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Frame your gift in a Crochet Frame Gift Card Holder! Add a personal touch to your gift cards with this quick and easy frame. You can also hang it as an ornament, use the bonus printable inserts for gift tags, or make a solid front for a more traditional holder.
If you prefer, you can use this pattern to crochet a solid gift card holder without the frame. Simply make 2 of the solid back pieces, and use one for the front!
You can also decorate your gift card holder as you choose. Skip the lacing and bow, add beads, buttons, or other embellishments, or leave it plain for classic simplicity. The choice is yours!
Reverse Single Crochet / Crab Stitch
The reverse single crochet / crab stitch around this crochet frame gift card holder does double duty as an edging and a seam. Learn more about this fun technique in this Crab Stitch / Reverse Single Crochet Tutorial
On the last row, both the solid and window pieces should have 13 sc across each long side, 9 sc across each short side, and ch 2 spaces in each corner.
When joining, I like to clip the pieces together in the corners with locking stitch markers, safety pins, or other clips. That holds them in place and makes the joining easier.
Rnd 1 (RS): ([Sc, ch 2] twice, sc) in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 3 chs, ([sc, ch 2] twice, sc) in next ch, working in bottom of chs, sc in next 3 chs, join with sl st to first sc. (5 sc across each long edge, 1 sc across each short edge; 12 sc in total, 4 corner ch-2 sps)
Rnds 2-5: Ch 1, [sc in each st across to next corner ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in sp] 4 times, sc in each rem st around, join with sl st to first st, fasten off. (13 sc across each long edge, 9 sc across each short edge; 44 sc in total, 4 corner ch-2 sps)
Front
Optional: For a solid Gift Card Holder without the framed opening, skip this section and instead repeat Back.
With MC, ch 35.
Rnd 1 (RS): Working in back bumps of chs, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 8 chs, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch, sc in next 5 chs, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch, sc in next 9 chs, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch, sc in next 5 chs, (sc, ch 2, sc) in last ch, join with sl st to first sc. (11 sc across each long edge, 7 sc across each short edge; 36 sc in total, 4 corner ch-2 sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, [sc in each st across to next corner ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in sp] 4 times, sc in last st, join with sl st to first st, fasten off. (13 sc across each long edge, 9 sc across each short edge; 44 sc in total, 4 corner ch-2 sps)
Edging:
Place Front on top of Back with WS together so that either long edge is on top. Working through both layers, join B with sl st in top left corner ch-2 sp, ready to work reverse sc across long edge.
Closed Sides Edging/Seam: Working through both layers and beginning with long edge, sc in same sp as join, [reverse sc in each st across to next corner ch-2 sp, reverse sc in sp] 3 times, do not fasten off. (39 reverse sc)
Open Side Edging: Turn work so Back is facing and short, open edge is on top. Working around open edge, 11 sc evenly spaced across Back, 11 sc evenly spaced across Front, join with sl st in first sc, fasten off. (22 sc)
Finishing
Weave in all ends before continuing.
Hanging Loop
Cut a 12″ / 30 cm piece of B and fold in half. Tie a secure knot 1/2″ / 1.5 cm below folded end, leaving a small loop above the knot. Place knot at center of either long edge and weave in ends to secure.
Lacing and Bow
Cut a 12″ / 30 cm piece of B. Beginning at desired corner for bow, use tapestry needle to weave yarn in and out of sts of Rnd 1 around entire opening. Tie ends in a bow and trim as desired.
If you worked a solid Front, weave lacing through Rnd 4 of Front.
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I hope you enjoy this Crochet Frame Gift Card Holder pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee.
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NOTE: Your feedback matters! Feedback from several users has indicated that the sizing on this pattern was coming out too small. The pattern has now been updated (11/6/15) to increase the sizing for all three sizes, and also to increase the difference in sizing between the 3 sizes. If you purchased a pdf download of this pattern, you should soon receive an updated version.
I had originally posted this just over a year ago, but it was buried in another post celebrating my 100th post. This has since become one of my more popular patterns, and I thought it deserved it’s own post. I hope you enjoy it!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
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Intermediate – crocodile stitches, and front/back post double crochet stitches.
Size:
0-6mo, [6-12mo,12-24mo]. Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses.
Gauge Swatch:
4″ square = 30 sts x 16 rows in pattern as follows:
Row 1: Ch 32, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (31 hdc).
Rows 2-16: Ch 2 (counts as bphdc), turn, (fphdc around next st, bphdc around next st) across.
When measuring, ignore one of the edge stitches (30 stitches should measure 4″, but ribbing pattern requires odd # of stitches)
Abbreviations used:
RS = right side
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
sk = skip
sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together
fphdc = front post half double crochet bphdc = back post half double crochet V = V stitch – see special stitches
Special Stitches:
V stitch (V): (hdc, ch1, hdc) in next st.
Scale: Work 4 hdc around first post of V stitch, ch 1, turn work 90 degrees counterclockwise, work 4 hdc around 2nd post of V stitch. (See Fig 1 below or view Crocodile Stitch Tutorial)
Fig. 1
Notes:
The hat pictured was made with Patons Kroy Socks 4 Ply in the Green Striped Ragg colorway.
Ch 2 at beginning of ribbing rows counts as bphdc throughout.
When working in ch space of skipped V stitches (odd rows from 3-9 of crocodile stitch, row 4 of edging), insert hook through both the ch space of the V and the space between the scales in front of the V. (See Crocodile Stitch Tutorial)
Based on pattern feedback, some crocheters are having a hard time achieving the row gauge and are ending up with a hat that is too shallow. If your row gauge isn’t coming out right, feel free to add or remove rows in the ribbing section as needed, being sure to end with a wrong side row.
Row 1 (WS, RS, WS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (92 [104, 116] hdc).
Row 2-19 [22, 25]: Ch 2 (counts as bphdc), turn, fphdc around 2nd st, (bphdc around next st, fphdc around next st) across.
Work should now measure 4.75 [5.5, 6.25] inches tall. If you need to, you can add more repeats, being sure to end with a wrong side row.
Next Row: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 9 [7, 9] sts, (sc2tog, sc in next 7 [9, 10] sts) 8 times, sc2tog, sc in last 9 [8, 9] st. Do NOT fasten off. (83 [95, 107] sts)
Crocodile Stitch:
Row 1: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, sk next st, (V, sk next 2 sts) repeat across to last 3 sts, V in next st, sk next st, hdc in last st. (27 [31, 35] V stitches, 2 hdc)
Row 2: Turn, sl st in first hdc, (work scale around next V, skip next V) 13 [15, 17] times, work scale around last V, sl st in last st. (14 [16, 18] scales)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, (V in center of next scale, V in skipped V) 13 [15, 17] times, V in center of last scale, hdc in last st. (27 [31, 35] V stitches, 2 hdc)
Row 4: Turn, sl st in first 2 hdc and in ch space of first V, (work scale around next V, skip next V) 12 [14, 15] times, work scale in next V, sl st in ch space of last V and in last 2 hdc. (13 [15, 17] scales)
Row 5: Ch 2, turn, (V in skipped V, V in center of next scale) 13 [15, 17] times, V in last skipped V, hdc in last st. (27 [31, 35] V stitches, 2 hdc)
Row 6-10: Repeat Rows 2 – 5, then repeat row 2 once more.
Do NOT fasten off – secure loop with stitch marker or safety pin as you will need to pick it up again for the next section.
Fold work in half, with right sides together, so that Row 10 forms the front of the hat. Sew back seam. Turn hat right-side-out again.
Bottom Edging:
Pick up loop from last stitch of previous section, and turn work so you are now working in the sides of the rows along the bottom:
Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, work 83 [95, 107] sc evenly spaced along sides of rows.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across.
Row 3: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across. Do NOT finish off.
Front Edging:
Turn work so you are now working in the sides of the rows of bottom edging, and across row 10 of the Crocodile stitch section.
Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in side of row 3, sc in side of row 2, sc in side of row 1, sc in next st, (3 sc in center of next scale, 3 sc in next skipped V stitch) 13 [15, 17] times, 3 sc in center of last scale, sc in next st, sc in side of row 1, sc in side of row 2, 2 sc side of row 3, join with sl st to 1st st of row 3, turn, do NOT fasten off. (91 [103, 115] sc).
Ties:
This is for basic ties, see notes below for variations. The hat pictured is made with option 3.
First tie: Sl st in next 2 st, ch 45, sc in each ch, sl st in same st last sl st, fasten off.
Second tie: Join with sl st in 3rd st of row 4, ch 45, sc in each ch, sl st in same st as last sl st, fasten off.
Variations for Ties:
Option 1: basic tie with tassel
First tie: Sl st in next 2 st, ch 50, sc in 6th ch from hook and in each ch across, sl st in same st last sl st, finish off.
Second tie: Join with sl st in 3rd st of row 4, ch 50, sc in 6th ch from hook and in each ch across, sl st in same st as last sl st, fasten off.
Tassels: Cut 10, 4 inch pieces of yarn. Using 5 pieces for each tassel make a tassel in the chain loop at the end of each tie. [Fig 2]
Fig. 2
Note: the following options require knowledge of foundation sc. If you are not familiar with this technique, check out the tutorial in the Recommended Resources section above.
Option 2: Foundation sc [fsc]
First tie: Sl st in next 2 st, work 45 fsc, fasten off.
Second tie: Join with sl st in 3rd st of row 4, work 45 fsc, fasten off.
Option 3: Foundation sc [fsc] with tassels
First tie: Sl st in next 2 st, work 45 fsc, ch5, sl st in base of last fsc, fasten off.
Second tie: Join with sl st in 3rd st of row 4, work 45 fsc, ch5, sl st in base of last fsc, fasten off.
Tassels: Cut 10, 4 inch long pieces of yarn. Using 5 pieces each, attach a tassel to the chain loop at the end of each tie. [Fig 2]
I hope you enjoy the pattern!
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Twinkle, Twinkle, 2-Round Star Crochet Pattern
This simple crochet star pattern makes a great embellishment for headbands, hats, or just about anything else. With only 2 rounds, it couldn’t be easier! The pattern includes instructions for a 5-pointed star and a 6-pointed star.
You can use any yarn or thread of your choice for this star crochet pattern. Smaller threads will make tiny stars, and larger yarn will make bigger stars. Use whatever hook you are comfortable with for your chosen yarn or thread.
Washing and Blocking
Blocking is important to keep your stars from curling. Wet your finished star thoroughly, then lay it flat to dry, pinning the points into shape.
If you’re going to be sewing the star to something else, going all the way around the edge, blocking may not be entirely necessary. But it’s still helpful to keep your star nice and flat while you sew.
Stiffen your stars
Try using a commercial fabric stiffener to stiffen your stars. Simply follow the instructions on the bottle. Stiffened stars make great jewelry or ornaments! You can also use them to decorate holiday gifts.
Rnd 2: [Ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, ch 3, sl st in next sc] 5 times, ending in the same sc you started in.
Fasten off; weave in ends; wash and block.
6 pointed star:
Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.
Rnd 2: [Ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, ch 2, sl st in next sc] 6 times, ending in the same sc you started in. Fasten off, weave in ends.
Fasten off; weave in ends; wash and block.
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Free Pattern – Design Improv Workshop #1 – Drawstring Bag
When you were a kid, did you ever do one of those group creative writing exercises where each person takes turns writing one sentence? One person writes the first sentence, the next person writes the next one, and before you know it you have a funny story full of twists and turns and surprises.
The other day, a bunch of us decided to try the same thing, only with a crochet pattern. Our first attempt resulted in this cute, textured, drawstring bag. It turned out to be so much fun that we’re hoping to do it again soon!
I started off with row 1 and finished with row 14. The following designers wrote the rest of the rows:
What a great group! And here is the pattern we came up with:
Design Improv Workshop #1 – Drawstring Bag
Abbreviations used:
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
ldc = linked double crochet
fpdc = front post double crochet
bpdc = back post double crochet
fphdc = front post half double crochet
st(S) = stitch(es)
sk = skip
Back:
Row 1: Work 20 foundation sc. Mark Row 1 as right side.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in front loop of next st, sc in back loop of next st across.
Row 3: Ch 2, turn, sk first sc, *sk next sc, dc in next sc, working in front of last dc, dc in skipped sc, repeat from * to last sc, hdc in last sc.
Row 4: Ch 2, turn, hdc in first st, fpdc in every st across to last st, hdc in last st.
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, *sc in next st, dc in next st, repeat from * across.
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 sts, *hdc, dc in the next 2 sts, hdc, sc in the next 2 sts, repeat from * across.
Row 7: Ch1, turn, ldc in each stitch across.
Row 8: Ch 2, turn, hdc in first st, *sk next st, (fpdc, hdc) in next st, repeat from * across to last st, hdc in last st.
Row 9: Repeat row 3.
Row 10: Ch 1, turn hdc in 1st 2 sts, * sk next st, fpdc in next st, fpdc in skipped st (create an ‘x’), hdc in next st, Repeat from * to last st, work hdc in last st.
Row 11: Ch 2, turn, sk next st, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next st, [sk next 2 sts, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next st] 5 times, sk next st, hdc in last st.
Row 12: Ch2, turn, bpdc in each st across to last st, dc in last st. (14 sts)
Row 13: Ch 1, turn, fphdc in first st, hdc in next st, *fphdc in next st, hdc in next st, repeat from * across.
Row 14: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn [sk next st, (dc, ch1, dc) in next st] 6 times, sk next st, dc in last st. Fasten off.
Front:
Repeat rows 1-14 of back, but do not fasten off at end of row 14.
Joining:
Hold front and back together with wrong sides facing. Working through both thicknesses to join them together:
Work 15 reverse sc evenly spaced along sides of rows, turn work 90 degrees counter-clockwise.
Working in bottom of row 1, reverse sc in each st across, turn work 90 degrees counter-clockwise.
Work 15 reverse sc evenly spaced along sides of rows, fasten off
Finishing:
Sew in all ends. Weave a ribbon or cord through the stitches of row 12 to act as a drawstring.
I hope you enjoy the pattern. Be sure to follow this blog or check back for more free patterns!
Free Pattern – Snowman Ornament with a Bowtie and Fez
This crazy snowman looks cool in his brown jacket, bowtie, and fez. Yes, a fez. I imagine he’s a Shriner…or maybe he picked it up as a souvenir on a visit to the middle east. Snowmen need vacations too you know! Either way, the fez hides a secret – behind it, there is a small loop for an ornament hook.
The pattern calls for fingering weight yarn and size 10 crochet thread, to make an ornament that is about 3 inches tall. You can easily use the pattern to make a larger snowman if you like, simply by using thicker yarns.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Stitch markers, safety pins, or scrap pieces of yarn.
Fabric Stiffener
Difficulty:
Intermediate – Several pieces and small gauge. Techniques include magic circle, and working in the round.
Size:
About 3 inches tall
Gauge:
Bottom half of snowman, without edging, should be 1.5” in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations used:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together
sc3tog = single crochet 3 stitches together
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sk = skip
Notes:
To start the snowman, the magic circle technique is recommended. If you don’t know or prefer not to use this technique, you can use the alternate option instead.
Mark the 1st stitch of each round, moving the marker each time you start a new round.
The edges of each piece may curl slightly. This is ok, the fabric stiffener will help it flatten out.
Rnd 1: Make a magic loop, ch 1, 6 sc inside magic loop, join with sl st to first sc. Pull magic loop closed.
OR
Alternate Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6sc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st to first sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2sc in each st, join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, (2sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times, join with sl st to first sc. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in first sc (2sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 7 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, (2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times, join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. (30 sc)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in first 2 sc (2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 7 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc. (36 sc)
Top:
Repeat rounds 1-5 of Bottom, fasten off, leaving a 6 inch tail for sewing. Sew top to bottom over 4 stitches.
Edging:
Join white with sc at very top of head, ch6, sc in next st and in each st around outside edge of snowman. join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off (58 sc, 1 ch 6 loop)
Bowtie (make 1):
Using smaller hook, and red thread:
Row 1: Ch 4, leaving an 8 inch tail. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn. (3sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc 3tog, turn. (1 st)
Row 3: Ch 1, 3sc in next st, turn. (3sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each st across, fasten off, leaving an 8 inch tail.
Finishing: With needle, sew both ends into the center of the bow, in the same way as you would to hide the ends. Holding both ends together, wrap them around the middle of the bow twice, tuck the ends under the wraps, and pull tightly to secure.
Fez (make 1):
Using smaller hook, and red thread:
Row 1: Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (7 sc)
Rows 2-7: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn
Row 8: Ch 1, sk next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sl st in last st, fasten off. (3 sts). Mark this row as right side.
Tassel: Using smaller hook, and black thread: Join black with sl st at center top of hat, leaving at least a 3 inch starting tail. Ch 3, fasten off,. Sew starting tail through chain so that it comes out at the end of the last ch. Tie both tails in a knot and trim ends to desired tassel length.
Jacket (make 2):
Using smaller hook, and brown thread:
Row 1: Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (7 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts, turn. (7 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next 5 sts, turn. (6 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts, turn. (5 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts (3 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in last st, fasten off. (2 sts)
Finishing:
Using the photo as a guide:
With black thread, embroider facial features and buttons.
Sew bowtie, fez and jacket onto snowman.
Follow directions on fabric stiffener bottle to stiffen and flatten finished piece.
I hope you enjoy the pattern! An ad-free, downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store for a $1 fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Spiral Seashell Bag Crochet Pattern
The Spiral Seashell Bag is perfect for a day at the beach or a casual night out, with just enough room for a few essentials. This seashell bag crochet pattern features a slightly different seashell motif on each side. The back motif is part of the main bag panel, while the front motif doubles as a secret pocket!
The motif pattern has 2 edging options. One for a stand-alone motif to be used as a coaster, applique, or decoration. The other leaves the last round of stitches free to be crocheted into as part of a larger pattern.
Spiral Seashell Square
Working into the exposed stitches, the motif becomes the center of the Spiral Seashell Square. A plain background ripples outwards, transforming the shell into a square. Shell stitches add a decorative border, followed by a solid outside edge. Make it as a focal point of a larger piece, or make an entire blanket of seashells!
Get the Set
In addition to the free, online version, each pattern is available for purchase individually on Ravelry as a downloadable pdf, nicely formatted for printing. Want them all? Save some money and buy the Spiral Seashell Set e-book!
Putting it all together
An expanded border turns the Spiral Seashell Square into the back panel of this seashell crochet bag pattern. A plain square forms the front, with a separate Spiral Seashell Motif sewn on top to form a pocket.
Most of shell is worked in continuous rnds. Do not join or turn unless specifically indicated. Mark first st of each rnd.
With A, ch 2 or make a magic circle and ch 1.
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook or in magic circle, pull tail to close magic circle if used. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around. (12 hdc)
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. (24 dc)
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around. (36 dc)
Row 5 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] 3 times, [2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts] twice, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next st, leave remaining 19 sts unworked. Fasten off. (13 dc, 8 hdc, 3 sc)
Shell Pocket should now measure approximately 4.25 inches / 10.5 cm at widest point.
Shell Pocket Chart
Click to enlarge
Crochet Pocket Edging
Rnd 6 (RS): With RS facing, join B with sl st in st at base of last st of Rnd 4. Sl st in each st around. Fasten off.
Embroidery: With yarn needle and B, embroider spiral detail. Start at first stitch of Edging Rnd and work inwards along spiral pattern between rnds. Do not embroider along the line between Rnd 4 and Row 5. Working outwards again, add the perpendicular lines, increasing the space between them as you go. Weave in all loose ends.
Front Panel
With C, ch 2 or make a magic circle and ch 1.
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook or in magic circle, pull tail to close magic circle if used, join with sl st in first sc. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in each st around, join with sl st in first sc. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) around, join with sl st in first sc. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, turn, (2 sc in next sts, sc in next 2 st) around, join with sl st in first sc. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc now and throughout), turn, (dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in first st, *hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts**, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next st, repeat from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last repeat. (36 sts, 4 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 6: Ch 3, turn, [dc in each st to next ch-1 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-1 sp] 4 times, dc in each st around, join with sl st in top of beginning ch-3. (52 sts, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 9: With RS facing, join D with sl st in any ch-sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same sp, *[sc in next st, sk next st, 3 dc in next st, sk next st] 5 times, sc in next st**, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-sp, repeat from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last repeat, join with sl st in top of beginning ch-3, fasten off. (100 sts, 4 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 10: With WS facing, join C with sl st in any ch-1 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same sp, *[sc in next dc, sk next dc, 3 dc in next sc, sk next dc] 6 times, sc in next dc**, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-1 sp, repeat from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last repeat, join with sl st in top of beginning ch-3, fasten off. (116 sts, 4 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 11: With RS facing, join D with sl st in any ch-1 sp (this will now be top-right corner), ch 1, (2 sc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same sp, (sl st in next dc, sk next dc, 3 dc in next sc, sk next dc) 7 times, sl st in next dc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 sc) in next corner sp, *[sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st] 7 times, sc in next st**, 5 sc in next ch-1 sp, repeat from * twice more, ending at ** on last repeat, join with sl st in first sc, fasten off. (126 sts, 2 ch sps)
Back Panel
Seashell
Work as for Shell Pocket through Rnd 5. Do not work Edging.
Center Circle
With RS facing, join C with sl st in top of last st on Rnd 4 of shell.
Row 1 (RS): Working in back loops only around outside edge of shell, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] 4 times, [2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st] 3 times, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in next st (same st that sl st from rnd 5 of Shell was worked into). (25 sts)
Row 2: Turn, working in both loops, sl st in next st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts] four times, [2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts] twice, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, sl st in top of first st of rnd 5 of shell. (32 sts)
Rnd 3: Turn, ch1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts] 7 times, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next sl st (beginning sl st from Row 2), dc in next sl st (ending slip stitch from Row 1), continuing around shell and working in back loops only, dc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, [sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] 5 times, join with sl st to first sc. (72 sts)
Inner Square
Rnd 4: Turn, ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout), working in both loops, dc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 7 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in next st**, dc in next 3 sts, repeat from * 3 times, ending at ** on last repeat, join with sl st to top of ch 3. (84 sts, 4 ch-1 sps)
Border
Rnds 5-7: Repeat Rnds 9-11 of front.
Embroidered Shell Edging
With yarn needle and B, embroider edging and spiral detail on Seashell. Start at top of the first stitch of Row 5, work inwards, stitching just under the tops of sts of Row 5, then under tops of unworked sts of Rnd 4, and finally along spiral pattern between rnds. Do not embroider along the line between Rnd 4 and Row 5. Working outwards again, add the perpendicular lines, increasing the space between them as you go. Weave in all ends.
Handle (Make 2)
With C, ch 4, leaving an 8-inch / 20 cm tail for sewing.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (3 sc)
Rows 2 & 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Rnd 4 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, join with sl st to first sc.
Working in continuous rounds, sc in each st around until handle reaches desired length. There is no need to keep track of beginning of round.
Next 4 Rows: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 3 sts. Fasten off after last row, leaving an 8-inch / 20 cm tail for sewing.
Button Closure Tab
With D, ch 4, leaving an 8-inch / 20 cm tail for sewing
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (3 sc)
Rows 2-9: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 10: Ch1, turn, sc in first st, ch 2, sk next st, sc in last st, fasten off.
Rnd 11: With RS facing, join blue with sl st in side of first sc on row 1. Working in sides of rows, ch 1, sc in same row, sc in each row to ch-2 sp, 5 dc in ch-2 sp, working on opposite side of rows, sc in each row, fasten off. (20 sc, 5 dc)
Assembly
Use images as guides for placement throughout Assembly.
With A and RS up, sew Shell Pocket to middle of RS of Front Panel, working around outside edge of Shell, just under color B edging. Leave a portion unworked at top for pocket opening.
Sew flat ends of one Handle to WS of Front Panel and other Handle to WS of Back Panel.
Place Button Closure Tab with WS facing up on WS of Back Panel, centered between ends of Handle and near top edge. Sew tab to back securely, being mindful to keep stitches neat on RS.
Hold Front and Back Panels with WS tog and Front Panel facing you. Working through both layers, join C with sl sp in ch-sp at top-left corner of bag. Working in back loops only, through both layers being careful to match sts and corners, sc in each st around to top-right corner ch-1 sp, sc in ch-1sp, fasten off.
Sew button to center front of bag, so it lines up with button hole.
Finishing
Remove any remaining markers. Weave in all ends. Wash and block.
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Spiral Seashell Square Crochet Pattern
This lovely seashell square crochet pattern starts with a spiral seashell and grows outwards into an ocean-themed square with a scalloped inner border. Use it as part of a blanket or by itself as a decorative trivet.
This seashell square crochet pattern is perfect for blankets, throws, pillowcases, or just on its own as a decoration. You can use it in a single layer as a trivet, but for extra protection, make a 2nd layer! Simply make 2 squares, hold them with wrong sides together, and sew or crochet them together along the outer edge.
Other Spiral Seashell Patterns
The center of this seashell square is the Spiral Seashell Motif. The motif pattern includes 2 edging options and works well as a coaster or applique. The square pattern uses the lighter, embroidered edging.
Combine both versions in the Spiral Seashell Bag! It uses the shell with the embroidered edging as the center of the back, much like in this blanket square. Then the motif with the crocheted edging makes a pocket on the front.
Get the Set
In addition to the free, online version, each pattern is available for purchase individually on Ravelry as a downloadable pdf, nicely formatted for printing. Want them all? Save some money and buy the Spiral Seashell Set e-book!
Most of shell is worked in continuous rnds. Do not join or turn unless specifically indicated. Mark first st of each rnd.
With A, ch 2 or make a magic circle and ch 1.
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook or in magic circle, pull tail to close magic circle if used. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around. (12 hdc)
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. (24 dc)
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around. (36 dc)
Row 5 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] 3 times, [2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts] twice, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next st, leave remaining 19 sts unworked. Fasten off. (13 dc, 8 hdc, 3 sc)
Shell Chart
Click to enlarge
Center Circle
With RS facing, join C with sl st in top of last st on Rnd 4 of shell.
Row 1 (RS): Working in back loops only around outside edge of shell, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] 4 times, [2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st] 3 times, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in next st (same st that sl st from rnd 5 of Shell was worked into). (25 sts)
Row 2: Turn, working in both loops, sl st in next st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts] four times, [2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts] twice, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, sl st in top of first st of rnd 5 of shell. (32 sts)
Rnd 3: Turn, ch1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts] 7 times, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next sl st (beginning sl st from Row 2), dc in next sl st (ending slip stitch from Row 1), continuing around shell and working in back loops only, dc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, [sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] 5 times, join with sl st to first sc. (72 sts)
Inner Square
Rnd 4: Turn, ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout), working in both loops, dc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 7 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts, (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) in next st**, dc in next 3 sts, repeat from * 3 times, ending at ** on last repeat, join with sl st to top of ch 3. (84 sts, 4 ch-1 sps)
Border
With right side facing, join D with sl st in in any ch 1 sp.
Rnd 5: Ch 3, (dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same sp, *[sc in next st, sk next st, 3 dc in next st, sk next st] 5 times, sc in next st**, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next corner sp, repeat from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last repeat, join with sl st in top of first st, fasten off. (100 sts, 4 ch-1 sps)
With wrong side facing, join C with sc in in any ch 1 sp.
Rnd 6: (Sc, ch 1, 2 sc) in same sp, *sc in next st, [ch 3, sk next 3 sts, sc in next st] 6 times**, (2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc) in next ch-1 sp, repeat from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last repeat, join with sl st in top of first st. (40 sts, 24 ch-3 sps, 4 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 7: Turn, ch 3, dc in next st, *3 dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next 3 sts, [3 dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next st] 6 times**, dc in next 2 sts, repeat from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last repeat, dc in next st, join with sl st in top of first st, fasten off. (112 sts)
Embroidered Shell Edging
With yarn needle and B, embroider edging and spiral detail on Shell. Start at top of the first stitch of Row 5, work inwards, stitching just under the tops of sts of Row 5, then under tops of unworked sts of Rnd 4, and finally along spiral pattern between rnds. Do not embroider along the line between Rnd 4 and Row 5. Working outwards again, add the perpendicular lines, increasing the space between them as you go. Weave in all ends.
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Spiral Seashell Motif Crochet Pattern
This quick and easy seashell motif crochet pattern offers two edging options for different uses. Use it as a coaster, an appliqué, or even a pocket. Get the whole set with patterns for a square and a bag based on this motif!
I’ve used this versatile, seashell motif crochet pattern as a starting point for both a blanket square and a bag. Each of the 2 edging options works well for a different application.
Sewn Edging
The lighter, embroidered edging leaves the last row of stitches exposed, so you can easily crochet into them. Using this option, the seashell motif becomes the center of the Spiral Seashell Square.
In the same way, the back panel of the Spiral Seashell Bag begins with a slightly modified version of this seashell crochet motif.
Crochet Edging
The thicker, crocheted edging gives a nice finish to the outside edge of the seashell motif. This is perfect for a stand-alone shell or to use the motif as an appliqué. On the front of the Spiral Seashell Bag, the stand-alone motif becomes a pocket!
Most of shell is worked in continuous rnds. Do not join or turn unless specifically indicated. Mark first st of each rnd.
With A, ch 2 or make a magic circle and ch 1.
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook or in magic circle, pull tail to close magic circle if used. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around. (12 hdc)
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. (24 dc)
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around. (36 dc)
Row 5 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] 3 times, [2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts] twice, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next st, leave remaining 19 sts unworked. Fasten off. (13 dc, 8 hdc, 3 sc)
Shell Chart
Click to enlarge
Edging
Option 1: Crocheted Edging
Rnd 6 (RS): With RS facing, join B with sl st in st at base of last st of Rnd 4. Sl st in each st around. Fasten off.
Embroidery: With yarn needle and B, embroider spiral detail. Start at first stitch of Edging Rnd and work inwards along spiral pattern between rnds. Do not embroider along the line between Rnd 4 and Row 5. Working outwards again, add the perpendicular lines, increasing the space between them as you go. Weave in all loose ends.
Option 2: Embroidered edging
With yarn needle and B, embroider edging and spiral detail. Start at top of the first stitch of Row 5, work inwards, stitching just under the tops of sts of Row 5, then under tops of unworked sts of Rnd 4, and finally along spiral pattern between rnds. Do not embroider along the line between Rnd 4 and Row 5. Working outwards again, add the perpendicular lines, increasing the space between them as you go. Weave in all ends.
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Granny’s Crochet Coasters Pattern
Add a touch of lace to your table with a set of lovely, crochet coasters. They’re just like my Granny used to make!
My Granny was a talented crocheter and loved to work with fine threads. One of my mother’s prized possessions was a set of crochet coasters that Granny had made. They were always on our coffee table, though we knew better than to actually use them!
Granny lived half a world away, in India, so I only met her a few times. I always felt close to her though, thanks to the stories my parents told. In her last few years, we had started communicating by letters (yes, real snail mail.)
A set of my own
When I was getting married, relatives asked what I would like as a wedding gift. I told one relative that I would have loved a set of those coasters, but that I didn’t want to ask Granny. Her eyes had gotten pretty bad, and I knew that thread work would be a struggle.
They told me she would be thrilled just to know that I wanted them. So the request was passed on, despite my hesitation, and I now have my very own set! As far as I know, these were her original design.
Crochet coasters pattern
Using her coasters as a guide, I made a copy and wrote this pattern. In the picture below, the coaster on the right is Granny’s, and the coaster on the left is my copy.
My tension is a little looser and she may have used a different weight thread, but overall, I think it’s a pretty close replica!
Crochet coaster base
Granny used 3.5-inch diameter glass circles as the base for her crochet coasters. Her gauge was impossibly tiny and 4-inch circles are easier to find. So I designed mine for 4-inch circles.
Granny’s bases were 1/16 inch thick, but anything up to 1/8 inch will work. Clear acrylic, mirrored, or solid-colored circles of other materials work well too.
Join rnds where indicated with sl st in first st, unless otherwise specified.
Center Flower
Ch 6, join with sl st in 1st ch to make a circle.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, [sc, ch 7] 7 times in circle, sc in circle, ch 4, dc in first sc (ch 4 and dc counts as ch-7 sp). (8 sc, 8 ch-7 sps)
Rnd 2: ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in same ch-7 sp, [ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next ch-7 sp] 7 times, ch 1, join. (16 sc, 8 ch-3 sps, 8 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 3: Skipping all sts, sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in same sp, [ch 2, sc in next ch 1 sp, ch 2, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in next ch 3 sp] 7 times, ch 2, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2, join. (32 dc, 8 sc, 8 ch-3 sps, 16 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 4: Sl st in next dc and in first ch-3 sp, ch 4 (counts as tr), (2 tr, ch 3, 3 tr) in same sp, [ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next sc, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, (3 tr, ch 3, 3 tr) in next ch 3 sp] 7 times, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next sc, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, join. (48 tr, 8 ch-3 sps, 16 ch-2 sps)
Border
Rnd 5: Sl st in each of next 2 trs and in first ch-3 sp, ch 5 (counts as dtr), (dtr, ch 3, 2 dtr) in same sp, working only in ch-3 sps and sk all other sts and sps, [ch 7, (2 dtr, ch 3, 2 dtr) in next ch 3 sp] 7 times, ch 7, join. (16 dtr, 8 ch-1 sps, 8 ch-7 sps)
Rnd 6: Sl st in next dtr and in first ch-3 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in same sp, skipping all sts, [9 dc in 4th ch of next ch 7 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch- 3 sp] 7 times, 9 dc in 4th ch of next ch 7 sp, join. (120 dc, 8 ch-3 sps)
Some curling is expected on rnds 7-9.
Rnd 7: Sl st in each of next 2 dc and in first ch-3 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same sp, [sk next 3 dc, dc in each of next 9 dc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp] 7 times, sk next 3 dc, dc in each of next 9 dc, join. (104 dc, 8 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 8: Sl st in next dc and in first ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as a dc), (sk next 2 dc, dc in each of next 9 dc, sk next 2 dc, dc in next ch-1 sp) 7 times, sk next 2 dc, dc in each of next 9 dc, join. (80 dc)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st in first sc, fasten off.
Finishing:
Weave in all ends.
Wash and block.
Insert base into crochet.
Granny’s Crochet Coasters Charts
Full Chart
Click image to expand
Repeating Chart
Click image to expand
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Children’s Fingerless Mitts Crochet Pattern
These stretchy, children’s fingerless mitts are super warm and squishy! The pattern includes 2 sizes, with dense, all-over ribbing that stretches for a perfect fit. Mix and match colors for fun striped designs and/or add an optional, fuzzy trim.
These fingerless mitts make great gifts for everyone on your list! This pattern comes in toddler size for approximately ages 1-3, and child size for older children.
Mix up your colors for fun striping patterns! The mitts in the main picture are the toddler size. For the striping detail, they have 1 row of purple, followed by 2 rows of dark blue, and another 1 row of purple. One mitt shows the optional eyelash yarn edging.
The green adult-size mitts have 2 rows of silver at the bottom and 2 rows at the top. For the orange mitts, I used one row of greenish-brown at the bottom and 4 rows near the top, ending with one orange row. I call the color combo “peas and carrots.”
Work 2 rows in the same color for a solid stripe, or change colors with every row for a more variegated effect. The options are endless!
Size F / 5 (3.75 mm) hook or size needed to match gauge
Size G / 6 (4 mm) hook or 1 size bigger than the smaller hook.
Notions: Yarn needle
Project Level
Intermediate: Front and back post stitches, worked in the round, increases. Foundation half double crochet stitches are optional.
Size:
Toddler [Child]
Mitts are stretchy and fit a wide range of sizes. Toddler size fits (approx. ages 1-3), Child fits older children. For teens, use adult size pattern. Picture shows Toddler size.
Gauge:
19 sts x 11 rows = 4 inches in ribbing pattern, with smaller hook.
Use pattern as gauge swatch: Cuff should measure 2 x 2 [2.5 x 2.5] inches. Exact gauge is not critical, as the mitts are designed to be stretchy.
Join rnds where indicated with a sl st in the first st of the rnd. Change colors as desired throughout.
Cuff
With smaller hook and worsted weight yarn
Rnd 1 (RS): Work 20 [26] fhdc, join with sl st to first st to form a ring. (20 [26] fhdc)
OR
Alternate Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 21 [27] loosely, hdc in 2nd ch from hook, and in each ch around, join. (20 [26] hdc)
This will leave a small gap at the bottom of the row, which should be sewn closed when weaving in the tail.
Rnd 2: Ch 2 (counts as bpdc throughout), fpdc around next st, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] around, join. (10 [13] bpdc, 10 [13] fpdc)
Rnds 3-6 [7]: Repeat Rnd 2 four [five] times more. Do not fasten off.
Hand:
With larger hook and worsted weight yarn:
Thumb Gusset
Toddler size only:
Rnd 7: Ch 2, fpdc around next st, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] 4 times, ch1, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] 5 times, join. (10 bpdc, 10 fpdc, 1 ch-1 sp)
Rnd 8: Ch 2, fpdc around next st, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] across to ch-1 sp, (hdc, ch1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] around, join. (10 bpdc, 10 fpdc, 2 hdc, 1 ch-1 sp)
Rnd 9: Ch 2, [fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st] across to ch-1 sp, 2 hdc in ch-1 sp, [fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st] around, join. (11 bpdc, 11 fpdc, 2 hdc)
Child size only:
Rnd 8: Ch 2, [fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st] 6 times, ch1, [fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st] 6 times, fpdc around last st, join. (13 bpdc, 13 fpdc, 1 ch-1 sp)
Rnd 9: Ch 2, [fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st,] across to ch-1 sp, (hdc, ch1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, [fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st] across to last st, fpdc around next st, join. (13 bpdc, 13 fpdc, 2 hdc, 1 ch-1 sp)
Rnd 10: Ch 2, fpdc around next st, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] across to ch-1 sp, (hdc, ch1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] around, join. (14 bpdc, 14 fpdc, 2 hdc, 1 ch-1 sp)
Rnd 11: Ch 2, [fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st,] across to ch-1 sp, 2 hdc in ch-1 sp, fpdc around next st, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] around, join. (15 bpdc, 15 fpdc, 2 hdc)
Rnd 11 [13]: Ch 2, fpdc around next st, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] 4 [5] times, ch 1, sk next 5 [7] sts, [fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st] 4 [6] times, fpdc around last st, join. (9 [12] bpdc, 10 [13] fpdc, 1 ch-1 sp)
Rnd 12 [14]: Ch 2, fpdc around next st, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] across to ch-1 sp, hdc in ch-1 sp, fpdc around next st, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] around, join. (9 [12] bpdc, 10 [13] fpdc, 1 hdc)
Fingers
Rnds 13-14 [15-17]: Repeat Rnd 2.
If not working optional edgings, fasten off. If working optional edging, change to eyelash yarn.
Optional Edgings
Finger Edging: With larger hook and eyelash yarn, repeat Rnd 2, fasten off.
Cuff edging: Turn work upside down to work into bottom edge of cuff. Join eyelash yarn with sl st in the bottom of any bpdc from rnd 1. Working around sts from rnd 1, repeat Rnd 2, fasten off.
Finishing
Weave in all ends.
Repeat instructions for 2nd mitt.
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