This sweet seahorse teether is a cuddly new friend for your baby, with a teething ring wrapped up in its tail. It’s made in Red Heart Baby Hugs yarn, with the soft texture and bright colors that babies love. Moms love that Baby Hugs is OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 Class I certified, which means it has been tested to be free from harmful levels of over 300 substances!

Seahorse Teether - a free pattern on StitchesNScraps.com

If you like this pattern, be sure to check out the matching Anemone security blanket – you can make both patterns with just one skein of medium and one skein of light!


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Seahorse Teether

4-medium 3-light_3L
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Materials:

 

Difficulty:

Intermediate – The stitches are easy but the shaping is more complicated. Most important thing is to keep track of the first stitch of each round.

Size:

About 8 inches long when complete, not counting teething ring. Size will vary depending on your gauge and finishing (how tightly you curl the tail, etc).

Gauge:

16 sc x 18 rows = 4 inches. Exact gauge is not critical. It’s best to use the smallest hook you are comfortable with for the medium yarn. Your stitches should be a bit tight, so the stuffing doesn’t come out.

Abbreviations used:

  • ch = chain
  • sc = single crochet
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • sc2tog = single crochet next 2 stitches together
  • hdc-dec = half double crochet decrease (see special stitches)
  • dc = double crochet
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • rnd = round
  • yo = yarn over
  • WS = wrong side
  • RS = right side

Recommended Resources:

Special Stitches:

  • Half Double Crochet Decrease (hdc-dec): Yo, insert hook into next st, yo and draw up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yo and pull through 2 loops on hook (2 loops on hook). Insert hook into next st, yo and draw up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yo and pull through all 3 loops.
  • Picot: Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook.

 

Notes:

  • Do NOT turn or join rounds unless specifically indicated – the entire body of the seahorse is worked in continuous rounds.
  • You may notice the shaping shifts by one stitch every 2 rounds. This is to make up for the natural shifting of the first stitch that you always get when working in continuous rounds. You can read more about how this works here.
  • I strongly recommend marking the first stitch of each round. You can use a regular stitch marker, but you may find it more helpful to use a piece of scrap yarn as a “running stitch marker” instead. This can help you keep count and make sure you’re not skipping stitches as well. The running stitch marker should spiral around to the right (or left, if you are left handed) as shown here. If it doesn’t, your stitch counts may be off.

 

Running stitch marker spiraling around tail - Seahorse Teether - a free pattern on StitchesNScraps.com

 

  • Stuff your seahorse lightly as you go. It should be plump, but not so stuffed that you can see the stuffing through the stitches. Do not try to stuff the whole thing at the end, you will have a very small hole to work with.

 Instructions:

Tail:

Note: Leave a long starting tail for sewing later.

Rnd 1 (RS): With Aloe, work 4 sc inside a magic circle (4 sts)

OR Alternate Rnd 1: With Aloe, ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (4 sts)

Rnd 2: (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) twice. (6 sts)

Rnds 3-4: Sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 3 sts.

Rnd 5-6: Hdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 2 sts

Rnds 7-8: Hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next st

Rnds 9-10: Hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts.

Rnds 11-12: Sc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 2 sts

Rnds 13-14: Sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next st

Rnd 15: Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts. (7 sts)

Rnd 16: Sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st (8 sts)

Rnds 17-18: Hdc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 3 sts.

Rnds 19-20: Hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 2 sts.

Rnds 21-22: Hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next st.

Rnds 23-24: Hdc in next 4 sts, sc in next 4 sts.

Rnds 25-26: Sc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts, sc in next 3 sts

Rnds 27-28: Sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, sc in next 2 sts

Rnds 29-30: Sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, sc in next st.

Body:

Rnd 31: (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) twice, sc in next 4 sts. (10 sts)

Rnd 32: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) twice, sc in next 6 sts. (12 sts)

Rnd 33: Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts. (14 sc)

Rnd 34: (Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) twice, sc in next 6 sts. (16 sts)

Rnd 35: Sc in next 4 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts) twice. (18 sts)

Rnd 36: (Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) twice, sc in next 6 sts. (20 sts)

Rnds 37-38: Sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 9 sts, sc in next 5 sts.

Rnds 39-40: Sc in each st around

Rnd 41: sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts. (18 sts)

Rnd 42: Sc in each st around

Rnd 43: Sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog, sc in next st. (16 sts)

Rnd 44: Sc in each st around

Rnd 45: Sc in next 9 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog. (14 sts)

Rnd 46: Sc in each st around

Neck:

Rnd 47: Sc2tog, hdc in next 9 sts, sc2tog, sc in next st. (12 sts)

Rnd 48: Sc in next st, hdc in next 9 sts, sc in next 2 sts.

Rnd 49: Sc in next st, sc2tog, hdc in next 7 sts, sc2tog. (10 sts)

Rnd 50: Sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 7 sts, sc in next st.

Rnds 51-52: Sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 5 sts, sc in next st.

Rnds 53-54: Sc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 5 sts.

Head:

Rnd 55: Hdc in next st, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) twice, sc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts. (12 sts).

Rnd 56: Hdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 4 sts. (14 sts)

Rnd 57: Hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 3 sts. (16 sts)

Rnd 58: Hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 9 sts, hdc in next 4 sts.

Rnds 59-60: Hdc in next 5 sts, sc in next 7 sts, hdc in next 4 sts.

Rnd 61: Hdc in next st, hdc-dec, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 7 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, hdc-dec (14 sts).

Rnd 62: Hdc in next st, hdc-dec, hdc in next st, sc in next 7 sts, hdc in next st, hdc-dec. (12 sts).

Rnd 63: Hdc in next st, hdc-dec, sc in next 7 sts, hdc-dec. (10 sts)

Rnd 64: Hdc in next st, hdc-dec, sc in next 5 sts, hdc-dec. (8 sts)

Rnd 65: Hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 5 sts.

Rnd 66: Sc in each st around.

Rnd 67: Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog (6 sts)

Rnd 68: Sc in each st around

Rnd 69: (Sc in next st, sc2tog) twice. (4 sts)

Rnd 70: Sc in each st around

Rnd 71: (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) twice. (6 sts)

Rnd 72: Sc in each st around

Rnd 73: Sc2tog 3 times, fasten off.

Fin:

Foundation chain: With Peachy, ch 46

Row 1: Turn, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, (picot, sc in next 3 chs) 10 times, sc in next 4 chs, leaving remaining chains unworked.

Row 2: Turn, skip first 2 sc, (ch 1, dc) 5 times in next sc, ch 1, skip next 2 sc, sl st in next sc.

Row 3: Turn, skip sl st, sc in first ch1 sp, (picot, sc in next dc, sc in next ch 1 sp) 5 times. Now continuing in unworked chains from foundation chain, sc in next ch, picot, (sc in next 3 chs, picot) twice, sc in next ch, sl st in last ch. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Finishing:
  • Finish stuffing, and weave in all ends on seahorse EXCEPT for the tail end. After weaving the ends in a bit as normal, I like to pull the needle through the entire piece and then trim the end off close to the fabric. It should get sucked back in and be hidden inside the stuffing.
  • With black yarn or thread, sew eye. Sew through both sides at the same time, and pull a little tightly so the eye sinks in a little. When you’re happy with it, sew in the ends.Note: I know these pictures have the fin on already, and you haven’t sewn that on yet – please ignore that. I had originally sewn the fin on first, but then decided it would have been better to do it later. 

 

Eye - Seahorse Teether - a free crochet pattern on StitchesNScraps.com

  • If you leave the neck as-is, the head will be able to move up and down a bit more. If you prefer a more secure / sharper crease in the neck as shown, you can use a scrap of Aloe to sew it in place. Just fold the head down against the neck, and sew them together at the crease.

 

Securing neck - Seahorse Teether - a free crochet pattern on StitchesNScraps.com

  • Sew fin into place using the ends. You may find it easier to pin or baste it into place first. To sew it on, I went through the base of the fin from front to back, then through the seahorse underneath, from back to front. I continued this down the whole length of the fin, then continued back up again to the top. Whatever method you use, you want to make sure it’s secure enough that little fingers can’t pull it off.

 

Sewing on fin - Seahorse Teether - a free crochet pattern on StitchesNScraps.com

  • Slide the teething ring onto the tail, curl the tail up, and sew it securely in place using the end.

 

Tail - Seahorse Teether - a free crochet pattern on StitchesNScraps.com

  • Sew in any remaining ends.

 


I hope you enjoy the pattern. Special thanks to Red Heart for providing the beautiful yarn, and to MixedKreations, dollyBambasDalColloLungo, wilmaelee, and asdlane for testing the pattern!

A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a $1 fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

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Comments

Free Pattern – Seahorse Teether — 10 Comments

  1. Do you know of another place other than Amazon that carries baby teething rings? Amazon is out of stock and they are not anticipating having them restocked.

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