Cabled Crochet Tote Bag Pattern

Back to school or back to work, carry what you need in the Classic Cables Tote Bag! Columns of cables create a classic look that’s fabulous for fall. This cabled crochet tote bag pattern includes an optional lining and pocket for the strength to carry all your essentials.

Classic Cables Tote bag

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2022 Bag Along CAL

The Classic Cables Tote Bag is the fourth pattern in the 2022 Bag Along CAL. Crochet along through 6 different bag patterns, with multiple technique tutorials for each. See the main CAL post for the full schedule.

Stitches n Scraps 2022 Bag Along CAL - 6 patterns, great prizes, #BagAlongCal

Enter the Giveaway

With each new bag pattern, there will be a new giveaway as well! All the giveaway details and entry forms will be in the first post for each bag, which will also list all the materials needed for that bag. Here is the materials list and giveaway info for bag number 5.

The giveaway prizes for the CAL are all sponsored by WeCrochet. This fifth giveaway ends on October 28th, 2022 at 11:59pm, central time, so be sure to get your entries in!

Knit Picks Mighty Stitch Worsted

WeCrochet also provided all of the Knit Picks yarns for the bag designs. For this cabled crochet tote bag pattern, I chose Mighty Stitch Worsted. This blend of acrylic and superwash wool is strong and squishy, with a subtle sheen.

It comes in a wide palette of rich colors. When it comes to cables though, I’m a sucker for the traditional natural or off-white shades. The lighter tones really show off the cables. I chose color 26811 – Oyster for my bag.

Bag Along CAL Tutorials

For each bag in the crochet along, I will be posting 2 or more technique tutorials. Here are the 3 tutorials for bag 5:

See the main CAL post for the full schedule of patterns and tutorials.

Classic Cables Tote Bag

Project level Intermediate

Add this to your Ravelry queue


  • Yarn: 550 yds Knit Picks Mighty Stitch – 80% acrylic / 20% superwash wool, worsted weight yarn. Shown in color #26811 – Oyster.
  • Hook: US size H / 5mm hook or size needed to match gauge
  • Coton Lining Fabric (optional):
    • 1/2 yd if fabric width is at least 43″
    • 1 yd if fabric width is less than 43″
  • Notions:
    • Scissors
    • Yarn needle
    • 4 stitch markers
    • Basic sewing supplies for lining (optional)

Project Level

Intermediate: Crossed post stitch cables, working in the round, working around a circular handle.


14 inches x 14 inches, not including handles.


14 hdc x 10 rows = 4 inches.

Abbreviations used

(Pattern is written in US terms)
bpdc = back post double crochetch = chain
dc = double crochet
fpdc = front post double crochet
fptr = front post treble crochet
hdc = half double crochet
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)


Front/Back Panel (Make 2)

Video tutorial for this section coming soon!

Scroll down for charted version of this section.

Ch 51

Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (50 hdc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of first 6 sts, *bpdc around next st, hdc in next st, bpdc around each of next 2 sts, hdc in next st, bpdc around next st**, hdc in each of next 26 sts, repeat from * to **, hdc in each of last 6 sts.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of first 6 sts, *fpdc around next st, hdc in next st, sk next st, fptr around next st, working in front of st just made, fptr around skipped st, hdc in next st, fpdc around next st**, hdc in each of next 26 sts, repeat from * to **, hdc in each of last 6 sts.

Row 4: Repeat row 2

Rows 5-34: Repeat rows 3-4 an additional 16 times.

Row 35: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. Fasten off.

Front/Back Panel should measure 14 x14 inches

Front or back panel of cabled tote bag

Front/Back Panel Chart:

Front and Back Panel Chart
Click image to expand

Straps (Make 2)

Ch 6

Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (5 hdc)

Rows 2-74: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across.

Edging: Ch 1, turn, *2 sc in first st, sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st**, working in sides of rows sc in each row across, working in bottom of row 1 repeat from * to **, working in sides of rows, sc in each row across, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off.

Bottom / Side Strip

Ch 11

Place a stitch marker in the top of the stitch at each end of row 18 on each side.

Side 1

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (10 sc)

Rows 2-53: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. Fasten off.

Side 2

With RS facing and working into the bottom of row 1, join yarn with a sl st in first st.

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (10 sc)

Rows 2-53: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. Fasten off.

The section between the stitch markers is the bottom, the rest is the two sides.


Weave in all ends and wash and block all pieces before assembling.

Attach straps

With right sides up, place the right end of a strap behind the rightmost cable on either front/back panel, overlapping by about an inch. Sew the two pieces together all around the overlapping section and then make a few stitches in the middle for added strength.

Being careful not to twist, sew the left end of the same strap behind the leftmost cable on the same panel. If you want to do the optional edging later, then do not sew through the very tops of the stitches on the panel.

Repeat for 2nd strap, attaching it to the other panel.

Attach bottom/side strip

Line up the bottom edge of a front/back panel with one side edge of the bottom/side strip, between the stitch markers. The stitch markers should line up with the corners of the panel. Make sure the right sides of the panel and strip are facing the same direction.

Sew the two pieces together along this edge, between the stitch markers. (Video tutorial coming soon for invisible seam)

Sew the other panel to the opposite side of the bottom/side strip in the same way.

Sew the remaining side strip to the side edges of the panel using a mattress stitch and matching the rows as you go. The top edges of all pieces should match up.

Weave in any remaining ends.

Top Edging (optional):

Join yarn with sl st in any st on top edge. Sc in each st around, join with a sl st to first st. (72 sc)

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Box Bottom Lining (optional)

Video tutorial for this section coming soon!

Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise indicated.

Cut Fabric

Using the cutting diagram below as a guide, cut the following three fabric pieces. 

  • Front/Back Panel: 18” wide x 16.5” tall – cut 2.
  • Pocket: 7” wide x 14” tall – cut 1.
Cutting diagram for lining on 43" wide fabric. All 3 pieces fit side by side.
Cutting diagram for lining on 25" wide fabric. One of the panels and the pocket fit side by side, with the other panel on top.


Make pocket square

With right sides together, fold pocket in half widthwise to make a 7”x7” square. The folded edge is the top of the pocket square.

Sew the side edges together, and about 2 inches in on each side of the bottom, leaving about a 2-inch opening for turning the fabric.

seamed pocket with gap for turning

Push the pocket through the gap to turn it right side out.

Fold the edges of the gap in to match the seam, and press pocket flat.

You should now have a 6”x6” square with no wrong side.

Attach pocket to lining

Pin the pocket square into place on the right side of one of the front/back panels with the open gap at the bottom. The pocket should be 6 inches in from each side of the panel, and about 2.5 inches down from the top edge.

pocket placement diagram, showing pocket centered horizontally, and about 2.5 inches down from the top edge of the panel.

Pay attention that you have the panel aligned correctly. The longer edges are the top and bottom, and the shorter edges are the sides.

Topstitch around the sides and bottom of the pocket, making your seam as close to the edges as you comfortably can. To give the pocket more strength, sew a small triangle at each top corner.

Pocket sewn to lining with small triangles at both upper corners

Sew Front to Back

Place front and back panels with right sides together so that all edges line up.

Sew panels together along the side and bottom edges.

Press lining flat.

Boxed Corners

Cut the corners

With wrong side out, draw a 1” square at each bottom corner, measuring from the seams.

Measuring for boxed corners diagram - 1 inch in from seam line on both sides.

Be sure to measure from the seams, not from the edge of the fabric. Do not include any of the seam allowances in your measurement.

measuring for boxed corner picture showing ruler and marks on fabric.

Double-check your measurements and then cut the squares out of each corner. It is ok that you are cutting through the seams.

Sew the corner seam

Flatten the seams at one corner, then fold the cut edges so that the side and bottom seams match up. Pin or clip them together.

The corner of the lining should now form a triangle, with the point cut off and the seams running through the middle.

boxed corner seam diagram

Sew the ends together with a 1/2” seam allowance. Your corner seam should be about 3” long from end to end.

Repeat this seam with the other bottom corner.

Top hem:

Press side and bottom seams flat.

Fold top edge of lining over by 1/2 inch and clip in place, then sew/hem around the edge with a 3/8-inch seam allowance.

Sew lining to bag.

Insert lining into bag, with wrong sides together. The side seams of the lining should line up with the middle of the side strips on the bag.

Sew the lining to the bag around the top edge. I prefer to do this seam by hand rather than on a machine, so that there’s less risk of damaging the yarn.

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Classic Cables Tote bag - free pattern on Stitches n Scraps - With optional lining!

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A downloadable pdf of this pattern is available on Ravelry for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

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