Free Crochet Patterns
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Crochet Bag Pattern – Magical Stripes Mini Tote
Self striping yarns are fun on their own, but combining 2 different ones can be magic! This crochet bag pattern uses a helical technique to create seamless stripes. Add a personalized finishing touch with a Diamond Art applique!
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Scrappy Stitchers Stash Bash Crochet Along
This crochet bag is the June pattern for the 2020 Stash Bash Crochet Along. Each month, I will post a new, stash-busting pattern, and a giveaway prize too! See the giveaway details below, and join in the fun on the Scrappy Stitchers Facebook group. Remember to use the hashtag #ScrappyStitchersStashBash in your social media posts!
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
The magic of helical stripes
When you work in continuous rounds, without joining or chaining between rounds, you create a spiral. If you start 2 separate spirals, from opposite ends of the work, they will twist together as you go, creating “jogless” stripes.
The concept sounds complicated, but is actually easy to achieve. After one set up row, it becomes almost automatic and is great TV-time crochet!
My stash yarns
For this scrap yarn pattern, I used 2 different, self striping yarns from my stash.
- Color A: Lion Brand Amazing in Rainforest (yarn discontinued)
- Color B: Universal Yarns Classic Shades in Stravinsky (colorway discontinued)
These are both acrylic/wool blends, and are both spun as “singles”. Most yarns are made up of multiple plies that are twisted together. A single is a yarn that is only one, thick ply. This, plus the wool content, gives both of these yarns a fuzzy “halo”, particularly after washing.
You can use any worsted weight yarn for this pattern, but other yarns may not have the same fuzzy finish to them. If you don’t want the wool content but still want the fuzziness, a good substitution would be Lion Brand Landscapes.
Diamond Art from Leisure Arts
Our prize sponsor for this month’s giveaway is Leisure Arts. A while ago, I got one of their beautiful Diamond Art kits for free at a conference. I finished it, reviewed it, and then tucked it away until the right project came along.
This was that project. I added my Unicorn Diamond Art to my bag as an applique! I experimented with a few different adhesives before settling on one. See what worked, what didn’t, and what I ended up using, in this project post.
Enter the giveaway
Leisure Arts is providing another, beginner Diamond Art kit as a giveaway prize for one lucky winner. Enter the giveaway for a chance to win! The winner can choose their design from the beginner kits available on the Leisure Arts website.
To be eligible, you must be 18 years of age or older, with a valid, US shipping address. The winner will be contacted by email, and must reply to that email and provide their selections and shipping address within 1 week in order to receive the prize. If the winner does not reply within 1 week, a new winner will be selected. The giveaway ends on July 3rd, 2020 (at 11:59pm, central time). Hurry and enter below!
This giveaway is powered by Rafflecopter, and they may ask for some log-in information if you are not already logged in. See the Rafflecopter privacy policy for more information.
a Rafflecopter giveaway
Materials
- Yarn: Self-striping, worsted weight yarn.
- 200 yds color A
- 200 yds color B
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- 3 Stitch Markers
- Optional – Finished Diamond Art project to use as an applique
Project Level
Intermediate: Continuous rounds, alternating between colors, working with multiple strands held together, varying stitch patterns.
Size
12 inches wide x 13 inches tall, not counting strap.
Gauge
13 sts x 13 rounds = 4 inches in sc in continuous rounds.
Use pattern as gauge swatch – bottom should measure approximately 1.5 inches wide x 12 inches long. Exact gauge is not critical for this project.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
ch-sp = chain space
rnd = round
Instructions
Bottom
Holding 1 strand of each color together, ch 4 (foundation chain)
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across.
Rows 2-40: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Fasten off color B only.
Work should now measure approximately 1.5 inches wide x 12 inches long.
Bag is worked in continuous rounds, do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark the first stitch of each round.
When the instructions say to “drop” a color, remove the working loop from your hook and secure it with a stitch marker so it doesn’t pull out.
When the instructions say to “pick up” a color, pick up the free loop that was dropped earlier, and place it back on your hook. Remove the stitch marker.
Bag
Rnd 1 (set-up round): With color A, ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, working in sides of rows, sc in each row to next corner. Drop A.
Working in bottom of foundation chain, join B with sl st in next st, sc in same st and each st across, working in sides of rows, sc in each row to starting corner. Do not join. (86 sts total – 43 in each color).
Each round of the bag will have half the stitches in one color and half the stitches in the other. Note there is a live stitch of each color, on opposite ends of the bag.
From the rest of the bag portion, you should always be working into stitches of the opposite color. Basically, you will work until you hit the live loop of the other color, then switch to that color and continue (except for the adjustment rnd at the end).
Rnd 2: Continuing with color B, sc in next 43 sts. Drop B, pick up A. With A, sc in each remaining st around. (86 sts total – 43 in each color).
Rnd 3: Continuing with color A, sc in next 43 sts. Drop A, pick up B. With B, sc in each remaining st around. (86 sts total – 43 in each color).
Rnds 4-50: Repeat rnds 2-3 23 times, then repeat rnd 2 once more.
The adjustment / partial round is purely to move where the round starts. Each free loop is shifted by 15 stitches, so that they each end up on a side edge of the bag.
Adjustment / partial rnd: Continuing with A, sc in next 15 sts. Drop A, pick up B, sc in next 15 sts.
Border
Rnd 51: Continuing with B, (sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st) 21 times, sc in next st. Drop A, pick up B. With B, (sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st) 21 times, sc in last st. (44 sts, 42 ch-1 sps).
Rnd 52: Continuing with A, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-1 sp) 21 times, ch 1, sk next st. Drop A, pick up B. With B, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-1 sp) 21 times, ch 1, sk next st. (42 sts, 44 ch-1 sps).
Rnd 53: Continuing with B, (sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next st) 21 times, sc in next ch-1 sp. Drop B, pick up A. With A, (sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next st) 21 times, sc in next ch-1 sp, sl st in next st. (44 sts, 42 ch-1 sps).
Drop A, pick up B. With B, sl st in next st, then fasten off B only.
Strap
Join B with sl st in the same st as the last sl st of A. Both loops should now be coming out of the same st. Place both loops on your hook.
Strap is now worked with both yarns held together, in turned rows.
Row 1: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 2 sts. (2 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1 turn, sc2tog. (1 st)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in st. (2 sts)
Rows 4-99: Repeat rows 2-3 49 times more or to desired length.
Fasten off both colors together, leaving a 10 inch tail for sewing.
Finishing
- Use tails to sew strap to opposite end of bag
- Weave in ends
- Add a Diamond Art design to your bag if desired!
Rate this Crochet Bag Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this crochet bag pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Crochet Amigurumi Lion – Noble the Lion Cub
Noble is a little lion cub with a big heart, and he’s ready to steal yours! This easy crochet amigurumi lion pattern has a simple, bottom up construction that’s perfect for new softie makers. Optional, added embroidery lets you personalize your cub with its own unique markings!
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This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Best Friends
Noble is similar in style and design to his friend, Awesome the baby elephant. Make them both!
Poly Fil Premium Fiber Fill
Fairfield World generously sent me lots of Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber Filling for these softie designs. This is my go to stuffing material for all my crochet amigurumi patterns because it’s so soft and squishy and easy to use.
My favorite stuffing tip is to tear the stuffing into small bits and stuff just a little at a time, rather than trying to put a whole handful in all at once. This creates a smoother finish and avoids clumps and lumps.
Red Heart With Love Yarn
Yarnspirations originally sent me this Red Heart With Love yarn for free for a blanket square design. I used most of the leftovers for my Team Colors scarf. The yellow I used for this pattern was the last little bit I had left. With Love is great for amigurumi because it’s soft and strong, with just enough puffiness to fill in the gaps in the stitches.
Materials
- Yarn: Red Heart With Love worsted weight, acrylic yarn. 75 yds #1207 Cornsilk
- Hook: Size H/ 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Fairfield Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber Filling
- Yarn Needle
- Stitch Marker or scrap of yarn to use as running stitch marker.
- 1 yd black embroidery floss
- 1 yd orange, rust, or brown embroidery floss.
Project Level
Easy: Mostly single crochet in the round, with some increases and decreases.
Size
7 inches tall not counting tuft and ears.
Gauge
14 sc x 14 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch – Rounds 1 – 4 should measure 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
dec = decrease (see Special Stitches)
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
ch-sp = chain space
rnd = round
RS = right side
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of next st, then sc in both loops of the same st. See full tutorial here.
Decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Instructions
Body
Except for ears, pattern is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark first stitch of each round.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Inc around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (Inc in next st, sc in next st) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts) around. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 6: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts) around. (30 sc)
Rnds 7-10: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 11: (Dec, sc in each of next 3 sts) around. (24 sts)
Rnds 12-15: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 16: (Dec, sc in each of next 2 sts) around. (18 sts)
Rnds 17-18: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 19: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sts)
Stuff body most of the way full and continue stuffing as you go.
Head
Rnds 20-22: Repeat rnds 3-5
Rnd 23: Sc in next 6 sts, ch 6, sk next 6 sts, sc in last 12 sts. (18 sc and ch-6 sp for muzzle)
Rnd 24: Sc in each st and each ch around. (24 sc)
Rnd 25: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 26: (Dec, sc in next 2 sts) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 27: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sc)
Rnd 28: Dec around. (6 sc)
Fasten off.
Using tails, sew top of head and bottom of body closed, then weave in ends.
Finish stuffing head through muzzle opening.
Muzzle
With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in any st or ch around muzzle opening.
Rnd 1: Work 14 sc evenly spaced around muzzle opening.
This works out to 1 sc in each st, 1 sc in the bottom of each ch, and 1 extra sc in each side, where the stitches and chains meet.
Rnd 2:(Dec, sc in next 5 sts) twice. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 4: Dec around. Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch tail for sewing. (6 sts)
Stuff muzzle.
Use tail to sew muzzle closed.
Sew tail in a circle around the base of rnd 1 of the muzzle, where it meets the head. Pull on the tail to cinch the stitches together just a bit. This will help to define the muzzle and make it stick out more. Weave in end to secure it.
Ear (make 2)
Row 1: Ch 2, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Do not join. (3 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, (hdc, ch-1, dc, ch-1) in next st, (hdc, 2 sc) in last st, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch tail. (7 sts, 2 ch-1 sps).
Finishing:
Sew ears to head using the tails. weave in ends and bring them out through the top of the head, do not trim.
Separate strands of black embroidery floss. With 2 strands, embroider a nose across the muzzle seam, a mouth coming down from the nose, and an eye on each side of the muzzle.
Separate strands of orange, rust, or brown embroidery floss. With 2 strands, make 3 French knots on each side of the muzzle. Bring starting and ending tails out through the top of the head.
Optional: With 1 strand of orange/rust/brown, embroider markings going from the nose, up the muzzle and over the top of the eyes, and additional forehead markings as desired.
Comb through all ends at the top of the head with your needle to separate the strands and make a tuft. Trim to desired size.
Weave in any remaining ends.
Rate this Crochet Amigurumi Lion Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this crochet amigurumi lion pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Crochet Nesting Bowls Scrap Yarn Pattern
Use up some scraps and get organized at the same time! Crochet nesting bowls are a fun way to store small things like keys, change, buttons, or even stitch markers. With 5 bowls in the set, there’s a perfect size for all of it.
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Pot Pourri Bowls
These crochet nesting bowls can make great pot pourri holders too. Line them with plastic wrap or foil first, for easier emptying when you’re done!
Scrappy Stitchers Stash Bash Crochet Along
These crochet nesting bowls are the May pattern for the 2020 Stash Bash Crochet Along. Each month, I will post a new, stash-busting pattern, and a giveaway prize too! See the giveaway details below, and join in the fun on the Scrappy Stitchers Facebook group. Remember to use the hashtag #ScrappyStitchersStashBash in your social media posts!
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Keep it tight
The confetti like appearance of these nesting bowls is created by using 3 strands of yarn together at a time. Three strands of worsted yarn together make the equivalent of a super-thick, jumbo yarn. Using this thick yarn bundle at a tight gauge is what gives the sides of the bowls the strength to stand up straight. If your gauge is looser, your bowls may be floppier. If you do want to use a thinner yarn, be sure to go down in hook size too, so that your stitches are still fairly tight.
My stash yarns
For this scrap yarn pattern, I used a variety of Paintbox Simply Aran yarn from my stash. I got some of it free from Love Crafts for various other designs, and some I purchased myself. This is one of my go-to, medium weight, acrylic yarns because it’s soft and easy to work with, and it comes in a wide variety of colors.
The colors I used are #234 Kingfisher Blue, #236 Dolphin Blue, #224 Pistachio Green, #229 Grass Green, #243 Raspberry Pink, #241 Dusty Rose, and #219 Blood Orange.
Color Progression
To make these colorful nesting bowls blend together, I changed out one color at a time between bowls. I went in order down the list above, removing the first color and adding the next color each time. From smallest to largest, the colors I used are:
- Bowl 1: Kingfisher Blue, Dolphin Blue, Pistachio Green
- Bowl 2: Dolphin Blue, Pistachio Green, Grass Green
- Bowl 3: Pistachio Green, Grass Green, Raspberry Pink
- Bowl 4: Grass Green, Raspberry Pink, Dusty Rose
- Bowl 5: Raspberry Pink, Dusty Rose, Blood Orange
Fun Notions from Global Backyard Industries
Our prize sponsor for this month’s giveaway is Global Backyard Industries. This is a small business that is always a joy to work with! You may remember their beautiful, hand dyed sock yarn and matching zippered pouch from my Walking on Clouds pattern.
For this scrap yarn pattern, they sent me some sewing / yarn themed stitch markers, and an adorable rainbow pin for free. The pin has already joined the rest of my pin collection, and the smallest of these crochet nesting bowls is the perfect place to store the stitch markers!
Enter the giveaway
Global Backyard Industries is providing the same set of stitch markers / progress keepers and pin as a giveaway prize for one lucky winner. Enter the giveaway for a chance to win these adorable notions!
To be eligible, you must be 18 years of age or older, with a valid, US shipping address. The winner will be contacted by email, and must reply to that email and provide their selections and shipping address within 1 week in order to receive the prize. If the winner does not reply within 1 week, a new winner will be selected. The giveaway ends on June 5th, 2020 (at 11:59pm, central time). Hurry and enter below!
This giveaway is powered by Rafflecopter, and they may ask for some log-in information if you are not already logged in. See the Rafflecopter privacy policy for more information.
a Rafflecopter giveawayMaterials
- Yarn: 370 yds (total) worsted weight yarn in multiple colors.
- Bowl 1: 30 yds
- Bowl 2: 45 yds
- Bowl 3: 70 yds
- Bowl 4: 100 yds
- Bowl 5: 125 yds
- Hook: Size K / 6.5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Stitch Marker
Project Level
Easy: Continuous rounds with multiple strands held together.
Size
d = diameter in inches, h = height in inches.
- Bowl 1: 2.5 d x 1.1 h
- Bowl 2: 3.25 d x 1.5 h
- Bowl 3: 4 d x 1.9 h
- Bowl 4: 4.75 d x 2.25 h
- Bowl 5: 5.5 d x 2.75 h
Gauge
Use pattern as gauge swatch – bottom of bowl 1 should measure approximately 2.5 inches in diameter.
Exact gauge is not critical for this project. Stitches should be tight enough for the bowls to stand up on their own without support.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
blo = back loop only
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
rnd = round
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of next st, then sc in both loops of the same st. See Recommended Resources for full tutorial.
Instructions
Entire pattern is worked in continuous rounds, on the right side of the fabric, with 3 strands of yarn held together. Do not join rounds or turn your work unless specified. Mark the first stitch of each round.
Bowl 1 Bottom
Rnd 1: With 3 strands of yarn held together, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) around (18 sc)
Work should now measure approximately 2.5 inches in diameter.
Bowl 1 Sides
Rnds 4-6: Sc in blo of each st around. (18 sc)
Sl st in blo of next st, fasten off.
Bowl 2 Bottom
Rnds 1-3: Work as for Bowl 1 bottom.
Rnd 4: (Inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around. (24 sc)
Bowl 2 Sides
Rnds 5-8: Sc in blo of each st around. (24 sc)
Sl st in blo of next st, fasten off.
Bowl 3 Bottom
Rnds 1-3: Work as for Bowl 2 bottom.
Rnd 5: (Sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st) around. (30 sc)
Bowl 3 Sides
Rnds 6-10: Sc in blo of each st around. (30 sc)
Sl st in blo of next st, fasten off.
Bowl 4 Bottom
Rnds 1-5: Work as for Bowl 3 bottom.
Rnd 6: Sc in next 2 sts, (inc in next st, sc in next 4 sts) 5 times, inc in next st, sc in last 2 sts. (36 sc)
Bowl 4 Sides
Rnds 7-12: Sc in blo of each st around. (36 sc)
Sl st in blo of next st, fasten off.
Bowl 5 Bottom
Rnds 1-6: Work as for Bowl 1 bottom.
Rnd 7: (Inc in next st, sc in next 5 sts) around. (42 sc)
Bowl 5 Sides
Rnds 8-14: Sc in blo of each st around. (42 sc)
Sl st in blo of next st, fasten off.
Finishing
For each tail, separate the three strands and weave each strand in individually.
Fill your bowls and enjoy!
Rate this Crochet Nesting Bowls Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this scrappy crochet pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
12 inch Crochet Square – Twists and Turns
Forwards, backwards, and round and round – work around this 12 inch crochet square in all different directions! The bold color blocking and rich texture are an eye catching addition to any decor. With lots of twists and turns in the pattern, it’s fun to make too!
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This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Moogly 2020 Afghan CAL
This pattern was designed for the Moogly 2020 afghan CAL. If this is the first you’ve heard about it, go check it out! Also be sure to take a look at the block 10 post to see how Moogly’s version of this square turned out.
Red Heart With Love Yarn
Yarnspirations was kind enough to send me the Red Heart With Love yarn for free for this design. I chose bright, tropical colors because I feel like I could use a tropical vacation right now, don’t you? I love how soft this yarn is to work with, and the bright colors don’t bleed or fade when I wash them!
From Corner to Corner
The inside portion of this square is worked from corner to corner. Most often, when people say “corner to corner” or “c2c”, they are talking about diagonal box stitch. But there are a surprising array of stitches that can be worked from corner to corner. This particular c2c design uses double crochet and crab stitch to create the ridged texture.
Stitch Markers Can Help!
For the center portion of the square, it can sometimes be difficult to find the front and back loops of the first and last stitch. Emily R. came up with a great solution! After every double crochet row, place a stitch marker in the back loop of the first stitch and of the last stitch. That makes the front loops much easier to find for the next row!
Materials
- Yarn: Red Heart With Love worsted weight, acrylic yarn. 150 yds each of:
- #1701 Hot Pink (pink)
- #1803 Blue Hawaii (blue)
- #140 Pewter (grey)
- Hook: Size J / 6 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Stitch Marker
Project Level
Intermediate: Crossed stitches, reverse single crochet, increases, decreases, and working in different directions.
Size
12 inches square.
Gauge
12 dc x 8 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch – Rows 1 – 10 should measure 4 inches on each short edge.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
rsc = reverse single crochet (see Special Stitches)
flo = front loop(s) only
blo = back loop(s) only
dc(*)tog = double crochet decreases (see Special Stitches)
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
ch sp = chain space
rnd = round
WS = wrong side
RS = right side
Special Stitches
Double crochet decreases (Dc(*)tog): This is a decrease where you work the next * number of stitches together. This could be a dc2tog, dc3tog, or dc4tog.
(Yarn over, insert hook into next st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook) the indicated number of times (2, 3, or 4), yarn over and pull through all (3, 4, or 5) loops on hook.
Reverse Single Crochet / Crab Stitch (rsc): Working from left to right, sc in each indicated stitch. Working in this direction causes the stitches to twist, creating a rope-like design. See a full tutorial here.
Recommended Resources
- Chainless Starting Double Crochet (csdc) from Moogly
- Working in front loop only or back loop only
- Crab Stitch / Reverse Single Crochet
- Working into the back bump
- Almost invisible increase
- Double Crochet 3 Together (dc3tog)
- Mattress Stitch Seaming from Moogly
- Working Evenly Across / Around
Instructions
Pink Triangle
Ch 3 at the start of a row counts as a dc throughout, including the first 3 chs on row 1. If you know / prefer the Chainless Starting Double Crochet (csdc) you can use that instead. This entire section is worked on the right side, do not turn your work.
Row 1: Ch 4, 4 dc in 4th ch from hook. (5 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, rsc in flo of each st across. (5 sts)
Row 3: Working into the unused back loops from the previous (dc) row, sl st in blo of first st, ch 3, 2 dc in blo of same st, dc in blo of each st across to last st, 3 dc in blo of last st. (9 sts)
Rows 4-19: Rep rows 2-3 8 times more, fasten off pink. (41 sts)
With RS facing, join grey with sl st in flo of last st from row 19.
Row 20: Rep row 2.
Blue Triangle
Ch 2 at the start of a row does not count as a st. This entire section is worked on the right side, do not turn your work.
With RS facing, join blue with sl st in unused blo of first st from row 19.
Row 21: Working into the unused back loops from the previous (dc) row, ch 2, sk first st, dc2tog in blo, dc in blo of each st across to last 3 sts, dc3tog in blo. (37 sts)
Row 22: Rep row 2.
Row 23: Working into the unused back loops from the previous (dc) row, sl st in blo of first st, ch 2, dc2tog in blo, dc in blo of each st across to last 3 sts, dc3tog in blo. (33 sts)
Rows 24-38: Rep rows 22-23 8 times more, then repeat row 22 once more. (5 sts)
Row 39: Working into the unused back loops from the previous (dc) row, ch 2, sk first st, dc4tog in blo, fasten off blue. (1 st)
Pink & Blue Edging:
With RS facing, join blue with sl st at base of first st from Row 21.
Blue sides: Working in sides of blue rows only, ch 1, sc in corner, (2 sc in each dc row, sk each rsc row) across to corner, (sc, ch 1, sc) in corner, (2 sc, in each dc row, sk each rsc row) across to next corner, sc in next corner, ch 1 changing to pink, fasten off blue. (44 sc, 2 ch-1 sps)
Pink sides: Working in sides of pink rows only, ch 1, sc in corner, (2 sc in each dc row, sk each rsc row) across to corner, (sc, ch 1, sc) in corner, (2 sc, in each dc row, sk each rsc row) across to next corner, sc in next corner, ch 1, join with sl st to first st of round, fasten off pink. (44 sc, 2 ch-1 sps)
Your square should now measure approximately 9 inches across. If it is slightly too big, scroll down and try the alternate, narrow border instead. If it is too small, you can add extra edging rounds at the end.
Border:
Pick up working loop of grey yarn and place it back on hook. Ch 1, sl st into nearest corner ch-1 sp of edging.
Border is worked in rows, perpendicular to the main portion of the square. It is connected to the pink and blue edging with slip stitches as you go, and then sewn closed at the end. You will now be turning your work with each row. Rows 1, 21, 41, and 61 create the 4 corners of the square.
Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a dc.
Ch 6
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (5 sc)
Row 2: Sl st in starting ch-1 sp on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, dc in next st, tr in last st. (1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr)
Row 3: Ch 3, turn, sk next 2 sts, tr in each of the next 2 sts, tr in each of the 2 skipped sts. (1 dc, 4 tr cross)
Row 4: Sl st in starting ch-1 sp on edging, sl st in blo of next st on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sc)
Row 5: Ch 3, turn, sk next 2 sts, tr in each of the next 2 sts, tr in each of the 2 skipped sts. (1 dc, 4 tr cross)
Row 6: Sk next st on edging, sl st in blo of each of next 2 sts on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sc)
Rows 7-19: Repeat rows 5-6 6 times, then repeat row 5 once more.
Row 20: Sl st in next ch-1 sp on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, dc in next st, tr in last st. (1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr)
Row 21: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sc)
Row 22: Sl st in same ch-1 sp on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, dc in next st, tr in last st. (1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr)
Row 23-80: Rep rows 3-22 twice more, then repeat rows 3-20 once more. Join with sl st into bottom of first sc of row 1 (outside corner). Do not fasten off.
Grey edging:
Working into sides of rows around border, ch 1, (3 sc in corner, work 32 sc evenly spaced to next corner) 4 times, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off, leaving an 8 inch tail for sewing.
If you need to add extra edging rounds, sc across to each corner stitch, and work 3 sc in each corner.
Finishing
Using long grey tail, sew the border closed with a mattress stitch, joining the top of row 80 to the bottom of row 1.
Weave in all ends.
Alternate, Narrower Border
If your center square is a bit too big, try this border INSTEAD of the one above.
Pick up working loop of grey yarn and place it back on hook. Ch 1, sl st into nearest corner ch-1 sp of edging.
Border is worked in rows, perpendicular to the main portion of the square. It is connected to the pink and blue edging with slip stitches as you go and then sewn closed at the end. You will now be turning your work with each row. Rows 1, 21, 41, and 61 create the 4 corners of the square.
Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a dc.
Ch 4
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (3 sc)
Row 2: Sl st in starting ch-1 sp on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st. (1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc)
Row 3: Ch 3, turn, sk next st, tr in next st, tr in skipped st. (1 dc, 2 tr cross)
Row 4: Sl st in starting ch-1 sp on edging, sl st in blo of next st on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sc)
Row 5: Ch 3, turn, sk next st, tr in next st, tr in skipped st.. (1 dc, 2 tr cross)
Row 6: Sk next st on edging, sl st in blo of each of next 2 sts on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sc)
Rows 7-19: Repeat rows 5-6 6 times, then repeat row 5 once more.
Row 20: Sl st in next ch-1 sp on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st. (1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc)
Row 21: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sc)
Row 22: Sl st in same ch-1 sp on edging, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st. (1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc)
Row 23-80: Rep rows 3-22 twice more, then repeat rows 3-20 once more. Join with sl st into bottom of first sc of row 1 (outside corner). Do not fasten off.
Continue with grey edging and finishing as above.
Rate this 12 Inch Crochet Square Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this 12 inch crochet square pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Crochet Summer Top – Starstruck
This sleeveless, crochet summer top is sure to become a wardrobe staple. Pair it with your favorite shorts or jeans for a breezy, casual look, or layer it over a tank for the office! Solid stitching conceals where needed, and open lace makes the rest of the top breezy and light.
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Over the Top Construction
I almost called this the “Over the Top Top” because of the unique construction. It starts at the bottom front edge, then works up, over the shoulder, and back down the the back!
Yarn choice
This pattern was originally published elsewhere. At the time, I had used Lion Brand Vanna’s Style yarn, but that has since been discontinued. Lion Brand Touch of Merino would be a good substitution, and I love the color options!
Vanna’s Style is 100% acrylic. Substituting another DK yarn that is all or mostly acrylic will give you the closest look and feel. I would avoid bamboo or cotton as those fibers might sag more.
Check your Gauge
When making any garments, gauge is important for a good fit. Be sure to wash and block your gauge swatch in the same way that you plan to wash the finished garment. This way any stretching, sagging, or shrinking can be taken into account. Check out this post for more tips All About Gauge!
Materials
- Yarn: 700 [760, 825, 925, 1000] yds DK weight, acrylic yarn.
- Hook: Size H/ 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- 2 Stitch Markers
Project Level
Intermediate: Repeating pattern with special stitches. Some simple shaping.
Size
Pattern is written in size S, with changes for M, L, XL, and 2X in [ ]. The sample is shown in size S.
Finished Bust Size 37 [41, 45, 49, 53] inches to fit bust 34 [38, 42, 46, 50] inches.
Gauge
16 dc x 8.75 rows = 4 inches after blocking. Gauge is important for a good fit, be sure to check your gauge.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
dec = decrease (see Special Stitches)
mod sc = modified single crochet (see Special Stitches)
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
yo = yarn over
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of next st, then sc in both loops of the same st. See full tutorial here.
Decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Modified Single Crochet (mod sc): Ch 3, insert hook under all three ch sps from the three previous rows, yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through both loops on hook, ch 3.
Instructions
Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a dc throughout.
Front
Bottom Pattern section
Ch 99 [111, 121, 133, 145].
Row 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook and in next 2 [2, 1, 1, 1] chs, (ch 5, sk next 7 chs, dc in next 5 chs) 7 [8, 9, 10, 11] times, ch 5, sk next 7 chs, dc in last 3 [3, 2, 2, 2] chs. (41 [46, 49, 54, 59] dc, 8 [9, 10, 11, 12] ch-5 sps)
Row 2: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [2, 1, 1, 1] dc, (ch 5, sk next ch-5 sp, dc in next 5 dc) across to last ch-5 sp, ch 5, sk last ch-5 sp, dc in last 3 [3, 2, 2, 2] dc. (41 [46, 49, 54, 59] dc, 8 [9, 10, 11, 12] ch-5 sps)
Row 3: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [2, 1, 1, 1] dc, (mod sc, dc in next 5 dc) across to last ch-5 sp, mod sc, dc in last 3 [3, 2, 2, 2] dc. (41 [46, 49, 54, 59] dc, 8 [9, 10, 11, 12] mod sc)
Row 4: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [2, 1, 1, 1] dc, (ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc in next 5 dc) 7 [8, 9, 10, 11] times, ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc in last 3 [3, 2, 2, 2] dc. (41 [46, 49, 54, 59] dc, 8 [9, 10, 11, 12] ch-7 sps)
Row 5: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [2, 1, 1, 1] dc, (ch 5, sk next ch-7 sp, dc in next 5 dc) across to last ch-7 sp, ch 5, sk last ch-7 sp, dc in last 3 [3, 2, 2, 2] dc. (41 [46, 49, 54, 59] dc, 8 [9, 10, 11, 12] ch-5 sps)
Rows 6-35: Repeat rows 2-5 seven times, then repeat rows 2-3 once more.
Row 36: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [2, 1, 1, 1] dc, (ch 5, sk next mod sc, dc in next 5 dc) 7 [8, 9, 10, 11] times, ch 5, sk next mod sc, dc in last 3 [3, 2, 2, 2] dc. (41 [46, 49, 54, 59] dc, 8 [9, 10, 11, 12] ch-5 sps)
Bust
Row 37: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 [3, 2, 2, 2] dc, (3 sc in next ch-5 sp, sc in next 5 dc) across to last ch-5 sp, 3 sc in last ch-5 sp, sc in last 3 [3, 2, 2, 2] dc. (65 [73, 79, 87, 95] sc)
Row 38: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 39: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 12 [15, 18, 20, 23] sts, inc, sc in next 7 [7, 7, 8, 9 ] sts, inc, sc in next 23 [25, 25, 27, 27] sts, inc, sc in next 7 [7, 7, 8, 9] sts, inc, sc in last 12 [15, 18, 20, 23] sts. (69 [77, 83, 91, 99] sc).
Row 40: Repeat row 38.
Row 41: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 13 [16, 19, 21, 24] sts, inc, sc in next 8 [8, 8, 9, 10 ] sts, inc, sc in next 23 [25, 25, 27, 27] sts, inc, sc in next 8 [8, 8, 9, 10] sts, inc, sc in last 13 [16, 19, 21, 24] sts. (73 [81, 87, 95, 103] sc).
Row 42: Repeat row 38.
Size L, XL & 2X only:
Row 43: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 20 [22, 25] sts, inc, sc in next 8 [ 9, 10] sts, inc, sc in next 27 [29, 29] sts, inc, sc in next 8 [9, 10] sts, inc, sc in last 20 [22, 25] sts. (91 [99, 107] sc).
Row 44: Repeat row 38.
Size S, & M only:
Row 43 [43]: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 19 [22, 32] sts, inc, sc in next 33 [35, 41] sts, inc, sc in last 19 [22, 32] sts. (75 [83] sc).
All Sizes:
Rows 44-50 [44-50, 45-50, 45-50, 45-50]: Repeat row 38
Armhole
Row 51: Turn, sl st in first 4 [5, 6, 7, 8] sts, sc in next 66 [72, 78, 84, 90] sts, sc2tog, leaving remaining 3 [4, 5, 6, 7] sts unworked. (67 [73, 79, 85, 91] sts)
Row 52: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (65 [71, 77, 83, 89] sts)
Row 53 [53-54, 53-54, 53-55, 53-56]: Repeat row 52. (63 [67, 73, 77, 81] sts)
Row 54 [55, 55, 56, 57]: Repeat row 38
Rows 55-56 [56-57, 56-57, 57-58, 58-59]: Repeat last 2 rows. (61 [65, 71, 75, 79] sts)
Row 57 [58-59, 58-61, 59-65, 60-67]: Repeat row 38.
Top pattern section
Row 58 [60, 62, 66, 68]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [4, 2, 4, 1] sts, ch 7, sk next 5 sts, (dc in next 5 sts, ch 7, sk next 5 sts) 5 [5, 6, 6, 7] times, dc in last 3 [5, 3, 5, 2] sts. (31 [35, 36, 40, 39] dc, 6 [6, 7, 7, 8] ch-7 sps)
Rows 59-60 [61-62, 63-64, 67-68, 69-70]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [4, 2, 4, 1] dc, (ch 5, sk next ch sp, dc in next 5 dc) across to last ch sp, ch 5, sk last ch sp, dc in last 3 [5, 3, 5, 2] dc. (31 [35, 36, 40, 39] dc, 6 [6, 7, 7, 8] ch-5 sps)
Row 61 [63, 65, 69, 71]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [4, 2, 4, 1] dc, (mod sc, dc in next 5 dc) across to last ch sp, mod sc, dc in last 3 [5, 3, 5, 2] dc. (31 [35, 36, 40, 39] dc, 6 [6, 7, 7, 8] mod sc)
Row 62 [64, 66, 70, 72]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [4, 2, 4, 1] dc, (ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc in next 5 dc) 5 [5, 6, 6, 7] times, ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc in last 3 [5, 3, 5, 2] dc. (31 [35, 36, 40, 39] dc, 6 [6, 7, 7, 8] ch-7 sps)
Rows 63-65 [65-67, 67-69, 71-73, 73-75]: Repeat rows 59-61 [61-63, 63-65, 67-69, 69-71].
Right Shoulder
Sizes S, M, 2X only:
Row 66 [68, 76]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [4, 1] dc, (ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc in next 5 dc) 1 [1, 2] times, ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc in next 3 [3, 2] dc, leaving remaining sts unworked. (11 [13, 14] dc, 2 [2, 3] ch-7 sps)
Marker placement: Sk next 2 [2, 3] dc, sk next ch sp, sk next 5 dc, sk next ch sp, sk next 2 [2, 3] dc, place marker in next st.
Sizes L & XL only:
Row 70 [74]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [4] dc, ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc in next 5 dc, ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc in next 5 dc, leaving remaining sts unworked. (13 [15] dc, 2 ch-7 sps)
Marker placement: (Sk next ch sp, sk next 5 dc) twice, sk next ch sp, place marker in next st.
All sizes:
Rows 67-68 [69-70, 71-72, 75-76, 77-78]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st, and in each st across to first ch sp, (ch 5, sk next ch sp, dc in next 5 dc) across to last ch sp, ch 5, sk last ch sp, dc each remaining dc. (11 [13, 13, 15, 14] dc, 2 [2, 2, 2, 3] ch-5 sps)
Row 69 [71, 73, 77, 79]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [2, 4, 4, 1] dc, (mod sc, dc in next 5 dc) 1 [1, 1, 1, 2] times, mod sc, dc each remaining dc. (11 [13, 13, 15, 14] dc, 2 [2, 2, 2, 3] mod sc)
Row 70 [72, 74, 78, 80]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [4, 2, 4, 1] dc, (ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc in next 5 dc) 1 [1, 1, 1, 2] times, ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc each remaining dc. (11 [13, 13, 15, 14] dc, 2 [2, 2, 2, 3] ch-5 sps)
Rows 71-73 [73-75, 75-77, 79-81, 81-83]: Repeat rows 67-69 [69-71, 71-73, 75-77, 77-79]. Do not fasten off. Remove hook and secure working loop with a stitch marker.
Left Shoulder
With WS facing, and using a separate ball of yarn, join with sl st in marked st.
Size S, M, 2X only:
Row 66 [68, 76]: Ch 3, dc in next 2 [2, 1] dc, (ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc in next 5 dc) 1 [1, 2] times, ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc in last 3 [5, 2] dc. (11 [13, 14] dc, 2 [2, 3] ch-7 sps)
Sizes L & XL only:
Row 70 [74]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 4 dc, ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc in next 5 dc, ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc in last 2 [4] dc. (13 [15] dc, 2 ch-7 sps)
All sizes:
Rows 67-68 [69-70, 71-72, 75-76, 77-78]: Repeat as for right shoulder.
Row 69 [71, 73, 77, 79]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [4, 2, 4, 1] dc, (mod sc, dc in next 5 dc) 1 [1, 1, 1, 2] times, mod sc, dc each remaining dc. (11 [13, 13, 15, 14] dc, 2 [2, 2, 2, 3] mod sc)
Row 70 [72, 74, 78, 80]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st, and in each st across to first ch sp, (ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc in next 5 dc) 1 [1, 1, 1, 2] times, ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc each remaining dc. (11 [13, 13, 15, 14] dc, 2 [2, 2, 2, 3] ch-5 sps)
Rows 71-73 [73-75, 75-77, 79-81, 81-83]: Repeat rows 67-69 [69-71, 71-73, 75-77, 77-79]. Fasten off.
Back:
Top Pattern Section
Pick up working loop from right shoulder.
Row 74 [76, 78, 82, 84]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [4, 2, 4, 1] dc, *(ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc in next 5 dc) 1 [1, 1, 1, 2] times, ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc in each remaining dc,** ch 23 [23, 31, 31, 25], working across left shoulder, dc in next 3 [3, 5, 5, 2] dc, repeat from * to **. (22 [26, 26, 30, 28] dc, 4 [4, 4, 4, 6] ch-7 sps)
Size S, M, 2X only:
Row 75 [77, 85]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [4, 1] dc *(ch 5, sk next ch-7 sp, dc in next 5 dc) 1 [1, 2] times, ch 5, sk next ch-7 sp,** dc in next 3 [3, 2] dc, dc in next 2 [2, 3] chs, ch 5, sk next 7 chs, dc in next 5 chs, ch 5, sk next 7 chs, dc in next 2 [2, 3] chs, dc in next 3 [3, 2] sts, repeat from * to **, dc in last 3 [5, 2] sts. (31 [35, 39] dc, 6 [6, 8] ch-5 sps)
Sizes L & XL only:
Row 79 [83]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [4] dc (ch 5, sk next ch-7 sp, dc in next 5 dc) twice, (ch 5, sk next 7 chs, dc in next 5 chs) twice, ch 5, sk next 7 chs, (dc in next 5 dc, ch 5, sk next ch-7 sp) twice, dc in last 3 [5] dc. (36 [40] dc, 7 ch-5 sps)
All Sizes:
Rows 76-78 [78-80, 80-82, 84-86, 86-88]: Repeat rows 60-62 [62-64, 64-66, 68-70, 70-72].
Rows 79-82 [81-84, 83-86, 87-90, 91-94]: Repeat rows 59-62 [61-64, 63-66, 67-70, 69-72].
Rows 83-85 [85-87, 87-89, 91-93, 95-97] Repeat rows 59-61 [61-63, 63-65, 67-69, 69-71].
Row 86 [88, 90, 94, 98]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [4, 2, 4, 1] dc, (ch 5, sk next mod sc, dc in next 5 dc) 5 [5, 6, 6, 7] times, ch 5, sk next mod sc, dc in last 3 [5, 3, 5, 2] dc. (31 [35, 36, 40, 39] dc, 6 [6, 7, 7, 8] ch-5 sps)
Armhole
Row 87 [89, 91, 95, 99]: Ch 1, turn, sc in each dc and 5 sc in each ch-5 sp across. (61 [65, 71, 75, 79] sc.
Row 88-89 [90-92, 92-96, 96-103, 100-108]: Repeat row 38
Row 90 [93-94, 97-98, 104-106, 109-112]: Ch 1, turn, sc in first sc, inc, sc across to last 2 sts, inc, sc in last st. (63 [69, 75, 81, 87] sts)
Row 91 [95, 99, 107, 113]: Ch 1, turn, sc in first sc, inc, sc across to last 2 sts, inc, sc in last st, ch 4 [5, 6, 7, 8]. (65 [71, 77, 83, 89] sts, not counting chs.)
Row 92 [96, 100, 108, 114]: Turn, sl st in first 3 [4, 5, 6, 7] chs, sk next ch, sc in next sc, inc, sc across to last 2 sts, inc, sc in last st, ch 3 [4, 5, 6, 7]. (67 [73, 79, 85, 91] sts, not counting chs.)
Row 93 [97, 101, 109, 115]: Ch 1, turn, sc in each ch and in each st across. (73 [81, 89, 97, 105] sts).
Bust
Rows 94-103 [98-107, 102-110, 110-118, 116-124]: Repeat row 38
Rows 104-107 [108-111, 111-115, 119-123, 125-129]: Ch 1, turn, sc in first sc, sc2tog, sc in each st across to last 3 sts, sc2tog. (65 [73, 79, 87, 95] sts).
Bottom Pattern Section
Row 108 [112, 116, 124, 130]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [2, 1, 1, 1] sts, ch 7, sk next 3 sts, (dc in next 5 sts, ch 7, sk next 3 sts) 7 [8, 9, 10, 11] times, dc in last 3 [3, 2, 2, 2] sts. (41 [46, 49, 54, 59] dc, 8 [9, 10, 11, 12] ch-7 sps)
Rows 109-110 [113-114, 117-118, 125-126, 131-132]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [2, 1, 1, 1] dc, (ch 5, sk next ch sp, dc in next 5 dc) across to last ch sp, ch 5, sk last ch sp, dc in last 3 [3, 2, 2, 2] dc. (41 [46, 49, 54, 59] dc, 8 [9, 10, 11, 12] ch-5 sps)
Row 111 [115, 119, 127, 133]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [2, 1, 1, 1] dc, (mod sc, dc in next 5 dc) across to last ch sp, ch 3, mod sc, dc in last 3 [3, 2, 2, 2] dc. (41 [46, 49, 54, 59] dc, 8 [9, 10, 11, 12] mod sc)
Row 112 [116, 120, 128, 134]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 2 [2, 1, 1, 1] dc, (ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc in next 5 dc) 7 [8, 9, 10, 11] times, ch 7, sk next mod sc, dc in last 3 [3, 2, 2, 2] dc. (41 [46, 49, 54, 59] dc, 8 [9, 10, 11, 12] ch-7 sps)
Rows 113-140 [117-144, 121-148, 129-156, 134-162]: Repeat last 4 rows 7 times
Rows 141-143 [145-147, 149-151, 157-159, 163-165]: Repeat rows 109-111 [113-115, 117-119, 125-127, 131-133]. Fasten off.
Seaming:
Fold tunic in half with right sides together. Sew side seams from armhole to hem.
Sleeve Edging:
With RS facing, join yarn with sl st at the seam at the bottom of armhole. Work 65 [68, 71, 76, 79] sc evenly spaced around armhole, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off. Repeat for the other armhole.
Finishing:
Remove marker and weave in all ends.
Wash and block.
Rate this Crochet Summer Top Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this crochet summer top pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Crochet Amigurumi Pattern – Awesome the Baby Elephant
Awesome the baby elephant may be small, but he is big on cuteness! This easy crochet amigurumi pattern is perfect for first time softie makers. With it’s small size and simple construction, you can make an army of awesome baby elephants in no time!
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CAL Central Softie CAL
This pattern was designed for the Softie CAL at CAL Central Crochet. Follow along on the CAL Central Crochet Facebook group for more crochet amigurumi patterns. Share your CAL pictures (we love to see all the projects) and don’t forget to enter the giveaway!
Why Awesome?
When we first signed up as designers for the Softie CAL, there was a spot to say what design we would be making. I hadn’t decided yet, so I just wrote in “something awesome.” The next designer on the list after me wrote “something even more awesome” so I can’t wait to see what she makes!
Poly Fil Premium Fiber Fill
Fairfield World has generously provided Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber Filling to each designer participating in the Softie CAL. This is my go to stuffing material for all my crochet amigurumi patterns. It’s soft and squishy and easy to use.
My favorite stuffing tip is to tear the stuffing into small bits and stuff just a little at a time, rather than trying to put a whole handful in all at once. This creates a smoother finish and avoids clumps and lumps.
Red Heart With Love Yarn
Yarnspirations sent me this Red Heart With Love yarn for free for another design. I had plenty of grey left over that was just begging to become an awesome crochet amigurumi elephant pattern! With Love is great for amigurumi because it’s soft and strong, with just enough puffiness to fill in the gaps in the stitches.
Materials
- Yarn: Red Heart With Love worsted weight, acrylic yarn. 75 yds #140 Pewter (grey)
- Hook: Size H/ 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Fairfield Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber Filling
- Yarn Needle
- Stitch Marker or scrap of yarn to use as running stitch marker.
- Small amount of black crochet thread or embroidery floss
Project Level
Easy: Mostly single crochet in the round, with some increases and decreases.
Size
7 inches tall not counting trunk and ears.
Gauge
14 sc x 14 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch – Rounds 1 – 4 should measure 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
dec = decrease (see Special Stitches)
rsc = reverse single crochet (see Special Stitches)
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
rnd = round
RS = right side
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of next st, then sc in both loops of the same st. See full tutorial here.
Decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Reverse Single Crochet / Crab Stitch (rsc): Working from left to right, sc in each indicated stitch. Working in this direction causes the stitches to twist, creating a rope-like design. See a full tutorial here.
Instructions
Body
Except for ears, pattern is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark first stitch of each round.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: inc around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: (inc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts) around. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 6: (Inc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts) around. (30 sc)
Rnds 7-10: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 11: (Dec, sc in each of next 3 sts) around. (24 sts)
Rnds 12-15: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 16: (Dec, sc in each of next 2 sts) around. (18 sts)
Rnds 17-18: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 19: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sts)
Stuff body most of the way full and continue stuffing as you go.
Head
Rnds 20-22: Repeat rnds 3-5
Rnd 23: Sc in next 6 sts, ch 6, sk next 6 sts, sc in last 12 sts. (18 sc and ch-6 sp for trunk)
Rnd 24: Sc in each st and each ch around. (24 sc)
Rnd 25: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 26: (Dec, sc in next 2 sts) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 27: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sc)
Rnd 28: Dec around. (6 sc)
Fasten off.
Using tails, sew top of head and bottom of body closed, then weave in ends.
Finish stuffing head through trunk opening.
Trunk
With RS facing, join grey with sl st in any st or ch around trunk opening.
Rnd 1: Work 14 sc evenly spaced around trunk opening.
This works out to 1 sc in each st, 1 sc in the bottom of each ch, and 1 extra sc in each side, where the stitches and chains meet.
Rnd 2: (Dec, sc in next 5 sts) twice. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in next 3 sts, dec, sc in next 4 sts, dec, sc in last st. (10 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in next st, dec, sc in next 3 sts, dec, sc in last 2 sts. (8 sts)
Rnd 5: (Dec, sc in next 2 sts) twice. (6 sts)
Rnds 6-15: Sc in each st around.
Fasten off leaving an 8 inch tail
Stuff trunk moderately, leaving enough room for it to curl up.
If needed, you can use the back of your hook, a knitting needle, a chopstick, or other similar tool to push the stuffing into the trunk.
Sew tail in a straight line across top of trunk, from tip to where the trunk meets the head. Then sew it up and out through the top of the head. Pull on this tail gently to make the trunk curl up, then weave it in to secure it.
Ears
Ears are worked back and forth in rows. Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a dc.
Right Ear:
Row 1: Ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (4 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in each of first 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st, 3 dc in last st. (9 sts)
Row 3: Ch 3, turn, 4 dc in first st, 2 hdc in next st, 2 sc in each of remaining 7 sts. (21 sts).
Row 4: Ch 1, do not turn, rsc in each st across, 2 rsc in side of last row, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. (23 rsc)
Left Ear:
Row 1: Ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (4 sc)
Row 2: Ch 3, turn, 2 dc in first st, 2 hdc in next st, 2 sc in each of last 2 sts. (9 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in each of the first 7 sts, 2 hdc in next st, (4 hdc, ch 3, sl st) in last st. (20 sts, 3 chs)
Row 4: Ch 1, do not turn, rsc in each of the 3 chs, rsc in each st across, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. (23 rsc)
Finishing:
Sew ears to head using the long tails and allowing the ear to ruffle naturally. Sew through only the portions that do not have an rsc edging.
With black thread, embroider eyes on each side of the trunk and a mouth under the trunk.
Rate this Crochet Amigurumi Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this crochet amigurumi elephant pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Crochet Doll – Masked Superhero
These days it’s clear that many of our real life superheroes wear a different type of mask. Do you know a doctor, nurse, paramedic, or other medical professional who is a real life hero? Make this crochet doll for them, complete with scrubs, and a removable mask and cap!
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Support Covid Relief Efforts
You can help support Covid-19 relief efforts by purchasing this pattern on Ravelry. For all sales of this pattern from my Ravelry store in 2020, I will donate 80% of the sale price to a charity supporting Covid relief. As of now, it will go to the United Way Covid-19 Community Response and Recovery Fund. If that changes later in the year, I will update it here.
Scrappy Stitchers Stash Bash Crochet Along
This crochet doll is the April pattern for the 2020 Stash Bash Crochet Along. Each month, I will post a new, stash-busting pattern, and a giveaway prize too! See the giveaway details below, and join in the fun on the Scrappy Stitchers Facebook group. Remember to use the hashtag #ScrappyStitchersStashBash in your social media posts!
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
My stash yarns
For this doll I used some Paintbox Simply Aran yarn from my stash. I got some of it free from Love Crafts for various other designs, and some I purchased myself. This is one of my go-to, medium weight, acrylic yarns because it’s soft and easy to work with, and it comes in a wide variety of colors.
They have lots of lovely skin color options to choose from. Since I was working from my stash, I used #207 Vanilla. Instead of a pure white, I had #202 champagne white. For the blue, I used #234 Kingfisher Blue.
Ultra Plush Poly Fil
Our prize sponsor for this month’s giveaway is Fairfield World, the makers of Poly-Fil fiberfill. In this doll, I used their Ultra Plush Poly-Fil. I did receive this product for free from Fairfield, but it was for a previous project a while ago, so technically it’s still from my stash!
I love original Poly-Fil too, but the difference with the Ultra Plush is definitely noticeable. It’s softer, squishier, and smoother. Here’s a great video from Fairfield that shows a comparison of the two, along with some of their other fillers.
Enter the giveaway
Enter the giveaway for a chance to win a 12 oz bag of Ultra Plush Poly-Fil, so you can see the difference for yourself!
To be eligible, you must be 18 years of age or older, with a valid, US shipping address. The winner will be contacted by email, and must reply to that email and provide their selections and shipping address within 1 week in order to receive the prize. If the winner does not reply within 1 week, a new winner will be selected. The giveaway ends on April 30th, 2020 (at 11:59pm, central time). Hurry and enter below!
This giveaway is powered by Rafflecopter, and they may ask for some log-in information if you are not already logged in. See the Rafflecopter privacy policy for more information.
a Rafflecopter giveawayMaterials
- Yarn: Worsted weight yarn
- 75 yds white
- 175 yds blue
- 175 yds skin color
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Stitch Marker
- 2 small buttons – about 1/2 to 5/8 inch – these will be the ears, I used clear.
Project Level
Intermediate: Continuous rounds with shaping, multiple parts to assemble.
Size
About 16 inches tall without cap.
Gauge
13 dc x 8 rows = 4 inches. You can use the shirt front as a gauge swatch.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
blo = back loop only
dec = decrease (see Special Stitches)
inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
ch sp = chain space
rnd = round
WS = wrong side
RS = right side
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of next st, then sc in both loops of the same st. See Recommended Resources for full tutorial.
Decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Recommended Resources
- Continuous rounds and running stitch markers
- Why continuous rounds shift
- Working into the back bump
- Almost invisible increase
Instructions
Right Leg
Shoe
Rnd 1: With white, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around (12 sc)
Rnds 3-6: Sc in each st around (12 sc)
Rows 7-10 (heel): Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (12 sc)
Rnd 11 (WS): Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc)
Rnd 11 forms the back of the shoe.
Rnd 12 (RS): Turn / rotate to work into sides of heel rows. With RS facing, work 12 sc evenly spaced around ankle opening. Sl st into blo of first st, changing to blue. Leave an 8 inch tail of white for sewing.
Using tails, sew toe and back of heel closed, and weave in ends.
Much of the pattern is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless specifically indicated.
Leg:
Rnd 13: With blue, ch 1, sc in blo of each sc around, (12 sc)
Rnd 14-15: Sc in each st around. (12 sc)
Rnd 16: (Inc, sc in next 3 sts) 3 times. (15 sc)
Rnd 17-22: Sc in each st around (15 sc)
Rnd 23: (Dec, sc in next 3 sts) 3 times. (12 sc)
Rnd 24: Sc in each st around (12 sc)
Rnd 25: Rep rnd 16. (15 sc)
Rnds 26-31: Sc in each st around (15 sc)
Rnd 32: Sc in each st around, join with sl st in first st. (15 sc)
Crotch area (right leg only)
Row 33: Ch 1, turn, sk sl st, sc in next 5 sc, sl st in next st. (5 sc)
Row 34: Ch 1, turn, sk sl st, sc in next 5 sc, fasten off leaving an 8 inch tail for sewing. (5 sc).
Left Leg:
Work as for right leg through rnd 31.
Rnd 32: Sc in each st around, do not fasten off. (15 sc).
Stuff legs most of the way up.
Body:
Bottom
Rnd 1 (join legs): Sc in next 2 sc on left leg, sk next 5 sc on left leg, align legs with both shoes pointing in the same direction, work 2 sc in sides of rows on crotch area, sc in next 10 sc on right leg, work 2 sc in sides of rows on crotch area, sc in last 8 sc on right leg. (24 sts)
Rnd 2: Sc in next 11 sts, (inc, sc in next 4 sts) twice, inc, sc in last 2 sts. (27 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in next 12 sts, (inc, sc in next 4 sts) 3 times. (30 sts)
Rnd 4: (Inc, sc in next 4 sts) around. (36 sts)
Rnds 5-7: Sc in each st around (36 sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in next 23 sts, dec, sc in next 11 sts. (35 sts)
Rnd 9: Sc in next 21 sts, dec, sc in next st, dec, sc in last 9 sts. (33 sts)
Rnd 10: Sc in next 16 sts, (dec, sc in next 4 sts) twice, dec, sc in last 3 sts. (30 sts)
Rnd 11: Sc in each st around, join with sl st to blo of first st, changing to skin color. (30 sts).
Use tails to sew crotch area shut. The 5 skipped stitches on the left leg should line up with the 5 stitches on the crotch area.
Finish adding stuffing to legs. Continue stuffing as you go, through torso.
Torso:
Rnd 12: With skin color, ch 1, sc in blo of each st around. (30 sts).
Rnds 13-19: Sc in each st around. (30 sts)
Rnd 20: (Dec, sc in next 3 sts) around. (24 sts)
Rnd 21: Sc in each st around. (24 sts)
Rnd 22: (Dec, sc in next 2 sts) around. (18 sts)
Rnd 23: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sts)
Finish stuffing torso. Continue adding stuffing as you go through head.
Head
Rnd 24: (Inc, sc in next st) around. (18 sts)
Rnd 25: (Inc, sc in next 2 sts) around. (24 sts)
Rnd 26: (Inc, sc in next 3 sts) around. (30 sts)
Rnd 27: (Inc, sc in next 4 sts) around. (36 sts)
Rnds 28-36: Sc in each st around. (36 sts)
Rnd 37: (Dec, sc in next 4 sts) around. (30 sts)
Rnd 38: Rep rnd 20. (24 sts)
Rnds 39-40: Rep rnds 22-23. (12 sts)
Finish stuffing head.
Rnd 41: Dec around. Fasten off. (6 sts)
Use final tail to sew top of head closed, then weave in all remaining ends.
Arms (make 2)
Rnd 1: With skin color, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Inc around. (12 sc)
Rnds 3-25: Sc in each st around. (12 sc).
Stuff arm, leaving about an inch at the top unstuffed.
Fold top of arm flat so that first stitch is on the right edge. The stitches should line up into 6 pairs.
Row 26 (closing arm): Working through both layers, sl st in each st across. (6 sl sts)
Fasten off leaving a 10 inch tail for sewing.
Use the tails to sew the arms to the torso at the neckline (the flat area forms the shoulders).
When you are happy with the placement, weave in all ends.
Shirt
Back:
Ch 3 at beginning of row counts as a dc.
With blue, ch 23
Row 1 (RS): Working into back bumps of the chain, dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across. (21 dc)
Rows 2-9: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st across. (21 dc)
Fasten off, leaving a 10 inch tail for sewing.
Front:
With blue, ch 23
Rows 1-6: Repeat rows 1-6 of back. (21 dc)
Left shoulder
Row 7L: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 9 sts, leaving remaining 11 sts unworked. (10 dc)
Row 8L: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, sk first st, dc in next 9 sts. (9 dc)
Row 9L: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog. (8 sts)
Row 10L: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 7 sts. (8 sts)
Row 11L: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 7 sts, dc inc in next st. Fasten off, leaving a 10 inch tail for sewing(9 dc)
Right shoulder:
Working into unworked sts from row 6, sk first unworked st. Join blue with sl st in 2nd unworked st.
Row 7R: Ch 3, dc in next st and each st across. (10 dc)
Row 8R: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 7 sts, dc2tog. (9 sts)
Row 9R: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, sk first st, dc in next 8 sts. (8 sts)
Row 10R: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 7 sts. (8 sts)
Row 11R: Ch 3, turn, dc in same st and in each st across. Fasten off, leaving a 10 inch tail for sewing. (9 sts)
Seaming
Using tails, sew front to back at shoulder seams – there should be 3 unused stitches at the center of the back.
Fold shirt in half and sew side seams from rows 1-6 only. This should leave 4 rows open on each side for armholes.
Weave in all ends.
Mask
With white, ch 11
Row 1 (RS): Working in back bumps, Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch, hdc in next 6 chs, sc in last 2 chs. (10 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (10 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 6 sts, sc in last 2 sts. (10 sts)
Rows 4-5: Repeat rows 2-3
Edging / Strap:
- Ch 10, sk side edge, sl st in next corner (bottom left).
- Working across bottom of foundation chains, sl st in blo of each ch across.
- Ch 10, sk side edge, sl st in next corner (top right).
- Working across Row 5, sl st in blo of each st across.
Fasten off, weave in all ends.
Cap:
Rnd 1: With white, ch 4, 11 dc in 4th ch from hook, join with sl st to first st. (12 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc inc around, join with sl st to first st. (24 dc).
Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, (dc inc, dc in next st) around, join with sl st to first st. (36 dc)
Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, (dc inc, dc in next 2 sts) around, join with sl st to first st. (48 dc)
Rnds 5-7: Ch 3, dc in next st and in each st around, join with sl st to first st. (48 dc)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, (dec, sc in next 6 sts) around. (42 sts)
Rnd 9: (Dec, sc in next 5 sts) around. (36 sts)
Rnd 10: (Dec, sc in next 4 sts) around. (30 sts)
Rnd 11: Sc in each st around, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off. (30 sts)
Weave in all ends.
Finishing:
Sew on eyes with embroidery thread, or add safety eyes.
Create nose by sewing a few horizontal stitches with the skin color yarn.
Hold mask in place and use pins or stitch markers to mark where the ears should be to hold the straps taught. When you are happy with the ear locations, sew buttons on for ears.
Dress your doll in the shirt and hat, hook the mask onto the buttons, and your superhero is ready to save the world!
Rate this Superhero Crochet Doll Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this superhero crochet doll pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Crochet Fingerless Mitts for Spring – Mesh Mitts
Early spring brings some crazy weather. It can go from sunny and warm to windy and cold, sometimes even in the same day! Keep your hands warm, without being too warm, in these crochet, fingerless mitts! The open mesh is breathable with a lacy look and just the right amount of cozy for springtime.
Scrappy Stitchers Stash Bash Crochet Along
These Mesh Mitts are the March pattern for the 2020 Stash Bash Crochet Along. Each month, I will post a new, stash-busting pattern, and a giveaway prize too! See the giveaway details below, and join in the fun on the Scrappy Stitchers Facebook group. Remember to use the hashtag #ScrappyStitchersStashBash in your social media posts!
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
My stash yarns
For my mitts, I chose some Berroco Boboli Lace, which is now discontinued. I got this yarn from a de-stashing sale that Marly Bird did in 2017. I just love all the little bitts of color.
It’s a blend of wool, acrylic, and rayon, for a soft and shiny feel. It’s also a single, which means it’s one strand of yarn rather than multiple strands plied together. That means it’s a little fuzzier.
Berroco makes a similar yarn called Millefiori light, which is a close match in texture and gauge. It’s only wool and acrylic though, without the rayon, so it’s not as shiny.
Color Street Nails from Eye Love Knots
Our prize sponsor for this month’s giveaway is Alexandra Richards with Color Street Nails. Alexandra is also a crochet designer at Eye Love Knots, which is how I first met her. You may know her as one of the admins on the Scrappy Stitchers Facebook group as well.
As many of you know, I’m nuts about nail wraps. So when I found out Alexandra sells these, I had to try them, and I think they are FABULOUS! They go on easy, look great, and feel like real nail polish.
For me they last a couple of weeks, and they’re pretty easy to peel off when I’m done. They also come in lots of fun designs – check them out at Alexandra’s shop!
Enter the giveaway
Try out Color Street Nails for yourself! Enter the giveaway for a chance to win a set. The winner can choose from the available, in-stock designs on Alexandra’s shop. There are even some Easter designs due out soon!
Image courtesy of Alexandra Richards 
Image courtesy of Alexandra Richards
To be eligible, you must be 18 years of age or older, with a valid, US shipping address. The winner will be contacted by email, and must reply to that email and provide their selections and shipping address within 1 week in order to receive the prize. If the winner does not reply within 1 week, a new winner will be selected. The giveaway ends on March 31st, 2020 (at 11:59pm, central time). Hurry and enter below!
This giveaway is powered by Rafflecopter, and they may ask for some log-in information if you are not already logged in. See the Rafflecopter privacy policy for more information.
a Rafflecopter giveaway
Materials
- Yarn: 150 yds sport weight yarn
- Hook: Size G / 4 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- Stitch Marker
Project Level
Easy: Repeating stitch pattern worked in the round with minimal shaping.
Size
Adult, one size fits most.
Gauge
23 dc x 10 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge – Cuff should measure 1 inch x 7.5 inches before joining.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
blo = back loop only
dc = double crochet
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
ch sp = chain space
rnd = round
Recommended Resources
Instructions
Cuff
Ch 7
Row 1 (WS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across.
Rows 2-22: Ch 1, turn, hdc in blo of each st across.
Fold cuff lengthwise with right sides together.
Joining (WS): Working through both layers together, (ch 1, sl st in next st) across. Do not fasten off.
Turn cuff right side out, making sure the working yarn doesn’t get tangled in it as you do so. (If it does, try turning it the other way instead)
Hand
Hand is worked in continuous rounds, on the RS of the work. Do not turn or join rounds unless indicated. You may find it helpful to mark the first stitch of each round.
Rnd 1: Working in side of rows along cuff, ch 2 (counts as ch-1 sp), sc in first row, (ch 1, sc in next row) around. (22 sts, 22 sps)
For the remainder of the hand, work into ch-sps only, skipping all stitches.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, hdc in next ch-1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) around.
Rnds 3-9: (Ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) around.
Rnd 10 (thumbhole): Ch 3, sk first 5 ch-1 sps, dc in next ch-1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) around. (18 sts, 17 ch-1 sps, 1 ch-3 sp)
Rnd 11: Ch 1, dc in ch-3 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) around) (18 sts, 18 ch-1 sps)
Rnds 12-14: Rep rnd 4
Rnd 15: (Ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) around to last sp, ch-1, hdc in last sp.
Rnds 16-18: (Ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp) around.
Ending: Ch 1, sl st in next sp, fasten off.
Thumb (optional)
With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in any ch-1 sp around thumb hole.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 20 sc evenly spaced around thumb hole. (20 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 2 (counts as ch-1 sp), sk first st, hdc in next st, (ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st) around. (10 sts, 10 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 3: (Ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) around to last ch-1 sp, ch 1, hdc in last ch-1 sp.
Rnds 4-6: (Ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp) around.
Ending: Ch 1, sl st in next sp, fasten off.
Rate this Crochet Fingerless Mitts Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this crochet fingerless mitts pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Crochet Blanket Square – Tulips in the Snow
The snow may still be falling here and there, but spring is pushing through anyway. Bring a touch a spring to your next blanket with the Tulips in the Snow crochet blanket square. Make it as a 6 inch or 12 inch square!
You’ve Got Options!
This crochet blanket square is my pattern for the CAL Central “You’ve Got Options” Crochet Along. This crochet along features squares that have the option of being 6 inches or 12 inches. Get a new square every week, and then put them all together for a project. Make all 6 inch squares, all 12 inches squares, or even combine the two! Will you make a scarf? A pillow? A blanket? You’ve got options!
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Materials
- Yarn: Worsted weight yarn
- 70 yds white
- 35 yds green
- 45 yds purple
- Hook: Size I / 5.5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions: Yarn Needle
Project Level
Intermediate: Post stitches, popcorns, working in back loop only, and color changes.
Size
6″ square or 12″ square
Gauge
13 dc x 7 rows = 4 inches. Use 6 inch square pattern as a gauge swatch.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
fpdc = front post double crochet
V = v stitch (see special stitches)
pc = popcorn (see special stitches)
beg pc = beginning popcorn (see special stitches)
blo = back loop only
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
ch-sp = chain space
rnd = round
Recommended Resources
- Front and Back Post crochet from Jessie at Home
- Front loop only (flo) or back loop only (blo) crochet
- Popcorn Stitch from Look at What I Made
Special Stitches
V stitch (V): (Dc, ch-1, dc) in indicated st or sp.
Popcorn (pc): 5 dc in indicated st or sp, remove loop from hook, insert hook into first dc, place working loop back on hook and then pull the working loop through the stitch.
Beginning Popcorn (beg pc): (Ch 3, 4 dc) in indicated st or sp, remove loop from hook, insert hook into top of ch-3, place working loop back on hook and then pull the working loop through the ch-3.
Instructions
6 inch square – Alpine Stitch
Ch-3 at the beginning of a row or rnd counts as a dc. Ch-4 counts as a dc and a ch-1 sp. If a ch-2 counts as something, it will be specified in the row/rnd.
With white, ch 20
Row 1 (WS): Dc in 4th ch from hook and each ch across. (18 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as dc), [fpdc in next st, dc in next st] across to last st, dc in last st.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 5: Ch 2 (counts as dc), [dc in next st, fpdc in next st] across to last st, dc in last st.
Rows 6-15: Repeat rows 2-5 twice, then repeat rows 2-3 once more.
Rnd 16 (Edging rnd): Ch 2 (counts as ch-1 sp), do not turn. Working in sides of rows, work 18 sc evenly spaced across to corner, ch 1. Working across bottom of foundation row, sc in each ch across, ch 1. Working in sides of rows, work 18 sc evenly spaced across to corner, ch 1. Working across row 15, sc in each st across, join with sl st to starting ch-1 sp. (72 sc, 4 ch-1 sps).
For 6″ square, fasten off and weave in all ends. For 12″ square, do not fasten off.
Continue for 12″ square
The remainder of the square is worked on the RS. Do not turn your work.
Rnd 17: Ch 3, [dc in each st across to corner ch-1 sp, V in corner ch-1 sp] 3 times, dc in each st across, (dc, ch 1) in starting ch-1 sp, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off white. (80 dc, 4 ch-1 sps)
Tulips
Join green with sl st in any corner ch-1 sp.
Rnd 18: Ch 4, dc in same sp, *[sk next 2 sts, V in next st] 6 times, sk next 2 sts,** (V, ch 2, V) in corner ch-1 sp, repeat from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last repeat, (V, ch 2) in starting corner, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off green. (64 dc, 32 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps)
For rnds 19 & 20, work only in spaces and skip all the stitches.
Join purple with sl st in any corner ch-2 sp.
Rnd 19: Beg pc in same sp, ch 3, (pc, ch 3) in each ch-1 and ch-2 sp around, join to beg pc, fasten off purple. (36 popcorns, 36 ch-3 sps).
Join white with sl st in ch-3 sp after beg pc.
Rnd 20: Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, 3 dc in each of next 8 ch-3 sps, ch 2, [3 dc in each of next 9 ch-3 sps, ch 2] 3 times, join with sl st in first st, fasten off white. (108 dc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Border
Join green with sl st in any corner ch-2 sp.
Rnd 21: Ch 1, 2 sc in same sp, [sc in blo of each st across to next ch-2 sp, (2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc) in ch-2 sp] three times, sc in blo of each st across, (2 sc, ch 1) in starting ch-2 sp, join with sl st to first st, fasten off green. (124 sc, 4 ch-1 sps)
Join purple with sl st in any corner ch-2 sp.
Rnd 22: Ch 1, hdc in same sp, [hdc in blo of each st across to next ch-1 sp, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in ch-1 sp] 3 times, hdc in blo of each st across, (hdc, ch 1) in starting ch-1 sp, join with sl st to first st, fasten off purple. (140 hdc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Join green with sl st in any corner ch-2 sp.
Rnd 23: Ch 1, 3 sc in same sp, sc in blo of each st across to next ch-2 sp, [3 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in blo of each st across] 3 times, join with sl st to first st, fasten off green. (152 sc)
Finishing (both sizes)
Weave in all ends, wash and block.
Rate this Crochet Blanket Square Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this blanket square pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Tunisian Crochet Hat – Beatnik Basketweave Beanie
Embrace the offbeat with the far out, beatnik basketweave beanie. This crochet hat combines Tunisian and regular crochet techniques together, for a truly unique texture. It’s everything plus, daddy-o!
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Scrappy Stitchers Stash Bash Crochet Along
The Beatnik Basketweave Beanie is the second pattern in the 2020 Stash Bash Crochet Along. Each month, we will have a new, stash-busting pattern, and a giveaway prize too! See the giveaway details below, and join in the fun on the Scrappy Stitchers Facebook group. Remember to use the hashtag #ScrappyStitchersStashBash when you post about the CAL.
My stash yarn
For the this hat I used some Paintbox Simply Aran yarn that I had in my stash. The color is #234, Kingfisher Blue.
Brittany Needles and Hooks
Our prize sponsor this month is Brittany Needles and Hooks. I met them a while back at a conference, and they gave me a set of needles and a crochet hook to review.
Brittany hooks come in two different woods. The ones shown here are birch, and they are also available in black walnut. The handles come in 2 different designs (traditional and Victorian). My favorite is the more detailed Victorian style. Which one do you like best?
The crochet hook has a unique shape, with a straight shaft and no thumb grip. I’ve found this makes it the perfect hook for small sections of Tunisian crochet! I used it last year for a Tunisian entrelac cowl crochet along. It’s also handy for other stitches that require putting a lot of loops on your hook, like star stitches and puff stitches.
Enter the giveaway
Ready to try a Brittany hook? Enter the giveaway for a chance to win a birch hook with a victorian handle, just like the one I’m using! You can choose any size between D (3.25mm) and M (9mm) from this list of available sizes!
To be eligible, you must be 18 years of age or older, with a valid, US shipping address. The winner will be contacted by email, and must reply to that email and provide their selections and shipping address within 1 week in order to receive the prizes. If the winner does not reply within 1 week, a new winner will be selected. The giveaway ends on March 6th, 2020 (at 11:59pm, central time). Hurry and enter below!
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a Rafflecopter giveawayWorking into the 3rd loop
The regular crochet sections on this pattern are half double crochet stitches worked into the third loop. The third loop is in the back, and just below the front and back loops that we would normally work into.
For a more detailed look at working into the third loop of hdc, see this tutorial
Materials
- Yarn: 175 yds worsted weight yarn
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions: Yarn Needle
Project Level
Complex: Combines blocks of Tunisian crochet and half double crochet in the third loop.
Size
Adult, one size fits most.
Gauge
13 hdc x 12 rows = 4 inches.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tlo = third loop only
tss = Tunisian simple stitch
tks = Tunisian knit stitch
trs = Tunisian reverse stitch
FwP = forward pass
RetP = return pass
BO = bind off
yo = yarn over
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
rnd = round
Special Stitches
Starting TSS Block:
- FwP – (Insert hook in tlo, yo and draw up a loop) in each of next 6 sts. (7 loops on hook)
- RetP– Ch 1, (yo and pull through 2 loops on hook) 4 times, yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
- BO – Ch 1, sk first st, (sl st in front vertical bar of next st) 5 times
TSS Block:
- FwP – Working into the front vertical bars of the block below, (insert hook under front vertical bar, yo and draw up a loop) in each of next 6 sts. (7 loops on hook)
- RetP & BO – finish as for Starting TSS Block.
Instructions
Entire pattern is worked on the right side – do not turn your work.
Ribbing
Ch 6
Row 1 (Tunisian Foundation Row):
- FwP – Sk first ch, (insert hook, yo, and draw up a loop) in each remaining ch across. (6 loops on hook)
- RetP – Ch 1, (yo and pull through 2 loops on hook) 5 times. (6 sts)
Row 2: Tks across (6 sts)
Row 3: Trs across (6 sts)
Rows 4-72: Repeat rows 2-3 35 times, then repeat row 2 once more.
This should stretch to fit comfortably around your head. To adjust the size, make more or fewer rows.
Basketweave
Rnd 1: Working in sides of rows, work 72 hdc evenly spaced around. (72 hdc – multiple of 12).
Rnds 2: Ch 1, hdc in tlo of first 6 sts, starting tss block, (hdc in tlo of next 6 sts, starting tss block) around, join with sl st in tlo of first st. (6 tss blocks, 6 hdc blocks)
Rnd 3 – 5: Ch 1, hdc in tlo of first 6 sts, tss block, (hdc in tlo of next 6 sts, tss block) around, join with sl st in tlo of first st. (6 tss blocks, 6 hdc blocks)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, (starting tss block, hdc in front vertical bar of next 6 sts) around, join with sl st in starting ch 1. (6 tss blocks, 6 hdc blocks)
Rnds 7-9: Ch 1, (tss block, hdc in tlo of next 6 sts) around, join with sl st in starting ch 1. (6 tss blocks, 6 hdc blocks).
Rnds 10-17: Repeat rnds 2-9.
Crown
Rnd1: Sl st in front vertical bar of first st, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in front vertical bar of each of next 3 sts, dc2tog in front vertical bars of next 2 sts, dc in tlo of each of next 4 sts, dc2tog in tlo of next 2 sts ( dc in front vertical bar of each of next 4 sts, dc2tog in front vertical bars of next 2 sts, dc in tlo of each of next 4 sts, dc2tog in tlo of next 2 sts ) around, join with sl st in first st, (60 dc)
The essence of rnd 1 is that you are working 4 dc and 1 decrease into each block of 6 stitches. When you work into tss blocks, use the vertical bars. When you work into hdc, use the third loops.
Rnd 2: Ch 2, sk first st, dc in next 4 sts, (dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts) around, join with sl st to first dc. (48 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, sk first st, dc in next 3 sts, (dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts) around, join with sl st to first dc. (36 dc)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, sk first st, dc in next 2 sts, (dc2tog, dc in next st) around, join with sl st to first dc. (24 dc)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, sk first st, dc in next st, dc2tog around, join with sl st to first dc. (12 dc)
Finishing
Fasten off.
Use ending tail to sew crown closed.
Use starting tail to sew ends of ribbing together.
Weave in ends.
Rate this Tunisian Crochet Hat Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this crochet cowl pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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