Free Crochet Patterns – Home Décor
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Peg Doll Angel – Crochet Angel Pattern
Add a peg doll angel to a holiday display, on the tree, or as a gift. This crochet angel pattern is perfect for any time of year. Make them in birthstone colors for birthday gifts or to show mom she’s an angel on Mother’s Day.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Peg Dolls from Woodpeckers Crafts
The folks at Woodpeckers Crafts sent me free samples of several of their wood products to try out in various yarnie projects. I used their wood rings in my Fearless necklace earlier this year. These three peg dolls were part of that sample package as well.
Finishing the wood
The wood pieces come unfinished, so they can be stained, painted, or coated in any way you like. In the case of the peg dolls, this means you can paint them to match various skin tones if you want to. When I made the Fearless necklace, I rubbed the wood rings with a high gloss tung oil finish to make them shiny. While I was doing that, I did the same to the peg dolls.
Beads or picots
The peg doll angel dress has two options for the edging. You can choose a beaded edge or a picot edge, but you need to make the choice before starting on the dress. If you choose a beaded edge, the beads need to be pre-strung onto the thread before you start.
For tips on working with beads, see this Crocheting with Beads tutorial. For tips on making picots, see this Picot Two Ways tutorial.
Glue and stiffener:
You will need to stiffen the wings, and then glue them on to the peg doll angel. You can use the same glue for both tasks, or use different products if you prefer. The products I used are both samples I got free from the manufacturers at a conference.
To stiffen the wings, I used spray on Mod Podge. Using a spray on means that I can take my time positioning the item and pinning it in place, without worrying about it drying out or getting sticky. I also used this on my Mandala Earrings, and you can see it in use in the video for that pattern.
Both times I have used this spray on stiffener, I found that I had to use 2 coats to get the stiffness I wanted. With a liquid stiffener or glue, you can rub it into the fiber more thoroughly and don’t need the extra coat.
To glue the wings onto the angel, I used Ultra Bond Adhesive from iCraft. Really any glue that will stick to the thread and dry clear is fine. I like this bottle because it has a very thin tip that gives me a lot of control.
A note on gauge
I have not included a gauge measurement because the project itself is so small that it takes less time to make than a swatch would. The real key to sizing is the neckline and the length of the dress. The beginning chain circle at the neckline needs to be wide enough to fit over the peg doll angel’s head. It should just barely fit, and may need a little coaxing to go over. The dress should be long enough to cover the peg doll completely and flare out a bit at the bottom.
My gauge tends to vary a bit in thread because I don’t work with it that often. If you look closely, you may notice that all my wings are slightly different sizes. As long as you meet the two key measurements on the dress, the rest will be fine even if it’s a little bit off.
Peg Doll Angel
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Materials
- 2″ (medium) peg doll angel, available at Woodpeckers Crafts
- 10-20 yds size 10 crochet thread
- Size 8 / 1.5mm crochet hook
- Darning needle
- Glue (to attach wings)
- Cardboard box or other square edge for shaping
- Wax paper to cover cardboard edge.
- 1″ x 2″ piece of cardboard (for shaping halo)
- Other fabric stiffener of choice (optional)
- 9 size 6/0 or 8/0 seed beads (optional)
Project Level
Intermediate: Thread crochet in the round, with beads or picots.
Size
To fit a 2″ peg doll angel
Gauge
Dress should just barely fit over peg doll’s head with some coaxing, and be long enough to reach the bottom and flare out a bit. Slight variations in gauge are OK.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
sb = set bead (see Special Stitches)
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
rnd = round
RS = right side
Recommended Resources
Special Stitches:
Set Bead (sb): (See beading tutorial)
Slide a bead up next to the last stitch you made, so that it gets wrapped up into the next chain.
Picot: (See picot tutorial)
Ch 2, sl st in top of the previous stitch you made.
Instructions
Ch 3 at the start of a round counts as a dc.
Dress:
Ch 15, join with sl st to form a loop
Entire dress is worked on RS, without turning. Join rounds as indicated with a sl st in the first st unless otherwise specified.
Rnd 1: Ch 3, 18 dc in loop, join. (18 sts)
Slide work over peg doll’s head to make sure it fits. Adjust gauge if needed. Remove peg doll before continuing.
Rnds 2-4: Ch 3, dc in each st around, join.
Rnd 5: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), dc in same st, [sk next st, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next st] around to last st, sk last st, join. (9 ch-1 sps)
Put dress on peg doll and see that it reaches just to the bottom. If it does not, undo rnd 5 and add or subtract a round of dc if needed, then redo rnd 5.
Rnd 6 – with beads: Ch 1, sk first dc, [(3 sc, sb, ch 1, 3 sc) in next ch-1 sp, sk next 2 dc] across to last ch-1 sp, (3 sc, sb, ch 1, 3 sc) in next ch-1 sp, sk last st, join. (9 shells with beads)
OR
Rnd 6 – with picots: Ch 1, sk first dc, [(3 sc, picot, 3 sc) in next ch-1 sp, sk next 2 dc] across to last ch-1 sp, (3 sc, picot, 3 sc) in next ch-1 sp, sk last st, join. (9 shells with picots)
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Sew an 8-inch thread through the stitches at the neckline of the dress, leaving the ends hanging out to act as a drawstring. We will later be tying these into a bow and trimming.
Wash and block dress, paying particular attention to straightening the beads or picots.
Wings:
Wings are worked back and forth in rows – do not join.
Row 1 (WS): Ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (8 sts)
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch-1), turn, dc in next st, (ch 1, dc) in each st across. (8 ch-1 sps)
Row 3: Ch 3, turn, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp, sk next st, (3 dc in next ch-1 sp, sk next st) across to last ch-1 sp, 2 dc in last ch-1 sp, dc in last st. (24 sts)
Row 4: Ch 3, turn, sc in next st, (ch 3, sk next st, sc in next st) across to last st, dc in last st.
Edging: Do not turn. Rotate to work into sides of rows across top (flat edge) of wing. Ch 1, work 9 sc evenly spaced across top to center, ch 15 (halo), work 9 sc evenly spaced to end.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Stiffening the wings
- Cover cardboard strip and one edge of cardboard box with wax paper. This will keep the stiffener from sticking to it. (In the pictures, I forgot to put wax paper on my small cardboard strips).
- Wash wings and squeeze out as much water as possible with a towel.
- Add stiffener of your choice. You can use the same glue you will be using to attach the wings, or you can use a commercial fabric stiffener or starch. If using a spray on stiffener, skip this step.
- With right side facing out, arrange wings over edge of box, creating a fold along the center line. Pin in place and straighten out ch-3 loops along the edge.
- Place the small cardboard piece under the halo so that it is perpendicular to the box edge – basically, you want the halo not to have a fold in it, and to be propped forward just a bit. Pin cardboard and halo in place.
- If you’re using a spray on stiffener, spray that on now. Be sure to protect your surfaces and wipe up any drips.
- Allow to dry completely.
- Add additional coats of stiffener if needed, and allow to dry completely before removing from box.
Finishing
- Put dress on peg doll angel. Pull drawstring to cinch it tightly around the neck, then tie in a bow and trim ends.
- Glue wings to back of dress.
I hope you enjoy making this crochet, peg doll angel pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Corner to Corner Crochet Dishcloth – Symbiosis
Wash up with this lightly textured, corner to corner crochet dishcloth. The bright colors and simple texture works equally well for dishes, bath time, and more. Best of all, you can easily adjust the pattern to any size you need!
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Did you know
Most corals are naturally translucent, with white skeletons. They get their vivid colors from algae that grow inside their bodies. It’s just one of the many symbiotic relationships that make up the beauty of a coral reef. Choosing reusable washcloths or other eco-friendly options over plastic sponges is a simple way to help keep our oceans beautiful.
2019 Washcloth Crochet Along
I designed this corner to corner crochet dishcloth for the CAL Central 2019 Washcloth Crochet Along. Follow along for a new washcloth pattern every Monday through August 19th, and of course, there is a giveaway too! See the giveaway details and full schedule, including links to the rest of the July patterns, in this intro post on Underground Crafter.
Paintbox Cotton DK
Lovecrafts generously provided the Paintbox Cotton DK yarn that I used in this pattern. I love this yarn for dishcloths because it’s very soft and absorbent. It comes in a wide array of colors too. Because the skeins are smaller, you can mix and match colors without having tons left over.
Lovecrafts is providing some of this lovely yarn as one of the giveaway prizes as well. Be sure to check out the giveaway details on the main CAL post.
From Corner to Corner
Most often, when people say “corner to corner” or “c2c”, they are talking about diagonal box stitch. But there are a surprising array of stitches that can be worked from corner to corner. This particular dishcloth uses a fun, half double crochet pattern that I’ve been playing with a lot recently. For a very simple stitch, it adds a lot of rich texture! I also particularly love the way the color change row came out.
Working into the 3rd loop
The texture of this dishcloth is created by alternating between working normal half double crochet stitches, and working half double crochet stitches into the third loop. The third loop is in the front and just below the front and back loops that we normally work into.
For a more detailed look at working into the third loop of hdc, see this tutorial
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Symbiosis
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Materials
- Paintbox Cotton DK Yarn (100% cotton, 137 yds / 50g per ball).
- 60 yds #427 Slate Green (A)
- 60 yds #456 Vintage Pink (B)
- Size G / 4 mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Easy: Basic stitches in a repeating pattern. Working in 3rd loop of half double crochet.
Size
10-inch square after blocking – size can be adjusted if desired.
Gauge
14 hdc x 13 rows = 4 inches. Exact gauge isn’t critical. Use pattern as gauge swatch – after row 10, you should have a triangle that is 4 inches long on each of the 2 shorter sides.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sk = skip
RS = right side
Recommended Resources
Instructions
Color A – Increasing
With A, ch 2
Row 1: 3 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. (3 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in last st. (5 sts).
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next st, hdc in 3rd loop of next st, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in last st. (7 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first st, [hdc in next st, hdc in 3rd loop of next st] across to last 2 sts, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in last st. (9 sts)
Repeat row 4 twenty more times, change to B at end of last row, fasten off A. (49 sts).
To change the size, add more or fewer repeats of row 4 as desired.
Color B – Decreasing
Row 1 (RS): With B, ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. Place a marker in the first st of this row. (49 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, [hdc in next st, hdc in 3rd loop of next st] across to last 2 sts, sk next st, hdc in last st. (47 sts)
Repeat row 2 twenty two more times, or until 3 stitches remain. (3 sts)
Row 25: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, hdc in next st, ch 1, sl st in last st, fasten off. (1 hdc).
Edging Rnd
With right side facing, join B with a sl st in first st of row 1 of color B section. This should be where your tails are from when you changed colors.
- Working across sides of rows of color B: , work 37 sc evenly spaced to corner, ch 1, work 37 sc evenly spaced to next corner, change to A.
- Working across sides of rows of color A, work 37 sc evenly spaced to corner, ch 1, work 37 sc evenly spaced to starting corner, join with sl st to first st of edging, fasten off.
I hope you enjoy making this corner to corner crochet dishcloth pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
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Free Crochet Pattern – Chevron Star Stitch Spa Washcloth
Treat yourself to a spa day with the Chevron Star Stitch Spa Washcloth. Bold chevron stripes and a rich texture make this the perfect washcloth for a relaxing spa experience.
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Show Mom she’s a star!
I designed this washcloth for the 2019 Celebrate Mom Blog Hope and Giveaway hosted by Pattern Paradise.
My mom would always do special things for us kids, but never liked to treat herself to little luxuries of her own. As I got older, I loved to treat her to something special whenever I got the chance. A couple of years ago, we took a vacation together to Florida, and enjoyed a mother-daughter pedicure at a spa there. We both got to indulge a bit together, and it’s one of my fondest memories.
This pretty, textured washcloth would make a perfect addition to a spa gift basket for mom, or anyone else who needs a little pampering.
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton Yarn
The yarn I used for this design was leftover from the 2017 Knitted Kitchen Blog Hop KAL. Lion Brand had sent me this yarn for free for the KAL designs. I like to use this yarn for fancy washcloths. It’s soft and absorbent, but also has a beautiful shine to it.
Learn the Star Stitch
Combining star stitch and chevrons makes this a more complex pattern. If you’ve never done star stitch before, I strongly recommend watching this Star Stitch tutorial first.
That tutorial is actually how this pattern came about in the first place. Rebecca F. watched the tutorial and commented asking if it was possible to make chevrons using the star stitch. So I gave it a try and here we are!
If you ever have any ideas you’d like to see me make, please ask in a comment or on the Scrappy Stitchers Facebook group. I may not get to it right away, but I always enjoy a new challenge.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Chevron Star Stitch Spa Washcloth
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Materials
- Lion Brand 24/7 cotton yarn (I received this yarn for free from Lion Brand)
- 65 yds #143 Lilac (A)
- 55 yds #126 Cafe Au Lait (B)
- Size H / 5mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Advanced: Star stitches, increases, and decreases.
Size
10 inches wide x 11 inches long from point to point. Length can be adjusted as needed.
Gauge
Exact gauge isn’t critical. Use pattern as gauge swatch – after row 7, your work should measure about 10 inches wide x 4 inches long from point to point.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together
sc3tog = single crochet 3 stitches together
hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 stitches together
star = star stitch (see Special Stitches)
beg star = beginning star stitch (see Special Stitches)
dec = star decrease (see Special Stitches)
ch sp = chain space
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
Recommended Resources
- Crochet Star Stitch
- How to Crochet Star Stitch Chevrons
- How to Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog)
- The Single Crochet 3 Together Decrease (sc3tog) from New Stitch a Day
- Alternative hdc2tog (Half Double Crochet 2 Together)
Special Stitches:
Star Stitch (star)
See this Crochet Star Stitch Tutorial for a more detailed look.
Anatomy of a Star – Each star stitch is a cluster of 6 loops. The chain at the end forms the eye, the 6 loops form the legs, and the last chain worked into is the base.
Star Stitch – Working into the previous star, pick up one loop in the eye, one loop in the last leg, and one loop at the base, pick up a loop in each of next 2 chs, yo and draw through all 6 loops on hook, ch 1.
Beginning Star Stitch (beg star)
Working into the previous hdc, yo, pick up one loop in side of hdc stitch, pick up one loop at the base of hdc stitch (the same st the hdc was worked into), pick up a loop in each of next 2 sts, yo and draw through all 6 loops on hook, ch 1.
Star Decrease (dec)
Pick up loop in next st, (yo, pick up loop in next st) twice, yo and draw through all 6 loops on hook.
Instructions
With A, Ch 48 (multiple of 18 + 12)
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc2tog, [sc in next 7 chs, 3 sc in next ch, sc in next 7 chs, sc3tog] twice, sc in next 7 chs, 2 sc in last ch. (47 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first st, [hdc in next st, beg star, star twice, dec, hdc in next st, beg star, star twice, 3 hdc in next st] twice, hdc in next st, beg star, star twice, hdc2tog, hdc in last st. (15 stars)
The sc3tog stitches in row 3 will be worked into the next hdc, the next decrease, and the eye of the next star. See picture below.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, sc2tog over next st and eye of first star, sc in top of same star, *[sc in eye of next star, sc in top of star] twice, sc in each of next 2 hdc, 3 sc in next hdc, sc in next hdc, [sc in eye of next star, sc in top of star] 3 times, sc3tog in next: (hdc, dec, and eye of star), sc in top of same star, repeat from * once more, [sc in eye of next star, sc in top of star] twice, sc in each of next 2 hdc, 2 sc in last hdc, changing to B in last st. (47 sts)
Carry unused colors up along sides of rows. Any unsightly floats can be covered when you do the edging. Adjust the length as desired by working more or fewer repeats. End after a repeat of row 3.
Rows 4-5: Repeat rows 2-3 with B, changing to A in last st.
Rows 6-23: Repeat rows 2-5 four times, then repeat rows 2-3 once more.
Edging:
When working across side edges, work over any loose / carried threads to hide them.
- Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, [sc in next 7 sts, sc3tog, sc in next 7 sts, 3 sc in next st] twice, sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog, sc in last st. (47 sts)
- Ch 1, working in sides of rows, sc in each row across. (23 sts)
- Ch 1, working in bottom of foundation chain, sc in first st, sc2tog, [sc in next 7 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts, sc3tog] twice, sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in last st. (47 sts)
- Ch 1, working in sides of rows, sc in each row across, join with sl st to first stitch of edging round, fasten off. (23 sts).
Weave in all ends. Wash and block for best results.
I hope you enjoy making this Chevron Star Stitch Spa Washcloth. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Hygge Neck Roll Bolster Pillow
Fluffy, cozy, and oh so comfy! Give your neck the support it needs with the Hygge Neck Roll Bolster Pillow. With 2 options for the end cap, you can either make a solid pillow, or a pillow cover that can be slipped on and off.
This post contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
What is Hygge?
Hygge is a danish word that has become a lifestyle trend. Roughly translated, it means cozy and content. Read more about the concept here.
Hygge Home CAL
I designed this pattern for the Hygge Home CAL. Through mid-March, we’ll be sharing comfy, cozy, home decor projects like this one. Red Heart and Darn Good Yarn have both provided giveaway prizes to make the event even more fun! See all the details, including the giveaway entry information and links to the other patterns, in the main CAL post on Underground Crafter.
Red Heart Hygge Yarn
Red Heart also sent me some of their Hygge yarn for free, to make this design. This chunky yarn is fuzzy and unbelievably soft, exactly what you would expect from the name. I love the soft, muted shades, but if that’s not for you, Red Heart has recently widened the color range to include some richer colors too.
At the time, I didn’t yet know what I was going to make, so I got more than I needed. I have quite a bit left over, so you can expect another pattern in this yarn later in the year.
The pillow form
To stuff the pillow, I used a Poly Fil Premier Neckroll from Fairfield. This neckroll pillow form has an overlapping, envelope style opening at one end. I love this because it means you can add and remove stuffing to change the pillow firmness. This opening is where I got the idea for the optional opening on the pillow too.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Hygge Neck Roll Bolster Pillow
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Materials
- Red Heart Hygge yarn
- 110 yds #8579 Lavender
- 110 yds #8406 Pearl
- Poly-Fill Neck Roll pillow form
- Size K / 6.5 mm crochet hook, or size needed to match gauge
- Tapestry Needle
Skill Level
Intermediate: Worked in the round with simple color changes, some back post single crochets. Optional, alternate closure is somewhat more advanced.
Size
Fits a 5 x 14 inch neck roll pillow form.
Gauge
Use pattern as gauge swatch – Starting circle (either version) should measure approximately 6 inches in diameter.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
bpsc = back post single crochet
dc = double crochet
ch-sp = chain space
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
rnd = round
Recommended Resources
Instructions
(Scroll down for video tutorial)
Starting circle (Easier / solid version)
The easy version creates a solid end piece that will match the other end of the pillow. This is less bulky, but will not open and the pillow form will not be removable. Choose either this version or the optional advanced version.
Rnd 1 (RS): With lavender, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st to first st. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join with sl st to first st. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) around, join with sl st to first st. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around, join with sl st to first st. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts) around, join with sl st to first st. (30 sc)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts) around, join with sl st to first st. (36 sc)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts) around, join with sl st to first st. (42 sc)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts) around, join with sl st to first st. (48 sc)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first st. (48 sc)
Do not fasten off. Skip ahead to Body.
Starting circle (Advanced / open version)
The advanced version creates an end piece with overlapping halves. This is bulkier, but opens so that the pillow form can be removed. Scroll down for a video tutorial of the joining in this section.
Partial Circle (make 2)
Row 1: With lavender, ch 2, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (3 sc)
Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in each st across. (6 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) across. (9 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) across. (12 sc)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 3 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts) across. (15 sc)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts) across. (18 sc)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 5 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts) across. (21 sc)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 6 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts) across. Place marker in 21st st (4th st from end). (24 sts)
Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a dc in the first st throughout. For a less visible seam, try using a chainless starting double crochets instead!
Row 9: Ch 3 turn, working in sides of rows, work 15 dc evenly spaced across straight edge. (16 dc)
Row 10: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 3 sts, (dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts) twice (14 dc)
Fasten off first partial circle, do not fasten off 2nd partial circle.
Assembly
Line up the two partial circles, with right sides up, so that the two pieces overlap to form a circle. Partial circle #2, with the working yarn still attached, should be on top. The straight edges of the circles should line up with the markers.
Rnd 11 (RS): Do not turn. Ch 1.
The sides of rows 9 & 10 on the top piece line up with the last 4 sts of row 8 on the bottom piece. Working through both layers, sc in each of those 4 sts. (4 sc)
The next 4 sts on the top piece line up with the sides of rows 9 & 10 on the bottom piece. Working through both layers, sc in each of those 4 sts. (4 sc).
Now your piece is joined at one side where it overlaps.
Working into the top layer only, sc in each st around to next marker (16 sc)
The next 4 sts on the top piece line up with the sides of rows 9 & 10 on the bottom piece. Working through both layers, sc in each of those 4 sts. (4 sc).
The sides of rows 9 & 10 on the top piece line up with the next 4 sts on the bottom piece. Working through both layers, sc in each of those 4 sts. (4 sc)
Now both overlapping edges are joined.
Sc in each remaining st on bottom layer. (16 sc)
Join with sl st to first st of round. (Total of 48 sts in round)
You should now have a full circle, with an opening in the middle where the two layers overlap. Continue with Body.
Body
Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a dc in the first st throughout. For a less visible seam, try using a chainless starting double crochets instead!
Rnd 1: Ch 1, bpsc in each st around, join with sl st to first st. (48 sc)
Rnds 2-4: Ch 3, dc in next st and in each st around, join with sl st to first st, changing to pearl at the end of Rnd 6. (48 dc)
Rnds 5-21: With pearl, ch 3, dc in next st and in each st around, join with sl st to first st, changing to lavender at the end of rnd 20. (48 dc)
Insert pillow form to check length. The remaining uncovered length of the pillow form should be the same as the length of rounds 1-4. If it is not, add or remove pearl colored rows as needed.
Rnds 22-24: With lavender, ch 3, dc in next st and in each st around, join with sl st to first st. (48 dc)
Ending Circle
Rnd 1: Ch 1, bpsc in each st around, join with sl st to first st. (48 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first st. (48 sc)
If you used the solid starting circle, insert pillow form and weave in all tails before continuing.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog) around, join with sl st to first st. (42 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, (sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog) around, join with sl st to first st. (36 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, (sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog) around, join with sl st to first st. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, (sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog) around, join with sl st to first st. (24 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, (sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog) around, join with sl st to first st. (18 sts)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, (sc in next st, sc2tog) around, join with sl st to first st. (12 sts)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc2tog in each st around, join with sl st to first st. (6 sts)
Fasten off leaving a 6 inch tail.
Use tail to sew hole closed.
Weave in ends.
If you use the open starting circle, pull the overlapping ends apart and insert pillow form.
Hygge Neck Roll Optional Closure – Video Tutorial:
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Heart-Shaped Crochet Hot Pad – 10 Minute Make!
Add this heart-shaped hot pad to your Valentine’s Day decor. Super bulky yarn combined with a super easy pattern means it only takes 10 minutes to make!
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Hooked Zpagetti Yarn
I received the Zpagetti t-shirt yarn free from Hoooked at the Creativation conference in 2019. The color I used for my crochet hot pad is called Taffy Pink, but they have a whole range of pretty pinks and corals to choose from.
I learned at Creativation that Hoooked Zpagetti yarn is environmentally friendly. Textile manufacturing creates an incredible amount of waste from selvages and cuttings. Hoooked recycles this textile waste into fabulous yarn!
If you’ve never worked with t-shirt yarn before, you’re missing out. It’s soft, surprisingly stretchy, and creates a dense, squishy fabric. Because it’s so thick, it works best with simple stitches and makes large projects really fast. I haven’t tried knitting with it yet, but I think I may need to sometime soon.
Global Backyard Industries Crochet Hook
Of course, an extra-large yarn needs an extra-large hook! I got this hook from Global Backyard Industries long ago, when I did a pattern for their t-shirt yarn kits, and it worked perfectly for this crochet hot pad!
Materials
- Yarn: 100 yds Hooked Zpagetti – 95% cotton, 5% other, super bulky weight yarn (131 yds / 24.7 oz / 700 g per cone)
- Hook: Size P / 12 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Large yarn needle
Project Level
Easy – Basic stitches, worked in the round.
Size
9 inches / 22.5 cm wide x 8.5 inches / 21.5 cm tall.
Gauge
Rnd 1 should measure approximately 4.25 inches / 10.5 cm in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
| ch | chain |
| dc | double crochet |
| rnd | round |
| sc | single crochet |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| sp | space |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| tr | treble crochet |
Recommended Resources
Instructions
Ch 4, join with sl st to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a st throughout), (11 dc, ch 1, sc) in ring, do not join or turn. (12 sts, 1 ch-1 sp)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 6 dc in first dc, [2 dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc], (dc, ch-1, tr, ch-1, dc) in next dc, repeat between [ ], 6 dc in next dc, skip next ch-1 sp, sl st in last sc. (26 dc, 1 tr, 2 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 3: (Ch 1, sl st) in each st and each ch-1 sp around, fasten off. (29 sl sts, 29 ch-1 sps)
Weave in ends. If you started your work with a slip knot, undo the slip knot before weaving in the end.
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Free Pattern – Valentine Pillow
Show your love to someone special with this soft and squishy heart. The simple heart shapes are seamed with a decorative edging, to make a Valentine pillow you’ll love to squeeze. Remember to make one for yourself too!
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I’m working on using up some of my stash yarn this year, so I’m delighted that this first project of the year is a stashbuster. Both the yarn and the fiber came from my stash.
I used a skein of Patons Classic Wool Merino that I’ve had for ages. The yarn was actually renamed to just Patons Classic Wool at some point, but the Rosewood colorway I used has been discontinued. They have a really pretty color now called Plum Heather which I think would be just gorgeous for this pattern!
For the stuffing, I used some Poly Fil brand fiber fill. I had originally received this fiber fill for free from Fairfield, to use for my Serrana the Mermaid design. The generous folks at Fairfield sent me so much that I have a ton left over! I may be designing quite a few more stuffed items this year to use it all up.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Valentine Pillow
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Materials
- 200 yds worsted weight yarn
- Size H / 5 mm crochet hook, or size needed to match gauge
- Yarn needle
- 2 -3 oz Original Poly-Fil fiber fill
Skill Level
Intermediate – All single crochet with some increases and decreases for shaping. Worked flat and seamed with reverse single crochet (crab stitch).
Size
12 inches x 12 inches
Gauge
14 sc x 17 rows = 4 inches. Exact gauge is not critical, but fabric should be tight enough so stuffing doesn’t show through.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dec = invisible decrease (see Special Stitches)
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
Recommended Resources
- Invisible Single Crochet Decrease on Nicki’s Homemade Crafts
- Edging – Crab Stitch and Twisted SC
- Felting / Fulling
Special Stitch:
Invisible Decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook.
Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches
Yarn over and draw up a loop
Yarn over and draw through both loops on hook
This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Instructions
Heart (make 2)
The heart shapes are reversible, so your work has no right or wrong side until it is joined.
Bottom:
Row 1: Ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook (1 sc).
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 3 sc in first st. (3 sc)
Rows 3-9: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. (17 sts)
Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (17 sts)
Row 11: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. (19 sts)
Row 12-23: Repeat rows 10-11 six times more. (31 sts)
Rows 24-25: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (31 sts)
Row 26: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st. (33 sts)
Row 27-29: Repeat rows 24-26. (35 sc)
Rows 30-32: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (35 sc)
1st half of top:
Row 33: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 17 sts, leaving remaining sts unworked. (17 sc)
Row 34: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (17 sc)
Row 35: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc across to last 2 sts, dec. (15 sc)
Rows 36-37: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (15 sc)
Row 38: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc across to last 2 sts, dec. (13 sc)
Row 39: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (13 sc).
Rows 40-43: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc across to last 2 sts, dec. (5 sc)
Fasten off.
2nd half of top:
Working into skipped stitches from Row 32, sk first st, join yarn with a sl st in next st.
Row 33: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (17 sts)
Rows 34-43: Repeat rows 34-43 of 1st half of top.
Fasten off after first heart. Do not fasten off second heart.
Edging Round
Hold both heart pieces together, lining up the edges. Work through both layers together, going backwards. If you are right handed, this means work from left to right instead of from right to left. This is called reverse sc or crab stitch.
- Left top: Ch 1, sc in each st across top. (5 reverse sc)
- Center “valley”: Ch 1, work 11 sc evenly spaced across sides of rows to the skipped st at the center, sc in skipped st, work 11 sc evenly spaced across sides of rows to top. (23 reverse sc)
- Right top: Ch 1, sc in each st across top. (5 reverse sc)
- Right side: Ch 1, work 41 sc evenly spaced to bottom point, 3 sc in bottom point. (44 reverse sc)
- Left side: Work 41 sc evenly spaced to top, stuffing your pillow firmly as you go. Join with sl st to first st of edging. (41 reverse sc)
When made in a “feltable” wool yarn (not superwash), this project is perfect for felting. If you plan to felt your pillow, stuff it slightly less firmly, to allow for some shrinkage during the felting process. See this felting / fulling tutorial for more information.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Simple Snowflake
With just three rounds, this simple snowflake is easy and fast to crochet, and can be made in any size yarn or thread. Make a set for your tree, for a gift, or just for decoration. It works well as an applique too!
This pattern contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Simple Snowflake
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Materials
- Any size yarn or thread (yardage will vary based on size and gauge)
- Hook in a comfortable size for your yarn
- Yarn needle
- Fabric stiffener or school glue (optional)
Skill Level
Easy – basic stitches worked in the round.
Size / Gauge
Size and gauge will depend on materials used. In size 10 thread with a 2.75mm hook, mine came out to about 3 inches in diameter. In worsted weight yarn, with a 4.5mm hook, mine came out to about 5.5 inches in diameter.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
ch sp = chain space
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
rnd = round
Recommended Resources
- Learn to Crochet – Lesson 3 – Single Crochet
- Learn to Crochet – Lesson 4 – Double Crochet
- Learn to Crochet – Lesson 8 – Granny Square
Instructions
Snowflake
Ch 3 at the start of a round counts as a dc throughout.
Ch 6, join with sl st to form a circle.
Rnd 1: Working into the circle: ch 3, 2 dc, (ch 3, 3dc) 5 times, ch 3, join with sl st to first st (18 dc, 6 ch-3 sps)
Rnd 2: Sl st in next 2 sts, (sl st, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp, [ch 1, sk next 3 sts, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp)] 5 times, ch 1, join with sl st to top of starting ch-3 (first dc), (36 dc, 6 ch-3 sps, 6 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 3: Sl st in next 2 sts, ch 1, [(sc, ch-3, sc, ch-7, sc, ch-3, sc) in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sk next 3 sts, (sl st, ch 3, sl st) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next 3 sts] 6 times, join with sl st to first sc, fasten off. (24 sc, 18 ch-3 loops, 6 ch-7 loops)
Finishing
Weave in all ends. Block and stiffen as desired.
For bulkier yarns, stiffening may not be needed. In this case, wash and block as normal.
To stiffen with commercial fabric stiffener, follow package directions.
To stiffen with glue: Mix glue with a small amount of water. For cotton crochet thread I use a 1:1 ratio, but you may need more or less depending on your fiber. The more water you add, the less stiff it will be. Place snowflakes into the solution and squeeze until completely saturated, then lay flat, pin to shape, and allow to dry. You can remove the pins once the fabric stiffens enough to hold it’s shape. Use wax paper to protect your blocking surface if desired.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Angel Ornament
Make some for yourself, and make more for your friends. This sweet little Angel Ornament works up in under an hour, and makes a great gift. The open, granny stitch pattern lets the tree lights shine through, making her seem to light up inside. A video tutorial is included below!
This pattern contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Materials:
- 40-50 yds Worsted weight yarn
- Size H / 5 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
- Stitch marker or scrap of yarn
- Fiber fill (enough to stuff the head as desired)
Skill Level:
Intermediate – increases, decreases, picots.
Size:
About 6 inches tall not counting loop. You can use a different size yarn or thread for a larger or smaller angel, but the yardage needed will vary accordingly.
Gauge:
Use head as gauge swatch. Before stuffing, head should measure about 2 inches tall and 2.5 inches wide. Exact gauge is not critical but stitches should be tight enough for the head so that the stuffing won’t fall out.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- inc = invisible increase (see Special Stitches)
- dec = invisible decrease (see Special Stitches)
- sp = space
- ch-sp = chain space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
Special Stitches:
Invisible increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, then sc in both loops of same stitch.
Invisible decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook.
This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Picot: Ch 3, sl st in top of the previous stitch you made. (See Recommended Resources section for a picot tutorial)
Instructions:
(Scroll down for video tutorial)
Leave an 8 inch starting tail.
Loop (for hanging):
Ch 6, join with sl st to form a circle.
Head:
Entire angel is worked on the right side, do not turn your work. Head is worked in continuous rounds. Mark the first stitch of each round, and do not join at the end of the round.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, 6 sc in same ch where you joined loop. (6 sc)
Fold loop forward so you can continue to work around it.
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (Inc in next st, sc in next st) around. (18 sc)
Rnds 4-7: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 8: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sts)
Rnd 9: Dec in each st around, sl st in first st of round. (6 sts)
Remove stitch marker if desired.
Body:
Ch 3 at the beginning of a rnd counts as a dc.
Rnd 10: Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in first st, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next st, ch 1, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next st] twice, ch 1, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, join with sl st to first st. (30 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 6 ch-1 sps)
For remainder of body, work only into ch-sps, skipping sts unless otherwise indicated.
Rnd 11: Sl st in next 2 sts and in first ch-2 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same ch-2 sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, [ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp] twice,** ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, repeat from * to **, ch 1, join with sl st to first st. Place marker in last ch-1 sp made. (42 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 10 ch-1 sps)
Stuff head. Make sure starting tail sticks out through the stuffing at the neck. Using starting tail, sew neck closed.
Rnd 12: Sk next 4 ch sps, (sl st, ch 3, 2 dc) in next ch-1 sp, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) twice, sk next 4 ch sps, ch 2, (3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) twice, 3 dc in last ch-1 sp, ch 2, join with sl st to first st. (18 dc, 2 ch-2 sps, 4 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 13: Ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp (the last one before the join), (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) twice, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) twice, ch 1, 3 dc in beginning ch-2 sp, ch 2, join with sl st to first st. (24 dc, 2 ch-2 sps, 6 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 14: Ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) 3 times, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) 3 times, 3 dc in beginning ch-2 sp, ch 2, join with sl st to first st. (30 dc, 2 ch-2 sps, 8 ch-1 sps)
Bottom Edging:
Rnd 15: Ch 3, dc in same ch-2 sp, (3 dc, picot, 2 dc) in each ch sp around, (3 dc, picot) in beginning ch sp, join with sl st to first st, fasten off. (50 dc, 10 picots)
Wing Edging:
Fold wings so skipped sts and ch-sps from rnd 11 match up. There will be one stitch at the top of each wing that is by itself.
First wing: With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in marked sp (at the underarm). Working through both layers, sc in next 3 sts, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 3 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next st, sl st in remaining single st at top of wing. Fasten off. (11 sc)
Second Wing: With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in the single st at the top of wing. Working through both layers, sc in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 3 sts, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 3 sts, sl st in next ch-1 sp, fasten off.
Weave in all ends.
Angel Ornament – Video Tutorial:
I’ve split this video into 3 parts here, due to the file size. It’s also available as one video on YouTube.
Part 1:
Part 2:
Part 3:
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Ruffled Mini Tree Skirt
Everything’s better with ruffles! This Ruffled Mini Tree Skirt is only 12 inches in diameter, to fit a small, tabletop tree. Sew it closed, and it would look great under other decorations as well, or even as a trivet. Using only one color at a time, this easy design creates wedge shaped sections, surrounded by a ruffled edging.
This pattern contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
I made the sample using Red Heart Holiday yarn, which I had received free from Red Heart for another project. This yarn is now discontinued, but With Love Metallic is a good substitute
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Ruffled Mini Tree Skirt
Materials:
- Red Heart With Love Metallic yarn
- 50 yds #8303 Aran (A)
- 90 yds #8919 Red (B)
- Size H (5 mm) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Skill Level:
Easy – Simple stitches, short row shaping, some working in back loop only.
Size:
12 inches diameter.
Gauge:
15 sc x 18 rows = 4 inches (after blocking). Exact gauge is not critical, but yardage will vary with gauge.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- ch sp = chain space
- RS = Right Side
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
With A, Ch 18
Wedge 1 (color A):
Row 1 (RS): Working in back bumps, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 4 chs, hdc in next 5 chs, dc in next 7 chs (17 sts)
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), turn, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 5 sts, sc in next 5 sts, leaving remaining sts unworked. (13 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 5 sts, hdc in next 5 sts, dc in remaining st(s).
Row 4: Ch 3, turn, hdc in next 5 sts, sc in next 5 sts, leaving remaining sts unworked (11 sts)
Row 5: Repeat row 3
Row 6: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 5 sts, sc in next st, sc in next 4 skipped sts from previous rows, leaving remaining sts unworked. (15 sts)
Row 7: Repeat row 3
Row 8: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 5 sts, sc in next 3 sts, sc in remaining skipped sts from previous rows, changing to red. (17 sts)
Wedge 2 (color B):
Row 9 (RS): Working in back loops only, repeat row 3. (17 sts)
Rows 10-16: Repeat rows 2-8, changing to A at the end of the last row.
Wedge 3 (color A):
Rows 17-24: With A, repeat 2nd wedge, changing to red at the end of the last row.
Wedges 4-8:
Repeat wedges 2-3 twice, then repeat wedge 2 once more.
Edging (color B):
Rnd 1 (RS):
Wedge 8 edge: Working in back loops only, ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (17 sts)
Outside edge: Working in sides of rows, ch 1, 3 sc in each row, ch 1. (192 sts)
Wedge 1 edge: Working in bottom of foundation chain, sc in each st across. (17 sts)
Center circle: Working in sides of rows, ch 1, 2 sc in each row, ch 1, join with sl st to first st. (16 sts)
Row 2 (RS): Do not turn. Ch 1, sc in each st across wedge 8 edge, ch 2, 2 dc in next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each st around outside edge, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, fasten off. (406 sts)
Finishing:
Wash and block.
Weave in all ends.
For a seamless appearance, overlap the edges at the opening, with the edging from wedge 1 laying on top of the edging from wedge 8.
To make a trivet, sew the opening edges together, then sew through each stitch around the center circle and pull tightly to close.
I hope you enjoy the pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Mod Stripes Towel
Funky, fun, and festive, everything about this towel is just a little bit off kilter. The uneven stripes have raised edges that flow in one direction, and the textured wattle stitch is an asymmetrical variation of the V stitch.
You can even change the look entirely depending on how you fold it. Show off the bold striping pattern, or fold it in thirds lengthwise and it becomes solid red with a thin decorative border! With so many options to fit any decor, the Mod Stripes Towel makes a unique gift that can be used all year.
This pattern was designed for the 2018 Holiday Stashdown Crochet-along, hosted by CAL Central. LoveCrafts has generously provided all the participating designers with fabulous Paintbox yarns for free, to use for our Holiday Stashdown CAL designs. LoveCrafts is also providing one lucky giveaway winner with all 60 (yes, 60!) shades of their Paintbox Simply Aran yarn. That’s an amazing prize!
Check out the main Holiday Stashdown CAL post for information on how to join in the fun, enter the giveaway, and see all the other great patterns and prizes! Please also show all our sponsors some love by visiting their stores. We couldn’t have these great giveaways without their support.
#HolidayStashdownCAL #CALCentral
This post contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click an affiliate link and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Mod Stripes Towel
Materials:
- Paintbox Cotton DK
- 130 yds #408 Vanilla Cream (cream)
- 130 yds #416 Red Wine (red)
- 80 yds #427 Slate Green (teal)
- Size G (4 mm) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Skill Level:
Easy – changing colors, working in third loop of hdc.
Size:
15 x 20 inches.
Gauge:
17 sc x 18 rows = 4 inches (after blocking). Exact gauge is not critical, but yardage will vary with gauge.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- ch sp = chain space
- RS = Right Side
- WS = Wrong side
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
With cream, Ch 99 (multiple of 3)
Cream Stripe (5 rows):
Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook, sk next ch, [(sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch, sk next 2 chs] 31 times, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch, sk next ch, hdc in last ch. (2 hdc, 32 ch-1 sps)
Rows 2-4: Ch 1, turn, [hdc in first st, [sk next dc, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp, sk next sc] across to last st, hdc in last st. (2 hdc, 32 ch-1- sps)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, [sk next dc, 3 hdc in next ch-1 sp, sk next sc] across to last st, hdc in last st, changing to teal. (98 hdc)
Fasten off yarn at the end of each stripe – do not carry yarn up the side of your work.
Teal Stripe (4 rows):
Row 6: Working in third loops only, Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, sk next st, [(sc, ch 1, dc) in next st, sk next 2 sts] 31 times, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next st, sk next st, hdc in last st. (2 hdc, 32 ch-1 sps)
Rows 7-8: Repeat row 2.
Row 9: Repeat row 5, changing to cream at end of row.
Cream Stripe (2 rows):
Row 10: Repeat row 6
Row 11: Repeat row 5, changing to red at end of row.
Red Stripe (22 rows):
Row 12: Repeat row 6
Rows 13-32: Repeat row 2.
Row 33: Repeat row 5, changing to cream at end of row.
Cream Stripe (4 rows):
Row 34: Repeat row 6
Rows 34-36: Repeat row 2.
Row 37: Repeat row 5, changing to teal at end of row.
Teal Stripe (6 rows):
Row 38: Repeat row 6
Rows 39-42: Repeat row 2.
Row 43: Repeat row 5, changing to cream at end of row.
Cream Stripe (3 rows):
Row 44: Repeat row 6
Row 45: Repeat row 2
Row 46: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, sk next dc, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp, [sk next sc, sk next dc, 3 sc in next ch-1 sp, sk next sc, sk next dc, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp] across to last st, sc in last st. (79 sc)
Edging:
Rnd 1: (280 sc total)
- Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to last st, 3 sc in last st. (81 sc)
- Working in sides of rows, work 57 sc evenly spaced across. (57 sc)
- Working in bottom of foundation chain, treat the skipped chs as ch-sps: 3 sc in first ch, sk next ch-sp, sc in next ch, (2 sc in next ch-sp, sc in next ch, sc in next ch sp, sc in next ch) 15 times, sc in last ch-sp, 3 sc in last ch. (83 sc)
- Working in sides of rows, work 57 sc evenly spaced across, 2 sc in same st as beginning of round, join with sl st to first st, changing to teal. (59 sc)
Rnd 2: With teal, ch 1, turn, sc in first st (corner), [ch 1, sk next st, (sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st) 29 times, 3 sc in next st (corner), ch 1, sk next st, (sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st) 39 times], 3 sc in next st, (corner), repeat between [ ], 2 sc in same st as beginning corner, join with sl st to first st, changing to cream. (148 sc, 140 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 3: With cream, ch 1, turn, 3 sc in first st, [sc in each st and in each ch-1 sp across to next corner (sc in next st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st)] 3 times, sc in each st and in each ch-1 sp across, join with sl st to first st. (296 sc)
Finishing:
Fasten off.
Wash and block.
Weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy the pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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