Free Pattern – Poinsettia bottle cozy

Poinsettia Bottle CozyNeed a last minute gift or a hostess gift? Slip a nice bottle of wine into this lovely cozy, and you’re ready to go! While it was designed for wine bottles, the pattern includes instructions to make it somewhat wider, narrower, taller, or shorter as needed, so it can easily be adjusted to fit bubble bath, bath salts, olive oil, or other similarly shaped bottles!

This pattern involves some advanced techniques, particularly the colorwork. The border rows are done with alternating colors every stitch, and the main flower pattern is charted and done in the round. I have marked it as an experienced skill level pattern because of these techniques, but it could be a good challenge for an intermediate crocheter as well.


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Poinsettia Bottle Cozy

4-medium 04-experienced

Materials:

  • Worsted weight yarn
    • Cream – 100 yds
    • Red – 50 yds
    • Green – 25 yds
    • Yellow – small amount for center of flower, as desired.
  • US size H/8 (5.00 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
  • Yarn needle

Skill Level:

Experienced – Uses back post stitches, working in the round, and charted colorwork.

Size:

Approximately 3.25” (base diameter) x 10” (height)

Gauge:

Rounds 1-3 should measure 3” in diameter.

Abbreviations used:

  • RS = right side
  • WS = wrong side
  • ch = chain
  • sc = single crochet
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • bphdc = back post half double crochet
  • sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sk = skip

Notes:

  • For a narrower or wider bottle, try using a smaller or larger hook – for a very narrow bottle you may want to try a lighter weight yarn as well. The first three rounds of the pattern should give you a circle that is just slightly larger than the base of your bottle.
  • For a shorter bottle, you can skip some or all of the following rounds as needed. Be sure to skip entire sets of rows as grouped here (basically an even number of rounds on each end), or your right side / wrong side will be off.
    • Rnds 7, 8, 30, & 31 (the striped borders and one adjacent rnd on each side)
    • Rnds 9, 10, 28, & 29 (between borders and flowers)
    • Rnds 34 & 39 (one round below cord, one above)
    • Rnds 35 & 38 (another one round below cord and one above)
  • For a taller bottle, you can add rnds of sc in any of the plain cream areas – just be sure to add an even number of rnds on each side of the center.
  • For best results when changing colors, make the change in the last step of the previous stitch.
  • For rnds 5 – 31, if you find it easier, you can work back and forth in rows instead, and then sew the side seam up and sew the bottom on before starting rnd 32.
  • When working the charted section (Rnds 11 – 27):
    • Try not to carry one color of yarn behind another – use a different ball for each color section.
    • Technically, the odd numbered (right side) rows should be worked from right to left and even numbered (wrong side) rows should be worked from left to right. In this case though, it doesn’t matter – the pattern is symmetrical so it is the same going either way.
    • Remember to turn at the end of each row, otherwise the stitches will not line up properly.
    • Green squares have a dot in the center for those who have trouble distinguishing the colors.

Recommended Resources:

Base:

Leading ch 3 counts as dc throughout.

Rnd 1 (RS): Work 12 dc into a magic circle, pull circle closed and join with sl st to first dc, turn. (12 dc)
OR Alternate Rnd 1: Ch 4, 11 dc inside circle, join with sl st to top of ch 3, turn. (12 dc)

Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2dc in each st around, join with sl st to top of ch 3, turn. (24 dc)

Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) 11 times, dc in last st, join with sl st to top of ch 3, turn. (36 dc)

Rnd 4: (Ch3, sk next st, sl st in next st) 18 times, fasten off. (18 ch 3 loops)

Body:

Hold base so that RS is facing you. Join cream with sl st around post of any dc from Rnd 3, as though working a back post stitch (working yarn should be in the back) – see Fig 1.

Figure 1

Rnd 5 (RS): Ch 2 (counts as bphdc), bphdc around each st from Rnd 3, join with sl st (36 bphdc), turn.

Rnd 6: Ch 1, (sc2tog, sc in next 16 sts) twice, join with sl st, turn.(34 sts)

Rnd 7: With green, ch 3, switching to red in 3rd ch, (with red, dc in next st, switching to green, with green, dc in next st, switching to red) 16 times, with red, dc in next st, switching to green, with green, join to top of ch 3, switching to cream, turn.

Rnds 8-10: With cream, Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st, turn.

Rnds 11-27: Using colors as indicated on the chart (Fig 2), sc in each st, join with sl st at end of rnd, turn.

Poinsettia colorwork chart

Rnds 28-30: Repeat rnds 8-10, switching to green at the end of rnd 30.

Rnd 31: Repeat Rnd 7

Rnds 32 – 33: With cream, ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st, turn.

Rnd 34: Ch 3, sk next st, [(dc, ch1, dc) in next st, sk next 2 sts] 10 times, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next st, sk last st, join with sl st to top of ch 3, turn

Rnd 35: Sc in each st and ch sp around, join with sl st, turn (34 sc)

Rnds 36-37: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st, fasten off.

Finishing:

  • With yellow, embroider stamen as desired in the middle of each flower. The picture shown on page 1 was done using cross stitches with 2 strands of yellow held together. French knots are another good option. You can also sew or glue on small beads or buttons if you prefer.
  • Holding red and green together, chain 100 and fasten off. Weave drawstring in and out between V stitches on rnd 34, with the ends meeting around the first ch 3 on that rnd. Trim cord ends like a tassel or sew them in.
  • Sew in all ends

I hope you enjoy the pattern! An ad-free, downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store for a $1 fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

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