Free Crochet Patterns
Find the perfect, free crochet pattern for your next project! Browse them all, or select a category from the dropdown menu. Where will your creativity take you today?
Free Pattern – Candy Cane Mobius Cowl
Stay warm this winter with candy colored stripes! The Candy Cane Mobius Cowl is super easy to make and can be adjusted to any size. Wear it with the twist in front, or shift the twist to the back. You can even fold the edges over to create a collared effect. Which way will you wear it?
The Candy Cane Mobius Cowl was designed for the Scarf of the Month Club Crochet Along, hosted by Oombawka Designs and The Stitchin Mommy. Check out all this year’s beautiful scarves and cowls!
This pattern contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
I received the yarn used in this design for free from Lion Brand.
Candy Cane Mobius Cowl
Add this to your Ravelry Queue
Materials
- Lion Brand Wool Ease Worsted Weight Yarn:
- 120 yds #138 Cranberry (A)
- 90 yds #99 Fisherman (B)
- Size H / 5 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Skill Level
Easy – Double crochet worked in the round with color changes.
Size
17 x 9 inches when laid flat, 34 inches circumference.
Gauge
11.5 dc x 9 rows = 4 inches. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
rnd = round
Recommended Resources
Instructions
Ch 3 at the start of a round counts as a dc throughout.
Foundation: With A, ch 111. Being careful not to twist the chain, join with sl st to form a circle.
Rnd 1: Ch 3, dc in next ch and in each ch around. Flip first stitch down so you can work in the bottom of it. Working in bottom of foundation chains, dc in each st around, join with sl st to first st, changing to B. (222 sts)
Rnd 2: With B, ch 3, turn, dc in each st around, join with sl st to first st, changing to A.
Rnds 3-4: With A, ch 3, turn, dc in each st around, join with sl st to first st, changing to B at end of rnd 4.
Rnds 5-10: Repeat rounds 2-4 twice more.
Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Angel Ornament
Make some for yourself, and make more for your friends. This sweet little Angel Ornament works up in under an hour, and makes a great gift. The open, granny stitch pattern lets the tree lights shine through, making her seem to light up inside. A video tutorial is included below!
This pattern contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Materials:
- 40-50 yds Worsted weight yarn
- Size H / 5 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
- Stitch marker or scrap of yarn
- Fiber fill (enough to stuff the head as desired)
Skill Level:
Intermediate – increases, decreases, picots.
Size:
About 6 inches tall not counting loop. You can use a different size yarn or thread for a larger or smaller angel, but the yardage needed will vary accordingly.
Gauge:
Use head as gauge swatch. Before stuffing, head should measure about 2 inches tall and 2.5 inches wide. Exact gauge is not critical but stitches should be tight enough for the head so that the stuffing won’t fall out.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- inc = invisible increase (see Special Stitches)
- dec = invisible decrease (see Special Stitches)
- sp = space
- ch-sp = chain space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
Special Stitches:
Invisible increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, then sc in both loops of same stitch.
Invisible decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook.
This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Picot: Ch 3, sl st in top of the previous stitch you made. (See Recommended Resources section for a picot tutorial)
Instructions:
(Scroll down for video tutorial)
Leave an 8 inch starting tail.
Loop (for hanging):
Ch 6, join with sl st to form a circle.
Head:
Entire angel is worked on the right side, do not turn your work. Head is worked in continuous rounds. Mark the first stitch of each round, and do not join at the end of the round.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, 6 sc in same ch where you joined loop. (6 sc)
Fold loop forward so you can continue to work around it.
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (Inc in next st, sc in next st) around. (18 sc)
Rnds 4-7: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 8: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sts)
Rnd 9: Dec in each st around, sl st in first st of round. (6 sts)
Remove stitch marker if desired.
Body:
Ch 3 at the beginning of a rnd counts as a dc.
Rnd 10: Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in first st, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next st, ch 1, 3 dc in next st, [ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next st] twice, ch 1, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, join with sl st to first st. (30 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 6 ch-1 sps)
For remainder of body, work only into ch-sps, skipping sts unless otherwise indicated.
Rnd 11: Sl st in next 2 sts and in first ch-2 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same ch-2 sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, [ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp] twice,** ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, repeat from * to **, ch 1, join with sl st to first st. Place marker in last ch-1 sp made. (42 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 10 ch-1 sps)
Stuff head. Make sure starting tail sticks out through the stuffing at the neck. Using starting tail, sew neck closed.
Rnd 12: Sk next 4 ch sps, (sl st, ch 3, 2 dc) in next ch-1 sp, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) twice, sk next 4 ch sps, ch 2, (3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) twice, 3 dc in last ch-1 sp, ch 2, join with sl st to first st. (18 dc, 2 ch-2 sps, 4 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 13: Ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp (the last one before the join), (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) twice, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) twice, ch 1, 3 dc in beginning ch-2 sp, ch 2, join with sl st to first st. (24 dc, 2 ch-2 sps, 6 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 14: Ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) 3 times, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) 3 times, 3 dc in beginning ch-2 sp, ch 2, join with sl st to first st. (30 dc, 2 ch-2 sps, 8 ch-1 sps)
Bottom Edging:
Rnd 15: Ch 3, dc in same ch-2 sp, (3 dc, picot, 2 dc) in each ch sp around, (3 dc, picot) in beginning ch sp, join with sl st to first st, fasten off. (50 dc, 10 picots)
Wing Edging:
Fold wings so skipped sts and ch-sps from rnd 11 match up. There will be one stitch at the top of each wing that is by itself.
First wing: With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in marked sp (at the underarm). Working through both layers, sc in next 3 sts, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 3 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next st, sl st in remaining single st at top of wing. Fasten off. (11 sc)
Second Wing: With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in the single st at the top of wing. Working through both layers, sc in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 3 sts, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 3 sts, sl st in next ch-1 sp, fasten off.
Weave in all ends.
Angel Ornament – Video Tutorial:
I’ve split this video into 3 parts here, due to the file size. It’s also available as one video on YouTube.
Part 1:
Part 2:
Part 3:
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Ruffled Mini Tree Skirt
Everything’s better with ruffles! This Ruffled Mini Tree Skirt is only 12 inches in diameter, to fit a small, tabletop tree. Sew it closed, and it would look great under other decorations as well, or even as a trivet. Using only one color at a time, this easy design creates wedge shaped sections, surrounded by a ruffled edging.
This pattern contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
I made the sample using Red Heart Holiday yarn, which I had received free from Red Heart for another project. This yarn is now discontinued, but With Love Metallic is a good substitute
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Ruffled Mini Tree Skirt
Materials:
- Red Heart With Love Metallic yarn
- 50 yds #8303 Aran (A)
- 90 yds #8919 Red (B)
- Size H (5 mm) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Skill Level:
Easy – Simple stitches, short row shaping, some working in back loop only.
Size:
12 inches diameter.
Gauge:
15 sc x 18 rows = 4 inches (after blocking). Exact gauge is not critical, but yardage will vary with gauge.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- ch sp = chain space
- RS = Right Side
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
With A, Ch 18
Wedge 1 (color A):
Row 1 (RS): Working in back bumps, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 4 chs, hdc in next 5 chs, dc in next 7 chs (17 sts)
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), turn, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 5 sts, sc in next 5 sts, leaving remaining sts unworked. (13 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 5 sts, hdc in next 5 sts, dc in remaining st(s).
Row 4: Ch 3, turn, hdc in next 5 sts, sc in next 5 sts, leaving remaining sts unworked (11 sts)
Row 5: Repeat row 3
Row 6: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 5 sts, sc in next st, sc in next 4 skipped sts from previous rows, leaving remaining sts unworked. (15 sts)
Row 7: Repeat row 3
Row 8: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 5 sts, sc in next 3 sts, sc in remaining skipped sts from previous rows, changing to red. (17 sts)
Wedge 2 (color B):
Row 9 (RS): Working in back loops only, repeat row 3. (17 sts)
Rows 10-16: Repeat rows 2-8, changing to A at the end of the last row.
Wedge 3 (color A):
Rows 17-24: With A, repeat 2nd wedge, changing to red at the end of the last row.
Wedges 4-8:
Repeat wedges 2-3 twice, then repeat wedge 2 once more.
Edging (color B):
Rnd 1 (RS):
Wedge 8 edge: Working in back loops only, ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (17 sts)
Outside edge: Working in sides of rows, ch 1, 3 sc in each row, ch 1. (192 sts)
Wedge 1 edge: Working in bottom of foundation chain, sc in each st across. (17 sts)
Center circle: Working in sides of rows, ch 1, 2 sc in each row, ch 1, join with sl st to first st. (16 sts)
Row 2 (RS): Do not turn. Ch 1, sc in each st across wedge 8 edge, ch 2, 2 dc in next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each st around outside edge, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, fasten off. (406 sts)
Finishing:
Wash and block.
Weave in all ends.
For a seamless appearance, overlap the edges at the opening, with the edging from wedge 1 laying on top of the edging from wedge 8.
To make a trivet, sew the opening edges together, then sew through each stitch around the center circle and pull tightly to close.
I hope you enjoy the pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Letter Charts (entire Alphabet! – 12 x 14)
When I published the Boo Blocks pattern for Halloween, many of you said you would like to use the same design for other words and holidays as well. Now you can, with these colorwork letter charts for the entire alphabet! I’ve also included some punctuation, a heart, and a tree!
This content is protected by copyright. See this Terms of Use / Copyright page for more information.
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Wooden Blocks
For the Boo Blocks design, Global Backyard Industries sent me some free 4 inch wood blocks. You can buy the blocks on their site in sets of 4 or 6 (they are out of stock as I am writing this, but should be back soon!). Using these letter charts, you can spell out Joy, Peace, Love, Dream, or any other words you like on your blocks.
So Many Possibilities!
Each letter is 8 stitches wide and 13 stitches tall, charted over a 12 x 14 area. These charts were designed for use with the Boo Blocks pattern, but can be used for a variety of other applications as well. Add a name or initials to a project, or even use them as embroidery or cross stitch charts!
Letter Charts:
Please do not “pin” this chart on Pinterest. If you would like to pin from this post, please pin the image at the top of the post instead. Thanks!
What will you make with these letters? Share your project pictures on the Scrappy Stitchers Link Party, or in the Scrappy Stitchers Facebook group!
I hope you enjoy these charts. A downloadable pdf version of the Boo Blocks pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee, and now includes these additional charts as a bonus download! The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Mod Stripes Towel
Funky, fun, and festive, everything about this towel is just a little bit off kilter. The uneven stripes have raised edges that flow in one direction, and the textured wattle stitch is an asymmetrical variation of the V stitch.
You can even change the look entirely depending on how you fold it. Show off the bold striping pattern, or fold it in thirds lengthwise and it becomes solid red with a thin decorative border! With so many options to fit any decor, the Mod Stripes Towel makes a unique gift that can be used all year.
This pattern was designed for the 2018 Holiday Stashdown Crochet-along, hosted by CAL Central. LoveCrafts has generously provided all the participating designers with fabulous Paintbox yarns for free, to use for our Holiday Stashdown CAL designs. LoveCrafts is also providing one lucky giveaway winner with all 60 (yes, 60!) shades of their Paintbox Simply Aran yarn. That’s an amazing prize!
Check out the main Holiday Stashdown CAL post for information on how to join in the fun, enter the giveaway, and see all the other great patterns and prizes! Please also show all our sponsors some love by visiting their stores. We couldn’t have these great giveaways without their support.
#HolidayStashdownCAL #CALCentral
This post contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click an affiliate link and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Mod Stripes Towel
Materials:
- Paintbox Cotton DK
- 130 yds #408 Vanilla Cream (cream)
- 130 yds #416 Red Wine (red)
- 80 yds #427 Slate Green (teal)
- Size G (4 mm) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Skill Level:
Easy – changing colors, working in third loop of hdc.
Size:
15 x 20 inches.
Gauge:
17 sc x 18 rows = 4 inches (after blocking). Exact gauge is not critical, but yardage will vary with gauge.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- ch sp = chain space
- RS = Right Side
- WS = Wrong side
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
With cream, Ch 99 (multiple of 3)
Cream Stripe (5 rows):
Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook, sk next ch, [(sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch, sk next 2 chs] 31 times, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch, sk next ch, hdc in last ch. (2 hdc, 32 ch-1 sps)
Rows 2-4: Ch 1, turn, [hdc in first st, [sk next dc, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp, sk next sc] across to last st, hdc in last st. (2 hdc, 32 ch-1- sps)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, [sk next dc, 3 hdc in next ch-1 sp, sk next sc] across to last st, hdc in last st, changing to teal. (98 hdc)
Fasten off yarn at the end of each stripe – do not carry yarn up the side of your work.
Teal Stripe (4 rows):
Row 6: Working in third loops only, Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, sk next st, [(sc, ch 1, dc) in next st, sk next 2 sts] 31 times, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next st, sk next st, hdc in last st. (2 hdc, 32 ch-1 sps)
Rows 7-8: Repeat row 2.
Row 9: Repeat row 5, changing to cream at end of row.
Cream Stripe (2 rows):
Row 10: Repeat row 6
Row 11: Repeat row 5, changing to red at end of row.
Red Stripe (22 rows):
Row 12: Repeat row 6
Rows 13-32: Repeat row 2.
Row 33: Repeat row 5, changing to cream at end of row.
Cream Stripe (4 rows):
Row 34: Repeat row 6
Rows 34-36: Repeat row 2.
Row 37: Repeat row 5, changing to teal at end of row.
Teal Stripe (6 rows):
Row 38: Repeat row 6
Rows 39-42: Repeat row 2.
Row 43: Repeat row 5, changing to cream at end of row.
Cream Stripe (3 rows):
Row 44: Repeat row 6
Row 45: Repeat row 2
Row 46: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, sk next dc, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp, [sk next sc, sk next dc, 3 sc in next ch-1 sp, sk next sc, sk next dc, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp] across to last st, sc in last st. (79 sc)
Edging:
Rnd 1: (280 sc total)
- Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to last st, 3 sc in last st. (81 sc)
- Working in sides of rows, work 57 sc evenly spaced across. (57 sc)
- Working in bottom of foundation chain, treat the skipped chs as ch-sps: 3 sc in first ch, sk next ch-sp, sc in next ch, (2 sc in next ch-sp, sc in next ch, sc in next ch sp, sc in next ch) 15 times, sc in last ch-sp, 3 sc in last ch. (83 sc)
- Working in sides of rows, work 57 sc evenly spaced across, 2 sc in same st as beginning of round, join with sl st to first st, changing to teal. (59 sc)
Rnd 2: With teal, ch 1, turn, sc in first st (corner), [ch 1, sk next st, (sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st) 29 times, 3 sc in next st (corner), ch 1, sk next st, (sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st) 39 times], 3 sc in next st, (corner), repeat between [ ], 2 sc in same st as beginning corner, join with sl st to first st, changing to cream. (148 sc, 140 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 3: With cream, ch 1, turn, 3 sc in first st, [sc in each st and in each ch-1 sp across to next corner (sc in next st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st)] 3 times, sc in each st and in each ch-1 sp across, join with sl st to first st. (296 sc)
Finishing:
Fasten off.
Wash and block.
Weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy the pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Boo Blocks
Add a ghostly greeting to your Halloween decor with these Boo Blocks! Display them on a shelf, or hang them on the wall. The crocheted sleeves work up fast, and wrap securely around wooden blocks. They come off easily too, so after Halloween you can replace them with other letters or designs. Check out my Alphabet Letter Charts for all the letters!
I received the wood blocks for this design for free from Global Backyard Industries. My blocks were 1 5/8″ deep, but are no longer available. So I have modified the pattern to fit 2″ deep blocks, which are more readily available. You can find many options on Amazon, meant for carving or painting. The sample is shown in Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice yarn, #135 Rust & #173 Dusty Green, which I received free from Lion Brand.
This pattern contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Materials:
- 140 yds (total) worsted weight yarn in 2 colors.
- Four 4x4x2 inch Wood Blocks
- Size H / 5 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Skill Level:
Intermediate – Charted colorwork, some working into front loops only.
Size:
Fits 4″ x 4″ x 2″ wood blocks
Gauge:
13 sc x 16 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch – After round 1 of sides, work should just cover the front of the 4 inch block.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- MC = main color
- AC = accent color
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
- Changing Colors
- How to make a crochet graphghan on Nicki’s Homemade Crafts (shows how to follow the colorwork charts).
- Front loop only and back loop only on Moogly
Instructions:
For more even yarn usage, alternate which color is main and which is accent, between squares.
Front:
With MC ch 13
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each sc across.
Rows 2-14: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, changing colors according to one of the letter charts below.
Sides:
Sides are worked in turned rounds – it is important to turn your work with every round. Ch 3 at the start of a round counts as first dc throughout.
Rnd 1 (RS): With MC, ch 1, turn, sc in each st across top; working in sides of rows, work 12 sc evenly spaced across side; working in bottom of foundation chain, sc in each ch across; working in sides of rows, work 12 sc evenly spaced across other side, join with sl st to back loop only of first st. (48 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, turn, working in front loop only, dc in next st and each st around, join with sl st to first st. (48 dc)
Rnds 3-5: Ch 3, turn, working in both loops as normal, dc in next st and each st around, join with sl st to first st. (48 dc)
Note: Adjust the depth to fit your blocks by working more or fewer repeats of Rnd 3.
Rnd 6: Sl st in next 3 sts, ch 4, turn, (sk next 6 sts, sl st in next 6 sts, ch 4) 3 times, sk next 6 sts, sl st in next 5 sts. Fasten off. (4 corner loops)
Finishing:
Weave in ends.
Insert wood block, starting at one corner and working your way around (it will be tight).
Repeat instructions for the other 3 blocks, to spell the word BOO! (or BOB, or even BOOB….I won’t judge)
Charts:
Click on chart images to expand (opens in new tab or window)
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Autumn Air
Autumn is in the air! The Autumn Air cowl, with its blocks of fall colors, will take you through the season in style. This entrelac technique is a great introduction to the basics of Tunisian crochet, because it’s worked one small square at a time.
I am releasing this design in sections, as a crochet along. Please see the main Autumn Air Cowl Crochet Along post for information on how to participate. This pattern post will be updated with new sections as they are released.
This pattern contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Materials:
- DK weight yarn:
- 125 yds Rust (A)
- 100 yds Green (B)
- 100 yds Yellow (C)
- Size H / 5 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge.
Note: You do not necessarily need to use a tunisian hook, but there should be enough room on the hook before any finger grips to comfortably fit 9 loops / stitches. - Yarn needle
Skill Level:
Intermediate – Tunisian simple stitch / Tunisian entrelac crochet in the round.
Size:
7 inches x 13 inches flat (26 inches circumference)
Gauge:
15 sc x 16 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge: Not including foundation row, first triangle should measure 2.5 inches wide by 1.25 inches tall. Exact gauge is not critical and pattern can be adjusted for size.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- fsc = foundation single crochet (optional)
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- yo = yarn over
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
(Scroll down for video tutorial)
Bottom edging:
Work 99 fsc (multiple of 9), join with sl st to first st being careful not twist the rnd. (99 fsc)
OR Ch 100 (multiple of 9 plus 1), sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, join with sl st to first sc, being careful not to twist the rnd. (99 sc)
To adjust the length of your cowl, make more or fewer stitches on your first row. Just be sure to have a multiple of 9 stitches.
Round 1 – Starting Triangles:
Triangle:
Row 1: Draw up a loop in next st on foundation, yo and pull through 1 loop, yo and pull through both loops on hook. (2 sts)
When you yo and pull through 1 loop, the left leg of the resulting stitch becomes the “vertical bar” of that stitch.
Row 2: Sk first st, draw up a loop in next vertical bar, draw up a loop in next st on foundation, yo and pull through 1 loop, (yo and pull through both loops on hook) twice. (3 sts)
Rows 3-8: Sk first st, (draw up a loop in next vertical bar) to end, draw up a loop in next st on foundation, yo and pull through 1 loop, (yo and pull through both loops on hook) to end. (9 sts on row 8)
Row 9: Sk first st, sl st in each vertical bar to end, sl st in next st on foundation. (9 sl sts).
Repeat triangle around. On last triangle, you will be working your last sl st into the same st as the joining of the foundation rnd.
Fasten off.
The stitch we have been making is called Tunisian simple stitch (tss), with increases to shape the triangle. In Tunisian crochet, each row has a forward pass where we pick up loops, and a return pass where we work those loops off.
Round 2 – Diamonds:
With B, pull up a loop in top corner of any triangle. This should be the first slip stitch from the last row of that triangle.
Diamond:
Row 1: Working across triangle from previous round: Sk first st, draw up a loop in each of next 8 vertical bars (9 loops on hook), sl st in first st on next triangle , (Yo and pull through 2 loops on hook) to end. (9 sts)
Rows 2-8: Sk first st, draw up a loop in each of next 8 vertical bars (9 loops on hook), sl st in next st on next triangle, (Yo and pull through 2 loops on hook) to end. (9 sts)
Row 9: Sk first st, sl st in each vertical bar to end, sl st in top of next triangle. (9 sl sts).
Repeat diamond around. On last diamond, you will be working your last sl st into the same st where you first joined color B.
Fasten off B.
Round 3 – Diamonds:
With C, pull up a loop in top corner of any diamond from previous round.
Diamond:
Row 1: Working across diamond from previous round: Sk first st, draw up a loop in each of next 8 vertical bars. (9 loops on hook), sl st in first st on next diamond, (Yo and pull through 2 loops on hook) to end. (9 sts)
Rows 2-8: Sk first vertical bar, draw up a loop in each of next 8 vertical bars (9 loops on hook), sl st in next st on next diamond, (Yo and pull through 2 loops on hook) to end. (9 sts)
Row 9: Sk first st, sl st in each of next 8 vertical bars, sl st in top of next diamond. (9 sl sts).
Repeat diamond around. On last diamond, you will be working your last sl st into the same st where you first joined color C.
Fasten off C.
Rounds 4-6 – Diamonds:
Round 4: Repeat round 3 with color A.
Round 5: Repeat round 3 with color C.
Round 6: Repeat round 3 with color B.
Round 7 – Ending Triangles:
With A, pull up a loop in top corner of any diamond.
Triangle:
Row 1: Working across diamond from previous round: Sk first st, draw up a loop in each of next 8 vertical bars (9 loops on hook), sl st in first st on next diamond, (Yo and pull through 2 loops on hook) 6 times, yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook. (8 sts)
Pulling through 3 loops at once creates a decrease. This decrease combines the edge stitch with the vertical bar next to it. When skipping this stitch, be sure to also skip the vertical bar that is part of it.
Rows 2-6: Sk first st (including vertical bar), draw up a loop in each remaining vertical bar, sl st in next st on next diamond, (Yo and pull through 2 loops on hook) until 3 loops remain, yo and pull through all 3 loops. (3 sts on row 6)
Row 7: Sk first st (including vertical bar), draw up a loop in next 2 vertical bars, sl st in next st on next diamond, Yo and pull through all 3 loops. (2 sts)
Row 8: Sk first st (including vertical bar), draw up a loop in next vertical bar, sl st in next st on next diamond, Yo and pull through both loops. (2 sts)
Sl st in top of next diamond.
Repeat triangle around. On last triangle, you will be working your last sl st into the same st where you first joined color A.
Do NOT fasten off.
Top edging:
Working into the edge stitches from last round, sc in each st around. (99 sts)
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Autumn Air – Video Tutorials:
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Little Cutie Booties
Warm up little feet with these Little Cutie Booties! They feature blocks of bright, berry colors, and a bit of texture around the toes. The pattern includes instructions for two sizes, and there’s a video tutorial too!
The yarn used for this design was provided for free by KPC yarn.
This pattern contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Materials:
- KPC Glencoul DK yarn
- 25-30 yds Lucky Heather (purple)
- 25-30 yds Parakeet (green)
- 12-15 yds Forest Fruit (pink)
- Size G / 4 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Skill Level:
Intermediate – increases, decreases, front and back post stitches, working in the round, working in back loop only.
Size:
Pattern is written for 0-6 months, with changes for 6-12 months in [ ]. Sole length: 4 [5] inches.
Gauge:
18 sc x 22 rows = 4 inches.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together
- dc = double crochet
- fpdc = front post double crochet
- bpdc = back post double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
(Scroll down for video tutorial)
Toe:
Toe is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark the first stitch of each round.
Rnd 1: With purple, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around (16 sc)
Rnd 4: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts) around (20 sc)
6-12 months only – Rnd 5: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts) around (24 sc)
Next Rnd: Working in back loops only, sc in each st around (20 [24] sc)
Repeat last rnd 4 [5] more times. Sl st in next st, changing to green.
Heel:
Heel is worked in rows.
Row 1 (RS): With green and working in back loops only, ch 1 sc in next 13 [15] sts, sc2tog, leaving remaining 4 [6] sts unworked. (14 [16] sts).
Rows 2-10 [11]: Working in both loops, ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 11 [12]: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 5 [6] sts, sc2tog twice, sc in last 5 [6] sts. (12 [14] sts)
6-12 months only – Row 13: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 5 sts, sc2tog twice, sc in last 5 sts. (12 sts)
Edging (RS): Ch 1, do not turn; working in sides of rows, work 8 [9] sc evenly spaced to toe; sc in back loop only of each skipped st across toe; working in sides of rows, work 8 [9] sc evenly spaced to back of heel, ch 1, join with sl st to first st of last row; fasten off, leaving an 8 inch tail. (20 [24] sc)
Fold last row of heel in half, with right sides facing. Sew seam at back of heel with a whipstitch, working through the wrong side loops only.
Cuff:
Cuff is worked in joined rounds. Do not turn unless indicated. Ch 2 at the beginning of a row counts as a bpdc.
Rnd 1: With RS facing, join pink in first edging stitch at back of heel (just to the left of the seam). Ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first st. (20 [24] hdc)
Rnds 2-3 [4]: Ch 2, fpdc in next st, (bpdc in next st, fpdc in next st) around, join with sl st to first st.
Fasten off.
Turn bootie inside out and weave in all ends. Repeat instructions for 2nd bootie.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Stocking Ornament
Brighten up your holidays with this cute little stocking ornament. Hang it on your tree, tie it on a present, add it to a wreath or garland, or use it as a gift bag for a small gift. The pattern works up quickly and easily, which is good, because you’ll want to make a bunch of them! You can use any size yarn you like, so it’s a great scrapbuster too.
The sample pictured was made with some leftover Bonbons yarn, which I had received free from Lion Brand for another project.
This pattern contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Stocking Ornament
Materials:
- Any yarn – yardage will vary based on yarn size.
- Main color (A)
- Accent color (B)
- Appropriate hook for your yarn.
- Yarn needle
Skill Level:
Intermediate – single crochets in the round with some shaping and color changes.
Size / Gauge:
Exact gauge is not critical, use any size hook that you are comfortable with for your yarn. Size and yardage will vary depending on the yarn and hook used. The sample shown is about 4 inches tall, and 2 inches wide at the cuff. I used DK weight yarn, about 20-25 yds each of 2 colors, and a size G (4mm) hook.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet the next 2 stitches together.
- st(s) = stitch(es)
Recommended Resources:
- Continuous rounds and running stitch markers
- Why Continuous Rounds Shift
- (Almost) Invisible, Single Crochet Increase (alternative to 2 sc in next st)
- Invisible Single Crochet Decrease on Nicki’s Homemade Crafts – (alternative to sc2tog)
Instructions:
The entire pattern is worked on the right side, in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark the first stitch of each round.
Toe & Foot:
Rnd 1: With A, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) around. (9 sc)
Rnd 3: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around. (12 sc)
Rnd 4: Repeat rnd 3. (16 sc)
Rnds 5-10: Sc in each st around.
Ankle:
Rnd 11 (create opening for heel): Ch 8, sk next 8 sts, sc in next 8 sts. (8 sc, 8 chs)
Rnd 12: Sc in each ch and each sc around (16 sts)
Rnd 13-16: Sc in each st around, changing to B in last st of rnd 16. Cut A.
Cuff & Loop:
Rnds 17-28: With B, sc in each st around. Fasten off B.
Fold cuff over a little more than halfway, so that it just covers the color change from Rnd 16.
Loop: Join A with sl st at center back of folded cuff, centered above the heel opening. Ch 12, sl st in same st as joining, fasten off A.
Heel:
With right side facing, join B with sl st in first skipped st from rnd 11.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each of the 8 skipped sts from rnd 11, sc in side of row at edge of heel opening, sc in bottom of each of the 8 chs from rnd 11, sc in side of row at edge of heel opening. (18 sc)
Rnd 2: (Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, sc in next st) twice. (14 sts)
Rnd 3: (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, sc in next st) twice. (10 sts)
Rnd 4: (Sc2tog twice, sc in next st) twice. (6 sts)
Fasten off B, leaving a 6 inch tail. Use tail to sew last round of heel closed.
Finishing:
There is a tail at the top of the cuff. After folding the cuff over, sew that tail through to the inside of the stocking. This will help hold the cuff in place and allow you to weave that tail in more easily.
Turn stocking inside out and weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Ghostly Garland
Spooky, or cute? Whichever your Halloween decorating style, these little ghosts will fit right in! Make this Ghostly Garland in any size, with any weight of yarn. Decorate a staircase, mantle or wall with a long garland, or make just the ghosts to hang individually. A video tutorial is included below!
The Ghostly Garland was designed for the 2018 Halloween Crochet Along hosted by Underground Crafter and Oombawka Design Crochet. Visit the main 2018 Halloween Crochet Along post for more information on the event, links to the patterns, and instructions for entering the giveaway.
This pattern contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Materials:
- Worsted weight yarn – about 50 yds per ghost. (See Size and Gauge for information on using other size yarns)
- Size H / 5 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
- Fiber fill (enough to stuff the heads as desired)
Skill Level:
Intermediate – increases, decreases, picots.
Size:
Each ghost is roughly 6 to 6.5 inches tall. The 3-ghost garland is about 24 inches long (6 inches long per ghost, plus an extra 6 inches). You can make more or fewer ghosts for a longer or shorter garland. You can also use any size yarn or thread that you like, but the size of your ghost and the yardage needed will vary accordingly.
Gauge:
Exact gauge is not critical. Use any size hook that you are comfortable with, as long as the stitches are tight enough for the head so that stuffing won’t fall out.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- inc = invisible increase (see Special Stitches)
- dec = invisible decrease (see Special Stitches)
- sp = space
- ch sp = chain space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
Recommended Resources:
Special Stitches:
Invisible increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, then sc in both loops of same stitch.
Invisible decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook.
This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Picot: Ch 3, sl st in top of the previous stitch you made.
Instructions:
(Scroll down for video tutorial)
Ghost (make as many as desired)
Leave an 8 inch starting tail.
Loop:
Ch 6, join with sl st to form a circle.
Head:
Entire ghost is worked on the right side, do not turn your work. Head is worked in continuous rounds. Mark the first stitch of each round, and do not join at the end of the round.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 6 sc in same ch where you joined for loop. (6 sc)
Fold loop forward so you can continue to work around it.
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (Inc in next st, sc in next st) around. (18 sc)
Rnds 4-7: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 8: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sts)
Rnd 9: Dec in each st around. (6 sts)
Body:
Rnd 10: Inc in each st around, join with sl st to first st of round. (12 sc)
Rnd 11: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in first st, (ch 1, sk next st, 3 dc in next st, ch 2, 3 dc in next st) 3 times, ch 1, sk next st, 3dc in next st, ch 2, join with sl st to first st. (24 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 4 ch-1 sps)
Remainder of body, is a classic granny square. Work only into ch-sps, skipping any stitches. You can remove your stitch marker now if you like.
Rnd 12: Ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp (the last one before the join), *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, repeat from * twice more, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in starting ch-2 sp, ch 2, join with sl st to first st. (36 dc, 8 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnds 13-15: Ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, *ch 1, (3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) across to next ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, repeat from * twice more, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) across, 3 dc in starting ch-2 sp, ch 2, join with sl st to first st. (72 dc, 20 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps).
Edging:
Rnd 16: Ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, *(sk next st, sl st in next st, sk next st, 5 dc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times, sk next st, sl st in next st, sk next st, **(4 dc, picot, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, repeat from * around, eding at** on last repeat, (4 dc, picot) in starting ch-2 sp, join with sl st to first st, fasten off.
Finishing:
- Stuff head. Make sure starting tail sticks out through the stuffing at the neck, on the inside of your work. Loop should be sticking up on top of the head.
- Using starting tail, sew neck closed.
- Weave in both tails.
Garland:
- Ch 4, join with sl st to form a circle (loop made), (ch 20, sl st into a loop from a ghost) until all ghosts are attached, ch 24, sl st in 4th ch from hook (loop made).
- Fasten off, weave in all ends, hang as desired, using the loops.
Ghostly Garland – Video Tutorial:
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!