With the Blueberry Hill shawl, we worked lover’s knots in a rectangle. This capelet uses the same basic stitch, but with added shaping. It’s just the right weight to warm bare shoulders on a breezy spring or summer evening, and can be worn with the opening in front, or over one shoulder. It works up quickly with the Red Heart Boutique Infinity and Twilight yarns. These soft, bulky yarns both have a little hint of metallic sparkle in them too.

Twilight Reverie - A free pattern on StitchesNScraps.com

 


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Twilight Reverie

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Materials:

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Difficulty:

Experienced – Solomon’s / Lovers knots with decreases, plus extending one row with foundation stitches.

Size:

Adult – one size fits most

Gauge:

8 sc x 8 rows = 4″ in Twilight. Exact gauge is not critical for this project, but try to get fairly close.

Abbreviations used:

  • ch = chain
  • sc = single crochet
  • sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together
  • lk = lover’s knot (see Special Stitches)
  • elk = edge lover’s knot (see Special Stitches)
  • dec = lover’s knot decrease (see Special Stitches)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • RS = right side
  • WS = wrong side

Special Stitches:

Lover’s knot (lk): Pull working loop up to a length of 1.5 inches. YO, draw through but do not tighten – this makes an extended chain st. Sc in back bump of chain to secure. See full tutorial here.

Edge lover’s knot (elk): Work as for lk, but start by drawing the working loop up to 1 inch instead of 1.5 inches.

Lover’s knot Decrease (dec): Insert hook in next st and draw up a loop, sk next st, insert hook in next st and draw up a loop, yo and pull through both loops on hook.

Decrease - Twilight Reverie, a free crochet pattern on StitchesNScraps.com  Decrease - Twilight Reverie, a free crochet pattern on StitchesNScraps.com

Decrease - Twilight Reverie, a free crochet pattern on StitchesNScraps.com  Decrease - Twilight Reverie, a free crochet pattern on StitchesNScraps.com

Note: Whenever the pattern says to work into an lk or elk stitch, work into the sc part at the top of the stitch, just like you would into a normal sc, unless otherwise specified.

Recommended Resources:

Instructions:

Main Section:

Row 1 (foundation row): With Infinity, ch 2, sc in first ch, mark last st worked, 55 elk, mark last st worked.

Note: The stitch markers are used only to help identify the end of each row. Except for row 1 & rnd 11, every row in this section should end with an sc into the marked stitch. Remove the stitch marker as you complete each row, so you can use it again in the next row. Once the pattern is established, you may find you don’t need the markers anymore.

Row 2 (RS): Turn, 2 lk, sk first 3 sts from hook (the 2 just made, and 1 from the previous row), sc in next st, (2 lk, sk next st, sc in next st)  27 times.

Row 3: Turn, lk, sc in top of next st, mark last st worked, (2 lk, sk next st, sc in next st) 6 times, 2 lk, sk next st, dec, (2 lk, sk next st, sc in next st) 4 times, 2 lk, sk next st, dec, (2 lk, sk next st, sc in next st) 4 times, 2 lk, sk next st, dec, (2 lk, sk next st, sc in next st) 7 times.

Row 4: Turn, lk, sc in top of next st, mark last st worked, (2 lk, sk next st, sc in next st) 23 times.

Row 5: Turn, lk, sc in top of next st, mark last st worked, (2 lk, sk next st, sc in next st) 22 times.

Row 6: Turn, lk, sc in top of next st, mark last st worked, (2 lk, sk next st, sc in next st) 4 times, 2 lk, sk next st, dec, (2 lk, sk next st, sc in next st) 3 times, 2 lk, sk next st, dec, (2 lk, sk next st, sc in next st) 3 times, 2 lk, sk next st, dec, (2 lk, sk next st, sc in next st) 5 times.

Row 7: Turn, lk, sc in top of next st, mark last st worked, (2 lk, sk next st, sc in next st) 17 times.

Row 8: Turn, lk, sc in top of next st, mark last st worked, (2 lk, sk next st, sc in next st) 16 times.

Row 9: Turn, lk, sc in top of next st, mark last st worked, {(2 lk, sk next st, sc in next st) 2 times, 2 lk, sk next st, dec} 3 times, (2 lk, sk next st, sc in next st) 3 times.

Row 10: Turn, lk, sc in top of next st, mark last st worked, lk, elk, sk next st, sc in next st, (2 elk, sk next st, sc in next st) 9 times, elk, lk, sk next st, sc in next st.

Rnd 11 (edging rnd):

Note: When working around the chain parts of the lks / elks for the edging, several rows will have 2 lks right on top of each other (where you turned for a new row). For these rows, work over both lk’s together as though they were one. 

two lks together - Twilight Reverie, a free crochet pattern on StitchesNScraps.com

  • Turn, lk, sc in top of next st.
  • Side edge:  Turn, now working along side edge, ch 1, sc in same st, mark last st worked (corner), (3 sc around ch part of next st, sc in sc part of same st) 9 times, ending at bottom corner. (37 sc)
  • Bottom edge: Ch 1, sc in same st (corner),  2 sc around the ch part of next st, sc in the sc part of same st, (2 sc around chain part of next st, 2 sc around chain part of next st, sc in sc part of same st) 26 times, 2 sc around the chain part of next elk, sc in the sc part of the same st (corner). (137 sc)
  • Side edge: Ch 1, sc in same st (corner), (3 sc around ch part of next st, sc in sc part of same st) 9 times. (37 sc)
  • Top edge: Ch 1, sc in same st (corner),2 sc around the chain part of next st, sc in the sc part of the same st, (2 sc around chain part of next st, 2 sc around chain part of next st, sc in sc part of same st) 9 times, 2 sc around the chain part of next elk, sc in the sc part of the same st (same corner as start of rnd), ch 1, join to first sc (52 sc)
Collar:

Row 1: Turn, sl st in corner ch sp, changing to Twilight. Ch 1, sc in sp, sc in each st across to next st, sc in sp, work 8 fsc to extend the row (for button flap). (62 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, ch 1, sk next st (buttonhole), sc in each st across. (61 sts, 1 sp)

Border:
  • Top edge / button band: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across to buttonhole sp, sc in sp, (sc, ch 1, sc) in last st, sc in side of next row, working across bottom of fsc stitches, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next st, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog in next st and in first st from side edge.  (73 sts)
  • Side edge: sc in next st and each st across to next corner sp, sc in corner sp. (39 sc)
  • Bottom edge: Ch 1, sc in same sp and in each st across to next corner sp, sc in corner sp (139 sc)
  • Side edge: Ch 1, sc in same sp and in each st across, sc in side of collar rows, ch 1, join with sl st to first st of round. (40 sc)

Fasten off, weave in all ends, sew button to collar opposite button band.

 


I hope you enjoy the pattern! Special thanks to Red Heart Yarns for supplying the beautiful yarn, and to Abbie of Abbie’s Handmade Creations for testing the pattern!

A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store for a $1 fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

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Comments

Free Pattern – Twilight Reverie — 2 Comments

    • Yes, on row 1 it’s 55 elk – the reason you’re using the smaller edge lover’s knot stitches all the way across this row is because this edge row is meant to be straight, not zig zag like the later rows. One way to look at it is every stitch that should like straight, either horizontally or vertically, should be an edge stitch. Every stitch that should lie diagonally should be a normal stitch.

      I don’t have a video, but do have a tutorial linked in the recommended resources section 🙂

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