Free Crochet Patterns
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Rolling Hills Crochet Baby Sweater Pattern
Keep baby comfy and cozy in style with the Rolling Hills Sweater. Rows of gently rolling hills fade into the body of this simple crochet baby sweater. Made in fingering weight yarn, it’s soft and lightweight, perfect for cooler fall or spring temps. With 5 sizes to choose from, it makes a great gift too!
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Yarn Choices
This crochet baby sweater was a gift for a friend who has just had a baby, and I had the perfect yarn for it in my stash. I found this Sandnes Garn Babyull Lanett yarn on sale at a local yarn store. It’s a buttery soft, fingering-weight, wool baby yarn. I picked up a lot of it, in 4 coordinating shades, intending to weave a blanket. The weaving didn’t work out, and I still have a big bag of yarn left.
Ravelry lists this yarn as light fingering, (a 0 on the CYC scale rather than a 1). But I found it worked up similarly to other fingering-weight sock yarns. Any soft, fingering-weight yarn will work for this crochet baby sweater pattern. It’s a great way to use up leftover sock yarn!
Materials
- Yarn: Fingering weight yarn (see note below)
- 205 [250, 290, 345, 395] yds color A
- 15 [15, 15, 20, 20] yds each colors B-D
- 85 [90, 120, 140, 175] yds color E
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
Sample shown in Sandnes Garn Babyull Lanett 100% merino wool yarn (191yds / 1.76 oz / 50 g per skein), colors 4855 (A), 3161 (B), 4583 (C) and 4622 (D).
Note: This yarn is listed as “light fingering” on Ravelry, but I felt it worked up like a regular fingering weight.
Project Level
Intermediate: Working in rows and both turned and un-turned rounds, short rows, easy repeating stitch pattern
Sizes
1 [2, 3, 4, 5]
To fit 3 mo [6 mo, 12-18 mo, 2T, 4T]
Chest (A): 16 [17.5, 19.25, 20.75, 22.5] inches / 40 [43.8, 48.1, 51.9, 56.3] cm
Length (B): 9.25 [10, 10.75, 11.5, 12.25] inches / 23.1 [25, 26.9, 28.8, 30.6] cm
Armhole Depth (C): 3.75 [4.25, 4.25, 4.5, 4.5] inches / 9.4 [10.6, 10.6, 11.3, 11.3] cm
Sleeve Length (D): 5.25 [6, 6.75, 7.75, 8.75] inches / 13.1 [15, 16.9, 19.4, 21.9] cm
Gauge
20 sc x 24 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet
- rem = remain / remaining
- rep = repeat
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet next 2 stitches together.
- sl st = slip stitch
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources
Instructions
Body
Hem Ribbing
With E, Ch 82 [90, 98, 106, 114]
Rnd 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook (3 skipped chs count as first dc) and in each rem ch across, join with sl st in first st. (80 [88, 96, 104, 112] sts)
Note: Joining after Rnd 1 instead of at foundation ch makes it easier to join without twisting. This will leave a small gap at bottom of hem. Sew this gap closed when weaving in ends.
Rnd 2 (RS): Ch 2 (counts as bpdc throughout), do not turn, fpdc around next st, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] around, join with sl st in first st.
[Rep Rnd 2] 3 [3, 5, 5, 7] times more for a total of 5 [5, 7, 7, 9] rnds.
Hills
Note: To change color at end of rnd, work joining sl st in new color. Cut previous color leaving a tail to weave in later.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first st, *hdc in next st, dc in next st, tr in each of next 2 sts, dc in next st, hdc in next st,** sc in each of next 2 sts; rep from * around ending at ** on last rep, sc in last st, join with sl st in first sc. (20 [22, 24, 26, 28] each of sc, hdc, dc, and tr)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join with sl st in first st, change to D.
Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as tr), turn, *dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts, hdc in next st, dc in next st,* tr in each of next 2 sts; rep from * around ending at ** on last rep, tr in last st, join with sl st in first tr.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join with sl st in first st, change to C
Rnd 5: Rep Rnd 1.
Rnd 6: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join with sl st in first st, change to B
Rnd 7: Rep Rnd 3.
Rnd 8: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join with sl st in first st, change to A
Straight Section
Rnd 1: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around. (80 [88, 96, 104, 112] sc)
[Rep Rnd 1] 11 [13, 15, 17, 19], ending after Rnd 12 [14, 16, 18, 20].
Body Chart
Back
Row 1 (RS): Turn, sl st in first 1 [1, 1, 2, 2] sts, ch 1, sc in next 38 [41, 45, 48, 52] sts, sc2tog, leave rem sts unworked. (39 [42, 46, 49, 53] sts)
Rows 2-20: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 21: Turn, sl st in first 2 sts, ch 1, sc in next st and each st across. (37 [40, 44, 47, 51] sc)
Size 1 only
Row 22: Turn, sl st in first 2 sts, ch 1, sc in next sc and each sc across, sc in next 2 sl sts. (37 sc)
Row 23: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 9 sts, sl st in next 21 sts, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next 2 sl sts. (9 sc for each shoulder).
Fasten off.
Back Size 1 Chart
Sizes 2 & 3 only
Row 22: Turn, sl st in first 2 sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and each sc across to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [37, 41, -, -] sc)
Row 23: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and each sc across to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [35, 39, -, -] sc)
Left Back Shoulder
Row 24-L: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in each of next – [5, 7, -, -] sc, sc2tog, leave rem sts unworked. (- [6, 8, -, -] sts)
Row 25-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next sl st, sc in each of next 3 sl sts from previous rows. (- [10, 12, -, -] sc)
Fasten off.
Right Back Shoulder
With WS facing and working in unworked sts of Row 23, sk first 20 unworked sts, join A with sl st in next st.
Row 24-R: Ch 1, sk first st, sc in each rem sc across, sc in next sl st, sc in next 3 sl sts from previous rows. (- [10, 12, -, -] sc)
Row 25-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Fasten off.
Back Sizes 2 & 3 Chart
Sizes 4 & 5 only
Row 22: Turn, sl st in first 2 sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and in each sc across to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [-, -, 44, 48] sc)
Row 23: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and each sc across to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [-, -, 42, 46] sc)
Left Back Shoulder
Row 24-L: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in each of next – [-, -, 8, 9] sc, sc2tog, leave rem sts unworked. (- [-, -, 9, 10] sc)
Row 25-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [-, -, 8, 9] sc)
Row 26-L: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and each rem sc across. ( – [-, -, 7, 8] sc)
Row 27-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next sl st, sc in each of next 5 sl sts from previous rows. ( – [-, -, 13, 14] sc)
Fasten off.
Right Back Shoulder
With WS facing and working in unworked sts of Row 23, sk first – [-, -, 21, 23] unworked sts, join A with sl st in next st.
Row 24-R: Ch 1, sk first sc, sc in each sc to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [-, -, 8, 9] sc)
Row 25-R: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and each rem sc across. ( – [-, -, 7, 8] sc)
Row 26-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next sl st, sc in each of next 5 sl sts from previous rows. ( – [-, -, 13, 14] sc)
Row 27-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Fasten off.
Back Sizes 4 & 5 Chart
Front
Size 1 only
With RS facing and working into last rnd of Body, join A with sl st in same st as last leg of last sc2tog of Row 1 of Back.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in next 38 sts, sc2tog, leave rem sts unworked. (39 sc)
Note: Last leg of sc2tog will be in first sl st of Back.
Rows 2-13: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Front Right Shoulder
Row 14-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 10 sc, sc2tog. (11 sc)
Row 15-R: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc in each rem st across. (10 sc)
Row 16-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (9 sc)
Rows 17-R – 21-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 22-R: Turn, sl st in first 2 sts, ch 1, sc in next st and each rem st across. (7 sc)
Row 23-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next 2 sl sts. (9 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing shoulder seam.
Front Left Shoulder
With WS facing and working in unworked sts of Row 13, sk first 15 unworked sts, join A with sl st in next st.
Row 14-L: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc in each rem st across. (11 sc)
Row 15-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (10 sc)
Row 16-L: Rep Row 14-L. (9 sc)
Rows 17-L – 20-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 21-L: Turn, sl st in first 2 sts, ch 1, sc in next st and each rem st across. (7 sc)
Row 22-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next 2 sl sts. (9 sc)
Row 23-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Front Size 1 Chart
Sizes 2 & 3 only
With RS facing and working into unworked sts on last rnd of Body, join A with sl st in first unworked st.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in next – [41, 45, -, -] sts, sc2tog, leave rem sts unworked. (- [42, 46, -, -] sc)
Rows 2-13: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Front Right Shoulder
Row 14-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in first – [12, 14, -, -] sc, sc2tog. (- [13, 15, -, -] sc)
Row 15-R: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc in each rem st across. (- [12, 14, -, -] sc)
Row 16-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (- [11, 13, -, -] sc)
Row 17-R: Rep Row 15-R. (- [10, 12, -, -] sc)
Rows 18-R – 21-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Row 22-R: Turn, sl st in first 2 sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and each rem sc across. (- [8, 10, -, -] sc)
Row 23-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [7, 9, -, -] sc)
Row 24-R: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and each rem sc across. (- [6, 8, -, -] sc)
Row 25-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next sl st, sc in next 3 sl sts from previous rows. (- [10, 12, -, -] sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing shoulder seam.
Front Left Shoulder
With WS facing and working in unworked sts of Row 13, sk first 14 unworked sts, join A with sl st in next st.
Row 14-L: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc in each rem st across. (- [13, 15, -, -] sc)
Row 15-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (- [12, 14, -, -] sc)
Rows 16-L & 17-L: Rep Rows 14-L & 15-L. (- [10, 12, -, -] sc)
Rows 18-L – 20-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 21-L: Turn, sl st in first 2 sts, ch 1, sc in next st and in each rem st across. (- [8, 10, -, -] sc)
Row 22-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [7, 9, -, -] sc)
Row 23-L: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and in each rem sc across. (- [6, 8, -, -] sc)
Row 24-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next sl st, sc in next 3 sl sts from previous rows. (- [10, 12, -, -] sc)
Row 25-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Front Sizes 2 & 3 Chart
Sizes 4 & 5 only
With RS facing and working into unworked sts on last rnd of Body, sk first unworked st, join A with sl st in next st.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in next – [-, -, 48, 52] sts, sc2tog, leave rem sts unworked. (- [-, -, 49, 53] sc)
Rows 2-13: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Front Right Shoulder
Row 14-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in first – [-, -, 15, 16] sc, sc2tog. (- [-, -, 16, 17] sc)
Row 15-R: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc in each rem st across. (- [-, -, 15, 16] sc)
Row 16-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (- [-, -, 14, 15] sc)
Row 17-R: Rep Row 15-R. (- [-, -, 13, 14] sc)
Rows 18-R – 21-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Row 22-R: Turn, sl st in first 2 sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and each rem sc across. (- [-, -, 11, 12] sc)
Row 23-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [-, -, 10, 11] sc)
Row 24-R: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and each rem sc across. (- [-, -, 9, 10] sc)
Rows 25-R & 26-R: Rep Rows 23-R & 24-R. (- [-, -, 7, 8] sc)
Row 27-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next sl st, sc in next 5 sl sts from previous rows. (- [-, -, 13, 14] sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing shoulder seam.
Front Left Shoulder
With WS facing and working in unworked sts of Row 23, sk first -[-, -, 15, 17] unworked sts, join A with sl st in next st.
Row 14-L: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc in each rem st across. (-[-, -, 16, 17] sc)
Row 15-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (- [-, -, 15, 16] sc)
Rows 16-L & 17-L: Rep Rows 14-L & 15-L. (- [-, -, 13, 14] sc)
Rows 18-L – 20-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 21-L: Turn, sl st in first 2 sts, ch 1, sc in next st and each rem st across. (- [-, -, 11, 12] sc)
Row 22-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [-, -, 10, 11] sc)
Row 23-L: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in each rem sc across. (- [-, -, 9, 10] sc)
Row 24-L & 25-L: Rep Rows 22-L & 23-L. (- [-, -, 7, 8] sc)
Row 26-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next sl st, sc in next 5 sl sts from previous rows. (- [-, -, 13, 14] sc)
Row 27-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Front Sizes 4 & 5 Chart
All Sizes
Turn work WS out so RS of shoulders are facing. Sew shoulder seams using long tails.
Sleeve
Arm
Work once on each side.
With RS facing, join A with sl st at center of either underarm.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, work 40 [42, 44, 46, 46] sc evenly spaced around armhole opening, join with sl st to first st. (40 [42, 44, 46, 46] sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog, join with sl st to first st. (38 [40, 42, 44, 44] sts)
Rnds 3-11 [11, 11, 17, 17]: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first st.
[Rep from Rnd 2] 1 [1, 2, 1, 1] times, ending after rnd 21 [21, 31, 33, 33]. (36 [38, 38, 42, 42] sts)
Rep Rnds 2-6 [10, 4, 8, 14] once more, ending after rnd 26 [30, 34, 40, 46]. (34 [36, 36, 40, 40] sts)
Arm Chart
Cuff
Turn, with E, sl st in first st, fasten off A.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc2tog, [dc in next 2 [4, 4, 5, 5] sts, dc2tog] 7 [5, 5, 5, 5] times, dc in last 3 [3, 3, 2, 2] sts, join with sl st in first st. (26 [30, 30, 34, 34] sts)
Rnds 2-4 (RS): Ch 2 (counts as bpdc), do not turn, fpdc around next st, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] around, join with sl st in first st, fasten off.
Cuff Chart
Collar Ribbing
With RS facing, join E in either shoulder seam.
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 49 [51, 55, 59, 61] dc evenly spaced around neckline. (50 [52, 56, 60, 62] sts)
Note: You can work more or fewer sts if desired for a tighter or looser collar, as long as it is an even number of sts.
Rnds 2-4: Ch 2 (counts as bpdc), do not turn, fpdc around next st, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] around, join with sl st in first st, fasten off.
Collar Ribbing Chart
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Crochet Snowman Post Topper
At the top of my stairs, there is a post with a ball-shaped cap. Do you have one like that? Dress it up for the holiday season with a crochet Snowman Post Topper!
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A Friend’s Suggestion
My first post-topper pattern was a Pumpkin Post Topper for fall.
I shared this pattern on social media just before Halloween, and a friend said I should make a snowman for Christmas. So I did. Thanks for the idea, Melissa!
Holiday Stashdown Crochet Along
This crochet snowman post topper is my design for the 2024 Holiday Stashdown CAL, hosted by CAL Central Crochet. This is our 10th annual holiday stashdown, and it’s always our most popular CAL of the year.
See the full schedule in the main CAL post. While you’re there, be sure to enter the giveaway for a chance at some fabulous prizes! Then crochet along and join in the fun on the CAL Central Facebook group.
A Newel Post Finial?
If you didn’t know, these staircase posts are called “newel posts” and the caps are called “finials.” Don’t have a ball-shaped finial or similar object? This adorable snowman is just as happy to sit on the edge of a ledge or shelf!
Since the gauge is quite tight, it should be able to sit nicely without any stuffing. If you do want to stuff it, you can do that too and then add a base. Crochet a small circle for the base following the instructions for Rnds 1-4 of the Hat and matching the color of the Scarf. After attaching the Scarf, stuff your Snowman and sew the Base in place around the bottom edge of the scarf.
Button Safety
In general, the tops of newel posts should be too high up for little fingers to reach. Also, since we don’t have small children, it was safe enough for me to glue buttons to the face for the eyes and mouth. For added security you can sew the buttons in place instead.
If there is any chance of a small child (or pet) playing with the Snowman, I recommend skipping buttons altogether and embroidering the entire face.
Materials
- Yarn: Worsted weight yarn
- 40 yds color A (shown in red)
- 40 yds color B (shown in off-white)
- 2 yds orange (for nose)
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
- 1/2 inch / 12.5 mm buttons – 2 (for eyes)
- 3/8 inch / 9 mm buttons – 5 (for mouth)
- 1″ / 2.5 cm pom pom
- Hot glue and hot glue gun OR needle and thread in matching colors (for attaching buttons and pom pom)
Project Level
Intermediate: Continuous rounds, front and back post double crochet, some seaming and embroidery.
Sizes
3.5 inches / 8.8 cm diameter at widest point. Designed to fit a 3.5″ / 8.8 cm ball-shaped newel post finial.
Gauge
13 sc x 14 rnds = 4 inches / 10 cm
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- ch = chain
- dec = decrease (see Special Stitches)
- inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
- rem = remain(s/ing)
- rep = repeat
- rnd = round
- RS = right side(s)
- sc = single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- yo = yarn over
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, sc in both loops (like normal) of same st. (See increase tutorial here)
Decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both indicated sts, yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through both loops on hook.
This is an alternative to a single crochet 2-together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Instructions
Hat
Hat is worked in continuous rnds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark first st of each rnd.
With A, ch 2.
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in next st, inc in next st] around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in next st, inc in next st, [sc in each of next 2 sts, inc in next st] around to last st, sc in last st. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [Inc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts] around to last st, sc in last st. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in each of next 2 sts, inc in next st, [sc in each of next 4 sts, inc in next st] around to last 2 sts, sc in each of last 2 sts. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: Sc in each st around, join with sl st to first st.
Rnd 8: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first st.
Rnd 9: Ch 1, [fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st] around, join with sl st to first st.
Fasten off.
Head
Head is worked in continuous rnds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark first st of each rnd.
With RS facing and working into unused tops of sts of Rnd 12 behind fpdc of rnd 13, join white with sl st in st behind any fpdc
Rnd 10 (RS): Inc in same st, sk st in front of next bpdc, [inc in st behind next fpdc, sk st in front of next bpdc] around. (36 sts)
Rnds 11-14: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 15: Sc in next 2 sts, dec, [sc in next 4 sts, dec] around to last 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts. (30 sts)
Rnd 16: [Dec, sc in next 3 sts] around. (24 sts)
Rnd 17: Sc in each st around, join with sl st in first st.
Fasten off.
Scarf
Scarf is reversible. Either side can be RS or WS.
With C, ch 8.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (7 sts)
Rows 2-49: Ch 1, turn, sc in blo of each st across.
Work more rows if desired for a longer scarf. Make a note of how many rows extra you worked.
Fasten off.
Fringe
Cut 14 lengths of C, 6 in / 15 cm long each.
For each strand of fringe, fold 1 length in half. Insert hook through desired st and pull folded end of strand about halfway through, forming a loop. Pull cut ends of strand through loop and pull ends to tighten.
Place 1 strand of fringe in each st along both short edges of Scarf. Trim fringe ends as desired.
Assembly
Weave in all ends prior to assembly.
Scarf
Scarf has 49 rows. 12 rows on one end and 13 rows on other end become tails of Scarf, leaving 24 rows in the center to sew to Head. If you added extra rows to make Scarf longer, add 1/2 of number of added rows to each tail of Scarf.
Sk first 12 rows from either short end of Scarf, plus 1/2 of any added rows (rounded up). Decide where you would like the center front of Head to be.
Beginning with next row of scarf and at center front of head, sew long edge of scarf to RS of bottom of head, matching 1 stitch on head for every row of scarf. This will stretch scarf slightly so that after sewing, it will stretch and contract over the post, drawing the bottom of the head in and holding it in place. After sewing all the way around head, there should be 13 rows (plus half of any extra rows) remaining.
Fold one end of scarf back on itself at an angle so that tail hangs nearly straight downwards but not quite completely straight. Sew fold in place.
Lay other end of scarf on top of first tail and fold at a similar angle. Sew fold in place.
Face
Using image as guide, embroider a triangle-shaped nose with orange in center of face, directly above scarf tails.
Glue or sew buttons in place for eyes and mouth, being careful not to glue layers of head together. You may find it helpful to arrange buttons first without gluing, and then mark location of each button with a marker. Be careful doing this as it will stain the fabric.
Pom Pom
Glue or sew pom pom to top of hat.
Finishing
Weave in any remaining ends.
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Crochet White Ash Leaf Pattern
Add lovely leaves to your fall decor with this crochet white ash leaf pattern! Make leaves of all different sizes and textures by switching up your yarn and hook.
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Use Almost Any Yarn!
This white ash leaf pattern will work with almost any yarn or thread. Yarns that vary in thickness (i.e. thick-and-thin yarns) may affect the final shape and look of the leaf.
Use a hook that gives you a medium to firm gauge with the yarn or thread you choose. The size of your leaf and the yardage needed will vary depending on your yarn and hook choices.
Fall Leaf Collection
This pattern is part of a collection of fall leaf crochet patterns. Once I have published several leaf patterns, I plan to put them into an e-book. It may be some time before that’s completed, but I will link it here when it is! Meanwhile, you may enjoy these other leaf patterns:
About White Ash Trees
White Ash Trees are not generally recommended in our area because they are susceptible to the emerald ash borer, but I still see many of them on walks. They are particularly stunning in the fall and can be one of the earliest trees to change colors.
White Ash leaves can turn a wide range of different colors, depending on the specific cultivar and soil conditions. They can be yellow, red, or my favorite, a dark maroon purple. The leaves are compound, with several individual leaves paired up along one larger stem.
Materials
- Yarn: Any yarn of your choice. Sample shown used 7 yds (6.4 m) of worsted weight yarn.
- Hook: Hook size that gives a medium to firm gauge with your chosen yarn. Sample shown with size H (5mm) crochet hook.
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Easy: Basic stitches in rows.
Size / Gauge
Exact gauge is not important. Size, gauge, and amount of yarn needed will vary depending on yarn/hook choices. Sample shown is approximately 3.75″ (9.4 cm) long, not including stem, and 2″ (5 cm) wide at widest point.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet
- dc2tog = double crochet next 2 sts or chs together
- hdc = half double crochet
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet next 2 sts or chs together
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stich(es)
- WS = wrong Side
Pattern Notes
- Chs at the beginning of a row do not count as a st unless otherwise indicated.
- Sl sts are not included in st counts at the end of each row.
- Either side can be the right side or wrong side as desired.
Instructions
Scroll down for chart.
Row 1 (WS): Ch 17, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 2 chs, ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in each of next 2 chs, tr in each of next 3 chs, hdc in each of next 4 chs, sc2tog, ch 2, place marker around ch-2 just made, working on opposite side of chain, sc2tog in next 2 chs, hdc in each of next 4 chs, dc in next ch, tr in each of next 3 chs, dc in each of next 2 chs, dc2tog. (2 sc2tog, 8 hdc, 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 tr)
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), turn, hdc in next st, dc in each of next 5 sts, hdc in next st, sc2tog, sl st in each of next 2 sts, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in ch-2 sp, remove marker, sl st in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog, hdc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 5 sts, hdc in last st. (2 sc2tog, 6 hdc, 10 dc, 1 ch-2 sp)
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Wash and block to shape.
White Ash Leaf Chart
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Around the Corner Mitered Square Crochet Washcloth Pattern
Your favorite waschloth pattern is right around the corner with the Around the Corner mitered square crochet washcloth. Build a square outwards from a starting corner, then wrap it in a simple border. Optional surface crochet adds an extra finishing touch. Mix and match colors as desired for a washcloth that’s uniquely yours!
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Washcloth of the Month Crochet Along
I designed this washcloth for the 2024 washcloth of the Month CAL. This year-long event is hosted by Rhondda from Oombawka Designs and Amy from The Stitchin Mommy. Follow along for 3 new washcloth patterns every month! The other two patterns this month are the V-stitch Washcloth by Rhondda and the Ribbed Single Crochet Washcloth by Amy.
Free PDF with Coupon Code!
As part of the CAL, you can get the pdf version of this mitered square washcloth pattern for FREE on Ravelry with a coupon code! But hurry, this code is only valid for a short time and then it’s gone!
Coupon Code: WashclothCAL
Terms: This code expires at 11:59 pm Eastern time on Monday, October 14th, 2024. Please make sure the discount shows in your cart before completing checkout. Due to the fees involved, I cannot refund accidental purchases.
Lion Brand 24/7 Yarn
For my washcloth, I chose Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton yarn from my stash. Lion Brand had previously given me this yarn for other projects. This soft, durable, mercerized cotton yarn is my go-to for home decor items like washcloths and coasters.
It comes in a wide palette of colors from soft pastels to bright, bold jewel tones, and everything inbetween. I chose an autumn combination of 158R Goldenrod, 133 Tangerine, 172H Grass, and 122D Taupe.
Fun With Mitered Squares
Mitered squares can become building blocks for larger patterns. In the Modular Mitered Pillow, 2 different, 2-color mitered squares are combined in a variety of arrangements.
Mitered Crochet Rectangles too!
Mitered crochet is not just for squares! Try mitered rectangles for a fun pair of Mitered Mitts. This pattern works particularly well with self-striping yarns.
Materials
- Yarn: 85 yds Lion Brand – 100% acrylic, worsted-weight yarn (257 yds / 3.5 oz / 100 g per skein). Sample shown in:
- 9 yds 172H Grass
- 12 yds 158R Goldenrod
- 24 yds 133 Tangerine
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Easy: Basic stitches in rows. single crochet edging round. Optional surface crochet.
Size
9″ square.
Gauge
Use pattern for gauge swatch: Rows 1-5 should measure approximately 3″ square. Gauge is not critical for this pattern as it can be made to any size. Any changes to gauge or size will affect amount of yarn needed.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources
Instructions
Change colors as desired throughout pattern.
Square
Row 1: Ch 4, (dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in 4th ch from hook (3 skipped chs count as dc). (4 dc, 1 ch-1 sp)
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), dc in next st, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1 sp, dc in each of last 2 sts. (8 dc, 1 ch-1 sp)
Row 3: Ch 3, dc in each st to ch-1 sp, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1 sp, dc in each remaining st across. (12 dc, 1 ch-1 sp)
Rows 4-14: [Rep Row 3] 11 times. (56 dc, 1 ch-1 sp)
Work should now measure 8.5″ square. To adjust size, work more or fewer repeats of row 3. Each row adds 4 dc to st count. Last row worked will be a WS row.
Border
Edging Rnd (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st to ch-1 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-1 sp, sc in each st across, ch 2, working in sides of rows, 2 sc in each row to corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-1 sp at base of Row 1, 2 sc in each row to beginning corner, ch 2, join with sl st in first st. Fasten off. (60 sc, 1 ch-1 sp)
Surface Crochet (optional)
A round of surface crochet hides bottoms of edging sts for a neater finish.
With RS up and holding working yarn under washcloth, insert hook at base of 2nd st after any ch-2 sp of Edging Rnd, pull up a loop, [sl st in base of each st to next ch-2 sp, sk ch-2 sp, sk next st] 4 times, sl st in base of same st as beginning of rnd. Fasten off.
Finishing
Wash and block. Weave in ends.
Around the Corner Washcloth Chart
Chart does not show optional surface crochet.
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Crochet River Birch Leaf Pattern
Add lovely leaves to your fall decor with this crochet river birch leaf pattern! Make leaves of all different sizes and textures by switching up your yarn and hook.
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Use Almost Any Yarn!
This river birch leaf pattern will work with almost any yarn or thread. Yarns that vary in thickness (i.e. thick-and-thin yarns) may affect the final shape and look of the leaf.
Use a hook that gives you a medium to firm gauge with the yarn or thread you choose. The size of your leaf and the yardage needed will vary depending on your yarn and hook choices.
Fall Leaf Collection
This pattern is part of a collection of fall leaf crochet patterns. Once I have several leaf patterns published, I plan to put them together into an e-book. It may be some time before that’s completed, but when it is I will link it here! Meanwhile, you may enjoy these other leaf patterns:
About River Birch Trees
This species of birch is particularly popular in the Chicago suburb where I live. They are resistant to some common pests, grow quickly, and look spectacular in their golden fall glory.
Leaf shapes vary slightly between birch species, with some being slightly more rounded or oval-shaped, particularly at the bottom. The easiest way to tell a river birch apart from other birches is not by its leaves, but rather by its trunk. The redish-brown bark peels away in large, chunky sheets, giving the trunk a distinct texture. It’s much rougher looking than other birch trees.
Materials
- Yarn: Any yarn of your choice. Sample shown used 10 yds (9.1m) of worsted weight, cotton yarn.
- Hook: Hook size that gives a medium to firm gauge with your chosen yarn. Sample shown with size H (5mm) crochet hook.
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Easy: Single crochet and chain loops with shaping
Size / Gauge
Exact gauge is not important. Size, gauge, and amount of yarn needed will vary depending on yarn/hook choices. Sample shown is approximately 5″ (12.5 cm) long, not including stem, and 3.5″ (8.8 cm) wide at widest point.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- cdec = center decrease (see Special Stitch)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stich(es)
- yo = yarn over
Special Stitch
Center Decrease (cdec): Insert hook in next st, yo and pull up a loop, sk next st or sl st, insert hook in next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
This is an sc2tog worked over 3 sts (or 2 sts and a sl st) by skipping the st or sl st at the center.
Pattern Notes
- Chs at the beginning of a row do not count as a st unless otherwise indicated.
- Sl sts are not included in st counts at the end of each row.
- Either side can be the right side or wrong side as desired.
Instructions
Scroll down for chart.
Foundation & Stem: Ch 7 (first half of foundation), [ch 7 more for stem, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next 5 chs (stem made)], ch 10 (2nd half of foundation and turning ch).
For a longer or shorter stem, make more or fewer chs in the stem portion. You will need at least 1 stem ch to work into on the first row.
Row 1: Sc in 4th ch from hook and in next 4 chs, sc2tog in next 2 chs, sc in stem, sc2tog in next 2 chs, sc in last 5 chs. (13 sts)
Row 2: Ch 3, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog in next 2 sts, sl st in next st, sc2tog in next 2 sts, sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. (12 sts)
Row 3: Ch 3, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 4 sts, cdec, sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in last st. (13 sts)
Row 4: Ch 3, turn, sk first st, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog in next 2 sts, sl st in next st, sc2tog in next 2 sts, sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sk last st. (10 sts)
Row 5: Ch 3, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 3 sts, cdec, sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. (11 sts)
Row 6: Ch 3, turn, sk first st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, sc2tog in next 2 sts, sl st in next st, sc2tog in next 2 sts, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sk last st. (8 sts)
Row 7: Ch 3, turn, sk first st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, cdec, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sk last st. (7 sts)
Row 8: Ch 3, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc2tog in next 2 sts, sl st in next st, sc2tog in next 2 sts, 2 sc in last st. (6 sts)
Row 9: Ch 3, turn, sk first st, 2 sc in next st, cdec, 2 sc in next st, sk last st. (5 sts)
Row 10: Ch 2, turn, sc in first st, cdec, sc in last st. (3 sts)
Row 11: Ch 2, turn, cdec, ch 3, sl st in top of cdec just made. (1 st)
Fasten off.
River Birch Leaf Chart
Finishing
Wash and block, pinning the ch-3 and ch-2 “points” to open them up. Blocking is important for this pattern. For best results, do not skip this step.
Weave in all ends.
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Moon Phases Wall Hanging Crochet Pattern
Easy to follow and fun to make, this Moon Phases Wall Hanging crochet pattern adds a touch of magic to any room. Filet crochet lace illuminates the moon phases on a solid background, creating an ethereal effect perfect for Halloween / Samhain, and beyond.
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CAL Central Halloween Crochet Along
This Moon Phases Wall Hanging is my design for the 2024 Halloween Crochet Along at CAL Central. Join in the fun on the Facebook Group. See the main post for the full schedule, other patterns, and giveaway information too!
Not Just for Halloween!
This Moon Phases Wall Hanging is a beautiful decoration for Samhain / Halloween, and also for the rest of the year! Display it on a wall or door, or use it as a table runner or altar cloth. Hang it in a window to cast lunar shadows as light filters through the filet crochet mesh.
Caron One Pound Yarn
Yarnspirations gave me the Caron One Pound Yarn to use for this project. I chose this yarn because it’s a sturdy, hard-wearing acrylic that’s still soft and enjoyable to work with. It will hold up to the repeated rounds of hanging, washing, and storing that this piece is likely to face.
Choosing Black (635) gave the greatest contrast against a white wall or door, but this design would look equally lovely in other colors. For a bit of color, try Deep Violet (547), Dark Grey Mix (618), or Midnight Blue (546).
Filet Crochet
The Basics
If you’re not familiar with Filet crochet, it’s a fun and easy technique to learn! It uses double crochet and chain spaces to create solid blocks and open mesh blocks. Learn the basics of filet crochet, including how to read the charts, in this filet crochet tutorial. For this pattern, I’ve made a few changes from the tutorial.
- The tutorial uses double crochet (dc), where this pattern uses extended double crochet (edc).
- Instead of a “beginning mesh”, the first edc of each row is worked separately.
- Working into each chain directly where applicable, rather than working into the chain spaces. This adds just a bit more structure to the design. If you prefer though, you can work into the chain spaces instead.
Advanced Stitches
The center (full moon) of this Moon Phases Wall Hanging design uses 2 advanced filet crochet stitches: the lacet stitch and the rectangle. Though these are considered advanced, they are no more difficult than the basic stitches.
The rectangle uses a chain-5 space to create a large open rectangle across 2 blocks. The lacet stitch also covers 2 blocks, but has a single crochet in the middle. Paired together, they create a wider, open space with a curvy shape to it.
Materials
- Yarn: 380 yds Caron One Pound – 100% acrylic, worsted-weight yarn (812 yds / 16oz / 454g per skein), shown in #635 Black
- Hook: Size I / 5.5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Easy: Filet crochet with lacet and rectangle stitches.
Sizes
15″ wide x 48″ tall not counting hanging loops
Gauge
13 edc x 5 rows = 4″, after blocking.
Note: The added height of the edc helps make each block/mesh more square. The width of 3 sts or chs should approximately equal the height of 1 row. If you find that your stitches are too tall, you can switch to regular dc instead.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet
- edc = extended double crochet (see Special Stitches)
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet
- sk = skip
- sl st = slip stitch
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- yo = yarn over
Recommended Resources
- How to Crochet Without a Slip Knot
- Basic Filet Crochet (see note below)
Note: The Basic Filet Crochet tutorial has some differences from this pattern, but is a great general foundation in the technique. That tutorial uses dc instead of edc. It also defines a “beginning mesh” which is a mesh with an extra dc. Here the starting edc is written separately. Finally, it shows working into chain spaces whereas this pattern works into each chain.
Special Stitches
Extended Double Crochet (edc)
Yo, insert hook in indicated st or ch, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 1 lp on hook, [yo and pull through 2 loops on hook twice].
Mesh
Ch 2, sk next 2 sts/chs, edc in next st.
Block
Edc in each of next 3 sts/chs.
Note: When edc are worked into chs, you can work them into the ch-sp instead, if preferred. For example, you can work 2 edc in a ch-2 sp, instead of 1 edc in each of the 2 chs.
Lacet stitch (lacet)
Worked over 2 blocks/mesh.
Ch 2, sk next 2 sts/chs, sc in next st/ch, ch 2, sk next 2 sts/chs, edc in next st.
Rectangle (rect)
Worked over 2 blocks/mesh.
Ch 5, sk next 5 sts/chs, edc in next st.
Instructions
Section 1
Scroll down for chart.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 51, edc in 4th ch from hook (3 skipped chs count as first edc), edc in each rem ch across. (49 edc)
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first edc throughout), turn, block across. (1 edc, 16 blocks)
Rows 3 & 4: Ch 3, turn, 2 blocks, 1 mesh, 10 blocks, 1 mesh, 2 blocks. (1 edc, 14 blocks, 2 mesh)
Row 5: Ch 3, turn, 2 blocks, 2 mesh, 8 blocks, 2 mesh, 2 blocks. (1 edc, 12 blocks, 4 mesh)
Row 6: Ch 3, turn, 2 blocks, 3 mesh, 6 blocks, 3 mesh, 2 blocks. (1 edc, 10 blocks, 6 mesh)
Row 7: Ch 3, turn, 2 blocks, 4 mesh, 4 blocks, 4 mesh, 2 blocks. (1 edc, 8 blocks, 8 mesh)
Row 8: Ch 3, turn, 3 blocks, 10 mesh, 3 blocks. (1 edc, 6 blocks, 10 mesh)
Row 9: Ch 3, turn, 4 blocks, 8 mesh, 4 blocks. (1 edc, 8 blocks, 8 mesh)
Row 10: Ch 3, turn, 5 blocks, 6 mesh, 5 blocks. (1 edc, 10 blocks, 6 mesh)
Row 11: Ch 3, turn, block across. (1 edc, 16 blocks)
Sections 1 & 5 Chart
Note: The starting ch-3 (first edc) of each row is not shown separately on the chart. For all charts in this pattern, start each row with a ch-3, which counts as the first stitch.
This same chart is used for Rows 1-11 of Section 1, and Rows 50-59 of Section 5.
Section 2
Scroll down for chart.
Row 12: Ch 3, turn, block across. (1 edc, 16 blocks)
Row 13: Ch 3, turn, 3 blocks, 1 mesh, 8 blocks, 1 mesh, 3 blocks. (1 edc, 14 blocks, 2 mesh)
Row 14: Ch 3, turn, 2 blocks, 2 mesh, 8 blocks, 2 mesh, 2 blocks. (1 edc, 12 blocks, 4 mesh)
Row 15: Ch 3, turn, 2 blocks, 3 mesh, 6 blocks, 3 mesh, 2 blocks. (1 edc, 10 blocks, 6 mesh)
Row 16: Ch 3, turn, 2 blocks, 4 mesh, 4 blocks, 4 mesh, 2 blocks. (1 edc, 8 blocks, 8 mesh)
Rows 17-19: Ch 3, turn, 2 blocks, 12 mesh, 2 blocks. (1 edc, 4 blocks, 12 mesh)
Row 20: Ch 3, turn, 3 blocks, 10 mesh, 3 blocks. (1 edc, 6 blocks, 10 mesh)
Row 21: Ch 3, turn, 4 blocks, 8 mesh, 4 blocks. (1 edc, 8 blocks, 8 mesh)
Row 22: Ch 3, turn, 5 blocks, 6 mesh, 5 blocks. (1 edc, 10 blocks, 6 mesh)
Row 23: Ch 3, turn, block across. (1 edc, 16 blocks)
Sections 2 & 4 Chart
This same chart is used for Rows 12-23 of Section 2, and Rows 38-49 of Section 4.
Section 3
Scroll down for chart.
Row 24: Ch 3, turn, block across. (1 edc, 16 blocks)
Row 25: Ch 3, turn, 5 blocks, 6 mesh, 5 blocks. (1 edc, 10 blocks, 6 mesh)
Row 26: Ch 3, turn, 4 blocks, 1 mesh, 3 lacet, 1 mesh, 4 blocks. (1 edc, 8 blocks, 2 mesh, 3 lacet)
Row 27: Ch 3, turn, 3 blocks, 2 mesh, 3 rect, 2 mesh, 3 blocks. (1 edc, 6 blocks, 4 mesh, 3 rect)
Row 28: Ch 3, turn, 2 blocks, 2 mesh, 4 lacet, 2 mesh, 2 blocks. (1 edc, 4 blocks, 4 mesh, 4 lacet)
Row 29: Ch 3, turn, 2 blocks, 2 mesh, 4 rect, 2 mesh, 2 blocks. (1 edc, 4 blocks, 4 mesh, 4 rect)
Row 30: Ch 3, turn, 2 blocks, 1 mesh, 5 lacet, 1 mesh, 2 blocks. (1 edc, 4 blocks, 2 mesh, 5 lacet)
Row 31: Ch 3, turn, 2 blocks, 1 mesh, 5 rect, 1 mesh, 2 blocks. (1 edc, 4 blocks, 2 mesh, 5 rect)
Rows 32 & 33: Repeat Rows 28 & 29.
Row 34: Ch 3, turn, 3 blocks, 2 mesh, 3 lacet, 2 mesh, 3 blocks. (1 edc, 6 blocks, 4 mesh, 3 lacet)
Row 35: Ch 3, turn, 4 blocks, 1 mesh, 3 rect, 1 mesh, 4 blocks. (1 edc, 8 blocks, 2 mesh, 3 rect)
Row 36: Repeat Row 25.
Row 37: Ch 3, turn, block across. (1 edc, 16 blocks)
Section 3 Chart
Section 4:
See Section 2 for chart.
Rows 38-49: In reverse order, repeat rows 23-12 of Section 2.
Section 5:
See Section 1 chart above and Row 60 chart below.
Rows 50-59: In reverse order, repeat rows 11-2 of Section 1.
Row 60: Ch 10, turn, sl st in 8th ch from hook (counts as first dc and ch-7 loop), [edc in next 6 sts, ch 7, sl st in edc just made] across. (49 edc, 9 ch-7 hanging loops)—
Row 60 Chart:
Finishing
Weave in ends.
Wash and block. Blocking is important in this pattern, to open up the lace.
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Crochet Ginkgo Leaf Pattern
Add lovely leaves to your fall decor with this crochet ginkgo leaf pattern! Make leaves of all different sizes and textures by switching up your yarn and hook.
This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Use Almost Any Yarn!
This ginkgo leaf pattern will work with almost any yarn or thread. Yarns that vary in thickness (i.e. thick-and-thin yarns) may affect the final shape and look of the leaf.
Use a hook that gives you a medium to firm gauge with the yarn or thread you choose. The size of your leaf and the yardage needed will vary depending on your yarn and hook choices.
Fall Leaf Collection
This pattern is part of a collection of fall leaf crochet patterns. Once I have several leaf patterns published, I plan to put them together into an e-book. It may be some time before that’s completed, but when it is I will link it here! Meanwhile, you may enjoy these other leaf patterns:
Ginkgo Biloba – A Living Fossil
One of my teachers in school was madly in love with ginkgo trees, and his enthusiasm rubbed off on me. Ginkgos are one of the oldest living species of trees. So old, in fact, that it has outlived the dinosaurs and is often called a “living fossil”.
The species Ginkgo Biloba (the Ginkgo trees we have today) is entirely unique. It is the last of it’s genus Ginkgo, which is alone in its family, order, class, and even phylum. It’s the lone surviving link between ferns and conifers.
What’s That Smell?
Ginkgos either produce fruit or produce pollen. The fruit of Ginkgo trees smells horrible. It has an odor caused by butyric acid, the same chemical that gives rancid butter its distinctive smell. As a result, most Ginkgo trees used in landscaping these days are pollen-producing trees, cloned from other pollen-producing trees. (Source: Arnold Arboretum of Harvard )
Note: Ginkgos and Ginkgoes are both accepted plurals of Ginkgo.
Ginkgo Leaves
Ginkgo leaves are usually pictured splitting off into 2 separate lobes (bifurcated). Not all Ginkgo leaves are actually bifurcated, but the coolest ones are! The leaves start off with a unique fan shape, which then may or may not split into separate lobes.
In the fall, Ginkgo leaves turn a bright yellow. The color can range from a nearly neon, lemon yellow to a shiny gold. The yarn I chose is probably a bit more orange in tone than an actual ginkgo leaf would get.
Ginkgo Leaf Video Tutorial
Need a little help with this pattern? Check out the video tutorial!
Materials
- Yarn: Any yarn of your choice. Sample shown used 10 yds of worsted weight, cotton yarn.
- Hook: Hook size that gives a medium to firm gauge with your chosen yarn. Sample shown with size H (5mm) crochet hook.
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Intermediate: Basic stitches with short row shaping.
Size / Gauge
Exact gauge is not important. Size, gauge, and yardage needed will vary depending on yarn/hook choices. Sample shown is approximately 2.5″ long, not including stem, and 4″ wide at widest point.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stich(es)
Pattern Notes
- Ch 1 or ch 2 at the beginning of a row does not count as a st unless otherwise indicated.
- Either side can be the right side or wrong side as desired.
Instructions
Scroll down for chart.
Foundation: Ch 19.
For a longer or shorter stem, make more or fewer chains, but no fewer than 11.
First Lobe
Row 1: Sc in 3rd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, leave remaining chs unworked. (1 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in sl st, sc in next sc. (2 sc)
Row 3: Ch 2, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next unworked ch on Foundation, sl st in next unworked ch on Foundation. (3 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in sl st, sc in each sc across. (4 sc)
Rows 5-7: Repeat Rows 3 & 4, then repeat Row 3 once more. (7 sc on Row 7)
Second Lobe
Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc in sl st, sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sk last sc. (8 sc)
Row 9: Ch 2, turn, sc in first sc, sl st in next sc, leave remaining sc unworked. (1 sc)
Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc in sl st, sc in next sc. (2 sc)
Row 11: Ch 2, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next unworked sc of Row 8, sl st in next unworked sc of Row 8. (3 sc)
Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc in sl st, sc in each sc across. (4 sc)
Rows 13-14: Repeat Rows 11 & 12. (6 sc on Row 14)
Row 15: Ch 2, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next unworked sc of Row 8, sl st in last unworked sc of Row 8, sl st in each remaining unworked ch of Foundation. (7 sc)
Ginkgo Leaf Chart
Finishing
Wash and block, pinning the ch-2 “points” to open them up, and straightening the foundation chain slightly as desired. Blocking is important for this pattern. For best results, do not skip this step.
To make the stem curl slightly if desired, weave one tail straight up through the stem and pull gently. When satisfied with shape, weave end in to secure. Weave in remaining end.
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Dynamic Duo Striped Crochet Hat Pattern
Ready for something new? Try the Dynamic Duo Hat! This striped crochet hat pattern mixes different yarn weights, using different pattern stitches to balance them out. It’s fast, fun, and easy to make. With 5 sizes from infant to adult, everyone will want one!
This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Hat of the Month Crochet Along
I designed this hat for the 2024 Hat of the Month CAL. This year-long event is hosted by Rhondda from Oombawka Designs and Amy from The Stitchin Mommy. Follow along for 3 new hat patterns every month! The other two patterns this month are the Serene Reflections Hat by Rhondda and the Audrey Beanie by Amy.
Scarf of the Month Crochet Along
Rhondda and Amy also run a Scarf of the Month CAL. It works the same way as the hats, and I was the guest designer for August for that CAL as well. Get the Dynamic Duo Scarf pattern, and make a matching set!
Don’t Miss the Coupon Codes!
As part of the CAL, each of the patterns is available free with a coupon code for one day only.
Visit the main Hat of the Month CAL and Scarf of the Month CAL posts and sign up for the monthly reminder emails so you don’t miss the next one!
King Cole Yarns
For this striped crochet hat pattern, I chose 2 completely different King Cole yarns. Comfort Aran is a soft, acrylic, worsted-weight yarn. I chose the color Truffle, and paired it with Chunky Tweed in Skye.
Chunky Tweed is a delightfully light and lofty blend of Acrylic and wool, with just a touch of viscose. Bits of colorful fiber spun throughout give it a tweedy look.
2 Stitch Patterns
How can you pair a chunky yarn with a worsted weight yarn and expect to get a consistent gauge? By using a different stitch pattern for each! Plain double crochet in the worsted weight yarn and linen stitch in the chunky yarn come together to make this striped crochet hat pattern.
Linen stitch, with its many chain spaces, tends to draw the stitches in for a tighter stitch gauge than plain single or double crochet. The larger gauge of a bulkier yarn compensates for this difference.
Materials
- Yarn:
- A: 30 [55, 75, 90, 110, 120] yds King Cole Comfort Aran – 100% acrylic, worsted-weight yarn (257 yds / 3.5 oz / 100 g per skein), shown in #158R Goldenrod
- B: 25 [35, 45, 55, 65, 75] yds King Cole Chunky Tweed – 72% premium acrylic, 25% wool, 3% viscose, bulky-weight yarn (150 yds / 3.5 oz / 100g per skein), shown in #1077 Skye
- Hook: Size J / 6 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Easy: Alternating simple stitch patterns, changing colors, increases.
Sizes
Newborn [Baby, Toddler, Child, Small, Large]
Hat circumference: 11.5 [13.5, 15.25, 17.25, 19.25, 21]”
To fit head circumference: 12-14 [14-16, 16-18, 18-20, 20-22, 22-24]”
Gauge
With A, 14 dc and 6 dc rounds = 4.5″ after blocking.
Use pattern as gauge swatch. Rnds 1-4 of Crown should measure approximately 3.5″ in diameter after blocking.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- ch = chain
- csdc = chainless starting double crochet (see Special Stitch)
- dc = double crochet
- rnd = round
- sc = single crochet
- sk = skip
- sl st = slip stitch
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- yo = yarn over
Recommended Resources
Special Stitch
Chainless Starting Double Crochet (csdc)
Pull working loop up to the height of a dc. Hold the loop in place, and in a counterclockwise motion, twist your hook around the loop, creating a “yarn over”. Holding both loops in place, insert your hook into the specified stitch, yo and pull up a loop.
(Yo and pull through 2 loops on your hook) twice, just as you would finish a normal double crochet. Csdc counts as a dc in stitch counts at the end of rnds.
For a more detailed look, see this csdc tutorial.
If you prefer, you can replace the csdc wherever it appears with a chain 3, or with stacked single crochets.
Pattern Notes
Join rnds where indicated with sl st in first st of rnd.
To change colors as indicated, use new color to work indicated sl st. It is not necessary to cut yarn after each color change. Unused colors can be carried up along the beginning of each rnd until needed again.
On all charts, work only the stitches in black. The greyed-out stitches show how the beginning and ending of rnds meet.
Instructions
Crown
With A, ch 2
Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st now and throughout), (sc, ch 1) in each st around, join with sl st in first sc, change to B with sl st in first ch-1 sp of rnd. (6 sc, 6 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 3: With B and skipping all sc, (csdc, 3 dc) in first ch-1 sp, 4 dc in each remaining ch-1 sp around, join. (24 dc)
Rnd 4: (Csdc, dc) in first st, dc in next st, (2 dc in net st, dc in next st) around, change to A with sl st in first st of rnd. (36 dc)
Crown should now measure approximately 3.5″ in diameter.
Size Newborn only:
Continue to Body.
Newborn Crown Chart
Size Baby only:
Rnd 5: With A, ch 1, sc in first st, ch 1, sk next st, [sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st] around, join, sl st in first ch-1 sp. (18 sc, 18 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, skipping all sts, sc in same sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2, *[sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] twice, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2; rep from * around, join, change to B with sl st in first ch-1 sp. (18 sc, 12 ch-1 sps, 6 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 7: With B and skipping all sc, (csdc, dc) in same ch-1 sp, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, [2 dc in each of next 2 ch-1 sps, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp] around, join. (42 dc)
Rnd 8: Csdc in first st, dc in each rem st around, change to A with sl st in first st.
Baby Crown Chart
Size Toddler only:
Rnd 5: With A, ch 1, sc in first st, ch 1, sk next st, [sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st] around, join, sl st in first ch-1 sp. (18 sc, 18 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, skipping all sts, sc in same sp, ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2] twice, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2] twice; rep from * around, join, change to B with sl st in first ch-1 sp. (18 sc, 6 ch-1 sps, 12 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 7: With B and skipping all sc, (csdc, dc) in same ch-1 sp, 3 dc in each of next 2 ch-2 sps, [2 dc in next ch-1 sp, 3 dc in each of next 2 ch-2 sps] around, join. (48 dc)
Rnd 8: Csdc in first st, dc in each rem st around, change to A with sl st in first st.
Toddler Crown Chart
Size Child only:
Rnd 5: With A, ch 1, sc in first st, ch 1, sk next st, [sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st] around, join, sl st in first ch-1 sp. (18 sc, 18 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, skipping all sts, sc in same sp, ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2] twice, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2] twice; rep from * around, join, change to B with sl st in first ch-1 sp. (18 sc, 6 ch-1 sps, 12 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 7: With B and skipping all sc, (csdc, 2 dc) in same ch-1 sp, 3 dc in each remaining ch sp around, join. (54 dc)
Rnd 8: Csdc in first st, dc in each rem st around, change to A with sl st in first st.
Child Crown Chart
Size Small only:
Rnd 5: With A, ch 1, sc in first st, ch 1, sk next st, [sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st] around, join, sl st in first ch-1 sp. (18 sc, 18 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, skipping all sts, sc in same sp, ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2] twice, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2] twice; rep from * around, join, change to B with sl st in first ch-1 sp. (18 sc, 6 ch-1 sps, 12 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 7: With B and skipping all sc, (csdc, 2 dc) in same ch-1 sp, 3 dc in each remaining ch sp around, join. (54 dc)
Rnd 8: (Csdc, dc) in first st, dc in next 8 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 8 sts] around, change to A with sl st in first st. (60 dc)
Small Crown Chart
Size Large only:
Rnd 5: With A, ch 1, sc in first st, ch 1, sk next st, [sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st] around, join, sl st in first ch-1 sp. (18 sc, 18 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, skipping all sts, sc in same sp, ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2] twice, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2] twice; rep from * around, join, change to B with sl st in first ch-1 sp. (18 sc, 6 ch-1 sps, 12 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 7: With B and skipping all sc, (csdc, 2 dc) in same ch-1 sp, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, 4 dc in next ch-2 sp, [3 dc in next ch-1 sp, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, 4 dc in next ch-2 sp] around, join. (60 dc)
Rnd 8: (Csdc, dc) in first st, dc in next 9 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 9 sts] around, change to A with sl st in first st. (66 dc)
Large Crown Chart
Body (All Sizes)
Rnd 1: With A, With A, ch 1, sc in first st, ch 1, sk next st, [sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st] around, join, sl st in first ch-1 sp. (18, [21, 24, 27, 30, 33] sc, 18, [21, 24, 27, 30, 33] ch-1 sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, skipping all sc, sc in same sp, ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] around, join, change to B with sl st in first ch-1 sp.
Rnd 3: With B and skipping all sc, (csdc, dc) in same sp, 2 dc in each remaining ch-1 sp around, join. (36, [42, 48, 54, 60, 66] dc)
Rnd 4: Csdc in first st, dc in each remaining st around, change to A with sl st in first st st.
Sizes Newborn, Baby, Small only
Fasten off B.
Sizes Toddler & Child only
Rep Rnds 1-3 once more. Change to A in joining sl st of last rnd. Fasten off B.
Sizes Small & Large only
Rep Rnds 1-4. Fasten off B.
Body Chart (All Sizes)
Ribbing (All Sizes)
Rnd 1: With A, ch 1, hdc in each st around, join. (36, [42, 48, 54, 60, 66] hdc)
Rnd 2: Ch 2 (counts as bpdc), fpdc around next st, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] around, join in top of starting ch-2. (18, [21, 24, 27, 30, 33] bpdc, 18, [21, 24, 27, 30, 33] fpdc)
[Rep Rnd 2] 1 [1, 1, 2 2, 3] times or to desired length. Fasten off A at end of last rnd.
Ribbing Chart
Finishing
Weave in ends.
Wash and block. Blocking is important in this pattern, to open up the chain spaces.
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I hope you enjoyed this striped crochet hat pattern! A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format offsets the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Dynamic Duo Striped Crochet Scarf Pattern
Always on the move? Take the Dynamic Duo Scarf with you! This striped crochet scarf pattern mixes different yarn weights, using different pattern stitches to balance them out. It’s fast, fun, and easy to make.
This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Scarf of the Month Crochet Along
I designed this scarf for the 2024 Scarf of the Month CAL. This year-long event is hosted by Rhondda from Oombawka Designs and Amy from The Stitchin Mommy. Follow along for 3 new scarf patterns every month! The other two patterns this month are the Serene Reflections Scarf by Rhondda and the Audrey Scarf by Amy.
Hat of the Month Crochet Along
Rhondda and Amy also run a Hat of the Month CAL. It works the same way as the scarves, and I am the guest designer for August for that CAL as well. Check out the matching Dynamic Duo Hat pattern!
Don’t Miss the Coupon Codes!
As part of the CAL, each of the patterns is available free with a coupon code for one day only.
Visit the main Hat of the Month CAL and Scarf of the Month CAL posts and sign up for the monthly reminder emails so you don’t miss the next one!
King Cole Yarns
For this striped crochet scarf pattern, I chose 2 completely different King Cole yarns. Comfort Aran is a soft, acrylic, worsted-weight yarn. I chose the color Truffle, and paired it with Chunky Tweed in Skye.
Chunky Tweed is a delightfully light and lofty blend of Acrylic and wool, with just a touch of viscose. Bits of colorful fiber spun throughout give it a tweedy look.
2 Stitch Patterns
How can you pair a chunky yarn with a worsted weight yarn and expect to get a consistent gauge and straight edges? By using a different stitch pattern for each! Plain double crochet in the worsted weight yarn and linen stitch in the chunky yarn come together to make this striped crochet scarf pattern.
Linen stitch, with its many chain spaces, tends to draw the edges in for a tighter stitch gauge than plain single or double crochet. The larger gauge of a bulkier yarn compensates for this difference, pushing the edges right back out again.
Materials
- Yarn:
- A: 340 yds King Cole Comfort Aran – 100% acrylic, worsted-weight yarn (257 yds / 3.5 oz / 100 g per skein), shown in #3329 Truffle
- B: 140 yds King Cole Chunky Tweed – 72% premium acrylic, 25% wool, 3% viscose, bulky-weight yarn (150 yds / 3.5 oz / 100g per skein), shown in #1077 Skye
- Hook: Size J / 6 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Easy: Alternating simple stitch patterns, changing colors, chainless starting double crochet.
Size
8″ wide x 72″ long
Gauge
With A, 14 dc and 6 dc rows = 4.5″ after blocking.
Use pattern as gauge swatch. Rows 1-10 should measure approximately 8″ wide x 4″ long after blocking.
Exact gauge is not critical for this project but will affect yarn usage.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- ch = chain
- csdc = chainless starting double crochet (see Special Stitch)
- dc = double crochet
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet
- sk = skip
- sl st = slip stitch
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- yo = yarn over
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources
Special Stitch
Chainless Starting Double Crochet (csdc)
Pull working loop up to the height of a dc. Hold the loop in place, and in a counterclockwise motion, twist your hook around the loop, creating a “yarn over”. Holding both loops in place, insert your hook into the specified stitch, yo and pull up a loop.
(YO and pull through 2 loops on your hook) twice, just as you would finish a normal double crochet. Csdc counts as a dc in stitch counts at the end of rows.
For a more detailed look, see this csdc tutorial.
If you prefer, you can replace the csdc wherever it appears with a chain 3, or with stacked single crochets.
Instructions
To change colors where indicated, use new color to complete last “pull through” step of last st of row. It is not necessary to cut yarn after each color change. Unused colors can be carried up along the side edge until needed again.
Beginning Color B Stripe
With B, ch 26 (multiple of 2).
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, [ch 1, sk next ch, sc in next ch] across to last ch, sc in last ch. (14 sc, 11 ch-1 sps)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, [ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-1 sp] across to last 2 sts, ch 1, sk next st, sc in last st changing to A in last sc. (13 sc, 12 ch-1 sps)
First Color A Stripe
Row 3: With A and skipping all sc, turn, csdc in first st, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to last ch-1 sp, dc in last ch-1 sp, dc in last sc. (25 dc)
Row 4: Turn, csdc in first st, dc in each remaining st across, change to B in last st.
Color B Stripe
Row 5: With B, ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 sts, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next st) across to last st, sc in last st. (14 sc, 11 ch-1 sps)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, [ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-1 sp] across to last 2 sts, ch 1, sk next st, sc in last st changing to A in last sc. (13 sc, 12 ch-1 sps)
Second Color A Stripe
Row 7: With A and skipping all sc, turn, csdc in first st, dc in next ch-1 sp, 2 dc in each remaining ch-1 sp across, dc in last sc. (25 dc)
Row 8: Rep Row 5.
Color B Stripe
Rows 9-10: Rep Rows 6-7.
Remaining Stripes
[Repeat Rows 3-10] 19 times or to desired length. Do not change colors at end of last row.
Fasten off both colors and weave in ends.
Wash and block. Blocking is important in this pattern, to open up the chain spaces.
Dynamic Duo Scarf Chart
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Summer Sunset Crochet Coasters
Indoors or out, bring the gold and orange hues of a summer sunset to your next gathering with Summer Sunset coasters! Layers of stitches worked into rounds below create the beautifully blended rays of color in this lovely crochet coaster pattern. They are perfect for picnics, parties, or every day.
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This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Afternoon Delight Crochet Along
I designed this crochet coaster pattern for the CAL Central Afternoon Delight CAL. See the full schedule of patterns and all the event details in the main CAL post. Then, join in the fun and share your projects on the CAL Central Crochet Facebook group!
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton Yarn
For my Summer Sunset coasters, I dug into my stash for leftover 24/7 cotton yarn that Lion Brand had previously provided for other projects. This is one of my go-to yarns for summer and home decor projects. It has the strength and sheen of mercerized cotton, in a large variety of colors.
For the gold and orange hues of sunset, I chose #158R Goldenrod and #133 Tangerine. Then, the fiery colors fade into a summer evening sky of #108G Denim. Change the mood with floral or pastel colors instead, or use up any worsted weight cotton scraps you have!
Full Video Tutorial!
Need more help? See the full video tutorial for this pattern!
Materials
- Yarn: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton – 100% mercerized cotton yarn, 186 yds / 3.5 oz / 100 g per skein.
10 yds each of #158R Goldenrod (yellow), #133 Tangerine (orange), and #108G denim (blue) per coaster (40 yds each for a set of 4 coasters). - Hook: Size 7 / 4.5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Intermediate: Working into rounds below.
Size
Approximately 4.5″ diameter.
Gauge
Use pattern as gauge swatch. Each coaster measures approximately 4.5″ in diameter.
Exact gauge is not critical for this project but will affect yarn usage.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet
- rnd = round
- sc = single crochet
- sk = skip
- sl st = slip stitch
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- yo = yarn over
Instructions
When working into rnds below, work over all sts or ch-sps in the previous round so that they are encapsulated within the new st.
Center
Rnd 1: With yellow, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st in first st. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 1, [sc in next st, ch 1] around, join with sl st in first st. (6 sc, 6 ch-1 sps)
In Rnd 3, all sts are worked into sts of Rnd 1, all of which have already been worked into. Place the new Rnd 3 sts in the same spot, working over the Rnd 2 sts.
Rnd 3: Working into sts from Rnd 1: 2 dc in first st, ch 1, [2 dc in next st, ch 1] around, shift first 2 dc of this rnd forward slightly to uncover first st of Rnd 2, sl st in first st of Rnd 2. (12 dc, 6 ch-1 sps)
In Rnd 4, shift the sts of Rnd 3 forward to uncover the sts of Rnd 2.
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in first st of Rnd 2 (same st as join), ch 2, sk next 2 sts of Rnd 3, [3 dc in next st of Rnd 2, ch 2, sk next 2 sts of Rnd 3] around, dc in same st as beginning of rnd, using orange, join with sl st in first st, cut yellow, leaving a tail to weave in later. (18 dc, 6 ch-2 sps)
Middle Ring
Rnd 5: With orange, ch 3 (counts as ch-2 sp), sk next st of Rnd 4, [2 dc in next st of Rnd 3, ch 2] twice, *sk next 3 sts of Rnd 4, [2 dc in next st of Rnd 3, ch 2] twice; repeat from * around to last st of Rnd 3, sk last st of Rnd 3, join with sl st in beginning ch-2 sp. (24 dc, 12 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, 2 dc in first st of Rnd 4 (2nd dc of 3-dc group directly below), ch 2, sk next 2 sts of Rnd 5, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp of Rnd 4, ch 2, sk next 2 sts of Rnd 5, [2 dc in 2nd st of next 3-dc group on Rnd 3, ch 2, sk next 2 sts of Rnd 5, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp of Rnd 4, ch 2, sk next 2 sts of Rnd 5] around, using blue, join with sl st in first st, cut orange, leaving a tail to weave in later. (24 dc, 12 ch-2 sps)
Outer Border
Rnd 7: With blue, ch 1, sc in first 2 sts of Rnd 6, dc in 2 sts of Rnd 5 directly below next ch-2 sp, [sc in next 2 sts of Rnd 6, dc in next 2 sts of Rnd 5] around, join with sl st to first st. (24 sc, 24 dc)
Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
Summer Sunset Crochet Coaster Chart
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I hope you enjoyed this crochet coaster pattern! A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format offsets the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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