Free Crochet Patterns
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Giving Cozy Easy Crochet Mittens
Give the gift of comfort where it’s needed most with Giving Cozy Mittens! Made entirely in single crochet, this easy crochet mittens pattern is quick to stitch and ideal for charity drives, community projects, craft fairs, or gifting. Simple, practical, and oh-so-cozy, the pattern includes 5 sizes from toddler to large adult, so every hand can find warmth.
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2025 Yarnsgiving with CYC & CGOA
Each year, the Craft Yarn Council (CYC) hosts a Yarnsgiving campaign. It runs from October 11 (I love Yarn Day) to December 2 (Giving Tuesday). This year, the Crochet Guild of America (CGOA) is supporting the project by organizing a Community Projects page with knit and crochet patterns. This easy crochet mittens pattern is my design for the event.
Lions Club Knit-a-thon
Twice a year, the North Aurora Lion’s Club here in Illinois hosts a knit-a-thon for charity. It’s one of my favorite events! We get together for a day of knitting and crochet (and pizza) and collect hundreds of items for local charities.
Maddie’s Mitten March
One such charity is Maddie’s Mitten March. Started by Maddie many years ago when she was a young girl, they collect warm weather gear (including mittens) for families in need. Mittens are among the most requested items, so I always make a pair at the knit-a-thon.
This easy crochet mittens pattern is the basic construction I use, though I often play with different stitch patterns and colors for fun.
Red Heart With Love and Caron One Pound Yarns
In the interest of using up some of my overflowing yarn stash, I went stash diving for some pretty yarns that Yarnspirations had provided for previous designs.
For this easy crochet mittens pattern, I chose some pretty Red Heart with Love that I originally used for the Tropical Stripes Market Bag, and Caron One Pound that I originally used for the Snuggle Square Pet Blanket.
The mittens are shown in:
- Toddler – Red Heart with Love 1711 Cameo
- Child – Caron One Pound 10523 Azure
- Small – Caron One Pound 10616 Soft Gray Mix
- Medium – Red Heart with Love 1711 Cameo
- Large – Caron One Pound 10546 Midnight Blue
These yarns are so versatile and the skeins are so generous, that I’ve used these same leftovers in several other patterns as well:
And I still have more left!
Prym Crochet Hooks
I’ve always been a fan of metal hooks and used them almost exclusively…until I found these hooks by Prym. Bamboo and plastic hooks always felt too “sticky” to me, with the yarn sliding much more smoothly on metal.
I said as much when I talked to the Prym representatives at a trade show a couple of years ago. They promised me their plastic was different and gave me some hooks to try. Needless to say, I was hooked!
The synthetic material in these Prym Ergonomics hooks is different from the typical acrylic hooks I had tried before. It’s smooth and glides like metal. The ergonomic grips are comfortable and slightly warm to the touch too. I used one of these hooks for this easy crochet mittens pattern, and find myself reaching for these just as often as my old favorites!
Materials
- Yarn: 55 [100, 120, 135, 160] yds Red Heart with Love (solids) – 100% acrylic, worsted weight yarn (370 yds / 7 oz / 198 g per skein) or Caron One Pound – 100% acrylic, worsted weight yarn (812 yds / 16 oz / 454 g per skein), shown in:
- Toddler – Red Heart with Love 1711 Cameo
- Child – Caron One Pound 10523 Azure
- Small – Caron One Pound 10616 Soft Gray Mix
- Medium – Red Heart with Love 1711 Cameo
- Large – Caron One Pound 10546 Midnight Blue
- Hook: Prym Ergonomics size I / 5.5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Stitch markers (2)
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Easy: Working in back loops and sides of rows, working in the round, sc2tog decreases.
Sizes
Toddler, [Child, Teen/Small, Medium, Large]
To fit hand circumference (above thumb): 5 [6, 7, 8, 9] inches / 12.5 [15, 17.5, 20, 22.5] cm
Gauge
12 sc = 4 inches / 10 cm; 14 sc rnds = 4 inches / 10 cm
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
| blo | back loop only |
| ch | chain |
| rem | remain(s/ing) |
| rep | repeat |
| rnd | round |
| RS | right side |
| sc | single crochet |
| sc2tog | single crochet next 2 sts together |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| WS | wrong side |
| yo | yarn over |
Instructions
Right Mitten:
Cuff
Ch 7 [9, 11, 11, 11]
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (6 [8, 10, 10, 10] sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in blo of each st across.
Rows 3-12 [14, 16, 18, 20]: [Rep Rnd 2] 10 [12, 14, 16, 18] times.
Cuff Seam: Fold cuff in half with RS together so first and last row meet and row 1 is in front. Working through ch at bottom of Row 1 and blo of last row together, sl st in each st across. Turn cuff RS out, being careful not to trap working yarn inside cuff.
Wrist and Lower Hand
Work remainder of Mitten in continuous rounds, on RS. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark first st of rnd and move marker up with each rnd.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, working in ends of rows of Ribbing, work 16 [19, 22, 25, 28] sc evenly sp around cuff. (16 [19, 22, 25, 28] sts)
Rnd 2: Sc in each st around.
Rnds 3-6 [8, 10, 11, 12]: [Rep Rnd 2] 4 [6, 8, 9, 10] times.
Thumb Opening
Rnd 1: Ch 2, sk first 3 [4, 5, 6, 6] sts, sc in each rem st around. (13 [16, 17, 19, 22] sts, 2 chs)
Upper Hand
Rnd 1: Sc in each ch and st around. (15 [17, 19, 21, 24] sts)
Rnd 2: Sc in each st around.
Rnds 3-6 [8, 9, 11, 12]: [Rep Rnd 2] 4 [5, 7, 9, 10] times.
Finger Shaping
Setup (partial rnd): Lay Mitten flat so that thumb opening is in the center on one side, place marker on last rnd worked, directly above and in line with center of thumb opening, sc in each st (if any) to 2 [2, 3, 3, 3] sts before marker (this should be 0 [1, 1, 2, 2] sc, but may vary if you have worked more or fewer rows in Upper Hand). Remove marker.
Beginning of rnd has now shifted to 2 [2, 3, 3, 3] sts before center of thumb opening. Move beginning of rnd marker to first st of next rnd, and continue moving up with each rnd.
Sizes Toddler, Child, Teen/Small, and Medium only
Rnd 1: Sc2tog, sc in next 7 [8, 9, 10, -] sts, place marker in last st made, sc in last 6 [7, 8, 9, -] sts. (14 [16, 18, 20, -] sts)
Size Large only
Rnd 1: [Sc2tog, sc in next 10 sts, sc2tog, place marker in sc2tog just made, sc in last 10 sts. (22 sts)
All Sizes
Rnd 2: Sc2tog, sc in each st to marked st, sc2tog, move marker to sc2tog just made, sc in each st around. (12 [14, 16, 18, 20] sts)
Sizes Child, Teen/Small, Medium, and Large only
Rnd(s) – [3, 3, 3-4, 3-5]: [Rep Rnd 2] – [1, 1, 2, 3] times. (- [12, 14, 14, 14] sts)
All Sizes
Sl st in first st of rnd, fasten off, leaving a 12″ / 30 cm tail for sewing. Remove marker.
Thumb
Rnd 1: Join yarn with sl st in any st around Thumb Opening, 7 [7, 9, 10, 10] sc evenly sp around Thumb Opening (this should work out to 1 sc in each skipped st, 1 sc in each ch above skipped sts, and 1 sc in each side edge.) (7 [7, 9, 10, 10] sts)
Rnd 2: Sc in each st around.
Rnds 3-5 [6, 7, 8, 8]: [Rep Rnd 2] 3 [4, 5, 6, 6] times.
Fasten off.
Finishing
Turn Mitten WS out
Flatten Finger Shaping so decreases are at side edges (note that first st of rnd is a decrease). Working through both layers, use tail to sew top closed.
Weave ending Thumb tail through each st around top of Thumb, then pull gently to close top of thumb.
Weave in all ends. Turn Mitten RS out. Wash and block as desired.
Left Mitten
Work Cuff, Wrist and Lower Hand, Thumb Opening, and Upper Hand as for Right Mitten.
Finger Shaping
Sizes Toddler & Child only
Setup (partial rnd): Lay Mitten flat so that thumb opening is in the center on one side, place marker on last rnd worked, directly above and in line with center of thumb opening, sc in each st to marked st, sc in marked st, remove marker. (this should be 3 [4, -, -, -] sc, but may vary if you have worked more or fewer rows in Upper Hand).
Sizes Teen/Small, Medium, & Large only
Setup (partial rnd): Lay Mitten flat so that thumb opening is in the center on one side, place marker on last rnd worked, directly above and in line with center of thumb opening, sc in each st to marked st, sc in marked st, sc in next st, remove marker. (this should be – [-, 6, 7, 7] sc, but may vary if you have worked more or fewer rows in Upper Hand).
All Sizes
Beginning of rnd has now shifted to 1 [1, 2, 2, 2] sts after center of thumb opening. Place a new marker in first st of next rnd and move up with each rnd.
Work remainder of Finger Shaping, Thumb, and Finishing as for Right Mitten.
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I hope you enjoyed this crochet square pattern! A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. If you are using this pattern for a group charity project, please contact me to get a free pdf version for your event!
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Bloodlines Striped Fingerless Mitts
Indulge your sanguine desires with the dark elegance of Bloodlines. Bands of claret and crimson bring a touch of gothic drama to your autumn wardrobe. A subtle sparkle makes these striped fingerless mitts an alluring accessory for Samhain or Halloween, or a bold pop of color for every day!
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CAL Central Halloween Crochet Along
This Moon Phases Wall Hanging is my design for the 2025 Halloween Crochet Along at CAL Central. Join in the fun on the Facebook Group. See the main post for the full schedule, other patterns, and giveaway information too!
King Cole Glitz DK Yarn
I used King Glitz DK yarn for these striped, fingerless mitts. The smooth, acrylic yarn has just enough sparkle to catch the eye, without being overwhelming or making the yarn feel scratchy.
The sample shows 481 Cherry as color A, and 3389 Merlot as color B. Merlot is no longer available but 3504 Flame or 480 Jet would be excellent alternatives.
Joggless Rounds
When crocheting in continuous rounds, the stitches form a spiral rather than stacked, circular rounds. This means that simple stripes will create a distinct color shift or jog at the beginning of the round.
These striped fingerless mitts use an easy technique to minimize that jog. The first row of each stripe starts with a slip stitch worked in the back loop only. On the next row, the first stitch goes into the stitch below that slip stitch. This slight modification pulls the first and last stitch of that row together, creating much more seamless stripes.
Materials
- Yarn: King Cole Glitz DK – 97% premium acrylic, 3% polyester yarn (317 yds / 3.5 oz / 100g per skein)
- 60 [100, 120] yds 481 Cherry (A)
- 55 [80, 90] yds 3389 Merlot (B)
- Hook: Size 7 / 4.5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Stitch marker or scrap of yarn to use as running stitch marker
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Easy: Foundation half double crochet, increases and decreases, working in continuous rounds with joggless stripes
Sizes
Child, [Small, Large]
To fit hand circumference: 5-6.5 [6.5-7.5, 7.5-9] inches / 12.5-16.5 [16.5-19, 19-22.5] cm
Gauge
15 hdc = 4 inches / 10 cm; 14 rnds = 4.5 inches / 11 cm
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
| blo | back loop only |
| ch | chain |
| dc | double crochet |
| fhdc | foundation half double crochet (see Special Stitches) |
| hdc | half double crochet |
| rem | remain(s/ing) |
| rep | repeat |
| rnd | round |
| RS | right side |
| sc | single crochet |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| WS | wrong side |
| yo | yarn over |
Special Stitches
Foundation Half Double Crochet (fhdc): Yo, insert hook in ch at base of previous st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through 1 lp on hook (base ch made), yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook (hdc made).
Jogless Stripe:
Use these two rounds as indicated throughout to create more seamless color changes.
Jogless Stripe Rnd 1: Sl st in blo of first st, hdc in each rem st around.
Jogless Stripe Rnd 2: Hdc in st below first sl st of rnd, working around the sl st so it is encapsulated within the spike hdc, hdc in each rem st around.
Instructions
Work in continuous rounds on RS. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark first st of rnd and move marker up with each rnd.
Decrease to Wrist
Color A Stripe
Rnd 1 (RS): With A, ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook, work 19 [24, 28] fhdc. (20 [25, 29] sts)
Rnd 2: Hdc in each st around.
Rnd 3: Hdc2tog, hdc in each rem st around. (19 [24, 28] sts)
Rnd 4: Hdc in each st around, change to B in last st.
Carry unused color up in last st of each rnd.
Color B Stripe
Rnds 5-6: Work Jogless Join Rnds 1 & 2.
Rnd 7: Hdc2tog, hdc in each rem st around. (18 [23, 27] sts)
Rnd 8: Hdc in each st around, change to A in last st.
Color A Stripe
Rnds 9-12: Rep Rnds 5-8, changing to B (instead of A) at end of Rnd 8. (17 [22, 26] sts)
Repeats
Rnds 13-16 [20, 20]: Rep Rnds 5-8 [12, 12] once more. (16 [20, 24] sts)
Hand
Color A [B, B] Stripe – Increasing
Rnds 1-2: Work Jogless Join Rnds 1 & 2.
Rnd 3: [Hdc in next 7 (4, 5) sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. (18 [24, 28] sts)
Rnd 4: Hdc in each st around, change to B [A, A] in last st.
Color B [A, A] Stripe – Thumb Opening
Rnds 5-6: Work Jogless Join Rnds 1 & 2.
Rnd 7: Ch 2, sk first 4 [6, 6] sts, hdc in each rem st around. (14 [18, 22] sts, 1 ch-2 sp)
Rnd 8: Hdc in each st and ch around, change to A [B, B] in last st. (16 [20, 24] sts)
Sizes Small & Large Only – Color B Stripe
Rnds 9-10: Work Jogless Join Rnds 1 & 2.
Rnds 11-12: Hdc in each st and ch around, change to A in last st.
Fingers – All Sizes
Color A Stripe
Rnds 1-2: Work Jogless Join Rnds 1 & 2.
Rnd 3: Hdc in each st around.
Rnd 4: Hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first st, changing to B in joining sl st.
Shell Edging
Finger Edging Rnd: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch-1), dc in same st, sk next st, sc in next st, sk next st, [(dc, ch 1) twice in next st, dc in same st, sk next st, sc in next st, sk next st] around, (dc, ch 1) in same st as beginning ch-4, join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, fasten off, remove all markers.
Arm Edging Rnd: With RS facing and working in bottoms of foundation sts, join B with sl st in any st around bottom edge. Rep Finger Edging Rnd.
Thumb
With RS facing, join B [A, A] with sl st in any st around thumb opening.
Rnd 1: (Sc, 9 [11, 11] hdc) evenly spaced around thumb opening. (10 [12, 12] sts)
Rnds 2-3: Hdc in each st around.
Size Child only
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around, join with sl st to first st, fasten off.
Sizes Small & Large only
Rnd 4: Hdc in each st around.
Rnd 5: Hdc in each st around, join with sl st in first st, changing to B in sl st.
Rnd 6: With B, ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first st, fasten off.
Finishing (All Sizes)
Weave in all ends. Wash and block gently to open up shell edging.
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Feisty the Baby Fox Amigurumi Crochet Pattern
Feisty the Baby Fox is full of mischief and fun! They love to play chase and hunting games with their other baby animal friends. This fox amigurumi crochet pattern is quick and easy, and makes a great first amigurumi project.
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CAL Central Toybox Crochet Along
This crochet amigurumi watering can is my second design for the 2025 Toybox Crochet Along (CAL) at CAL Central. The CAL is separated into 4 themes, and our current theme is Woodland Creatures.
My previous pattern, this Mini Watering Can, was for the Garden theme.
Join in the fun on the Facebook Group. See the main post for the full schedule, other patterns, and giveaway information too!
Red Foxes
I live in the Fox River Valley area of Illinois. As the name would suggest, foxes, particularly red foxes, are everywhere in these parts! They’re most active at night, but you can sometimes catch them resting in a sunny spot in a backyard.
Here’s an Instagram reel of a beautiful fox my dog and I saw finishing up some breakfast while out for a walk. We’ve seen this same fox a few times, along with a partner.
One autumn, my mom had a fox who would paw at her back door wanting to come inside! Foxes are beautiful to look at and help keep the area free of rodents and other pests, but they’re definitely wild creatures and best enjoyed from a distance.
Baby Buddies
Fiesty loves to play with his baby friends. All are made with the same basic body design. Make them all for a playtime set!
The Baby Buddies set includes Awesome the Baby Elephant, Noble the Lion Cub, Bravo the Bear Cub, Sunny the Baby Bunny, Breezy the Baby Bat, Playful the Baby Penguin, Smiley the Baby Sloth, and Feisty the Baby Fox.
Poly Fil Premium Fiber Fill
Fairfield World generously sent me lots of Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber Filling for these softie designs. This is my go-to stuffing material for all my crochet amigurumi patterns because it’s so soft and squishy and easy to use.
They also send me some of their Poly Pellets, which are great for adding a bit of weight and stability to your amigurumi. For this Fox amigurumi pattern, I put a few pellets (about 20 or 30) into a small plastic bag, and nestled that bag into the stuffing, near the bottom. Because the pellets can be a choking hazard if they get loose, avoid using them if the project is for small children.
Materials
- Yarn: Worsted weight yarn
- 50 yds orange
- 25 yds white
- 5-10 yds black
- Hook: Size H/ 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Fairfield Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber Filling
- Yarn Needle
- Stitch Marker or scrap of yarn to use as marker
Project Level
Easy: Mostly single crochet in the round, with some increases and decreases.
Size
7 inches tall not counting ears.
Gauge
14 sc x 14 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch – Rounds 1 – 4 should measure 2.25 inches in diameter. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
| ch | chain |
| dc | double crochet |
| dec | decrease (see Special Stitches) |
| inc | increase (see Special Stitches) |
| rep | repeat |
| rnd | round |
| RS | right side |
| sc | single crochet |
| sk | skip |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| sp | space |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
Recommended Resources
Special Stitches
Increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of next st, then sc in both loops of same st. See full tutorial here.
Decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both indicated sts, yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through both loops on hook.
This is an alternative to a single crochet 2-together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Instructions
Body
Body, head, and muzzle are worked in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark first stitch of each round.
With orange, ch 2
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Inc in next st, sc in next st] around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [Inc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts] around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 6: [Inc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts] around. (30 sts)
Rnds 7-10: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 11: [Dec, sc in each of next 3 sts] around. (24 sts)
Rnds 12-15: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 16: [Dec, sc in each of next 2 sts] around. (18 sts)
Rnds 17-18: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 19: [Dec, sc in next st] around. (12 sts)
Stuff Body most of the way full and continue stuffing as you go.
Head
Rnds 20-22: Repeat Rnds 3-5 of Body
Rnd 23: Sc in next 6 sts, ch 6, sk next 6 sts, sc in last 12 sts. (18 sts, 1 ch-6 sp for muzzle opening)
Rnd 24: Sc in each st and each ch around. (24 sts)
Rnd 25: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 26: [Dec, sc in next 2 sts] around. (18 sts)
Rnd 27: [Dec, sc in next st] around. (12 sts)
Rnd 28: Dec around. (6 sts)
Fasten off.
Using tails, sew top of Head and bottom of Body closed, then weave in all ends.
Finish stuffing Head through muzzle opening.
Front Patch
With white, ch 7.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (6 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st, sc in last st. (8 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, inc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st, sc in last st. (10 sts)
Rows 5-8: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, dec, sc in next 4 sts, dec, sc in last st. (8 sts)
Rows 10-13: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 14: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, dec, sc in next 2 sts, dec, sc in last st. (6 sts)
Rows 15-17: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 18: Rep Row 2.
Row 19: Rep Row 4.
Row 20: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (10 sts)
Edging: Ch 1, turn, sl st in each st and each row around entire outer edge. (56 sl sts)
Fasten off leaving a 60″ tail for sewing. Weave in starting tail.
With RS up, line up center of Row 20 of Front Patch with 6 skipped sts from Rnd 23 of Head, at bottom of muzzle opening. 6 sts of Front Patch should line up with muzzle opening sts, with 2 extra sts on each side. Bottom of Front Patch should rest along bottom of Rnd 3 of Body.
Sew front patch in place around entire edge using long tail.
Muzzle
With RS facing, join white with sl st in any st or ch around muzzle opening.
Rnd 1: Work 14 sc evenly spaced around muzzle opening.
This works out to 1 sc in each st, 1 sc in the bottom of each ch, and 1 extra sc in each side, where the stitches and chains meet.
Rnd 2: [Dec, sc in next 5 sts] twice. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Dec, sc in next 2 sts] around. (9 sts)
Rnd 4: [Dec, sc in next st] around. (6 sts)
Fasten off.
Stuff muzzle. If needed, you can use the back of your hook, a knitting needle, a chopstick, or other similar tool to push the stuffing into the muzzle.
Using tail, sew muzzle closed and weave in all ends.
Ear (Make 2)
With orange, ch 2, leaving an 8-inch tail for sewing.
Row 1: 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (4 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in last st. (6 sts)
Change to black, cut orange, leaving a tail to weave in.
Row 3: With black, Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (6 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, dec twice, sc in last st. (4 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, dec twice. (2 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, dec. (1 st)
Fasten off. Weave in ending tail.
Pinch ends of Row 1 together and sew in place with starting tail. Then sew Ear to top of Head.
Finishing
Weave in all ends.
With black, embroider nose and eyes.
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Backbeat Crochet Beanie
Need a hat that’s not too light and not too warm? You need the syncopated rhythm of the Backbeat Beanie! The soft yarn and lightweight texture make it just warm enough for a chilly evening breeze. With an easy, repeating stitch pattern and 4 available sizes, it’s a great crochet beanie pattern to make for charity projects too!
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King Cole Comfort Aran Yarn
I used King Cole Comfort Aran yarn for this crochet beanie. The acrylic and nylon blend is beautifully soft and smooth, with just a bit of shine to it. It comes in a range of colors, from brights to pastels and neutrals.
The sample shows 3457 Orchid as color A and 3329 Truffle as color B.
Comfort Crocheting
This crochet beanie pattern is ideal for stitching in front of the TV or chatting with friends. The back-and-forth, alternating rhythm of the 2-stitch repeat is easy and relaxing.
One single and one double crochet pair up to form a repeat. Work each pair into the single crochet of the pair below. The alternating stitch heights create the texture, which spirals around the hat in continuous rounds.
Materials
- Yarn: King Cole Comfort Aran – 60% acrylic, 40% nylon yarn (220 yds / 3.5 oz / 100g per skein)
- 75 [90, 100, 125] yds 3457 Orchid (A)
- 20 [20, 30, 35] yds 3329 Truffle (B)
- Hooks:
- Size I / 5.5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Size H / 5 mm crochet hook, or 0.5 mm smaller than larger hook
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Easy: Basic stitches, working in continuous rounds, increases, working in back loops only, working in ends of rows.
Sizes
Baby, [Child, Small, Large]
To fit head circumference: 16-18 [18-20, 20-22, 22-24] inches / 40-45 [45-50, 50-55, 55-60] cm
Gauge
With larger hook in sc-dc pattern, 6 sc-dc groups = 4.25 inches / 10.5 cm; 11 rnds = 4 inches / 10 cm
Gauge Swatch:
Work in continuous rounds without joining.
Rnd 1: Ch 29, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (28 sc)
Rnd 2: [(Sc, dc) in next sc, sk next sc] around. (14 sc-dc groups)
Rnds 3-13: [(Sc, dc) in next sc, sk next dc] around.
Fold swatch flat and measure gauge across the center, avoiding edges.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
| blo | back loop only |
| ch | chain |
| dc | double crochet |
| rep | repeat |
| rnd | round |
| RS | right side |
| sc | single crochet |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| WS | wrong side |
Recommended Resources
Instructions
Ribbing
With B and smaller hook, ch 9 [9, 13, 13], leaving an 8″ / 20 cm tail for sewing.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (8 [8, 12, 12] sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in blo of each st across.
Rows 3-36 [40, 44, 50]: [Rep Rnd 2].
Ribbing should now measure approximately 13.75 [15.25, 16.75, 19]” / 34.5 [38, 42, 47.5] cm.
With RS facing, rotate to work across side edge of Ribbing. Change to larger hook.
To change color in joining sl st, use new color to work sl st.
Joining Rnd (RS): With larger hook and working in sides of rows, ch 1, work 42 [48, 54, 60] sc evenly spaced across Ribbing, join with sl st in first st, changing to A, asten off B. (42 [48, 54, 60] sc)
Body
Body is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join, turn, or work any chs at beginning of rnds, Mark first st of each rnd.
Rnd 1: Sk first st, (sc, dc) in next st, [sk next st, (sc, dc) in next st] around. (21 [24, 27, 30] sc-dc groups)
Rnd 2: [(Sc, dc) in next sc, sk next dc] around.
[Rep Rnd 2] 7 times more.
Crown
Throughout Crown, you may find it helpful to place a marker in each individual sc that is not part of an sc-dc group.
Rnd 1: *Sc in next sc, sk next dc, [(sc, dc) in next sc, sk next dc] 2 [3, 3, 4] times, sc in next sc, sk next dc, [(sc, dc) in next sc, sk next dc] 3 [3, 4, 4] times; rep from * twice more. (6 sc, 15 [18, 21, 24] sc-dc groups)
Rnd 2: *Sc in next sc, dc in next sc, sk next dc, [(sc, dc) in next sc, sk next dc] 1 [2, 2, 3] time(s), sc in next sc, dc in next sc, sk next dc, [(sc, dc) in next sc, sk next dc] 2 [2, 3, 4] times; rep from * twice more. (15 [18, 21, 24] sc-dc groups)
Rnd 3: *Sc in next sc, sk next dc, [(sc, dc) in next sc, sk next dc] 1 [2, 2, 3] time(s), sc in next sc, sk next dc, [(sc, dc) in next sc, sk next dc] 2 [2, 3, 4] times; rep from * twice more. (6 sc, 9 [12, 15, 18] sc-dc groups)
Size 1 only
Rnd 4: *[Sc in next sc, dc in next sc, sk next dc] twice, (sc, dc) in next sc, sk next dc; rep from * twice more. (9 sc-dc groups)
Rnd 5: Skipping all dc, sc in next sc, [dc in next sc, sc in next sc] around. (5 sc, 4 dc)
Sizes 2-4 only
Rnd 4: *Sc in next sc, dc in next sc, sk next dc, [(sc, dc) in next sc, sk next dc] – [1, 1, 2] times, sc in next sc, dc in next sc, sk next dc, [(sc, dc) in next sc, sk next dc] – [1, 2, 3] times; rep from * twice more. (- [12, 15, 18] sc-dc groups)
Rnd 5: *Sc in next sc, sk next dc, [(sc, dc) in next sc, sk next dc] – [1, 1, 2] time(s), sc in next sc, sk next dc, [(sc, dc) in next sc, sk next dc] – [1, 2, 3] times; rep from * twice more. (6 sc, – [6, 9, 12] sc-dc groups)
Size 2 only
Rnd 6: [Sc in next sc, dc in next sc, sk next dc] 6 times. (6 sc-dc groups)
Rnd 7: Skipping all dc, [sc in next sc, dc in next sc] around. (3 sc, 3 dc)
Size 3 only
Rnd 6: *[Sc in next sc, dc in next sc, sk next dc] twice, (sc, dc) in next sc, sk next dc; rep from * twice more. (9 sc-dc groups)
Rnd 7: Skipping all dc, sc in next sc, [dc in next sc, sc in next sc] around. (5 sc, 4 dc)
Size 4 only
Rnd 6: *[Sc in next sc, dc in next sc, sk next dc] twice, (sc, dc) in next sc, sk next dc; rep from * twice more. (9 sc-dc groups)
Rnd 7: Skipping all dc, sc in next sc, [dc in next sc, sc in next sc] around. (5 sc, 4 dc)
Rnd 8: [Sc in next sc, dc in next sc, sk next dc] 6 times. (6 sc-dc groups)
Rnd 9: Skipping all dc, [sc in next sc, dc in next sc] around. (3 sc, 3 dc)
Finishing (all sizes)
Fasten off. Remove any markers.
Weave tail through remaining sts and pull tight to close top of hat.
With WS facing, use long tail to sew first and last rows of Ribbing together.
Weave in all ends. Wash and block.
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Wild Jasmine Crochet Square Pattern
Bursting with texture, the Wild Jasmine blanket square is a floral-inspired journey through a variety of engaging stitch patterns. Fans, crosses, and puffs surround the jasmine stitch center circle that gives this crochet square pattern its name. The layered textures create a light, airy, and delicate feel, with just the right amount of structure.
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Moogly Afghan CAL
I designed this crochet square pattern for the Moogly 2025 afghan CAL. Are you crocheting along? This is square number 14 out of a total of 24 squares. But there’s still plenty of time to catch up! See the main post for the full schedule and links to all the squares.
Take a look at the block 14 post to see how Moogly’s version of this crochet square pattern turned out.
King Cole Comfort Aran Yarn
I used King Cole Comfort Aran yarn for this crochet square pattern. The acrylic and nylon blend is beautifully soft and smooth, with just a bit of shine to it. It comes in lots of lovely colors from brights to pastels and neutrals.
The solid color sample shows color 3328 Grey. For the multi-colored sample, I used 333 Cream, 3457 Orchid, and 3329 Truffle.
Video Tutorial Available!
Need a little extra help with this pattern? Grab the pattern and then follow along with the step-by-step video tutorial!
Materials
- Yarn: 150 yds King Cole Comfort Aran – 60% acrylic, 40% nylon yarn (220 yds / 3.5 oz / 100g per skein) – See note below
- Hook: Size J / 6 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
Note: Solid sample shows color 3328 Grey. Multi-colored sample shows the following yarn colors and amounts.
- 50 yds Cream (333): Rnds 1-4
- 30 yds Orchid (3457): Rnds 5-7 & 11-13
- 70 yds Truffle (3329): Rnds 8-10 & 14-15
Project Level
Intermediate: Jasmine stitch, puff stitches, back loop only, post stitches and crossed stitches.
Size
Approximately 12 inches / 30 cm square
Gauge
Rnds 1-7 of pattern = 7 inches / 17.5 cm square.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
| 2-puff cl | 2 puff stitch cluster (see Special Stitches) |
| 3-puff cl | 3 puff stitch cluster (see Special Stitches) |
| blo | back loop only |
| bphdc | back post half double crochet (see Special Stitches) |
| ch | chain |
| csdc | chainless starting double crochet (see Special Stitches) |
| dc | double crochet |
| fpdc | front post double crochet (see Special Stitches) |
| hdc | half double crochet |
| LC | left cross (see Special Stitches) |
| puff | puff stitch (see Special Stitches) |
| rep | repeat |
| rnd | round |
| RS | right side |
| sc | single crochet |
| sc2tog | single crochet 2 together |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| sm puff | small puff stitch (see Special Stitches) |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| WS | wrong side |
| yo | yarn over |
Recommended Resources
Special Stitches
Back Post Half Double Crochet (bphdc): Yo, insert hook from back to front and to back again around post of indicated st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Chainless Starting Double Crochet (csdc): Pull working loop up to height of a dc, while holding loop firmly in place, twist hook counterclockwise (towards you first and then around the back) around loop creating a faux yarn over (both strands of this yarn over together count as 1 loop on hook), insert hook in first st, yo and pull up a loop, [yo and pull through 2 loops on hook] twice.
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Yo, insert hook from front to back and out to front again around post of indicated st, yo and pull up a loop, [yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice.
Left Cross (LC): Sk next st, fpdc around next st, working in front of fpdc just made, fpdc around skipped st.
Puff Stitch (puff): [Yo, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo and pull a loop up] 4 times (9 loops on hook), yo and pull through all 9 loops on hook, ch 1 to close.
Jasmine Stitches
Sm Puff Stitch (sm puff): [Yo, insert hook in magic ring, yo and pull a loop up] 3 times (7 loops on hook), yo, hold working yarn with non-hook hand so it doesn’t get lost inside stitch (you will need to put your hook under it again later) and pull through all 7 loops on hook, insert hook under held yarn, yo and pull through held yarn and lp on hook (top of st), ch 1.
This is the first or “anchor” puff of the Jasmine stitch pattern. The height of this puff stitch will determine the size of all the puffs in the Jasmine stitch section).
2 Puff Stitch Cluster (2-puff cl): Pull working loop up to same size as last puff or cl made, [yo, insert hook where indicated for first leg, yo and pull a loop up to same height as other loop(s)] 3 times (7 loops on hook – first leg of cluster), [yo, insert hook where indicated for 2nd leg, yo and pull a loop up to same height as other loops] 3 times (13 loops on hook – 2nd leg of cluster), yo, hold working yarn with non-hook hand and pull through all 13 loops on hook, insert hook under held yarn, yo and pull through held yarn and lp on hook (top of st), ch 1.
3 Puff Stitch Cluster (3-puff cl): Pull working loop up to same size as last puff or cl made, [yo, insert hook where indicated for 1st leg, yo and pull a loop up to same height as other loop(s)] 3 times (7 loops on hook – first leg of cluster), [yo, insert hook where indicated for 2nd leg, yo and pull a loop up to same height as other loops] 3 times (13 loops on hook – 2nd leg of cluster), [yo, insert hook where indicated for 3rd leg, yo and pull a loop up to same height as other loops] 3 times (19 loops on hook – 3rd leg of cluster) yo, hold the working yarn with non-hook hand and pull through all 19 loops on hook, insert hook under held yarn, yo and pull through held yarn and loop on hook (top of st), ch 1.
Instructions
Jasmine Stitch Center Circle
Scroll down for chart
Make a magic ring and ch 1.
If you prefer not to use a magic ring, ch 2 and treat 2nd ch from hook as magic ring for Rnd 1. All Rnds are worked on RS, do not turn your work.
Rnd 1 (RS): Sm puff in magic ring, 2-puff cl placing first leg in sm puff just made and 2nd leg in magic ring, [2-puff cl placing first leg in cl just made and 2nd leg in magic ring] 3 times, 3-puff cl placing first leg in cl just made, 2nd leg in magic ring, and 3rd leg in top of beginning sm puff, pull tail to tighten magic ring. (1 sm puff, 4 2-puff cls, 1 3-puff cls).
Rnd 2: 2-puff cl placing first leg in top of cl just made and 2nd leg in top of beginning sm puff of Rnd 1, place marker in cl just made to find it more easily later, [3-puff cl placing first leg in top of cl just made, 2nd leg in top of next st (at base of last leg of previous cl), and 3rd leg in top of next st, 2-puff cl placing first leg in top of cl just made and 2nd leg in top of next st (at base of last leg of previous cl)] 5 times, 3-puff cl (do not ch-1 at end of this cl) placing first leg in top of cl just made, 2nd leg in top of next st, and 3rd leg in marked top of first cl of rnd, remove marker. (6 2-puff cls, 6 3-puff cls)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, 4 sc in top of each cl around, join with sl st in first st. (48 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, bphdc around each st around, join with sl st in first st. (48 bphdc)
Rnds 1-4 Chart
Circle to Square
Scroll down for chart
Rnd 5: Ch 1, puff in first st, ch 2, *(puff, dc) in next st, dc in next st, sk next 2 sts, (2 dc, hdc) in next st, sc in next 2 sts, (hdc, 2 dc) in next st, sk next 2 sts, dc in next st**, (dc, puff) in next st, ch 2; rep from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last rep, dc in same st as beginning puff, join with sl st in beginning puff, sl st in first ch-2 sp. (8 puffs, 32 dc, 8 hdc, 8 sc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, (puff, ch 2, puff, dc) in first ch-2 sp, *dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts**, (dc, puff, ch 2, puff, dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last rep, dc in beginning ch-2 sp, join with sl st in beginning puff, sl st in first ch-2 sp. (8 puffs, 24 dc, 16 hdc, 24 sc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in first ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 1) in each st to next ch-2 sp, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 1) in each st to next ch-2 sp] 3 times, join with sl st to first st, sl st in first ch-2 sp. (80 sc, 76 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rounds 5-7 Chart
Crossed Stitches
Scroll down for chart
Rnd 8: Ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in first ch-2 sp, skipping all ch-1 sps, sc in blo of each sc to next ch-2 sp, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-2 sp, sc in blo of each sc to next ch-2 sp] 3 times, join with sl st to first st, sl st in first ch-2 sp. (88 sc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in first ch-2 sp, LC across to next ch-2 sp, [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next ch-2 sp, LC across to next ch-2 sp] 3 times, join with sl st to first st, sl st in first ch-2 sp. (44 LC, 8 hdc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 10: Repeat Rnd 7. (104 sc, 100 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps)
Fans
Scroll down for chart
Rnd 11: Ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in first ch-2 sp, skipping all ch-1 sps and working in blo of all sts, sc in next 12 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 12 sts, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 12 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 12 sts] 3 times, join with sl st to first st, sl st in first ch-2 sp. (108 sc, 4 ch-2 sps)
If you prefer, you can work “Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch-2 sp)” instead of “Csdc, ch 2” in Rnd 12.
Rnd 12: (Csdc, ch 2, 2 dc) in first ch-2 sp, *dc in next st, sk next 2 sts, (dc, ch 1, puff, ch 1, dc) in next st, [sk next 4 sts, (dc, ch 1, puff, ch 1, dc) in next st] 4 times, sk next 2 sts, dc in next st**, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last rep, dc in beginning ch-2 sp, join with sl st in first st, sl st in first ch-2 sp. (20 puffs, 64 dc, 40 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps)
Adjusting for Size
If your square is already close to 12″, work alternate Rnd 13 and skip Border.
Rnd 13: Ch 1, (hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in first ch-2 sp, *hdc in next 3 sts, [sk next dc, 2 hdc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next puff, 2 hdc in next ch-1 sp, sk next dc] 5 times, hdc in next 3 sts**, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last rep, dc in beginning ch-2 sp, join with sl st in first st, sl st in first ch-2 sp. (120 hdc, 20 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps)
Alternate Rnd 13 (to skip Border): Ch 1, (hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in first ch-2 sp, *hdc in next 3 sts, [sk next dc, 2 hdc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next puff, 2 hdc in next ch-1 sp, sk next dc] 5 times, hdc in next 3 sts**, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last rep, dc in beginning ch-2 sp, join with sl st in first st, sl st in first ch-2 sp. (120 hdc, 20 sc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rounds 8-13 Chart
Border
Rnd 14: Ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in first ch-2 sp, sc in blo of each st and in each ch-1 sp (as normal) across to next ch-2 sp, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-2 sp, sc in blo of each st and in each ch-1 sp across to next ch-2 sp] 3 times, join with sl st in first st. (148 sc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Adjusting for Size
To adjust size, skip or rep Rnd 15 as needed.
Rnd 15: Sl st in first ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in first ch-2 sp, sc in each st across to next ch-2 sp, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-2 sp, sc in each st across to next ch-2 sp] 3 times, join with sl st in first st, sl st in first ch-2 sp. (156 sc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Wash and block.
Full Square Chart
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The Flynnster Crochet Chevron Blanket
Add drama and flair to your decor with the Flynnster! Bold stripes, dynamic chevrons, and playful textures come together in this crochet chevron blanket. Whether topping a cozy bed or draped over a favorite chair, this statement piece is sure to add a punch of personality!
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Totally Textured Crochet Chevrons
The Flynnster is all about the textures. From puffs to shells to third loops, each stripe in the repeating pattern adds something new. Post-stitch cables tie it all together at the peaks and valleys of the chevron design.
Puff Stitches
Puff stitches are one of my favorite ways to add texture, because they look great from both sides of the fabric! Take a deeper dive into crochet puff stitches with this Crochet Puff Stitch Tutorial.
Paintbox Simply Aran Yarn
I made this crochet chevron blanket for a close friend, to coordinate with specific colors in a rug. We chose Paintbox Simply Aran because it’s an affordable, soft, worsted-weight, acrylic yarn with a whole lot of colors to choose from. For the sample, we went with Vanilla Cream, Mustard Yellow, and Rich Teal.
Materials
- Yarn: Painbox Simply Aran – 100% acrylic yarn (201 yds / 3.5 oz / 100g per skein)
- 155 [190, 235, 275, 440] yds color 207 Vanilla Cream (A)
- 450 [550, 675, 800, 1275] yds color 223 Mustard Yellow (B)
- 460 [565, 700, 825, 1300] yds color 64 Rich Teal (C)
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Intermediate: Puff stitches, post stitches, working in front and third loops, increases and decreases.
Sizes
Stroller [Baby, Lapghan, Toddler, Throw]
Sample shown in throw size. All lengths are measured from point of chevron at one end to valley of chevron at opposite end.
Width: 30 [37, 37, 44, 51] inches / 75 [92.5, 92.5, 110, 127.5] cm
Length: 40 [40, 47.5, 47.5, 62.5] inches / 100 [100, 118.5, 118.5, 156] cm
Gauge
In pattern: 26-stitch repeat = 7″, 16-row repeat = 7.5″
Gauge Swatch: Ch 54. Work Rows 1-18 of pattern. Measure gauge across center of swatch, avoiding edges.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- alt-hdc3tog = alternative half double crochet 3 together (see Special Stitches)
- bpdc = back post double crochet (see Special Stitches)
- bptr = back post treble crochet (see Special Stitches)
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet
- fpdtr = front post double treble crochet (see Special Stitches)
- hdc = half double crochet
- puff = puff stitch (see Special Stitches)
- rep = repeat
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
- sc3tog = single crochet 3 together
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- tl-fl = third loop and front loop together (see Special Stitches)
- tr = treble crochet
- WS = wrong side
- yo = yarn over
Recommended Resources
- The Flynnster Crochet Blanket Tutorial (coming soon!)
- How to Crochet Without a Slip Knot
- Puff Stitches
- Working into the 3rd Loop of Half Double Crochet
Special Stitches & Techniques
Alternative Half Double Crochet 3 Together: Yo, [insert hook in next st, yo and pull up a loop] twice, yo, insert hook in next st, yo and pull up a loop.
This is just like a normal half double crochet 3-together, except that it skips the 2nd yarn over to reduce bulk.
Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc): Yo, insert hook from back to front and out to back again around post of indicated st, yo and pull up a loop, [yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice.
Back Post Treble Crochet (bptr): Yo twice, insert hook from back to front and out to back again around post of indicated st, yo and pull up a loop, [yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times.
Front Post Double Treble Crochet (fpdtr): Yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back and out to front again around post of indicated st, yo and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), [yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] 4 times.
Puff Stitch (puff): [Yo, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo and pull a loop up to height of current row] 4 times (9 loops on hook), yo and pull through all 9 loops on hook.
Third Loop and Front Loop (tl-fl): This is worked on WS, into half double crochets. When working in rows and turning, third loop is in front of and below front loop. When instructed to work in tl-fl, insert hook into third loop and front loop together, leaving back loop exposed on RS of work.
See this 3rd Loop Tutorial for a closer look at finding the third loops.
Instructions
Scroll down for chart.
Bottom Stripe
With A, ch 106 [132, 132, 158, 184] (multiple of 26 plus 28)
Row 1 (RS): 2 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, *hdc in each of next 9 chs, hdc2tog, dc in next ch (valley), hdc2tog, hdc in each of next 9 chs**, 2 hdc in next ch, dc in next ch (peak), 2 hdc in next ch; rep from * across to last 2 chs, ending at ** on last rep, hdc in next ch, 2 hdc in last ch. (98 [122, 122, 146, 170] hdc, 7 [9, 9, 11, 13] dc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, *sc in each of next 9 sts, sc2tog, bpdc around next dc (valley), sc2tog, sc in each of next 9 sts**, 2 sc in next st, bpdc around next dc (peak), 2 sc in next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts, ending at ** on last rep, sc in next st, 2 sc in last st, change to B. (98 [122, 122, 146, 170] sc, 7 [9, 9, 11, 13] bpdc)
Carry colors A and B up at edge of rows until needed again, unless otherwise instructed. Do not carry color C up except in Border.
Half Double Crochet Stripe
Row 3: With B, ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next st, *hdc in each of next 10 sts, alt-hdc3tog (valley), hdc in each of next 10 sts**, 3 hdc in next st (peak); rep from * across to last 2 sts, ending at ** on last rep, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in last st. (105 [131, 131, 157, 183] hdc)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in tl-fl of next st, *hdc in tl-fl of each of next 10 sts, alt-hdc3tog (valley), hdc in tl-fl of each of next 10 sts**, 3 hdc in next st (peak); rep from * across to last 2 sts, ending at ** on last rep, hdc in tl-fl of next st, 2 hdc in last st, change to C. (105 [131, 131, 157, 183] hdc)
Treble Crochet Bumps
Row 5: With C, ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, *[tr in next st, sc in next st] 4 times, tr in next st, sc2tog, fpdtr around bpdc 3 rows below (valley), sc2tog, [tr in next st, sc in next st] 4 times, tr in next st**, 2 sc in next st, fpdtr around bpdc 3 rows below (peak), 2 sc in next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts, ending at ** on last rep, sc in next st, 2 sc in last st. (58 [72, 72, 86, 100] sc, 40 [50, 50, 60, 70] tr, 7 [9, 9, 11, 13] fpdtr)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first sc, tr in next sc, *[sc in next sc, tr in next tr] 4 times, sc in next sc, sc2tog, bptr around next st (valley), sc2tog, [sc in next sc, tr in next tr] 4 times, sc in next sc**, (tr, sc) in next sc, bptr around next st (peak), (sc, tr) in next sc; rep from * across to last 2 sc, ending at ** on last rep, tr in next sc, 2 sc in last sc, change to B. (58 [72, 72, 86, 100] sc, 40 [50, 50, 60, 70] tr, 7 [9, 9, 11, 13] bptr)
Rows 7-8: Rep Rows 3-4.
Shells
Row 9: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in first st, sc in next st, *sk next st, 3 dc in next st, [sk next st, sc in next st, sk next st, 3 dc in next st] twice, sk next st, fpdtr around bptr 3 rows below (valley), sk next st, 3 dc in next st, [sk next st, sc in next st, sk next st, 3 dc in next st] twice, sk next st**, 2 sc in next st, fpdtr around bptr 3 rows below (peak), 2 sc in next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts, ending at ** on last rep, sc in next st, 2 dc in last st, change to B. (30 [38, 38, 46, 54] sc, 76 [94, 94, 112, 130] dc, 7 [9, 9, 11, 13] fpdtr)
Row 10: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first dc, sk next st, 3 dc in next sc, *[sk next dc, sc in next dc, sk next dc, 3 dc in next sc] twice, sk next dc, sl st in next dc, sk next dc, bptr around next st (valley), sk next dc, sl st in next dc, sk next dc, [3 dc in next sc, sk next dc, sc in next dc, sk next dc] twice**, 4 dc in next sc, sk next sc, bptr around next st (peak), sk next sc, 4 dc in next sc; rep from * across to last 2 sts, ending at ** on last rep, 3 dc in next sc, sk next dc, 2 sc in last dc, change to B. (20 [24, 24, 28, 32] sc, 78 [98, 98, 118, 138] dc, 7 [9, 9, 11, 13] bptr)
Rows 11-12: Rep Rows 3-4.
Puffs
Row 13: Ch 1, hdc in first st, *ch 1, puff in next st, [ch 1, sk next st, puff in next st] 5 times, sk next st, fpdtr around bptr 3 rows below (valley), [sk next st, puff in next st, ch 1] 6 times**, fpdtr around bptr 3 rows below (peak); rep from * across to last st, ending at ** on last rep, hdc in last st. (48 [60, 60, 72, 84] puffs, 2 hdc, 7 [9, 9, 11, 13] fpdtr, 48 [60, 60, 72, 84] ch-1 sps)
Row 14: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *[2 sc in next ch-1 sp, sk next puff] 6 times, bptr around next st (valley), [sk next puff, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp] 6 times**, bptr around next st (peak); rep from * across to last st, ending at ** on last rep, sc in last st. (98 [122, 122, 146, 170] sc, 7 [9, 9, 11, 13] bptr)
Rows 15-16: Rep Rows 3-4, at end of Row 16, change to A instead of C, cut B leaving a tail to weave in later. Start a new section of B when needed again.
Sc Stripe and Repeats
Row 17: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, *sc in each of next 9 sts, sc2tog, fpdtr around bptr 3 rows below (valley), sc2tog, sc in each of next 9 sts**, 2 sc in next st, fpdtr around bptr 3 rows below (peak), 2 sc in next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts, ending at ** on last rep, sc in next st, 2 sc in last st. (98 [122, 122, 146, 170] sc, 7 [9, 9, 11, 13] fpdtr)
Row 18: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, *sc in each of next 9 sts, sc2tog, bpdc around next st (valley), sc2tog, sc in each of next 9 sts**, 2 sc in next st, bpdc around next st (peak), 2 sc in next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts, ending at ** on last rep, sc in next st, 2 sc in last st, change to B. (98 [122, 122, 146, 170] [218, 266, 314, 362] sc, 7 [9, 9, 11, 13] [17, 21, 25, 29] bpdc)
[Repeat Rows 3-18] 4 [4, 5, 5, 7] [11, 11, 12, 12] times more or to desired length. Do not change colors at end of last row. Fasten off B.
The Flynnster Chart
Chart does not include Border.
Border
Rnd 1 (RS): Continuing with A, work around entire outside edge of blanket as follows: (Total of 456 [508, 556, 608, 756] [1052, 1156, 1308, 1412] sc, 4 corner ch-2 sps)
- Top edge: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, *sc in each of next 11 sts, sc3tog (valley), sc in each of next 11 sts**, 3 sc in next st (peak); rep from * across to last st, ending at ** on last rep, 2 sc in last st, ch 2. (105 [131, 131, 157, 183] [235, 287, 339, 391] sc, 1 corner ch-2 sp)
- Left Side edge: Working in ends of rows across side edge, [3 sc evenly spaced in next 2 rows] to next corner, ch 2. (123 [123, 147, 147, 195] [291, 291, 315, 315] sc, 1 corner ch-2 sp)
- Bottom edge: Working in foundation chs at bottom of Row 1, sc2tog, *sc in each of next 11 chs, 3 sc in next ch (peak), sc in each of next 11 chs**, sc3tog (valley); rep from * across to last 2 chs, ending at ** on last rep, sc2tog, ch 2. (105 [131, 131, 157, 183] [235, 287, 339, 391] sc, 1 corner ch-2 sp)
- Right Side edge: Working in ends of rows across side edge, [3 sc evenly spaced in next 2 rows] to beginning corner, ch 2, join with sl st to first st, change to C. Do not cut A, carry A up in first st of Rnd 2. (123 [123, 147, 147, 195] [291, 291, 315, 315] sc, 1 corner ch-2 sp)
Rnd 2 (RS): (Total of 464 [516, 564, 616, 764] [1060, 1164, 1316, 1420] sc, 4 corner ch-2 sps)
- Top edge: With C, ch 1, do not turn, 2 sc in first st, *sc in each of next 11 sts, sc3tog (valley), sc in each of next 11 sts**, 3 sc in next st (peak); rep from * across to last st before corner ch-2 sp, ending at ** on last rep, 2 sc in last st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp. (107 [133, 133, 159, 185] [237, 289, 341, 393] sc, 1 corner ch-2 sp)
- Left Side edge: Sc in each st across to next corner ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp. (125 [125, 149, 149, 197] [293, 293, 317, 317] sc, 1 corner ch-2 sp)
- Bottom edge: Sc2tog, *sc in each of next 11 sts, 3 sc in next st (peak), sc in each of next 11 sts**, sc3tog (valley); rep from * across to last 2 sts before ch-2 sp, ending at ** on last rep, sc2tog, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp. (107 [133, 133, 159, 185] [237, 289, 341, 393] sc, 1 corner ch-2 sp)
- Right Side edge: Sc in each st across to next corner ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, join with sl st to first st, change to A, cut C leaving a tail to weave in later. (125 [125, 149, 149, 197] [293, 293, 317, 317] sc, 1 corner ch-2 sp)
Rnd 3 (RS): (Total of 476 [528, 576, 628, 776] [1072, 1176, 1328, 1432] sc)
- Top edge: With A, ch 1, do not turn, 2 sc in first st, *sc in each of next 11 sts, sc3tog (valley), sc in each of next 11 sts**, 3 sc in next st (peak); rep from * across to last 2 sts before corner ch-2 sp, ending at ** on last rep, sc in next st, 2 sc in last st, 3 sc in ch-2 sp. (110 [136, 136, 162, 188] [240, 292, 344, 396] sc)
- Left Side edge: Sc in each st across to next corner ch-2 sp, 3 sc in ch-2 sp. (128 [128, 152, 152, 200] [296, 296, 320, 320] sc)
- Bottom edge: Sc2tog, sc in next st, *sc in each of next 11 sts, 3 sc in next st (peak), sc in each of next 11 sts**, sc3tog (valley); rep from * across to last 3 sts before ch-2 sp, ending at ** on last rep, sc in next st, sc2tog, 3 sc in ch-2 sp. (110 [136, 136, 162, 188] [240, 292, 344, 396] sc)
- Right Side edge: Sc in each st across to next corner ch-2 sp, 3 sc in ch-2 sp, join with sl st in first st, fasten off A. (128 [128, 152, 152, 200] [296, 296, 320, 320] sc)
Weave in ends. Wash and block as desired
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Linen Puff Textured Crochet Washcloth
Combine linen stitch and puff stitches in this totally textured crochet washcloth! The Linen Puff Washcloth is crocheted from the center out, in a simple, repeating pattern. Make it in one color, 2 colors, or more!
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Dishcloth of the Month Crochet Along
This textured crochet washcloth is my design for the 2025 Dishcloth of the Month Crochet Along (CAL) hosted by Oombawka Design Crochet and The Stitchin’ Mommy. Follow along for 3 new washcloth patterns every month throughout the year!
The other 2 patterns this month are a lovely Half Double Crochet V-Stitch dishcloth from The Stitchin Mommy and the Make it Quick Dishcloth from Oombawka Designs.
Free PDF with Coupon Code!
As part of the CAL, you can get the pdf version of this textured crochet washcloth pattern for FREE on Ravelry with a coupon code! But hurry, this code is only valid for a short time and then it’s gone!
Coupon Code: DishclothCAL2025
Terms: This code expires at 11:59pm Eastern time on Monday, June 9, 2025. Please make sure the discount shows in your cart before completing checkout. Due to the fees involved, I cannot refund accidental purchases.
Drops Paris Yarn
This textured, crochet washcloth is a great stashbuster. For the sample, I used some Drops Paris Yarn that was left over from a previous pattern several years ago. I originally received that yarn for free for that pattern, and really enjoyed working with it!
It’s a soft, absorbent, unmercerized cotton, with so many great colors to choose from! I used #37 Bordeaux and #17 Off White.
Materials
- Yarn: Drops Paris – 100% cotton yarn (82 yds / 1.8 oz / 50 g per skein)
- 150 yds 37 Bordeaux (A)
- 50 yds 17 Off White (B)
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Easy: Single crochet and puff stitches in a repeating pattern.
Size
Approximately 12 inches / 30 cm square
Gauge
Rnds 1-10 of pattern = 6 inches / 15 cm square.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- ch = chain
- puff = puff stitch (see Special Stitch)
- rep = repeat
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side
- yo = yarn over
Special Stitch
Puff Stitch (puff): [Yo, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo and pull a loop up to height of current row] 3 times (7 loops on hook), yo and pull through all 7 loops on hook, ch 1 to close.
Because of the closing ch-1, each puff st will have 2 “V” shapes at the top. The first is from pulling through all 7 loops and is slightly off to the side. The 2nd is from the ch-1 and is directly above the puff. When working back into a puff st on following rnds, work into the ch-1 so that the puffs line up vertically.
Instructions
Scroll down for chart
Center
With A, ch 2.
Rnd 1: [Puff, ch 1] 4 times in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st in first puff. (4 puff sts, 4 ch-1 sps)
Color changes happen in the first sl st of the rnd. To change colors, drop the previous color and work the sl st using the new color as indicated.
Rnd 2: With B, sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch-2, sc) in same sp, ch 1, sk next puff, [(sc, ch-2, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next puff] around, join with sl st in first sc. (8 sc, 4 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps)
When working into a puff below a ch-1 sp, work over/around the ch-1 sp so that the ch is encapsulated within the stitch.
Rnd 3: With A, sl st in first ch-2 sp, ch 1, (puff, ch-1, puff) in same sp, sk next sc, puff in skipped puff below next ch-1 sp, sk next sc, [(puff, ch-1, puff) in next ch-2 sp, sk next sc, puff in skipped puff below next ch-1 sp, sk next sc] 3 times, join with sl st in first puff. (12 puffs, 4 ch-1 sps)
Repeating Pattern
When instructed to “sc in sp before next puff st”, insert your hook between the posts of the next puff st and the previous one as though there were a ch-1 sp between them even though there is not.
Rnd 4: With B, sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in same sp, ch 1, sk next puff, [sc in sp before next puff, ch 1, sk next puff] across to next ch-1 sp, *(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next puff, [sc in sp before next puff, ch 1, sk next puff] across to next ch-1 sp; rep from * twice more, join with sl st in first sc. (16 sc, 12 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 5: With A, sl st in first ch-2 sp, ch 1, (puff, ch-1, puff) in same sp, sk next sc, [puff in skipped puff below next ch-1 sp, sk next sc] across to next ch-2 sp, *(puff, ch-1, puff) in ch-2 sp, sk next sc, [puff in skipped puff below next ch-1 sp, sk next sc] across to next ch-2 sp; rep from * twice more, join with sl st in first puff. (20 puffs, 4 ch-1 sps)
Rnds 6-19: [Rep Rnds 4-5] 7 times. (76 puffs, 4 ch-1 sps)
To adjust size, work more or fewer repeats, ending after a repeat of Rnd 5.
Edging Rnd: Continuing with A, ch 1, sc in first puff, 3 sc in next ch-1 sp, *sc in next puff, [sc in sp before next puff, sc in next puff] to next ch-1 sp, 3 sc in ch-1 sp; rep from * twice more, [sc in next puff, sc in sp before next puff] to end, join with sl st in first sc. (160 sc)
Fasten off both colors. Weave in ends.
For best results, wash and block.
Chart
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Crochet Amigurumi Watering Can
Every little gardener needs a little watering can! This crochet amigurumi watering can is an adorable essential for a garden play set. Embellish it with flowers and add embroidery for a personal touch. With 2 strands of yarn held together, it’s quick and fun to make!
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CAL Central Toybox Crochet Along
This crochet amigurumi watering can is my first design for the 2025 Toybox Crochet Along (CAL) at CAL Central. The CAL is separated into 4 themes, starting with a garden theme.
Join in the fun on the Facebook Group. See the main post for the full schedule, other patterns, and giveaway information too!
King Cole Comfort Aran Yarn
I love King Cole Comfort Aran yarn for crochet amigurumi. It’s an acrylic and nylon blend yarn that creates a wonderfully soft, strong, smooth, and slightly glossy fabric. For this watering can, I used some skeins from my stash.
I chose #3328 Grey for the main color and #337 Denim to make the water, spout top, and flower embellishments. The watering can works in almost any main color. For the water, if you prefer a brighter blue, try #3590 Cornflower.
Materials
- Yarn: King Cole Comfort Aran – 60% acrylic, 40% nylon yarn (220 yds / 3.5 oz / 100g per skein)
- 280 yds 3328 Grey (A)
- 65 yds 337 Denim (B)
Note: For a brighter option, try 3590 Cornflower.
- Hook: Size J / 6 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
- Stitch Markers (2)
Project Level
Easy: Single crochet with yarn under instead of yarn over, increases, decreases, sewing pieces together.
Size
Approximately 12 inches wide x 7.5 inches tall
Gauge
With 2 strands of yarn held together: 13 yusc x 14 rnds = 4 inches / 10 cm
Water and Base should each measure approximately 4.5 inches x 4 inches
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- bpyusc = back post yarn under single crochet (see Special Stitches)
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet
- dec = decrease (see Special Stitches)
- inc = increase (see Special Stitches)
- rem = remain(s/ing)
- rep = repeat
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side
- yo = yarn over
- yu = yarn under (see Special Stitches)
- yusc = yarn under single crochet (see Special Stitches)
Special Stitches
Yarn Under (yu): Bring yarn under hook from back to front.
Yarn Under Single Crochet (yusc): Insert hook where indicated, yu and pull up a loop, yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Increase (inc): Yusc in back loop only of indicated st, yusc in both loops of same st. Inc counts as 2 yusc in stitch counts at end of rows/rnds. See this Almost Invisible Increase tutorial for a closer look.
Invisible Join: Remove working loop from hook. Insert hook from back to front through first st of rnd, place working loop back on hook and pull through from front to back. See this Joining Rounds tutorial for a closer look.
Decrease (dec): Insert hook in front loop only of next 2 sts together, yu and pull up a loop through both sts, yo and draw through both loops on hook.
This decrease is an alternative to a sc2tog. If preferred, you can work a normal sc2tog, replacing the first 2 yo with yu.
Back Post Yarn Under Single Crochet (bpyusc): Insert hook from back to front and to back again around post of indicated st, yu and draw up a loop, yo and draw through both loops on hook.
Notes
- Use 2 strands of yarn held together for all sections of pattern except Flowers.
- After weaving in tails, pull ends through stuffing and out again, pull taught and cut close to work so that end recedes after being cut and is hidden inside of work.
Instructions
Flowers (make 3)
With 1 strand of B, ch 2.
Rnd 1: [Sc, 3 dc] 5 times in 2nd ch from hook. Fasten off, leaving a 12″ / 30 cm tail for sewing. Pull tail through first sc to join. (5 sc, 15 dc)
Set Flowers aside.
Wind 25-30 yds of B into a separate ball so that you can use 2 strands together for remainder of pattern.
Water
Water is worked in turned rounds to keep it from twisting or skewing. Scroll down for chart.
With 2 strands of B held together and leaving an 18″ / 45 cm tail for sewing, ch 4.
Rnd 1 (RS): 2 yusc in 2nd ch from hook, yusc in next ch, 3 yusc in next ch, working on opposite side of ch, yusc in next ch, yusc in same ch as beg of rnd, invisible join in first st. (8 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, inc in first st, yusc in next st, inc in next 3 sts, yusc in next st, inc in last 2 sts, invisible join in first st. (14 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, inc in first st, yusc in next st, inc in next st, yusc in next 2 sts, [inc in next st, yusc in next st] 3 times, yusc in next st, inc in next st, yusc in last st, invisible join in first st. (20 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, turn, inc in first st, yusc in next 3 sts, [inc in next st, yusc in next 2 sts] 3 times, yusc in next st, [inc in next st, yusc in next 2 sts] twice, invisible join in first st. (26 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, turn, yusc in first st, [inc in next st, yusc in next 3 sts] twice, yusc in next st, [inc in next st, yusc in next 3 sts] 3 times, yusc in next st, inc in next st, yusc in last 2 sts, invisible join in first st. (32 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, turn, yusc in first st, inc in next st, yusc in next 5 sts, [inc in next st, yusc in next 4 sts] 3 times, yusc in next st, inc in next st, yusc in next 4 sts, inc in next st, yusc in last 3 sts, invisible join in first st. (38 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, turn, yusc in first 2 sts, inc in next st, yusc in next 5 sts, inc in next st, yusc in next 4 sts, place marker in yusc just made, yusc in next 2 sts, [inc in next st, yusc in next 5 sts] 3 times, yusc in next st, inc in next st, yusc in last 3 sts, invisible join in first st. (44 sts)
In image, red star shows marker placement.
Fasten off. Weave in ending tail. Pull long tail to RS of work. Set Water aside.
Water Chart
Spout
Spout, Handle, and Body are worked in continuous rounds. Do not turn or join unless instructed. Use a stitch marker or running stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each rnd.
With 2 strands of B held together and leaving a 12″ / 30 cm tail for sewing, ch 2.
Rnd 1 (RS): 6 yusc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st to end of rnd. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Inc in next st, yusc in next st] to end of rnd. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Yusc in next st, inc in next st, [yusc in next 2 sts, inc in next st] to last st, yusc in last st. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [Inc in next st, yusc in next 2 sts] to end of rnd, invisible join to first st. (32 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, bpyusc around each st to end of rnd.
Rnd 7: [Dec, yusc in next 2 sts] to end of rnd. (24 sts)
Rnd 8: [Dec, yusc in next st] to end of rnd. (16 sts)
Begin stuffing Spout and continue stuffing firmly as work progresses.
Rnd 9: Dec to end of rnd, change to 2 strands of A held together in last st. (8 sts)
Rnds 10-25: Yusc in each st to end of rnd.
Rnd 26: Yusc in next 2 sts, [inc in next st, yusc in next 2 sts] twice. (10 sts)
Rnd 27: Yusc in next 3 sts, [inc in next st, yusc in next 2 sts] twice, yusc in last st. (12 sts)
Rnd 28: Yusc in next 5 sts, inc in next st, yusc in next st, inc in next st, yusc in last 4 sts. (14 sts)
Rnd 29: Sl st in next 2 sts, yusc in next 2 sts, inc in next st, yusc in next st, inc in next st, place marker in 2nd yusc of inc just made, yusc in next st, inc in next st, yusc in next 3 sts, sl st in next 2 sts. Fasten off, leaving an 18″ / 45 cm tail for sewing. (13 yusc)
Marked st is center front of Spout.
With tapestry needle, bring beginning (color B) tail down through center of top of Spout and out at color change (rnd 9) directly in line with marked center front. Pull gently until top of Spout indents slightly and angles towards center front.
Insert needle close to where it came out, then bring it back out through center of top of Spout. Adjust position and tightness as desired, then weave in tail to secure.
Weave in all other ends except for long tail for sewing. Set Spout aside.
Spout Support
With 2 strands of A held together and leaving a 12″ / 30 cm tail for sewing, ch 9.
Row 1: 3 yusc in 2nd ch from hook, yusc in next 6 chs, 3 yusc in next ch, working in opposite side of chain, yusc in next 6 chs, invisible join to first st. Fasten off leaving a 12″ / 30 cm tail for sewing. (18 sts)
Set Spout Support aside.
Handle
With 2 strands of A held together and leaving a 12″ / 30 cm tail for sewing, ch 6, being careful not to twist, sl st in first ch to form a circle.
Rnd 1: Yusc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch to end of rnd. (6 sts)
Rnds 2-25: Yusc in each st around. Stuff Handle as work progresses, leaving 1″ / 2.5 cm unstuffed at top and bottom.
Rnd 26: Yusc in each st around, join with sl st in first st. Fasten off leaving a 12″ / 30 cm tail for sewing.
Set Handle aside.
Top
With 2 strands of A held together, ch 2.
Row 1: 3 yusc in 2nd ch from hook. (3 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, inc in each st across. (6 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, inc in first st, yusc in next st, [inc in next st, yusc in next st] across. (9 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, inc in first st, yusc in next 2 sts, [inc in next st, yusc in next 2 sts] across. (12 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, yusc in first st, inc in next st, [yusc in next 3 sts, inc in next st] twice, yusc in last 2 sts. (15 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, yusc in first st, inc in next st, [yusc in next 4 sts, inc in next st] twice, yusc in last 3 sts. (18 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, turn, yusc in first 2 sts, inc in next st, [yusc in next 5 sts, inc in next st] twice, yusc in last 3 sts, ch 1, working in sides of rows, yusc in each row across, join with sl st in turning ch-1. (35 sts)
Fasten off, leaving an 18″ / 45 cm tail for sewing. Set Top aside.
Base
With 2 strands of A held together, ch 4.
Rnds 1-6: Rep Rnds 1-6 of Water.
Rnd 7: Ch 1, turn, yusc in first 2 sts, [inc in next st, yusc in next 5 sts] twice, yusc in next st, [inc in next st, yusc in next 5 sts] 3 times, yusc in next st, inc in next st, yusc in last 3 sts, join with sl st in first st. (44 sts)
Do not fasten off.
Body
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, bpyusc around each st to end of rnd. (44 sts)
Rnds 2-19: Yusc in each st to end of rnd. Do not fasten off.
Weave in starting tail.
Assembly
Attach Water
Place Water RS up on top of last rnd of Body, lining up marked st on Water with next st on Body. This should line up the oval-shaped Water with the oval-shaped Base. If it does not, adjust as necessary so they line up.
Joining Rnd: Working through Water and Body together, yusc in each st to last 10 sts, stuff Body firmly, yusc in each remaining st to end of rnd. Fasten off (44 sts)
Indent Water and Base
Place long tail of water on tapestry needle. Insert needle down through center of Water and out at center of Base, compressing Body as needed to get needle through.
Pull gently to indent Water and Base. Insert needle close to where it came out and bring it back up through center of Water. Adjust tension as desired, then weave in end to secure.
Attach Top
With RS up, line up curved edge of Top with either curved edge of Water. This will become the front edge. Sew Top to Joining Rnd around curved edge, using a whipstitch seam and long tail. This will be a visible seam that resembles a welded metal join.
Attach Flowers
Sew flowers to side of Body as desired. Optionally, add additional embroidery or embellishments such as leaves or stems.
Attach Spout and Spout Support
Line up marked center front of bottom of Spout with center front bottom of Body, at Base. Using long tail, whipstitch bottom of Spout in place, pausing before completing the seam to finish stuffing Spout firmly.
Using long tails, sew one short end of Spout Support to center front top edge of Body. Sew opposite short end to top of Spout at color change (Row 9). Flatten Support along Spout as needed to adjust length of support, and sew in place.
Attach Handle
Flatten 1″ / 2.5 cm of each end of Handle. Fold flattened ends towards inside and sew to top and bottom of Body, on opposite side from Spout.
Top fold line should be at top edge of Body, with end of Handle pointing down and bottom fold line should be at bottom edge of Body, with end of Handle pointing up. This helps Handle to curve outwards.
Weave in any remaining ends and remove markers.
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Frostwind Crochet Hooded Cowl
Stay cozy in windy winter weather with the Frostwind Crochet Hooded Cowl! Fold the cowl up into the hood for a double layer of warmth where you need it most. With chunky yarn and an easy pattern, it works up fast, so you’ll be ready for frosty winter winds in no time!
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King Cole Chunky Tweed Yarn
I chose King Cole Chunky Tweed Yarn for this crochet hooded cowl pattern. It’s a lovely, soft blend of acrylic, wool, and viscose, with colorful tweedy bits sprinkled in.
Each colorway is named after a location in Scottland. Originally they were all named after islands, but more recent colors have been named after other places such as mountains and towns. Skye is one of my favorite shades of this yarn. It’s a deep, dark blue with bright, rainbow speckles.
CAL Central Winter Wonderland Crochet Along
This crochet hooded cowl is my design for the 2025 Winter Wonderland Crochet Along at CAL Central. Join in the fun on the Facebook Group. See the main post for the full schedule, other patterns, and giveaway information too!
Materials
- Yarn: 280 yds King Cole Chunky Tweed – 72% premium acrylic, 25% wool, 3% viscose yarn (150 yds / 3.5 oz / 100g per skein), shown in 1077 Skye
- Hook: Size J / 6 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
- Stitch Markers (2)
Project Level
Easy: Working in back loops, slip stitch seams, some decreases. Entire pattern is worked in rows.
Size
Adult – One size fits most.
Notes are included for adjusting size if desired. Any changes to size will affect yarn usage.
Cowl Circumference (A): 20.5 inches / 51.3 cm
Cowl Height (B): 9 inches / 22.5 cm
Hood Height (C): 11.5 inches / 28.8 cm
Gauge
11 hdc x 8 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm
Use pattern as gauge swatch. After row 7 of Cowl, work should measure 9 x 4 inches / 22.5 x10 cm.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- blo = back loop(s) only
- ch = chain
- dbl dec = paired hdc decreases (see Special Stitches)
- hdc = half double crochet
- rem = remain(s/ing)
- rep = repeat
- RS = right side(s)
- sc = single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side
- yo = yarn over
Special Stitches
Paired Half Double Crochet Decrease (dbl dec): Yo, [insert hook in next st, yo and pull up a loop] twice, yo and pull through all 4 loops on hook (first decrease made), insert hook in next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo, insert hook in next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through all 4 loops on hook. (2nd decrease made). Dbl dec counts as 2 sts.
This is a mirrored pair of modified hdc 2 together (hdc2tog) decreases. Each decrease eliminates 1 yo from the traditional hdc2tog. The first dec eliminates the 2nd yo, and the 2nd decrease eliminates the first yarn over. This reduces the bulk between the 2 decreases for a smoother and less visible double decrease. If you prefer, you can work 2 traditional hdc2tog decreases instead.
Instructions
Cowl
Ch 26.
Adjusting Size Note: Add or remove chains for a taller or shorter cowl section. Add or remove rows, ending after a RS row, to adjust cowl circumference.
Row 1 (WS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (25 hdc)
Rows 2-36: Ch 1 (does not count as a st throughout), turn, hdc in blo of each st across. Do not fasten off.
Fold Cowl in half by lining up bottom of Row 1 with top of Row 36 so that Row 1 is in front.
Cowl Seam (WS): Working through chs at bottom of Row 1 sts and blo of sts of Row 36 together, (ch 1, sl st) in each st across. Fasten off.
Mark Center Front: Fold Cowl flat at seam and place marker for center front in one side edge of row directly opposite seam (it does not matter which edge – this will become the top edge). This ensures seam will be at back of cowl, hidden inside hood.
Hood
With WS of Cowl facing, join yarn with sl st in marked side of row.
Because Cowl will be folded up inside of hood, WS of Cowl is RS of Hood.
Row 1 (RS of Hood): Working in sides of rows ch 1, 3 sc evenly spaced across first 2 rows, [3 sc evenly spaced across next 2 rows] around. Do not join. (54 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, hdc in each st across to last 2 sts, sk next st, hdc in last st. (52 hdc)
Row 3: Rep Row 2. (50 hdc)
Rows 4-20: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across.
Adjusting Size Note: To adjust depth of hood, work more or fewer rows. If making a much smaller size (e.g.: child or baby size), you may choose to skip Row 22 and/or Row 23.
Row 21: Ch 1, turn, hdc in next 23 sts, dbl dec (see Special Stitches), place marker in 2nd st of dbl dec, hdc in rem 23 sts. (48 sts)
Adjusting Size Note: On Row 21, if you adjusted stitch count for cowl and now have more or fewer stitches, hdc in half the stitches minus 2, dbl dec, hdc in rem sts across.
Row 22: Ch 1, turn, hdc to 3 sts before marked st, dbl dec twice, hdc in each rem st across. (44 sts)
Row 23: Rep Row 22. (40 sts)
Fold Row 23 of hood in half with RS tog.
Hood Seam: Working through both layers, turn, (ch 1, sc) in each st across. Fasten off.
Turn Hood RS out.
Hood Edging
With RS facing, join yarn with sl st at seam. Working into sides of rows around front opening of Hood, [(ch 1, sl st) 3 times evenly spaced across next 2 rows] around, ch 1, sl st in seam. Fasten off.
Finishing
Remove all markers. Wash and block. Weave in all ends.
Turn hood RS out (so Hood Seam is on inside) and fold Cowl up into Hood as shown in pictures.
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Snowdrift Crochet Capelet
Wrap yourself in the softness of freshly fallen snow, blown by the wind into curving, twisting, pillowy snowdrifts. The Snowdrift Crochet Capelet is the perfect partner for formalwear or for more laid-back looks.
It starts with a horizontal cable panel, and builds from there into a circular yoke. Finaly, pom pom border adds a fun, finishing touch.
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Bernat Fabwoolous Yarn
Yarnspirations provided the lovely Bernat Fabwoolous Yarn for this design. It’s a super soft and squishy, worsted weight blend of acrylic and superwash wool. It’s cozy without being heavy, and is smooth and luscious to work with.
I wanted a snowy white color (001 – Cream) for my capelet, but there are plenty of other lovely colors to choose from as well!
2025 Gift to Myself Crochet Along
This Snowdrift Crochet Capelet is my design for the 2025 Gift to Myself Crochet Along hosted by Underground Crafter. Follow along for 23 patterns throughout the month of January, plus great prizes too! See the main post for the full schedule, other patterns, and giveaway information.
Materials
- Yarn: 500 [575, 650, 700, 775] [825, 900, 1050, 1125] yds Bernat Fabwoolous – 80% HB acrylic, 20% 22 micron superwash wool yarn (306 yds / 6 oz / 170g per skein), shown in #001 Cream
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
- Stitch Marker(s) or scrap(s) of yarn (1 to mark beginning of rnds, 10-19 additional optional – to mark cable pattern sections)
Project Level
Intermediate: Crossed cables using post stitches of various heights, working in sides of rows, decreases, puff stitches.
Sizes
1 [2, 3, 4, 5] [6, 7, 8, 9]
To fit chest circumference: 30 [34, 38, 42, 46] [50, 54, 58, 62]” / 75 [85, 95, 105, 115] [125, 135, 145, 155] cm
Bottom Circumference (A): 16 [17.5, 19.25, 20.75, 22.5] inches / 40 [43.8, 48.1, 51.9, 56.3] cm
Neck Circumference Before Ribbing (B): 16 [16, 16, 20, 20] [20, 20, 24, 24] inches / 40 [40, 40, 50, 50] [50, 50, 60, 60] cm
Length Excluding Border (C): 14.5 [15, 15.5, 15.5, 16] [16, 16.5, 17.5, 18] inches / 36.3 [37.5, 38.8, 38.8, 40] [40, 41.3, 43.8, 45] cm
Gauge
10 dc x 5 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm
In cable pattern, 12 sts x 8 rows = 4 inches /10 cm.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- bpdc = back post double crochet (see Special Stitches)
- ch = chain
- cross = 3 stitch crossing cable (see Special Stitches)
- dc = double crochet
- dc2tog = double crochet next 2 stitches together
- fpdc = front post double crochet (see Special Stitches)
- fpdtr = front post double treble crochet (see Special Stitches)
- fpslst = front post slip stitch (see Special Stitches)
- fptr = front post treble crochet (see Special Stitches)
- hdc = half double crochet
- puff = puff stitch (see Special Stitches)
- rep = repeat
- rnd = round
- RS = right side(s)
- sc = single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side
- yo = yarn over
Special Stitches
Back post double crochet (bpdc): Yo, insert hook from back to front and to back again around post of indicated st, yo and pull up a lp, [yo and pull through 2 lps on hook] twice.
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Yo, insert hook from front to back and to front again around post of indicated st, yo and pull up a lp, [yo and pull through 2 lps on hook] twice.
Front Post Treble Crochet (fptr): Yo twice, insert hook from front to back and to front again around post of indicated st, yo and pull up a lp, [yo and pull through 2 lps on hook] 3 times.
Front Post Double Treble Crochet (fpdtr): Yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back and to front again around post of indicated st, yo and pull up a lp, [yo and pull through 2 lps on hook] 4 times.
Bpdc, fpdc, fptr, and fpdtr are all collectively referred to in the pattern as “post stitches”
Front Post Slip St (fpslst): Insert hook from front to back and to front again around posts of indicated sts, yo and pull a lp up and through lp on hook.
This stitch is used only for seaming the Body.
3-Stitch Crossing Cable (cross): Sk next 2 fpdtr 2 rows below, fpdc around 3rd fpdtr 2 rows below, working in front of fpdc just made, fptr around 2nd skipped fpdtr 2 rows below, working in front of fptr just made, fpdtr around first skipped fpdtr 2 rows below.
The cross works front post stitches around each of the next 3 fpdtr 2 rows below, but working around them in reverse order (3rd st first, then 2nd st, then first st) to make them cross over each other. Cross counts as 3 separate sts: 1 fpdc, 1 fptr, and 1 fpdtr.
Puff Stitch (puff): [Yo, insert hook in indicated ch, yo and pull up a lp] 7 times in same ch, yo and pull through all 15 lps on hook.
Instructions
Body
Ch 28.
Body is worked sideways, in rows. Every 8 rows counts as an “8-row section”, which will be referred to later in the pattern. You may find it helpful to mark both sides of the last row of each 8-row section with a stitch marker or scrap of yarn.
First 8-Row Section
Row 1 (WS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (27 hdc)
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st throughout), turn, hdc in first st, [sk next 2 sts, fpdtr around next 3 sts, skipping a total of 3 sts behind the 3 fpdtr just worked, hdc in same st as 2nd fpdtr just worked] 6 times, hdc in same st as last fpdtr just worked, hdc in last st. (9 hdc, 18 fpdtr)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (27 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first 3 sc, [Cross, sk 3 sc on current row behind cross, hdc in next sc on current row] 6 times. (9 hdc, 6 fpdc, 6 fptr, 6 fpdtr)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (27 sc)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first sc, [fpdtr around next 3 post sts 2 rows below, sk 3 sc on current row behind 3 fpdtr just made, hdc in next sc on current row] 6 times, hdc in last 2 sc. (9 hdc, 18 fpdtr)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (27 sc)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first 3 sc, [fpdtr around next 3 post sts 2 rows below, sk 3 sc on current row behind 3 fpdtr just made, hdc in next sc on current row] 6 times. (9 hdc, 18 fpdtr)
2nd 8-Row Section
Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (27 sc)
Row 10: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first sc, [fpdtr around next 3 post sts 2 rows below, sk 3 sc on current row behind 3 fpdtr just made, hdc in next sc on current row] 6 times, hdc in last 2 sc. (9 hdc, 18 fpdtr)
Rows 11-16: Rep rows 3-8.
Remaining 8-Row Sections
[Rep rows 9-16] 8 [9, 10, 11, 12] [13, 14, 16, 17] times more. Do not fasten off.
Body Chart
Seam
Fold Body in half with RS together and lining up first and last row.
Seaming Row: Continuing with working yarn and working through both layers, (ch 1, fpslst) (see Pattern Notes) around each st across. Do not fasten off.
Turn work RS out, being careful not to tangle working yarn around work.
Yoke
Yoke is worked in continuous rnds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark first st of rnd and move marker up with each rnd.
Setup Rnd 1 (RS): Continuing along closest side edge of Cable Section and working into sides of rows, 10 sc evenly spaced across each 8-row section. (100 [110, 120, 130, 140] [150, 160, 180, 190] sc)
Sizes 1-4 Only
Setup rnd 2: Sc in each st around.
All Sizes
Rnd 1: Hdc in first st, dc in next 7 [8, 9, 10, 11] [12, 13, 15, 16] sts, dc2tog, [dc in next 8 [9, 10, 11, 12] [13, 14, 16, 17] sts, dc2tog] 9 times. (90 [100, 110, 120, 130] [140, 150, 170, 180] sts)
Size 9 only
Rnd 2: Dc in next 8 sts, dc2tog, [dc in next 16 sts, dc2tog] 9 times, dc in last 8 sts. (170 sts)
Rnd 3: Dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog, [dc in next 15 sts, dc2tog] 9 times, dc in last 10 sts. (160 sts)
Rnd 4: [Dc2tog, dc in next 14 sts] 10 times. (150 sts)
Rnd 5: Dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog, [dc in next 13 sts, dc2tog] 9 times, dc in last 7 sts. (140 sts)
Rnd 6: [Dc in next 12 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (130 sc)
Rnd 7: Dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog, [dc in next 11 sts, dc2tog] 9 times, dc in last 6 sts. (120 sts)
Rnd 8: [Dc in next 10 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (110 sc)
Rnd 9: Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog, [dc in next 9 sts, dc2tog] 9 times, dc in last 5 sts. (100 sts)
Rnd 10: [Dc in next 8 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (90 sc)
Rnd 11: Dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog, [dc in next 7 sts, dc2tog] 9 times, dc in last 4 sts. (80 sts)
Rnd 12: [Dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (70 sc)
Rnd 13: Dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, [dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog] 9 times, dc in last 3 sts. (60 sts)
Size 8 only
Rnds 2-12: Work as for Rnds 3-13 of Size 9. (60 sts)
Size 7 only
Rnds 2-10: Work as for Rnds 5-13 of Size 9. (60 sts)
Rnd 11: [Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (50 sts)
Size 6 only
Rnds 2-9: Work as for Rnds 6-13 of Size 9. (60 sts)
Rnd 10: [Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (50 sts)
Size 5 only
Rnds 2-8: Work as for Rnds 7-13 of Size 9. (60 sts)
Rnd 9: [Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (50 sts)
Size 4 only
Rnds 2-7: Work as for Rnds 8-13 of Size 9. (60 sts)
Rnd 8: [Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (50 sts)
Size 3 only
Rnds 2-6: Work as for Rnds 8-13 of Size 9. (60 sts)
Rnd 7: [Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (50 sts)
Rnd 8: [Dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (40 sts)
Size 2 only
Rnds 2-5: Work as for Rnds 9-13 of Size 9. (60 sts)
Rnd 6: [Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (50 sts)
Rnd 7: [Dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (40 sts)
Size 1 only
Rnds 2-5: Work as for Rnds 10-13 of Size 9. (60 sts)
Rnd 6: [Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (50 sts)
Rnd 7: [Dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog] 10 times. (40 sts)
All Sizes
To finish working in continuous rnds, sc in next st, sl st in next st. Do not fasten off.
Collar
Rows 1-4: Ch 2 (counts as bphdc throughout), fpdc around next st, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] around, join with sl st in first st.
Fasten off.
Hem
With RS facing and working into sides of rows around bottom edge of Cable Section, join yarn with sl st in seam.
Edging Rnd (RS): *Working evenly across next 8-row section, (sl st, ch 1) in each of first 3 rows, (sl st, ch 3) in next row, (sl st, ch 1) in each of next 3 rows, (sl st, ch 3) in next row; rep from * in each 8-row section around, sl st in same row as first sl st of rnd. (60 [66, 72, 78, 84] [90, 96, 108, 114] ch-1 sps, 20 [22, 24, 26, 28] [30, 32, 36, 38] ch-3 sps).
For optional Snowball Border Rnd, to work a sl st into the ch-6 sp just made, turn and sl st into the sp (not into a specific ch), then turn back to continue the rnd.
Snowball Border Rnd (optional): Turn, sl st in last ch-3 sp of Edging Rnd, turn to RS again. Ch 9 (counts as ch-6 sp and 3 chs for snowball), [puff in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch (snowball made), ch 6, sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sl st in ch-6 sp just made (see note below), ch 7] around until a sl st has been worked into each ch-3 sp, puff in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, ch 4, sl st in beginning ch-6 sp of this rnd, ch 1, sl st in first ch-3 sp of Edging Rnd. (20 [22, 24, 26, 28] [30, 32, 36, 38] snowballs)
Fasten off.
Hem Chart
Finishing
Wash and block gently, pinning snowballs out to form triangular points. Weave in all ends.
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