Easy Crochet Wrap – Icing on the Cape

Wrap yourself in luxury with Icing on the Cape! The full circle construction and soft, wool blend yarn give this cape a generous, flowing fit and amazing drape. A contrasting border adds a dramatic flair. With a single row repeat through most of the design, this easy crochet wrap really is a piece of cake…complete with icing!

Icing on the Cape - easy crochet pattern on Stitches n Scraps

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Furls Blog Hop 2020 Make Along

I designed this easy crochet wrap pattern for the 2020 Furls Blog Hop. This event has been running throughout the year, with a new pattern each week. Check out all the great patterns so far, and keep checking back for the new ones!

Furls Blog Hop 2020

As part of the blog hop event, Furls provided me with all the yarn for this design, plus a free hook.

Whims Merino Z-Twist Yarn

This cape design was my first time trying Whims Merino Z-Twist Yarn, and I’m completely in love! It checks all the boxes for me.

What is Z-twist?

Z-twist refers to the direction in which the yarn is spun. In most commercial yarns, the plies are spun together counterclockwise, which is called an S-twist. In a Z-twist yarn, the plies are spun together clockwise.

Why does this matter? Crocheting produces a clockwise motion, which can actually untwist an S-twist yarn, leading to splitting. With a Z-twist yarn, the crochet motion tightens the twist instead, creating stunning stitch definition.

Whims Merino Z-Twist Yarn

Mad for merino

As a spinner, merino wool is my absolute favorite fiber to work with. Individual merino fibers tend to be long and have a lot of crimp to them, like tiny springs. This makes the finished yarn incredibly soft, smooth, and bouncy.

Nylon for strength and shine

Whims Merino is a 50/50 blend of nylon and merino. Nylon adds durability to make your finished project last longer. It also adds amazing shine! Combined with merino, it’s a strong, glossy, springy yarn that’s just a joy to work with.

Furls Odyssey Crochet Hook

I wasn’t sure I would like a Furls hook. The shape is so different from what I’m used to, and they are heavier than my normal hooks too. I thought I would find it uncomfortable. I was wrong.

Generally I use metal hooks, so I chose an Odyssey hook for it’s metal tip. I went with blue and nickel. It took about 2 rows for me to get used to it, and then I was hooked. The shape fits comfortably in my hands, and I found I was able to crochet a bit longer than usual without my hands getting tired. The metal tip is slick and fast, and I love the sparkles in the handle too!

Furls Odyssey crochet hook

The thing that took the most getting used to was the smoothness of the handle. I’m used to soft grips that are more “squishy” so at first the hook slid around in my hand a bit. But once I got used to it, I think I automatically adjusted my grip slightly and that stopped happening.

Icing on the Cape

Project Level Easy

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Project Level

Easy: Basic stitches, repeating pattern, working into sides of rows, picots.


Adult – One size fits most.

Icing on the Cape Schematic


13 dc x 7 rows = 4 inches

Abbreviations used

(Pattern is written in US terms)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
csdc = chainless starting double crochet (optional – see Recommended Resources)
ch-sp = chain space
st(s) = stitch(es)
sk = skip
RS = right side
WS = wrong side

Special Stitch

Picot: Ch 3, sl st in last st worked.

See this tutorial for a more detailed look and other placement options.

method 1 slip stitch - Picots 2 Ways Tutorial on StitchesnScraps.com


Main section is worked from the top down. First 3 chs of row 1 count as a dc.

The chainless starting double crochet (csdc) stitch creates a cleaner edge. However, if you prefer, you can replace csdc with “ch 3, counts as dc” throughout the pattern.

Main Section (Charcoal)

Foundation: With charcoal, ch 65

Row 1 (WS): Dc in 4th ch from hook and in next 4 chs, [(dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch, dc in next 9 chs] 5 times, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch, dc in last 6 chs. (69 dc, 6 ch-1 sps)

Row 2: Turn, csdc, [dc in each st to next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp] 6 times, dc in each st across. (81 dc, 6 ch-1 sps)

Rows 3-31: Repeat row 2. (429 dc, 6 ch-1 sps)

Main Section Edging (Charcoal):

Rnd 1 RS: (Total: 600 sts, 4 ch-1 sps)

  • Bottom: Turn, csdc, [dc in each st to next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp] 6 times, dc in each st across. (441 dc)
  • Right Front: Do not turn. Ch 1, place a marker in this ch, working in sides of rows, 48 sc evenly spaced along side edge. (48 sc, 1 ch-1 sp)
  • Top: Working in bottom of foundation chains, ch 1, place a marker in this ch, sc in each ch across. (63 sc, 1 ch-1 sp)
  • Left Front: Ch 1, working sides of rows, 48 sc evenly spaced along side edge, ch 1, sl st to first st of rnd, fasten off. (48 sc, 2 ch-1 sps)
Edging stitch counts for the main section of the cape
This diagram shows stitch counts only and does not include the chain spaces in each corner.

Collar (White)

Row 1 (RS): Join white with sl st in marked ch-1 sp on top, remove marker. Sc in same ch-1 sp, sc in next 63 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp. (65 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, fasten off. (65 sc)

Bottom Border (White)

Row 1 (WS): Join white with sl st in marked ch-1 sp on bottom, remove marker. Ch 2 (counts as dc), [dc in each st to next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp] 6 times, dc in each st across to next ch-1 sp (corner), dc in ch-1 sp. Do not fasten off. (455 dc, 6 ch-1 sps)

Button Band & Edging (White)

Rnd 1 (RS):

  • Bottom: Turn, csdc, [dc in each st to next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp] 6 times, dc in each st across. Do not fasten off. (467 dc, 6 ch-1 sps)
  • Right front: Ch 1, working in sides of rows, 3 sc evenly spaced across bottom border, working into right front edging, sc next 28 sts, ch 9, sl st in last sc worked, [sc in next 10 sts, ch 9, sl st in last sc worked] twice, working in sides of rows, sc in each row across collar. (54 sc, 3 ch-9 loops, 1 ch-1 sp)
Making a chain loop for a button
  • Collar: Ch 1, sc in each st around collar (65 sc, 1 ch-1 sp)
  • Left front: Ch 1, working in sides of rows, 3 sc evenly spaced across collar, sc in each st across left front edging, working in sides of rows 3 sc evenly spaced across bottom border, ch 1, join with sl at to first st. (54 sc, 2 ch-1 sps)

On next rnd, work behind ch-9 loops when you come to them.

Rnd 2 (RS): (643 sc, 118 picots)

  • Bottom: Do not turn. Ch 1, sc in same st and next 3 sts, picot, [sc in next 4 sts or sps, picot] 116 times across bottom (you should end in the ch-1 sp at the corner) (468 sc, 117 picots)
  • Right front: Do not turn. Ch 1, sc in each st across to next ch-1 sp, sc in ch-1 sp. (55 sc)
  • Collar: Sc in each st around collar (65 sc)
  • Left front: Sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in each st across to last ch-1 sp, (sc, picot) in last ch-1 sp, join with sl st to first st of rnd, fasten off. (55 sc, 1 picot)
Picot edging


Attach buttons on the front left band, opposite the chain loops.

Weave in all ends.

Icing on the Cape - easy crochet wrap pattern on Stitches n Scraps

Rate this Easy Crochet Wrap!

I hope you enjoyed this easy crochet wrap pattern. A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

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  • Kathleen l Bishop

    Love the pattern and can’t wait to start. One question, row 2 you have csdc = chainless starting double crochet; I don’t understand why the chainless is there, I thought that was an alternative to original start chain but in row 2 its confusing me. Any help would be apprciated

    • Pia Thadani

      The traditional way of starting a new row of dc is to ch 3 and count that as a stitch. The csdc replaces that ch 3 and looks neater. If you don’t like that stitch, you can just go the ch 3 instead 🙂

  • Guadalupe Marcos MARTINEZ

    Gracias por compartir sus conocimientos, me encanto, espero poder hacerlo. Dios la bendiga

  • Santa Bartholomew

    I have been trying to crochet icing on the cape. I am admittedly new to crochet and this is my second big project but I do not understand how to decrease toward the neckline from the instructions given . Can you please help me?

    Thanks in advance

  • Connie Jestat

    I am making my second one of these and it is for a lady who is 5’10” tall. The one I made for myself is the perfect length. How long should I make it for a 5’10” tall woman? I really love this pattern. Any suggestions would really help. My gage is perfect. THANKS

    • Pia Thadani

      hmmm…the length is really a personal preference…I’m about 5’6″ and I like the length of this. Can you have her try yours and see what she thinks? Or you could take the difference in your heights and add that much…

      • Connie Jestat

        This is going to be a Christmas gift for a friend’s sister, so I do not have any way to measure it on her. Would adding additional rows work for this?

        • Pia Thadani

          Yes, you can definitely keep repeating to add extra rows. Just be sure to end after a WS (odd numbered) row, and then you’ll have to make adjustments in the edging. Your bottom edge will be considerably longer so you’ll have to add more stitches there, and then when working the button bands, add extra stitches below the buttons to cover the extra rows. Your collar edging should stay the same.

  • justkay62@gmail.com

    I know it says that the pattern will fit most sizes….but as a much larger lady, I find that most patterns don’t. Is there a way I can increase the size of the pattern please, to make the cape bigger? Thank you.

    • Pia Thadani

      You can definitely change the size by continuing to work the last row of the charcoal section until the size you want. But you may not need to, I am a size 3X and this fits me very well.

      I would suggest make it to where the pattern says, try it on, and then if you want to add more go ahead and add more. But if you do, you will need to adjust the stitch counts on the edging.

      The only other adjustment you might want to make is if you feel like the neck is too tight. You can chain 7 extra chains, and put 1 extra dc between each ch-1 sp on row 1 (including 1 extra on each end). But again, this will change the number of edging stitches you need around the collar

  • Myra

    Hi, I like the look of this and would like to make it for my mom. She wants armholes, can you tell me how to add them.

    • Pia Thadani

      Sure 🙂 Wherever you would like an armhole, make some chains and skip that same number of stitches (if you do this where there are increases, be sure to chain extra for the increases). Then on the next rnd, work into the chains as though they were stitches.

      • Cheryl

        May I use Caron Cakes or Mandalas to make this. I’m not sure about the weight of the yarn but the colors are beautiful. Thank you I love the pattern.

        • Pia Thadani

          Thanks, I’m glad you like it! Caron Cakes is worsted weight so that should be fine. Mandala is a DK weight (at least the regular Mandala is) so that would come out too small. Mandala Ombre and Mandala Tweed Stripes are both worsted though so you would be OK with those.

  • Gayla

    Thanks so much for the great pattern! I also am grateful for notes in comments for armholes and extending size and lenghth. I think I’m also going to try to put a hood on it. Any suggestions? Thanks again for sharing your art with us.

    • Pia Thadani

      Hoods can be done a lot of different ways. The simplest would be making a rectangle, folding it, and sewing across the back – but then you get a point at the top. I’d actually suggest finding a separate hood pattern that you like, and sewing it on 🙂

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