Free Crochet Patterns – Babies and Children
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Rolling Hills Crochet Baby Sweater Pattern
Keep baby comfy and cozy in style with the Rolling Hills Sweater. Rows of gently rolling hills fade into the body of this simple crochet baby sweater. Made in fingering weight yarn, it’s soft and lightweight, perfect for cooler fall or spring temps. With 5 sizes to choose from, it makes a great gift too!
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Yarn Choices
This crochet baby sweater was a gift for a friend who has just had a baby, and I had the perfect yarn for it in my stash. I found this Sandnes Garn Babyull Lanett yarn on sale at a local yarn store. It’s a buttery soft, fingering-weight, wool baby yarn. I picked up a lot of it, in 4 coordinating shades, intending to weave a blanket. The weaving didn’t work out, and I still have a big bag of yarn left.
Ravelry lists this yarn as light fingering, (a 0 on the CYC scale rather than a 1). But I found it worked up similarly to other fingering-weight sock yarns. Any soft, fingering-weight yarn will work for this crochet baby sweater pattern. It’s a great way to use up leftover sock yarn!
Materials
- Yarn: Fingering weight yarn (see note below)
- 205 [250, 290, 345, 395] yds color A
- 15 [15, 15, 20, 20] yds each colors B-D
- 85 [90, 120, 140, 175] yds color E
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
Sample shown in Sandnes Garn Babyull Lanett 100% merino wool yarn (191yds / 1.76 oz / 50 g per skein), colors 4855 (A), 3161 (B), 4583 (C) and 4622 (D).
Note: This yarn is listed as “light fingering” on Ravelry, but I felt it worked up like a regular fingering weight.
Project Level
Intermediate: Working in rows and both turned and un-turned rounds, short rows, easy repeating stitch pattern
Sizes
1 [2, 3, 4, 5]
To fit 3 mo [6 mo, 12-18 mo, 2T, 4T]
Chest (A): 16 [17.5, 19.25, 20.75, 22.5] inches / 40 [43.8, 48.1, 51.9, 56.3] cm
Length (B): 9.25 [10, 10.75, 11.5, 12.25] inches / 23.1 [25, 26.9, 28.8, 30.6] cm
Armhole Depth (C): 3.75 [4.25, 4.25, 4.5, 4.5] inches / 9.4 [10.6, 10.6, 11.3, 11.3] cm
Sleeve Length (D): 5.25 [6, 6.75, 7.75, 8.75] inches / 13.1 [15, 16.9, 19.4, 21.9] cm
Gauge
20 sc x 24 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm
Abbreviations used
This pattern uses US terms.
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet
- rem = remain / remaining
- rep = repeat
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet next 2 stitches together.
- sl st = slip stitch
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources
Instructions
Body
Hem Ribbing
With E, Ch 82 [90, 98, 106, 114]
Rnd 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook (3 skipped chs count as first dc) and in each rem ch across, join with sl st in first st. (80 [88, 96, 104, 112] sts)
Note: Joining after Rnd 1 instead of at foundation ch makes it easier to join without twisting. This will leave a small gap at bottom of hem. Sew this gap closed when weaving in ends.
Rnd 2 (RS): Ch 2 (counts as bpdc throughout), do not turn, fpdc around next st, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] around, join with sl st in first st.
[Rep Rnd 2] 3 [3, 5, 5, 7] times more for a total of 5 [5, 7, 7, 9] rnds.
Hills
Note: To change color at end of rnd, work joining sl st in new color. Cut previous color leaving a tail to weave in later.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first st, *hdc in next st, dc in next st, tr in each of next 2 sts, dc in next st, hdc in next st,** sc in each of next 2 sts; rep from * around ending at ** on last rep, sc in last st, join with sl st in first sc. (20 [22, 24, 26, 28] each of sc, hdc, dc, and tr)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join with sl st in first st, change to D.
Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as tr), turn, *dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts, hdc in next st, dc in next st,* tr in each of next 2 sts; rep from * around ending at ** on last rep, tr in last st, join with sl st in first tr.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join with sl st in first st, change to C
Rnd 5: Rep Rnd 1.
Rnd 6: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join with sl st in first st, change to B
Rnd 7: Rep Rnd 3.
Rnd 8: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join with sl st in first st, change to A
Straight Section
Rnd 1: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around. (80 [88, 96, 104, 112] sc)
[Rep Rnd 1] 11 [13, 15, 17, 19], ending after Rnd 12 [14, 16, 18, 20].
Body Chart
Back
Row 1 (RS): Turn, sl st in first 1 [1, 1, 2, 2] sts, ch 1, sc in next 38 [41, 45, 48, 52] sts, sc2tog, leave rem sts unworked. (39 [42, 46, 49, 53] sts)
Rows 2-20: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 21: Turn, sl st in first 2 sts, ch 1, sc in next st and each st across. (37 [40, 44, 47, 51] sc)
Size 1 only
Row 22: Turn, sl st in first 2 sts, ch 1, sc in next sc and each sc across, sc in next 2 sl sts. (37 sc)
Row 23: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 9 sts, sl st in next 21 sts, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next 2 sl sts. (9 sc for each shoulder).
Fasten off.
Back Size 1 Chart
Sizes 2 & 3 only
Row 22: Turn, sl st in first 2 sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and each sc across to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [37, 41, -, -] sc)
Row 23: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and each sc across to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [35, 39, -, -] sc)
Left Back Shoulder
Row 24-L: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in each of next – [5, 7, -, -] sc, sc2tog, leave rem sts unworked. (- [6, 8, -, -] sts)
Row 25-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next sl st, sc in each of next 3 sl sts from previous rows. (- [10, 12, -, -] sc)
Fasten off.
Right Back Shoulder
With WS facing and working in unworked sts of Row 23, sk first 20 unworked sts, join A with sl st in next st.
Row 24-R: Ch 1, sk first st, sc in each rem sc across, sc in next sl st, sc in next 3 sl sts from previous rows. (- [10, 12, -, -] sc)
Row 25-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Fasten off.
Back Sizes 2 & 3 Chart
Sizes 4 & 5 only
Row 22: Turn, sl st in first 2 sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and in each sc across to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [-, -, 44, 48] sc)
Row 23: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and each sc across to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [-, -, 42, 46] sc)
Left Back Shoulder
Row 24-L: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in each of next – [-, -, 8, 9] sc, sc2tog, leave rem sts unworked. (- [-, -, 9, 10] sc)
Row 25-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [-, -, 8, 9] sc)
Row 26-L: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and each rem sc across. ( – [-, -, 7, 8] sc)
Row 27-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next sl st, sc in each of next 5 sl sts from previous rows. ( – [-, -, 13, 14] sc)
Fasten off.
Right Back Shoulder
With WS facing and working in unworked sts of Row 23, sk first – [-, -, 21, 23] unworked sts, join A with sl st in next st.
Row 24-R: Ch 1, sk first sc, sc in each sc to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [-, -, 8, 9] sc)
Row 25-R: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and each rem sc across. ( – [-, -, 7, 8] sc)
Row 26-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next sl st, sc in each of next 5 sl sts from previous rows. ( – [-, -, 13, 14] sc)
Row 27-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Fasten off.
Back Sizes 4 & 5 Chart
Front
Size 1 only
With RS facing and working into last rnd of Body, join A with sl st in same st as last leg of last sc2tog of Row 1 of Back.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in next 38 sts, sc2tog, leave rem sts unworked. (39 sc)
Note: Last leg of sc2tog will be in first sl st of Back.
Rows 2-13: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Front Right Shoulder
Row 14-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 10 sc, sc2tog. (11 sc)
Row 15-R: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc in each rem st across. (10 sc)
Row 16-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (9 sc)
Rows 17-R – 21-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 22-R: Turn, sl st in first 2 sts, ch 1, sc in next st and each rem st across. (7 sc)
Row 23-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next 2 sl sts. (9 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing shoulder seam.
Front Left Shoulder
With WS facing and working in unworked sts of Row 13, sk first 15 unworked sts, join A with sl st in next st.
Row 14-L: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc in each rem st across. (11 sc)
Row 15-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (10 sc)
Row 16-L: Rep Row 14-L. (9 sc)
Rows 17-L – 20-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 21-L: Turn, sl st in first 2 sts, ch 1, sc in next st and each rem st across. (7 sc)
Row 22-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next 2 sl sts. (9 sc)
Row 23-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Front Size 1 Chart
Sizes 2 & 3 only
With RS facing and working into unworked sts on last rnd of Body, join A with sl st in first unworked st.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in next – [41, 45, -, -] sts, sc2tog, leave rem sts unworked. (- [42, 46, -, -] sc)
Rows 2-13: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Front Right Shoulder
Row 14-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in first – [12, 14, -, -] sc, sc2tog. (- [13, 15, -, -] sc)
Row 15-R: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc in each rem st across. (- [12, 14, -, -] sc)
Row 16-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (- [11, 13, -, -] sc)
Row 17-R: Rep Row 15-R. (- [10, 12, -, -] sc)
Rows 18-R – 21-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Row 22-R: Turn, sl st in first 2 sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and each rem sc across. (- [8, 10, -, -] sc)
Row 23-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [7, 9, -, -] sc)
Row 24-R: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and each rem sc across. (- [6, 8, -, -] sc)
Row 25-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next sl st, sc in next 3 sl sts from previous rows. (- [10, 12, -, -] sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing shoulder seam.
Front Left Shoulder
With WS facing and working in unworked sts of Row 13, sk first 14 unworked sts, join A with sl st in next st.
Row 14-L: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc in each rem st across. (- [13, 15, -, -] sc)
Row 15-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (- [12, 14, -, -] sc)
Rows 16-L & 17-L: Rep Rows 14-L & 15-L. (- [10, 12, -, -] sc)
Rows 18-L – 20-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 21-L: Turn, sl st in first 2 sts, ch 1, sc in next st and in each rem st across. (- [8, 10, -, -] sc)
Row 22-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [7, 9, -, -] sc)
Row 23-L: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and in each rem sc across. (- [6, 8, -, -] sc)
Row 24-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next sl st, sc in next 3 sl sts from previous rows. (- [10, 12, -, -] sc)
Row 25-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Front Sizes 2 & 3 Chart
Sizes 4 & 5 only
With RS facing and working into unworked sts on last rnd of Body, sk first unworked st, join A with sl st in next st.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in next – [-, -, 48, 52] sts, sc2tog, leave rem sts unworked. (- [-, -, 49, 53] sc)
Rows 2-13: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Front Right Shoulder
Row 14-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in first – [-, -, 15, 16] sc, sc2tog. (- [-, -, 16, 17] sc)
Row 15-R: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc in each rem st across. (- [-, -, 15, 16] sc)
Row 16-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (- [-, -, 14, 15] sc)
Row 17-R: Rep Row 15-R. (- [-, -, 13, 14] sc)
Rows 18-R – 21-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Row 22-R: Turn, sl st in first 2 sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and each rem sc across. (- [-, -, 11, 12] sc)
Row 23-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [-, -, 10, 11] sc)
Row 24-R: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in next sc and each rem sc across. (- [-, -, 9, 10] sc)
Rows 25-R & 26-R: Rep Rows 23-R & 24-R. (- [-, -, 7, 8] sc)
Row 27-R: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next sl st, sc in next 5 sl sts from previous rows. (- [-, -, 13, 14] sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing shoulder seam.
Front Left Shoulder
With WS facing and working in unworked sts of Row 23, sk first -[-, -, 15, 17] unworked sts, join A with sl st in next st.
Row 14-L: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sc in each rem st across. (-[-, -, 16, 17] sc)
Row 15-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (- [-, -, 15, 16] sc)
Rows 16-L & 17-L: Rep Rows 14-L & 15-L. (- [-, -, 13, 14] sc)
Rows 18-L – 20-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 21-L: Turn, sl st in first 2 sts, ch 1, sc in next st and each rem st across. (- [-, -, 11, 12] sc)
Row 22-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across to last sc, sl st in last sc. (- [-, -, 10, 11] sc)
Row 23-L: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in each rem sc across. (- [-, -, 9, 10] sc)
Row 24-L & 25-L: Rep Rows 22-L & 23-L. (- [-, -, 7, 8] sc)
Row 26-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, sc in next sl st, sc in next 5 sl sts from previous rows. (- [-, -, 13, 14] sc)
Row 27-L: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Front Sizes 4 & 5 Chart
All Sizes
Turn work WS out so RS of shoulders are facing. Sew shoulder seams using long tails.
Sleeve
Arm
Work once on each side.
With RS facing, join A with sl st at center of either underarm.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, work 40 [42, 44, 46, 46] sc evenly spaced around armhole opening, join with sl st to first st. (40 [42, 44, 46, 46] sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog, join with sl st to first st. (38 [40, 42, 44, 44] sts)
Rnds 3-11 [11, 11, 17, 17]: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first st.
[Rep from Rnd 2] 1 [1, 2, 1, 1] times, ending after rnd 21 [21, 31, 33, 33]. (36 [38, 38, 42, 42] sts)
Rep Rnds 2-6 [10, 4, 8, 14] once more, ending after rnd 26 [30, 34, 40, 46]. (34 [36, 36, 40, 40] sts)
Arm Chart
Cuff
Turn, with E, sl st in first st, fasten off A.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc2tog, [dc in next 2 [4, 4, 5, 5] sts, dc2tog] 7 [5, 5, 5, 5] times, dc in last 3 [3, 3, 2, 2] sts, join with sl st in first st. (26 [30, 30, 34, 34] sts)
Rnds 2-4 (RS): Ch 2 (counts as bpdc), do not turn, fpdc around next st, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] around, join with sl st in first st, fasten off.
Cuff Chart
Collar Ribbing
With RS facing, join E in either shoulder seam.
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 49 [51, 55, 59, 61] dc evenly spaced around neckline. (50 [52, 56, 60, 62] sts)
Note: You can work more or fewer sts if desired for a tighter or looser collar, as long as it is an even number of sts.
Rnds 2-4: Ch 2 (counts as bpdc), do not turn, fpdc around next st, [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] around, join with sl st in first st, fasten off.
Collar Ribbing Chart
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Wavelets Baby Romper Crochet Pattern
Dress baby for fun in this adorable baby romper crochet pattern! Easy wavelets flow gently across the main portion of the body. Breezy straps and a generous fit allow for all the wiggles and giggles that come with playtime!
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King Cole Cottonsoft DK yarn
As part of their ambassador program, King Cole sent me lots of yarns to try out. For this baby romper crochet pattern, I chose the Cottonsoft DK yarn. The colors they sent me were #3460 Opal and #3462 Candy Floss.
Cotton yarns can sometimes be stiff, but this one has great drape to it. It’s silky smooth with a pretty shine as well. Use the “Find a Stockist” tool on the King Cole website to find this yarn at a store near you! You can also buy it online at Lovecrafts.
Sizing Adjustments
Babies come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, and sometimes don’t fit perfectly into one size or another. This baby romper crochet pattern can easily be adjusted to fit just right! The pattern includes 5 different sizes from 3 months to 24 months. First, choose a size to follow based on the baby’s measurement at their widest point. That might be the hips, waist, or chest.
Then, when you get to the “body” portion, you can adjust the length by working more or fewer repeats of the wavelet pattern. If the baby is long and lanky, you may need to add a few rows. If the baby is more on the pudgy side, you may want to remove a few rows.
Finally, when working on the “finishing” portion, you can make slight adjustments to the fit by placing the buttons and snaps a little further in or closer to the edge as needed.
Materials
- Yarn: King Cole Cottonsoft DK weight yarn
- 95 [115, 140, 175, 205] yds #3460 Opal Jade (A)
- 20 [25, 30, 40, 45] yds #2758 Candy Floss (B)
- Hook: US size 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Notions:
- Yarn needle
- 3/4″ buttons (2)
- Size 0 snaps (3)
- Stitch marker
Project Level
Intermediate – shaping, edging, multiple sections, crocheting in rows and rounds.
Sizes
3mo [6mo, 12mo, 18mo, 24mo]
- Circumference at widest point (chest/waist/hips): 15 [16.5, 18, 19.5, 21] inches.
- Total length, not including straps: 9 [9.5, 11.5, 12.5, 14.25] inches.
- Length from underarm to top of leg opening: 4 [4.5, 5, 5.75, 6.25] inches.
Gauge
16 hdc x 12 rows = 4 inches
Abbreviations used
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
rnd = round
RS = right side
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
Instructions:
Front Crotch
With A, ch 13 [14, 15, 16, 17].
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (12 [13, 14, 15, 16] sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Sizes 18mo, 24mo only: Repeat row 2 once more.
All Sizes:
Next Row: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across to last st, 2 sc in last st. (14 [15, 16, 17, 18] sts)
Repeat last row an additional 6 [5, 6, 5, 6] times. (26 [25, 28, 27, 30] sts)
Next Row: Ch 1, turn, (hdc, 2 sc) in first st, sc in each st across to last st, (2 sc, hdc) in last st. (30 [29, 32, 31, 34] sts)
Sizes 6mo, 12mo, 18mo, 24mo only: Repeat last row an additional [1, 1, 2, 2] times. ([33, 36, 39, 42] sts)
The last row worked is a WS row.
All sizes: Fasten off.
Back bottom:
With A, ch 13 [14, 15, 16, 17].
Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (12 [13, 14, 15, 16] hdc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across.
Repeat row 2 an additional 4 [4, 6, 6, 8] times.
Next Row: Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in each st across to last st, 2 hdc in last st. (14 [15, 16, 17, 18] sts)
Repeat last row an additional 8 [7, 8, 9, 10] times. (30 [29, 32, 35, 38] sts)
Sizes 6mo, 12mo, 18mo, 24mo only: Next Row: Ch 1, turn, (dc, 2 hdc) in first st, hdc in each st across to last st, (2 hdc, dc) in last st. ([33, 36, 39, 42] sts)
The last row worked is a WS row.
All sizes: Change to B, do not fasten off A
Body
Join rounds where indicated with a sl st in the first st of the round. Carry unused color up in the first or last stitch of each round.
With B, and continuing from back bottom
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across back bottom, with RS of front crotch facing, sc in each st across front crotch, join. (60 [66, 72, 78, 84] sts)
Rnd 2: With B, ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, dc in each of next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts, [hdc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts] around, join with sl st to first st, change to A. (10 [11, 12, 13, 14] wavelets for a total of 60 [66, 72, 78, 84] sts)
Rnd 3: With A, ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join.
Rnd 4: With A, ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, sc in each of next 2 sts, hdc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, [hdc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts, hdc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts] around, join with sl st to first st, change to B. (10 [11, 12, 13, 14] wavelets for a total of 60 [66, 72, 78, 84] sts)
Rnd 5: With B, ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join.
Repeat rnds 2-5 an additional 2 [2, 3, 3, 4] time(s), then repeat rnd 2 once more, fasten off B.
Sizes 6 mo and 18mo only: Repeat rnds 3-4 once more but do not change colors at the end of the last rnd.
Back Yoke:
Row 1 (RS): Sl st in each of first 3 [4, 4, 5, 5] sts, ch 1, hdc in each of next 24 [25, 28, 31, 34] sts, leaving remaining sts unworked.
Sizes 12 mo, 18 mo, 24 mo only: Repeat last row an additional [2, 2, 5] times.
All Sizes:
Decrease Row: Ch 1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc in each st across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. (22 [23, 26, 29, 32] sts)
Repeat decrease row an additional 3 [3, 3, 3, 4] times. (16 [17, 18, 21, 24] sts)
Last row: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across.
Do not fasten off.
First strap:
Row 1 (RS [RS, WS, WS, RS]): Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of first 3 [3, 3, 5, 5] sts, leaving remaining sts unworked. (3 [3, 3, 5, 5] sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across.
Repeat row 2 an additional 5 [6, 8, 10, 12] times
Buttonhole row: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first 1 [1, 1, 2, 2] st(s), ch 1, sk next st, hdc in last 1 [1, 1, 2, 2] st(s). (2 [2, 2, 4, 4] sts, 1 ch-1 sp)
Last row: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across to ch-1 sp, hdc in ch-1 sp, hdc in each st across to end. (3 [3, 3, 5, 5] sts)
Fasten off.
Second strap:
With (RS [RS, WS, WS, RS]) facing and continuing in unworked sts on back yoke after first strap, sk next 10 [11, 12, 11, 14] sts, join A with sl st in next st.
Row 1: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of remaining 3 [3, 3, 5, 5] sts. (3 [3, 5, 5, 5] sts)
Continue as for right strap.
Front Yoke:
With RS facing and continuing in unworked sts on body after back yoke, sk next 6 [8, 8, 8, 8] sts, join A with sl st in next st.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, hdc in each of first 24 [25, 28, 31, 34] sts, leaving remaining sts unworked.
Sizes 12 mo, 18 mo, 24 mo only: Repeat last row an additional [1, 1, 3] times.
All Sizes:
Decrease Row: Ch 1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc in each st across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. (22 [23, 26, 29, 32] sts)
Repeat decrease row an additional 3 [3, 3, 3, 4] times. (16 [17, 18, 21, 24] sts)
Fasten off.
Edging
The idea of the edging is to work evenly around all the exposed edges. The actual stitch count isn’t important, as long as the fabric doesn’t pucker or ruffle.
Bottom edging:
With RS facing and working into the bottom of the first row of the front crotch, join A with a sl st in first st.
- Ch 1, sc in each st across bottom of front crotch
- Ch 1, sc in side of each row around leg opening
- Ch 1, sc in each st across back bottom
- Ch 1, sc in side of each row around leg opening
- Ch 1, join with a sl st to first st, fasten off. (76 [78, 88, 94, 104] sts)
Top edging:
With RS facing, join A with a sl st in first st of last row of front yoke.
- Ch 1, sc in each st across top of front yoke,
- Ch 1, sc in side of each row across side edge of front yoke.
- Sc in each skipped st at underarm.
- Sc in side of each row across side edge of back yoke and strap.
- Ch 1, sc in each st across end of strap.
- Ch 1, sc in side of each row across side edge of strap.
- Sc in each skipped st on back yoke.
- Sc in side of each row across side edge of second strap.
- Ch 1, sc in each st across end of second strap.
- Ch 1, sc in side of each row across side edge of strap and side of back yoke.
- Sc in each skipped st at underarm.
- Sc in side of each row across side edge of front yoke.
- Ch 1, join with a sl st to first st, fasten off. (102 [112, 132, 146, 170] sts)
Finishing
Weave in ends, wash, and block.
Lay flat and fold up back bottom so that it overlaps front crotch by about 1/2 inch. Attach 3 snaps where the layers overlap.
Fold straps over so that they overlap front yoke by about 1/2 inch. Sew buttons to yoke in line with button holes.
You can adjust the fit slightly as needed by sewing the buttons higher or lower. For an adjustable fit, try sewing 2 buttons on each strap, one above the other.
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How to Make a Crochet Footbag – Magic Stripes
Use up your yarn scraps to make your own crochet footbag! Footbags work up quickly and are great for family fun, craft fairs, and gifting. The Magic Stripes Footbag uses a helical technique to create a seamless, spiral striping design with 3 colors.
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Footbag Vs. Hacky Sack®
Footbags are small, bean-bag like balls, usually filled with plastic pellets, sand, or other similar fillings, and used in a variety of games. Hacky Sack® is a brand name of footbags. The trademark is currently registered to Wham-O corporation.
Footbags can be used for a variety of games. The most commonly known game is called circle kick. Players stand in a circle and pass the ball back and forth to each other using only their feet, with the goal of keeping it off the ground. You can find a whole bunch of other footbag games on Wikipedia!
Operation Crochet Shoeboxes
I designed this pattern for the Operation Crocheted Shoeboxes crochet-along. We’re making items to gift to children in need through Operation Christmas Child. Through November, get a new pattern each week that you can put in your shoebox! See all the crochet along details on Desert Blossom Crafts.
Buy the Bundle!
All the patterns in this crochet along are available for free on line during the event. If you like, you can also buy pdf versions of all the patterns as one bundle! All proceeds from sales of the bundle go to Operation Christmas Child.
The magic of helical stripes
When you work in continuous rounds, without joining or chaining between rounds, you create a spiral. If you start 2 or more separate spirals spaced evenly around the work, they will twist together as you go, creating “jogless” stripes.
The concept sounds complicated, but is actually easy to achieve. After one set up row, it becomes almost automatic and is great TV-time crochet!
Filling your crochet footbag
There are lots of different filling options, each with different benefits and issues.
- Plastic pellets are the most common. They are relatively cheap, durable, and washable.
- Micro glass pellets are an environmentally friendly alternative to plastic, but are also more expensive and heavier.
- Seed beads come in metal, glass, and plastic varieties.
- Footbags filled with sand have a different texture to them and are often called “dirt bags”
- Several dry goods can be used, but will make the bag not washable. Examples include:
- Rice
- Beans
- Dried corn
- Lentils
- Birdseed
For my footbag, I chose tiny seed beads with some larger pony beads thrown in for fun. I’ve had these in my stash for ages, probably over a decade, and have no idea where they originally came from.
Materials
- Yarn: Worsted weight yarn. 15 yds each of 3 colors (A, B, and C).
- Hook: Size H / 5 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge.
- Notions:
- Yarn Needle
- 2-3 Stitch Markers
- 1 nylon stocking (ankle or knee high)
- Optional – scrap piece of yarn to use as a running stitch marker
Project Level
Intermediate: Continuous rounds, alternating between colors.
Size
2.5 inches in diameter
Gauge
8 sts x 8 rounds = 4 inches in sc in continuous rounds.
Use pattern as gauge swatch – top should measure approximately 2.25 inches in diameter. Gauge is not critical for this project
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
rnd = round
Instructions
This footbag is worked in continuous rounds, do not join or turn unless indicated. You may want to mark the first stitch of each round.
When the instructions say to “drop” a color, remove the working loop from your hook and secure it with a stitch marker so it doesn’t pull out.
When the instructions say to “pick up” a color, pick up the free loop that was dropped earlier, and place it back on your hook. Remove the stitch marker.
Top
With A, ch 2
Rnd 1: (set up round)
- With A, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, drop A.
- Join B with sl st in same ch, 2 sc in in same ch, drop B.
- Join C with sl st in same ch, 2 sc in same ch, drop C. (6 sc total)
Rnd 2: Continuing with C, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, drop C, pick up A, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, drop A, pick up B, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: Continuing with B, inc in next st, sc in next st, drop B, pick up C, inc in next st, sc in next st, drop C, pick up A, inc in next st, sc in next st. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: Continuing with A, inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, drop A, pick up B, inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, drop B, pick up C, inc in next 2 sts, sc in next st. (24 sc)
Your work should now measure about 2.25 inches in diameter.
Weave in starting tails.
Middle:
Rnd 5: Continuing with C, sc in each of next 8 sts, drop C, pick up A, sc in each of next 8 sts, drop A, pick up B, sc in each of next 8 sts.
Rnd 6: Continuing with B, sc in each of next 8 sts, drop B, pick up C, sc in each of next 8 sts, drop C, pick up A, sc in each of next 8 sts.
Rnd 7: Continuing with A, sc in each of next 8 sts, drop A, pick up B, sc in each of next 8 sts, drop B, pick up C, sc in each of next 8 sts.
Rnds 8-10: Repeat rnds 5-7 once more
Stuff Footbag:
If you are using a larger filling that won’t come out of the crochet stitches and don’t want to use the stocking, you can work 2 rounds of the bottom before stuffing with your filling.
Fill toe of stocking with some of your chosen filler. Place it inside the ball and continue to fill until it fills the ball to just below the edge.
Remove stocking from ball and sew just above filling.
Trim excess stocking. Sew over raw edges and seam once more. Be sure to use small enough stitches that filling will not come out.
For extra protection, slide the stuffed portion of stocking into the part you trimmed off, and trim to fit again. With a knee high, you may be able to do this once more.
Insert filled stocking back into footbag.
Bottom
Rnd 11: Continuing with C, dec, sc in each of next 2 sts, drop C, pick up A, dec, sc in each of next 2 sts, drop A, pick up B, dec, sc in each of next 2 sts. (18 sc)
Rnd 12: Continuing with B, dec, sc in next st, drop B, pick up C, dec, sc in next st, drop C, pick up A, dec, sc in next st. (12 sc)
Rnd 13: Continuing with A, dec, fasten off A, pick up B, dec, fasten off B, pick up C, dec. (6 sc)
Fasten off C.
Finishing:
Sew bottom shut with tails, and weave in ends.
Rate this Crochet Footbag Pattern!
I hope you enjoyed this crochet footbag pattern. You can buy pdf versions of all the patterns in this CAL as one bundle here! All proceeds from sales of the bundle go to Operation Christmas Child.
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Free Pattern – Sweet & Simple Flower Headband
Designed for the 2019 International Crochet Month Designer Showcase
Tame those tresses with a touch of spring! This Sweet and Simple Flower Headband adds a pop of color, with a stretchy ribbed section for a snug fit.
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Make it in Any Size
The beginner-friendly pattern can be made to any size from infant to adult, and everything in between. The pictures show the 6 month size, but instructions are included for changing both the length and the width as needed.
Make Matching Booties
I received the yarn for this pattern for free from KPC yarn, some time ago at a conference. It’s a soft, DK weight, cotton yarn. I originally used it for my Little Cutie Booties pattern, and had just enough left over for this matching headband. The headband and booties together make a great set for gifting!
Laurel Hill Hooks
The folks at Laurel Hill sent me a lovely, ebony crochet hook for free, to try out for this project. Unfortunately, I changed my mind mid-stream about what I would be making, and needed a much smaller hook. I did still try out the Laurel Hill hook though. Read my review for all the details!
2019 International Crochet Month Designer Showcase
March is International Crochet Month. To celebrate, Marie Segares of Underground Crafter has put together a Designer Showcase. This blog hop event features a different designer every day. Today is my day to be featured and share this free pattern! See all the details at Underground Crafter.
If you crochet, think CGOA!
All the designers participating in this event are members of the Crochet Guild of America. Through local chapter events, online discussions, and of course the annual conference I’ve met so many wonderful people and learned so much. It’s also shown me just how wonderfully diverse the world of crochet can be!
As a professional, the connections I’ve made at CGOA have been invaluable, but it’s the friends I’ve made that I treasure most. CGOA is a great resource for crocheters of all skill levels and interests. Whether you’re new to crochet, or are into amigurumi, freeform, lace, colorwork, or something else, CGOA has something for you. If you crochet, think CGOA!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Sweet & Simple Flower Headband
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Materials
- KPC Glencoul DK yarn (yardage indicated is for 6 month size)
- 2-5 yds Lucky Heather (purple)
- 2-5 yds Parakeet (green)
- 15 yds Forest Fruit (pink)
- Size G / 4 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Basic: Simple stitches, sc2tog decrease, working in rows and rounds, working in back loop only.
Size:
Can be made to any size. Sample shown in 0-6 month size.
Gauge
Use pattern as gauge swatch – ribbing section should measure about 3/4 inches x 3 inches, without stretching. Exact gauge is not critical and size can be easily adjusted as needed.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
ch-1 sp = chain 1 space
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sk = skip
rnd = round
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources
- Learn to Crochet Series
- Working into the back bump
- Front Loop Only (flo) & Back Loop Only (blo) on Moogly
- How to Single Crochet 2 Together on Fiber Flux (sc2tog)
- Invisible Single Crochet Decrease on Nicki’s Homemade Crafts (alternative to sc2tog)
Instructions
To make the headband wider, start with more chains. Just make sure you start with an even number.
Ribbing
With green, Ch 6 (multiple of 2)
Row 1 (WS): Sc in back bump of 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (5 sc)
Rows 2 – 19: Ch 1, turn, sc back loop only of each st across. (5 sc)
Change to pink, fasten off green.
Main section
This section is written so that it will still work if you added more stitches. If you started with just the 6 chains, you’ll sometimes only need to work the parts in ( ) once.
Row 20 (RS): With pink, ch 1, turn, sc in back loop only of first st, (sc, ch-1) across to last 2 sts, sc in back loop only of last 2 sts. (4 sc, 1 ch-1 sp).
Row 21: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dc in same st, (sk next st, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp) across to last 2 sts, sk next st, 2 dc in last st. (6 dc, 2 ch-1 sps)
Row 22: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch-1), (sk next st, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp) across to last 2 sts, sk next st, dc in last st. (6 dc, 3 ch-1 sps).
Repeat rows 21-22 until work reaches desired length. It should stretch to fit snuggly but not tightly around head.
Suggested lengths without stretching:
0-6 months: 14 inches
6-12 months: 15 inches
12-24 months: 16 inches
Child: 18 inches
Adult small: 20 inches
Adult large: 22 inches
Next row: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, sk next ch-1 sp, sc2tog, (sc in next ch-1 sp, sc2tog) across to last ch-1 sp, sk last ch-1 sp, sc in last st. (5 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Using tail, sew ends of headband together.
Flower:
For larger sizes, consider making 3 flowers and sewing them onto the headband near each other to make a cluster of flowers.
Ch 2,
Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st to first st. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in back loop of each st around, join with sl st to first st. (6 petals)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Using tail, sew flower to headband.
Weave in any remaining ends.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Sapling Sweater Vest
Add a stylish finishing touch to your little one’s outfit with the Sapling Sweater Vest. The lightweight fabric is perfect for warmer weather, and the gentle ribbing stretches to grow and move with active babies. The beginner friendly pattern works up quickly and includes 4 sizes from 6 – 24 months.
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The perfect baby gift!
I designed the Sapling Sweater Vest as a gift for a friend who just had a baby. (He’s absolutely adorable!) The unisex design and simple, relaxed fit work well for a baby gift. Lighter weight yarn makes it ideal for spring weather, and it would be great for autumn too.
Fractal spinning
I’m a member of a local spinning guild called Illinois Prairie Spinners. At one of our meetings late last year, we learned about fractal spinning. The teacher had samples of fiber for us to use, and I chose a woodsy, pastel roving.
By definition, fractals can be divided over and over again and just become infinitely smaller versions of the original. For fractal spinning, you divide the fiber into sections in a particular way so that the colors change at different rates in the different plies. If done right, you will have solid sections where the colors match up between the plies, and “barber pole” sections where the colors do not.
The key is, for it to work properly, your measuring and your spinning both have to be perfectly even. Mine is not, so I didn’t get a true fractal. But I did get a very lovely, very soft, fingering weight, merino yarn!
Blocking your swatch
You can of course use any fingering weight yarn for this project, it does not have to be something you spun yourself. I would suggest trying it with your favorite, fingering weight sock yarn.
Whatever fiber you choose, it may behave differently after washing than mine did. Even different wool fibers can have different characteristics. That’s why it’s so important to wash and block your swatch before measuring it. This way, if the fiber is going to shrink or grow, you can adjust your gauge accordingly.
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Sapling Sweater Vest
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Materials
- 250 [280, 315, 350] yds, fingering weight yarn (see Sizes)
- Size G / 4 mm crochet hook or size needed to match gauge
- Tapestry Needle
Project Level
Basic: Mostly dc stitches, worked in back loop only. Some decreases and increases. Worked sideways and seamed.
Sizes
Instructions are given for 6 months, with changes for 12 months, 18 months, and 24 months in [ ]
Gauge
Working in back loops only, 22 dc x 12 rows = 4 inches.
Abbreviations used
(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
dc2tog = double crochet 2 stitches together
blo = back loop(s) only
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sk = skip
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources
Instructions
Both back and front are worked sideways, starting at an underarm. Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a dc throughout.
Back
Armhole
Ch 32 [34, 36, 38]
Sizes 6 mo and 12 mo only:
Row 1 (WS): Dc in 4th ch from hook and each ch across. (30 [32] dc)
Row 2: Ch 3, turn, dc in blo of next st and each st across to last st, 2 dc in blo of last st. (31 [33] dc)
Sizes 18 mo and 24 mo only:
Row 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook and each ch across. ([34, 36] dc)
Row 2: Ch 3, turn, dc in blo of same st and each st across. ([35, 37] dc)
Row 3: Ch 3, turn, dc in blo of next st and each st across to last st, 2 dc in blo of last st. [36, 38] dc)
Shoulder
Row 3 [3, 4, 4]: Ch 28 [29, 29, 30], turn, dc in 4th ch from hook and each remaining ch, dc in blo of each st across. (57 [60, 63, 66] dc)
Rows 4-7 [4-7, 5-8, 5-8]: Ch 3, turn, dc in blo of next st and each st across. (57 [60, 63, 66] dc)
Neckline
Row 8 [8, 9, 9] (RS): Ch 3, turn, dc in blo of next st and each st across to last 6 sts, dc2tog in blo of next 2 sts, leave remaining 4 sts unworked. (52 [55, 58, 61] dc)
Rows 9-24 [9-26, 10-27, 10-29]: Ch 3, turn, dc in blo of next st and each st across. (52 [55, 58, 61] dc)
Shoulder
Row 25 [27, 28, 30]: Ch 7, turn, dc in 4th ch from hook and each remaining ch, dc in blo of each st across (57 [60, 63, 66] dc)
Rows 26-29 [28-31, 29-32, 30-34]: Ch 3, turn, dc in blo of next st and each st across. (57 [60, 63, 66] dc)
Armhole
Sizes 6 mo and 12 mo only:
Row 30 [32] (RS): Ch 3, turn, dc in blo of next 29 [31] sts, dc2tog in blo of next 2 sts, leave remaining sts unworked. (31 [33] dc)
Row 31 [33]: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, sk first st, dc in blo of each remaining st across. (30 [32] dc)
Fasten off, leaving an 18 inch tail to use for sewing side seam.
Sizes 18 mo and 24 mo only:
Row 33 [35] (RS): Ch 3, turn, dc in blo of next 34 [36] sts, dc2tog in blo of next 2 sts, leave remaining sts unworked. (36, 38 dc)
Row 34 [36]: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, sk first st, dc in blo of each remaining st across. (35 [37] dc)
Row 35 [37]: Ch 3, turn, dc in blo of next st and each st across to last 2 sts, dc2tog in blo of last 2 sts. (34 [36] dc)
Fasten off, leaving an 18 inch tail to use for sewing side seam.
Front
Arm & Shoulder
Rows 1-7 [7, 8, 8]: Repeat rows 1-7 [7, 8, 8] of Back. (57 [60, 63, 66] dc)
Neckline
Row 8 [8, 9,9] (RS): Ch 3, turn, dc in blo of next st and each st across to last 6 [7, 7, 8] sts, dc2tog in blo of next 2 sts, leave remaining 4 sts unworked. (52 [54, 57, 59 ] dc)
Row 9 [9, 10, 11]: Ch 2 (does not count as a dc), turn, sk first st, dc in blo of each remaining st across. (51 [53, 56, 58] dc)
Row 10 [10, 11, 11]: Ch 3, turn, dc in blo of next st and each st across to last 2 sts, dc2tog in blo of last 2 sts. (50 [52, 55, 57] dc)
Row 11 [11, 12, 12]: Ch 3, turn, dc in blo of next st and each st across. (50 [52, 55, 57] dc)
Rows 12-13 [12-13, 13-16, 13-16]: Repeat last 2 rows once [once, twice, twice] more. (49 [51, 53, 55] dc)
Rows 14-20 [14-22, 17-21, 17-23]: Ch 3, dc in blo of next st and each st across. (49 [51, 53, 55] dc)
Row 21 [23, 22, 24]: Ch 3, turn, dc in same st and in each st across. (50 [52, 55, 56] dc)
Rows 22-23 [24-25, 23-26, 25-28]: Repeat last 2 rows once [once, twice, twice] more. (51 [53, 56, 58] dc)
Row 24 [26, 27, 29]: Ch 3, turn, dc in blo of next st and each st across to last st, 2 dc in blo of last st. (52 [54, 57, 59] dc)
Shoulder & Armhole
Row 25 [27, 28, 30]: Ch 7 [8, 8, 9], turn, dc in 4th ch from hook and each remaining ch, dc in blo of each st across (57 [60, 63, 66] dc)
Rows 26-31 [28-33, 29-35, 30-37]: Repeat rows 26-31 [28-33, 29-35, 30-37] of Back. (34 [36] dc)
Fasten off, leaving an 18 inch tail to use for sewing side seam.
Assembly
With right sides together, sew back to front at side seams and shoulders.
Armhole Edging
Rnd 1: With RS facing, join yarn with a sl st in side seam at underarm, ch 1, work 4 [4, 5, 5] sc evenly spaced across sides of underarm rows, sk next st, sc in each st around to last st, sk last st,
work 4 [4, 5, 5] sc across sides of remaining underarm rows, join with sl st to first st. (60 [62, 66, 68] sc)
Repeat for other armhole.
Collar
Rnd 1: With RS facing, join yarn with a sl st in shoulder seam at neckline, ch 3, work 67 [73, 77, 83] dc evenly spaced around neckline, join with sl st to first st. (68 [74, 78, 84] dc)
Rnd 2: Do not turn. Ch 3, dc in next st and each st around, join with sl st to first st, fasten off. (68 [74, 78, 84] dc)
24 mo size only: Repeat Rnd 2 once more.
Weave in all ends, wash and block.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Little Cutie Booties
Warm up little feet with these Little Cutie Booties! They feature blocks of bright, berry colors, and a bit of texture around the toes. The pattern includes instructions for two sizes, and there’s a video tutorial too!
The yarn used for this design was provided for free by KPC yarn.
This pattern contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Materials:
- KPC Glencoul DK yarn
- 25-30 yds Lucky Heather (purple)
- 25-30 yds Parakeet (green)
- 12-15 yds Forest Fruit (pink)
- Size G / 4 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Skill Level:
Intermediate – increases, decreases, front and back post stitches, working in the round, working in back loop only.
Size:
Pattern is written for 0-6 months, with changes for 6-12 months in [ ]. Sole length: 4 [5] inches.
Gauge:
18 sc x 22 rows = 4 inches.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together
- dc = double crochet
- fpdc = front post double crochet
- bpdc = back post double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
Instructions:
(Scroll down for video tutorial)
Toe:
Toe is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless indicated. Mark the first stitch of each round.
Rnd 1: With purple, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around (16 sc)
Rnd 4: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts) around (20 sc)
6-12 months only – Rnd 5: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts) around (24 sc)
Next Rnd: Working in back loops only, sc in each st around (20 [24] sc)
Repeat last rnd 4 [5] more times. Sl st in next st, changing to green.
Heel:
Heel is worked in rows.
Row 1 (RS): With green and working in back loops only, ch 1 sc in next 13 [15] sts, sc2tog, leaving remaining 4 [6] sts unworked. (14 [16] sts).
Rows 2-10 [11]: Working in both loops, ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 11 [12]: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 5 [6] sts, sc2tog twice, sc in last 5 [6] sts. (12 [14] sts)
6-12 months only – Row 13: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 5 sts, sc2tog twice, sc in last 5 sts. (12 sts)
Edging (RS): Ch 1, do not turn; working in sides of rows, work 8 [9] sc evenly spaced to toe; sc in back loop only of each skipped st across toe; working in sides of rows, work 8 [9] sc evenly spaced to back of heel, ch 1, join with sl st to first st of last row; fasten off, leaving an 8 inch tail. (20 [24] sc)
Fold last row of heel in half, with right sides facing. Sew seam at back of heel with a whipstitch, working through the wrong side loops only.
Cuff:
Cuff is worked in joined rounds. Do not turn unless indicated. Ch 2 at the beginning of a row counts as a bpdc.
Rnd 1: With RS facing, join pink in first edging stitch at back of heel (just to the left of the seam). Ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first st. (20 [24] hdc)
Rnds 2-3 [4]: Ch 2, fpdc in next st, (bpdc in next st, fpdc in next st) around, join with sl st to first st.
Fasten off.
Turn bootie inside out and weave in all ends. Repeat instructions for 2nd bootie.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Jazzberry Baby Blanket
Jazz up baby’s room with the fun and squishy Jazzberry Baby Blanket! Intermeshing crochet, using 2 strands at once, creates a plush feel and eye catching, zig-zag texture. The colors shift through a spectrum of pinks and purples, and each time a color changes, the zig-zag pattern changes direction as well.
This pattern was originally released as a crochet along. See the main Jazzberry CAL post for more information and tips!
This is an experienced skill level pattern because of the intermeshing crochet. If you’ve never tried intermeshing crochet before, this would be a great project to learn on. My Intermeshing Crochet Basics tutorial will help you get started!
The sample is shown in Paintbox Simply DK yarn, which I received for free from Love Crafts for this design. I used the Bella Coco Ombre Pack in Raspberry. This 5 skein pack contains the colors Candyfloss Pink (149), Dusty Rose (141), Tea Rose (142), Dusty Lilac (146) and Raspberry Pink (143)
This pattern contains affiliate advertisements (click for more info). If you click one of these advertisements and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
Materials:
- Paintbox Simply DK yarn – 1 skein (302 yds) each:
- 146 Dusty Lilac (A)
- 141 Dusty Rose (B)
- 142 Tea Rose (C)
- 149 Candyfloss Pink (D)
- 143 Raspberry Pink (E)
- Size 7 / 4.5 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn needle
Skill Level:
Experienced – intermeshing crochet, with color changes.
Size:
30 inches x 40 inches.
To change the width, add or remove stitches in groups of 4. To change the length, add or remove rows from each section, in groups of 2.
Gauge:
Swatch worked as follows should measure 4.75 inches x 4.5 inches:
Row 1: Ch 22, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (21 sc)
Rows 2-3: Work as for rows 2-3 of pattern. (11 sc, 10 ch-1 sps on 1st part of each row. 10 sc, 9 ch-1 sps on 2nd part of each row).
Rows 4-9: Repeat rows 2 & 3 three times
Row 10: Turn, pick up outside color, csdc in first st, (sc in next inside st, dcf in next outside st, sc in next inside st, dcb in next outside st) across. (21 sts)
Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Note: Exact gauge / size isn’t critical, however if your gauge is looser (bigger), you will need more yarn.
Abbreviations used:
(Pattern is written in US terms)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- fsc = foundation single crochet (optional)
- dc = double crochet
- csdc = chainless starting double crochet (optional)
- dcf = double crochet in front of next ch-sp (see Special Stitches)
- dcb = double crochet behind next ch-sp (see Special Stitches)
- sp = space
- ch sp = chain space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS = right side
Recommended Resources:
- Tutorial – Intermeshing Crochet Basics
- Changing Colors
- Foundation Single Crochet (fsc) on Moogly – optional technique
- Chainless Starting Double Crochet (csdc) on Moogly – optional technique
Optional Techniques:
Foundation Single Crochet (fsc): Using foundation single crochet instead of a starting chain creates a stretchier starting edge. An alternative row 1 with a starting chain is also provided.
Chainless Starting Double Crochet (csdc): Chainless starting double crochets create cleaner looking side edges. This technique is also optional and you can instead substitute “ch 3 (counts as first dc)” wherever you see it.
Special Stitches:
Double Crochet in Front (dcf): Working in front of the chain space, double crochet in the indicated stitch.
Double Crochet Behind (dcb): Working behind the chain space, double crochet in the indicated stitch.
Instructions:
Bottom edge:
Row 1 (RS): With A, work 133 fsc. (133 sts – multiple of 4 + 1)
OR
Alternate Row 1 (WS): With A, ch 134 (multiple of 4 + 2), sc in back bump of 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (133 sts)
Note: For sections 1-10, each row is worked in two parts. The “outside” is the first part, and the “inside” is the 2nd part. Starting with row 3, outside stitches are only worked into outside stitches and inside stitches are only worked into inside stitches. Skip any stitches of the opposite color.
Section 1:
Outside color: A
Inside color: B
Row 2:
1: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next st) across, drop working loop. (67 sc, 66 ch-1 sps)
2: Do not turn. Go back to the start of the row to begin working in the skipped sts below the ch-1 sps from 2.1. Working behind the first ch-1 sp, join B with a sl st in first skipped st, ch 4 (counts as dc and ch-1), sk next st, dcf, (ch 1, sk next st, dcb, ch 1, sk next st, dcf) across to last st, skip last st, drop working loop at back of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Note: When dropping a working loop, if a side of the work is specified, both the loop and the working yarn should be dropped to that side.
Row 3:
1: Turn, pick up A, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcf, ch 1, (dcb, ch 1, dcf, ch 1) across to last st, dc in last st, drop working loop. (67 sts, 66 ch-1 sps)
2: Do not turn. Pick up B, working in front of the ch-1 sp, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcb, (ch 1, dcf, ch 1, dcb) across, drop working loop at front of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Row 4:
1: Repeat row 3.1
2: Do not turn. Pick up B, working behind the ch-1 sp, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcf, (ch 1, dcb, ch 1, dcf) across to last st, drop working loop at back of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Rows 5-8: Repeat rows 3-4 twice
Row 9 (color change):
1: Repeat row 3.1, changing to color C in the last stitch. Fasten off A.
2: Repeat row 3.2.
Section 2:
Outside color: C
Inside color: B
Row 10 (pattern shift):
1: Turn, pick up C, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcb, ch 1, (dcf, ch 1, dcb, ch 1) across to last st, dc in last st, drop working loop. (67 sts, 66 ch-1 sps)
2: Do not turn. Pick up B, working behind the ch-1 sp, csdc in first st , ch 1, dcf, (ch 1, dcb, ch 1, dcf) across to last st, drop working loop at back of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Row 11:
1: Repeat row 10.1
2: Do not turn. Pick up B, working in front of ch-1 sp, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcb, (ch 1, dcf, ch 1, dcb) across to last st, drop working loop at front of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Rows 12-16: Repeat rows 10-11 twice, then repeat row 10 once more.
Row 17 (color change row):
1: Repeat row 10.1
2: Repeat row 11.2, changing to color D in the last stitch, drop loop at back of work. Fasten off B.
Section 3:
Outside color: C
Inside color: D
Row 18 (pattern shift):
1: Turn, pick up C, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcb, ch 1, (dcf, ch 1, dcb, ch 1) across to last st, dc in last st, drop working loop. (67 sts, 66 ch-1 sps)
2: Do not turn. Pick up D, working in front of ch-1 sp, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcb, (ch 1, dcf, ch 1, dcb) across to last st, drop working loop at front of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Row 19:
1: Repeat row 18.1
2: Do not turn. Pick up D, working behind the ch-1 sp, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcf, (ch 1, dcb, ch 1, dcf) across to last st, drop working loop at back of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Rows 20-24: Repeat rows 18-19 twice, then repeat row 18 once more.
Row 25 (color change row):
1: Repeat row 18.1, changing to color E in the last stitch. Fasten off C.
2: Repeat row 19.2.
Section 4:
Outside color: E
Inside color: D
Row 26 (pattern shift):
1: Turn, pick up E, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcf, ch 1, (dcb, ch 1, dcf, ch 1) across to last st, dc in last st, drop working loop. (67 sts, 66 ch-1 sps)
2: Do not turn. Pick up D, working in front of ch-1 sp, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcb, (ch 1, dcf, ch 1, dcb) across to last st, drop working loop at front of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Row 27:
1: Repeat row 26.1
2: Do not turn. Pick up D, working behind the ch-1 sp, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcf, (ch 1, dcb, ch 1, dcf) across to last st, drop working loop at back of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Rows 28-32: Repeat rows 26-27 twice, then repeat row 26 once more.
Row 33 (color change row):
1: Repeat row 26.1
2: Repeat row 27.2, changing to color A in the last stitch, drop loop to front of work. Fasten off D.
Section 5:
Outside color: E
Inside color: A
Row 34 (pattern shift):
1: Turn, pick up E, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcf, ch 1, (dcb, ch 1, dcf, ch 1) across to last st, dc in last st, drop working loop. (67 sts, 66 ch-1 sps)
2: Do not turn. Pick up A, working behind the ch-1 sp, csdc in same st, ch 1, dcf, (ch 1, dcb, ch 1, dcf) across to last st, drop working loop at back of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Row 35:
1: Repeat row 34.1
2: Do not turn. Pick up A, working in front of ch-1 sp, csdc in first A st, ch 1, dcb, (ch 1, dcf, ch 1, dcb) across to last st, drop working loop at front of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Rows 36-40: Repeat rows 34-35 twice, then repeat row 34 once more.
Row 41 (color change row):
1: Repeat row 34.1, changing to color B in the last stitch. Fasten off E.
2: Repeat row 35.2
Section 6:
Outside color: B
Inside color: A
Row 42 (pattern shift):
1: Turn, pick up B, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcb, ch 1, (dcf, ch 1, dcb, ch 1) across to last st, dc in last st, drop working loop. (67 sts, 66 ch-1 sps)
2: Do not turn. Pick up A, working behind the ch-1 sp, csdc in first st , ch 1, dcf, (ch 1, dcb, ch 1, dcf) across to last st, drop working loop at back of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Row 43:
1: Repeat row 42.1
2: Do not turn. Pick up A, working in front of ch-1 sp, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcb, (ch 1, dcf, ch 1, dcb) across to last st, drop working loop at front of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Rows 44-48: Repeat rows 42-43 twice, then repeat row 42 once more.
Row 49 (color change row):
1: Repeat row 42.1
2: Repeat row 43.2, changing to color C in the last stitch, drop loop at back of work. Fasten off A.
Section 7:
Outside color: B
Inside color: C
Row 50 (pattern shift):
1: Turn, pick up B, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcb, ch 1, (dcf, ch 1, dcb, ch 1) across to last st, dc in last st, drop working loop. (67 sts, 66 ch-1 sps)
2: Do not turn. Pick up C, working in front of ch-1 sp, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcb, (ch 1, dcf, ch 1, dcb) across to last st, drop working loop at front of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Row 51:
1: Repeat row 50.1
2: Do not turn. Pick up C, working behind the ch-1 sp, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcf, (ch 1, dcb, ch 1, dcf) across to last st, drop working loop at back of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Rows 52-56: Repeat rows 50-51 twice, then repeat row 50 once more.
Row 57 (color change row):
1: Repeat row 50.1, changing to color D in the last stitch. Fasten off B.
2: Repeat row 51.2.
Section 8:
Outside color: D
Inside color: C
Row 58 (pattern shift):
1: Turn, pick up D, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcf, ch 1, (dcb, ch 1, dcf, ch 1) across to last st, dc in last st, drop working loop. (67 sts, 66 ch-1 sps)
2: Do not turn. Pick up C, working in front of ch-1 sp, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcb, (ch 1, dcf, ch 1, dcb) across to last st, drop working loop at front of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Row 59:
1: Repeat row 58.1
2: Do not turn. Pick up C, working behind the ch-1 sp, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcf, (ch 1, dcb, ch 1, dcf) across to last st, drop working loop at back of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Rows 60-64: Repeat rows 58-59 twice, then repeat row 58 once more.
Row 65 (color change row):
1: Repeat row 58.1
2: Repeat row 59.2, changing to color E in the last stitch, drop loop to front of work. Fasten off C.
Section 9:
Outside color: D
Inside color: E
Row 66 (pattern shift):
1: Turn, pick up D, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcf, ch 1, (dcb, ch 1, dcf, ch 1) across to last st, dc in last st, drop working loop. (67 sts, 66 ch-1 sps)
2: Do not turn. Pick up E, working behind the ch-1 sp, csdc in same st, ch 1, dcf, (ch 1, dcb, ch 1, dcf) across to last st, drop working loop at back of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Row 67:
1: Repeat row 66.1
2: Do not turn. Pick up E, working in front of ch-1 sp, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcb, (ch 1, dcf, ch 1, dcb) across to last st, drop working loop at front of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Rows 68-72: Repeat rows 66-67 twice, then repeat row 66 once more.
Row 73 (color change row):
1: Repeat row 66.1, changing to color A in the last stitch. Fasten off D.
2: Repeat row 67.2
Section 10:
Outside color: A
Inside color: E
Row 74 (pattern shift):
1: Turn, pick up A, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcb, ch 1, (dcf, ch 1, dcb, ch 1) across to last st, dc in last st, drop working loop. (67 sts, 66 ch-1 sps)
2: Do not turn. Pick up E, working behind the ch-1 sp, csdc in first st , ch 1, dcf, (ch 1, dcb, ch 1, dcf) across to last st, drop working loop at back of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Row 75:
1: Repeat row 74.1
2: Do not turn. Pick up E, working in front of ch-1 sp, csdc in first st, ch 1, dcb, (ch 1, dcf, ch 1, dcb) across to last st, drop working loop at front of work. (66 sts, 65 ch-1 sps)
Rows 76-81: Repeat rows 74-75 three times. Fasten off E, do not fasten off A.
Top Edge:
Note: On row 82, you will be working into stitches from both the inside and outside layers to join them together.
Row 82: Turn, pick up A, csdc in first st, (sc in next inside st, dcb in next outside st, sc in next inside st, dcf in next outside st) across. (133 sts)
Row 83: Turn, ch 1, sc in each st across, fasten off.
Weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern!
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Bavarian Cardi
Comfy and warm, the Bavarian Cardi is heavy enough for layering on cold winter days. The stitch pattern is fun to do, and creates an eye-catching, raised, diamond texture. With a unisex design and sizes ranging from 6 months to 4T, this is a great go-to pattern for gifting!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains sponsored content and affiliate links (click for more info). If you click an affiliate link and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Bavarian Cardi
Add this to your Ravelry Queue
Materials:
- Red Heart Soft Baby Steps Yarn (I received this yarn for free from Red Heart for this pattern):
- 1 skein #9620 Baby Green
- 1 skein #9505 Aqua
- 1 skein #9200 Baby Yellow
- Size H / 8 / 5 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn or Tapestry needle
- 5 [5, 5, 6, 6, 6] – ¾ inch buttons.
Difficulty:
Intermediate – Post stitch clusters, some shaping.
Size:
Instructions written for infant’s size 6 mo; changes for 12 mo, 18 mo, 2T, 3T, & 4T in [ ].
Gauge:
14 dc x 8 rows = 4 inches. Gauge is important for a good fit – take time to check your gauge.
Abbreviations:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- dc2tog = double crochet 2 together
- V = v stitch (see Special Stitches)
- cl = cluster (see Special Stitches)
- hcl = half cluster (see Special Stitches)
- sl st = slip stitch
- sp = space
- ch sp = chain space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sk = skip
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Recommended Resources:
Special Stitches:
V Stitch (V): (Dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated stitch.
Fan: (4 dc, ch 1, 4 dc) in indicated stitch.
Cluster (cl): Working around posts as for front post stitches, *(yo, insert hook around post of next dc, yo and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook) 4 times**, sk next sc, rep from * to **, yo and draw through all 9 loops on hook, ch 1 to close.
Half Cluster (hcl): Working around posts as for front post stitches, *(yo, insert hook around post of next dc, yo and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook)** 4 times, yo and draw through all 5 loops on hook, ch 1 to close.
Instructions:
Yoke:
With green, ch 53 [55, 57, 59, 59, 61] loosely.
Note: Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a double crochet throughout
Row 1 (WS [WS, RS, RS, WS, WS]): Dc in 4th ch from hook and in next 7 chs, *V in next ch, dc in next 6 [7, 8, 9, 9, 10] chs, V in next ch,** dc in next 17 chs, repeat from * to **, dc in next 9 chs. (55 [57, 59, 61, 61, 63] sts, 4 ch sps. )
Rows 2-7 [7, 8, 8, 9, 9]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st, (dc in each st across to next ch sp, V in ch sp) 4 times, dc in each st across. (103 [105, 115, 117, 125, 127] sts, 4 ch sps)
Next Row (RS): Ch 3, dc in first 15 [15, 16, 16, 17, 17] sts, *dc in next ch sp, ch 4 [5, 4, 5, 4, 5] (underarm), sk next 20 [21, 24, 25, 27, 28] sts, dc in next ch sp** dc in next 31 [31, 33, 33, 35, 35] sts, repeat from * to **, dc in last 16 [16, 17, 17, 17, 18] sts. (67 [67, 71, 71, 75, 75] sts, 2 underarm sps)
Body:
Row 1 (WS):
Ch 1, sc in first 8 [8, 5, 9, 9, 6] sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, 1 [1, 2, 1, 1, 2] sc in next st, sc in next 2 [2, 5, 2, 3, 6] sts,
*Sc in next 2 [3, 2, 3, 2, 3] chs, mark the last ch you worked into for later joining (center of underarm), sc in next 2 chs,**
2 [1, 2, 2, 1, 2] sc in next st, sc in next 10 [10, 11, 11, 11, 11] sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 9 [9, 9, 9, 11, 11] sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 [10, 11, 11, 11, 11] sts, 2 [1, 2, 2, 1, 2] sc in next st,
Repeat from * to **, sc in next 2 [2, 5, 2, 3, 6] sts, 1 [1, 2, 1, 1, 2] sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 [8, 5, 9, 9, 6] sts. (81 [81, 87, 87, 87, 93] sts)
Row 2: Ch 3, turn, 4 dc in next st, (sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, sk next 2 sts, fan in next st) 12 [12, 13, 13, 13, 14] times, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, sk next 2 sts, 4 dc in next st, dc in last st, changing to aqua. (12 [12, 13, 13, 13, 14] fans)
Row 3: With aqua, ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (ch 3, cl, ch 3, sc in ch-1 sp at top of fan) 12 [12, 13, 13, 13, 14] times, ch 3, cl, ch 3, sc in last st. (13 [13, 14, 14, 14, 15] cls)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (sk next ch-3 sp, fan in next cl, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc) 12 [12, 13, 13, 13, 14] times, fan in last cl, sc in last st, changing to yellow. (13 [13, 14, 14, 14, 15] fans)
Row 5: Ch 3, turn, hcl, (ch 3, sc in ch-1 sp at top of fan, ch 3, cl) 12 [12, 13, 13, 13, 14] times, ch 3, sc in ch-1 sp at top of fan, ch 3, hcl, dc in last st. (12 [12, 13, 13, 13, 14] cls, 2 hcls)
Row 6: Ch 3, turn, 4 dc in top of hcl, (sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc, sk next ch-3 sp, fan in next cl) 12 [12, 13, 13, 13, 14] times, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc, sk next ch-3 sp, 4 dc in top of hcl, dc in last st, changing to green. (12 [12, 13, 13, 13, 14] fans)
Rows 7-8: With green, repeat rows 3 & 4, changing to aqua at the end of row 8 (instead of yellow)
Rows 9-10: With aqua, repeat rows 5 & 6, changing to yellow at the end of row 10 (instead of green)
Rows 11-12: With yellow, repeat rows 3 & 4, changing to green at the end of row 12 (instead of yellow)
Rows 13-14: With green, repeat rows 5 & 6, changing to aqua at the end of row 14 (instead of green)
Sizes 6 months, 12 months, 18 months only:
Row 15: Repeat row 3, changing to green at end of row.
Row 16: With green, ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, 3 hdc in next ch-3 sp, (hdc in next cl, 2 hdc in next ch-3 sp, hdc in next sc, 2 hdc in next ch-3 sp) 12 [12, 13] times, hdc in next cl, 3 hdc in last ch-3 sp, hdc in last st. (81 [81, 87] hdc)
Row 17 (WS): Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, do not fasten off.
Sizes 2T, 3T & 4T only:
Rows 15-17: Repeat rows 3 -5, changing to green at end of row 17.
Row 18: With green, ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, (hdc in next hcl, 2 hdc in next ch-3 sp, hdc in next sc, 2 hdc in next ch-3 sp) 14 [14, 15] times, hdc in next hcl, hdc in last st. (87 [87, 93] hdc)
Row 19 (WS): Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, do not fasten off.
Left Button Band:
Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, working into sides of rows, work 40 [40, 42, 46, 48, 48] hdc evenly spaced across left front (ending at top of yoke).
Rows 2-3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, do not fasten off.
Collar:
Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, working into sides of rows, work 4 sc evenly spaced across top of button band. Now working into foundation ch (at neckline), sc in each ch across, do not fasten off. 55 [57, 59, 61, 61, 63] sc
Right Button Band:
Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, working into sides of rows, work 41 [41, 43, 47, 49, 49] hdc evenly spaced across right front (ending at bottom).
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 [2, 3, 3, 2, 2] sts, {ch 1 (buttonhole), sk next st, sc in next 8 [8, 8, 7, 8, 8] sts} 4 [4, 4, 5, 5, 5] times, ch 1, sk next st, sc in last 2 [2, 3, 3, 1, 1] sts. (5 [5, 5, 6, 6, 6] buttonholes)
Row 3:
Sizes 6 months, 12 months, 18 months & 2T only: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 1 [1, 2, 2] sts, (sk next st, 3 sc in next sp, sk next st, sc in next 5 [6, 6, 5] sts) 4 [4, 4, 5] times, sk next st, 3 sc in last sp, sk next st, sc in last 1 [1, 2, 2] sts. (41 [41, 43, 47] sc)
Sizes 3T & 4T only: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, (3 sc in next sp, sk next st, sc in next 5 [6] sts, sk next st) 5 times, 3 sc in last ch sp, sc in last st. (49 sc)
Edging (RS):
- Ch 1, turn, (sl st, ch 1) in each st on right button band
- Working in sides of rows, (sl st, ch 1) in each row across top of right button band.
- Continuing across collar, (sl st, ch 1) in each st across.
- Continuing across left button band, (sl st, ch 1) in each st across.
- Working in sides of rows, (sl st, ch 1) in each row across bottom of left button band.
- Continuing across bottom, (sl st, ch 1) in each st across.
- Working in sides of rows, (sl st, ch 1) in each row across bottom of right button band, join to starting ch, fasten off.
Sleeve:
With WS [WS, RS, WS, WS, RS] facing, join green with sl st in 3rd underarm ch (center of underarm).
Rnd 1 (WS [WS, RS, WS, WS, RS]): With green, sc in same ch and in next 1[ 2, 1, 2, 1, 2] chs, hdc in sides of next 2 rows, dc in next 20 [21, 24, 25, 27, 28] sts, hdc in sides of next 2 rows, sc in next 2 underarm chs, join with sl st in first st. (28 [30, 32, 34, 35, 37]) sts.
Sizes 3T & 4T only – Rnd 2: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st around, join with sl st in first st.
All sizes:
Rnds 2-3 [2-3, 2-3, 2-3, 3-4, 3-4]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st around to last 2 sts, dc2tog (see Special Stitches) in last 2 sts, join with sl st in first st. (26 [28, 30, 32, 33, 35]) sts
Rnd 4 [4, 4, 4, 5, 5]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st around, join with sl st in first st.
Rnds 5-13 [5-13, 5-13, 5-16, 6-17, 6-20]: Repeat rnds 2-4 [2-4, 2-4, 2-4, 3-5, 3-5] 3 [3, 3, 4, 4, 5] times (20 [22, 24, 24, 25, 25] sts)
Size 12 months only – Rnds 14-15: Repeat rnds 2-3. (20 sts)
Size 18 months only – Rnds 14-16: Repeat rnds 2-3, then repeat rnd 2 again. (21 sts)
Size 2T only – Rnd 17: Repeat rnd 2. (23 sts)
Size 3T only – Rnds 18-19: Repeat rnds 4-5 (24 sts)
All sizes – Edging rnd (RS): Ch 1, turn, (sl st, ch 1) in each st around, join with sl st in first st, fasten off.
Repeat sleeve instructions for 2nd sleeve.
Finishing:
Sew buttons to left button band so that they line up with the buttonholes on the right button band.
Weave in all ends.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern.
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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Free Pattern – Hugs & Kisses
Wrap your child in love with this lightweight, tunic length pullover. The hugs & kisses detail on the hem and sleeves is easy to make, with alternating X stitches and clusters. With a casual fit and side slits, this comfy sweater could easily become an everyday favorite!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains sponsored content and affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Hugs & Kisses
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Materials:
- Plymouth Dreambaby DK yarn – 2 [2, 3, 3, 3, 4] skeins #0124 Cornflower
- Size G / 6 / 4 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn or Tapestry needle
- 3 locking stitch markers
Difficulty:
Intermediate – Mostly half double crochet stitches, some special stitches and simple shaping.
Sizes:
Instructions are written for 6 months, with changes for 12 months, 18 months, 2T, 3T, and 4T in [ ].
Gauge:
16 hdc x 12 rows = 4 inches. Correct gauge is important for a good fit – take time to check your gauge.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- tr = treble crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- yo = yarn over
- X = X stitch (see special stitches)
- hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 stitches together (see special stitches)
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- rnd = round
- WS = wrong side
- RS = right side
Special Stitches:
X-stitch (X): Sk next 2 sts, tr in next st, ch 1, working behind tr just made, tr in first of the 2 skipped stitches.
Cluster (cl): (Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo and draw up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook) 4 times in same st, yo and pull through all five loops on hook, ch 1 to close.
Beg Cluster (beg cl): Ch 2, (Yo, insert hook in same st, yo and draw up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook) 3 times, yo and pull through all four loops on hook, ch 1 to close.
Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hdc2tog): Yo, (insert hook in next st, yo and draw up a loop) twice, yo and pull through all four loops on hook.
Recommended Resources:
Schematic:
Instructions:
Front & Back Hem (make 2) :
Ch 42 [43, 45, 47, 49, 50] loosely.
Row 1 (RS [RS, RS, WS, WS, WS]): Working in back bar of the chain, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (41 [42, 44, 46, 48, 49] sts)
Rows 2 – 5 [5, 5, 6, 6, 6]: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across.
Fasten off after first hem section, but do not fasten off after 2nd hem section.
Body:
Note: Join rounds with slip stitch in first st of round, unless otherwise stated.
Rnd 1 (RS): Continuing on 2nd hem section, ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across, now working into last row of 1st hem section, with RS [RS, RS, WS, WS, WS] facing, hdc in each st across, join. (82, [84, 88, 92, 96, 98] sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st around, join.
Sizes 6 month & 3T only:
Rnd 3: Turn, sl st in first 2 sts, beg cl (see Special Stitches), ch1, sk next st, (X (see Special Stitches), ch 1, sk next st, cl (see Special Stitches) in next st, ch 1, sk next st) 13 [15] times, X, ch 1, join.
Rnd 4: Turn, sl st in ch sp, ch 1, hdc in same sp and in each ch sp and st around, join. (84 [96] sts)
Sizes 12 month & 4T only:
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, *(ch 1, sk next st, cl (see Special Stitches) in next st, ch 1, sk next st, X (see Special Stitches)) 7 [8] times,** hdc in next 2 sts, rep from * to **, hdc in last st, join.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each ch sp and st around, join. (88 [100] sts)
Sizes 18 month & 2T only:
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, *(ch 1, sk next st, cl (see Special Stitches) in next st, ch 1, sk next st, X (see Special Stitches)) 7 times, ch 1, sk next st, cl in next st, ch 1, sk next st,** hdc in next st, rep from * to **, join.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each ch sp and st around, join. (92 sts)
All Sizes: Rnds 5-20 [21, 22, 23, 24, 24]: Rep rnd 2. Do not fasten off.
Yoke:
Rnd 1 (RS [WS, RS, RS, WS, RS]): Turn, sl st in first st, ch 1, *hdc in next 40 [42, 44, 44, 46, 48] sts, ch 30 [32, 34, 36, 38, 40],** sk next 2 sts, rep from * to **, sk last st, join. (70 [74, 78, 80, 84, 88] sts, 2 ch sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc dec (see Special Stitches) in first 2 chs, *hdc in next 26 [28, 30, 32, 34, 36] chs, hdc dec in next 2 chs, mark last st worked, hdc dec in next 2 sts, hdc in next 36 [38, 40, 40, 42, 44] sts, hdc dec in next 2 sts,** mark last st worked, hdc dec in next 2 chs, rep from * to **, join. (132 [140, 148, 152, 160, 168] sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, hdc dec, (hdc in each st across to two sts before next marker, hdc dec, move marker to last st worked, hdc dec) 3 times, hdc in each st across to last 2 sts, hdc dec, join. (124 [132, 140, 144, 152, 160] sts)
Rnds 4-12 [13, 14, 14, 15, 16]: Rep rnd 3. Do not fasten off. (52 [52, 52, 56, 56, 56]sts).
Next Rnd (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first st.
Sleeves:
With WS facing, join yarn with sl st at center of underarm.
Rnd 1 (WS): Ch 1, Work 34 [36, 38, 40, 42, 44] hdc evenly spaced around armhole opening, join.
Sizes 18 months, 2T, 3T, & 4T only: Rnd(s) 2 [2, 2-3, 2-3]: Ch 1, turn, hdc in next st and in each st around, join.
Next Rnd: Ch 1, turn, hdc dec, hdc in next st and in each st around, join. (33 [35, 37, 39, 41, 43] sts)
Next Rnds: Rep last rnd 13 [15, 15, 17, 17, 19]times. (20 [20, 22, 22, 24, 24] sts)
Sizes 18 months, 2T, 3T, & 4T only: Rep Rnd 2 once (once, twice, twice)
Pattern Rnd:
Sizes 6month & 12 month only: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, [ch 1, sk next st, cl in next st, ch 1, sk next st, X] 3 times, hdc in last st, join.
Sizes 18 month & 2T only: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first st, [ch 1, sk next st, cl in next st, ch 1, sk next st, X] 3 times, ch 1, sk next st, cl in next st, ch 1, sk last st, join.
Sizes 3T & 4T only: Turn, beg cl, [ch 1, sk next st, X, ch 1, sk next st, cl in next st] 3 times, ch 1, sk next st, X, ch 1, join.
Next Rnd: Ch 1, hdc in each st and sp around. (20 [20, 22, 22, 24, 24] sts)
Rnds 18-20 [20-22, 22-24, 24-26, 26-28, 28-30]: Ch 1, turn, hdc in next st and in each st around, join.
Rep sleeve instructions for 2nd sleeve
Hem Edging:
- With RS facing, join with sl st in last (first, last, first, last, first) st of row 1 of front hem section. See schematic for placement.
- Working into bottom of row 1 of front hem, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across to last st on front, 2 sc in last st.
- Working into sides of rows, work 10 [10, 10, 12, 12, 12] sc across side slit
- Working into bottom of row 1 of back hem, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across to last st on back, 2 sc in last st.
- Working into sides of rows, work 10 [10, 10, 12, 12, 12] sc across side slit, join. (108 [112, 116, 120, 124, 128] sts)
Fasten off and weave in all ends
I hope you enjoy the pattern. Thanks to Plymouth for providing the yarn! A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches ‘N’ Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches ‘N’ Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!
Free Pattern – Lacy Ruffles
This easy design is decorated with pretty ruffles around the collar, hem, and sleeves. With a lightweight yarn and frilly cap sleeves, this sweater is perfect for sunny summer weather, or can be worn over a long sleeve shirt for cooler weather. The adorable model in the picture is wearing a sample that’s about 1 size too big for her.
This pattern was designed for the 2017 Summer Activities Crochet Along, and my theme was “Playing in the Sunshine.” Check out the main CAL post for more information, and great summer themed patterns!
This pattern is protected by copyright. Please do not distribute or share this pattern in any way other than by sharing a link to this page or to the pattern page on Ravelry. Click here for copyright information.
This pattern contains sponsored content and affiliate links (click for more info). If you click one of these links and then make a purchase, I may be compensated. You get the same great prices, and you will be helping to support this site!
Lacy Ruffles
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Materials:
- Caron Simply Soft Light yarn – 2 [2, 2, 2, 2, 3] skeins #0018 Coral
- Size H / 8 / 5 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn or Tapestry needle
- 1 locking stitch marker
- Optional: Ribbon flowers or other embellishments as desired
Difficulty:
Easy – Mostly dc stitches, some simple shaping.
Sizes:
Instructions are written for 6 months, with changes for 12 months, 18 months, 2T, 3T, and 4T in [ ].
Gauge:
15 dc x 10 rows = 4 inches. Correct gauge is important for a good fit – take time to check your gauge.
Abbreviations used:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- yo = yarn over
- V = V stitch (see special stitches)
- hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 stitches together (see special stitches)
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- rnd = round
- WS = wrong side
- RS = right side
Special Stitches:
V-stitch (V): (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.
Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hdc2tog): Yo, (insert hook in next st, yo and draw up a loop) twice, yo and pull through all four loops on hook.
Fan: (dc, ch 1) 4 times in indicated st, dc in same st. (5 dc, 4 chs)
Recommended Resources:
- Working into the back bump
- Half double crochet 2 together (hdc2tog)
- Front loop only and back loop only – by Moogly
Schematic:
Instructions:
Yoke:
Ch 54 [56, 58, 60, 62, 62] loosely. Do not join. Mark first ch (for use with edging later).
Note: Joining after rnd 1, instead of at the starting chain, makes it easier to join without twisting. This will leave a slight gap at the bottom, which you can close when sewing in tails. Join with a slip stitch in first st of round, unless otherwise stated.
Rnd 1 (RS [WS, RS, WS, RS, WS]): Working in back bumps of chs, ch 3 (counts as dc, now and throughout), turn, dc in next 19 [7, 8, 19, 19, 11] sts, ch 1, dc in next 7 [20, 20, 10, 11, 20] sts, ch 1, dc in next 20 [8, 9, 20, 20, 12] sts, ch 1, dc in next 7 [20, 20, 10, 11, 20] sts, ch 1. Join, being careful not to twist the round. (54 [56, 58, 60, 62, 64] sts, 4 sps)
Rnds 2-8 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11): Turn, sl st in first sp, ch 3, (dc in each st across to next sp, V in next sp) 3 times, dc in each st across, (dc, ch 1) in first sp, join. (110 [120, 122, 132, 134, 142] sts, 4 sps)
Rnd 9 (10, 10, 11, 11, 12): Turn, sl st in first sp, ch 3, *dc in each st across to next sp, dc in next sp, ch 5 [4, 5, 4, 5, 4] (underarm), sk next 21 [24, 25, 28, 29, 32] sts,** dc in next sp, rep from * to **, join, (72 [76, 76, 80, 80, 84] sts), do not fasten off.
Body:
Rnd 1 (WS [WS, RS, RS, WS, WS):
Sizes 6 months, 18 months, 2T, 3T, & 4T only: Turn, sl st in first 3 underarm chs, ch 3, dc in same ch, *dc in next 2 [2, 1, 2, 1] chs, dc in next 36 [38, 40, 40, 42] sts, dc in next 2 chs,** 2 dc in next ch, rep from * to **, join. (84 [88, 90, 92, 94] sts)
Size 12 months only: Turn, sl st in first 3 underarm chs, ch 3, dc in next ch, dc in each ch and in each st around, join. (84 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 40 [40, 42, 43, 45, 46] sts, 1 [1, 1, 1, 2, 2] dc in next st, dc in next 41 [41, 43, 44, 45, 46] sts, 1 [1, 1, 1, 2, 2] dc in last st, join. (84 [84, 88, 90, 94, 96] sts)
Rnds 3-14 [14, 15, 15, 16, 16]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st around, join. (84 [84, 88, 90, 94, 96] sts)
Rnd 15 [15, 16, 16, 17, 17]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 40 [40, 42, 43, 45, 46] sts, 1 [1, 1, 1, 2, 2] dc in next st, dc in next 41 [41, 43, 44, 46, 47] sts, 1 [1, 2, 1, 2, 1] dc in last st, join. (84 [84, 90, 90, 96, 96] sts), do not fasten off.
Hem Ruffle:
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 3, turn, *sk next 2 sts, fan in next st, sk next 2 sts,** dc in next st, rep from * 13 [13, 14, 14, 15, 15] times, ending at ** on last repeat, join. (14 [14, 15, 15, 16, 16] fans)
Rnd 2: Ch 4 (see Pattern Notes), turn, *{sk next st, V in next sp, ch 1,} 4 times, sk next st** dc in next st, ch 1, rep from * 13 [13, 14, 14, 15, 15] times, ending at ** on last repeat, join to 3rd ch of starting ch 4. (126 [126, 135, 135, 144, 144] dc)
Rnd 3: Turn, sl st in next sp, Ch 4, dc in same sp, *ch 1, sk next st, V in next sp repeat from * to last st, ch 1, sk last st, join to 3rd ch of starting ch 4. Fasten off. (252 [252, 270, 288, 288] dc)
Collar Ruffle:
With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in marked ch
Rnd 1 (RS):
Sizes 6 mo & 2T only: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, join. (54 [60] sts)
Sizes 12 mo & 3T only: Ch 1, hdc in first 23 [24] sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 26 [29] sts, hdc2tog, hdc in last 3 [5] sts, join. (54 [60] sts)
Sizes 18 months & 4T only: Ch 1, hdc in next 4 [26] sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 28 [31] sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in last 24 [5] sts, join. (60 [66] sts).
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, working in back loops only, hdc in each st around, join. (54 [54, 60, 60, 60, 66] sts)
Rnd 3:Ch 3, turn, *sk next 2 sts, fan (see Special Stitches) in next st, sk next 2 sts,** dc in next st, rep from * 8 [8, 9, 9, 9, 10] times, ending at ** on last repeat, join. (9 [9, 10, 10, 10, 11] fans)
Rnd 4: Ch 4, turn, *{sk next st, V in next sp, ch 1} 4 times, sk next st** dc in next st, ch 1, rep from * 8 [8, 9, 9, 9, 10] times, ending at ** on last repeat, join to 3rd ch of starting ch 4. (81 [81, 90, 90, 90, 99] dc)
Sleeve Ruffle:
With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in bottom of 3rd underarm ch from last rnd of yoke (center of underarm).
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in same ch and in next 2 [1, 2, 1, 2, 1] chs, 2 [3, 3, 2, 3, 3] sc in side of st from last rnd of yoke, hdc in next 21 [24, 25, 28, 29, 32] sts, 2 [3, 3, 2, 3, 3] sc in side of st from last rnd of yoke, sc in last 2 chs. (30 [34, 36, 36, 40, 42] sts)
Rnd 2:
Sizes 6 months, 18 months, 2T, and 4T only: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around. (30 [36, 36, 42] sc
Sizes 12 months & 3T only: Ch 1, turn, hdc in first 8 [10] sts, 2 hdc in next st, sc in next 16 [18] sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in last 8 [10] sts. (36 [42] sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 3, turn, *sk next 2 sts, fan (see Special Stitches) in next st, sk next 2 sts,** dc in next st, rep from * 4 [5, 5, 5, 6, 6] times, ending at ** on last repeat, join. (5 [6, 6, 6, 7, 7] fans)
Rnd 4: Ch 4, turn, *{sk next st, V in next sp, ch 1} 4 times, sk next st** dc in next st, ch 1, rep from * 13 [13, 14, 14, 15, 15] times, ending at ** on last repeat, join to 3rd ch of starting ch 4. (45 [54, 54, 54, 63, 63] dc)
Rnd 5: Turn, sl st in next sp, ch 4, dc in same sp, *ch 1, sk next st, V in next sp, ch 1, repeat from * to last st, ch 1, sk last st, join to 3rd ch of starting ch 4. Fasten off. (90 [108, 108, 108, 126, 126] dc).
Repeat sleeve ruffle instructions for 2nd sleeve.
Finishing:
- Sew in any remaining ends
- Sew on any embellishments as desired (optional).
I hope you enjoy the pattern. Thanks to Yarnspirations for providing the yarn! A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available on Ravelry, for a fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
Do you want the best of Stitches ‘N’ Scraps delivered right to your inbox? The Stitches ‘N’ Scraps email newsletter includes highlights from the blog as well as special features not available elsewhere. Don’t miss a stitch – Subscribe now!