Rnd 5: With B and working behind the ch-5 loops from rnd 4, ch 1, sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, dc in each of 2 skipped sts below next loop, [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, dc in each of 2 skipped sts below next loop] 5 times, join with sl st to blo of first st, changing to A. (24 sc, 12 dc)
Rnd 6: With A, ch 1, sc in blo of first 4 sc, sc in next dc, sc in next ch-5 loop, sc in next dc, [sc in blo of next 4 sc, sc in next dc, sc in next ch-5 loop, sc in next dc] 5 times, join with sl st in first st, changing to B. Fasten off A. (42 sts)
Rnd 7: With B, ch 1, dc in unused front loop of first 4 sts from previous row, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, [dc in unused front loop of next 4 sts from previous row, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 5 times, join with sl st to first st, changing to C. (48 sts)
Puffs:
Rnd 8: With C, Ch 1 sc in first 2 sts, [hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next st, (dc, tr) in next st, ch 3, (tr, dc) in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts] 3 times, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next st, (dc, tr) in next st, ch 3, (tr, dc) in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, join with sl st to first st. (56 sts, 4 ch-3 sps)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in same st, [(ch-1, sk next st, sc in next st) across to next ch-3 sp, (ch 1, sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, [ch 1, sk next st, sc in next st] across to last st, ch-1, sk last st, join with sl st to first st, changing to B. (36 Sc, 36 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 10: With B, ch 2, sk first st, (puff in next ch-1 sp, sk next st) 3 times, ch 4, corner puff, ch 4, sk next st [(puff in next ch-1 sp, sk next st) 6 times, ch 4, corner puff, ch 4, sk next st] 3 times (puff in next ch-1 sp, sk next st) 3 times, join with sl st to starting ch-2, changing to C, fasten off B. (24 puffs, 4 corner puffs)
Texture Stitch:
Rnd 11: With C, ch 1, [(2 hdc in sp between puffs, sk next puff) across to ch-4 sp, 4 hdc in ch-4 sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in corner puff, 4 hdc in ch-4 sp] 4 times, (2 hdc in sp between puffs, sk next puff) across, join with sl st to first st. (72 hdc, 8 dc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 12: Ch 1, hdc in first st, hdc in tlo of next st, [(hdc in next st, hdc in tlo of next st) across to next dc, hdc in next dc, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next ch-2 sp, hdc in next dc] 4 times, (hdc in next st, hdc in tlo of next st) 4 times, join with sl st to first st. (88 hdc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 13: Ch1, hdc in tlo of first st, hdc in next st, [hdc in tlo of next st, hdc in next st] across to next ch-2 sp, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next ch-2 sp] 4 times, hdc in next st, (hdc in tlo of next st, hdc in next st) across, join with sl st to first st, fasten off C. (96 hdc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Fans:
Rnd 14: Join B with sl st in any corner ch-2 sp, [(2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in tlo of each hdc across to next ch-2 sp] 4 times, join with sl st to first st, fasten off B. (112 sc, 4 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 15: Join A with sl st in any corner ch-1 sp, ch 2 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same sp, *[sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, sk next 2 sts, fan in next st] 4 times, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, sk next st, (3dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, repeat from * twice more, [sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, sk next 2 sts, fan in next st] 4 times, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, sk last st, (3 dc, ch 1) in beginning sp, join with sl st to first st, fasten off A. (16 fans)
Rnd 16: Join B with sl st in any corner ch-1 sp, *(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, dc in next sc, [ch 3, sc in center dc of next fan, ch 3, dc in next sc] 4 times, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, repeat from * 3 times more, join with sl st to first st, fasten off B. (40 ch-3 sps, 4 ch-2 sps)
Border:
Rnd 17: Join C with sl st in any corner ch-2 sp, hdc in same sp, skipping all sts, 3 hdc in each ch-3 sp across to next corner ch-2 sp, [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 sp, 3 hdc in each ch-3 sp across to next corner ch-2 sp] 3 times, hdc in beginning ch-2 sp, join with sl st to first st. (124 hdc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 18: Ch 1, [sc in tlo of each st across to next corner ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp] 4 times, join with sl st to first st. (132 Sc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 19: Ch 1, [sc in each st across to next corner ch-2 sp, 3 sc in ch-2 sp] 4 times, sc in last st, join with sl st to first st, fasten off.
Weave in ends.
Wash and block for best results.
I hope you enjoy making this crochet afghan block. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
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How to Crochet a Pumpkin Post Topper
The post at the top of my staircase has a ball shaped cap. Do you have one like that? Learn how to crochet a pumpkin cover for it! This stretchy cover fits over round post tops for a fun, fall decoration.
My husband was the one who came up with the idea for this pattern. We were talking about ideas for fall projects. When I said I already have a pattern for a pumpkin hat, he said I should make one for the staircase post. I think he may have been kidding, but he also wasn’t surprised that I actually did it.
This post contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
A Newel Post Finial?
Here’s a bit of trivia if you didn’t know: these staircase posts are called “newel posts” and the toppers or caps are called “finials.” Don’t have a ball shaped finial? Use this cover on any ball shaped object, or stuff your pumpkin and sew the bottom closed instead!
Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice Yarn
Over the years, Lion Brand has sent me free Vanna’s Choice Yarn to use for various different designs. It’s one of my go-to, worsted weight yarns. It’s soft and easy to work with, and comes in a wide variety of colors. This means I have a large stash of leftover yarn to use up! I made this crochet pumpkin cover with some of those leftover skeins.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Pumpkin Post Topper Pattern
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Materials
- Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice Yarn
- 35 yds Rust (orange)
- 10 yds Taupe Mist (brown)
- 10 yds Olive (green)
- Size H/ 5 mm hook, or size needed to match gauge
- Yarn needle
- A pinch of fiber fill for stem (optional)
Project Level
Intermediate: Working into back loops, working in the round and in rows, some seaming.
Size
Designed to fit a 3.5-inch diameter, ball-shaped newel post finial, but will stretch to fit slightly larger or smaller sizes too.
Gauge
Working in back loops only, 16 dc x 8 rows = 4 inches. Use pumpkin as swatch – after row 4, work should measure 4 inches long x 2 inches wide at widest part. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sk = skip
sp = space
ch sp = chain space
Recommended Resources
Instructions
Pumpkin:
Foundation: With orange, ch 17
Row 1 (WS): Working into back bump of chs, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 chs, hdc in next 3 chs, dc in next 3 chs, hdc in next 3 chs, sc in next 3 chs, sl st in last ch. (15 sts, 1 sl st).
Row 2: Ch 4, turn, sk first sl st, working in back loops only: sc in next 3 sc, hdc in next 3 hdc, dc in next 3 dc, hdc in next 3 hdc, sc in next 3 sc. (15 sts, 1 ch-4 loop)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, working in back loops only: sc in first 3 sc, hdc in next 3 hdc, dc in next 3 dc, hdc in next 3 hdc, sc in next 3 sc, sl st in ch-4 loop from row 2. (15 sts, 1 sl st)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, working in back loops only: sk first sl st, sc in next 3 sc, hdc in next 3 hdc, dc in next 3 dc, hdc in next 3 hdc, sc in next 3 sc. (15 sts)
Rows 5-22: Repeat rows 3-4 nine times more.
If needed, you can work more or fewer repeats of rows 3-4, until your pumpkin fits comfortably around your finial. Just be sure to end after a RS row.
Turn, and line foundation edge up behind current row so that right sides are together, and wrong side is facing out.
Joining Row / Seam: Ch 1, working through both loops of both layers, sk first sl st, (sl st, ch 1) in each st across.
Weave in ends and turn work right-side-out.
Stem:
With brown, and leaving an 8 inch tail, ch 4, join with sl st to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 6 sc in ring, do not join. (6 sc)
Rnds 2-5: Sc in each st around. At the end of rnd 5, sl st in next st, fasten off leaving an 8 inch tail.
Fold rnd 5 so it is flat and sew the stitches together using a whipstitch with the ending tail. Weave in the end and pass it to the inside of the stem.
Stuff stem lightly if desired, then sew to top of pumpkin using the starting tail. Weave in the end.
Vines:
With green, ch 21.
Row 1: 2 sc in each st across, allowing work to curl as you go. Fasten off.
Weave in ends
Leaf:
Row 1 [WS]: With green, ch 2, 8 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Do not join. (8 hdc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 3 dc in first st, (dc, sl st, dc) in next st, (2 dc, sl st) in next st, (sc, hdc, dc) in next st, (dc, hdc, sc) in next st, (sl st, 2 dc) in next st, (dc, sl st, dc) in next st, (3 dc, sl st) in last st. Fasten off, leaving an 8 inch tail.
Finishing:
Fold vine in half and place the mid-point against where stem and pumpkin meet, then place the leaf on top. Using the tail from the leaf, sew the three layers together.
Weave in any remaining ends.
I hope you enjoy this Pumpkin Post Topper pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format offsets the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Easy Crochet Fingerless Mitts – Autumn’s Kiss
Halloween decorations, pumpkins, and trees kissed with hints of orange and brown – all sure signs that Autumn is settling in and cooler weather is on the way. Keep your hands toasty warm this fall with these easy crochet fingerless mitts!
This post contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
CAL Central Halloween Crochet Along
Autumn’s Kiss fingerless mitts were designed for the 2019 Halloween Crochet Along at CAL Central. Join in the fun and crochet along with us on the CAL Central Facebook group.
The patterns we’ve had so far have been fantastic, so be sure to check out the whole list in this intro post too!
An Autumn Yarn
For my mitts, I used some yarn that I spun myself just for the season. The yarn had a little unevenness to it, but averages out to a worsted (medium) weight. Some of it was just orange, and some of it had a strand of sparkly brown thread wrapped up in it. The carry-along thread is Twist from Krenik Yarns, and you can see all the details of the spinning project on my Ravelry handspun project entry.
Choosing Your Yarn
I like the effect that the marled yarn created with the matching solid, but you don’t have to spin your own yarn for this project! Lion Brand Jeans in the Top Stitch colorway would combine beautifully with Vanna’s Choice in Rust to create a similar effect.
This pattern will also work equally well with other color choices. Try two solids for a colorblocked effect, or use one self-striping yarn. They’d be perfectly nice in a single color too. What color or colors will you choose?
Working into the 3rd loop
The texture of these mitts is created by alternating between working normal half double crochet stitches, and working half double crochet stitches into the third loop. The third loop is in the back, and just below the front and back loops that we normally work into.
For a more detailed look at working into the third loop of hdc, see this tutorial
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Autumn’s Kiss Fingerless Mitts
Materials
- Worsted weight yarn:
- 80 [90, 100] yds solid color (A)
- 140 [155, 170] yds multi-color (B)
- Size H / 5 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Size 7 / 4.5 mm hook, or 1 size smaller than the other hook.
- Yarn needle
Project Level
Easy: Working in rounds, post stitches, working into 3rd loop only.
Size
S [M, L]. To fit hand circumference of 7 [8, 9] inches, with a finished length of 7 [8.5, 9.5] inches.
Gauge
14 hdc x 12 rows = 4 inches with larger hook. Use pattern as gauge swatch. Cuff should measure 7 [8, 9] inches in circumference and 1.5 [1.75, 2] inches long.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
fphdc = front post half double crochet
bphdc = back post half double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
sk = skip
tlo = third loop only
st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
ch sp = chain space
Recommended Resources
- Front and Back Post Stitch Crochet from Jessie at Home
- Working into the 3rd Loop of Half Double Crochet
- Continuous Rounds and Running Stitch Markers
Instructions
Entire pattern is worked on the right side. Do not turn at the end of rounds.
Cuff:
With A and smaller hook:
Ch 25 [29, 33] (multiple of 2 plus 1), join with sl st to form a circle.
Rnd 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook, and in each ch across, join with sl st to first st. (24 [28, 32] sts)
Optional – For a stretchier edge, try starting with foundation hdc instead of the chain circle and rnd 1:
Alternate Foundation Rnd 1: 24 [28, 32] fhdc, join with sl st to first st. (24 [28, 32] sts)
Rnds 2-5 [6, 7]: Ch 1, fphdc in first st, bphdc in next st, (fphdc in next st, bphdc in next st) around, join with sl st to first st, changing to B at end of last rnd.
Bottom of Hand
With B and larger hook:
Rnd 6 [7, 8]: Ch 1, sc in first st, hdc in tlo of next st, (hdc in next st, hdc in tlo of next st) around, do not join.
Rnds 7-14 [8-17, 9-19]: (Hdc in in next st, hdc in tlo of next st) around, do not join.
Thumb Opening
Size S only
Rnd 15: Hdc in next st, ch 2, sk next 4 sts, hdc in next st, (hdc in next st, hdc in tlo of next st) around, do not join. (21 sts)
Rnd 16: Hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 chs, hdc in tlo of next st, (hdc in next st, hdc in tlo of next st) around, do not join. (23 sts)
Size M & L only:
Rnd 18 [20]: Hdc in next st, ch 3 sk next 5 sts, (hdc in next st, hdc in tlo of next st) around, do not join. (23 [27] sts)
Rnd 19 [21]: Hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 chs, (hdc in next st, hdc in tlo of next st) around, do not join. (26 [30] sts)
Top of Hand
Rnds 17-19 [20-24, 22-26]: (Hdc in next st, hdc in tlo of next st) around to last 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in tlo of next st, join with sl st to first st, changing to A.
Top Ribbing:
With A and smaller hook:
Rnds 20-22 [25-27, 27-29]: Ch 1, fphdc in first st, bphdc in next st, (fphdc in next st, bphdc in next st) around, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off.
Thumb:
With smaller hook, join A with sl st in first skipped from rnd 14 [17, 19].
Rnd 1:
Size S only: Bphdc in first st, fphdc in next st, bphdc in next st, fphdc in next st, work 4 sc evenly spaced around remainder of thumb opening, join with sl st to first st. (8 sts)
Size M & L only: Bphdc in first st, (fphdc in next st, bphdc in next st) twice, work 5 sc evenly spaced around remainder of thumb opening, join with sl st to first st. (10 sts).
Rnds 2- 4 [5, 6]: Ch 1, fphdc in first st, bphdc in next st, (fphdc in next st, bphdc in next st) around, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off.
Weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy making this beginner crochet scarf pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Rate this easy crochet fingerless mitts pattern!
Beginner Crochet Scarf – Still Waters
Wrap yourself in tranquil, gently shifting shades of blue. This beginner crochet scarf pattern uses only single crochets and chains, but creates an eye-catching, squishy texture that you just can’t help but snuggle into!
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Scarf of the Month Club
Still Waters was designed for the Scarf of the Month Club Crochet Along, hosted by Oombawka Designs and The Stitchin Mommy. This CAL is so much fun, and I love participating in it! I decided on a simple, beginner friendly scarf design this year. As we gear up for the busy holiday season, we could all use a more relaxing project once in a while.
Scarves make a great gift for almost anyone on your list, so it’s always nice to keep some on hand for last minute gifting. Check out this month’s other patterns: The Jada Cowl from The Stitchin Mommy, and the Verna Puff Stitch Infinity Scarf from Oombawka Designs. You may like all the other beautiful scarves and cowls in the CAL too!
Caron Simply Soft Ombre Yarn
I got this yarn for free in a goodie bag at a conference. The colorway I used is called Saturday Blue Jeans – I just love the relaxing feel of that name, don’t you? The ombre pattern shifts gently between shades of blue. As I was working it up, the pattern felt like streaks of sunlight across still, blue water.
This yarn comes in several other shades too – all of which would look lovely in this pattern!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Still Waters
Materials
- 2 Skeins Caron Simply Soft Ombres yarn in Saturday Blue Jeans Ombre – 100% Acrylic, 235 yds / 141 g per skein.
- Size H / 5 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Project Level
Basic: Only single crochet and chain stitches. Working into chain spaces.
Size
7 inches x 60 inches.
Gauge
14 sc x 15 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch. After Row 16, work should measure 7 x 4 inches. Gauge is not critical but will affect yarn usage.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
sk = skip
ch sp = chain space
RS = right side
Recommended Resources
- Foundation Chain – Learn to Crochet Lesson 2
- Single Crochet– Learn to Crochet – Lesson 3
- Granny Square (crocheting into chain spaces) – Learn to Crochet – Lesson 8
- Finishing – Learn to Crochet – Lesson 7
Instructions
Ch 29 (multiple of 3, plus 2)
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, and in each ch across. (28 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 sts, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next 2 sts) across to last 2 sts, ch 1, sk next st, sc in last st. (19 sc, 9 sps).
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, sc in first ch-1 sp, (ch 1, sk next 2 sts, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp) across to last 2 sts, ch 1, sk next st, sc in last st. (19 sc, 9 sps).
Repeat Row 3 until work measures 60 inches or desired length, ending after a wrong side row.
Edging Row (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in each st and in each ch-1 sp across. (28 sc)
Fasten off, weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy making this beginner crochet scarf pattern. Thank you to PoohBear83, mstaz308, and hqliz for testing it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!