Free Pattern – Non-stop slippers- Adult sizes
These boxy-toe slippers are worked all in one piece, never needing to break the yarn until you’re finished (unless you want to incorporate more colors). The sole is worked first, with the rest of the slipper built up from there, which makes it easy to add a 2nd sole for extra padding if desired.
These slippers can also be a great blank canvas for your creativity – make them your own by working different sections in different colors, adding a drawstring around the ankle, or adding your favorite embellishments!
The Non-Stop Slippers pattern is available in a total of 9 sizes, from infant all the way up to adult, so you can make a pair for everyone! This post contains the instructions for the adult sizes (s, m, l, xl). Follow these links for the child sizes (s, m, l) and the baby sizes (0-6 mo, 6-12 mo).
This pattern was designed for the #HolidayStashdownCAL2015. Check out this post for official rules and links!
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Non-Stop Slippers – Adult Sizes
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Materials:
- Worsted weight yarn: 150 – 250 yds
- Size H / 8 (5 mm) hook or size needed to achieve gauge
- Yarn or tapestry needle
- Locking stitch marker
Difficulty:
Intermediate – front and back post stitches, decreases, and changing direction of work to create 3 dimensions.
Sizes:
Instructions are written for small, with changes for medium, large, and xl in ( ). If possible, find the right size by measuring the length of the wearer’s foot or of a well fitting shoe, and choosing the size closest to that measurement. If you’re measuring the foot, be sure to add a little “wiggle room”. Sole should measure approximately 8.5 (9.5, 10.5, 11.5) inches long and 3.25 (3.75, 3.75, 4.25) inches wide at the widest point.
Gauge:
14 sc x 15 rows = 4″ square
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- fsc = foundation single crochet
- sc = single crochet
- fphdc = front post half double crochet
- bphdc = back post half double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- fp sl st = front post slip stitch
- bp sl st = back post slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources:
- Foundation Single Crochet (fsc) – by Moogly
- Single Crochet Decrease Stitch (sc2tog) – by Articles of A Domestic Goddess
- Invisible Single Crochet Decrease (sc2tog – alternate version) – by The Hooked Haberdasherer
- Front Post / Back Post slip stitches (fp sl st / bp sl st) – by me!
- Front/Back Post Half Double Crochet (fphdc / bphdc) – by Articles of a Domestic Goddess
Sole Options:
- The sole is worked from heel to toe and is the same for both feet. For a basic slipper / slipper sock, follow instructions as written. This is a good option if you want more of a sock-like feel, or if you want to attach a sewn on, outer sole (like leather or suede soles you can buy at the store).
- For a thicker, cushier sole, make an extra pair of soles and sew the 2nd (outer) sole on at the end. With this option, you may need a 2nd skein of yarn for the larger sizes. This is a good option if you want to add a painted on, non-skid finish. You can add your chosen finish to the outer sole before sewing it on, so the inner sole stays soft and clean.
Note:
“In-progress” pictures show child size slipper.
Sole:
Row 1: Work 6 fsc, OR ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. [6 sc]
Row 2 [RS]: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 2sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2sc in last st [8 sc]
Rows 4-5: Repeat rows 2-3 [10 sc]
Rows 6-11: Repeat row 2
Row 12: Repeat row 2 (3, 3, 3) [10 (12, 12, 12) sc]
Rows 13-18: Repeat row 2
Row 19: Repeat row 2 (2, 2, 3) [10 (12, 12, 14) sc]
Rows 20-27 (29, 33, 35): Repeat row 2
Row 28 (30, 34, 36): Ch 1, turn, sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog over last 2 sts. [8 (10, 10, 12 sts)]
Row 29-30 (31-34, 35-38, 37-42): Repeat the last 2 rows one (two, two, three) more times. [6sc]
Rnd 31 (35, 39, 43): Ch 1, do NOT turn. Working into sides of rows along edge of sole, work 28 (32, 36, 40) sc evenly spaced to the bottom corner. Working along bottom of row 1, 3sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, 3 sc in last st. Working into sides of rows, work 28 (32, 36, 40) sc evenly spaced to top corner. Working into last row, 3 sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, 3 sc in last st, join with sl st to first st of round. Do NOT fasten off. [76 (84, 92, 100) sc]
Place your foot on the sole. The sole should be about the same size as your foot, and no part of your foot should be hanging over the edges. Adjust to a larger/smaller hook, or larger/smaller pattern size if needed before continuing.
Sides:
Rnd 1 [RS]: Do NOT turn, bphdc around each st around, join with sl st to first st. [76 (84, 92, 100) sc]
Rnds 2-3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first st. Do NOT fasten off.
Instep:
Row 1 [WS]: Turn, sk first st, sc in next 8 sts, fp sl st around each of next 2 sts, leaving remaining sts unworked. [8sc]
Row 2: Turn, skip sl sts, sc in each sc across, bp sl st around each of next 2 unworked sts from sides.
Row 3: Turn, skip sl sts, sc in each sc across, fp sl st around each of next 2 unworked sts from sides.
Row 4: Turn, skip sl sts, 2 sc in next sc, sc in each sc across to last sc, 2sc in last sc, bp sl st around each of next 2 unworked sts from sides. [10 sc]
Rows N/A (5-6, 5-6, 5-8): Repeat rows 3 & 4 zero (one, one, two) times more [10, (12, 12, 14) sc]
Note: the “N/A” and “zero times more” in the above set of rows means the instructions are not worked at all for the small size.
Rows 5-16 (7-18, 7-20, 9-22): Repeat row 3, then repeat rows 2 & 3 five (five, six, six) times more, then repeat row 2 once more.
Row 17 (19, 21, 23): Turn, skip sl sts, sc in each sc across, fp sl st around next unworked st from sides, do not fasten off.
Ankle:
Rnd 1 [RS]: Ch 1, turn, sk sl st, sc in each sc across instep, mark last st, sc in each unworked st from sides, join with sl st to first st. [44, (50, 54, 60) sc]
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc to 2 sts before marker, sc2tog over next 2 sts, remove marker, sc in next 10 (12, 12, 14) sts, join with sl st to first st. [42, (48, 52, 58) sc]
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 10 (12, 12, 14) sts, mark last st worked, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc around to last 2 sts, sc2tog over last 2 sts, join with sl st to first st. [40, (46, 50, 56) sc]
Rnds 4-5 (7, 9, 11): Repeat rnds 2 & 3 one (two, three, four) times more. [36, (38, 38, 40) sc]
Cuff:
Rnd 1: Do NOT turn, ch 2 (counts as bphdc), fphdc around next st, [bphdc around next st, fphdc around next st] around, join with sl st to first st.
Rnds 2-4 (5, 5): Do NOT turn, ch 2 (counts as bphdc), fphdc around next fphdc, [bphdc around next bphdc, fphdc around next fphdc] around, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off.
Note: for a longer cuff, repeat last rnd to desired length.
Finishing:
- Weave in ends
- Add extra soles and/or non-skid finishes as desired (see sole options above)
- Add embellishments as desired.
I hope you enjoy the pattern – remember it’s available in child sizes and baby sizes too! Big thanks to silphi, LinMarie and craftyvic for testing this pattern.
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20 Comments
kathrynpless1
This is exactly what I was looking for to crochet for my son! Thanks so much for sharing this!
Lin
No joke I’ve been crocheting these slippers non stop for the Pink Slipper Project since finding this pattern. They’re quick, have a fun construction that keeps me from getting bored and only one end to weave in. Thank you so much for this pattern!
Pia Thadani
That’s awesome to hear! I’m so glad you like them 🙂
Leiann
great pattern and very easy to follow 🙂 i think that the first row of the instep is supposed to be fp sl st not bp sl st 🙂
Leiann
the 4th row as well should be bp sl st nor fp sl st 🙂
Pia Thadani
Ok just looked at it, and you are absolutely correct! Thanks for finding the mistake, I will correct it right now 🙂
Kayla Tiller
It says size H hook, which is 5mm, but in brackets it says 4.25mm. Just wondering which size is correct?
Pia Thadani
Oops! 5mm is correct (remember to check your gauge in case you need a different size though). I will change it. Thanks for the catch 🙂
Lynda
Rows 20-27 (29, 33, 35): Repeat row 2 please explain this row can’t under stand what it means
Pia Thadani
Row 2 says to sc in each stitch, so you just do that for the number of rows indicated. So like for the smallest size you would do 8 rows of sc (rows 20-27). For the next larger size, it’s rows 30-29, so that’s 10 rows, etc. Hope that helps!
Lynda
Thank you I think I under stand now
Lynda
Row 2: Turn, skip sl sts, sc in each sc across, bp sl st around each of next 2 unworked sts from sides. Can’t understand dose this men to crochet all the way to the last 8 sets on the opposite side?
Pia Thadani
On the previous row, you worked 8 sc, then two sl sts. Now on this row you skip those two sl sts, work sc into those 8 sc, then work 2 sl sts.
You’re basically working back and forth across the toes, joining each row to the sides with sl sts as you go.
Lynda
Thank you so much you are a very nice person have a great day
Pia Thadani
aww thanks! 🙂 I’m glad it worked out for you – can’t wait to see your finished slippers!
Louise
Great pattern, was looking for this a loooooong time. Thanks for sharing.
Pia Thadani
Yay I’m glad you found it!!! 🙂
Sherri Fussner
I am new to crochet, Im doing well but not sure what you mean by this: Repeat row 2 (3, 3, 3) [10 (12, 12, 12) sc]I know repeat row 2 but what does (3,3,3) (10(12,12,12)?
Pia Thadani
The numbers in the brackets refer to the different sizes. So if you were doing a small, you would repeat row 2 and have 10 sc. If you were doing any other size, you would repeat row 3 and have 12 sc. You can see the explanation of this, along with the measurements for each size, under “Sizes” at the top of the pattern 🙂
Sherri Fussner
thank you now I get it