Free Pattern – Criss cross apple sauce

The back and forth, crossed post stitches (cables) at the center of this square form a lattice like texture. There is a Jacob’s ladder / braid stitch in each corner, tucked under smaller chain spaces for a more criss-crossed look. The back of the square has a completely different, but also interesting texture, which looks a bit like layered shell stitches. The pattern is written with color changes, but works equally well in one color.

This is a more advanced pattern that uses a lot of different stitch techniques, but with the recommended tutorials by Moogly, they shouldn’t be too hard to learn. It could be a great learning tool for a more adventurous beginner or intermediate crocheter. This pattern was designed for the Moogly 2015 afghan CAL. If this is the first you’ve heard about it, go check it out! Also be sure to take a look at the block 12 post to see how Moogly’s version of this square turned out (spoiler, it’s gorgeous!). The squares are amazing and we’re only about halfway through, so there’s still plenty of time to catch up.

Big thanks to gtcmom (check out her square) and Tamara for both tech editing this pattern, and to Elke for translating it into Dutch:

Dit patroon is (door HET HAAKBEEST) in het Nederlands vertaald. Je vindt de Nederlandstalige versie mét fotos hier

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Criss Cross Applesauce

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Materials:

• Worsted weight yarn: 150 yds total
• Size I / 9 (5.5 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• 5 locking stitch markers or pieces of scrap yarn
• Yarn or tapestry needle

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Difficulty:

Experienced – Worked in the round, post / cable stitches crossing over each other in both directions, spike stitches, Jacob’s ladders / braided loops, working into back loops only.

Size:

12″ square.

Gauge:

First 4 rounds should measure 4″ square.

Abbreviations used:

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• fptr = front post treble
• spdc = spike double crochet
• sptr = spike treble
• sl st = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• sp(s) = space(s)
• sk = skip
• rnd = round
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side

Notes:

• Click on any pattern image to enlarge it.
• If working with multiple colors, fasten off each time you change colors – do not try to carry one color behind another.
• The pattern is provided in chart and written format – both are the same pattern.
• The magic circle technique is recommended, for a more solid center with no gap. If you prefer, you can chain 6 and join with a sl st to form a loop instead.

Recommended tutorials from Moogly:

• The Magic Circle
• Post Stitches
• Spike Stitches
• Braiding crochet loops
• Basic crochet cables
• Front loop only and back loop only

Center:

Rnd 1 (RS): Inside a magic circle, ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc, ch 10, (3 dc, ch 10) 3 times, pull circle closed, join with sl st to top of starting chain. (3 dc on each side, 4 corner ch 10 loops).

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (starting ch sp), turn, *sk next ch sp, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st,** ch 2, repeat from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last repeat, join with sl st in starting ch sp, changing colors if desired. (5 sc on each side, 4 corner ch sps)

Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dc in next st, *sk next 2 dc from round 1, fptr around the next dc from rnd 1, ch 1, working in front of the fptr just made, fptr around the 1st of the 2 dc you just skipped, sk 3 sts on Rnd 2 (behind the crossed post stitches), dc in next st on rnd 2**, (dc, ch 10, dc) in corner ch sp, dc in next sc, repeat from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last repeat, (dc, ch 10) in corner ch sp, join with sl st in first st. (4 dc and one cross on each side, 4 corner ch 10 loops).

Rnd 4: Ch 3 (starting ch sp), turn, *sk ch sp, 2 sc in next st, sc in each st and each ch 1 sp across to last st before corner, 2 sc in next st**, ch 2, repeat from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last repeat, sl st in starting ch sp, changing colors if desired. (9 sc on each side, 4 corner ch sps)

Square should now measure 4″

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, *dc in next st, sk 2 dc from rnd 3, fptr around next post st from rnd 3, ch 1, working behind the fptr just made, fptr around the first of the 2 dc you just skipped, sk 3 sc on rnd 4, dc in next sc from rnd 4, sk 1 post st and 1 dc from rnd 3, fptr around next dc on rnd 3 (should be the last st before the corner), ch 1, working behind the fptr just made, fptr around the post st you just skipped, sk 3 sc on rnd 4, dc in next sc,** (dc, ch 10, dc) in next ch sp, repeat from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last repeat, (dc, ch 10) in corner ch sp, join with sl st in first st. (5 dc and 2 crosses on each side, 4 corner ch 10 loops).

Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 4 (13 sc on each side, 4 corner ch sps)

Rnd 7: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, *dc in next st, sk 2 dc from rnd 5, fptr around next post st from rnd 5, ch 1, working in front of the fptr just made, fptr around the first of the 2 dc you just skipped, sk 3 sc on rnd 6, dc in next sc from rnd 6, sk 1 post st and 1 dc from rnd 5, fptr around next post st on rnd 5, ch 1, working in front of the fptr just made, fptr around the post st you just skipped, sk 3 sc on rnd 6, dc in next sc from rnd 6, sk 1 post st and 1 dc from rnd 5, fptr around next dc on rnd 5 (should be the last st before the corner), ch 1, working in front of the fptr just made, fptr around the post st you just skipped, sk 3 sc on rnd 6, dc in next sc,** (dc, ch 10, dc) in next ch sp, repeat 3 times more, ending at ** on last repeat, (dc, ch 10) in corner ch sp, join with sl st in first st. (6 dc and 3 crosses on each side, 4 corner ch 10 loops).

Rnd 8: Repeat rnd 4 (17 sc on each side, 4 corner ch sps)

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, *dc in next st, sk 2 dc from rnd 7, fptr around next post st from rnd 7, ch 1, working behind the fptr just made, fptr around the first of the 2 dc you just skipped, (sk 3 sc on rnd 8, dc in next sc from rnd 8, sk 1 post st and 1 dc from rnd 7, fptr around next post st on rnd 7, ch 1, working behind the fptr just made, fptr around the post st you just skipped) twice, sk 3 sc on rnd 8, dc in next sc from rnd 8, sk 1 post st and 1 dc from rnd 7, fptr around next dc on rnd 7 (should be the last st before the corner), ch 1, working behind the fptr just made, fptr around the post st you just skipped, sk 3 sc on rnd 8, dc in next sc,** (dc, ch 10, dc) in next ch sp, repeat from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last repeat, (dc, ch 10) in corner ch sp, join with sl st in first st. (7 dc and 4 crosses on each side, 4 corner ch 10 loops).

Rnd 10: Repeat rnd 4 (21 sc on each side, 4 corner ch sps). Secure working loop temporarily with a stitch marker.

Form corner ladders / braids: 

With RS facing, pick up the ch 10 loop from any corner of rnd 1 and twist it once.

Tuck this loop under the ch 2 space from Rnd 2.

Take the loop from the next rnd and, without twisting, pull it through the current loop.

Tuck this loop under the ch 2 sp from the next rnd

Continue in this manner, pulling each ch 10 loop through the one before it, without twisting, and then tucking it under the ch 2 sp from the following rnd

Secure last loop temporarily with a stitch marker if desired, and repeat for other three corners

Continuing lattice pattern: 

Rnd 11 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, *dc in next st, sk 2 dc from rnd 9, fptr around next post st from rnd 9, ch 1, working in front of the fptr just made, fptr around the first of the 2 dc you just skipped, (sk 3 sc on rnd 10, dc in next sc from rnd 10, sk 1 post st and 1 dc from rnd 9, fptr around next post st on rnd 9, ch 1, working in front of the fptr just made, fptr around the post st you just skipped) 3 times, sk 3 sc on rnd 10, dc in next sc from rnd 10, sk 1 post st and 1 dc from rnd 9, fptr around next dc on rnd 9 (should be the last st before the corner), ch 1, working in front of the fptr just made, fptr around the post st you just skipped, sk 3 sc on rnd 10, dc in next sc,** dc in next ch sp, ch 1, sl st in top of ladder/braid, ch 1, dc in same ch sp, repeat from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last repeat, dc in next ch sp, ch 1, sl st in top of ladder / braid, ch 1, join with sl st in first st. (8 dc and 5 crosses on each side, with 2 ch sps in each corner)

Rnd 12: Ch 4 (starting ch sp), turn, sk the 2 ch sps in the corner, *2 sc in next st, sc in each st and each ch 1 sp across to last st before corner, 2 sc in next st**, ch 3, repeat from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last repeat, sl st in starting ch sp. (25 sc on each side, 4 corner ch sps)

Border:

Note: When working the spike stitches in round 13, work over/around the ch 3 sps from rnd 12, so they get hidden inside the spike stitches.

Rnd 13: Turn, sl st in back loop only of first st, changing colors if desired, ch 1, *dc in back loop only of each st across to next corner, (spdc, sptr) in next ch 1 sp from round 11, ch 3, (sptr, spdc) in next ch 1 sp from round 11), repeat from * 3 more times, join with sl st in top of first st, changing colors if desired. (25 dc and  4 spike sts on each side, 4 corner ch sps).

Square should now measure 10 1/4″. If it’s a little big, skip rnd 14 and work rnd 15 twice instead. If it’s a little small, skip Rnd 15 and work Rnd 14 twice instead. The stitch counts will not change. 

Rnd 14: Turn, sl st in each st across to corner, sl st in corner sp, changing colors if desired. Ch 1, 2 hdc in same sp, *hdc in each st across to next corner**, (2 hdc, ch 3, 2 hdc) in next corner, repeat from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last repeat, (2 hdc, ch 3) in next corner, join with sl st to first st. (33 hdc on each side, 4 corner ch sps).

Rnd 15: Turn, sl st in each st across to corner, sl st in corner sp, changing colors if desired. Ch 1, 2 sc in same sp, *sc in each st across to next corner**, (2 sc, ch 2, 2sc) in next corner, repeat from * 3 times more, ending at ** on last repeat, (2 sc, ch 2) in next corner, join with sl st to first sc. (37 sc on each side, 4 corner ch sps).

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

I hope you enjoy the pattern! A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a small fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

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