Free Crochet Patterns – Home Décor
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Drawstring Basket Crochet Pattern
Need a sturdy, stylish storage solution? Make this drawstring basket! Tight stitches in a unique combination of yarns makes it stand up tall even when empty. Once you’ve filled it, secure your treasures with the drawstring cover!
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Raffia and Cotton
The unique texture of this drawstring basket comes from using two yarns together as one, with a tight stitch gauge. King Cole Raffia yarn gives it the stiffness and stability to stand up straight, even when empty.
Buy King Cole Raffia yarn in the Stitches n Scraps yarn shop. Then combine that with your favorite, worsted weight cotton for added strength, and a tweedy blend of colors! For my basket, I used the Raffia in natural, along with a muted green cotton blend yarn.
Drawstring Cover
My favorite feature of this drawstring basket is the cover. Roll it down when the basket is open, for a soft rolled edge. When you’re ready to close it up again, just cinch the drawstring.
If you don’t want to use the cover at all, fold it in and it becomes a lining on the sides of the basket!
Handy Handles
Every basket needs good handles! The wide, side handles on this basket make it easy to pick up and carry wherever you need it.
Materials:
- Yarn:
- 200 yds King Cole Raffia 100% Cellulose Rayon, worsted weight yarn
- 350 yds worsted weight cotton yarn
- Hook: Size H/5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Yarn needle
- Stitch marker or scrap of yarn to use as a running stitch marker
Project Level:
Intermediate – Working in rounds and rows, tighter than usual gauge, post stitches.
Size:
- Diameter: 10″
- Height: 5″ not counting cover
Gauge:
11 hdc x 8 rnds = 4 inches.
Use pattern as gauge swatch – After rnd 4, base should measure 4 inches in diameter.
Abbreviations used:
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
ch = chain
bpdc = back post double crochet
bphdc = back post half double crochet
dc = double crochet
fpdc = front post double crochet
fphdc = front post half double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
rnd = round
Instructions:
Base is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join unless indicated. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of the round.
Base
Holding 1 strand of raffia and 1 strand of cotton yarn together, ch 2.
Rnd 1: 8 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. (8 hdc)
Rnd 2: [Hdc in next st, fpdc around same st] around. (8 hdc, 8 fpdc)
For rnds 3-9, the stitch count will increase by 8 hdc on each rnd.
Rnd 3-9: [Hdc in each st across to next fpdc, hdc in fpdc, fpdc around same fpdc] around. (64 hdc, 8 fpdc)
Rnd 10: [Hdc in each st across to next fpdc, hdc in fpdc, fpdc around same fpdc] 7 times, hdc in each st across to last fpdc, hdc in last fpdc, fphdc around same fpdc. (72 hdc, 7 fpdc, 1 fphdc)
Do not fasten off.
Sides
Join rounds where indicated with a sl st in the first st of the rnd. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of the round.
Rnd 11: [Bpdc in each of next 9 hdc, hdc in next fpdc] 7 times, bpdc in each of next 9 hdc, hdc in last fphdc, join. (72 bpdc, 8 hdc)
Rnds 12-13: Ch 1, [bpdc in each of next 4 sts, fpdc in each of next 4 sts] 10 times, join. (40 bpdc, 40 fpdc)
Rnds 14-15: Ch 1, [fpdc in each of next 4 sts, bpdc in each of next 4 sts] 10 times, join. (40 bpdc, 40 fpdc)
Rnds 16-19: Repeat rnds 12-15.
Fasten off Raffia yarn only. Continue to work with cotton yarn only.
Top
Top is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join unless indicated. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of the round.
Rnd 20: Ch 1, bphdc in first st, bpdc in each st around. (80 sts)
Rnds 21-25: Dc in each st around.
Rnd 26: Dc in each st around to last 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, join. (78 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc)
Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
Handles (Make 2)
With cotton, ch 7.
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (6 sc)
Rows 2-4: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Do not turn at the end of row 4. Instead, begin working in continuous rounds, starting by working into the first stitch of row 4. Do not join. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of the round.
Rnds 5-20 (RS): Sc in each st around.
Now go back to working in rows.
Rows 21-23: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Drawstring
With cotton, ch 120, or until chain measures about 42 inches long.
Do not fasten off. Remove hook and secure working loop with stitch marker. This way you can add or remove chains later if needed.
Assembly
Attach Handles
Flatten one end of one handle, and position it along rnds 16 and 17, anywhere along the side of the basket. Use tail to sew in place, then weave in the end.
Flatten the other end of the handle, and position it about 16 stitches away from the first end. Use tail to sew into place, then weave in the end.
Repeat for the 2nd handle, placing it directly opposite the first one. Make sure there is the same number of stitches between the handles on each side of the basket.
Attach Drawstring
Weave drawstring through rnd 27 of top, so that the ends come out centered between the handles as follows: Use the starting tail of the drawstring (opposite the working loop). Start 2 stitches to the right of center, and weave in and out again every 4 stitches. This should bring you back around to about 2 stitches left of center, 4 stitches away from where you started.
Adjust drawstring length by adding or removing stitches as desired. You should have at least 4 inches free on each end, when bag is fully open.
Fasten off and weave in ends on drawstring. Attach a cord lock if desired. Tie a knot in the end of each drawstring to keep it from slipping back through the stitches.
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Rate this drawstring basket crochet pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this drawstring basket crochet pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee.
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Reusable Sweeper Cover Crochet Pattern
I love this style of sweeper/mop, but the disposable cloths get expensive over time. A reusable sweeper cover is so much more cost-effective and more environmentally friendly too!
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Using the reusable sweeper cover
This reusable cloth has pockets at each end, which are meant to slide up over the ends of the sweeper head. The fabric is thinner on top of the pockets, with all the bumpy bits on the bottom. So if your sweeper has the little grips on top like mine does, you can push the fabric into those for an even more secure fit.
Perfect for stash busting!
Use up your worsted-weight cotton yarn scraps for this pattern, changing colors wherever you want to. Just be sure that the colors you use don’t bleed in hot water.
Cotton yarn is ideal, but a cotton/acrylic blend will work too. I used up some Lion Brand Cotton Ease that’s been in my stash for years. The color is #132 Cactus, but this yarn has long since been discontinued.
Reversible design
This sweeper cover has no right or wrong side – the pattern is the same on both sides, and can be used either way!
Size adjustments
This reusable sweeper cloth fits sweeper heads that are about 10″ long by 4.5″ wide. You can adjust the pattern fairly easily to fit any size you like.
To adjust width:
Add or remove starting chains in groups of two, so that you have an even number of chains.
On row 20, add or remove the same number of extra/fewer chains. So if you start with 14 chains instead of 12 (2 extra), then on row 20, add 11 chains instead of 9. You should end up with the same number of stitches in section 3 as you have in section 1.
To adjust length:
Work each section to about 1/3 of the desired length, adding or removing repeats in group of 2 rows as necessary. Pay attention to whether you need to end on an odd or even numbered row to match the pattern.
Materials:
- Yarn: 85 yds worsted weight, cotton or cotton/acrylic blend yarn
- Hook: Size H/5 mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Notions:
- Yarn needle
- Stitch marker
Project Level:
Easy – Worked in the round and in rows, with combinations of basic stitches.
Size:
4.5 inches x 10 inches
Gauge:
Use pattern as gauge swatch. After rnd 11, work should measure 4.5 inches x 3.5 inches.
Abbreviations used:
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
st(s) = stitch(es)
tr = treble crochet
Instructions:
Join rounds where indicated with a sl st in the first st of the rnd.
Section 1
Ch 12 (multiple of 2)
Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, place marker in last st worked, working on opposite side of chain, sc in each ch across. (22 sc)
Move marker up in each round or row when you come to it.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, [tr in next st, sc in next st] to marker, hdc in marked st, hdc in each remaining st around, join. (6 sc, 11 hdc, 5 tr)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across to marker, hdc in marked hdc, tr in next sc, [sc in next tr, tr in next sc] around, join. (5 sc, 11 hdc, 6 tr)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in first tr, [tr in next sc, sc in next tr] to marker, hdc in marked hdc, hdc in each remaining hdc around, join. (6 sc, 11 hdc, 5 tr)
Rnds 5-10: Repeat rnds 3-4 an additional 3 times.
Rnd 11: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across to marker, hdc in marked hdc, tr in next sc, [sc in next tr, tr in next sc] around, join, sl st in next hdc. (5 sc, 11 hdc, 6 tr)
Work should now measure about 3.5 inches long.
Section 2
Row 12: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first hdc, sc in next tr, [tr in next sc, sc in next tr] across to marked st, hdc in marked hdc, leave remaining hdc unworked. (6 sc, 2 hdc, 5 tr)
Row 13: Ch 1, turn, hdc in marked hdc, tr in next sc, [sc in next tr, tr in next sc] across to last st, hdc in last hdc. (5 sc, 2 hdc, 6 tr)
Row 14: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first hdc, sc in next tr, [tr in next sc, sc in next tr] across to last st, hdc in last hdc. (6 sc, 2 hdc, 5 tr)
Rows 15-19: Repeat rows 13-14 twice, then repeat row 13 once more.
Rnd 20: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first hdc, sc in next tr, [tr in next sc, sc in next tr] across to marked st, hdc in marked hdc, ch 9, join, sl st in next st. (6 sc, 2 hdc, 5 tr, 9 chs)
Section 3
Rnd 21: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first hdc, hdc in each ch across to marked st, hdc in marked hdc, tr in next sc, [sc in next tr, tr in next sc] around, join. (5 sc, 11 hdc, 6 tr)
Rnds 22-30: Repeat rnds 2-3 an additional 4 times, then repeat rnd 2 once more.
Finishing
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Flatten rnd 30 and sew end closed using tail.
Remove marker and weave in all ends.
Rate this reusable sweeper cover pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this crochet cowl and scarf pattern.
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Textured Crochet Stripes Pillow
Get cozy with the textured crochet stripes pillow! This quick and easy pattern combines bulky yarn with subtle stripes of alternating texture. With 10 sizes to choose from, you can make matching pillows for your entire home!
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This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
2022 Cozy at Home CAL
This textured crochet stripes pillow is my design for the 2022 Cozy at Home Crochet Along. See the whole schedule in the main CAL post, and join in the fun at CAL Central on Facebook!
O’Go yarn format
A little while ago, Yarnspirations sent me some Caron Colorama yarn in their new O’Go format. Rather than a skein, it’s a unique coil, held together in a circle by a plastic tie. It unravels easily, and is also easy to pull apart into separate colors.
The yarn itself is the same, bulky weight, Caron Colorama yarn you’re used to. I used the color Wine Time, and I love that there are both bold and subtle color shifts in the skein.
Pillow Inserts
For my pillow, I used a 14 x 14 pillow insert that I had bought years ago. These inserts come in a wide variety of sizes. I’ve written the pattern 10 square sizes, all the way from 12 inches to 30 inches, in 2-inch increments. You can also stuff your pillow with fiberfill instead of an insert. Check out my idea list on Amazon for my favorite pillow inserts and fiberfill products.
Invisible Seams
You can seam this pillow using any seaming methods you prefer. For my pillow, I chose to use invisible seams for both the top and the sides. For the top, I used a grafting technique. This method joins the last row to the first row so that when you remove the starting chain, it looks like the two rows were crocheted together. Check out my tutorial for grafting crochet end to end.
I sewed the side seam using a mattress stitch technique. I’ll have a tutorial for that out soon as well. In the meantime, here’s a great tutorial from Edie Eckman. You can use a mattress stitch seam for the top edge as well. Here’s a great mattress stitch tutorial from Moogly joining top and bottom edges.
Materials
- Yarn: 1 [1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5]* skeins Caron Colorama 100% acrylic, bulky weight yarn (137 yds / 180 g per skein)
- Hook: Size J-10 / 6 mm hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Yarn needle
- Stitch markers or pins (optional – to help with seaming).
*See sizes below. I used 1 skein for the 14-inch pillow sample, but it was pretty close to the entire skein. The 28-inch size will also be close. You may want to have an extra skein handy for those sizes, just in case.
Project Level
Easy: Easy, repeating stitch pattern worked flat, some seaming.
Sizes
12 [14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30] inches square. Instructions are written for 12-inch square, with changes for other sizes in [ ].
Gauge
9 hdc x 8 rows = 4 inches.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
sc = single crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
Recommended Resources
- Mattress Stitch Crochet Side Edges (coming soon)
- Grafting Crochet End to End
- Make Better Crochet Seams with Mattress Stitch from Edie Eckman (joining side edges)
- Mattress Stitch Seaming from Moogly (joining top and bottom edges)
Instructions
Rectangle has no right or wrong side. Finished rectangle should be twice as long as it is wide.
Rectangle
Ch 29 [33, 39, 43, 47, 53, 57, 61, 65, 71] sts (multiple of 2 plus 1)
Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. 28 [32, 38, 42, 46, 52, 56, 60, 64, 70] sts
Rows 2-4: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across.
Row 5-8: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, dc in next st, (sc in next st, dc in next st) across.
Work should now measure 12 [14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30] inches wide x 4 inches long.
Row 9-12: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across.
Rows 13-16: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, dc in next st, (sc in next st, dc in next st) across.
Repeat rows 9-16 4 [5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times more.
Finishing
Fold rectangle in half to make a square.
Sew any 2 sides together. You may find it helpful to pin your edges in place first with stitch markers or pins.
If your seams are visible, turn pillow right side out so that the seams are on the inside.
For my pillow, I grafted the final row to the first row, creating a seamless tube. I then sewed one side seam with a mattress stitch for side seams. These techniques are both invisible and done on the right side of the work, so there was no need to turn the pillow right side out.
If you are NOT using invisible seams, I recommend sewing the two side edges first so that they match, and then sewing the top edge.
Insert pillow form or stuffing, and sew final seam closed using a mattress stitch seam.
Rate this Textured Crochet Stripes Pillow Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this textured crochet stripes pillow pattern.
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Snowman Fridge Magnet Crochet Pattern
I LOVE the snow! Does it snow in the winter where you live? Make this cheerful snowman fridge magnet for your fridge or magnet board. They’re great for stuffing stockings and decorating gift wrap too!
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This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
2021 Fridgies CAL
This snowman fridge magnet is the final pattern in the 2021 Fridiges CAL! If you’ve been crocheting along through all 12 magnet patterns, you should now have an adorable set of fridgies for yourself or for a gift!
Did you miss any of them? They work up quickly so you can still catch up!
Enter the Giveaway
There have been several giveaways throughout the Fridgies CAL. We’re now on our 4th and final giveaway. You could win this amazing Mosaic Wood Crochet Hook Set provided by WeCrochet!
The giveaway ends on December 31st, at 11:59pm central time. Find all the giveaway details and learn more about the Fridgies Crochet Along here. You can also read my review of these lovely hooks here.
Lion Brand DIY Yarn
Lion Brand provided all the yarn for this crochet along. Their DIY yarn comes in small balls, which is just perfect for the small amounts needed for each magnet. The elf fridge magnet is mostly camel (brown), with some red and white for the hat, and a bit of hot pink and black for embroidery.
If you’re not able to get this yarn or the colors you need, Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice or Basic Stitch are also good options. You can also substitute embroidery thread for the pink and black yarns.
Xyron Glue Gun
The easiest way to attach your magnet to your crochet is with hot glue. For my magnets, I’m using this mini hot glue gun that Xyron gave me to try out.
I used it on this spider fridge magnet and on the previous magnets as well. I’ve been very happy with it. It heats up quickly and produced a nice steady bead of glue. Watch it in action in the tutorial video below!
Materials
- Yarn: Lion Brand DIY Yarn (100% acrylic, worsted weight, 65 yds / 30g per ball)
- 30 yds White
- 10 yds Sky (lt blue)
- 5 yds Royal (dk blue)
- 1/2 yd each Black and Orange, or Black and Orange embroidery floss
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Strong, flat magnet that will fit inside the snowman (sample shown is 1 inch diameter)
- Xyron hot glue gun and glue stick
- Stitch marker (optional)
- 1/4 – 1/2 inch pom pom (store bought, or made with the Royal yarn)
Project Level
Easy: Worked in the round, increases, some embroidery and seaming.
Size
About 2.5 inches in diameter, not counting hat.
Gauge
12 sc x 13 rounds = 4 inches
Use pattern as gauge swatch – After rnd 4, back circle should measure about 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical. Your fabric should be tight enough that the magnet won’t show through.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, then sc in both loops of same st. This counts as two stitches in the end of round stitch counts.
See this tutorial for a more detailed look.
Instructions
Join rounds where indicated with a slip stitch in the first stitch of the round. Slip stitches are not included in stitch counts unless otherwise specified. Mark first stitch of rounds if desired. Do not turn your work unless indicated.
Back
Back Circle
With white, ch 2.
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) around, join. (18 sts)
Rnd 4 (ears): Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in each of next 2 sts, (inc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts) around, join. (24 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a 24 inch tail for sewing. Weave in starting end.
Work should now measure about 2.25 inches in diameter.
Magnet
Using hot glue gun, glue magnet to center of back circle, on the WS of work.
Set back piece aside.
Front
Front Circle
Rnds 1-4: Repeat rnds 1-4 of back circle.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Face
Using the picture as a guide, embroider black eyes and mouth and an orange nose. I made the eyes and mouth with french knots.
Weave in all ends except for the long tail for sewing.
Hat
Row 1 (WS): With Sky, ch 3, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in last ch. (4 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, inc in first st, sc in each of next 2 sts, inc in last st. (6 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, inc in first st, sc in each of next 4 sts, inc in last st. (8 sts)
Edging Rnd: Ch 1, do not turn, sc in each st across, ch 1, working in sides of rows: 3 sc across to bottom of foundation ch, ch 1, sc in each of the 2 foundation chs, ch 1, working in sides of rows, 3 sc across to start of round, join with sl st in starting ch and change to dk blue. (16 sc)
Bottom Band: Ch 1, do not turn, sc in each of first 8 sts. (8 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch tail of dk blue for sewing.
Weave in all ends except the long tail of dk blue.
Assembly
Join Front and Back
Place the front and back together so that wrong sides are together. The magnet should be hidden between them.
Use the long tail from the front to sew the front and back together. Weave in the end.
Attach Hat
Use the long tail from the hat to sew the hat into place. At the corners, curve the edge of the hat slightly over the edge of the face so that the hat covers the edge.
Attach pom pom to top of hat and trim if necessary.
Weave in any remaining ends.
Snowman Fridge Magnet Video Tutorial
Watch This Video on YouTube
Rate this Snowman Fridge Magnet Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this snowman fridge magnet pattern. Big thanks to Karen Navoy for testing it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Elf Fridge Magnet Crochet Pattern
Need a holiday helper? Make this adorable elf fridge magnet for your fridge or magnet board. They’ll happily hang on to your notes and pictures for you. They’re great for stuffing stockings and decorating gifts too!
This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
2021 Fridgies CAL
This elf fridge magnet is the November pattern in the 2021 Fridiges CAL! Crochet along through 12 magnet patterns. At the end of the year, you’ll have an adorable set of fridgies for yourself or for a gift! You may want to make 2 sets, so you don’t have to decide.
Enter the Giveaway
There have been several giveaways throughout the Fridgies CAL. We’re now on our 4th and final giveaway. You could win this amazing Mosaic Wood Crochet Hook Set provided by WeCrochet!
Find all the giveaway details and learn more about the Fridgies Crochet Along here! You can also read my review of these lovely hooks here.
Lion Brand DIY Yarn
Lion Brand provided all the yarn for this crochet along. Their DIY yarn comes in small balls, which is just perfect for the small amounts needed for each magnet. The elf fridge magnet is mostly camel (brown), with some red and white for the hat, and a bit of hot pink and black for embroidery.
If you’re not able to get this yarn or the colors you need, Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice or Basic Stitch are also good options. You can also substitute embroidery thread for the pink and black yarns.
Xyron Glue Gun
The easiest way to attach your magnet to your crochet is with hot glue. For my magnets, I’m using this mini hot glue gun that Xyron gave me to try out.
I used it on this spider fridge magnet and on the previous magnets as well. I’ve been very happy with it. It heats up quickly and produced a nice steady bead of glue. Watch it in action in the tutorial video below!
Materials
- Yarn: Lion Brand DIY Yarn (100% acrylic, worsted weight, 65 yds / 30g per ball)
- 30 yds camel (brown)
- 15 yds red
- 5 yds white
- 1/2 yd each black and hot pink, or black and pink embroidery floss
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Strong, flat magnet that will fit inside the spider (sample shown is 1 inch diameter)
- Xyron hot glue gun and glue stick
- Stitch marker (optional)
- 1/4 – 1/2 inch pom pom (store bought, or made with the white yarn)
Project Level
Easy: Worked in the round, increases, picots, some embroidery.
Size
About 2.5 inches in diameter, not counting ears and hat.
Gauge
12 sc x 13 rounds = 4 inches
Use pattern as gauge swatch – After rnd 4, back circle should measure about 2.25 inches in diameter not counting ears. Exact gauge is not critical. Your fabric should be tight enough that the magnet won’t show through.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, then sc in both loops of same st. This counts as two stitches in the end of round stitch counts.
See this tutorial for a more detailed look.
Picot: Ch 3, then sl st in the last stitch you made before the chains.
See this tutorial for a more detailed look.
Instructions
Join rounds where indicated with a slip stitch in the first stitch of the round. Slip stitches are not included in stitch counts unless otherwise specified. Mark first stitch of rounds if desired. Do not turn your work unless indicated.
Back
Back Circle
With brown, ch 2.
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) around, join. (18 sts)
Rnd 4 (ears): Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, picot, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) twice, inc in next st, picot, sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st, sc in last 2 sts, join. (24 sc, 2 picot ears)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Work should now measure about 2.25 inches in diameter, not counting the picot ears.
Magnet
Using hot glue gun, glue magnet to center of back circle, on the WS of work.
Set back piece aside.
Front
Front Circle
Rnds 1-3: Repeat rnds 1-3 of back circle.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around, join. (24 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a 24 inch tail for sewing. Weave in starting end.
Face
Using the picture as a guide, embroider black eyes, red mouth, pink cheeks, and brown nose.
I didn’t actually decide to add the nose until the end, so several of the following pictures have the nose missing.
Weave in all ends except for the long tail for sewing.
Hat
Row 1 (WS): With red, ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook. (1 st)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st. (1 st)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, inc in first st. (2 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, inc in first st, sc in last st. (3 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 sts, inc in last st. (4 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, inc in first st, sc in last 3 sts. (5 sts).
Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sts)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn, inc in first st, sc in next 3 sts, inc in last st. (7 sts)
Edging Rnd: Do not turn. Working in sides of rows, ch 1, work 6 sc evenly spaced to point of hat (bottom of row 1), ch 3, work 8 sc evenly spaced to bottom of hat (beginning of row 8), join with sl st to first st of row 8 and change to white.
Hat trim: Do not turn, with white, ch 1, (sl st, ch 2) in each st across to last st, sl st in last st.
Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch white tail for sewing later.
Sew or glue pompom onto the top point of the hat.
Weave in all ends except for the long white tail.
Assembly
Join Front and Back
Place the front and back together so that wrong sides are together and the heads line up. The magnet should be hidden between them.
Use the long tail from the front to sew the front and back together, working just under the tops of the stitches along the outside edge of the front and back circles. Be careful not to sew over the ears. Weave in the end.
Attach Hat
Use the long tail from the hat to sew the hat into place. At the corners, curve the edge of the hat slightly over the edge of the face so that the hat covers the edge.
Weave in any remaining ends.
Elf Fridge Magnet Video Tutorial
Watch This Video on YouTube
Rate this Elf Fridge Magnet Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this elf fridge magnet pattern. Big thanks to Karen Navoy for testing it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Hand Warmer Coffee Cup Cozy Knitting Pattern
Keep your hands toasty warm, without burning them on hot drinks. This hand warmer coffee cup cozy protects your hand from the hot coffee cup, while also covering it to keep it warm! Festive, ribbon candy stripes make this a perfect holiday gift.
This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Holiday Stashbusting KAL
This hand warmer cup cozy is my pattern in the Holiday Stashbusting KAL at KAL Corner. You can find all the other KAL patterns, and giveaway details too, in this main KAL post!
Materials
- Yarn: Worsted weight yarn
- 20 yds cream
- 10 yds each red and green
- Needles: Size 8 / 5 mm needles, or size needed to match gauge, for knitting in the round. Use a set of double pointed needles, or a circular needle long enough for the magic loop method.
- Notions: Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Easy: Ribbing, stockinette and garter stitch, color changes, some increases, and some seaming.
Size
About 4 x 3 inches when flat. Designed to fit tapered, take-out-style coffee cups.
Gauge
16 sts x 24 rnds = 4 inches in stockinette
Abbreviations used
k = knit
kfb = knit front and back
p = purl
rnd = round
RS = right side
st(s) = stich(es)
WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources
Instructions
Cozy
With red, cast on 28 sts. Use an alternating cable cast on or another stretchy cast on for ribbing.
Distribute stitches evenly on double-pointed needles or magic loop, to knit in the round.
Rnds 1-5: With red, (k1, p1) around.
Carry unused colors up along the WS as you go. Don’t worry about the extra bulk, or the jog from the color changes, this “seam” will be covered by the hand warmer.
Rnd 6: With cream, k around.
Rnd 7: With green, k around.
Rnd 8: With green, (kfb, k13) twice. (30 sts)
Rnds 9-11: With green, k around.
Rnd 12: With cream, k around.
Rnds 13-15: With green, k around.
Rnd 16: With green, (kfb, k14) twice. (32 sts)
Rnd 17: With green, k around. Cut green yarn, leaving a tail to weave in later.
Rnd 18: With cream, k around. Cut cream yarn, leaving a tail to weave in later.
Rnd 19: With red, k around.
Rnds 21-23: With red, (k1, p1) around.
Bind off using a sewn tubular bind off or another stretchy bind off for ribbing.
Weave in all ends.
Hand Warmer
With cream, cast on 12 stitches using any low profile cast on you prefer, and leaving a 16-inch starting tail for sewing.
Rows 1-35: K across.
Bind off using any low profile bind off you prefer, and leaving a 16-inch ending tail for sewing.
The hand warmer has no right or wrong side.
Assembly
Turn cozy wrong side out. Align one short edge (cast on or bind off) of the hand warmer just under the top edge of the cozy, so that it is centered over the “seam” at the beginning of the rounds.
When sewing the hand warmer on, be sure you are only ever sewing through 1 layer of hand warmer and 1 layer of cozy. It can be helpful to place a piece of paper or cardboard between the layers, to separate the ones you want to sew through from the ones you don’t want to sew through.
Sew top edge of hand warmer into place using the long tail, then weave in the end.
Fold hand warmer down so it goes through the cup cozy and out the bottom. The bottom edge of the hand warmer should stick out a bit.
Fold this bottom edge up and align it along the bottom of the cup cozy, again centered over the “seam.” Sew bottom edge of hand warmer in place using the long tail, then weave in the end.
Weave in any remaining ends and turn the hand warmer coffee cup cozy right side out.
I hope you enjoyed this hand warmer coffee cup cozy pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Spider Fridge Magnet Crochet Pattern
It’s creepy, it’s crawly, but it’s oh so cute! Make this adorable spider fridge magnet for your fridge or magnet board. Stick one on a spider web for some creepy Halloween decor. They’re great for party favors or gifts too!
This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
2021 Fridgies CAL
This spider fridge magnet is the September pattern in the 2021 Fridiges CAL! Crochet along through 12 magnet patterns. At the end of the year, you’ll have an adorable set of fridgies for yourself or for a gift! You may want to make 2 sets, so you don’t have to decide.
Enter the Giveaway
There have been several giveaways throughout the Fridgies CAL. We’re now starting our 4th and final giveaway. You could win this amazing Mosaic Wood Crochet Hook Set provided by WeCrochet!
Find all the giveaway details and learn more about the Fridgies Crochet Along here! You can also read my review of these lovely hooks here.
Lion Brand DIY Yarn
Lion Brand provided all the yarn for this crochet along. Their DIY yarn comes in small balls, which is just perfect for the small amounts needed for each magnet. The spider fridge magnet is all black, with a tiny amount of white for the eyes.
If you’re not able to get this yarn or the colors you need, Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice or Basic Stitch are also good options. You can also substitute embroidery thread for the white yarns.
Xyron Glue Gun
The easiest way to attach your magnet to your crochet is with hot glue. For my magnets, I’m using this mini hot glue gun that Xyron gave me to try out.
I used it on this spider fridge magnet and on the previous magnets as well. I’ve been very happy with it. It heats up quickly and produced a nice steady bead of glue. Watch it in action in the tutorial video below!
Materials
- Yarn: Lion Brand DIY Yarn (100% acrylic, worsted weight, 65 yds / 30g per ball)
- 50 yds black
- 1/2 yd white, OR white embroidery floss
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Strong, flat magnet that will fit inside the spider (sample shown is 1 inch diameter)
- Xyron hot glue gun and glue stick
- Stitch marker (optional)
Project Level
Intermediate: Worked in the round, black yarn, increases, 2 main sections sewn together, some embroidery.
Size
About 2.5 inches in diameter, not counting head and legs.
Gauge
12 sc x 13 rounds = 4 inches
Use pattern as gauge swatch – After rnd 4, back circle should measure about 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical. Your fabric should be tight enough that the magnet won’t show through.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, then sc in both loops of same st. This counts as two stitches in the end of round stitch counts.
See this tutorial for a more detailed look.
Instructions
Join rounds where indicated with a slip stitch in the first stitch of the round. Slip stitches are not included in stitch counts unless otherwise specified. Mark first stitch of rounds if desired. Do not turn your work unless indicated.
Back
Back Circle
With black, ch 2.
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) around, join. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around, join. (24 sts)
Do not fasten off
Work should now measure about 2.25 inches in diameter.
Head and Legs
Rnd 5: Sk first st,
First set of legs: ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each of the remaining 4 chs, [sl st in each of next 2 sts on back circle, ch 8, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each of the remaining 6 chs] twice, sl st in each of next 2 sts on back circle, ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each of the remaining 4 chs, sl st in next st on back circle
Head: Dc in each of next 3 sts, sl st in next st
2nd set of legs: Repeat instructions for first set of legs. Fasten off, leaving remaining 6 sts unworked.
Weave in all ends.
Magnet
Using hot glue gun, glue magnet to center of back circle, on the WS of work.
Set back piece aside.
Front
Front Circle
Repeat rnds 1-4 of back circle.
Head
Rnd 5: Sk first st, dc in each of the next 3 sts, sl st in next st, leaving remaining 19 sts unworked.
Fasten off, leaving an 18 inch tail for sewing.
Eyes
With white yarn or embroidery floss, and using the picture as a guide, make 2 small stitches for eyes.
Weave in all ends except for the long tail for sewing.
Join Front and Back
Place the front and back together so that wrong sides are together and the heads line up. The magnet should be hidden between them.
Use the long tail from the front to sew the front and back together, working just under the tops of the stitches along the outside edge of the front and back circles.
Weave in any remaining ends.
Spider Fridge Magnet Video Tutorial
Watch This Video on YouTube
Rate this Spider Fridge Magnet Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this bat fridge magnet pattern. Big thanks to Karen Navoy for testing it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Bat Fridge Magnet Crochet Pattern
This little bat fridge magnet is trying hard to be spooky, but they’re just too cute! Make your own sweet bat friend for your fridge or magnet board. They’re great for gifting too, so you may want to make a whole colony!
This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
2021 Fridgies CAL
This bat fridge magnet is the September pattern in the 2021 Fridiges CAL! Crochet along through 12 magnet patterns. At the end of the year, you’ll have an adorable set of fridgies for yourself or for a gift! You may want to make 2 sets, so you don’t have to decide.
Enter the Giveaway
There will be several giveaways throughout the Fridgies CAL. For our 3rd quarter giveaway, you could win 3 skeins of this sparkly, gorgeous, Date Nights yarn from Lion Brand!
Find all the giveaway details and learn more about the Fridgies Crochet Along here! Look for a new knitting pattern from me in this yarn soon. Once it’s ready, I’ll link it here.
Lion Brand DIY Yarn
Lion Brand provided all the yarn for this crochet along. Their DIY yarn comes in small balls, which is just perfect for the small amounts needed for each magnet. For the bat fridge magnet, I used brown and black, with small amounts of white and pink for the facial features.
If you’re not able to get this yarn or the colors you need, Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice or Basic Stitch are also good options. You can also substitute embroidery thread for the white and pink yarns.
Xyron Glue Gun
The easiest way to attach your magnet to your crochet is with hot glue. For my magnets, I’m using this mini hot glue gun that Xyron gave me to try out.
I used it on this bat fridge magnet and on the previous magnets as well. I’ve been very happy with it. It heats up quickly and produced a nice steady bead of glue. Watch it in action in the tutorial video below!
Materials
- Yarn: Lion Brand DIY Yarn (100% acrylic, worsted weight, 65 yds / 30g per ball)
- 40 yds brown
- 15 yds black
- 1/2 yd each white and pink, OR white and pink embroidery floss
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Strong, flat magnet that will fit inside the bat (sample shown is 1 inch diameter)
- Xyron hot glue gun and glue stick
- Stitch marker (optional)
Project Level
Intermediate: Worked in the round, increases and decreases, 2 main sections sewn together, some embroidery.
Size
About 2.5 inches in diameter, not counting ears and wings.
Gauge
12 sc x 13 rounds = 4 inches
Use pattern as gauge swatch – After rnd 4, back circle should measure about 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical. Your fabric should be tight enough that the magnet won’t show through.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, then sc in both loops of same st. This counts as two stitches in the end of round stitch counts.
See this tutorial for a more detailed look.
Instructions
Join rounds where indicated with a slip stitch in the first stitch of the round. Slip stitches are not included in stitch counts unless otherwise specified. Mark first stitch of rounds if desired. Do not turn your work unless indicated.
Back
Back Circle
With brown, ch 2.
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) around, join. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around, join. (24 sts)
Fasten off leaving an 18 inch tail for sewing.
Work should now measure about 2.25 inches in diameter.
First Ear
With WS facing, join black with sl st in any st on last rnd of back circle.
Row 1 (WS): 2 sc in same st, 2 sc in next st, leaving remaining sts unworked. (4 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog twice. (2 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog. (1 st)
Fasten off.
2nd Ear:
With WS facing, skip next 3 unworked sts on back circle. Join black with sl st in next unworked st on back circle.
Repeat rows 1-3 of first ear. Fasten off.
First Wing:
With WS facing, skip next unworked sts on back circle. Pull up a loop of black next unworked st on back circle.
Row 1: Ch 7, sk first 2 chs, sl st in next ch, sc in each of remaining 4 chs, sl st in next unworked st on back circle. (4 sc)
Row 2: Turn, sk sl st, dc in next sc, ch 2, sl st in top of dc just made, sl st in next sc, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in next sc, sl st in last sc.
Fasten off.
2nd Wing:
With RS facing, and starting from edge of first ear, skip next unworked sts on back circle. Pull up a loop of black next unworked st on back circle.
Repeat rows 1-2 of first wing. Fasten off.
Wing Shaping:
Weave the ending tail of each wing along the bottom edge of the wing. Pull gently to help the wing curve downward a bit. When you like the shape, weave in the remaining end.
Weave in all ends except for the 18-inch brown tail, which will be used for sewing.
Magnet
Using hot glue gun, glue magnet to center of back circle, on the WS of work.
Set back piece aside.
Front
Front Circle
Repeat rnds 1-4 of back circle.
Fasten off leaving a normal tail for weaving in. There is no need for an extra-long tail.
Face
Using the pictures as a guide:
Embroider 2 eyes in black.
Embroider a horizontal nose in pink.
Embroider 2 triangular fangs in white.
Weave in all ends.
Join Front and Back
Place the front and back together so that wrong sides are together with the face centered between the ears. The magnet should be hidden between them.
Use the long brown tail from the back to sew the front and back together, working just under the tops of the stitches along the outside edge of the front and back circles.
Weave in any remaining ends.
Bat Fridge Magnet Video Tutorial
Watch This Video on YouTube
Rate this Bat Fridge Magnet Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this bat fridge magnet pattern. Big thanks to Karen Navoy for testing it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Cable Runner Cabled Crochet Table Runner Pattern
Dress up your table or shelf with this scrappy, cabled crochet table runner! Three separate cables twist along the length of this runner, in a repeating pattern that’s easy to memorize. Make it to any length you need, and change colors as much as you want, to create your own unique look.
This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Vinnis Colors Nikkim Yarn
Vinnis Colors had sent me some of their lovely Nikkim yarn for my Dorothy’s Square pattern. I used what was left for this crocheted cabled table runner.
It’s a soft, 100% cotton, DK weight yarn that comes in a wide array of hand-dyed colors. It has a lovely, light and airy feel and a subtle tonal quality to the colors.
The colors shown in the sample are 512 Denim, 579 Antique and 513 Washed Denim
Materials
- Yarn: 250 yds DK weight yarn.
- Hook: Size 7 (4.5mm) crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
Sample is shown in Vinnis Colors Nikkim 100% cotton yarn, in colors 512 Denim, 579 Antique, and 513 Washed Denim.
Project Level
Intermediate: Post stitch cables with crossed stitches.
Size
10 x 36 inches / 25 x 90 cm
Note: Pattern can be adjusted to any length. Length adjustments will affect yardage needed.
Gauge
15 sc x 16 rows = 4 inches. Exact gauge is not critical but will affect yarn usage.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- CB = Cable Border (see Special Stitch)
- ch = chain
- fpdc = front post double crochet
- fptr = front post treble crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet
- sk = skip
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side
- rep = repeat
- rnd = round
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet next 2 stitches together.
- sl st = slip stitch
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
Special Stitch
Cable Border: Fpdc around next fpdc, sc in next sc, sk next fptr, fptr around next fptr, working in front of fptr just made fptr around skipped fptr, sc in next sc, fpdc around next fpdc. (2 sc, 2 fpdc, 2 fptr).
Recommended Resources
Instructions
Change colors as desired throughout pattern. Sample shows color changes after rows 17, 41, 49, 97, 105, and 129.
Main Section
Scroll down for chart
Foundation Chain: Ch 39.
Row 1 (WS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (38 hdc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of first 3 sts, [fpdc around next st, sc in next st, sk next st, fptr around next st, working in front of fptr just made, fptr around skipped st, sc in next st, fpdc around next st], sc in each of next 5 sts, fpdc around each of next 2 sts, sc in each of next 6 sts, fpdc around each of next 2 sts, sc in each of next 5 sts, repeat between [ ], sc in each of last 3 sts. (26 sc, 8 fpdc, 4 fptr)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (38 sc)
From this point forward, all post stitches (fpdc and fptr) are worked around post stitches from previous RS row. Skip sc behind post stitch.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of first 3 sc, CB, sc in each of next 6 sc, fptr around each of next 2 fpdc, sc in each of next 4 sc, fptr around each of next 2 fpdc, sc in each of next 6 sc, CB, sc in each of last 3 sc. (26 sc, 4 fpdc, 8 fptr)
Row 5: Repeat row 3
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of first 3 sc, CB, sc in each of next 7 sc, fptr around each of next 2 fptr, sc in each of next 2 sc, fptr around each of next 2 fptr, sc in each of next 7 sc, CB, sc in each of last 3 sc. (26 sc, 4 fpdc, 8 fptr)
Row 7: Repeat row 3
Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of first 3 sc, CB, sc in each of next 8 sc, fptr around each of next 4 fptr, sc in each of next 8 sc, CB, sc in each of last 3 sc. (26 sc, 4 fpdc, 8 fptr)
Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of first 18 sts, working in front of previous row, dc in unworked sc below each of next 2 sts, sc in each of last 18 sts. (36 sc, 2 dc)
Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of first 3 sc, CB, sc in each of next 7 sc, fptr around each of next 2 fptr, sc in each of next 2 dc, fptr around each of next 2 fptr, sc in each of next 7 sc, CB, sc in each of last 3 sc. (26 sc, 4 fpdc, 8 fptr)
Rows 11-12: Repeat Rows 3-4
Row 13: Repeat Row 3
Row 14: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of first 3 sc, CB, sc in each of next 5 sc, fptr around each of next 2 fptr, sc in each of next 6 sc, fptr around each of next 2 fptr, sc in each of next 5 sc, CB, sc in each of last 3 sc. (26 sc, 4 fpdc, 8 fptr)
Row 15: Repeat Row 3
Row 16: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of first 3 sc, CB, sc in each of next 5 sc, fpdc around each of next 2 fptr, sc in each of next 6 sc, fpdc around each of next 2 fptr, sc in each of next 5 sc, CB, sc in each of last 3 sc. (26 sc, 8 fpdc, 4 fptr)
Row 17: Repeat Row 3
Row 18: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of first 3 sc, CB, sc in each of next 5 sc, fpdc around each of next 2 fpdc, sc in each of next 6 sc, fpdc around each of next 2 fpdc, sc in each of next 5 sc, CB, sc in each of last 3 sc. (26 sc, 8 fpdc, 4 fptr)
Rows 19-144: [Repeat Rows 3-18] 7 times, then repeat Rows 3-16 once more. Do not fasten off.
To adjust length, work more or fewer repeats. Any adjustments will change amount of yarn needed and st counts for Edging.
Main Section Chart
Edging:
Continuing from Row 144:
- Working in sides of rows, ch 1, sc in each row across. (144 sc)
- Working on bottom of foundation chain, ch 1, sc in each ch across. (38 sc)
- Working in sides of rows, ch 1, sc in each row across. (144 sc)
- Working across top of row 144, ch 1, sc in each st across, join with sl st to starting ch-1. (38 sc)
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Wash and block.
Share this cabled crochet table runner pattern on Pinterest!
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Rate this cabled crochet table runner pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this cabled crochet table runner pattern! A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee.
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Owl Fridge Magnet Crochet Pattern
A wise old owl told me this owl fridge magnet pattern is a hoot! Make a feathered friend of your own, to perch on your fridge or magnet board. They’re great for gifting too, so you may want to make a whole parliament of owls.
This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
2021 Fridgies CAL
This owl fridge magnet is the August pattern in the 2021 Fridiges CAL! Crochet along through 12 magnet patterns. At the end of the year, you’ll have an adorable set of fridgies for yourself or for a gift! You may want to make 2 sets, so you don’t have to decide.
Enter the Giveaway
There will be several giveaways throughout the Fridgies CAL. For our 3rd quarter giveaway, you could win 3 skeins of this sparkly, gorgeous, Date Nights yarn from Lion Brand!
Find all the giveaway details and learn more about the Fridgies Crochet Along here! Look for a new knitting pattern from me in this yarn soon. Once it’s ready, I’ll link it here.
Lion Brand DIY Yarn
Lion Brand provided all the yarn for this crochet along. Their DIY yarn comes in small balls, which is just perfect for the small amounts needed for each magnet. For the owl fridge magnet, I used red, brown, white, and a small amount of black and orange for the facial features.
If you’re not able to get this yarn or the colors you need, Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice or Basic Stitch are also good options. You can also substitute embroidery thread for the black and orange yarns.
Xyron Glue Gun
The easiest way to attach your magnet to your crochet is with hot glue. For my magnets, I’m using this mini hot glue gun that Xyron gave me to try out.
I used it on this owl fridge magnet and on the previous magnets as well. I’ve been very happy with it. It heats up quickly and produced a nice steady bead of glue. Watch it in action in the tutorial video below!
Materials
- Yarn: Lion Brand DIY Yarn (100% acrylic, worsted weight, 65 yds / 30g per ball)
- 45 yds brown
- 10 yds red
- 10 yds white
- 1/2 yd each black and orange, OR black and orange embroidery thread
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Strong, flat magnet that will fit inside the sun (sample shown is 1 inch diameter)
- Xyron hot glue gun and glue stick
- Stitch marker (optional)
Project Level
Easy: Worked in the round, some pieces sewn together, some embroidery.
Size
About 2.5 inches in diameter, not counting ears.
Gauge
12 sc x 13 rounds = 4 inches
Use pattern as gauge swatch – After rnd 4, back circle should measure about 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical. Your fabric should be tight enough that the magnet won’t show through.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, then sc in both loops of same st. This counts as two stitches in the end of round stitch counts.
See this tutorial for a more detailed look.
Instructions
Join rounds where indicated with a slip stitch in the first stitch of the round. Slip stitches are not included in stitch counts unless otherwise specified. Mark first stitch of rounds if desired. Do not turn your work unless indicated.
Back
Back Circle
With brown, ch 2.
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) around, join. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around, join. (24 sts)
Do not fasten off.
Work should now measure about 2.25 inches in diameter.
Back Ears
Row 1 (RS): Sk first st, [sc in next st, (sc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, sc) in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next st] twice, leave remaining 15 sts unworked. (2 ears)
Fasten off, leaving a 24 inch tail for sewing.
Weave in the shorter, starting tail.
Magnet
Using hot glue gun, glue magnet to center of back circle, on the WS of work.
Set back piece aside.
Front
Front Circle
With red, ch 2.
Rnds 1-2: With red, repeat rnds 1-2 of back circle. At the end of rnd 2, change to brown and cut red, leaving a tail to weave in. (12 sc)
Rnds 3-4: With brown, repeat rnds 3-4 of back circle. (24 sts)
Front Ears
Row 1 (RS): Repeat row 1 of back ears.
Fasten off
Weave in tails and set front aside.
Eyes (Make 2)
Rnd 1 (RS): With white, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st to first st. (6 sc)
On one eye, fasten off leaving an 18 inch tail for sewing. On the other eye, fasten off as normal.
Assembly
Face
Using the pictures as a guide:
Use the long tail from one eye to sew both eyes to front.
With orange, embroider a beak just below the eyes.
With black, make a small stitch or french knot in the center of each eye.
Weave in all ends.
Join Front and Back
Place the front and back together so that wrong sides are together with ears lined up. The magnet should be hidden between them.
Use the long brown tail from the back to sew the front and back together, working just under the tops of the stitches along the outside edge.
Weave in any remaining tails.
Tufts
Cut a 4-inch length of red and fold it in half to form a loop. Insert hook, from to back, through both layers, at the tip of one ear. Pull the loop through until you have about a half-inch loop on the front.
Pull the red ends through the loop and tighten.
Trim ends to about 1/2 inch. Use a yarn needle to separate the ends into individual strands and fluff them out.
Repeat for the other ear.
Owl Fridge Magnet Video Tutorial
Watch This Video on YouTube
Rate this Owl Fridge Magnet Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this owl fridge magnet pattern. Big thanks to Karen Navoy for testing it!
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