Free Crochet Patterns – Home Décor
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Free Pattern – Boo Blocks
Add a ghostly greeting to your Halloween decor with these Boo Blocks! Display them on a shelf, or hang them on the wall. The crocheted sleeves work up fast, and wrap securely around wooden blocks. They come off easily too, so after Halloween you can replace them with other letters or designs. Check out my Alphabet Letter Charts for all the letters!
I received the wood blocks for this design for free from Global Backyard Industries. My blocks were 1 5/8″ deep, but are no longer available. So I have modified the pattern to fit 2″ deep blocks, which are more readily available. You can find many options on Amazon, meant for carving or painting. The sample is shown in Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice yarn, #135 Rust & #173 Dusty Green, which I received free from Lion Brand.
This pattern contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Materials:
- 140 yds (total) worsted weight yarn in 2 colors.
- Four 4x4x2 inch Wood Blocks
- Size H / 5 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Skill Level:
Intermediate – Charted colorwork, some working into front loops only.
Size:
Fits 4″ x 4″ x 2″ wood blocks
Gauge:
13 sc x 16 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch – After round 1 of sides, work should just cover the front of the 4 inch block.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- MC = main color
- AC = accent color
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
- Changing Colors
- How to make a crochet graphghan on Nicki’s Homemade Crafts (shows how to follow the colorwork charts).
- Front loop only and back loop only on Moogly
Instructions:
For more even yarn usage, alternate which color is main and which is accent, between squares.
Front:
With MC ch 13
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each sc across.
Rows 2-14: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, changing colors according to one of the letter charts below.
Sides:
Sides are worked in turned rounds – it is important to turn your work with every round. Ch 3 at the start of a round counts as first dc throughout.
Rnd 1 (RS): With MC, ch 1, turn, sc in each st across top; working in sides of rows, work 12 sc evenly spaced across side; working in bottom of foundation chain, sc in each ch across; working in sides of rows, work 12 sc evenly spaced across other side, join with sl st to back loop only of first st. (48 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, turn, working in front loop only, dc in next st and each st around, join with sl st to first st. (48 dc)
Rnds 3-5: Ch 3, turn, working in both loops as normal, dc in next st and each st around, join with sl st to first st. (48 dc)
Note: Adjust the depth to fit your blocks by working more or fewer repeats of Rnd 3.
Rnd 6: Sl st in next 3 sts, ch 4, turn, (sk next 6 sts, sl st in next 6 sts, ch 4) 3 times, sk next 6 sts, sl st in next 5 sts. Fasten off. (4 corner loops)
Finishing:
Weave in ends.
Insert wood block, starting at one corner and working your way around (it will be tight).
Repeat instructions for the other 3 blocks, to spell the word BOO! (or BOB, or even BOOB….I won’t judge)
Charts:
Click on chart images to expand (opens in new tab or window)
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Stocking Ornament
Brighten up your holidays with this cute little stocking ornament. Hang it on your tree, tie it on a present, add it to a wreath or garland, or use it as a gift bag for a small gift. The pattern works up quickly and easily, which is good, because you’ll want to make a bunch of them! You can use any size yarn you like, so it’s a great scrapbuster too.
The sample pictured was made with some leftover Bonbons yarn, which I had received free from Lion Brand for another project.
This pattern contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Stocking Ornament
Materials:
- Any yarn – yardage will vary based on yarn size.
- Main color (A)
- Accent color (B)
- Appropriate hook for your yarn.
- Yarn needle
Skill Level:
Intermediate – single crochets in the round with some shaping and color changes.
Size / Gauge:
Exact gauge is not critical, use any size hook that you are comfortable with for your yarn. Size and yardage will vary depending on the yarn and hook used. The sample shown is about 4 inches tall, and 2 inches wide at the cuff. I used DK weight yarn, about 20-25 yds each of 2 colors, and a size G (4mm) hook.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet the next 2 stitches together.
- st(s) = stitch(es)
Recommended Resources:
- Continuous rounds and running stitch markers
- Why Continuous Rounds Shift
- (Almost) Invisible, Single Crochet Increase (alternative to 2 sc in next st)
- Invisible Single Crochet Decrease on Nicki’s Homemade Crafts – (alternative to sc2tog)
Instructions:
The entire pattern is worked on the right side, in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark the first stitch of each round.
Toe & Foot:
Rnd 1: With A, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) around. (9 sc)
Rnd 3: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around. (12 sc)
Rnd 4: Repeat rnd 3. (16 sc)
Rnds 5-10: Sc in each st around.
Ankle:
Rnd 11 (create opening for heel): Ch 8, sk next 8 sts, sc in next 8 sts. (8 sc, 8 chs)
Rnd 12: Sc in each ch and each sc around (16 sts)
Rnd 13-16: Sc in each st around, changing to B in last st of rnd 16. Cut A.
Cuff & Loop:
Rnds 17-28: With B, sc in each st around. Fasten off B.
Fold cuff over a little more than halfway, so that it just covers the color change from Rnd 16.
Loop: Join A with sl st at center back of folded cuff, centered above the heel opening. Ch 12, sl st in same st as joining, fasten off A.
Heel:
With right side facing, join B with sl st in first skipped st from rnd 11.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each of the 8 skipped sts from rnd 11, sc in side of row at edge of heel opening, sc in bottom of each of the 8 chs from rnd 11, sc in side of row at edge of heel opening. (18 sc)
Rnd 2: (Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, sc in next st) twice. (14 sts)
Rnd 3: (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, sc in next st) twice. (10 sts)
Rnd 4: (Sc2tog twice, sc in next st) twice. (6 sts)
Fasten off B, leaving a 6 inch tail. Use tail to sew last round of heel closed.
Finishing:
There is a tail at the top of the cuff. After folding the cuff over, sew that tail through to the inside of the stocking. This will help hold the cuff in place and allow you to weave that tail in more easily.
Turn stocking inside out and weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Ghostly Garland
Spooky, or cute? Whichever your Halloween decorating style, these little ghosts will fit right in! Make this Ghostly Garland in any size, with any weight of yarn. Decorate a staircase, mantle or wall with a long garland, or make just the ghosts to hang individually. A video tutorial is included below!
The Ghostly Garland was designed for the 2018 Halloween Crochet Along hosted by Underground Crafter and Oombawka Design Crochet. Visit the main 2018 Halloween Crochet Along post for more information on the event, links to the patterns, and instructions for entering the giveaway.
This pattern contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Materials:
- Worsted weight yarn – about 50 yds per ghost. (See Size and Gauge for information on using other size yarns)
- Size H / 5 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
- Fiber fill (enough to stuff the heads as desired)
Skill Level:
Intermediate – increases, decreases, picots.
Size:
Each ghost is roughly 6 to 6.5 inches tall. The 3-ghost garland is about 24 inches long (6 inches long per ghost, plus an extra 6 inches). You can make more or fewer ghosts for a longer or shorter garland. You can also use any size yarn or thread that you like, but the size of your ghost and the yardage needed will vary accordingly.
Gauge:
Exact gauge is not critical. Use any size hook that you are comfortable with, as long as the stitches are tight enough for the head so that stuffing won’t fall out.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- inc = invisible increase (see Special Stitches)
- dec = invisible decrease (see Special Stitches)
- sp = space
- ch sp = chain space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
Recommended Resources:
Special Stitches:
Invisible increase (inc): Sc in back loop only of indicated st, then sc in both loops of same stitch.
Invisible decrease (dec): Insert hook into front loop only of both of next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook.
This is an alternative to a single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) stitch. If you prefer, you can use the standard sc2tog instead.
Picot: Ch 3, sl st in top of the previous stitch you made.
Instructions:
(Scroll down for video tutorial)
Ghost (make as many as desired)
Leave an 8 inch starting tail.
Loop:
Ch 6, join with sl st to form a circle.
Head:
Entire ghost is worked on the right side, do not turn your work. Head is worked in continuous rounds. Mark the first stitch of each round, and do not join at the end of the round.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 6 sc in same ch where you joined for loop. (6 sc)
Fold loop forward so you can continue to work around it.
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (Inc in next st, sc in next st) around. (18 sc)
Rnds 4-7: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 8: (Dec, sc in next st) around. (12 sts)
Rnd 9: Dec in each st around. (6 sts)
Body:
Rnd 10: Inc in each st around, join with sl st to first st of round. (12 sc)
Rnd 11: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in first st, (ch 1, sk next st, 3 dc in next st, ch 2, 3 dc in next st) 3 times, ch 1, sk next st, 3dc in next st, ch 2, join with sl st to first st. (24 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 4 ch-1 sps)
Remainder of body, is a classic granny square. Work only into ch-sps, skipping any stitches. You can remove your stitch marker now if you like.
Rnd 12: Ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp (the last one before the join), *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, repeat from * twice more, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in starting ch-2 sp, ch 2, join with sl st to first st. (36 dc, 8 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnds 13-15: Ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, *ch 1, (3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) across to next ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, repeat from * twice more, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) across, 3 dc in starting ch-2 sp, ch 2, join with sl st to first st. (72 dc, 20 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps).
Edging:
Rnd 16: Ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, *(sk next st, sl st in next st, sk next st, 5 dc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times, sk next st, sl st in next st, sk next st, **(4 dc, picot, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, repeat from * around, eding at** on last repeat, (4 dc, picot) in starting ch-2 sp, join with sl st to first st, fasten off.
Finishing:
- Stuff head. Make sure starting tail sticks out through the stuffing at the neck, on the inside of your work. Loop should be sticking up on top of the head.
- Using starting tail, sew neck closed.
- Weave in both tails.
Garland:
- Ch 4, join with sl st to form a circle (loop made), (ch 20, sl st into a loop from a ghost) until all ghosts are attached, ch 24, sl st in 4th ch from hook (loop made).
- Fasten off, weave in all ends, hang as desired, using the loops.
Ghostly Garland – Video Tutorial:
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Modular Mitered Pillow
It’s time to get creative – mix them up, or make a matched set! Mitered squares in 2 different color patterns offer a kaleidoscope of possible combinations. Use one of the provided layouts, or make up your own. What will your Modular Mitered Pillow look like? A video tutorial for making the squares is included below!
The Modular Mitered Pillow pattern is part of the Christmas in July Crochet-Along. Check out the main Christmas in July CAL post for more information on the event, links to the patterns, and instructions for entering the giveaway!
The sample is shown in Plymouth Homestead yarn (worsted weight, 100% wool), in colors #9 Brick and #3 Brown Heather.
This pattern contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Materials:
- Worsted weight yarn
- 100 yds Red (A)
- 300 yds Grey/Brown (B)
- Size J / 6 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
- 14 inch square pillow form
Skill Level:
Intermediate – The stitches are easy, but the yarn management makes it a little more difficult.
Size:
14 inches square.
Gauge:
12 sc x 12 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch: each small square should measure 3.5 inches after blocking.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- sp = space
- ch sp = chain space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
(Scroll down for video tutorial on making the squares)
Note: All the instructions about leaving long tails and working over tails are only so that you can use those tails when doing the edging, rather than joining new bits of yarn (fewer ends). If you find these instructions confusing, ignore them and just join new yarns on the edging where needed.
Square 1 (Make 8):
With A, ch 2
Row 1 (WS): (Sc, ch 2, sc) in 2nd ch from hook. (2 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in last st, changing to B (4 sc)
Leave a 32 inch starting B tail. Cut A, leaving a 32 inch tail.
Row 3: Work over starting B tail on this row only, to carry it to the other side. With B, ch 1, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each st across. (6 sc)
Rows 4-9: Repeat row 3, but without working over tail. (18 sc)
Edging Rnd (RS):
- Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp, 3 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in each st across to last st, ch 3 in last st. (23 B sc)
- Working in sides of rows, work 7 sc evenly spaced in B rows, changing to the long tail of A, cut B. (7 B sc)
- With A, sc in side of next row, 3 sc corner, sc in side of next row, changing to the long tail of B in the last st. (5 A sc)
- With B, work 7 sc evenly spaced in sides of B rows, 2 sc in same st as start of rnd, join with sl st to first st, fasten off. (9 B sc)
Square 2 (Make 8):
With B, ch 2, leaving a 48 inch starting tail. For the first 7 rounds of this square you will be carrying this tail up one side.
Row 1 (WS): (sc, ch 2, sc) in 2nd ch from hook. (2 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each st across, carrying the long tail of B up in the last st. (4 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1 carrying the long tail of B up with the chain, turn, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each st across. (6 sc)
Rows 4-7: Repeat rows 2-3 twice more, changing to A at end of row 7. Fasten off B (14 sc)
Leave an 18 inch starting tail of A.
Rows 8-9: With A, ch 1, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each st across. (18 sc)
Edging Rnd (RS):
- Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp, 3 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in each st across to last st, ch 3 in last st. (23 A sc)
- Working in sides of rows, sc in side of next row, changing to the long tail of B, cut A. (1 A sc)
- With B, work 7 sc evenly spaced to corner, 3 sc in corner, work 7 sc evenly spaced in sides of B rows, changing to the long tail of A in the last st. (17 B sc)
- With A, sc in side of next row, 2 sc in same st as start of rnd, join with sl st to first st, fasten off. (3 A sc)
Back (Make 2):
With B, ch 12
Row 1 (WS): (Sc, ch 2, sc) in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 10 chs. (12 sc)
Rows 2-29: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each st across. (68 sc)
Edging Rnd (RS):
- Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp, 3 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in each st across to last st, ch 3 in last st. (73 sc)
- Working in sides of rows, work 38 sc evenly spaced to corner, 3 sc in corner, work 28 sc evenly in sides of rows to corner, 2 sc in same st as start of rnd, join with sl st to first st, fasten off. (71 sc)
Assembly:
Front:
Arrange squares as desired. Here are some possible arrangements.
With right sides facing, sew squares together using a whipstitch through the wrong side loops only as follows:
- Wherever two A edges meet, use A for the seam
- In all other cases (A & B, or 2 B edges), use B for the seam.
Weave in all ends on front.
Back:
With right sides together, place back pieces and front piece together, lining up the outside edges. Back pieces should overlap in the middle by 20 edge stitches. On both the front and the back, you should have 40 stitches along each outside edge, plus 1 stitch in each corner. Use stitch markers or scraps of yarn to secure pieces in place temporarily if desired.
Using B, with a whipstitch seam through wrong side loops only, sew through all layers around outside edge of pillow only.
Weave in all ends, turn pillow right side out. Insert pillow form through the opening in the back.
Video Tutorial:
This tutorial shows how to make both types of squares for the front of the pillow.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Stars and Stripes Washcloth
Celebrate this summer with the Stars & Stripes Washcloth! This design works well for team or school colors too. The star stitch pattern is fast and fun to make, and gives the washcloth its fabulous, scrubby texture. A photo and video tutorial for the crochet star stitch is also available.
This pattern contains sponsored content and affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
The Stars & Stripes Washcloth was designed for the CAL Central 2018 Washcloth Crochet-Along. Join in the fun on the CAL Central Facebook group or Ravelry group! Also be sure to visit the main Washcloth CAL post for more information on the event, links to the patterns, and instructions for entering the giveaway. There are some wonderful prizes!
Cascade Yarns has generously provided all the designers with their Ultra Pima yarn for free, to use for our designs. It’s a soft and luxurious, 100% cotton yarn, with a lovely shine.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Stars and Stripes Washcloth
Add this to your Ravelry Queue
Materials:
- Cascade Ultra Pima cotton, DK weight yarn
- 30 yds #3713 Wine (A)
- 30 yds #3728 White (B)
- 65 yds #3800 Blueberry (C)
- Size H / 5 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Skill Level:
Intermediate – Star stitch.
Size:
9 inches square.
Gauge:
21 sc x 23 rows = 4 inches. Use pattern as gauge swatch: After Row 7, your work should measure about 9 inches x 2 inches.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- star = star stitch (see Special Stitch)
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- yo = yarn over
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
Special Stitch – Star Stitch:
See this Crochet Star Stitch Tutorial for a more detailed look.
Anatomy of a Star – Each star stitch is a cluster of 6 loops. The chain at the end forms the eye, the 6 loops form the legs, and the last chain worked into is the base.
Star Stitch (star) – Working into the previous star, pick up one loop in the eye, one loop in the last leg, and one loop at the base, pick up a loop in each of next 2 chs, yo and draw through all 6 loops on hook, ch 1.
Instructions:
With A, ch 50 (multiple of 2 + 6).
First Red (A) Stripe:
Row 1 (RS): Sk first ch, pick up a loop in each of next 5 chs, yo and draw through all 6 loops on hook, ch 1 (first star made); work star stitch across (see Special Stitch), hdc in base of last star (this should be the last ch). (23 stars)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first hdc, sc in eye of next star, 2 sc in eye of each star across, sc in corner (top of turning ch from previous row), changing to B. Fasten off A. (47 sc)
White (B) Stripe:
Row 3: With B, turn, ch 2, sk first ch, pick up a loop in front loop of next ch, pick up a loop in back loop of same ch, pick up a loop in each of next 3 sts, yo and draw through all 6 loops on hook, ch 1 (first star made); work star stitch across, hdc in base of last star. (23 stars)
Row 4: With B, repeat row 2, changing to A at end of row. Fasten off B.
Red (A) Stripe:
Row 5: With A, repeat row 3.
Row 6: Repeat row 2.
Rows 7-15: Repeat rows 3-6 twice, then repeat row 3 once more.
Row 16: Repeat row 4, changing to C at end of row. Fasten off B.
You should now have a total of 4 red stripes and 4 white stripes.
Rows 17-34: With C, and without changing colors, repeat rows 3-4 nine times.
Fasten off, weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches n Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches n Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Easy Crochet Pillow Pattern – Tryst
Fall in love with the delicate, lacy texture of the Tryst crochet pillow pattern! Tiny triangles inside of triangles give the feel of lace, but without the holes, while the geometric design compliments almost any decor. With overlapping layers at the back, you can easily remove the cover for cleaning too!
This post contains sponsored content and/or affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, I may get a commission.
Cascade Cherub Aran
The sample is shown in Cascade Yarns Cherub Aran, which I received free in a goody bag at a conference. It’s a machine washable blend of nylon and acrylic. This blend makes it strong, but also soft and shiny. The color I used is #11 Key Lime.
Pillow Forms
Since this is a removable cover, I use it on all my 14 inch pillow forms interchangeably. For the images, I think it was on my Mountain Mist pillow form which is puffier and not as perfectly square as some of the others I have. You can see all my favorite pillow forms and stuffings on my Amazon storefront!
Tryst Crochet Pillow Pattern
Materials
- Yarn: 450 yds worsted weight yarn.
- Hook: Size H / 5.0 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Notions:
- 4 locking stitch markers
- Yarn needle
- 14 inch, square pillow form
Project Level
Intermediate: Working into skipped stitches from previous row. Fair amount of counting / concentration needed for pattern section.
Size
14 inch square.
Gauge
14 dc x 9 rows = 4 inches.
Abbreviations
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
mod-sc = modified sc (see Special Stitch)
st(s) = stitch(es)
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
Special Stitch:
Modified Single Crochet (mod-sc)
Insert hook under next ch-5 loop (from 2 rows below), then complete single crochet in indicated stitch as normal. You are working the single crochet through both the loop and the stitch together, to anchor the loop into place. This stitch counts as an sc in the stitch counts listed at the end of the rows.
Instructions:
Scroll down for chart
Chain 51.
Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a dc throughout
Bottom half of back:
Row 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each st across. (49 dc)
Rows 2-20: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st across.
Front:
Row 21 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in next st) across. (13 sc, 12 ch-5 loops)
When working a dc into a skipped st below a ch-5 loop, always hold the loop out of the way at the back (RS) of your work. The dc stitches should be worked in front of the loop.
Row 22: Ch 1, turn, sc in first sc, (dc in 3 skipped sts below next ch-5 loop, sc in next sc) across. (13 sc, 36 dc)
Row 23: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *sc in next st, (mod-sc in next st, ch 5, sk next 3 sts) twice, mod-sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, Repeat from * across. (25 sc, 8 ch-5 loops)
Row 24: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *sc in next 2 st, (dc in 3 skipped sts below next ch-5 loop, sc in next st) twice, sc in next 2 sts, repeat from * across. (25 sc, 24 dc)
Row 25: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *sc in next 3 sts, mod-sc in next st, ch 5, sk next 3 sts, mod-sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, repeat from * across. (37 sc, 4 ch-5 loops)
Row 26: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *sc in next 4 sts, dc in 3 skipped sts below next ch-5 loop, sc in next 5 sts, repeat from * across. (37 sc, 12 dc)
Row 27: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, *ch 5, sk next 3 sts, mod-sc in next st, (ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in next st) twice, repeat from * twice more, ch 5, sk next 3 sts, mod-sc in next st, ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in last 3 sts. (16 sc, 11 ch-5 loops)
Row 28: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, (dc in 3 skipped sts below next ch-5 loop, sc in next st) across to last 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts. (16 sc, 33 dc)
Row 29: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, ch 5, sk next 3 sts, mod-sc in next st, *sc in next 3 sts, (mod sc in next st, ch 5, sk next 3 sts) twice, mod-sc in next st, repeat from * twice more, sc in next 3 sts, mod sc in next st, ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in last st. (25 sc, 8 ch-5 loops)
Row 30: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (dc in 3 skipped sts below next ch-5 loop, sc in next 5 sts, dc in 3 skipped sts below next ch-5 loop, sc in next st) four times. (25 sc, 24 dc)
Row 31: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 sts, (mod-sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts, mod sc in next st, ch 5, sk next 3 sts) three times, mod-sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts, mod-sc in next st, sc in last 2 sts. (40 sc, 3 ch-5 loops)
Row 32: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 11 sts, (dc in 3 skipped sts below next ch-5 loop, sc in next 9 sts) 3 times, sc in last 2 sts. (40 sc, 9 dc)
Row 33: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *(ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in next st) twice, ch 5, sk next 3 sts, mod-sc in next st, Repeat from * twice more, (ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in next st) three times. (13 sc, 12 ch-5 loops)
Row 34: Repeat Row 22.
Rows 35-82: Repeat rows 23-34 four more times.
Row 83 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (sc in next st, mod sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) across.
Top half of back:
Rows 84-104: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across. Do not fasten off.
Edging (RS):
- Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (49 sc)
- Ch 1, working in sides of rows, work 32 sc evenly spaced across top half of back (rows 104-84), place marker in last st worked. Work 50 sc evenly spaced across front (rows 83-21). Place marker in the next stitch you make. Work 30 sc evenly spaced across bottom half of back (rows 20-1). (109 sc)
- Ch 1, working across bottom of foundation chain, sc in each st across. (49 sc)
- Ch 1, working in sides of rows, work 30 sc evenly spaced across bottom half of back (rows 1-20), place marker in last st worked. Work 50 sc evenly spaced across front (rows 21-83). Place marker in the next st you make. Work 32 sc evenly spaced across top half of back (rows 84-104). Join with sl st to first st of edging. Fasten off. (110 sc)
Chart
Finishing:
Lay work flat with right side up.
Using the stitch markers as a guide, fold top half of back down, then fold bottom half of back up. Back sections should overlap by 13 edging stitches (about 3.75 inches).
Sewing through all layers, sew side seams. Remove all markers and weave in all ends.
Turn pillow right-side-out and insert pillow form.
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I hope you enjoyed this crochet pillow pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – 5 Minute Wine Glass Charms
Grab your box of buttons – you know the one. In just 5 minutes, take your mismatched favorites and turn them into these cute wine glass charms! These make great hostess gifts too, and you can have a whole set ready in no time!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
5 Minute Wine Glass Charms
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Materials:
- 2-5 yds, worsted weight yarn
- Size G / 4.0 mm hook
- 3/4 inch button
- Yarn needle
Difficulty:
Easy – All chains and slip stitches.
Size:
Approximately 3 inches long, not counting button.
Gauge:
13 sl sts = 3 inches. Exact gauge is not important for this project.
Abbreviations:
- ch = chain
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sl st = slip stitch
Instructions:
Chain 15. Sl st in 6th ch from hook and each ch across. Fasten off.
Your starting and ending tails should now be on the same side, and there should be a ch 5 loop at the other end.
If your button holes are big enough, thread one of the tails through your button. A beading needle or piece of floss can be helpful for this.
Slide button down as close as possible to the end of your work, and tie a knot with both tails to secure it. Weave in both tails.
If your button holes are too small, weave in both tails first and then sew the button on with thread.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern.
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Reinventing the Wheel
Linked double crochet stitches give this pattern a dense, but still flexible texture. It works well as either a trivet or a washcloth. With only 7 rounds, it works up really quickly too!
Reinventing the Wheel
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Materials:
- Worsted weight, cotton yarn
- 40 yds blue (A)
- 20 yds gold (B)
- Size H (5 mm) hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Yarn or tapestry needle
Difficulty:
Intermediate – Repetitive pattern with only 2 stitches and few color changes, but the stitches may be unfamiliar.
Size:
About 8 inches diameter
Gauge:
13 dc x 7 rows = 4 inches. Exact gauge is not critical.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- ldc = linked double crochet
- lsdt = linked spike double treble crochet
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- sl st = slip stitch
- sk = skip
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
Special Stitches:
Linked Double Crochet (ldc): (Click for full tutorial)
First stitch after turning chain: Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, draw up a loop. Insert hook into indicated stitch, draw up a loop. (Yarn over, draw through 2 loops on hook) twice.
Remaining stitches: Insert hook into horizontal / diagonal bar at the middle of the last st, draw up a loop. Insert hook into indicated stitch, draw up a loop. (Yarn over, draw through 2 loops on hook) twice.
Linked Spike Double Treble (lsdt): Insert hook into horizontal / diagonal bar from middle of last st, draw up a loop. Yarn over twice. Insert hook from bottom to top, into horizontal bar of indicated stitch (which will be 2 rows below), and draw up a loop. there should be 5 loops on your hook. (Yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook) 4 times. Do NOT skip the stitch behind the lsdt
Instructions:
With A, make a magic loop, leaving a fairly long starting tail (about 10 inches or so).
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as ldc, now and throughout), work 11 ldc inside magic loop, pull loop closed, join. (12 sts)
Note: Do NOT turn when starting a new round. Entire piece is worked on the right side.
Rnd 2: Ch 3, ldc in same st, 2 ldc in each remaining st, join. (24 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 3, ldc in same st, (ldc in next st, 2 ldc in next st) 11 times, ldc in last st, join. (36 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 3, ldc in same st, (ldc in next 2 sts, 2 ldc in next st) 11 times, ldc in last 2 sts, join, changing to B. (48 sts)
Note: You may find it helpful to mark the 3rd st of round 5 as you will be working into it later.
Rnd 5: With B, ch 3, ldc in same st, (ldc in next 3 sts, 2 ldc in next st) 11 times, ldc in last 3 sts, join, changing to A. (60 sts)
Rnd 6: With A, ch 3, ldc in same st, (ldc in next 4 sts, 2 ldc in next st) 11 times, ldc in last 4 sts, join, changing to B. (72 sts)
Rnd 7: With B, ch 3, ldc in next 2 sts, lsdt in 3rd st from rnd 5, (ldc in next 6 sts, sk next 4 sts on rnd 5, lsdt in next st on rnd 5) 11 times, ldc in last 3 sts, join. Fasten off. (84 sts)
Use the tails to sew closed any gaps at the start of the rounds, then weave them in. To make the join less noticeable, you can sew a horizontal bar across the middle of each starting chain.
I hope you enjoy the pattern. Thanks to Carrey Rey for testing it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Textured Tree Skirt
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Wrap your holiday tree in the simple elegance of this textured tree skirt. It’s made in Red Heart Holiday yarn, which is soft and puffy with a festive shimmer. Seed stitch gives it a subtle, all over texture, highlighted by lacy corner increases. The ribbon-like border adds a splash of color, finished with a decorative fan and picot edge.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Textured Tree Skirt
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Materials:
- Red Heart Holiday Yarn
- 4 [6, 8] skeins cream/gold
- 1 skein red/red
- Size H/8 (5 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn or Tapestry needle
- 1 stitch marker
Difficulty:
Easy – Worked in the round, basic stitches. Edging uses spike stitches, but tutorial links are provided.
Sizes:
Instructions are given for a diameter (point to point) of 36 inches, with changes for 48 and 60 inches in [ ]. For all 3 sizes, the center hole is about 5 inches in diameter, not counting the edging.
Gauge:
13 sc x 15 rows = 4″. Exact gauge is not critical. You can use the first few rows as your gauge swatch – after row 4, your piece should be approximately 8 inches across from corner to corner, including the center hole. The center hole should be about 5″.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- spdc = spike double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
Recommended Resources:
- Tutorial – Changing Colors
- How to Crochet Spike Stitches by Moogly
- Edging – Shells and picots
- Edging – Working Evenly Across/Around
Special Stitches:
- Picot: Sl st in indicated st or sp, ch 3, sl st in same st or sp.
- Spike double crochet (spdc): Yarn over, Insert hook in indicated stitch (3 rows below next st), draw up loop to height of current row, (yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook) twice, skip the st directly above the spdc. Note: The spdc is worked around (not in front of or behind) the stitches above it.
Instructions:
Skirt:
Row 1 (RS): Ch 55, sc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in same ch, *(sc in next ch, dc in next ch) 4 times, ch 2, dc in next ch, repeat from * 4 more times, (sc in next ch, dc in next ch) 4 times. (55 sts, 5 sps)
Note: Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a dc.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn, sc in first (same) st, *(dc in next sc, sc in next dc) across to next sp, ch 2, sc in sp, ch 2, sc in next dc, repeat from * 4 more times, (dc in next sc, sc in next dc) across to last st, dc in last st. (61 sts, 10 sps)
Row 3: Ch 3, turn, sc in first (same) st, *dc in next sc, (sc in next dc, dc in next sc) across to next sp, sc in sp, ch 2, sk next sc, sc in next sp, repeat from * 4 more times, (sc in next dc, dc in next sc) across to last st, sc in last st. (67 sts, 5 sps)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, dc in same st, *(sc in next dc, dc in next sc) across to next sp, ch 2, sc in sp, ch 2, dc in next sc, repeat from * 4 more times, (sc in next dc, dc in next sc) across to last st, sc in last st. (73 sts, 10 sps).
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, dc in same st, *sc in next dc, (dc in next sc, sc in next dc) across to next sp, sc in sp, ch 2, sk next sc, sc in next sp, rep from * 4 more times, (sc in next dc, dc in next sc) across. (79 sts, 5 sps)
Row 6: Ch 3, turn, sc in first (same) st, *dc in next sc, (sc in next dc, dc in next sc) across to st before next sp, sc in next sc, ch 2, sc in sp, ch 2, sc in next sc, repeat from * 4 more times, (dc in next sc, sc in next dc) across to last st, dc in last st. (85 sts, 10 sps)
Rows 7 – 42 [58, 74] : Repeat rows 3-6 nine [thirteen, seventeen] more times, changing to red at end of last row. (on last row: 301 [397, 493] sts, 10 sps)
Border:
Row 1 (RS): With red, ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, *sc in each st across to next sp, sc in sp, ch 2, sk next sc, sc in next sp, repeat from * 4 more times, sc in each st across, change to cream in last st. (307 [403, 499] sts, 5 sps)
Row 2: With cream, ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, *sc in each st across to next sp, ch 2, sc in sp, ch 2, repeat from * 4 more times, sc in each st across, changing to red in last st. (313 [409, 505] sts, 10 sps).
36″ only:
Note: Multiple of 5 sts + 3 on row 2.
Row 3: With red: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, *(ch 1, sk next st, sc in next 4 sts) 10 times, ch 1, sk next st,** sc in next sp, ch 2 (corner), sk next sc, sc in next sp, rep from * 5 more times ending at ** on last repeat, sc in last st. (253 sts, 66 ch-1 sps, 5 corner sps).
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, *sc in each st and sp across to next corner sp, ch 2, sc in corner sp, ch 2, repeat from * 4 more times, sc in each st and sp across, changing to cream in last st. (325 sts, 10 sps).
Row 5: With cream, ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *sk next st, 5 spdc in skipped st 3 rows below next st, (sk next 4 sts, 5 spdc in skipped st 3 rows below next st) 10 times, sk next st,** sk next sp, ch 2, sk next st, sk next sp, repeat from * 5 more times ending at ** on last repeat, sc in last st. Mark last st for later joining. (332 sts, 5 sps)
Row 6: Turn, picot in first sc, ch 2, *(sl st in next dc, ch 3, sk next dc, picot in next dc, ch 3, sk next dc, sl st in next dc) 11 times, ch 2,** picot in next sp, ch 2, repeat from * 5 more times, ending at ** on last repeat, picot in last st. (73 picots)
Fasten off.
48″ only:
Note: Multiple of 5 sts + 4 on row 2.
Row 3: With red: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, *(ch 1, sk next st, sc in next 4 sts) 13 times, ch 1, sk next st,** sc in next st, sc in next sp, ch 2 (corner), sk next sc, sc in next sp, rep from * 5 more times ending at ** on last repeat, sc in last 2 sts. (331 sts, 84 ch-1 sps, 5 corner sps).
Row 4: Repeat as for row 4 of 36″ size. (421 sts,10 sps)
Row 5: With cream, ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *sk next st, 5 spdc in skipped st 3 rows below next st, (sk next 4 sts, 5 spdc in skipped st 3 rows below next st) 13 times, sk next 2 sts,** sc in next sp, ch 1, sk next st, sc in next sp, repeat from * 5 more times ending at ** on last repeat, sc in last st. Mark last st for later joining. (431 sts, 5 sps)
Row 6: Turn, picot in first sc, *ch 3, sk next sc, (sl st in next dc, ch 3, sk next dc, picot in next dc, ch 3, sk next dc, sl st in next dc) 14 times, ch 3, sk next sc,** picot in next sp, repeat from * 5 more times, ending at ** on last repeat, picot in last st. (91 picots)
Fasten off.
60″ only:
Note: Multiple of 5 sts on row 2.
Row 3: With red: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, *sc in next st, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next 4 sts) 16 times, ch 1, sk next st,** sc in next st, sc in next sp, ch 2 (corner), sk next sc, sc in next sp, rep from * 5 more times ending at ** on last repeat, sc in last 2 sts. (409 sts, 102 ch-1 sps, 5 corner sps).
Row 4: Repeat as for row 4 of 36″ size. (517 sts, 10 sps)
Row 5: With cream, ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, *sk next 2 sts, 5 spdc in skipped st 3 rows below next st, (sk next 4 sts, 5 spdc in skipped st 3 rows below next st) 16 times, sk next 2 sts,** sc in next sp, ch 2, sk next sc, ch 2, sc in next sp, repeat from * 5 more times ending at ** on last repeat, 2 sc in last st. Mark last st for later joining. (524 sts, 10 sps)
Row 6: Turn, picot in first sc, ch 3, sk next sc, *(sl st in next dc, ch 3, sk next dc, picot in next dc, ch 3, sk next dc, sl st in next dc) 17 times,** ch 3, sk next sc, picot in next sp, ch 3, sk next sc, repeat from * 5 more times, ending at ** on last repeat, ch 3, sk next sc, picot in last sc. (109 picots).
Inside Edging:
With RS facing, join cream in marked st.
- Ch 1, working in sides of rows, work 60 [80, 100] sc evenly spaced to bottom of row 1 of skirt (60 [80, 100] sc)
- Ch 1, working along bottom of row 1 (around center hole), sc in bottom of each ch across. (54 sc)
- Ch 1, working in sides of rows, work 60 [80, 100] sc evenly spaced to beginning of rnd, sl st in first st of round, fasten off. (60 [80, 100] sc)
Weave in all ends.
Note: Washing and blocking or drying flat is recommended, as it will make the lacy sections open up.
Optional: For a little extra decorative touch, consider adding these Little Frog closures along the opening.
I hope you enjoy the pattern. Thanks to gtcmom for testing it!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Caterpillar Crochet Scrubby Set
Quick and easy mini scrubbies combine to form this cute caterpillar crochet scrubby set, perfect for gifting! Each scrubby takes only a few minutes to make and has a convenient finger strap. These little pads have loads of scrubbing power, and dry quickly too!
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Red Heart Scrubby Yarn
These scrubbies are made with two types of Red Heart Scrubby yarns, which I received free from Red Heart for this design. I used Scrubby Sparkle in Lemon, and regular Scrubby in Green Tea. There are so many fun color combinations to try!
The regular scrubby yarn is great in the kitchen or as an exfoliating bath scrubber. The sparkle version is shiny and fun – I feel like it’s a little rougher and would be great for those really tough scouring jobs.
Materials
- 100 yds Red Heart Scrubby and/or Red Heart Scrubby Sparkle – 100% Polyester yarn (174 yds / 3 oz / 85 g per skein)
- Size 9 / 5.5 mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain desired texture
- 2 -3 pipe cleaners
- Yarn or Tapestry needle
Project Level
Intermediate: Instructions are easy, but textured yarn makes it more difficult to see stitches.
Size
About 6-8 inches long when complete. Size will vary depending on your gauge and how many scrubber pads you make.
Gauge
14 sc x 13 rows = 4 inches. Gauge is not particularly important for this pattern. Use a hook that gives you a texture / stiffness that you like for the scrubbies. If you’re using both Scrubby and Scrubby Sparkle, you may even want to use different hooks for each.
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- dc2tog = double crochet next 2 stitches together
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources
- Double Crochet 2 Together (dc2tog) by Jessie at Home
- Simple Closing Method for Hats & Mittens by Oombawka Designs (You can use the same method to sew the hole closed at the end of your scrubby).
Instructions
Scrubby (Make 6-8 as desired)
Rnd 1 (WS): Ch 4, 11 dc in 4th ch from hook (3 skipped chs count as first dc), join with sl st in first st. (12 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), dc in first st, 2 dc in each st around. (24 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in first 12 sts, ch 10 (strap), flip work over so strap lays across RS of work, sl st in first st of round,
ch 1, turn, hdc in each of 10 chs just made (strap made), flip work over to continue on WS,
flip work back over to continue on the WS, sc in remaining 12 sts from rnd 2, sl st in side of strap,
join with sl st to first sc of round. (24 sc around, 10 hdc on strap)
Weave in starting tail (it will become inaccessible later)
Rnd 4: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), ignoring strap, sk first st, dc in next st, dc2tog 11 times, join. (12 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, sk first st, dc in next st, dc2tog 5 times, fasten off. (6 sts)
Use tails to sew holes closed, then weave in ends.
Assembly
Slide scrubbies onto a pipe cleaner in desired order, making sure that the scrubbies on the ends have their straps facing the scrubby next to them (you shouldn’t see any straps). Leave about 2 inches of pipe cleaner unused at the back end.
Fold over one end of pipe cleaner (back of caterpillar) and tuck it inside to secure.
Trim other end of pipe cleaner to about 2 inches, and fold it over in the same way. Try to get it as tight as possible, but don’t worry if there’s a little give – That will allow for more shaping.
Cut a 5 inch piece of pipe cleaner. Insert it through top of front scrubby and curl ends around a pencil to form antennae.
Cut two 2-inch pieces of pipe cleaner for the eyes. On each piece, roll one end around an embroidery needle as shown, leaving a small, uncurled bit at the end. Attach eyes to front scrubby by inserting the straight end.
Optional: Cut 3-inch pieces of pipe cleaner for legs, thread them through the bottoms of the scrubbies, and shape into feet. Be sure to fold over any sharp ends.
To remove scrubbies for use, pull out back end of pipe cleaner, and slide them off from the back. Remove any pipe cleaner pieces before using scrubby.
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