You can’t possibly be blue wearing (or making) this pretty shawl! It’s light and airy when draped over bare shoulders and looks great with a shawl pin, or scrunch it up and use it as a scarf. The lacy, open, lover’s knots (Solomon’s knots) design works up quickly and uses very little yarn for such a big piece.

Blueberry Hill - A free pattern on


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Blueberry Hill


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Intermediate – Great introduction to Solomon’s / Lover’s knots.


My finished piece (as written here) came out to about 36 inches x 60 inches before blocking. Blocking is critical. The piece can increase dramatically in size just from blocking, and the finished size can vary depending on how aggressively you block it and how springy your yarn is. Mine came out to about 44 inches x 72 inches after only gentle blocking (it could have easily been stretched another foot or so in either direction if I had been more aggressive). The pattern can be adjusted to desired length by working more or fewer rows (you will end up with more or fewer edging stitches as well).


16 dc x 8 rows = 4″. Exact gauge is not important for this project.

Abbreviations used:

  • ch = chain
  • sc = single crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • lk = lover’s knot (see Special Stitches)
  • elk = edge lover’s knot (see Special Stitches)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • RS = right side
  • WS = wrong side

Special Stitches:

Lover’s knot (lk): Pull working loop up to a length of 1.5 inches. YO, draw through but do not tighten – this makes an extended chain st. Sc in back bump of chain to secure. See full tutorial here.

Edge lover’s knot (elk): Work as for lk, but start by drawing the working loop up to 1 inch instead of 1.5 inches.

Note:When the pattern says to work into an lk or elk stitch, work into the sc part at the top of the stitch, just like you would into a normal sc, unless otherwise specified.

Recommended Resources:


Main Section: 

Written Version – Scroll down to see charted version of this section – it is the same as the written version, so only work one or the other (not both).

Note: If you want a wider shawl, you can add more elks on Row 1, in groups of 2. If you do, be sure to mark the last st, and add the appropriate number of repeats in the following rows – each additional group of 2 elks is one additional repeat. 

Row 1 (foundation row): Ch 2, sc in first ch, mark last st worked, 30 elk, mark last st worked.

Note: The stitch markers are used only to help identify the end of each row. Except for row 1, every row should end with an sc into the marked stitch. Remove the stitch marker as you complete each row, so you can use it again in the next row. Once the pattern is established, you may find you don’t need the markers anymore.

Row 2 (RS): Turn, lk, sk first 3 sts from hook (the 1 just made, and 2 from the previous row), sc in next st, (2 lk, sk next st, sc in next st)  14 times.

Rows 3-58: Turn, 2 elk, mark last st worked, lk, sk first 4 sts from hook (the 3 just made, and the first st from the previous row), sc in next st, (2 lk, sk next st, sc in next st) 14 times.

Note: If you want a longer or shorter shawl, you can work fewer rows or add more rows, in groups of 2 (be sure to end on an even numbered row here, or the edging won’t work). 

Row 59: Turn, (2 elk, sk next st, sc in next st) across. Do not fasten off.

Charted Version – Chart is for main section only, does not include edging. This is the same as the written version, so only work one or the other (not both).

Chart for main section: Blueberry HIll - a free crochet pattern on

Click image to expand


Note: The top edge is straight, but the other 3 are scalloped. 

Short edge: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), turn, (dc, ch 1) 3 times in first st (corner), dc in same st, {sc in next st, (dc, ch 1) 6 times in next st, dc in same st} across to corner, sc in corner.

Long edge (top): Ch 3, {4 dc around the chain part of the next st (working into the space below the st), dc in the sc part of the the same st) across to last st, 4 dc around chain part of last st, ch 3, sc in sc part of the same st (corner).

Short edge: {(dc, ch 1) 6 times in next st, dc in same st, sc in next st} across.

Long edge (bottom): Ch 1, sc in same st, {(dc, ch 1) 6 times in next st, dc in same st, sc in next st} across to corner, (dc, ch 1) 4 times in corner, join with sl st to first st.

Fasten off, weave in all ends.



I hope you enjoy the pattern! Special thanks to Kyla Marie of Keep Me in Stitchez for testing the pattern!

A downloadable pdf of this pattern is also available in my Craftsy store for a $1 fee. The fee for the pdf format is to offset the advertising revenue lost when you print or download the pattern rather than viewing it online.

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Free Pattern – Blueberry Hill — 10 Comments

  1. Thank you for the pattern. I am not quite up to the stitching stage of this pattern, but it will defiantly will be a challenge for me. I hope I can contact you if I have problems I can’t solve. Bless you for sharing the chart that should make it a little easier. I do love a good challenge though, so again thank you very much. Susan

    • You’re welcome! I will definitely try to help if you have any questions 🙂 I think once you try it, you’ll get the hang of it pretty quickly – just don’t let it intimidate you, it’s nothing but chains and sc stitches!

  2. This is beautiful! I’ve been wanting to try this stitch. Do you have recommendations for the type of yarn (i.e., fiber content) that works best with this stitch? I have some 100% fingering alpaca and am wondering if that would work. thanks for posting the pattern!

    • Yes! the cool part of this pattern is you can make the main section work with almost any yarn, because you’re measuring the length of each stitch. I used a light worsted weight yarn. The only change you should need to make to use a fingering weight is to add a lot more stitches to the edging. Just add as many as you feel you need to make it lie nice and flat. For example, you may want to put two scallops in each stitch instead of just 1, or you may want to do a row of single crochets first, and then work your own scallop or other border design. Even if you just left it as a single crochet edging, it would be pretty.

      Watch out with Alpaca though – you might find it’s a big “grippy” and the stitches don’t open up as much as they did with this acrylic yarn. I suggest trying a small swatch first and see how it goes.

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