This lacy design is super easy and works up remarkably quickly too. Make it as a cowl or a scarf, or even a shawl! Any yarn at any gauge will do, and the pattern includes instructions to adjust width and length as desired. Have some scraps to use up? It’s great for that too. Make a warm, cushy, cloud like cowl or scarf for winter wear, or a light, breezy piece for the summer, just by changing up the yarns!
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- 110 – 120 yds worsted weight yarn (see notes under Size and Gauge)
- Size J (6 mm) hook (see notes under Size and Gauge)
- Yarn needle
- Stitch marker (optional)
Easy – all chains and single crochets, with a slip stitch seam at the end.
The instructions are for an adult (one size fits most) cowl, about 7.5 inches wide, and 12 inches long (24 inches before seaming). Notes are included specifying how to adjust the length and width to make any size desired. Changing the size will affect the yardage needed.
The sample was made gauge of 11 sts = 4″. Since the width and length can be adjusted, you can actually use any yarn at any gauge. Use whatever hook feels comfortable to you for the yarn you choose. Changing the gauge will affect the yardage needed.
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- fsc = foundation single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp(s) = space(s)
- Foundation Single Crochet (fsc) on Moogly
- How to Slip Stitch 2 Things Together by Fiber Flux
- Invisible Join vs Slip Stitch Join by Look at What I Made
Note: Starting with foundation stitches is recommended as it makes for a stretchier edge. However, if you’re just not comfortable with foundation stitches, an alternative starting row is provided.
Row 1 ( RS): Work 21 (multiple of 3) fsc (21 sts)
OR Ch 22 (multiple of 3 + 1), sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (21 sts)
Note: To adjust the width, work more or fewer stitches, in multiples of 3. If you’re starting with a chain instead of fsc, remember to add 1 extra for the turning chain. So for example, you could do 33 fsc, or start with 34 chains.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, (ch 3, sk 2 sts, sc in next st) across to last 2 sts, ch 2, sk next st, sc in last st.
Note: From this point forward, you may want to mark the first stitch of each row with a stitch marker or small loop of scrap yarn. It sometimes tends to get lost / be a little hard to find when it’s time to work back into it.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, sk first sp, (ch 3, sk next st, sc in next sp) across, ch 2, sc in last st.
Repeat row 3 until desired length is achieved, being sure to end after a WS (even numbered) row. For the sample shown, I stopped after row 60.
Note: For the sample shown, I used one self striping yarn and one solid yarn, and changed colors every 10 rows. Feel free to change colors as much as you like – this is a great way to use up smaller scraps of yarn. For a consistent width, make sure the yarns are all fairly similar in weight / gauge.
Last row: Ch 1, sc in first st, sc in first sp, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next sp) across, sc in last st. (21 sts – same count as row 1). Do not fasten off.
Seaming (optional – for cowl or infinity scarf):
Fold piece in half so that right sides are together and first and last rows match up.
Note: For a twisted / figure-8 look, twist the piece once before seaming.
Working through both ends, sl st (loosely!) in each st across. If your seam is coming out too tight, try working (sl st, ch 1) in each st instead. Do not fasten off.
If not seamed (for a scarf or shawl):
- Left edge: Turn work so that right side is facing. Working in sides of rows, sc in side of each row across.
- Bottom edge: Ch 1, working in bottom of row 1, sc in same corner and in each st across.
- Right edge: Ch 1, working in sides of rows, sc in same corner and in side of each row across.
- Top edge: Ch 1, working across last row, sc in same corner and in each st across, ch 1, join with sl st to first st. Fasten off.
If seamed (for a cowl or infinity scarf):
- First edge: Turn work so that right side is facing. Working in sides of rows, sc in side of each row around. Fasten off and join (see invisible join tutorial)
- Second edge: With right side facing, join yarn with sl st at the opposite end of the seam. Working in sides of rows, sc in side of each row around. Fasten off and join (see invisible join tutorial)
Weave in all ends.
A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store or on Ravelry, for a $1 fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.
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