Free Pattern – New Eastside

With its urban style and a casual fit, the comfy, New Eastside cardigan may become your go-to jacket for spring and fall! The simple construction is almost seamless, with limited shaping, patch pockets, and an optional zipper.

New Eastside was designed with Lion Brand Scarfie yarn, which I received free from Lion Brand. It’s a bulky, wool blend yarn that works up quickly for a warm, soft, and fluffy fabric. The self-striping yarn, combined with the construction of the sweater creates the unique combination of stripes and color blocking.

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New Eastside

 
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Materials:

• 4 skeins Lion Brand Scarfie (925-1150 yds total) – shown in #218 Teal / Silver.
  Note: You may be able to make the small size with just 3 skeins, but it will be very close. 
• Size K / 6.5 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• Yarn needle
• Locking stitch markers
• 20 inch, separating zipper (optional)
• Sewing pins, thread, and needle for zipper (optional)

Size:

Instructions shown for size S, with changes for M, L, and XL in [ ].

Abbreviations used:

(Pattern is written in US terms)

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• dc2tog = double crochet 2 stitches together.
• sl st = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• sp(s) = space(s)
• rnd = round
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side

Recommended Resources:

• Learn to Crochet Series
• Whip Stitch Seaming on Moogly
• Zippers in Knits on Purl Soho (works for crochet too!)

Instructions:

Bottom: 

Note: Ch 3 at at the beginning of a row or round counts as a dc throughout. The ch 4 at the beginning of row 1 is a foundation chain plus a dc. 

Row 1 (RS [WS, RS, RS]): Ch 106 [118, 130, 140], dc in 4th ch from hook and each ch across. (104 [116, 128, 138] dc)

Rows 2-22 [23, 22, 22]: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across.

Right front:

Row 23 [24, 23, 23] (RS):  Ch 3, turn, dc in next 23 [26, 29, 32] sts, dc2tog, leaving remaining sts unworked. Sk first 2 unworked sts, place a marker in 3rd unworked st. (24 [27, 30, 33] sts)

Rows 24-32 [25-33, 24-32, 24-33]: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across.

Shape neckline:

Sizes S & M only:

Row 33 [34] (RS): Turn, sl st in first 7 [8] sts, ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in each remaining st across. (17 [19] sts)

Row 34 [35]: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across to last 2 sts, dc2tog. (16 [18] sts).

Row 35 [36]: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, sk first st, dc in next st and in each remaining st across. (15 [17] sts)

Row 36 [37]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st across.

Row 37 [38] (RS): Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across to last 3 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in last st. Fasten off.

Size L only:

Row 33 (RS): Turn, sl st in first 8 sts, ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in each remaining st across. (22 sts)

Rows 34-35: Work as for rows 34-35 of  size S. (20 sts on row 35)

Rows 36-37: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st across.

Row 38 (WS): Turn, sl st in first st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in each remaining st across. Fasten off.

Size XL only:

Row 34 (WS): Ch 3, turn, dc in next 22 sts, dc2tog, leaving last 8 sts unworked. (24 sts)

Row 35: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, sk first st, dc in next st and in each remaining st across. (23 sts)

Row 36: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across to last 2 sts, dc2tog. (22 sts).

Rows 37-38: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across.

Row 39 (RS): Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across to last 3 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in last st. Fasten off.

Back:  

With RS facing, join yarn in marked stitch from row 23 [23, 22, 22] of body. This should be the third unworked stitch from that row. Remove marker.

Row 24 [24, 23, 23] (RS):  Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), turn, sk first st, dc in next 47 [53, 59, 64] sts, dc2tog, leaving remaining sts unworked. Sk first 2 unworked sts, place a marker in 3rd unworked st. (48 [54, 60, 65] sts)

Rows 25-35 [25-36, 24-35, 24-36]: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across.

First shoulder:

Row 36 [37, 36, 37]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 14 [16, 20, 22] sts, dc2tog, leaving remaining sts unworked. (16 [18, 22, 24] sts)

Sizes S & M only:

Row 37 [38]: Ch 2 (does not count as a st, turn, sk first st, dc in next 12 [14] sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in last st.  (14 [16] sts)

Adjustment row: Turn, sk first st st, sl st in next st and in each st across – this should bring the working yarn to the top of the neckline. Do not fasten off.

Sizes L & XL only:

Row 37 [38]: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, sk first st, dc in each remaining st across. (21 [23] sts)

Row 38 [39]: Turn, sl st in first st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in each st across to last 2 sts, dc2tog. Do not fasten off. (19 [21] sts)

Second shoulder:

Working in sides of rows from first shoulder, sl st in the side of each row. Your working yarn should now be at the unworked stitches from row 35 [36, 35, 36]

Row 36 [37, 36, 37]: Sl st in first 15 [17, 15, 16] unworked sts from row 35 [36, 35, 36]. Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in next st and in each st across. (16 [18, 22, 24] sts)

Sizes S & M only:

Row 37 [38]: Turn, sl st in first st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in each st across to last 2 sts, dc2tog. Fasten off.  (14 [16] sts)

Sizes L & XL only:

Row 37 [38]: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across to last 2 sts, dc2tog. (21 [23] sts)

Row 38 [39]: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, sk first st, dc in next 17 [19] sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in last st. Fasten off.  (19 [21] sts)

Left front:

With RS facing, join yarn in marked stitch from row 23 [23, 22, 22] of body. This should be the third unworked stitch from that row. Remove marker.

Row 23 [24, 23, 23] (RS):  Ch 2 (does not count as a st), sk first st, dc in each st across.  (24 [27, 30, 33] sts)

Rows 24-32 [25-33, 24-32, 24-33]: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st across.

Shape Neckline:

Sizes S & M only:

Row 33 [34] (RS): Ch 3, turn, dc in next 15 [17] sts, dc2tog, leaving last 6 [7] sts unworked. (17 [19] sts)

Row 34 [35]: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, sk first st, dc in next st and in each remaining st across. (16 [18] sts)

Row 35 [36]: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across to last 2 sts, dc2tog. (15 [17] sts).

Row 36 [37]: Ch 3, turn, dc next st and in each st across.

Row 37 [38] (RS): Turn, sl st in first st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in each remaining st across. Fasten off. (14 [16] sts)

Size L only:

Row 33 (RS): Ch 3, turn, dc in next 20 sts, dc2tog, leaving last 7 sts unworked. (23 sts)

Rows 34-35: Work as for rows 34-35 of  size S. (20 sts on row 35)

Rows 36-37: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across.

Row 38 (WS): Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across to last 3 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in last st. Fasten off. (19 sts)

Size XL only:

Row 34 (WS): Turn, sl st in first 9 sts, ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in next st and in each remaining st across. (24 sts)

Row 35: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across to last 2 sts, dc2tog. (23 sts).

Row 36: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, sk first st, dc in next st and in each remaining st across. (22 sts)

Rows 37-38: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across.

Row 39 (RS): Turn, sl st in first st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in each remaining st across. Fasten off. (21 sts)

Sleeves:  

With right sides together, sew fronts to back at shoulder seams.

Rnd 1: With WS [WS, RS, RS] facing, join yarn with sc in the 2nd of the 2 skipped underarm stitches. Working in sides of rows, work 48 [50, 52, 54] dc evenly spaced around armhole opening, sc in the other skipped underarm st, join with sl st to first sc. (50 [52, 54, 56] sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, sk first st, dc in each st around to last 2 sts, dc2tog. (48, [50, 52, 54] sts)

Rnd 3: Ch 3, turn, dc in next st and in each st around, join with sl st.

Rnds 4-27 [27, 29, 29]: Repeat rnds 2 – 3 twelve [twelve, thirteen, thirteen] times (24 [26, 26, 28] sts on last rnd)

Sizes S & M only – Rnd 28: Repeat rnd 3 once more.

Fasten off. Repeat sleeve instructions for 2nd sleeve.

Pockets (make 2): 

Ch 17 [18, 19, 20]

Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (16 [17, 18, 19] sts)

Rows 2-18 [20, 20, 22]: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

Fasten off, leaving a 30″ tail for sewing.

Edging: 

With right side facing, join yarn at bottom corner of left front.

Rnd 1 (RS):

Ch 1, sc in each st across bottom. (104 [116, 128, 138] sts)

Ch 1, working in sides of rows, work 50 [52, 50, 52] sc evenly spaced along right front edge, up to neckline. (50 [52, 50, 52] sts)

Ch 1, working along neckline, work 16 [17, 18, 19] sc evenly spaced to shoulder seam, 30 [32, 32, 34] sc evenly spaced around back of neck to opposite shoulder, 16 [17, 18, 19] sc evenly spaced to left front edge. (62 [66, 68, 72] sts)

Ch 1, working in sides of rows, work 50 [52, 50, 52] sc evenly spaced along left front edge, to hem. Ch 1, join with sl st to first sc of round. (50 [52, 50, 52] sts)

Rnd 2: Turn, sl st in first ch sp, ch 1, sc in same ch sp, *sc in each sc across to next ch sp, (sc, ch 1, sc) in ch sp, repeat from * twice more, sc in each sc across to starting ch sp, sc in starting ch sp, ch 1, join with sl st to first sc. (274 [294, 304, 322] sts)

Rnd 3: Turn, sl st in first ch sp, ch 1, sc in same ch sp, (sc in each sc across to next ch sp, 3 sc in ch sp) 3 times, sc in each sc across to starting ch sp, 2 sc in starting ch sp, join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

Finishing: 

(Click any of the images to view larger – opens in new window or tab)

Wash and block sweater and pockets. Doing this before sewing on the pockets and zipper will help you get straighter seams and cleaner edges.

Lay sweater flat and pin pockets into place using safety pins or stitch markers. Sew pockets onto front of sweater.

Weave in all ends.

Zipper (optional):

With zipper closed, pin into place on one side of sweater. Placing a magazine or piece of cardboard between the layers will help ensure you don’t pin through multiple layers. Be sure sweater does not get caught in or overlap zipper teeth. The top of the zipper should line up with top of sweater, and it should lay flat with no puckers. If the zipper is a little bit short and doesn’t quite reach to the bottom of the sweater, that’s ok, but it should not extend past the bottom of the sweater. The zipper I used in these images was almost too long and I have recommended a slightly shorter zipper in the pattern.

Sew along front edge using a backstitch. Fold down the excess fabric at top of zipper and sew through both layers.

With zipper closed, pin into place on the opposite side of sweater and sew along edge in the same way. If it helps for sewing, it’s ok to open the zipper once it is pinned securely in place.

Open zipper and turn to wrong side. Whipstitch outer edge of zipper to inside of sweater.

I hope you enjoy making this pattern. Big thanks to namihn for editing / reviewing it!

A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

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