These boxy-toe slippers are worked all in one piece, never needing to break the yarn until you’re finished (unless you want to incorporate more colors). The sole is worked first, with the rest of the slipper built up from there, which makes it easy to add a 2nd sole for extra padding if desired. These slippers can also be a great blank canvas for your creativity – make them your own by working different sections in different colors, adding a drawstring around the ankle, or adding your favorite embellishments!
The Non-Stop Slippers pattern is available in a total of 9 sizes, from infant all the way up to adult, so you can make a pair for everyone! This post contains the instructions for the child sizes (s, m, l). Follow these links for the adult sizes (s, m, l, xl), and the baby sizes (0-6 mo, 6-12 mo)
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Non-Stop Slippers – Child Sizes
Intermediate – front and back post stitches, decreases, and changing direction of work to create 3 dimensions.
Instructions are written for small, with changes for medium and large in ( ). Find the right size by measuring the length of the child’s foot or of a well fitting shoe, and choosing the size closest to that measurement. If you’re measuring their foot, be sure to add a little “wiggle room”. Sole should measure approximately 5.5 (6.5, 7.5) inches long and 2.5 (2.5, 3.25) inches wide at the widest point.
14 sc x 15 rows = 4″ square.
- ch = chain
- fsc = foundation single crochet
- sc = single crochet
- fphdc = front post half double crochet
- bphdc = back post half double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- fp sl st = front post slip stitch
- bp sl st = back post slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- Foundation Single Crochet (fsc) – by Moogly
- Single Crochet Decrease Stitch (sc2tog) – by Articles of A Domestic Goddess
- Invisible Single Crochet Decrease (sc2tog – alternate version) – by The Hooked Haberdasherer
- Front Post / Back Post slip stitches (fp sl st / bp sl st) – by me!
- Front/Back Post Half Double Crochet (fphdc / bphdc) – by Articles of a Domestic Goddess
- The sole is worked from heel to toe and is the same for both feet. For a basic slipper / slipper sock, follow instructions as written. This is a good option if you want more of a sock-like feel, or if you want to attach a sewn on, outer sole (like leather or suede soles you can buy at the store).
- For a thicker, cushier sole, make an extra pair of soles and sew the 2nd (outer) sole on at the end. With this option, you may need a 2nd skein of yarn for the larger sizes. This is a good option if you want to add a painted on, non-skid finish. You can add your chosen finish to the outer sole before sewing it on, so the inner sole stays soft and clean.
Row 1: Work 6 fsc, OR ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. [6 sc]
Row 2 [RS]: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st [8 sc]
Rows 4-7: Repeat row 2
Row 8: Repeat row 2 (2, 3) [8 (8, 10) sc]
Rows 9-16 (19, 21): Repeat row 2
Row 17 (20, 22): Ch 1, turn, sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog over last 2 sts. [6 (6, 8) sts]
Row 18-19 (21-22, 23-26): Repeat the last 2 rows one (one, two) more times. [4 sc]
Edging Rnd: Ch 1, do NOT turn. Working into sides of rows along edge of sole, work 17 (20, 24) sc evenly spaced to the bottom corner. Working along bottom of row 1, 3sc in first st, sc across to last st, 3 sc in last st. Working into sides of rows, work 17 (20, 24) sc evenly spaced to top corner. Working into last row, 3 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 3 sc in last st, join with sl st to first st of round. Do NOT fasten off. [52 (58, 66) sc]
If possible, place the child’s foot on the sole. The sole should be about the same size as the foot, and no part of the foot should be hanging over the edges. Adjust to a larger/smaller hook, or larger/smaller pattern size if needed before continuing.
Rnd 1 [WS]: Ch 1, turn, fphdc around each st around, join with sl st to first st. [52 (58, 66) sc]
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first st. Do NOT fasten off.
Row 1 [WS]: Turn, sk first st, sc in next 6 sts, fp sl st around each of next 2 sts, leaving remaining sts unworked. [6sc]
Row 2: Turn, skip sl sts, sc in each sc across, bp sl around each of next 2 unworked sts from sides.
Row 3: Turn, skip sl sts, sc in each sc across, fp sl st around each of next 2 unworked sts from sides.
Row 4: Turn, skip sl sts, 2sc in next sc, sc in each sc across to last sc, 2sc in last sc, bp sl st around each of next 2 unworked sts from sides. [8 sc]
Large size only – Rows 5-6: Repeat rows 3 & 4 once more [10 sc]
Rows 5-8 (5-10, 7-12): Repeat row 3, then repeat rows 2 & 3 one (two, two) times more, then repeat row 2 once more.
Row 9 (11, 13): Turn, skip sl sts, sc in each sc across, bp sl st around next unworked st from sides, do not fasten off.
Rnd 1 [RS]: Ch 1, turn, skip sl st, sc in each sc across instep, mark last st, sc in each unworked st from sides, join with sl st to first st. [36, (38, 44) sc]
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc to 2 sts before marker, sc2tog over next 2 sts, remove marker, sc in next 8 (10, 10) sts, join with sl st to first st. [34 (36, 42) sc]
Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 8 (10, 10) sts, mark last st worked, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc around to last 2 sts, sc2tog over last 2 sts, join with sl st to first st. [32 (34, 40) sc]
Rnd(s) 4-6 (6, 8): Repeat rnds 2 & 3 one (one, two) times more, then repeat rnd 2 once more. [26 (28, 30) sc]
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as bphdc), turn, fphdc around next st, [bphdc around next st, fphdc around next st] around, join with sl st to first st.
Rnds 2-3: Do NOT turn, ch 2 (counts as bphdc), fphdc around next fphdc, [bphdc around next bphdc, fphdc around next fphdc] around, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off.
Note: for a longer cuff, repeat last round to desired length.
- Weave in ends
- Add extra soles and/or non-skid finishes as desired (see sole options above)
- Add embellishments as desired.
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