Knitting Tutorials
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Knitted Kitchen #7 – Itty Bitty Bobbles Washcloth
The Itty Bitty Bobbles Washcloth is pattern #7 in the 2017 Knitted Kitchen Blog Hop. These tiny, 2-row bobbles are easy to make and do not involve turning your work back and forth for each bobble, like larger ones do. They create a fun, scrubby texture too! The pattern includes both written and charted versions of the instructions. There is also a video tutorial for making the bobbles.
The Knitted Kitchen Blog Hop is a knit-along event hosted by the Underground Crafter, and I couldn’t be more excited to be a part of it. Together with a great team of designers and will be bringing you 48 washcloth patterns throughout the year. Each pattern will include a photo and/or video tutorial, so it’s a fun way to learn new stitches and techniques.
Lion Brand has generously provided us with yarn for our designs. I’ve chosen their 24/7 Cotton for all my washcloths and am really enjoying working with it. For more information about the event and links to the patterns, be sure to visit the main #KnittedKitchen post. I hope you’ll join in the fun!
This post contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Itty Bitty Bobbles Washcloth
Add this to your Ravelry Queue
Materials:
- 95-170 yds Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton yarn – shown in Lilac
- Size 6 (4mm) knitting needles or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Difficulty:
Intermediate – Bobbles on a stockinette background, with a seed stitch border. Includes video tutorial for the bobbles.
Sizes:
Instructions are written for a 9″ square, with changes for a 12″ square in [ ]
Gauge:
20 sts x 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette.
Abbreviations used:
- k = knit
- p = purl
- sl = slip
- p4pso = pass 4 previous stitches over (see special stitch)
- RS = Right Side
- WS = Wrong Side
Recommended Resources:
Stitch multiples:
- The bobble pattern in the middle of this square is a multiple of 4 stitches plus 1 wide, and a multiple of 8 rows plus 2 tall.
- 2 extra stockinette stitches are added on each side of the chevron section, to make it stand out from the border, making it a multiple of 4 stitches plus 5. The number of stockinette rows before and after the bobbles section varies between the two squares.
- Both squares also include a seed stitch border of 5 rows on the top and bottom, and 4 stitches on each side.
Special Stitch:
Pass 4 previous stitches over (p4pso): On right needle, (pass the 2nd to last stitch over the last stitch) 4 times.
For this pattern, the p4pso is how the bobbles are finished. On the previous (right side row) you will have increased 1 stitch into 5 by working (k, p, k, p, k) all into the same stitch.
On this (wrong side) row, you will first be knitting those 5 stitches, then working the p4pso to decrease them back down to 1 stitch and complete the bobble. See video tutorial below.
Instructions:
Jump ahead to charts | Jump ahead to video tutorial
Cast on 45 [61]
Seed stitch bottom border:
Rows 1-5: Sl 1, (k 1, p 1) across.
Center of square
9 inch square only – Row 6 (RS): Sl 1, k 1, p 1, k across to last 3 sts, p 1, k 1, p 1.
Row 7 [6] (WS): Sl 1, k 1, p 1, k 1, p across to last 4 sts, (k 1, p 1) twice.
Row 8 [7]: Sl 1, k 1, p 1, k 3, {(k, p, k, p, k) all in next st, k 3} 9 [13] times, p 1, k 1, p 1. (81 [113] sts)
Row 9 [8]: Sl 1, k 1, p 1, k 1, p 2, (k 5, p4pso, p 3) 8 [12] times, k 5, p4pso, p 2, (k 1, p 1) twice. (45 [61] sts)
Row 10 [9]: Sl 1, k 1, p 1, k across to last 3 sts, p 1, k 1, p 1.
Row 11 [10]: Sl 1, k 1, p 1, k 1, p across to last 4 sts, (k 1, p 1) twice.
Row 12 [11]: Sl 1, k 1, p 1, k 5, {(k, p, k, p, k) all in next st, k 3} 8 [12] times, k 2, p 1, k 1, p 1. (77 [109] sts)
Row 13 [12]: Sl 1, k 1, p 1, k 1, p 4, (k 5, p4pso, p 3) 8 [12] times, p 1, (k 1, p 1) twice. (45 [61] sts)
Rows 14-15 [13-14]: Repeat rows 10-11 [9-10].
Rows 16-58 [15-80]: Repeat rows 8-15 [7-14] five [eight] more times, then repeat rows 8-10 [7-8] once more.
You should have just completed a RS [WS] row.
Seed stitch top border:
Rows 59-63 [81-85]: Repeat rows 1-5.
Bind off all stitches. Weave in ends.
Charts:
Go back to written instructions | Jump ahead to video tutorial
Note: these are the same pattern as the written instructions – do one or the other, not both.
Video Tutorial:
Go back to written instructions | Go back to charts
I hope you enjoy the pattern. Thanks to Lion Brand for providing the yarn, and to BluffCityDesigns, myjoha, and ThordisBonfanchi for testing the pattern!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Knitted Kitchen #3 – Garter Chevrons
This Garter Chevron Washcloth is pattern #3 in the 2017 Knitted Kitchen Blog Hop. It’s a simple design with just knits and purls, and is available in 9 inch and 12 inch sizes. The pattern includes both written and charted versions of the instructions. There is also a video tutorial that focuses on reading and following the charts.
The Knitted Kitchen Blog Hop is a knit-along event hosted by the Underground Crafter, and I couldn’t be more excited to be a part of it. Together with a great team of designers and will be bringing you 48 washcloth patterns throughout the year. Each pattern will include a photo and/or video tutorial, so it’s a fun way to learn new stitches and techniques. Join in and share your progress on the Facebook group or Ravelry group!
Lion Brand has generously provided us with yarn for our designs. I’ve chosen their 24/7 Cotton for all my washcloths and am really enjoying working with it. For more information about the event and links to the patterns, be sure to visit the main #KnittedKitchen post. I hope you’ll join in the fun!
This post contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Garter Chevron Washcloth
Add this to your Ravelry Queue
Materials:
- 60-110 yds Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton yarn – shown in Camel
- Size 6 (4mm) knitting needles or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Difficulty:
Easy – All basic knits and purls with a slip stitch selvedge.
Sizes:
Instructions are written for a 9″ square, with changes for a 12″ square in [ ]
Gauge:
20 sts x 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette.
Abbreviations used:
- k = knit
- p = purl
- sl = slip knitwise with yarn in back
- RS = Right Side
- WS = Wrong Side
Recommended Resources:
Stitch multiples:
- The garter chevron pattern in the middle of this square is a multiple of 8 stitches plus 1, and is 13 rows tall. The spacing between the chevron sections is different for the 2 squares.
- 2 extra stockinette stitches are added on each side of the chevron section, to make it stand out from the border, making it a multiple of 8 stitches plus 5.
- Both squares also include a seed stitch border of 5 rows on the top and bottom, and 4 stitches on each side.
Instructions:
Jump ahead to charts | Jump ahead to video tutorial
Cast on 45 [61]
Seed stitch bottom border:
Row 1 (WS): P1, (k 1, p 1) across.
Rows 2-5: Sl 1, (k 1, p 1) across.
Center of square
Row 6: Sl 1, k 1, p 1, k across to last 3 sts, p 1, k 1, p 1.
Row 7 and all WS rows for this section: Sl 1, k 1, p 1, k 1, p across to last 4 sts, (k 1, p 1) twice.
Row 8: Repeat row 6.
Row 10: Sl 1, k 1, p 1, k 3, p 1, (k 7, p 1) 4 [6] times, k 3, p 1, k 1, p 1.
Row 12: Sl 1, k 1, p 1, k 3, p 1, (p 1, k 5, p 2) 4 [6] times, k 3, p 1, k 1, p 1.
Row 14: Sl 1, k 1, p 1, k 3, p 1, (p 2, k 3, p 3) 4 [6] times, k 3, p 1, k 1, p 1.
Row 16: Sl 1, k 1, p 1, k 4, (p 3, k 1) 8 [12] times, k 3, p 1, k 1, p 1.
Row 18: Sl 1, k 1, p 1, k 5, (p 5, k 3) 4 [6] times, k 2, p 1, k 1, p 1.
Row 20: Sl 1, k 1, p 1, k 6, (p 3, k 5) 4 [6] times, (k 1, p 1) twice.
Row 22: Sl 1, k 1, p 1, k 7, (p 1, k 7) 4 [6] times, p 1, k 1, p 1.
9 inch square only:
Rows 24-25: Repeat rows 6-7.
Rows 26-57: Repeat rows 10-25 twice more.
Row 58: Repeat row 6.
12 inch square only:
Rows 24-26: Repeat rows 6-7, then repeat row 6 once more.
Rows 27-80: Repeat rows 9-26 three times more.
Seed stitch top border:
Rows 59-63 [81-85]: Repeat rows 3-4 twice, then repeat row 3 once more.
Bind off all stitches. Weave in ends.
Charts:
Go back to written instructions | Jump ahead to video tutorial
Note: these are the same pattern as the written instructions – do one or the other, not both.
Video Tutorial:
Go back to written instructions | Go back to charts
I hope you enjoy the pattern. Thanks to Lion Brand for providing the yarn!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
If you would like to receive notifications of new posts and patterns as they become available, please follow this blog. You can follow by e-mail (look at the sidebar on the right for the follow by email option), or via RSS feed, or via your WordPress.com reader: Follow Stitches ‘N’ Scraps on WordPress.com-
How to Decrease in Double Knitting
Double knitting projects can have shaping! By slightly rearranging the stitches, you can work decreases while maintaining the 2 separate layers. This technique is perfect for shaping hats, sleeves, and anywhere else you might want to decrease in double knitting!
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This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
What is Double Knitting?
Double knitting is a technique of knitting two pieces at the same time by alternating stitches between the two pieces. The layers can be joined together or kept completely separate. In either case, the stitches alternate between a front layer and a back layer. Learn more about double knitting, including other tutorials and patterns, in this Guide to Double Knitting!
Double Knitting Colorwork
Switching the working yarns between the two layers is a common way to create colorwork. The crossed yarns join the layers together into one reversible piece, like in the Sweethearts Ear Warmer pattern.
2 Separate Layers
Carefully keeping the 2 working yarns separate and not allowing them to cross yields 2 independent layers that are not connected. This is most commonly used as part of a tubular bind-off, where ribbing is separated into 2 layers which are then grafted together.
It’s also a fun way to knit 2 matching pieces at one time! You can knit one sock or sleeve inside another and then pull them apart at the end.
2 Stitch Decrease in Double Knitting
(Scroll down for video tutorial)
You can work a decrease over any number of stitches in double knitting using the same concepts. Let’s first look at a basic decrease worked over 2 stitches.
Identify the layers
In the sample shown here, the green front layer is worked from the right side, while the blue back layer is worked from the wrong side. The wrong sides of the 2 layers are together, with the right sides facing out. This is the most common arrangement used in double knitting, though other arrangements are also possible.
Working and Non-Working Needles
For this tutorial, the working needle (WN) is the needle in your dominant hand. This means the right hand needle if you are knitting right handed, and the left hand needle if you are knitting left handed. The non-working needle (NWN) is the needle in the opposite hand.
Swap the Stitches
Before working a decrease, we need the 2 stitches for the decrease to be next to each other on each layer. This means we need to swap the positions of the stitches.
First, slip the first front stitch to the WN.
Then remove the next (back) stitch from the NWN. Place it on a cable needle or stitch marker to secure it so it doesn’t pull out. Drop this stitch to the back of your work.
Place the previously slipped front stitch back onto the NWN. Now you have 2 front stitches next to each other and are ready to work the front decrease.
Front Decrease
Work the decrease over the next 2 stitches as normal. In this example, I am working a knit 2 together. Note that I’m only holding the cable needle up so you can see it in the picture. Normally, I would leave it hanging in the back while working the decrease.
Back Decrease
Next, transfer the dropped back stitch back onto the NWN. Now there are 2 back stitches next to each other. Work the back decrease as normal. In this example, since I am working the back layer from the wrong side of the fabric, it’s a purl 2 together decrease.
Each layer now has a matching decrease, and you can continue knitting as normal.
Double Knitting Decrease Over More Than 2 Stitches
To decrease over more than 2 stitches, re-arrange the stitches on the needle so that all stitches needed for the decrease are next to each other on each layer. Slip front layer stitches to the WN and move back layer stitches to a holder until you can put enough front layer stitches together to work your front decrease. Then put the back layer stitches back on the NWN and work your back layer decrease.
How to Decrease in Double Knitting Video Tutorial
Want to jump to a specific section? Click on the timestamp below to go directly to that spot in the video! These links open on YouTube, in a new window or tab.
Learn More
Visit this Guide to Double Knitting to learn more about the technique. The page includes additional information, tutorials, patterns, and more.
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How to Fix Knitting Mistakes Without Ripping Out Rows/Rounds
Have you ever found a mistake several rows or rounds later? You may be able to fix it without ripping out all that work! Learn how to fix knitting mistakes without frogging (ripping out rows or rounds), by dropping the problematic stitch and “laddering” it back up again.
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This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Fix Knitting Mistakes in Basic Stitches First
It is possible to use this technique with complicated stitch patterns like lace and cables, but it’s more difficult. Learn the technique on basic stitch patterns first, before trying something more complicated. In this tutorial, we’ll look at how to fix knitting mistakes in basic knit and purl patterns only.
This technique is also easiest to learn on plain, smooth yarn in a worsted or larger weight. Tiny yarns, splitty yarns or fuzzy yarns all make the process a little harder.
How to Fix Knitting Mistakes
Get a Crochet Hook or Latch Hook
While it is possible to do this with just the needles, using a crochet hook is easier. Any hook size that can comfortably work with your yarn will do, but a crochet hook similar in size to your knitting needles is ideal. A latch hook is also a good option.
Drop the Problem Stitch (Laddering Down)
First, continue working the next row up to the stitch directly above the mistake. If you prefer, you can just transfer the stitches to another needle instead of working them.
When you get to the right stitch, take it off the needle. Then, carefully let the stitch drop down past the mistake. I know, this is the scary part, but it will be ok! This is also called “laddering down” because it forms a ladder of dropped threads.
Ladder Back Up
Now you have your stitch below where the mistake was, and a ladder of horizontal bars ready to take you back up to the top. All you have to do, is “climb” back up the ladder, using the crochet hook to form knit and purl stitches as needed.
Knitting and Purling
The difference between the knit and purl stitches is the direction in which you pull the “ladder” yarn through the loop. Think of the horizontal “ladder” yarn as your working yarn. To knit, the working yarn needs to be behind your working loop, and to purl it needs to be in front.
Fixing a Knit Stitch
To knit, move the horizontal yarn behind the loop. Then use the crochet hook to pull the working yarn through the loop from back to front.
Fixing a Purl Stitch
To purl, move the horizontal yarn in front of the loop. Then use the crochet hook to pull the working yarn through the loop from front to back.
Pay Attention to Tension
As you ladder back up, try to keep each stitch even in tension with its neighboring stitches. Ease any excess yarn into the stitches on either side if necessary.
Finishing
Once you reach the top again, just slip the corrected stitch back onto the needle. Look – the mistake is all gone!
Resume knitting where you left off. If you knit up to the corrected stitch in the first step, continue knitting starting with that corrected stitch. If you slipped stitches to get to the problem stitch, then slip those stitches back again to begin knitting where your tail is.
Fixing Knitting Mistakes Video Tutorial
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