This whimsical blanket combines my Windy Square and Pinwheel Square patterns. It uses a couple of different joining techniques and a simple striped border. It is made with Anne Geddes Baby yarn by Red Heart, and it has come out really soft and squishy. I had to resist the urge to cuddle up in it myself! At the end of the pattern, I have included a couple of suggestions for alternate color combinations.

I have quite a bit of extra yarn left over, so I plan to make another coordinating item – maybe a sweater. I don’t have anything in mind yet so it may be some time before I have a pattern ready, but you can follow this blog so you don’t miss it whenever it’s done!  See the “follow this blog” options on the sidebar (desktop) or below (mobile).

Update: Here are the links to the rest of the set!

• Daydreamer Cardigan
• Striped Booties
• Puffy Pinwheel Hat

 

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This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!

Notes:

• I only ended up using 3 skeins of bluebell, but I used every last bit of those 3 skeins – I think I had less than 1 yard left. I recommend getting 4 skeins, just to be on the safe side.
• If you leave a long tail at the end of each of your squares, you can use those tails for seaming later.

Recommended Resources:

• Whipstitch seam through wrong side loops only
• Half double crochet in the front loop only – by Crochet Ever After (shows where the front loop of the hdc stitch is.)

 

Squares:

• Make 8 Windy Squares
• Make 8 Pinwheel Squares

Joining:

All joining is done with color C.

Whipstitch into sections:

To join the following sections, hold squares with right sides together. Whipstitch through wrong side loops only. See recommended tutorial here.

• Join 4 pinwheel squares together to form one larger square (center of blanket) as shown below. Leave the other 4 pinwheel squares aside (4 corners of blanket).
• Join all 8 windy squares into 4 sets of 2 as shown below, making sure that each pair has the wind blowing in the same direction (4 sides of blanket).

You should now have these sections:

Jacob’s ladder joining: 

Hold center section and one of the windy square sections together, with wrong sides facing, as shown here. Note the wind should be facing you, and should be blowing to the right.

Working through both pieces, join C with sl st in top right corner.

*Sl st into next st on front (windy) piece only, ch 10, sl st into next st on back (pinwheel piece) only. This creates a loop.

Working through both pieces, sl st into next 2 sts. **

Repeat from * 9 more times, sl st into next ch sp on front (windy) piece only, ch 10, sl st into next ch sp on back (pinwheel) piece only, working through both pieces, sl st into next ch sp

Repeat from * to ** 10 more times, pull working loop up (or secure with stitch marker) so that it won’t slip out, and set hook aside (do not fasten off).

You should now have the two pieces joined, with a series of loops across the seam, like this:

Re-position your work in front of you as shown in the above picture. Note that the windy squares should be on the left, and your working yarn should be up at the top.  Take the first (bottom) loop, and twist it a half twist. You will only be twisting the first loop – do not twist any of the later loops.

Pull the next loop through the first loop

Continue with each loop, forming the ladder or braid across the seam. You will now be left with one loop at the end.

Pull the working yarn (that you took off the hook earlier) through this last loop, and put it back on your hook. This will secure the ladder / braid in place. Working through both pieces, sl st into the last corner sp. Do not fasten off.

Turn work 90 degrees (to next side of pinwheel section), position next windy section in the same way that you did the first, and repeat from * to join. (wind should always be facing you and blowing to the right). Do the same for each of the remaining windy square sections, until all 4 are joined, then fasten off. Your piece should now look like this:

Joining Corners:

Sew each of the remaining 4 pinwheels into the 4 corners by whipstitching through the wrong side loops only.

Edging:

Rnd 1: Join A with sl st in any corner ch sp, ch 1, *hdc in each st and ch sp across to next corner,** (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next corner ch sp, repeat from * 3 times, ending at ** on last repeat, (hdc, ch 2) in corner ch sp, join with sl st to first hdc. (128 hdc)

Note: on Rnd 2, when working into front loop only, be careful to work in the actual front loop – not the extra / 3rd loop. See tutorial for correct placement.

Rnd 2: Turn, sl st in next ch sp, changing to B. Working in front loops only, ch 1, sc in same sp, *sc in each st across to next ch sp,** (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch sp, repeat from * 3 more times, ending at ** on last repeat, (sc, ch 2) in ch sp, join with sl st to first sc. (136 sc)

Rnd 3: Turn, sl st in next ch sp, changing to A. Working in both loops, ch 1, 2 hdc in same sp, *hdc in each st across to next ch sp,** (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in next ch sp, repeat from * 3 more times, ending at ** on last repeat, (2 hdc, ch 2) in ch sp, join with sl st to first hdc. (152 hdc)

Rnd 4: Turn, sl st in next ch sp, changing to B, ch 1, sc in same sp, *sc in each st across to next ch sp,** (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch sp, repeat from * 3 more times, ending at ** on last repeat, (sc, ch 2) in ch sp, join with sl st to first sc. (160 sc)

Rnd 5: Turn, sl st in next ch sp, changing to C, ch 1, 2 hdc in same sp, *hdc in each st across to next ch sp,** (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in next ch sp, repeat from * 3 more times, ending at ** on last repeat, (2 hdc, ch 2) in ch sp, join with sl st to first hdc. (176 hdc)

Rnd 6: Turn, sl st in next ch sp, changing to B, ch 1, sc in same sp, *sc in each st across to next ch sp, ** 3 sc in ch sp, repeat from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last repeat, 2 sc in next ch sp, join with sl st to first sc, fasten off. (184 sc)

Sew in any remaining tails

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I hope you enjoy the pattern! Thank you to Red Heart too, for supplying the lovely yarn! A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store for a $2 fee. The download includes both the Windy Square and Pinwheel Square patterns as well. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the patterns rather than viewing it online.

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I love to watch pinwheels spinning in a warm summer breeze. Because of the color selection, Anne Geddes Baby yarn by Red Heart was an obvious choice for this project. It comes in a wide array of colors, including those vibrant, bright shades that can be so hard to find in a baby yarn. It’s also a great weight for a baby blanket, and the acrylic / nylon blend means it’s strong and machine washable too.

This square was designed to coordinate with the Windy Square pattern I released earlier. The two squares are used together in my Dreaming of Pinwheels blanket.

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This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.

This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!

Pinwheel blanket square

Add this to your Ravelry Queue

Materials:

• Anne Geddes Baby Yarn:
  • 35-40 yds Bumble (A)
  • 10-15 yds Grass (B)
  • 40-45 yds Bluebell (C)
• Size G / 6 (4.25 mm) hook
• Yarn or tapestry needle

Difficulty:

Intermediate – Mostly worked in the round, working in front or back loops only, working in sides of rows for edging. Because of the front and back loops, I’m calling it intermediate…but this would be a great project for an advanced beginner as well.

Size:

8″ square.

Gauge:

15 sc x 18 rows = 4″ square.

Abbreviations used:

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• sl st = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• sp(s) = space(s)
• sk = skip
• rnd = round
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side

Notes:

• The magic circle technique is recommended for the first round and for the button, however an alternative is provided.
• If you make sure your starting tail is hanging at the back (wrong side) of the work, you can use that as a marker to know which is the wrong side.
• In place of the button, you can use any small button or flower pattern you like – just be sure to secure it fully around the edges and be careful not to use anything that can be grabbed / torn off and cause a choking hazard.
• When finishing, pay attention to how your stitching will look on the reverse side of the fabric. It’s important the pieces be sewn securely, but try to make it look neat on the back side as well.

Recommended Resources:

• The Magic Circle by Moogly
• Front loop only / back loop only single crochet by Kim Guzman (same technique can be used for hdc)
• Working Into the Edge by Moogly

Pinwheel:

Center:

Leave a 8-10 inch starting tail for sewing later.

Rnd 1 (RS):  With A, inside a magic circle, work ch 1, (2 hdc, ch 2) 4 times, pull circle closed, join with sl st to first hdc. (8 hdc, 4 ch sps).

OR

Alternate Rnd 1 (RS): With A, ch 2. In 2nd ch from hook, work ch 1, (2 hdc, ch 2) 4 times, join with sl st to first hdc. (8 hdc, 4 ch 2 sps)

Rnd 2: Turn, sl st in first ch sp, ch 1, hdc in same ch sp, *hdc in each st across to next ch sp, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next ch sp, repeat from * twice more, hdc in each st across to next (starting) ch sp, (hdc, ch 2) in ch sp, join with sl st to first hdc. (16 hdc)

Rnds 3-5: Repeat rnd 2. Do not fasten off. (40 hdc in rnd 5)

Blades:

Now each side of the square is worked independently, in rows, to form the blades of the pinwheel.

Row 6: Turn, sl st in first ch sp, working in back loops only for the remainder of the row, sl st in first hdc, *ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next st. (12 hdc)

Row 7: Working in both loops, ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in each st across to last st, 2 hdc in last st. (14 hdc)

Rows 8- 9: Repeat Row 7 (18 hdc at end of row 9)

Row 10: Ch 1, turn, 3 hdc in first st, hdc in each st across to last st, 3 hdc in last st, fasten off. (22 hdc)

Other 3 blades: With wrong side facing, join A with sl st in back loop only of the first st on the next side of the square. Working in back loops only for this row, repeat from the * on row 6, all the way through row 10. Do this 2 more times, so all 4 sides of the square are done.

This is a good time to sew in all yellow tails, except for the starting tail.

Edging:

With RS facing, join B with sl st in the base of the first hdc of row 6, on any blade.

Ch 1, work 8 sc evenly spaced along side of blade.

* Working in front loops only, 3 sc in first st at top of blade (corner st), sc in next 9 sts,

Now working in both loops, sc in next 11 sts, 3 sc in next st

Work 8 sc evenly spaced along side of blade, **

Ch 1, work 8 sc evenly spaced along side of next blade.

Repeat from * 3 more times, ending at ** on the last repeat. ch 1, join with sl st to first sc of edging. Do not fasten off.

Background:

Rnd 6 (WS): Turn, sl st in ch sp from row 5 of pinwheel, ch 1, hdc in same sp, * working in front loops only (unused loops from row 6 of blades), hdc in each st across to next ch sp, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next sp, repeat from * twice more, hdc in front loop of each st across to next ch sp, hdc in next ch sp, ch 3, join with sl st to back loop only of first hdc of round, changing to C. Fasten off B. (48 hdc)

    

Rnd 7: Working in front loop only: Turn, sl st in first ch sp, ch 1, hdc in same sp, *hdc in each st across to next sp, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next sp, repeat from * twice more, hdc in each st across to next sp, (hdc, ch 2) in next sp, join with sl st to first hdc.  (56 hdc)

Rnds 8-9: Working on both loops, repeat rnd 7. (72 hdc at end of rnd 9)

Rnd 10: Turn, sl st in first ch sp, ch 1, 2 hdc in same sp, *hdc in each st across to next sp, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in next sp, repeat from * twice more, hdc in in each st across to next sp, (2 hdc, ch 2) in next sp, join with sl st to first hdc. (88 hdc)

Rnd 11 (joining): Turn, sl st in first ch sp, ch 1, 2 hdc in same sp, *working through unused loop from row 10 of pinwheel blade and both loops from row 10 of background, hdc in next 10 sts, now working only into background, hdc in next 12 sts, ** (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in next sp, repeat from * 3 more times, ending at ** on last repeat, (2 hdc, ch 2) in next sp, join with sl st to first hdc. (104 hdc)

Rnd 12 – 13: Turn, sl st in first sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *sc in each st across to next sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next sp, repeat from * twice more, sc in each st across to next sp, (sc, ch 2) in next sp, join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off at end of Rnd 13. (120 sts at end of Rnd 13).

Button:

With B, make a magic circle, ch 3, 11 dc inside the magic loop, join with sl st to top of starting ch, fasten off and close magic circle.

OR ch 4, work 11 dc in 4th ch, join with sl st to form a circle, fasten off.

Finishing:

Fold loose corners of pinwheel in to the center and sew them in place using the starting tail. If they don’t quite reach the very middle it’s ok. The blades should not overlap each other.

Sew button into the center of the square so that it covers the folded in corners. Be sure to sew all around the edge of the button so it can’t be grabbed and torn off by little hands or mouths. If you make sure the blades are very secure, you can then sew the button to just the blades, not all the way through – that way the green (B) stitches won’t show on the back of the square.

Sew in any remaining tails

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I hope you enjoy this Pinwheel Square pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format offsets the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

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