12 inch Crochet Square – Twists and Turns
Forwards, backwards, and round and round – work around this 12 inch crochet square in all different directions! The bold color blocking and rich texture are an eye catching addition to any decor. With lots of twists and turns in the pattern, it’s fun to make too!
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Moogly 2020 Afghan CAL
This pattern was designed for the Moogly 2020 afghan CAL. If this is the first you’ve heard about it, go check it out! Also be sure to take a look at the block 10 post to see how Moogly’s version of this square turned out.
Red Heart With Love Yarn
Yarnspirations was kind enough to send me the Red Heart With Love yarn for free for this design. I chose bright, tropical colors because I feel like I could use a tropical vacation right now, don’t you? I love how soft this yarn is to work with, and the bright colors don’t bleed or fade when I wash them!
From Corner to Corner
The inside portion of this square is worked from corner to corner. Most often, when people say “corner to corner” or “c2c”, they are talking about diagonal box stitch. But there are a surprising array of stitches that can be worked from corner to corner. This particular c2c design uses double crochet and crab stitch to create the ridged texture.
Stitch Markers Can Help!
For the center portion of the square, it can sometimes be difficult to find the front and back loops of the first and last stitch. Emily R. came up with a great solution! After every double crochet row, place a stitch marker in the back loop of the first stitch and of the last stitch. That makes the front loops much easier to find for the next row!
Twists and Turns Crochet Square
Materials
- Yarn: Red Heart With Love worsted weight, acrylic yarn. 150 yds each of:
- #1701 Hot Pink (pink)
- #1803 Blue Hawaii (blue)
- #140 Pewter (grey)
- Hook: Size J / 6 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Stitch Marker
Project Level
Intermediate: Crossed stitches, reverse single crochet, increases, decreases, and working in different directions.
Size
12 inches square.
Gauge
12 dc x 8 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch – Rows 1 – 10 should measure 4 inches on each short edge.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
rsc = reverse single crochet (see Special Stitches)
flo = front loop(s) only
blo = back loop(s) only
dc(*)tog = double crochet decreases (see Special Stitches)
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
ch sp = chain space
rnd = round
WS = wrong side
RS = right side
Special Stitches
Double crochet decreases (Dc(*)tog): This is a decrease where you work the next * number of stitches together. This could be a dc2tog, dc3tog, or dc4tog.
(Yarn over, insert hook into next st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook) the indicated number of times (2, 3, or 4), yarn over and pull through all (3, 4, or 5) loops on hook.
Reverse Single Crochet / Crab Stitch (rsc): Working from left to right, sc in each indicated stitch. Working in this direction causes the stitches to twist, creating a rope-like design. See a full tutorial here.
Recommended Resources
- Chainless Starting Double Crochet (csdc) from Moogly
- Working in front loop only or back loop only
- Crab Stitch / Reverse Single Crochet
- Working into the back bump
- Almost invisible increase
- Double Crochet 3 Together (dc3tog)
- Mattress Stitch Seaming from Moogly
- Working Evenly Across / Around
Instructions
Pink Triangle
Ch 3 at the start of a row counts as a dc throughout, including the first 3 chs on row 1. If you know / prefer the Chainless Starting Double Crochet (csdc) you can use that instead. This entire section is worked on the right side, do not turn your work.
Row 1: Ch 4, 4 dc in 4th ch from hook. (5 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, rsc in flo of each st across. (5 sts)
Row 3: Working into the unused back loops from the previous (dc) row, sl st in blo of first st, ch 3, 2 dc in blo of same st, dc in blo of each st across to last st, 3 dc in blo of last st. (9 sts)
Rows 4-19: Rep rows 2-3 8 times more, fasten off pink. (41 sts)
With RS facing, join grey with sl st in flo of last st from row 19.
Row 20: Rep row 2.
Blue Triangle
Ch 2 at the start of a row does not count as a st. This entire section is worked on the right side, do not turn your work.
With RS facing, join blue with sl st in unused blo of first st from row 19.
Row 21: Working into the unused back loops from the previous (dc) row, ch 2, sk first st, dc2tog in blo, dc in blo of each st across to last 3 sts, dc3tog in blo. (37 sts)
Row 22: Rep row 2.
Row 23: Working into the unused back loops from the previous (dc) row, sl st in blo of first st, ch 2, dc2tog in blo, dc in blo of each st across to last 3 sts, dc3tog in blo. (33 sts)
Rows 24-38: Rep rows 22-23 8 times more, then repeat row 22 once more. (5 sts)
Row 39: Working into the unused back loops from the previous (dc) row, ch 2, sk first st, dc4tog in blo, fasten off blue. (1 st)
Pink & Blue Edging:
With RS facing, join blue with sl st at base of first st from Row 21.
Blue sides: Working in sides of blue rows only, ch 1, sc in corner, (2 sc in each dc row, sk each rsc row) across to corner, (sc, ch 1, sc) in corner, (2 sc, in each dc row, sk each rsc row) across to next corner, sc in next corner, ch 1 changing to pink, fasten off blue. (44 sc, 2 ch-1 sps)
Pink sides: Working in sides of pink rows only, ch 1, sc in corner, (2 sc in each dc row, sk each rsc row) across to corner, (sc, ch 1, sc) in corner, (2 sc, in each dc row, sk each rsc row) across to next corner, sc in next corner, ch 1, join with sl st to first st of round, fasten off pink. (44 sc, 2 ch-1 sps)
Your square should now measure approximately 9 inches across. If it is slightly too big, scroll down and try the alternate, narrow border instead. If it is too small, you can add extra edging rounds at the end.
Border:
Pick up working loop of grey yarn and place it back on hook. Ch 1, sl st into nearest corner ch-1 sp of edging.
Border is worked in rows, perpendicular to the main portion of the square. It is connected to the pink and blue edging with slip stitches as you go, and then sewn closed at the end. You will now be turning your work with each row. Rows 1, 21, 41, and 61 create the 4 corners of the square.
Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a dc.
Ch 6
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (5 sc)
Row 2: Sl st in starting ch-1 sp on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, dc in next st, tr in last st. (1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr)
Row 3: Ch 3, turn, sk next 2 sts, tr in each of the next 2 sts, tr in each of the 2 skipped sts. (1 dc, 4 tr cross)
Row 4: Sl st in starting ch-1 sp on edging, sl st in blo of next st on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sc)
Row 5: Ch 3, turn, sk next 2 sts, tr in each of the next 2 sts, tr in each of the 2 skipped sts. (1 dc, 4 tr cross)
Row 6: Sk next st on edging, sl st in blo of each of next 2 sts on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sc)
Rows 7-19: Repeat rows 5-6 6 times, then repeat row 5 once more.
Row 20: Sl st in next ch-1 sp on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, dc in next st, tr in last st. (1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr)
Row 21: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sc)
Row 22: Sl st in same ch-1 sp on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, dc in next st, tr in last st. (1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr)
Row 23-80: Rep rows 3-22 twice more, then repeat rows 3-20 once more. Join with sl st into bottom of first sc of row 1 (outside corner). Do not fasten off.
Grey edging:
Working into sides of rows around border, ch 1, (3 sc in corner, work 32 sc evenly spaced to next corner) 4 times, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off, leaving an 8 inch tail for sewing.
If you need to add extra edging rounds, sc across to each corner stitch, and work 3 sc in each corner.
Finishing
Using long grey tail, sew the border closed with a mattress stitch, joining the top of row 80 to the bottom of row 1.
Weave in all ends.
Alternate, Narrower Border
If your center square is a bit too big, try this border INSTEAD of the one above.
Pick up working loop of grey yarn and place it back on hook. Ch 1, sl st into nearest corner ch-1 sp of edging.
Border is worked in rows, perpendicular to the main portion of the square. It is connected to the pink and blue edging with slip stitches as you go and then sewn closed at the end. You will now be turning your work with each row. Rows 1, 21, 41, and 61 create the 4 corners of the square.
Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a dc.
Ch 4
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (3 sc)
Row 2: Sl st in starting ch-1 sp on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st. (1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc)
Row 3: Ch 3, turn, sk next st, tr in next st, tr in skipped st. (1 dc, 2 tr cross)
Row 4: Sl st in starting ch-1 sp on edging, sl st in blo of next st on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sc)
Row 5: Ch 3, turn, sk next st, tr in next st, tr in skipped st.. (1 dc, 2 tr cross)
Row 6: Sk next st on edging, sl st in blo of each of next 2 sts on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sc)
Rows 7-19: Repeat rows 5-6 6 times, then repeat row 5 once more.
Row 20: Sl st in next ch-1 sp on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st. (1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc)
Row 21: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sc)
Row 22: Sl st in same ch-1 sp on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st. (1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc)
Row 23-80: Rep rows 3-22 twice more, then repeat rows 3-20 once more. Join with sl st into bottom of first sc of row 1 (outside corner). Do not fasten off.
Continue with grey edging and finishing as above.
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5 Comments
Alexandra
What a fun square! I love all the texture in there.
Theresa
Thank you for a really fun and unique pattern!
Pia Thadani
🙂 I’m glad you like it!
Maria
Hi! I love this square! Thanks for the pattern.
By the way, the Ravelry links are not working.
Pia Thadani
Thanks, and thanks for the heads up! I fixed the links.