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Add lovely leaves to your fall decor with this crochet eastern cottonwood leaf pattern! Make leaves of all different sizes and textures by switching up your yarn and hook.
This cottonwood leaf pattern will work with almost any yarn or thread. Yarns that vary in thickness (i.e. thick-and-thin yarns) may affect the final shape and look of the leaf.
Use a hook that gives you a medium to firm gauge with the yarn or thread you choose. The size of your leaf and the yardage needed will vary depending on your yarn and hook choices.
Fall Leaf Collection
This pattern is part of what will soon be a collection of fall leaf crochet patterns. Once I have several leaf patterns published, I plan to put them together into a larger project and turn that into an e-book. It may be next fall before that’s completed, but when it is I will link it here! Meanwhile, you may enjoy these other leaf patterns:
There are eastern cottonwood trees all over my neighborhood. The spade-shaped leaves turn a lovely, bright yellow in the fall, before fading to brown.
Cottonwood leaves have long, slender stems that are flat instead of rounded. These flat stems allow the broad leaves to flutter and dance in the breeze.
Eastern Cottonwood Leaf Video Tutorial
Need a little help with this pattern? Check out the video tutorial!
Yarn: Any yarn of your choice. Samples shown used 10-12 yds of worsted weight, cotton yarn.
Hook: Hook size that gives a medium to firm gauge with your chosen yarn. Samples shown with size H (5mm) crochet hook.
Notions:
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Intermediate: Basic stitches in rows and rounds, with some shaping.
Size / Gauge
Exact gauge is not important. Size, gauge, and yardage needed will vary depending on yarn/hook choices. Sample shown is approximately 3.75″ long, not including stem, and 4″ wide at widest point.
Ch 1 or ch 2 at the beginning of a row or rnd does not count as a st or sp unless otherwise indicated.
Rnd 1: Ch 3, (sc, ch 1, dc, 2 hdc, dc, ch 1, dc, 2 hdc, dc) in 3rd ch from hook (2 skipped chs count as starting ch-1 sp), join with sl st in starting ch-1 sp. (1 sc, 4 hdc, 4 dc, 3 ch-1 sps)
Row 2: Turn, sl st in first dc, ch 2 (does not count as a st or sp), dc in same st, (dc, hdc) in next st, hdc in each of next 2 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp, hdc in each of next 2 sts, (hdc, dc) in next st, dc in next st, leaving last (ch 1 sp, sc, and ch-1 sp) unworked. (6 hdc, 6 dc, 1 ch-1 sp)
The unworked sc at the end is the bottom center st of the leaf and will be referred to for the bottom edging. You may find it helpful to mark it with a stitch marker so you can find it more easily later.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, (sc, hdc) in first st, sc in next st, ch 1, dc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 2 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp, hdc in each of next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st, dc in next st, ch 1, sc in next st, (hdc, sc) in last st. (4 sc, 10 hdc, 4 dc, 3 ch-1 sps)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, hdc in each of next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts, ch 1, (dc, ch 1 dc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in each of next 2 sts, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 2 sts, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, sl st in next sc, sc in next hdc, leaving last sc unworked. (6 sc, 10 hdc, 2 dc, 6 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 5 – Edging and Stem:
Top edging: Ch 3, turn, sl st in first st, sk next sl st, sl st in next ch-1 sp, [ch 3, sl st in next st] twice, [ch 2, sl st in next st] twice, [ch 1, sl st in next st] 3 times, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, sl st in next st, ch 1, hdc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sl st in top of hdc just made, ch 1, sl st in next st, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, [sl st in next st, ch 1] 3 times, [sl st in next st, ch 2] twice, [sl st in next st, ch 3] twice, sl st in next ch-1 sp, sk next sl st, (sl st, ch 3, sl st) in last st, ch 1, sl st in first ch-1 sp of rnd 4;
Bottom left edging: Continuing along bottom of leaf, [ch 1, sl st] 4 times evenly across to bottom center st (last sl st should be in the ch-1 sp from rnd 1 just before bottom center st);
Stem: Ch 13, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, sk bottom center st, sl st in next ch-1 sp from rnd 1;
Bottom right edging: [Ch 1, sl st] 3 times evenly across bottom edge, ch 1, sl st in skipped sc from rnd 3, ch 1, join with sl st in same sc as beginning of rnd (last sc from rnd 4)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Eastern Cottonwood Leaf Chart
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Crochet Sugar Maple Leaf Pattern
Welcome fall with this iconic, crochet sugar maple leaf pattern! Make leaves of all different sizes and textures by switching up your yarn and hook.
This sugar maple leaf pattern will work with almost any yarn or thread. Yarns that vary in thickness (i.e. thick-and-thin yarns) may affect the final shape and look of the leaf.
Use a hook that gives you a medium to firm gauge with the yarn or thread you choose. The size of your leaf and the yardage needed will vary depending on your yarn and hook choices.
Fall Leaf Collection
This pattern is part of what will soon be a collection of fall leaf crochet patterns. Once I have several leaf patterns published, I plan to put them together into a larger project and turn that into an e-book. It may be next fall before that’s completed, but when it is I will link it here!
About Sugar Maple Leaves
When I think of maple leaves, the first image that pops in my head is the sugar maple. Of the many types of maple trees, sugar maples have the sweetest sap for maple syrup.
Sugar maple leaves turn all different shades of yellow, orange and red in the fall. I particularly like the green centers and red edges when they’re just beginning to turn.
You can get a similar look by changing colors! In this sample, I used green for rnds 1 & 2, yellow for rnd 3, and orange for rnd 4 and the stem.
Sugar Maple Leaf Video Tutorial
Need a little help with the pattern? Follow along with the step-by-step, video tutorial!
Yarn: Any yarn of your choice. Samples shown used 10-12 yds of worsted weight yarn.
Hook: Hook size that gives a medium to firm gauge with your chosen yarn. Samples shown with size H (5mm) crochet hook.
Notions:
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Intermediate: Some complicated construction / shaping.
Size / Gauge
Exact gauge is not important. Size, gauge, and yardage needed will vary depending on yarn/hook choices. Samples shown are approximately 5″ long from top point to bottom of stem, and 5″ wide at widest point.
Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st in first st. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Each lobe is worked entirely into one sc from Rnd 1 as follows.
1st lobe: Ch 1, sc in 1st sc from Rnd 1, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch across, sc in same 1st sc from Rnd 1. (5 sc, 1 ch-2 sp)
2nd lobe: Sc in 2nd sc from Rnd 1, ch 8, sc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch across, hdc in same 2nd sc from Rnd 1. (7 sc, 1 hdc, 1 ch-2 sp)
3rd lobe: hdc in 3rd sc from Rnd 1, ch 9, sc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch across, hdc in same 3rd sc from Rnd 1. (7 sc, 2 hdc, 1 ch-2 sp)
4th lobe: Hdc in 4th sc from Rnd 1, ch 8, sc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch across, sc in same 4th sc from Rnd 1. (7 sc, 1 hdc, 1 ch-2 sp)
5th lobe: Sc in 5th sc from Rnd 1, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch across, sc in same 5th sc from Rnd 1. (5 sc, 1 ch-2 sp)
Sl st in last sc from Rnd 1.
Rnd 3: Work around each lobe, with decreases between lobes to pull them together, as follows:
1st lobe: Ch 1, sc in first sc, working into bottom of chs: 2 sc in next ch, sc in each of next 2 chs; (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each of next 2 sc, sk next sc. (7 sc, 2 hdc, 1 ch-2 sp)
Sc2tog in last sc from 1st lobe and first sc from 2nd lobe. (1 st)
2nd lobe: Working into bottom of chs: sk first ch, sc in each of next 3 chs, (hdc, sc) in next ch, hdc in next ch; (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-2 sp, hdc in next sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, sk next sc. (8 sc, 3 hdc, 2 dc, 1 ch-2 sp)
Sc2tog in last hdc from 2nd lobe and first hdc from 3rd lobe. (1 dec)
3rd lobe: Working into bottom of chs: sk first ch, sc in each of next 4 chs, (hdc, sc) in next ch, dc in next ch; (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in next sc, (sc, hdc) in next sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, sk next sc. (10 sc, 2 hdc, 4 dc, 1 ch-2 sp)
Sc2tog in last hdc from 3rd lobe and first hdc from 4th lobe. (1 st)
4th lobe: Working into bottom of chs: sk first ch, sc in each of next 4 chs, hdc in next ch; (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-2 sp, hdc in next sc, (sc, hdc) in next sc, sc in each of next 3 sc, sk next sc. (8 sc, 3 hdc, 2 dc, 1 ch-2 sp)
Sc2tog in last sc from 3rd lobe and first sc from 4th lobe. (1 st)
5th lobe: Working into bottom of chs: sk next ch, sc in each of next 2 chs; (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last sc. (7 sc, 2 hdc, 1 ch-2 sp)
Ch 1, sl st in starting ch-1 of rnd.
Rnd 4 – Edging:Work around each lobe, with decreases between lobes to pull them together, as follows:
1st lobe: [Ch 1, sl st in next st] across to ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sl st, ch 3, sl st) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sl st in next st] twice.
Sc3tog in (last sc from 1st lobe, dec between 1st and 2nd lobes, and first sc of 2nd lobe).
2nd lobe: [Sl st in next st, ch 1] twice, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in next hdc, [ch 1, sl st in next st] across to ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sl st, ch 3, sl st) in ch-2 sp, ch 1, sl st in next dc, ch 1, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in next hdc, ch 1, sc3tog in next 3 sts.
Sc3tog in (last sc from 2nd lobe, dec between 2nd and 3rd lobes, and first sc of 3rd lobe).
3rd lobe: Sc3tog in next 3 sts, ch 1, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in next hdc, [ch 1, sl st in next st] across to ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sl st, ch 3, sl st) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sl st in next st] 3 times, ch 1, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in next hdc, ch 1, sc3tog in next 3 sts.
Sc3tog in (last sc from 3rd lobe, dec between 3rd and 4th lobes, and first sc of 4th lobe).
4th lobe: Sc3tog in next 3 sts, ch 1, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in next hdc, ch 1, sl st in next st, ch 1, (sl st, ch 3, sl st) in next ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sl st in next st] 3 times, ch 1, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in next hdc, [ch 1, sl st in next st] twice.
Sc3tog in (last sc from 4th lobe, dec between 4th and 5th lobes, and first sc of 5th lobe).
5th lobe: [Sl st in next st, ch 1] twice, (sl st, ch 3, sl st) in next ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sl st in next st] around, ch 1, sl st in first ch of rnd.
Row 5 – Stem: Ch 6, sl st in each ch across, sl st in joining sl st from rnd 4 (base of leaf).
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Sugar Maple Leaf Chart
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Crochet Elm Leaf Pattern
Add a leaf to any project with this crochet elm leaf pattern! Make leaves of all different sizes and textures by switching up your yarn and hook.
This simple elm leaf pattern will work with almost any yarn or thread. Yarns that vary in thickness (i.e. thick-and-thin yarns) may affect the final shape and look of the leaf.
Use a hook that gives you a medium to firm gauge with the yarn or thread you choose. The size of your leaf and the yardage needed will vary depending on your yarn and hook choices.
Fall Leaf Collection
This is the first in what I hope will soon be a collection of fall leaf crochet patterns. Once I have several leaf patterns created, I plan to put them together into a larger project and turn that into a e-book. It may be next fall before that’s completed, but when it is I will link it here!
About Elm Leaves
Finding a sample leaf to photograph turned out to be quite the education in dendrology! This is an earlier version of the pattern, next to the first “elm” leaf I picked up.
A quick email to our local arboretum taught me that this isn’t an elm at all. It’s a hackberry leaf!
Notice the spiderweb-like veins branching off from each other? It seems elms have straight veins, which all branch from a central ridge. Also, elm leaves are more asymmetrical at the bottom. Finally, elm leaves have double-serrated edges (the teeth have teeth), whereas the edges of a hackberry leaf are just serrated.
With this newfound knowledge, my buddy Diamond helped me find just the perfect (actual) elm leaf on a long walk in a local forest preserve.
Elm Leaf Video Tutorial
Need a little help with the pattern? Follow along with the step-by-step, video tutorial!
Yarn: Any yarn of your choice. Sample shown used 5 yds of worsted weight, cotton yarn.
Hook: Hook size that gives a medium to firm gauge with your chosen yarn. Sample shown with size H (5mm) crochet hook.
Notions:
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Easy: Basic stitches worked in rows around both sides of chain.
Size / Gauge
Exact gauge is not important. Size, gauge, and yardage needed will vary depending on yarn/hook choices. Sample shown is approximately 4″ long x 2″ wide.
Row 1: Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in each of next 6 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in each of next 2 chs, (sc, ch 1, sc) in last ch, working in opposite side of foundation ch, hdc in next ch, dc in each of next 7 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, sl st in next ch, sk last 2 chs. (6 sc, 4 hdc, 13 dc)
Row 2 (RS): Turn, sl st in first sc, sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, hdc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts, sl st in each of next 2 sts, ch 3, sl st in ch-1 sp, sl st in each of next 2 sts, sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, hdc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in each of last 2 sts. (16 sc, 4 hdc)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Elm Leaf Chart
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I hope you enjoyed this crochet elm leaf pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format offsets the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Primrose Stitch Crochet Square
Grow a garden ringed with the delicate blossoms of this primrose stitch crochet square! The light and lacy Primrose Garden Square is equally delightful in one color or many. Make the 6-inch square or adjust the size with the included sizing notes. How will your Primrose Garden grow?
The Primrose Garden Square is my pattern for the 2023 Melange Blanket Crochet Along hosted by Underground Crafter. Check out all the other lovely square that make up this fun blanket. While you’re there, scroll down and enter the giveaway too!
Choose Your Colors!
Using a variety of yarn from my stash, I made three versions of this square to show what it looks like in different color combinations. Here’s how it looks in all one color. Skip the last round for a slightly scalloped look to the edge!
For this 2-color version, I alternated between purple for odd-numbered rounds and green for even-numbered rounds through round 7. Then I did the final round in purple.
Finally, I made this version with 5 colors. For rounds 1, 3, and 5, I used three different shades of pink, from darkest to lightest. I still used green for rounds 2, 4, and 6, I used green. Then, for the final 2 rounds, I went back to the first, darkest shade of pink.
Primrose Garden Square Video Tutorial
Need a little help with the pattern? Follow along step by step with the full video tutorial!
Rnd 1: Ch 7, 3 dc in 7th ch from hook (skipped chs count as dc and ch-3 sp), ch 3, [3 dc in same ch, ch 3] twice, 2 dc in same ch, join with sl st to first dc (4th ch of starting ch-7), sl st in first ch-3 sp of this rnd. (12 dc, 4 ch-3 sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in first ch-3 sp, sk next dc, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next dc, sk next dc, [(sc, ch 3, sc) in next ch-3 sp, sk next dc, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next dc, sk next dc] 3 times, join with sl st to first sc, sl st in first ch-3 sp of this rnd. (16 sc, 4 ch-2 sps, 4 ch-3 sps)
If you prefer, you can start rnds 3 & 5 with a chainless starting double crochet (csdc). Replace the ch 6 with “csdc, ch 3”. When you join at the end of the rnd, join into the csdc.
Rnd 3: Skipping all sts, ch 6 (counts as dc and ch-3 sp), 3 dc in first ch-3 sp, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, [(3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp] 3 times, 2 dc in starting ch-3 sp, join with sl st to first dc (3rd ch of starting ch-6), sl st in first ch-3 sp of this rnd. (36 dc, 4 ch-3 sps)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in first ch-3 sp, [sk next dc, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next dc, sk next dc] across to next ch-3 sp, *(sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-3 sp, [sk next dc, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next dc, sk next dc] across to next ch-3 sp, repeat from * twice more, join with sl st to first sc, sl st in first ch-3 sp of this rnd. (32 sc, 12 ch-2 sps, 4 ch-3 sps)
For a smaller square, skip rnds 5-6 and continue with rnd 7.
Rnd 5: Skipping all sts, ch 6 (counts as dc and ch-3 sp), 3 dc in first ch-3 sp, [3 dc in next ch-2 sp] across to next ch-3 sp, *(3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp, [3 dc in next ch-2 sp] across to next ch-3 sp, repeat from * twice more, 2 dc in starting ch-3 sp, join with sl st to first dc (3rd ch of starting ch-6), sl st in first ch-3 sp of this rnd. (60 dc, 4 ch-3 sps)
For a larger square, repeat rnds 5-6 to desired size, ending after a repeat of rnd 6, then continue to rnd 7.
Rnd 7: Skipping all sts, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in first ch-3 sp, [3 sc in next ch-2 sp] across to next ch-3 sp, *(2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in next ch-3 sp, [3 sc in next ch-2 sp] across to next ch-3 sp, repeat from * twice more, sc in starting ch-3 sp, join with sl st to first sc, sl st in first ch-3 sp of this rnd. (76 sc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Measure and adjust for gauge if needed: To make your square slightly smaller, skip rnd 8. To make your square slightly larger, after rnd 8, sl st in first ch-3 sp and then repeat rnd 8.
Rnd 8: Ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in first ch-2 sp, sc in each st across to next ch-2 sp, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-2 sp, sc in each st across to next ch-2 sp] 3 times, join with sl st in first st. (84 sc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Primrose Garden Square Chart
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Halloween Cauldron Crochet Pattern
Stir up some Halloween fun with this cauldron crochet pattern! Get creative with overflowing stuffing, or crochet the optional cover. What’s brewing in your cauldron?
This crochet cauldron pattern is the first pattern in the 2023 Halloween Crochet Along at CAL Central. Join in the fun on the Facebook Group. See the main post for the full schedule, other patterns, and giveaway information too!
Beyond Halloween
This charming cauldron isn’t just for Halloween. It makes a lovely addition to an equinox or Samhain altar. Instead of stuffing, line the inside with a bit of paper or foil, then fill it with herbs, dried berries or pot pourri. For Samhain, use it to hold small mementos of those you are remembering.
You can also fill your cauldron with small candies, jewelry, or trinkets. For St. Patrick’s Day, try gold beads to turn your cauldron into a pot of gold. With the optional cover, it’s a fun pincushion too!
Watch the Video Tutorial!
Need a little help with the pattern? Follow along step by step with the full video tutorial!
Hook: Size H (5mm) crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
Notions:
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Fiberfill, wool roving, or other material to fill the cauldron
12-inch pipe cleaner
Project Level
Intermediate: Single crochet worked in the round with increases, decreases, and bobbles. Some tricky construction for the handles, but an easier option is also included.
Size
3.25 inches tall x 3.25 inches wide, not including handles.
Bobble (bo): [Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook] 7 times, yo and pull through all 8 loops on hook. Push bobble to right side of fabric. (See bobble tutorial here)
Decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. This is an alternative to a single crochet 2-together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: [Sc in next st, inc in next st] around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: [Inc in next st, sc in next st, bo in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times. (21 sc, 3 bo)
Rnd 5: [Inc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts] around. (30 sc)
Rnd 6: Sc in each of next 2 sts, inc in next st, [sc in each of next 4 sts, inc in next st] around to last 2 sts, sc in each of last 2 sts. (36 sc)
Rnds 7-9: Sc in each st around. (36 sc)
Rnd 10: [Dec, sc in each of next 4 sts] around. (30 sts)
Rnd 11: Sc in each st around (30 sts)
For an easier version with separate (sewn on) handles, or for no side handles, scroll down for aternative Rnd 12
Rnd 12: Sc in each of next 4 sts, [ch 4, turn, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st in next ch, (handle made) sl st in last sc worked before handle.
Turn, keeping the handle on the RS of the work, sc in each of next 2 sts, remove working loop from hook, insert hook from bottom to top through free end of handle, put working loop back on hook and pull through handle].
Sc in each of next 13 sts, repeat between [ ], sc in each of last 9 sts. (30 sc, 2 handles)
Alternative Rnd 12: Sc in each st around. (30 sc)
In rnd 13, skip the handles only. Be sure to work into the 2 sc behind each handle.
Rnd 13: Skipping handles, sc in each st around. (30 sc)
Rnd 14: [Dec, sc in each of next 3 sts] around. (24 sts)
Rnd 15: [Inc, sc in each of next 3 sts] around, join with sl st or invisible join in first st. (30 sts)
Weave in ends.
Separate handles (Optional)
Use this option if you used Alternative Rnd 12 and want to make handles separately and sew them on.
Handle (make 2): Ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st in last ch, fasten off, leaving an 8-inch tail for sewing. (1 sc, 2 sl sts)
Use tails to sew handles to opposite sides of cauldron, along rnd 12. Weave in ends.
Cover (Optional)
Use this option if you prefer to have a solid cover over the stuffing.
Rnds 1-3: Repeat rnds 1-3 of Cauldron.
Rnd 4: Sc in next st, [Inc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts] around to last 2 sts, inc in next st, sc in last st, join with sl st or invisible join in first st. (24 sc)
Fasten off.
Cut a length of yarn the same color as the cauldron for seaming. Attach this yarn to the cauldron by weaving in the end, close to any stitch on rnd 14 (the narrowest rnd at the top).
Stuff cauldron about 2/3 full.
Place cover inside cauldron, on top of stuffing, so that it lines up with rnd 14
Sew cover in place along rnd 14 of cauldron as follows, or using your preferred seaming technique.
For each stitch, sew from top to bottom through the stitch on the cover, bringing the needle back out through the same hole on the cauldron that it came in from.
Then sew a horizontal stitch on the outside of the cauldron, bringing the needle back in through the next stitch on the cauldron without sewing through the cover.
Continue in this manner for all remaining stitches, adding additional stuffing before finishing the seam if needed.
Weave in any remaining ends.
Finishing
Stuffing: If you did not work the optional cover, stuff cauldron generously with stuffing material of your choice. Add beads, sequins, glitter, or other decorations to the stuffing as desired.
Top handle: Stick one end of the pipe cleaner through the side of the cauldron (either from inside to outside or outside to inside, just be consistent) at approximately rnd 14.
Fold about an inch up at the end and twist the end around the remaining pipe cleaner to secure. Repeat with the other end on the opposite side of the cauldron, trimming away any excess pipe cleaner if necessary.
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I hope you enjoyed this Halloween cauldron crochet pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format offsets the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Holiday Dog Bandana Crochet Pattern
Even the pickiest of pups will be ready to party in this sparkly, holiday dog bandana! Slide it onto a collar for easy wear. With 6 sizes to choose from, find the perfect fit for all your furry friends.
The Holiday Sparkle Dog Bandana is my pattern for the 2023 Christmas in July Make Along hosted by Underground Crafter. Check out the full schedule of crochet, knitting, and even sewing patterns in the main MAL post. While you’re there, be sure to scroll down and enter the giveaway too!
Donate to Shelters and Rescues
Shelter dogs deserve some sparkle too. Consider donating a few of these quick and easy bandanas to a shelter or rescue near you! Cute accessories like these bandanas make fantastic photos, which help these dogs find their forever homes.
King Cole Glitz DK Yarn
When I closed my yarn store, I had some of this lovely, King Cole Glitz DK yarn left over. It’s a super soft, acrylic yarn with a sparkly thread running through it. The vibrant, jewel-tone colors make it a great choice for all sorts of holiday projects.
I used the colors 3504 Flame, 3499 Sapphire and 3307 Christmas Green as the main colors, with 483 Diamond White as the contrasting accent color.
Choose a Size by the Collar
To choose the right size for your dog, measure the length of their collar. The bandana needs to be at least 3 inches shorter than the collar in order to fit nicely without bunching up.
If your dog’s collar is wider than the pattern for your chosen size, don’t worry! The casing is just a flat rectangle folded in half. You can make it as wide as you need it to be by adding extra rows.
See the Video Tutorial
Grab your pattern and follow along with the Holiday Sparkle Dog Bandana Video Tutorial! It walks you step by step through making the bandana, plus choosing a size and reading the chart.
[Yo, insert hook in indicated ch-2 sp and pull up a loop] twice, yo and pull through all 5 loops on hook.
Front Post Puff Stitch (fp puff):
[Yo, insert hook from front to back to front again around indicated st and pull up a loop] twice, yo and pull through all 5 loops on hook.
Fp puff counts as a puff in stitch counts at end of row.
Instructions
Triangle
Scroll down for chart of this section.
With MC, ch 2
Row 1 (WS): (Sc, ch 2, sc) in 2nd ch from hook. (2 sc, 1 ch-2 sp)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, ch 1, sc in last st. (4 sc, 2 ch-1 sps, 1 ch-2 sp)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next sc] across to ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next ch-1 sp] across to last st, ch 1, sc in last st. (6 sc, 4 ch-1 sps, 1 ch-2 sp)
Repeat row 3 3 [3, 7, 15, 23, 29] times more. Change to CC at end of last row. (12 [12, 20, 36, 52, 64] sc, 10 [10, 18, 34, 50, 62] ch-1 sps, 1 ch-2 sp)
Sizes [S, M, L, XL, XXL] only:
With CC, repeat row 3 twice, change to MC at end of last row. ([16, 24, 40, 56, 68] sc, [14, 22, 38, 54, 66] ch-1 sps, 1 ch-2 sp)
With MC, repeat row 3 4 times, change to CC at end of last row. ([24, 32, 48, 64, 76] sc, [22, 30, 46, 62, 74] ch-1 sps, 1 ch-2 sp)
All Sizes
With CC, repeat row 3 twice, change to MC at end of last row. (16 [28, 36, 52, 68, 80] sc, 14 [26, 34, 50, 66, 78] ch-1 sps, 1 ch-2 sp)
With MC, repeat row 3 twice, change to CC at end of last row. (20 [32, 40, 56, 72, 84] sc, 18 [30, 38, 54, 70, 82] ch-1 sps, 1 ch-2 sp)
With CC, repeat row 3 once, do not change colors. (22 [34, 42, 58, 74, 86] sc, 20 [32, 40, 56, 72, 84] ch-1 sps, 1 ch-2 sp)
Edging Row (RS): Sk first st, sl st in first ch-1 sp, fp puff around next st, [ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, fp puff around next st] across to ch-2 sp, ch 1, puff in ch-2 sp, ch 1, fp puff around next st, [ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, fp puff around next st] across to last ch-1 sp, sl st in last ch-1 sp, leave last st unworked, change to MC, fasten off CC. (21 [33, 41, 57, 73, 85] puffs, 20 [32, 40, 56, 72, 84] ch-1 sps)
Triangle Section Chart
Click image to expand
Casing
Row 1 (RS): Do not turn. With MC and working in sides of rows, 23 [34, 41, 55, 70, 82] sc evenly spaced across top of triangle. (23 [34, 41, 55, 70, 82] sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across.
Repeat row 2 11 [11, 13, 13, 16, 16] times more.
To adjust casing size, repeat row 2 until casing measures 2 times the width of your collar + 1.5 inches
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Fold casing in half, with top edge at wrong side of work. Sew top edge of casing to top of triangle with a whipstitch.
Finishing
Weave in all ends.
Wash and block.
Insert collar into casing.
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I hope you enjoyed this holiday dog bandana pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Crochet Butterfly Sarong
Cover up at the pool with this crochet butterfly sarong! Open and airy mesh with a lacy butterfly is the perfect way to add a bit of flair to your swimwear.
I tried to reach out to both Dua Lipa’s social media team and the crocheter for confirmation that they used my pattern, but never received a response from either. Still, it’s quite exciting!
Basic filet crochet is a mesh background with solid blocks that act like pixels to create an image. It’s very easy to compare, pixel by pixel, and see where the crocheter made a few changes.
The crocheter split the butterfly in half, basically by removing the borders on the side and shifting the beginning of the row. They also repeated row 22, and skipped the last few rows of mesh and border at the top.
I liked this idea, so I decided to write up my version of turning this butterfly into a sarong. It includes 9 different sizes from xs to 5x!
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton Yarn
Lion Brand gave me the 24/7 Cotton yarn I used for this pattern. It’s a mercerized cotton, so it has a lovely sheen to it. I chose color #158R Goldenrod.
This is one of my favorite colors in this yarn because it’s so vibrant, rich, and warm. It works equally well for deep, autumn palettes as it does with brighter, summery hues. I have plenty left over, so will likely make something else with this yarn later in the year.
Learn Filet Crochet
This crochet butterfly sarong is a great way to learn filet crochet! It uses only basic blocks and mesh, with no advanced stitches. Learn the basics in this basic filet crochet tutorial, then try out your skills on the sarong!
Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch-2 sp), turn, sk next 2 sts, dc in next st.
This is used to start a row with a mesh. Beg mesh counts as 1dc and 1 mesh in stitch counts at the end of the row.
Mesh:
Ch 2, sk next 2 sts or chs, dc in next st.
Block:
If worked on top of a block (3 dc): Dc in each of next 3 sts.
If worked on top of a mesh (a ch-2 sp and 1 dc): 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next st.
Instructions
Scroll down for chart
Bottom Mesh
Ch 102 [114, 126, 144, 156] [168, 180, 192, 204]
Row 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook (skipped chs count as first dc), dc in next 2 chs, [ch 2, sk next 2 chs, dc in next 4 chs] across. (68 [76, 84, 96, 104] [112, 120, 128, 136] dc, 16 [18, 20, 23, 25] [27, 29, 31, 33] ch-2 sps)
Row 1: Beg mesh, 4 mesh, 4 blocks, 4 mesh, place marker in ch-2 sp of last mesh made, 8 [12, 16, 22, 26] [30, 34, 38, 42] mesh, place marker in ch-2 sp of last mesh made, 3 mesh, 4 blocks, 4 mesh. (1 dc, 8 blocks, 25 [29, 33, 39, 43] [47, 51, 55, 59] mesh)
Move markers up with every row. When moving marker into a mesh, place marker in the ch-2 sp of the mesh. When moving marker into a block, place marker in the 2nd dc of the block.
With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in either top corner.
Tie Row: Ch 50, sl st in each ch across, sl st in starting corner, fasten off.
Join yarn with sl st in opposite top corner and repeat tie row.
Join yarn with sl st in either end of row 13 and repeat tie row.
Join yarn with sl st in opposite end of row 13 and repeat tie row.
Finishing:
Weave in all ends.
Wash and block. As with most lace, blocking is very important to open up the mesh.
Butterfly Sarong Chart
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I hope you enjoyed this crochet butterfly sarong pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Shapeshifter Square Crochet Pattern
A triangle, a circle, and then a square. Constantly shifting shapes make this a fun and exciting square to crochet! With lots of post stitches for texture, this square crochet pattern looks great in one color or many.
I designed this crochet blanket square for the Moogly 2023 afghan CAL. Are you crocheting along? It’s still early in the year so there’s plenty of time to catch up! See the main post for the full schedule and links to all the squares.
Take a look at the block 12 post to see how Moogly’s version of this crochet square pattern turned out.
Caron One Pound Yarn
Yarnspirations was kind enough to send me the Caron One Pound yarn for free for this design. With so many shades of each color to choose from, I went with a cool, tonal palette. I chose 10546 Midnight Blue, 10611 Ocean, 10523 Azure, and 10616 Soft Gray Mix.
4 one-pound skeins is a lot of yarn, and this one crochet square pattern only uses a little bit. So I used the same yarn for the Snuggle Square Crochet Pet Blanket.
Color Changes
This square crochet pattern has 4 separate sections: triangle, circle, square, and border. For my multi-colored square, I used a different color in each section. It looks equally good in just one color, and would look great with more colors as well.
Starting Your Square
The first shape in this square is a triangle, but at the heart of that triangle is a starting circle. There are a few different ways to make a starting circle in crochet. You can work into one chain, make a circle of chains, or use a magic circle. Check out these three options in this 3 Ways to Start a Crochet Circle tutorial.
This square crochet pattern starts with a magic circle, but feel free to substitute whichever option you prefer.
Adjusting the Size
Sometimes our gauge can vary a bit as we crochet, leaving you with a square that’s slightly larger or smaller than you wanted.
To make your square smaller, you can skip the last round (or even the last 2 rounds) of the border.
To make your square larger, you have a few options:
Pull working loop up to the height of a dc. Hold the loop in place, and in a counterclockwise motion, twist your hook around the loop, creating a “yarn over”. Holding both loops in place, insert your hook into the specified stitch, yo and pull up a loop.
(YO and pull through 2 loops on your hook) twice, just as you would finish a normal double crochet. Csdc counts as a dc in stitch counts at the end of rounds.
Join rnds as indicated with a sl st in the first st of the rnd.
Change colors as desired throughout.
Triangle
Make a magic circle.
Rnd 1 (WS): Ch 1, [sc in magic circle, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped chs count as ch-2 sp) and in each of next 2 chs, sc in magic circle] 3 times, join, close magic circle. (15 sc, 3 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog in first 2 sts, *sc in each of next 2 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-2 sp, working in opposite side of chs sc in next 2 chs, sc2tog in next ch and next sc**, [sc2tog in next 2 sts, repeat from * to **] twice, join. (24 sts, 3 ch-2 sps)
Circle
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, [fpdc around each st across to next ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp] 3 times, fpdc around each remaining st, join. (24 fpdc, 6 dc, 3 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 4: Turn, csdc in first st, (ch 1, dc) twice in same st, *sk next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next st, hdc in next st, sk next 2 sts, (dc, ch-1) 3 times in next st**, [dc in next st, (ch 1, dc) twice in same st, repeat from * to **] twice, join. (18 dc, 6 hdc, 12 sc, 15 ch-1 sps, 3 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 5: Turn, (sl st, ch 1, sc) in first ch-1 sp, *(sk next dc, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp) twice, sk next dc, sc in each of next 7 sts, (sk next dc, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp) twice, sk next dc**, [3 sc in next ch-1 sp, repeat from * to **] twice, 2 sc in beginning ch-1 sp, join. (54 sc)
On rnd 6, when working the corner dtr sts, work in front of sts from rnds 4 & 5, and between the two corner dc sts on rnd 3.
Rnd 6: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of first 6 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts, dtr in ch-2 sp 4 rnds below (on rnd 2), sk st on current rnd behind dtr, sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st**, [sc in each of next 11 sts, repeat from * to **] twice, sc in each of last 5 sts, join. (57 sc, 3 dtr)
Square
When working into sts on rnds below, work in front of any sts on the current rnd.
Rnd 7: Ch 1, turn, fpdc around each of first 5 sts, ch 1, [fpdc around each of next 5 sts, ch 1] 11 times, join. (60 fpdc, 12 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 8: Turn, sl st in first ch-1 sp, (csdc, dc) in same sp, *dc in each of next 3 sts, sk next 2 sts, (tr, ch 1, dc, ch 1, tr) in st below next ch-1 sp, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, sk next 2 sts, (tr, ch 1, dc, ch 1, tr) in st below next ch-1 sp, sk next 2 sts, dc in each of next 3 sts**, [(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-1 sp, repeat from * to **] 3 times, 2 dc in beginning ch-1 sp, ch 1, join. (20 tr, 44 dc, 4 sc, 20 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 9: Turn, sl st in first ch-1 sp, (csdc, dc) in same sp, *dc in each of next 5 sts, sk next tr, 2 hdc in next ch-1 sp, sk next dc, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp, sk next tr, sc in next sc, sk next tr, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp, sk next dc, 2 hdc in next ch-1 sp, sk next tr, dc in each of next 5 sts**, [(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-1 sp, repeat from * to **] 3 times, 2 dc in beginning ch-1 sp, ch 1, join. (56 dc, 16 hdc, 20 sc, 4 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 10: Turn, sl st in first ch-1 sp, (csdc, dc) in same sp, *dc in each of next 2 sts, hdc in each of next 3 sts, sc in each of next 2 sts, fptr around each of next 3 sts 2 rnds below (tr, dc, and tr on rnd 8), sk 2 hdc and 2 sc on current row (behind the 3 fptr just made), sc in next sc, fptr around each of next 3 sts 2 rnds below, sk 2 hdc and 2 sc on current row, sc in each of next 2 sts, hdc in each of next 3 sts, dc in each of next 2 sts**, [(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-1 sp, repeat from * to **] 3 times, 2 dc in beginning ch-1 sp, ch 1, join. (32 dc, 24 hdc, 20 sc, 24 fptr, 4 ch-1 sps)
Border
Rnd 11: Turn, sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, hdc in same sp, fpdc around each st across to next ch-1 sp, [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next ch-1 sp, fpdc around each st across to next ch-1 sp] 3 times, hdc in beginning ch-1 sp, ch 2, join. (100 fpdc, 8 hdc, 4 ch-2 sps)
When working into sts on rnds below, work in front of any sts on the current rnd.
Rnd 12: Turn, sl st in first ch-2 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *sc in each of next 5 sts, dc in hdc 2 rnds below (on rnd 10), sk st on current rnd behind dc just made, sc in each of next 7 sts, dc in sc 2 rnds below, sk st on current rnd behind dc just made, sc in each of next 7 sts, dc in hdc 2 rnds below, sk st on current rnd behind dc just made, sc in each of next 5 sts**, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-2 sp, repeat from * to **] 3 times, sc in beginning ch-2 sp, ch 2, join. (104 sc, 12 dc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 14: Turn, sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each st across to next ch-1 sp, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-1 sp, sc in each st across to next ch-1 sp] 3 times, sc in beginning ch-1 sp, ch 2, join. (132 fpdc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Weave in all ends. Wash and block.
Shapeshifter Square Chart
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Patio Chair Caddy or Wheelchair Caddy
Keep all the essentials close at hand with this patio chair caddy! It wraps around the arm of a chair, with snaps to hold it securely in place. The arm size is adjustable, so it makes a great walker or wheelchair caddy too!
I used the color #1975 Sandbar Stripes. The changing colors of the stripes really help to highlight the spike stitch texture.
Open Arms
This patio chair caddy wraps completely around the arm of the chair, so it won’t work for chairs with solid sides. There needs to be a gap under the arm for the caddy to go all the way around.
It can also wrap around any sort of horizontal bar. Use it on railings, walkers, wheelchairs, or anywhere else you need a handy holder!
Adjust the Size
I designed this chair caddy to fit my patio chair, which has a rather wide arm. The section that wraps around the arm is plain half double crochet, so you can add or remove rows easily to fit any arm or bar you like! The pattern includes instructions for measuring your chair and adjusting the length accordingly.
Spike Stitches
Spike stitches create the bold texture of this chair caddy. These stitches dip down into previous rows to create loops on the surface of the fabric. Take a closer look with this crochet spike stitch tutorial!
Since the spike stitch loops wrap all the way around the fabric, the texture looks great on both the right and wrong sides.
Alternative half double crochet decrease
This chair caddy pattern uses a slight variation on the half double crochet decrease. A traditional half double crochet 2 together (hdc2tog) can be a bit bulky. To minimize the bulk, skip one of the yarn overs! Check out this alternative hdc decrease tutorial for a closer look.
Mattress Stitch
For a seamless look, use a mattress stitch seam to attach the side edges of the pocket. This invisible seam laces together loops from the middle of the stitch, so the lacing is completely hidden inside the crochet stitches. Here’s a tutorial for joining side edges.
You’ll be joining the bottom of the pocket to the middle of a row on the front. Since we’re working with half-double crochet, you can hide your seam neatly under the extra third loops!
Row 1 (WS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across. (35 hdc)
Rows 2-3: Ch1, turn, hdc in each st across.
Turn, fold bottom edge back and up, so that the foundation chain lines up behind row 3.
Row 4: Ch 1, working through both layers, hdc in each st across. Mark this row as RS of work.
You should now have a small tube along the bottom edge of your work. Later, you can put the dowel rod into this tube if desired. If you are not using a dowel rod, it just creates a nicely finished bottom edge. You should be able to see a ridge of third loops from row 3 on the right side of your work.
Rows 5-6: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across.
Row 7: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, [spike hdc, hdc in each of next 3 sts] across to last 2 sts, spike hdc, hdc in last st. (26 hdc, 9 spike hdc)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (35 hdc)
Row 9: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of first 3 sts, [spike hdc, hdc in each of next 3 sts] across. (27 hdc, 8 spike hdc)
Row 10: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (35 hdc)
Rows 11-18: Repeat rows 7-10 twice more.
Rows 19-21: Repeat rows 7-9 once more.
Front Main Section Chart
Click image to expand
Top
Scroll down for chart of Front Top and Arm sections together.
Row 22 (RS): Ch 2 (does not count as a st throughout), sk first st, hdc in each st across to last 2 sts, dec in last 2 sts. (33 sts)
Row 23: Ch 2, turn, sk first st, [hdc in each of next 3 sts, spike hdc] across to last 4 sts, hdc in each of next 2 sts, dec in last 2 sts. (23 hdc, 7 spike hdc, 1 dec)
On rows 24-31, total stitch count will decrease by 2 sts on each row.
Rows 24-31: Repeat rows 22-23 four times more. (11 hdc, 3 spike hdc, 1 dec)
Arm
Scroll down for chart of Front Top and Arm sections together.
Rows 32-61: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (15 hdc)
You can adjust this section to fit your specific patio chair, wheelchair or walker. Wrap a measuring tape around the arm of your chair / bar of the walker to measure the circumference.
Make your Arm section this length. You can add extra length if desired, but remember that the caddy will stretch a bit, particularly if it is holding heavier items.
Any adjustments will affect the yardage needed. End after a RS row.
Front Top & Arm Chart
Click image to expand
Back
Top
Scroll down for chart
Row 62: Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in each st across to last st, 2 hdc in last st. (17 hdc)
Row 63: Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in next st, [spike hdc, hdc in each of next 3 sts] across to last 3 sts, Shdc, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in last st. (15 hdc, 4 spike hdc)
On rows 64-71, total stitch count will increase by 2 sts on each row.
Rows 64-71: Repeat rows 62-63 four times more. (27 hdc, 8 spike hdc)
Back Top Chart
Click image to expand
Main Section
Row 72-87: Repeat rows 6-21 of Front Main Section.
Fasten off.
Back Main Section Chart
Click image to expand
Pocket
Ch 36
Row 1 (WS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across. Mark this row as RS. (35 hdc)
Rows 2-3: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, [spike hdc, hdc in each of next 3 sts] across to last 2 sts, spike hdc, hdc in last st. (26 hdc, 9 spike hdc)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (35 hdc)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of first 3 sts, [spike hdc, hdc in each of next 3 sts] across. (27 hdc, 8 spike hdc)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (35 hdc)
Rows 8-16: Repeat rows 4-7 twice, then repeat row 4 once more.
Fasten off.
Pocket chart
Click image to expand
Assembly
Snaps
The snaps will attach Back and Front together when caddy is folded at center of Arm. Row 5 of Front will line up with row 87 of Back.
On WS of Front, attach 1 end of 7 snaps as follows:
Sew 1 snap in each bottom corner at approximately row 5 and 1-2 stitches in from the edges.
Sew 3 snaps along the top of the Front Main Section at Row 21 (just before the decreases). Place one snap 1-2 stitches in from each edge, and the third snap in the center.
Sew 2 snaps at the top of the Front Top section at Row 30 (just before the Arm section)
Sew the other end of the snaps in matching positions on WS of Back.
Remove marker from Caddy (snaps now mark WS).
Pocket
Open snaps and lay caddy flat with RS up. Place Pocket with RS up on top of rows 4-19 of Front Main Section. Sew in place around side and bottom edges as follows, being careful not to sew over snaps.
Use a mattress stitch to sew first side seam.
Sew bottom edge in a similar manner, hiding your stitches under the exposed third loops from rnd 3 of Front.
Sew remaining side seam with a mattress stitch.
Place markers where you would like dividing seams. I did mine approximately 11 stitches in from each side. Sew vertical lines where marked, sewing through both layers, to divide pocket into sections.
Optional Dowel:
Insert dowel into open tube below pocket. You can sew the ends of the tube shut to secure the dowel, or leave them open so you can remove it easily for washing.
Weave in all ends and remove all markers.
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Snuggle Square Crochet Pet Blanket
Pamper your pet with a snuggly new blanket! The Snuggle Square crochet pet blanket is a soft, cozy, and sturdy project for your furry friends.
Yarnspirations gave me all the Caron One Pound yarn for this crochet pet blanket design. This worsted weight, acrylic yarn is soft, durable, and affordable too. The giant, 1 pound skeins come in a wide range of rich colors to mix and match for your perfect color combination!
The texture of this stitch pattern reminded me of tiny ripples or wavelets, so I went with a gradient of blue and grey shades. I chose 10546 Midnight Blue, 10611 Ocean, 10523 Azure, and 10616 Soft Gray Mix. Which color palette will you choose?
Crochet Crunch Stitch
Crunch stitch is a dense and squishy pattern of alternating half double crochet and slip stitches. That’s what creates the wavy, textured stripes of this crochet pet blanket.
Extended half double crochet
Rows of extended half double crochet (ehdc) separate the crunch stitch stripes. These stitches are half double crochet stitches with an added chain in the middle. They are a little taller and narrower than regular half double crochet, but not quite as tall or narrow as double crochet. For a closer look, see this Extended Half Double Crochet Tutorial.
Not just for pets!
Durable yarn and a solid stitch are a perfect combination for pets! There are no large loops or holes for little paws to get caught on. The soft yarn and squishy texture make it an extra cozy spot for your furry friend.
All these same factors make it great for babies, and for grown-ups too! Make one for yourself or for someone you love (whether or not they have fur).
Extended half double crochet (ehdc): Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 1 loop on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Row 1 (RS): Ehdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (108 [144, 180] ehdc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, sl st in next st, [hdc in next st, sl st in next st] across. (54 [72, 90] hdc, 54 [72, 90] sl sts)
Rows 3-5 [3-7, 3-9]: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first sl st, sl st in next hdc, [hdc in next sl st, sl st in next hdc] across.
Row 6 [8, 10]: Ch 2, turn, ehdc in each st across. (108 [144, 180] ehdc)
Rows 7-26 [9-36, 11-46]: Repeat rows 2-6 [2-8, 2-10] 4 times more.
Change to B; fasten off A.
Section 2
Row 1 (RS): Ch 2, turn, ehdc in each st across. (108 [144, 180] ehdc)
Rows 7-26 [9-36, 11-46]: Work as for Section 1.
Change to C; fasten off B.
Section 3
With C, repeat section 2 up to color change.
Change to D; fasten off C.
Section 4
With D, repeat section 2 up to color change.
Do not fasten off.
Sections 1-4 Chart
This chart does not include the edging round.
Click image to enlarge
Edging Round (RS)
Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across to last st, 2 sc in last st. (110 [146, 182] sc)
Working in sides of rows, work 27 [36, 45] sc evenly spaced across each section, changing colors to match each section. (108 [144, 180] sc)
Working across bottom of row 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across to last st, 2 sc in last st. (110 [146, 182] sc)
Working in sides of rows, work 27 [36, 45] sc evenly spaced across each section, changing colors to match each section. (108 [144, 180] sc)
Join with sl st to first st of edging round. (436 [580, 724] sc total)
Fasten off.
Weave in all ends.
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