Crochet Socks Pattern – Walking on Clouds

Treat your feet to these super soft, cushy, socks! This crochet socks pattern is great for first time sock crocheters, because it has a simple construction that works up quickly. With a stretchy cuff, squishy yarn, and roomy fit, you’ll feel like you’re walking on clouds.

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Hand Dyed Sock Set

Global Backyard Industries sent me some of their new sock yarn for free for this design. They always have something fun and new to try out! Their new sock yarn is a superwash merino/nylon blend and comes in a series of hand-dyed, coral and indigo shades. These colorways are made exclusively for Global Backyard Industries by Summit Rd Fibers.

For my socks I used the Speckled Cake and Indigo Mini sock set. The speckled white cake has patches of lighter shading as well as the strong speckles. Combined with the soft feel, this made me think of a sky full of fluffy clouds, and that’s where the Walking on Clouds name came from.

There are a few other color combinations to choose from and you can also buy the cakes separately, as well as sets of only minis. I really like the look of the Deep Coral cake, which shifts through blue and grey to a vibrant coral shade. That one also comes with the Indigo mini.

The 1 mini skein was just enough to do the toes, heel, and a few rows of ribbing on my large size pair of socks.

A Matching Bag!

Global Backyard also sent me a free zippered pouch. This is one of my favorite things about this line of yarns – they also have a line of bags that are specifically dyed to match the yarn! The one they sent me is a beautiful shade of deep indigo, almost black, fading to white at the top. They have other color combinations, designs, and sizes, all designed to coordinate with the yarn.

While I was working on the socks, I used the pouch as a project bag. Now that they’re done, I may use it as a clutch when I wear them. So make a pair of socks, a shawl, or any other accessory from this yarn, and you can buy a matching bag to carry when you wear it! How neat is that?

Afterthought Construction

This is the first time I have designed a crochet socks pattern. For the construction, I looked to my favorite style of knit socks – toe up with an “afterthought” heel. An afterthought heel is when you knit or crochet the whole rest of the sock, leaving an opening for the heel to be put in later – as an afterthought.

Since it works so well for heels, I thought I would try doing an afterthought toe as well. In crochet socks, unlike knit socks, this makes the toe and heel effectively removable. In fact, you can work this pattern as yoga socks, with no toe and heel at all! You can also replace them easily if they get worn out, without having to remake the entire sock.

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Walking on Clouds

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Materials

• 1 Sock Set from Global Backyard Industries – 85% superwash merino / 15% nylon. Set includes:
  • 437 yds / 400 m / 100 g cake – Speckled (A)
  • 87 yds / 80 m / 20 g mini skein – Indigo (B)
• Size G / 4 mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
• 1-2 stitch markers
• Tapestry needle
• Scrap of yarn (about 1 yd) to use as running stitch marker (optional)

Project Level

Intermediate: Continuous rounds, working into bottom and sides of stitches, decreases.

Size

S [M, L]. To fit women’s shoe sizes 6-7 [8-9, 10-11] with a foot circumference of 7 [8, 9] inches. Instructions are given for size small, with changes for medium, and large in [ ].

Gauge

19 dc x 13 rounds = 4 inches when worked in continuous rounds. Gauge is important for a good fit, take time to check gauge. You can use the foot part of the pattern as a gauge swatch.

Abbreviations used

(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
fphdc = front post half double crochet
bphdc = back post half double crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
dec = invisible decrease (see Special Stitch)
sk = skip
RS = right side
WS = wrong side

Recommended Resources

• Continuous Rounds and Running Stitch Markers
• Front and Back Post Stitch Crochet by Jessie at Home
• Mattress Stitch Seaming from Moogly

Special Stitch

Invisible decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook.

This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.

Instructions

Foot and Cuff are worked in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark first stitch of rounds – see this tutorial for using running stitch markers.

Foot:

Foundation: With A, ch 30 [34, 38] loosely. Being careful not to twist, join with sl st to form a circle.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in first st, hdc in next st, dc in each remaining st around. (30 [34, 38] hdc)

Rnds 2-15 [18, 21]: Dc in each st around.

Cuff:

Rnd 1: Ch 1, hdc in next 14 [16, 18]sts, place a marker in next st on foot, hdc in marked st, ch 15 [17, 19], sk next 15 [17, 19] sts. (15 [17, 19] hdc, 15 [17, 19] chs)

Rnd 2: Hdc in next st, (hdc in blo of next st, hdc in next st) 7 [8, 9] times, hdc in each ch around. (30 [34, 38] hdc)

Rnds 3-24: (Hdc in next st, hdc in blo of next st) around.

Rnd 25: (Hdc in next st, hdc in blo of next st) around to last 2 sts, sc in next st, sl st in next st, fasten off. (30 [34, 38] sts)

Heel, Toe, and Cuff Edging are worked in turned rounds. Join rounds as indicated with a sl st in the first stitch of the round.

Heel

With right side facing, join B with sl st in marked st on foot.

Rnd 1: Sc in same st, sc in each skipped st on foot, sc in next st on foot, sc in side of row on cuff, mark last st worked, sc in bottom of each ch on cuff, sc in side of row on cuff, join. (34 [38, 42] sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, (dec, sc in next 15 [17, 19] sts) twice, join. (32 [36, 40] sts)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, turn, (sc in next 14 [16, 18] sts, dec) twice, join. (30 [34, 38] sts)

Rnd 5: Repeat rnd 3

Rnd 6: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in next 13 [15, 17] sts, place marker in last st worked, dec, sc in next 11 [13, 15] sts, join. (28 [32, 36] sts)

Rnds 7-8 [9, 9]: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in each st to marker, move marker to last st worked, dec, sc in remaining sts, join. (24 [26, 30] sts)

Rnds 10-12 [12, 13] 10-12, 12, 13: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in each st to marker, move marker to last st worked, dec twice, sc in each st to last 2 sts, dec, join. (12 [14, 14] sts)

Fasten off, leaving an 8 inch tail. Remove marker.

Toe

Lay sock flat as shown below, so that heel is centered. Place a stitch marker in the stitch on the last row of the foot that lines up directly with the side edge of the heel (either side). This will become the side edge of the toe.

Rnd 1: Join B with a sl st in marked stitch, sc in each st around, join, remove marker. (30 [34, 38] sts)

Rnd 2 [2-4, 2-4]: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join.

Rnd 3 [5, 5]: Ch 1, turn, (dec, sc in next 13 [15, 17] sts) twice, join. (28 [32, 36] sts)

Rnd 4 [6, 6]: Repeat rnd 2

Size L only:
Rnd 5: Ch 1, turn, (sc in next 12 [14, 16] sts, dec) twice, join. (26 [30, 34] sts)

Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 2

All Sizes:
Rnd 7: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in next 12 [14, 15] sts, place marker in last st worked, dec, sc in next 12 [14, 15] sts, join. (26 [30, 32] sts)

Rnd(s) 8 [8-9, 8-10]: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in each st to marker, move marker to last st worked, dec, sc in remaining sts, join. (24 [26, 26] sts)

Rnds 9-11 [10-12, 11-13]: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc in each st to marker, move marker to last st worked, dec twice, sc in each st to last 2 sts, dec, join. (12 [14, 14] sts)

Fasten off, leaving an 8 inch tail. Remove marker.

Cuff Edging

Join B with sl st in any stitch on cuff.

Rnd 1: Sc in each st around.

Rnds 2-3: Ch 1, (fphdc around next st, bphdc around next st) around, join with sl st to first st.

Finishing

Use tails to sew toe and heel closed. I recommend a mattress stitch because it is relatively flat and invisible – see this great mattress stitch tutorial from Moogly.

Weave in all ends and remove any remaining stitch markers.

Wash and block for best results.

I hope you enjoy making this crochet socks pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

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